Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4
- Original Message - From: "Steve Berg" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Loren, the best penetrating oil I have ever found is Kroil. You can generally get it at sporting goods stores, such as Midway USA. I have used it successfully for several tough problems with rusty bolts and nuts. Good luck on your project! Steve WA9JML I can't find Kroil locally. You can get it from the manufacturer on the web, I am not sure what the minimum amount is. I have a can of their Microil, a highly refined petrollium based oil suitable for instrument use. Kroil seems to be universally recommended as the best penetrating oil available. There are some others; I've had decent results from Liquid Wrench, you sometimes need to use many applications over a length of time, days or even a couple of weeks. Not sure of Kroil works any faster. There also used to be something called Marvel Mystery Oil which had a "reducing agent" in it (converts oxide back to metal) reportedly hydroquinone, also used as a photographic developer. I used to see Marvel at Pep-Boys but have not looked for it lately and don't know if its even still made. Beside applying penetrating oil try heating the rusted parts a bit, that may help the oil to penetrate. Also tapping on them can help because the vibration can help the oil to wick into the rusted area. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4
Loren, the best penetrating oil I have ever found is Kroil. You can generally get it at sporting goods stores, such as Midway USA. I have used it successfully for several tough problems with rusty bolts and nuts. Good luck on your project! Steve WA9JML On 8/3/2011 6:48 AM, Loren McCullough wrote: Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for. I know it was fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside while I was QRT. I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use. What is the best way to take it apart? All of the screws appear to be rusted and won't loosen. Loren - WA3WZR On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote: Loren I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's. I have had to work on mine a few times. I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit. Do you have specific questions? Rick Tucker W0RT - Original Message - From: "Loren McCullough" To: "drakelist" Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4. I haven't really looked at either piece yet. The control head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch has been sitting outside in the elements. Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s. Would like to get them both back in operational condition. Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3806 - Release Date: 08/02/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO Fixed - R4B
Lee - Thanks!! One more tidbit for the database... Bad solder has been a 'fairly' common problem, nothing like Kenwood, but... :-) I guess that's the price you pay for 'hand-crafted' electronics, (or 'wave-soldering'!) I suppose over a million solder joints, a few are gonna slip by. Thanks again. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Lee Zalaznik wrote: I have a Drake R4B that is having this problem with the frequency shifting, drift and the PTO will stop oscillating. This happened after I changed the dial lights. I have cleaned the Yoke and the bar that the Yoke rides on with no change. Also if I pushed on the end of the PTO it would stop the shifting frequency and become stable for a few days or a week sometimes. Today after looking at Ron's web site on fixing a PTO I just removed the PTO cover. I had to take out a tube 12AX7 to lift the cover off. After putting the 12AX7 back in, I turned on the radio and started to probe the PTO circuit board and the most sensitive place was the resistor on top, 6.8K ohm. This resistor is on the left side of the coil. As I probed the resistor the PTO would stop oscillating with a little more probing the PTO would start oscillating again. Next getting out the DVM and probing the resistor when the PTO stopped oscillating there were 10 volts on the ground side of the resistor. Looking closer it looked like the soldering of the resistor to ground was not complete. It had not flowed on to the ground pad. I also think this ground pad is one of the grounds for the coils silver mica capacitors. I heated up the ground side of the resistor and re flowed the solder and made a nice shiney solder joint that flowed on to the ground pad. I have heard no more frequency shift or drift or the PTO stop oscillating when i press on the PTO or wiggle the PTO assembly. I will do more testing and see if there are any more problems! Thanks again Lee KI6OY P.S. I read each and every post. And thank you to everyone for the PTO thread, it really helped. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4
Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for. I know it was fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside while I was QRT. I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use. What is the best way to take it apart? All of the screws appear to be rusted and won't loosen. Loren - WA3WZR On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote: Loren I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's. I have had to work on mine a few times. I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit. Do you have specific questions? Rick Tucker W0RT - Original Message - From: "Loren McCullough" To: "drakelist" Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4. I haven't really looked at either piece yet. The control head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch has been sitting outside in the elements. Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s. Would like to get them both back in operational condition. Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3806 - Release Date: 08/02/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
