Re: [Drakelist] TR7 PIN diodes source

2011-11-22 Thread Ron
check with Bob W7AVK  

e-mail, you "fix" it ->  rolfb     accima.com    

As far as I know he has both the high and low powered diode and at a really 
good price.  I got some from him recently.  He also has (had) the TR7 service 
extender boards too.  Both something you need to keep the TR7 going when they 
act up.  I have no interest in Bob's work other than a satisfied  customer of 
all the above mentioned pieces parts.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Tue, 11/22/11, scpmil...@aol.com  wrote:

From: scpmil...@aol.com 
Subject: [Drakelist] TR7 PIN diodes source
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Tuesday, November 22, 2011, 12:33 AM



 

It's looking like I may have TR switch problems (diode has the same 
resistance either direction.  This is the high power PIN diode in the TR 
switch.  Does anyone know of a current source for the UM 9400 (or MA4P1200) 
PIN diodes in the TR Switch?  Are there any substitutes for these 
diodes?  Many years ago I got some from Down East Microwave but they don't 
show them anymore.
 
Thanks
Steve KD2ED
-Inline Attachment Follows-

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Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking

2011-11-22 Thread Curt Nixon
That is most likely the pin going past the stop.  When the spring-loaded 
plunger for the stop gets gunked up from old grease, it doesn't engage 
with the pin to STOP roatation at the ends.


If the stop IS working properly, the plunger -gear alignment may be off 
slightly allowing the plunger to start advancing a little too early so 
it nicks the pin one turn before the full stop.


To understand this, you probably need to watch the stop in action.

Should be no clicking at 0 and 500.

FWIW
Curt
KU8L

On 11/22/2011 12:55 AM, Neil M Califano wrote:

What is the clicking sound I hear when the R4A PTO is tuned past the 0 and 500 
Khz? Is this a mechanical warning not to tune so close to the edge of travel?

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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 PIN diodes source

2011-11-22 Thread Randall M. Payne
I too can vouch for Bob W7AVK as a source for the diodes.  Very prompt 
and responsive to questions.

Randy K4EZM


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Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking

2011-11-22 Thread Garey Barrell
There is a spring-loaded pin protruding from the front wall of the gearbox.  This pin extends into a 
dimple in one of the gears at the ends of rotation, allowing a larger diameter of the pin to block 
an extended roll pin in the shaft.  It normally doesn't 'click'.


Probably dried out grease is causing it to 'pop' out rather than ride the sloping sides of the 
'dimple'.  The only danger is that if the pin stays 'in' long enough for the roll pin to get past it 
and THEN it pops out, your tuning will be trapped between the mechanical stop and the point where 
the follower either jams up against the front wall of the gearbox, or falls off the back of the 
threaded drive screw.  You should be able to tune 10 kHz or so past each 'end' before the pin engages.


It's difficult to see in the radio, but the pin extends from the right front side of the gearbox 
(looking from the front of the radio).


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Neil M Califano wrote:

What is the clicking sound I hear when the R4A PTO is tuned past the 0 and 500 
Khz? Is this a mechanical warning not to tune so close to the edge of travel?



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale

2011-11-22 Thread Steve Wedge
That was quick ;-)

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
>From: Christopher Kovacs 
>Sent: Nov 21, 2011 10:24 PM
>To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale
>
>Sold
>
>73,
>
>Chris
>
>On 11/21/2011 08:02 PM, Christopher Kovacs wrote:
>> I thought I would let the group in on this sale before I place the 
>> receiver on ebay.  I am looking for a good home for the Receiver.  I 
>> may be selling the T-4xc, power supply and speaker. Let me know if you 
>> want a package deal.
>>
>> For more information:
>>
>> http://www.w0anm.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=drake_r4-c_receiver_for_sale
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Chris
>>
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>
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Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking

2011-11-22 Thread Steve Wedge
Yes, be certain not to turn beyond where it says "STOP" under any conditions.  
You can wind up damaging things.

Curt's right: take the cover off and watch it as you turn the knob and the way 
that it works will be really obvious.

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
>From: Curt Nixon 
>Sent: Nov 22, 2011 6:49 AM
>To: barbara knoke 
>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking
>
>That is most likely the pin going past the stop.  When the spring-loaded 
>plunger for the stop gets gunked up from old grease, it doesn't engage 
>with the pin to STOP roatation at the ends.
>
>If the stop IS working properly, the plunger -gear alignment may be off 
>slightly allowing the plunger to start advancing a little too early so 
>it nicks the pin one turn before the full stop.
>
>To understand this, you probably need to watch the stop in action.
>
>Should be no clicking at 0 and 500.
>
>FWIW
>Curt
>KU8L
>
>On 11/22/2011 12:55 AM, Neil M Califano wrote:
>> What is the clicking sound I hear when the R4A PTO is tuned past the 0 and 
>> 500 Khz? Is this a mechanical warning not to tune so close to the edge of 
>> travel?
>>
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Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking

2011-11-22 Thread Curt
Gunky grease can hold the spring plunger all the way retracted (never 
engages the stop)  or half out (clicks as the pin goes past it).  As 
Garey indicated, it needs to be free to move into the depression in the 
face of the gear.


