Re: [drakelist] Meter
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I have a couple of extra meters: The meter face reads; (On LH side) Jewell Instruments 800 277-5955 JE10002 Model MS2T (On RH side) F.S.=500UADC 823354-580 The meter face cover measurements are: Height; 2.73 (Slightly less than 2 3/4) Width ; 3.14 Depth ; 0.46 at top and bottom All cover measurements were taken outside around rear (opening). One of the clear plastic meter covers was used to replace a cracked one on my WM-2. It matches perfectly but the meter zero screw does not line up. I removed the cover to zero the meter once, and have not had to touch it since. If your meter is a Jewel with the same numbers, there may be a match. Jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Any idea who that was?? 73, Garey - K4OAH Garey and group. Original item 10-20- 2007 on archives...Jim Shorneyemail address n/a said that he found a replacement metera series of emails...in response he gave his supplier to W1FMR There is an additional response from W1FMR, refer to the copy below, that said did work. This is two Jims. Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks Jim... The same size meters I found are 50ua and have the fatter black pointer and labeled Motorola MS24. Thanks for bringing this up and finding the e-site vendor. jim / W1FMR Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks Jim... The same size meters I found are 50ua and have the fatter black pointer and labeled Motorola MS24. Thanks for bringing this up and finding the e-site vendor. jim / W1FMR FWIW my W4 says meter is a Honeywell. Carl Hibbard WD8NHK **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Other - Swan
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Carl, What do you have ? I'm working on a Swan 500 I like collecting and hate to get rid of anything :-) jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, Cleaning out ...stuff... Who among the list is a Swan devotee who might like a small piece of memorabilia ? Am looking for a collector, not a seller. Carl WD8NHK **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] TR-3 refurbishing - Relay burnisher tool
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I found one of these tools on eBay to use on the relays in my Swan boatanchor. I used one at Western Electric many years ago and it was designed to burnish relay contacts. WECO used to use millions of relays. Western Electric 265C Burnisher Pocket Tool ( eBay #270184548836) 73 Jim --- Mark Pilant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mark Pilant [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Greetings all. I have managed to find some time to work on my TR-3 and have made a fair amount of progress. The first step was to clean off most of the grime, dust, etc. with Q-tips and (isopropyl) alcohol. Followed by DeoxIT on the various switch contacts, tube socket contacts, and T/R relay. BTW, I discovered the blue coloring on the blue filter can be removed with the alcohol. Fortunately, the bluing was on the white backing no the actual blue filter. Be careful. After that came doing all resistance checks. Anything more than 10% off the table in the manual I investigated. I found two very curious things. First, pin 7 (6AU6A - VFO cathode) is shown as 7 ohms in the table, but my meter (Fluke 875 with needle probes) showed it as open. The original manual I have (from a different owner) also shows this. I'm not sure if this is OK. I'm not sure I really want to pull the PTO to trace the circuit. Second, the first time through, the cathode and grid resistance measurements of several tubes were vastly different (in both directions: high and low). Looking into this further, the tubes all appeared to be in the receive chain. On a hunch, I played around a but with the T/R relay contacts while measuring the cathode resistance of V12 (IF amp). It would go from 105 ohms to 29.7K. What was curious was it wasn't up and down motion of the relay contact but side to side. So it looks like my T/R relay needs some serious attention. I can think of a several of things to try: 1) Clean it again with DeoxIT (by pulling soaked heavy paper through the contacts). 2) Use a burnisher or very fine grit (1000+) wet/dry sandpaper. (Like Mark Gilger's Relay Care Tech Tip on WB4FHN's site.) 3) Find a replacement relay. I'm not sure if this is possible. Since my TR-3 has an open frame T/R relay, it isn't too surprising it is dirty. I'm just not sure if I will be able to adequately clean the contacts. I'm preparing myself to have to remove the relay to really clean it. I'll also check the armature string tension as well. All comments and suggestions welcome. 73 - Mark N1VQW -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: OT Re: [drakelist] Velcro Insanity
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Rich.. Have you tried to remove the SuperLock fasteners afterwards ? Wonder if they are on for the life of the car ? Jim / W1FMR --- Richard Arland, W3OSS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Richard Arland, W3OSS [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Currently I am doing an install on my wife's 2007 Nissan Pathfinder. Plenty of room for gear but nothing to firmly anchor to. She specifies no holes. So I turn to my secret weapon, R-S Superlock Fasteners. I have used these industrial strength hook and eye fasteners for many installations. The R-S part number is 64-2360 Hi-Temp/Hi-Strength Superlock Fasteners. I have yet to have a piece of radio gear (control head, speaker, mic hanger, radio, etc) get loose and roll around. Don't forget to use some alcohol wipe pads to prep both surfaces and get rid of any Armorall, silicone spray, finger grease, act. This will insure that the hook and eye fasteners stay put no matter what the inside temp of the vehicle goes to. GL and have fun vy 73 Rich W3OSS | Subject: OT Re: [drakelist] Velcro Insanity | | Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang | -- | On Sat, 12 Jan 2008 01:20:13 -0500, wb4yqv wrote: | | Try Radio Shack... They have a clear version that will not turn loose... | | Thanks, I'll check that out if the Velcro brand stuff gives up completely. | | FWIW, I'm trying to attach a Kenwood control head to a vertical space on a | vinyl dash. The head is not heavy, the dash is not the smooth, flat surface | that these adhesives prefer. | -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Deoxit helps Jones connectors on a Swan 500cx,
