[drakelist] Looking for 7-line items
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi gang, I'm looking for the following: MS7 MN2700 (with or without B1000 balun) WH7 SL300, SL1000, SL1800 (additionally, a Sherwood Engineering 3KHz filter...if anyone has one...) 7077 mic CW75 keyer DL1000 dummy load Please respond off-list with condition and price. Thanks - 73 de Fred, N8YX -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] OA2 / OB2 failure modes
Chuck Grandgent [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'd noticed my OB2 in my R4A starting to flash or flicker bright orange, maybe a little reddish tint. First only at startup, then more and more. So I got a new OB2 and now have only a continuous orange glow from the base area, without any flickering. What precisely are the failure modes of these regulator tubes ? Chuck, K1OM -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OA2 / OB2 failure modes
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Chuck - Often this is a symptom of overload, usually a case of either the LOAD drawing LESS than design current, or the series resistor going down in value. Usually worse at startup, because B+ is high due to little or no load from other tubes. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Chuck Grandgent wrote: Chuck Grandgent [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'd noticed my OB2 in my R4A starting to flash or flicker bright orange, maybe a little reddish tint. First only at startup, then more and more. So I got a new OB2 and now have only a continuous orange glow from the base area, without any flickering. What precisely are the failure modes of these regulator tubes ? Chuck, K1OM -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OA2 / OB2 failure modes
Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Overload occurs after the entire cathode (inside of the cylinder) has been lit. At this point the tube is saturated and any additional current will cause the regulated voltage to significantly rise and thus overheat the tube shortening its life. But your tube had some flicker. Flicker is caused by small regions of negative resistance in the current vs voltage curve (pips)that develop over time. The discharge jumps from one region to the other on the cathode, hence the flicker. I have seen this before and there are two solutions. One, change the current through the tube to a different level (higher of lower) to get away from the negative resistance region. Be sure to stay within current ratings if you do this.. Two, just replace the tube as you did. Flicker causes noise in a receiver and can give an interesting light dance in a dark room. I had this occur in my TO Keyer. I have also seen the flicker accompanied by a bright localized discharge (just like you described); not to be confused with the localized dull orange region of a tube operating just above minimum current. I don't know what causes that but I'm guessing gas has intruded or been internally outgassed and that gas has contaminated the pure existing gas causing the ionization path to become concentrated (ie. bright). I experienced this in my R4B, and let me tell you, it was quite a light show. It scared me enough to abruptly kill the power thinking there was a tube that had developed an internal short. A new regulator tube fixed the problem. So these simple regulator tubes are not so simple after all when it comes to failure mechanisms. Dennis AE6C On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 2:58 PM, Chuck Grandgent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chuck Grandgent [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'd noticed my OB2 in my R4A starting to flash or flicker bright orange, maybe a little reddish tint. First only at startup, then more and more. So I got a new OB2 and now have only a continuous orange glow from the base area, without any flickering. What precisely are the failure modes of these regulator tubes ? Chuck, K1OM -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Dial Lights
Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- For those looking for replacement dial lights for the Drake 4 Line radios, try the Mode Electronics LED bayonet replacement series, available from most major electronic suppliers. There are several colors, but the drop-in white replacements are 55-110W. They are exact replacement size, have a frosted lense, and have a slightly cooler white color. Excellent alternatives to older stock incandesant bulbs and cost about $5.00 each. Dave VE6DRW -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Dial Lights
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- You don't want to use bulbs of that wattage in a piece of Drake gear!! **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15=aolhom000301) -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Dial Lights
Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- 55-110W is a part number (not the wattage). I found them online. They are 6V 20mA. About $9.00 each. I have not used them. I have the replacement blue LEDs from D.A. Buska Engineers LLC. They are very blue. 73, Bob WW3QB At 07:38 PM 3/29/2008, you wrote: Dave White [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- For those looking for replacement dial lights for the Drake 4 Line radios, try the Mode Electronics LED bayonet replacement series, available from most major electronic suppliers. There are several colors, but the drop-in white replacements are 55-110W. They are exact replacement size, have a frosted lense, and have a slightly cooler white color. Excellent alternatives to older stock incandesant bulbs and cost about $5.00 each. Dave VE6DRW -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