If anything, I use a small amount of dry lube...no grease.

Curt

On 11/22/2011 11:10 AM, Steve Wedge wrote:

Yes, be certain not to turn beyond where it says "STOP" under any conditions.  
You can wind up damaging things.

Curt's right: take the cover off and watch it as you turn the knob and the way 
that it works will be really obvious.

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-

From: Curt Nixon
Sent: Nov 22, 2011 6:49 AM
To: barbara knoke
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] PTO clicking

That is most likely the pin going past the stop.  When the spring-loaded
plunger for the stop gets gunked up from old grease, it doesn't engage
with the pin to STOP roatation at the ends.

If the stop IS working properly, the plunger -gear alignment may be off
slightly allowing the plunger to start advancing a little too early so
it nicks the pin one turn before the full stop.

To understand this, you probably need to watch the stop in action.

Should be no clicking at 0 and 500.

FWIW
Curt
KU8L

On 11/22/2011 12:55 AM, Neil M Califano wrote:

What is the clicking sound I hear when the R4A PTO is tuned past the 0 and 500 
Khz? Is this a mechanical warning not to tune so close to the edge of travel?

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[Drakelist] WTB T4XB 40M Crystal (18.1 MHz)

2011-11-22 Thread Pete Juliano
I am missing a 40M crystal for my T4XB. Any one have a spare crystal for sale. 
My Zip is 98368. 

I have a 30M Crystal (21.1 MHz) and would also consider a swap.

Thanks,
Pete N6QW___
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale

2011-11-22 Thread john

At 10:59 AM 11/22/2011, Steve Wedge wrote:

That was quick ;-)



A very nice radio at a very fair price...it's going to sell :-)

John 



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Re: [Drakelist] WTB T4XB 40M Crystal (18.1 MHz)

2011-11-22 Thread Robert Fish

I have one, Pete. Are you good on QRZ.com?

Bob  K6GGO

I am missing a 40M crystal for my T4XB. Any one have a spare crystal 
for sale. My Zip is 98368.

I have a 30M Crystal (21.1 MHz) and would also consider a swap.
Thanks,
Pete N6QW


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[Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.

2011-11-22 Thread Steve Wedge
He warned me when I bought it - I'd never seen the inside and made the classic 
"Renovation Realities" statement: "How hard can it be?"

I bought a cosmetically beautiful SPR-4.  The outside and chassis on this thing 
are 9.7/10.

The ugly secret: the AGC board was removed, repaired and now needs to go back 
in.  I am not lying in saying there are about 25 wires that will have to be 
re-soldered onto this board.  Apparently, this was one of the last 
point-to-point wired radios and there's darn good reason why they started using 
connectors!

The majority of these wires appear to be 26 AWG and look identical.  I have a 
schematic but from what I see, Drake didn't see fit to call out the wires to 
the board or even identify where the board is!

I'm not out a super amount of money on this, but I would like to get it going 
again as sort of a long-term puzzle project.  Does anyone have more information 
on which components are mounted on this board?  It also appears that this board 
does NOT have a switch wafer and I'm told that it didn't - just a pass-through 
of the shaft for the MODE control.

I'd also like to find a power cord.  I see that you can power this off either 
AC or 12V (nominal) DC.  I can kludge some Amphenol pins to slip over the 12V 
ones if I must, but I'd love to have an AC cord.

How many crystals came with this?

Yes, Garey, I got the one you heard about on the net recently.  I figure I can 
putter around with it if I can only get more info on it.  I've never owned one 
of these before.

73, and I guess I'm now fully addicted...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of 
another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.
-Ayn Rand.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.
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Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.

2011-11-22 Thread LeeCraner
Steve,
 
Keep the faith.  In my opinion, you've better off restoring a rig with  
excellent cosmetics that needs electrical repair than the other way  around.  
You can never make a worn front panel or rusty chassis new  again.  With 
time, patience and some skill, you can always restore the  electronics.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW___
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Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.

2011-11-22 Thread Steve Wedge
Yep - I'm just going to need a "large-type edition" schematic 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of 
another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.
-Ayn Rand.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: leecra...@aol.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:40 PM
To: w1es1...@earthlink.net ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.


Steve,

Keep the faith.  In my opinion, you've better off restoring a rig with 
excellent cosmetics that needs electrical repair than the other way around.  
You can never make a worn front panel or rusty chassis new again.  With time, 
patience and some skill, you can always restore the electronics.

73
Lee WB6SSW<>___
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