[Drakelist] USB/LSB Indicator Lens

2011-02-18 Thread T Poe
Hello,



I need to replace one of the red USB/LSB indicator lenses on a TR-4C
faceplate.  Does anyone know of a source for these?



Thanks,



Wyatt – W4MUO
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[Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

2011-02-18 Thread
Power up, good receive on short 20' wire, s-3 steady, couple of jumps to s-5 on 
strong 20 meter signal.  S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7 meter on 
transmit test, two differet 7077, A-104 mics.(300 watt drake dummy attached to 
W7)  mid 3k range, all late boards, including aux7, NB, 2nd IF, only early is 
on the PA, small board, have a late series pa brick, and several assorted 
boards as spares. Before start-up, carefully pulled, de-oxit pins, and several 
re-seatings all topside boards, and hit the band switches also first with kroil 
and then with de-oxit, as start. VFO now very smooth and easy turning.  Cured 
the aux7 of 3 bands changing displays routine.  Frequency rock solid stable, 
except .9/0. can flicker back and forth on a very small spot...LOL

Since my gear is very limited, any suggestions as to board swaps as a testing 
bed would be welcome, Starting as to whether the pa brick might be a good 
start? Probably missing several, but can try the ones I have.  I'd rather spend 
a few hours on this then merely send it out somewheres,..at least maybe narrow 
it down some. Maybe get lucky!

Last night, heard a signal out of Japan and Europe, S3, Boston boomed in S5.  
S-3 barely audible on speaker, but my hearing pretty poor, earphones help a 
lot. on 20' of #12 house wire up a floor and across the ceiling a ways.

Meanwhile, will spend some time in the service manual, read it carefully 
through, and bookmark starting points.  Time to see if the heatkit testing rig 
Vxxx works, and look over that manual, also. Fluke 87, screwdriver, and 
extender board set on hand. Not in a hurry.

Good break in weather today, 40's.  One of the pigs jumped? over the 18 of 
fence above the 2 1/2 ft of hardpack, and went shoulder deep in 3' unpacked 
snow. Poor piggy didn't go far, backed up after less than 15' and climbed back 
into the pen, urged on by the other pig happily slurping down alone the 2nd 
pail of warm feed and some hot boiled potatoes.  They do like to 
eat...Yorkshires, 18 months now, getting pretty big.  Ever see the cartoon 
movie, Pigs is Pigs  Disney, I think...digressing

73'a
ken
AB1JZ

p.s. some might be interested in this: Egypt Influence Network, from Egypt 
tweetgrid postings on tb2k, pg 105? of the series ofnear continuous coverage.

http://www.kovasboguta.com/uploads/4/7/9/5/4795292/egyptinfluencenetwork.pdf  

This is high res version, and is a small indication of what monitoring and 
computers can do. My biggest surprise this is in the open...

_
Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

2011-02-18 Thread Ron
Ken,
Have you tried CW mode to see if it is related to the audio chain vs more or 
less just the RF chain?  

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Fri, 2/18/11, kendw...@netscape.com kendw...@netscape.com wrote:

 From: kendw...@netscape.com kendw...@netscape.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Friday, February 18, 2011, 4:56 PM
 Power up, good receive on short 20'
 wire, s-3 steady, couple of jumps to s-5 on strong 20 meter
 signal.  S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7
 meter on transmit test, two differet 7077, A-104 mics.(300
 watt drake dummy attached to W7)  mid 3k range, all
 late boards, including aux7, NB, 2nd IF, only early is on
 the PA, small board, have a late series pa brick, and
 several assorted boards as spares. Before start-up,
 carefully pulled, de-oxit pins, and several re-seatings all
 topside boards, and hit the band switches also first with
 kroil and then with de-oxit, as start. VFO now very smooth
 and easy turning.  Cured the aux7 of 3 bands changing
 displays routine.  Frequency rock solid stable, except
 .9/0. can flicker back and forth on a very small spot...LOL
 
 Since my gear is very limited, any suggestions as to board
 swaps as a testing bed would be welcome, Starting as to
 whether the pa brick might be a good start? Probably missing
 several, but can try the ones I have.  I'd rather spend
 a few hours on this then merely send it out somewheres,..at
 least maybe narrow it down some. Maybe get lucky!
 
 Last night, heard a signal out of Japan and Europe, S3,
 Boston boomed in S5.  S-3 barely audible on speaker,
 but my hearing pretty poor, earphones help a lot. on 20' of
 #12 house wire up a floor and across the ceiling a ways.
 
 Meanwhile, will spend some time in the service manual, read
 it carefully through, and bookmark starting points. 
 Time to see if the heatkit testing rig Vxxx works, and look
 over that manual, also. Fluke 87, screwdriver, and extender
 board set on hand. Not in a hurry.
 