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Results of my experiments: Tried 3 things to clean the battleship gray, tough as nails, oxidation from Jones plug pins that the 12VAC filament voltage could not even penetrate. 1. Craig Deoxit (RS - very expensive) and didn't work 2. Contact spray (RS) cleaner didn't work 3. MWW Brass Chrome metal polish worked. Got it from the supermarket. It is a gray paste that turns oxidation black when left on for a while and removes it in chunks with a Q-tip. The pins were so bad that I had to do it a couple of times then clean the residue with RS spray contact cleaner and Q-tips. It's much cheaper than buying and installing new 15 pin Jones connectors, if that mounting type are even available. Nice to see shiny metal coming through but don't know what to do about the plug receptacle. Does anyone have a cable mount 15 pin Jones receptacle for sale ? Without the shell is OK as I can use the old one. Regards, Jim / W1FMR --- Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 15:10:26 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote: I don't recall ever having one fail, but it's certainly a good idea to make sure that the heavy multiconductor power cable is not hanging from the connector. The one on my L4B failed quite spectacularly. One of those things you never forget. I'm still not sure why, but the working theory is that the connector body absorbed enough moisture to flash over at 220 volts. -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Deoxit helps Jones connectors on a Swan 500cx
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- H The relay contacts on this beast are black and only work some of the time :-) Thanks for the tip... jim --- Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I made the mistake many years ago of spraying lubricating tuner cleaner on the relays of a KWM-2, the result was fireworks. To clean Jones plugs I use alcohol or non lubricating contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Obviously no amount of cleaning will make up for weak contacts. 73, Gary W8PU http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Good advice Garey...And very well taken Happy New Year ! Jim / W1FMR --- Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jim - Loss of control bias in ANY transmitting tube is a problem. The problem here (as in so much electronic equipment) is that electrolytic capacitors have a finite lifetime. Unfortunately it's WIDELY variable, and just about impossible to predict which cap is going to last 50 years, and which will only last five years. Or less.! The capacitors that are causing most of these failures are all over 25 years old, well past even the most optimistic reliability expectations. Hams being hams, they will use them until they fail, rather than take any sort of preventative maintenance steps. Fusing is not quite that simple, since the short term peak currents associated with off-resonance operation during tuning can be pretty large. As with most fused circuits, it's a narrow line between blowing when you lose bias and blowing every time you're a little slow tuning up! Another problem is that the fuse may have to clear up to 700 VDC depending upon the condition of the tube. Bottom line is, keep your power supply in good condition (update ANY original AC-4 with an AC-4R upgrade kit) and make sure your Cinch connector is plugged in firmly and doesn't have to support the weight of the entire power cable. You're good for another 10-20-30 years, probably longer than you're gonna need the T-4X(any)!! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I see that tube bias is a big problem in these sets. Any chance of fusing the cathode resistors to would help stem the bias problem ? Do you think a couple of cathode wired-in-series fuses work ? Jim -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I see that tube bias is a big problem in these sets. Any chance of fusing the cathode resistors to would help stem the bias problem ? Do you think a couple of cathode wired-in-series fuses work ? Jim --- Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I did move the T4XB to plug/unplug my straight key so that is a possibility. Thanks for the tip and Gary I don't disagree that it was a bias problem. I'll get new resistors and we'll see. - Original Message - From: Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 12:08 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Did you move things around when you switched rigs? I found (the hard way) that it is possible for the cinch connector to get in an angle where the bias pin loses contact. 73, Bob WW3QB At 12:05 PM 1/1/2008, you wrote: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Power supply seems OK. Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 279 and 682. Both a little high but seem OK to me. Anything else I should check before I try replacing the cathode resistors? Gotta wait to order some anyway. - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Yep, that's it. It's adjustable to set the idle current for the finals. No bias voltage = full plate current! