Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
One of the guys I chat with fairly often on 75 meters, Morris Dillingham (KI4IUA), has installed X-Lock kits on a Heathkit transceiver and also a Swan 270B Cygnet and he reports they pretty much eliminated the VFO drift in both cases. He said the Swan's drift was about 3 Hz. Given what similar huff-puff kits cost, they appear to be an excellent value if you have need for one of them. At today's exchange rate, the cost for an X-Lock kit is $31.26. (http://www.xe.com/ucc/) Cumbria Designs: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/ 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:12 AM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: I bought my x-lock which arrived a few weeks ago. With input from Joe KC9LAD on the watch outs and rit interface resistor network, I built and installed my x-lock in one day. I did make a minor change of putting the headers for the plugs in sideways. Mounting on the bottom of the main TR7 board, that allowed me to keep the device plugs so that I can unplug if needed. This is a good kit, but not a Heathkit, so have at least some electronic knowledge before you start. Since I get only limited on the air time, I can only say that to date, I absolutely love the thing. As net control, I no long bump the dial as my TR7 coasts around. The price with British pounds to dollar conversion, shipping etc is about $40. Just my $.02 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 2/11/11, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote: From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, February 11, 2011, 9:43 AM I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it. With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if you want to make the radio back to original no one would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift. 73 Joe KC9LAD Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de/http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?
I live in a sea of electrical noise and need an antenna for the SPR-4 for AM broadcasts. I tried to duplicate the loop that was made for the SPR-4 using RG-6 and it simply did not work. The broadcasts were weaker than the noise. Even using the loop (with my HF antenna disconnected) the noise was stronger than the calibrator. So I need to locate antenna outside the noise, which means I need to use about 10 meters of coax. Due to availability and price, I've decided to use RG-6 coax. I can run an antenna at about 6 feet above ground level (in a valley) and a maxiumum of 11 meters long. What should I use? A dipole? An end fed wire? If I use an end-fed wire what do I ground? Should I make a 9:1 or other transformer? I have several sizes of Russian made ferrite rods with a permeability spec of 400. I only have #24 stranded plastic insulated and 1mm solid plastic insulated wire. Should I connect the coax to the antenna input or the loop input? The receiver is on the second floor. At the far end of the antenna is an HF vertical that goes to the first floor, and there is a ground rod there. If I do ground the coax or use a transformer, I can either run an extra 10 meters or so and put it near the ground rod (and other antenna), or put it closer and run a 10 meter 1mm solid wire to the ground rod. Thanks in advance for any advice. 73, Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Schematic R-4A
Can someone link to a schematic of the R-4A? Get your own web address. Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business. http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,Load control setting T4XB ?
Fred - The LOAD settings shown in the manual are only approximate, for a 50 ohm load. Easiest is to always tune the TUNE and LOAD controls for maximum output, and finally dip the Plate current with the TUNE. That should ALWAYS be the last adjustment. If you want to run a little less than maximum output, then reduce the LOAD control slightly (toward 0) and again, DIP the Plate current last. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com fjmel...@aol.com wrote: /Just a question./ / I have been using the load settings that show in the manual for the T4XB transmitter. It says the load control should be at 3.5 for 75 meters and 4.5 for 40 and most of the other bands. I noticed that when I reduce the load control the output increases. Any thoughts on this? Which do most of you use. Should we follow the manual or just look for max output? We tune the plate for max output which does correspond to the dip in plate current,so that seems fine./ // /Thanks 73 de Fred WD8ADG/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
For anyone thinking of purchase, be sure to check with your credit card about fees. Mine charged a flat $2 transaction (money exchange) fee. Others may charge more. 73 Ron WD8SBB --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net wrote: From: Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 11:41 AM One of the guys I chat with fairly often on 75 meters, Morris Dillingham (KI4IUA), has installed X-Lock kits on a Heathkit transceiver and also a Swan 270B Cygnet and he reports they pretty much eliminated the VFO drift in both cases. He said the Swan's drift was about 3 Hz. Given what similar huff-puff kits cost, they appear to be an excellent value if you have need for one of them. At today's exchange rate, the cost for an X-Lock kit is $31.26. ( http://www.xe.com/ucc/) Cumbria Designs: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/ 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:12 AM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: I bought my x-lock which arrived a few weeks ago. With input from Joe KC9LAD on the watch outs and rit interface resistor