 Good break in weather today, 40's.  One of the pigs
 jumped? over the 18 of fence above the 2 1/2 ft of
 hardpack, and went shoulder deep in 3' unpacked snow. Poor
 piggy didn't go far, backed up after less than 15' and
 climbed back into the pen, urged on by the other pig happily
 slurping down alone the 2nd pail of warm feed and some hot
 boiled potatoes.  They do like to eat...Yorkshires, 18
 months now, getting pretty big.  Ever see the cartoon
 movie, Pigs is Pigs  Disney, I think...digressing
 
 73'a
 ken
 AB1JZ
 
 p.s. some might be interested in this: Egypt Influence
 Network, from Egypt tweetgrid postings on tb2k, pg 105? of
 the series ofnear continuous coverage.
 
 http://www.kovasboguta.com/uploads/4/7/9/5/4795292/egyptinfluencenetwork.pdf 
 
 
 This is high res version, and is a small indication of what
 monitoring and computers can do. My biggest surprise this is
 in the open...
 
 _
 Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.
 
 ___
 Drakelist mailing list
 Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
 


  

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

2011-02-18 Thread Jim Shorney
On Fri, 18 Feb 2011 13:56:25 -0800, kendw...@netscape.com wrote:

S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7 meter on transmit test, two 
differet 7077, A-104 mics.

Any output in CW or AM?

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Fwd: First Jet Flight

2011-02-18 Thread Morrell Siegel
 can anyone identify the radio the ground crew is using? mickey wa6fiz

 http://videosift.com/video/Americas-First-Jet-Flight-October-1942
  
  

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[Drakelist] PTO/VFO

2011-02-18 Thread Neil M Califano
Is there any difference between a PTO and a VFO? The R-4 has a PTO and the R-4A 
a VFO per the specs.


  

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Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO

2011-02-18 Thread Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF

No.

On 18-Feb-11 23:03, Neil M Califano wrote:

Is there any difference between a PTO and a VFO? The R-4 has a PTO and the R-4A 
a VFO per the specs.




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--
Nigel A. Gunn,  1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA.  tel +1 937 
825 5032
Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF 9H3GN),  e-mail ni...@ngunn.net   www 
 http://www.ngunn.net
Member of  ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548,  Flying Pigs QRP Club 
International #385,
   Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691,  AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS,  ALC, 
GCARES, XWARN, EAA382.


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[Drakelist] R-4A VFO

2011-02-18 Thread Neil M Califano
Is stability the only advantage to the R-4A's semiconductor VFO? Is there any 
hum, like that from a freq. synthesizer, from solid state VFO?


  

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Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO

2011-02-18 Thread LeeCraner
A PTO is a type or style of VFO.  Drake uses them  interchangebly.
 
There is no synthesizer noise from the R4 series VFO/PFO's.  They're  solid 
state for stability.  (The FS-4 accessory synthesizer is another  story as 
to noise).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO

2011-02-18 Thread K9sqg
Typically, a PTO refers to a permeability tuned oscillator.  In other words, it 
tunes the inductor with a core that moves in and out of the coil.  A VFO 
typically refers to an oscillator that varies a capacitor to vary the 
frequency.  However, VFO is sometimes used to refer to a traditional VFO, a 
PTO, and even VCO.  





-Original Message-
From: Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net
To: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Feb 18, 2011 6:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO


No. 
 
On 18-Feb-11 23:03, Neil M Califano wrote: 
 Is there any difference between a PTO and a VFO? The R-4 has a PTO and the 
 R-4A a VFO per the specs. 
 
 
 
 
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 Drakelist mailing list 
 Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
 http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
 
 
-- Nigel A. Gunn,  1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA.  tel +1 937 
825 5032 
Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF 9H3GN),  e-mail ni...@ngunn.net   www 
 http://www.ngunn.net 
Member of  ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548,  Flying Pigs QRP Club 
International #385, 
   Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691,  AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS,  ALC, 
GCARES, XWARN, EAA382. 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO

2011-02-18 Thread Richard Knoppow


- Original Message - 
From: K9sqg k9...@aol.com

To: ni...@ngunn.net; cchange...@yahoo.com
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2011 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO


Typically, a PTO refers to a permeability tuned oscillator. 
In other words, it tunes the inductor with a core that moves 
in and out of the coil.  A VFO typically refers to an 
oscillator that varies a capacitor to vary the frequency. 
However, VFO is sometimes used to refer to a traditional 
VFO, a PTO, and even VCO.


   Collins also seems to use both terms although theirs 
_is_ a PTO. I've also seen other confusing terms used, I 
think Hallicrafters called theirs a LMO (Linear Master 
Oscillator) or something of the sort.
   The advantage of a permeability tuned oscillator is that 
its fairly easy to get a linear frequency scale by shaping 
the coil so that the inductance has a square-law relation to 
linear movment of the core. Its possible to shape the plates 
of a variable air capacitor to achieve the same thing but 
the plates become extreme in shape and are hard to make. 
Such straight-line-frequency capacitors were offered by 
Cardwell and Hammarlund, maybe also National, in the early 
1930's but I think they proved to cause more problems than 
they solved.
   There have also been oscillators with simultaneous 
variation of inductance and capacitance, mostly for VHF/UHF 
applications. This has the advantage of more linear dial 
calibration and probably also higher Q. General Radio used 
this in one or more of its instruments and I think had a 
patent on it.
   A problem with the PTO is that its difficult to get the 
coils to be exactly square-law so some means of correcting 
them is needed if the dial calibration is to be accurate 
without individual calibration. Collins used a corrector 
stack consisting of a series of thin washers clamped by a 
bolt. The washers could be slid to make a cam surface 
according to the correction needed. The surface was followed 
by a roller attached to a lever which could move the 
position of the nut driving the core just a little. the 
result was that the exact frequency could be adjusted 
continuously along the working length of the coil. Other 
manufacturers made similar arrangements that accomplished 
the same end without infringing on the Collins patent. I 
don't think Drake uses any such arrangement.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drkae TR7 X-lock installation information