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Bill Carpenter wrote: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the electrolytics a few years ago. Which pin is the bias measured on? It looks like pin 9 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which is ground? - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Bill - Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics and/or rectifiers. There has been some discussion of this over the last few weeks on here. The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for AC-4's that still have their original electrolytics. You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened! Carbon comp resistors are pretty hard to find. Best replacement is the Ohmite OX ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and others. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Bill Carpenter wrote: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided to switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad powerline noise that has popped up here recently. I left the Bline on and was happily CWing away when the Bline kind of blinked so I turned it off. Later I found no output at all so suspecting finals I checked them and yes they were bad. I put good ones in and still no output. There had been no noise, smoke or burned sound so I had not looked under the finals. I did that this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 watt 15 Ohm) both burnt and testing very high or open. Obviously I need to replace these but is there anything else I should check first to see what may have caused this to happen? Any help appreciated. Happy New Year! 73 Bill NZ0T -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
Re: [drakelist] 2 For 1 Sale
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi, If you can sell the good one, I may be interested in the one with the bad meter. Jim / W1FMR --- BSugarberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: BSugarberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hello, I have the following for sale: Drake W-4 Wattmeter - Works good, looks good. Drake WV-4 Wattmeter - Meter needle stuck about 1/8 above zero, looks good. $95.00 for both + shipping. 73, Bruce WA8TNC -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake Radios may Keep You Warm, but they don't melt snow....
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Here, grab a shovel and I'll show you what snow is !! Have 2 feet of packed, frozen white stuff from the plow that is covered with a layer of ice in front of my car in the driveway. Beautiful New Hampshire ? Let's hear it for global warming. Heard some of the net tonight...but some awful 1 sec. pulsating static came on that eventually turned to 100% static so I did something else. Jim / W1FMR --- KBG Luxford [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: KBG Luxford [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Snow? Would somebody please tell me what snow is? 73 Kevin in Melbourne, Australia, where the worst winter is like an English summer. VK3DAP / ZL2DAP -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I would try to find some 'freeze spray' and hit various components with it to see which one brings it back to life. My guess is a cracked carbon resistor at the bandswitch. jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Almost sounds like a heat/pressure related problem with respect to the LSB filter.? Perhaps trying USB will add more data? -Original Message- From: Carey Lockhart, kc5gtt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 6:43 pm Subject: [drakelist] T-4XB PROBLEM i have a t4-xb that is giving me a problem. the audio is very narrow. no matter which mic i use it is very pinched up. once it warms up lsb quits. i can tweak the band switch bracket and it will start transmitting again. any sugestions? ? carey More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp000503 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] WTB knobs for Drake 2B
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Lucky you Evan Happy Thanksgiving to you also... --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim, Thanks for the email, located a couple of knobs and more are always needed.? Have to work some other issues right now. Happy Thanksgiving. 73, Evan -Original Message- From: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 2:27 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] WTB knobs for Drake 2B Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- G ood luck Evan, I'm in the same boat. My 2B knob rings were completely rusted so improvised by gluing on some (British) chrome wshersUntil replacements are found http://www.geocities.com/j_fitton/trswitch/MVC-004E.JPG Original knob is on right. 2C receiver and Q-mult uses the same knobs. jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang-- I'm trying to help a friend out restoring his Drake 2B receiver. Pretty much done but he needs some knobs (mainly some of the smaller ones, with and without the pointer) to finish off the project and have his receiver in tip top condition. If you can help, I'd appreciate hearing from you.73,Evan ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com --Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in bodyHopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of messageZerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net-- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] WTB knobs for Drake 2B
