Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Jim Shorney 
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:55:16 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:

>I'll try my Weller WTCPN station on more after that remark, Dino!!  However, I 
>did try it on those can tabs in desperation, and even with an 800 degree tip, 
>NADA, hi.  Just too much good, copper heat sink. 

That's my home gear, a WTCPN! Try the iron in conjunction with the gun, I bet
it will work!

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

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will learn for a lifetime."

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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Jim Shorney 
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:48:23 -0500, mikefur...@att.net wrote:

>You might start out with a solder sucker and then sop most of the rest with a 
>solder wick which I have made from the braid of coax.

Soak the braid in rosin flux first, that helps.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Jim Shorney 
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 22:46:48 -0400, Dino Papas wrote:

>..the gun just wouldn't get hot enough to make a good solder joint.  

See my comment about re-snugging the tip connections :)


>For grins I fired up my Weller soldering station and popped one of the larger 
>size tips in, set it for 700 degrees and that smaller tip made quick work of 
>those connectionsI didn't think that thing had enough "umphh" but it sure 
>did.

My fixed-temp Weller with a 700 degree tip does pretty well on larger size
jobs. It's all about the thermal mass of the tip. I surprise poeple at work (as
I was surprised when I first saw it done) by soldering SMD chips - the QFP ones
with lots of teeny legs - with an ordinary chisel tip. The tips with the tiny
pointy ends that you would *think* would be best for such work just don't have
enough thermal mass to get the job done quickly and neatly. 

73

-Jim



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Charles Ring 
Since i don't have a solder sucker,  I first used solder wick with a 
Weller 100/140W gun to remove as much as possible, then I used  a Dremel 
to grind away enough of the tab to break it. I kept a shop vacuum hose 
in there to catch the filings. The solder wick step might not have been 
needed.


73 de W3NU



On 3/27/2011 10:48 PM, mikefur...@att.net wrote:
You might start out with a solder sucker and then sop most of the rest 
with a solder wick which I have made from the braid of coax.

73, Mike WA5POK
*From:* Don Rasmussen 
*Sent:* Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:22 PM
*To:* DrakeList@zerobeat.net 
*Subject:* [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps
Hello All,
I have a pair of R4C's and an R4B that will get new electrolytics. 
They are stock at present. First job is removing the old cans. All I 
have is a Weller gun at present100/140 for the removal. I have a 
standard iron for installation. If anyone can suggest the best way to 
remove this solder from the chassis and twist tab - a specific tool or 
method, the rest of the job should be managable at first glance.

Thanks in advance,
Don


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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Jim Shorney 

The thing I have learned about guns is that it's a good idea to re-snug the
connections (nuts or setscrews) at the tip before each use for best results.
Guns don't have a lot of thermal mass at the tip, so it also helps to use the
"two-handed" approach - supplement the heat from the gun tip with heat from a
secondary iron. If you set the chassis up at a strategic angle, you can
sometmes get the bulk of the solder to drip off in a direction that doesn't
cause trouble. Solder can also be trimmed down with a good, sharp knife -
something most people probably don't think of, but I've done it.

73

-Jim

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:37:03 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:

>Don,
>I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a 
>bit on the chassis.  I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I 
>treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi.  Others 
>recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as I didn't think 
>the huge iron would easily handle the antenna wiring.  It sure makes a lot 
>better connections on my wire antennas, and gets PL-259's hot enough quickly 
>to solder the shields.  The only advice I might offer using the smaller Weller 
>might be to "break" the old can off the tabs, making a little less heat 
>sink???  I'm not sure how that would work, but might be worth a try.  Good 
>luck!!
>73,
>Don, WB5HAK


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Cunningham 
I'll try my Weller WTCPN station on more after that remark, Dino!!  However, I 
did try it on those can tabs in desperation, and even with an 800 degree tip, 
NADA, hi.  Just too much good, copper heat sink.
73,
Don, WB5HAK___
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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread mikefurrey 
You might start out with a solder sucker and then sop most of the rest with a 
solder wick which I have made from the braid of coax.

73, Mike WA5POK

From: Don Rasmussen 
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 9:22 PM
To: DrakeList@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

  Hello All,

  I have a pair of R4C's and an R4B that will get new electrolytics. They 
are stock at present. First job is removing the old cans. All I have is a 
Weller gun at present100/140 for the removal. I have a standard iron for 
installation. If anyone can suggest the best way to remove this solder from the 
chassis and twist tab - a specific tool or method, the rest of the job should 
be managable at first glance. 

  Thanks in advance,
  Don





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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Dino Papas 
"Don's" - I was surprised recently as well when using my Weller 100/140 gun to 
reattach the power switch leads on my L-4Bthe gun just wouldn't get hot 
enough to make a good solder joint.  For grins I fired up my Weller soldering 
station and popped one of the larger size tips in, set it for 700 degrees and 
that smaller tip made quick work of those connectionsI didn't think that 
thing had enough "umphh" but it sure did.

Moral of the story...don't underestimate your bench soldering station for 
generating sufficient heat to make those larger connectionsI think that tip 
would do just fine under a Drake chassis for refitting caps.  BTW, I bought up 
a whole set of Hayseed kits for all the Drake gear laying around herenow 
all I have to do is find time to get them onto the bench for their surgery!

Dino KL0S

On Mar272011, at 2237 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

> Don,
> I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a 
> bit on the chassis.  I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I 
> treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi.  Others 
> recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as I didn't think 
> the huge iron would easily handle the antenna wiring.  It sure makes a lot 
> better connections on my wire antennas, and gets PL-259's hot enough quickly 
> to solder the shields.  The only advice I might offer using the smaller 
> Weller might be to "break" the old can off the tabs, making a little less 
> heat sink???  I'm not sure how that would work, but might be worth a try.  
> Good luck!!
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Cunningham 
Don,
I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a bit 
on the chassis.  I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I 
treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi.  Others 
recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as I didn't think the 
huge iron would easily handle the antenna wiring.  It sure makes a lot better 
connections on my wire antennas, and gets PL-259's hot enough quickly to solder 
the shields.  The only advice I might offer using the smaller Weller might be 
to "break" the old can off the tabs, making a little less heat sink???  I'm not 
sure how that would work, but might be worth a try.  Good luck!!
73,
Don, WB5HAK___
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[Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Rasmussen 
Hello All,
 
I have a pair of R4C's and an R4B that will get new electrolytics. They are 
stock at present. First job is removing the old cans. All I have is a Weller 
gun at present100/140 for the removal. I have a standard iron for installation. 
If anyone can suggest the best way to remove this solder from the chassis and 
twist tab - a specific tool or method, the rest of the job should be managable 
at first glance. 
 
Thanks in advance,
Don
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