2011-02-18 Thread Ron
It has been brought to my attention that wb4hfn's web site has an installation 
procedure for the x-lock.  It is by Marinos, sv9dru / ki4gin. 

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Sun, 2/13/11, Ron wd8...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] Drkae TR7 X-lock installation information
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Sunday, February 13, 2011, 7:47 AM
 I am getting a lot of off-list
 traffic on this subject ask for specific help.  I have
 several folks telling me I should create a web page for
 this. I have ask Joe KC9LAD if he would mind me doing that
 because, really it is his RIT interface add on circuit,
 not mine.  Joe is fine with it.  I/we will be working this
 as time permits over the next couple weeks.
 
 In the mean time, here is data I have. I hope it helps and
 also reduces my cut and paste off-list traffic.  Also
 it will be in the archive of this list for future
 reference.
 
 Assembly mods/changes:
 First thing to do is to take all connection plug headers
 and carefully bend the solder pins over 90 degrees at the
 plastic base.  Bend them so that the tab of the header
 will be down when installed.  This will allow you to solder
 the header on the PCB sideways. The pins will only go
 about half way through the PCB.  Since the PCB is plate
 through holes, this should be okay as long as you solder
 them from the top and then flip the PCB board over and
 flow each hole with solder from the bottom.  Since there
 is not a lot of pressure on plug headers they should be
 fine.  Without this mod, the headers and plugs are too
 tall to fit the board on the bottom of the main board.
 
 I followed the assemble instructions and it was a pain to
 solder the headers at the recommended time.  This is
 because I soldered from the top, which had components in the
 way.  So I believe that I would do the headers first,
 before any other components.  Then follow the instructions
 for the remainder of the kit.
 
 Based on Joe's comments, it would be best to change out the
 6 or so large electrolytic capacitors with titanium to
 reduce the height of the board.  I did not do this, but if
 I get around to it I will rework.  The board fits very
 tight due to height of the electrolytic caps.  I used
 several pieces of electric tape to insulate the bottom cover
 from the electrolytic caps of the board.  Not very
 professional IMO.
 
 You need to add a diode and 3 resistor interface for the
 RIT circuit.  This circuit was given to me by Joe KC9LAD in
 an e-mail.  This circuit allows the RIT and the X-lock
 control to logic AND their voltage as well as center the RIT
 voltage at start up.
 
 Installation:
 I took power from the bandpass/power supply board.  The
 one where the little variable resistors are, the ones that
 if you bump messes up your alignment.  With the rig upside
 down, PTO facing you, it's connector pins are to your far
 left.  There is an electrolytic capacitor (on mine any way)
 that is from the +12 volt to ground.  I forget the pin
 numbers, but it is in the service manual.  Note that
 this voltage pickup spot may be giving me problems. 
 When I cycle from TX to RX, I get a momentary unlock status
 on the X-lock LED indicator.  Joe suggested that he has
 seen something like this with voltage spikes that created
 noise.  Still need to research, but everything works
 fine as it is to date. 
 
 I picked up the PTO/RF and RIT from the same spots that the
 other huff-puff folks do. Carel PA0CMU had a very good site
 at:
 http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm   
 
 Look at the huff puff stabilizer pictures.  Second picture
 down has green circles around the points of interest. 
 PTO/RF in is the lower left circle.  RIT in is the lower
 center circle, and the wire lifted from that RIT line is the
 RIT out lower right circle.  He picked up power from the
 main board, I think regulated 10 volts circle to the right
 of the board.  You want to see my note on power pickup
 above as this might be a better location to pick up power. 
 Don't need the top circle because X-lock has it's own
 reference oscillator.  
 
 
 73,
 Ron WD8SBB
 
 
  
 
 Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peek at the forecast
 with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
 http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
 
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[Drakelist] Cracked MN2700 Reactive Range Switch Knobs

2011-02-18 Thread Richard A. (Tony) Stalls

Are you guys tired of my MN2700 saga yet?  I certainly am!

Anyway...

One of the little cylindrical push-on knobs on the two horizontal 
reactive range switches broke apart when I grasped it and I think the 
other one is cracked and not far from breaking.  Does anybody have 
any spares or know of a source?


Thanks!

Tony
K4KYO 




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