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- G ood luck Evan, I'm in the same boat. My 2B knob rings were completely rusted so improvised by gluing on some (British) chrome wshersUntil replacements are found http://www.geocities.com/j_fitton/trswitch/MVC-004E.JPG Original knob is on right. 2C receiver and Q-mult uses the same knobs. jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang-- I'm trying to help a friend out restoring his Drake 2B receiver. Pretty much done but he needs some knobs (mainly some of the smaller ones, with and without the pointer) to finish off the project and have his receiver in tip top condition. If you can help, I'd appreciate hearing from you.73,Evan ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com --Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in bodyHopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of messageZerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net-- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Keying Circuit
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Nice Mike, That sure is a tiny little gadget. The Hallicrafters HT-40 that I'm playing with (40W. out, xtal control, AM and CW) has from 65 to 93 volts at the key terminals depending upon which mode is selected. It can provide quite a jolt, or worse :-) 72/73 jim / W1FMR --- Mike Bryce [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mike Bryce [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- not to toot my own horn... but this is exactly what you need! http://www.theheathkitshop.com/universalkeyingi.html It's optically coupled and has a high voltage mosfet output. you can wire it as a cathode keyed or grid blocked keyed output it's on a pcb about the size of a large postage stamp. Mike Mike, WB8VGE SunLight Energy Systems The Heathkit Shop http://www.theheathkitshop.com/ J e e p o|||o Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] 4 line blue filters
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Carey, You are doing great ! My PC has a delete button and I know how to use it :-) Back when I was a Novice, some old timers used to resent newcomers and it hurt a lot, as a young kid. I'm afraid some of them old timers might still be around. Don't worry, be happy. 73, jim --- Carey Lockhart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: well i am the one who started this thread. and sorry for that i am. and i did not ask where to get the materials. i asked for the call or the web address of the man who sells the filters that more resemble the originals. now i am two months new to drakes and drake collecting. i joined this list in search of knowledge and technical assistance. there are collectors here that have gone thru all of the googling searching trying and still rely on experience in the end. i simply asked them to share. apparently was wrong about the use of this list. i did not know what kind of material it was, what its name is, that it was sold my FILM LIGHTING COMPANIES. who would have guessed film = radio. i still didnt get the info i needed but now i have several sources for material to make my own if i so decide. so 73's Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.kc5gtt.com On Nov 7, 2007, at 6:32 PM, Ron Wagner wrote: Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Not a flame, but rather an observation. I agree to a point. At least look on the web before you ask here, but... the thing about Google and web information in general is that you can find all kinds of bad information on the net. And unless you follow this list and know the players you never know if what you read on a site is from someone who has a clue or not. As for the archive link on zerobeat, it works for me. Maybe it was the site was down when you looked. 73, Ron -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] WA9TGT Unique Radio Parts closing?
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Too Bad Jim, I am satisfied with his Drake 2-B receiver capacitors ordered from him and should order R-4B, TX-4B, and Power supply parts soon. Thanks jim --- Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I was just on WA9TGT's Unique Radio Parts web site at http://www.wa9tgt.com/ and notice that he has a message saying that effective on December 1, 2007 he is closing and will no longer be supplying replacement Drake parts. Does anyone know if someone else will take up where Donnie Garrett is leaving off? Thank you. Jim Pruitt -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Meter Repair...?
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- My 2-B receiver has a needle that wouldn't zero without a little help. I bought a package of Radio Shack 1/2 diam. ceramic magnets and glued one near the S-meter. Now, It's spot on. Try it until you find a replacement. jim / W1FMR --- EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good Day All, I wonder if anyone reading this has ever come up with a possible solution to what I have here in the matter of panel meters...? Specifically, I use an older Simpson brand 0-500 VDC meter to monitor the plate voltage of my 2x813 homebrewed linear amplifier (I employ multipliers to expand its scale to read 0-5000 VDC): to-day, while doing some trouble-shooting on the rig, there was a momentary internal short --- as a consequence of this, the meter needle now will NOT return to its zero peg, but rather, hangs-up at around the 2 KV point on the dial... When I activate the B+ on the power supply, the needle travels right back up to 2.5 KV, as it normally does, but again --- with the supply off --- the needle refuses to drop down past about 2 KV anymore. Is there any fix for this condition, or is a replacement meter in order...? If it's the latter(!), I need a 2-1/4 x 2-1/4 bakelite Simpson, 0-500 VDC unit...please check your junque boxes...! Thank-you... ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] 2B knobs fixed pics.