network, I built and installed my x-lock in one day. I did make a minor change of putting the headers for the plugs in sideways. Mounting on the bottom of the main TR7 board, that allowed me to keep the device plugs so that I can unplug if needed. This is a good kit, but not a Heathkit, so have at least some electronic knowledge before you start. Since I get only limited on the air time, I can only say that to date, I absolutely love the thing. As net control, I no long bump the dial as my TR7 coasts around. The price with British pounds to dollar conversion, shipping etc is about $40. Just my $.02 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 2/11/11, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote: From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, February 11, 2011, 9:43 AM I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it. With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if you want to make the radio back to original no one would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift. 73 Joe KC9LAD Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
At least we don't have that EU 20% Value Added Tax! Not yet anyway... 73, Tony K4KYO At 06:33 PM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: For anyone thinking of purchase, be sure to check with your credit card about fees. Mine charged a flat $2 transaction (money exchange) fee. Others may charge more. 73 Ron WD8SBB --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net wrote: From: Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 11:41 AM One of the guys I chat with fairly often on 75 meters, Morris Dillingham (KI4IUA), has installed X-Lock kits on a Heathkit transceiver and also a Swan 270B Cygnet and he reports they pretty much eliminated the VFO drift in both cases. He said the Swan's drift was about 3 Hz. Given what similar huff-puff kits cost, they appear to be an excellent value if you have need for one of them. At today's exchange rate, the cost for an X-Lock kit is $31.26. ( http://www.xe.com/ucc/) Cumbria Designs: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/ 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:12 AM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: I bought my x-lock which arrived a few weeks ago. With input from Joe KC9LAD on the watch outs and rit interface resistor network, I built and installed my x-lock in one day. I did make a minor change of putting the headers for the plugs in sideways. Mounting on the bottom of the main TR7 board, that allowed me to keep the device plugs so that I can unplug if needed. This is a good kit, but not a Heathkit, so have at least some electronic knowledge before you start. Since I get only limited on the air time, I can only say that to date, I absolutely love the thing. As net control, I no long bump the dial as my TR7 coasts around. The price with British pounds to dollar conversion, shipping etc is about $40. Just my $.02 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 2/11/11, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote: From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, February 11, 2011, 9:43 AM I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it. With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if you want to make the radio back to original no one would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift. 73 Joe KC9LAD Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de/http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelisthttp://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?
On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 21:56:12 +0200, geoffrey mendelson wrote: So I need to locate antenna outside the noise, which means I need to use about 10 meters of coax. Due to availability and price, I've decided to use RG-6 coax. I can run an antenna at about 6 feet above ground level (in a valley) and a maxiumum of 11 meters long. A favorite of SWLs is the PA0RDT mini-whip. An active capacitive probe type antenna, small and relatively easy to build, and can be mounted just about anywhere that's away from your noise with a coax run to the shack. No kits available, but Google will show you the construction articles. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] New to the list, some questions
Hello James, Thank you for the pointers! This sure helps. I did consider to do the upgrade kit for the AC-4R and I think its a fine kit, but I could do it cheaper and had some other ideas/wishes as well so I didn't go that route. 73's, Henry. On 2/12/2011 3:33 PM, james adriansen wrote: Henry, Below are two links to information about Drake sources for parts, materials, etc. The first one is a technical exchange document. The second site has a 3-part document from the Ham Convention about Drake equipment. Some of the info is the same in the two documents. These documents have information about the screws and other items you may need since you said that you purchased the rigs separately. The rebuild on the PS-4 is very doable. I purchased a rebuild kit. http://www.w4ish.net/Manuals/pdf/62-DRAKE_TECH_EXCHANGE02.pdf http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeHamvention/2010/Dayton2010-Menu.htm Good Luck and I hope this helps! 73 de James AJ4VP Falls Church, VA. USA ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Antenna jack on R-4A
What impedance is the antenna connection on the R-4A? How can I attach a long wire? Btw, the schematic is fine. Thx. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS B-1000 Balun by Drake
B- 1000 fits various Drake tuners. This one works. $60.00 shipped to your door USPS. Paypal please. Contact off list at n5...@yahoo.com Dennis ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