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Below, find two pictures of fixed Drake 2B knobs. The knobs had a ring of rust where the chrome was supposed to be. I found some chrome washers at a hardware store and superglued them on after first concentrating the rust with some stuff from Walmart. The pictures show a fixed next to an original knob (on Rt.). Purists may object, but I enjoy looking at the radio while waiting to find some nice knobs :-) http://www.geocities.com/j_fitton/trswitch/MVC-006E.JPG http://www.geocities.com/j_fitton/trswitch/MVC-004E.JPG jim / W1FMR -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Motorola saves a Drake (W-4)
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks Jim... The same size meters I found are 50ua and have the fatter black pointer and labeled Motorola MS24. Thanks for bringing this up and finding the e-site vendor. jim / W1FMR --- Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Sat, 20 Oct 2007 18:46:29 -0700 (PDT), Jim F. wrote: Do you know the current of the Drake meter ? The Jewell meters are 50 Ua. 200 uA full scale, according to online documentation. 73, -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C TR7/RV7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C, L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Motorola saves a Drake (W-4)
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I bought a Drake W-4 at a hamfest with a cracked clear cover. It has a Jewell meter. My Oak Hills Research QRP Wattmeter has the same size Jewell meter and the covers are interchangeable. At another hamfest I found a few Jewell meters which covers fit the W-4 except that the screw does not line up with the meter adjustment. I have to take the cover off to zero the meter. It never occurred to me to swap the guts... Hm.. Do you know the current of the Drake meter ? The Jewell meters are 50 Ua. Jim / W1FMR --- Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- It works! The guts transfered over perfectly! All the internal bosses, grooves, and holes are identical between the two meter movements. I added a 2K 10-turn trimpot across the meter terminals as a variable shunt and calibrated it to my AN/URM-43B, it's monitoring my APRS digi as I type this. FWIW, this meter has Honeywell - Made in U.S.A embossed on the back, the Drake has Jewel - Made in U.S.A. in the same spot with the same typeface. The front face of the Motorola meter has Honeywell Model MS24T printed on it, and what I believe to be Motorola part number 72D82352F01. The only downside that I can see is the pointer is a bit wider at the end than the original Drake, so you can't resolve the reading down to the picowatt The seller has another one listed right now on the e-place, if anyone needs a meter movement for a W4/WV4. Email me off-list and I'll give you his info. No affiliation, just a happy camper. 73 -Jim On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 23:03:22 -0500 (CDT), Jim Shorney wrote: I received the Motorola 20uA panel meter today that I purchased through that e-place. It's an almost exact physical match to the meter movement in the WV-4! It appears to have been made by the same vendor. The differences: Black pointer instead of red 20uA, vs. 200 uA (easily dealt with using Ohm's Law...) Gray highlighting instead of black on the plastic front cover Four-point mounting instead of three - the Drake movement has four empty holes in the case where the mounting bolts are in the Motorola, and the Motorola has mold marks where the three mounting bolts are in the Drake movement. The taut-band movement appears to be the same design, as do the case parts; the curvature of the front plastic cover is even identical to that of the Drake meter movement. I've already completely disassembled the bad Drake meter movement, and the guts should transfer over easily from the Motorola. Looks like it will work fine. The seller says that he has more of these, if anyone else needs a replacement meter movement for a W-4/WV-4. 73 -Jim -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Tuning Knobs
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thank you Garey, I tried to fix some rusty knobs and will post a picture. OK on the 2B schematic info. I guess I have an early one cuz it looks different than those on Ebay. 73 jim --- Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jim - I don't know of any source of those knobs outside of a donor unit. There aren't many of those, since the 2-A/Bs just keep working! There was only one schematic version of the 2-A, and three versions of the 2-B. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I need all 2B knobs if there is a source. I seem to have an early 2b by the looks of things. jim / W1FMR -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Tuning Knobs
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- It doesn't have a numbered scale around the main tuning knob, and no red printing between the frequency number rows on the glass dial, and no mirrored scale. At least this is what I think I see on the pictures on eBay. I could be all wet and may post a picture later. The radio is at a beach cottage and I'll be going there today. jim --- Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jim - How does it look different? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B C-Line Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thank you Garey, I tried to fix some rusty knobs and will post a picture. OK on the 2B schematic info. I guess I have an early one cuz it looks different than those on Ebay. 73 jim -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Tuning Knobs
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I need all 2B knobs if there is a source. I seem to have an early 2b by the looks of things. jim / W1FMR --- Don Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That's the same guy as reported by Garey. -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] J-38 KEY PARTS
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Gene, I saw your very nice B line, Think it was you, fairly tall good looking guy with a mustache? Located in the lower section of Deerfield, row 2 ?. I already have a B line :-) Not as nice as yours, but passable. I was going to ask you how much, but figured it was really expensive. jim --- Eugene Balinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Eugene Balinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang --- I saw a scruffy J-38 at a flea market this week for $10 on Friday that was marked up to $25 on Saturday :-) If you were at Deerfield, I think I saw the same key marked $35.00 later in the day.. : - ) Passed up a beautiful 2B RX on Friday, but it was gone on Saturday. You also missed my B-Line on Saturday... 73, Gene K1NR I think that sa - Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Head Phones - Audex?
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thank you Al, Good explanations, much appreciated, and I concur whole heartedly. I have the same problem with my L. ear and afraid the R. one is losing sensitivity with age. I avoid headphones as they seem to inject static or noise directly into my good (and treasured) ear. jim / W1FMR --- Al Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Al Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Terry, It's only $$$ ;-)I've been very happy with the digi. Surprised that there's no gan ctrl, just put it in go. It is programmable so they can set it up for your exact freq. loss curve. The old analog only had a tone switch that barely changed response. I think the analog cost abt $600 abt 15 yrs ago, the digi was abt $2k this Spring. There's a big markup on them, so they have sales frequently, and maybe can be talked down sometimes. But they give free lifetime support, can re-program to tailor response gain anytime. I was surprised they didn't try to sell me another for the left, real bad, ear, like they all tried 15 yrs ago when I really didn't need one in the rt ear. This time the Audibel/Starkey technician agreed that they couldn't do much for the left ear as far as making things more intelligible, so I stuck with the analog and don't wear it regularly anymore, just when we go out to be with a group, etc., or sometimes when watching TV. My left sprang a leak in the cochlea, I think as a result of a commercial air flight. Had surgery to repair, but it didn't work. It takes abt 120db to break it's threshold, and then it's just garbled. With the aid it just tells me there's something over to the left so I turn my head. It's a real pain not having any directional discrimination when one ear is practicly useless. I cup me good ear and turn in a circle when I hear somebody calling me from any distance. Hope my rambling is of some use to you. I've searched out that loop that Ron mentioned, it looks good to me, no uncomfortable pads, etc. 73, Al, W8UT New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info - Original Message - From: Terry Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 8:57 AM Subject: RE: [drakelist] Head Phones - Audex? Terry Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Al: You're the first person I've run in contact with who had both a digital and an analog hearing aid - I've been having problems for years, but it's gotten a lot worse lately. I've heard (no pun intended, heh-heh...) that the digital's are horribly expensive. I've been reluctant to get an analog as well, thinking I might be throwing money away. I can hear people in the next room fine, I just can't tell what they're saying... (grin) I think I'm going to have to delay getting that L7 again! Terry K7WLD -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al Parker Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 6:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [drakelist] Head Phones - Audex? Al Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Ron, I googled it, but couldn't figure out just what it is that you're using. Could you give me a model no. or something to help? I just got a new Audibel digital for my rt ear, it's great. My left ear went bad suddenly abt 15 yrs ago, I've had an analog in it, but it just tells me there's some noise over there I need to turn toward it to hear anyone speaking. Rt one got worse worse, if I was still working, not retired, I'd have gotten one for it 10 yrs ago. tnx, 73, Al, W8UT New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info - Original Message - From: ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] Head Phones ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang If wear hearing aids like I do, use a product called Audex. (Google) It is worn around the neck and has a mini jack to plug into your radio (accepts plug adapters too). There are also products that fit against the aid behind the ear too. It couples the signal to your tel coil and you hear only the radio. My aid is able to select both tel coil and mike too, so I get best of both worlds when selected. Far less costly than those aviation headsets! Really comfy, because you do not have to wrap them headphones around your head, and your friends will be wondering what
Re: [drakelist] J-38 KEY PARTS
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Try Tom - W1TP. He collects keys and has many in all conditions. Or the Vibroplex dealer on line. I have bought restoration parts from him and am well satisfied. I saw a scruffy J-38 at a flea market this week for $10 on Friday that was marked up to $25 on Saturday :-) Passed up a beautiful 2B RX on Friday, but it was gone on Saturday. jim / W1FMR --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Anyone have key parts for the J-38. I need a knurled screw for top of the post (brass I think) Jim What comes to mind of course was the war surplus place I picked up mine at in 1958, but other than that the one place I can think of, if some member cannot come up with one or the part that you need, would be Fair Radio Lima, Oh Carl WD8NHK ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] 2B - WWV, 30M, 160M XTALS ?
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- What freq. crystals do you use for WWV, 30m, 160m, and What position do you plug them in ? I am trying to figure this out and attached a spreadsheet with an effort. Don't know if this list is correct and don't know the position to plug them into. Some crystals with wire leads are available at this site: http://www.norcalqrp.org/norcalcrystals.htm Jim / W1FMR -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] 2B - WWV, 30M, 160M XTALS ? FORGOT SPREADSHEET !
--- Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- What freq. crystals do you use for WWV, 30m, 160m, and What position do you plug them in ? I am trying to figure this out and attached a spreadsheet with an effort. Don't know if this list is correct and don't know the position to plug them into. Some crystals with wire leads are available at this site: http://www.norcalqrp.org/norcalcrystals.htm Jim / W1FMR -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- 2B XTALS.xls Description: 1961361648-2B XTALS.xls
Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B.. Make a basket case into a plain Jane.. Part II
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thank you John, Espically for the tips on using: Satin Black, rubbing compound / turtle wax (essential), FINISH RE-NU, and DE-OXIT. Will gladly add your note to my 2B file. I tried 2 part chrome fingernail polish on the main tuning knob rust with mixed results. Don't know if I like the rust better :-) The dial backround was rusty and that's why I re-painted the visible part. And used the same Ivory paint on the little arrowhead pointers on the knobs (toothpick to paint). Do you think I should give the tuning shaft a whack (pressure) to try to correct the slight bend ? A whack probably bent it in the first place. Wonder if a whack or pressure in the opposite direction would correct or break it ? A flea market is coming up and I will look for knobs, a tuning shaft (fat chance :-) or a better 2B. I also have a set of Drake twins. Haven't tried the transmitter but the R4-B receiver works great. Think that I like the 2B better though. 14.060 crystals are available cheaply and should provide 10 Mhz WWV, and 30m coverage. Nice talking with you John...I'm 68 and a ham for 54 years, and a diehard QRPer. Short bio on QRZ.com. Best regards, jim --- john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Jim, All sounds good! I always advise against cleaning screened dial glass (for the reasons you found out!!!), and I'd suggest Satin Black as a good match for the cabinet. White rubbing compound or turtle wax does a nice job on hardware heads AND knobs / trim rings and the ivory dial backgroundand cabinets! Essential stuff. I've got some polish... Finish re-nu thats like a finer white compound in liquid suspension that I use on lots of things from auto parts store. 2B slide switches are perpetually bad...de-oxit from the back (at least they're easy to clean!) They're great little radios! John K5MO At 10:04 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi John - K5MO, and John, W1JA; Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is sometimes very noisy. Wonder if the AC line is used for other things besides power (BPL) ? I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B is a lot more fun to fix. Don't know where to start... Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK) For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with soap and water, rinse and dry. sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust. Apply Rust Converter from Walmart. Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer. Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart) and sand. Repeat till smooth. Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or apply with q-tip or toothpick. (I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match) *IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate is protected with clear spray that will cloud up if you disturb it. CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-( Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. Punch holes in bottom of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint. Glossy black #1601 really looks good on screws. I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front, sides and back of chassis. I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis. Looks kinda macho, and better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF connector with shiny ones. Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C clamp. Will have to re-touch up case again with semi-flat this time :-( Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking worse than the panel, will repaint it. It looks easy - no lettering :-) Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic. Scrape rust with a small screwdriver. Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick. Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look better. (ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and pick a good size) Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look 100% better than rust. Super glue washers to knob. Center carefully. Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic faceplate do-hicky. Dial backround: Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510 Ivory Satin. Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way. Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and spray the visible section. Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost perfectly. Lubricate moving parts
[drakelist] Drake 2B
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B presentable as my boatanchor receiver. The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty. Replaced the DC filter caps Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors Repaired rust on the case and front panel Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted. Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but this morning heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum). Will see if works OK tonight. And someone must have banged the receiver down on the main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit. The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned. Not serious but annoying. The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did last night :-) wonderful ! If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob repair and what I used to lube the moving parts, and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20 years in a damp basement, let me know and I will post something. The radio does not look absolutely original, but I really enjoy looking at it and listening to it. If the chassis were not completely pitted I would meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio, not restored 2B, but a user and a keeper. Never thought it would look as good as it does. 72, jim / W1FMR to be replaced if anyone has any. -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Drake 2B How to make a basket case look like an plane Jane..
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi John - K5MO, and John, W1JA; Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is sometimes very noisy. Wonder if the AC line is used for other things besides power (BPL) ? I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B is a lot more fun to fix. Don't know where to start... Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK) For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with soap and water, rinse and dry. sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust. Apply Rust Converter from Walmart. Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer. Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart) and sand. Repeat till smooth. Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or apply with q-tip or toothpick. (I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match) *IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate is protected with clear spray that will cloud up if you disturb it. CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-( Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint. Punch holes in bottom of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint. Glossy black #1601 really looks good on screws. I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front, sides and back of chassis. I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis. Looks kinda macho, and better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF connector with shiny ones. Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C clamp. Will have to re-touch up case again with semi-flat this time :-( Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking worse than the panel, will repaint it. It looks easy - no lettering :-) Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic. Scrape rust with a small screwdriver. Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick. Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look better. (ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and pick a good size) Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look 100% better than rust. Super glue washers to knob. Center carefully. Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic faceplate do-hicky. Dial backround: Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510 Ivory Satin. Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way. Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and spray the visible section. Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost perfectly. Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow teflon Superior Lubricant. Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings. Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts, LLC...Look it up on Google. Save the old Capacitor can. You might want to cut it to replace caps on a mint 2B. I think that is it. Let me know what you think. Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear but fun (and only about $90 worth of stuff) to make the 2B presentable and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind. I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better one magically appears. 72/73 Jim / W1FMR --- john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the edges, chassis very pitted, chips off the front panel. Works flawlessly! :-) John K5MO At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B presentable as my boatanchor receiver. The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty. Replaced the DC filter caps Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors Repaired rust on the case and front panel Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted. Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but this morning heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum). Will see if works OK tonight. And someone must have banged the receiver down on the main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit. The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned. Not serious but annoying. The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did last night :-) wonderful ! If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob repair and what I used to lube the moving parts, and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20 years in a damp basement, let me know and I will post something. The radio does not look absolutely original, but I really enjoy looking at it and listening to it. If the chassis were not completely pitted I would meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio, not restored 2B
RE: [drakelist] Drake 2B
Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Your wish is my command !! jim --- Terry Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Terry Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- There must be something about 2B's that cause the same (cosmetic, mostly) defects. Jim (W1FMR), I'd love to see what you did posted. Terry K7WLD -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of john Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:01 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; drakelist Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the edges, chassis very pitted, chips off the front panel. Works flawlessly! :-) John K5MO At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B presentable as my boatanchor receiver. The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty. Replaced the DC filter caps Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors Repaired rust on the case and front panel Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted. Had the radio playing absolutely super last night but this morning heard a loud buzz (not exactly a hum). Will see if works OK tonight. And someone must have banged the receiver down on the main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit. The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is turned. Not serious but annoying. The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did last night :-) wonderful ! If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob repair and what I used to lube the moving parts, and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20 years in a damp basement, let me know and I will post something. The radio does not look absolutely original, but I really enjoy looking at it and listening to it. If the chassis were not completely pitted I would meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio, not restored 2B, but a user and a keeper. Never thought it would look as good as it does. 72, jim / W1FMR to be replaced if anyone has any. -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
