Re: [drakelist] Help T-4XC

2005-11-27 Thread Ken, WA2LBI


Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Seth,

If the T-4XC works with the R-4C PTO controlling transceive but does 
not work with the T-4XC internal PTO then I would check the output of 
the T-4XC PTO.  Is the PTO getting voltage?


Ken, WA2LBI


Quoting Korman Seth [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



Korman Seth [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi Gang,

Can someone please help?
I have a Drake C line that was working perfectly up
until today...

The Transmitter lights up and has the proper bias, but
I can not tune or get trancieve function from the
T-4XC VFO. It's as though I am not on any frequency.I
can not even zero beat with the spot function. I have
a T4X that I substituted for the T-4XC and it worked
fine with the R-4C. The AC-4 and the cables to the Inj
and PTO seem to be Okay.
ANY IDEAS???

Thanks in advance,
Seth




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Re: [drakelist] R4B T4XB transceive alignment with c61 and 5645 Kc oscillator.

2005-10-26 Thread Ken, WA2LBI


Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Jim,

Regardless of how you got there it's good to hear you are back in business!

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Jim Zellmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Ken,

TNX for the information.  I removed the 5595 Kc crystal to get a look 
at the factory padding cap.  It was a 12 pf NPO cap.   I lifted the 
ground side of the cap to remove it from the circuit and replaced the 
crystal.  I tried the zero beat adjustment again but could not get 
enough capacitance on C61 to get the zero beat.  I added a 6 pf NPO 
cap to the back of the circit board to add back a little of the 
padding.  Now I get zerobeat at about the midpoint of adjustment on 
C61.  I figure I can remove the 6 pf cap in about thirty years to 
tweak the R4B again.


TNX ES 73

Jim Zellmer
KA)VSL

Ken, WA2LBI wrote:



Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Jim,

I have also run into this problem.  The 5595 KC oscillator in the 
R-4B would not make frequency so it couldn't match the transmitter.  
The piston trimmer was at the end of its travel (but needed to go 
further, just like yours!).  I removed the factory padding capacitor 
(C155) from C61 and that brought it within range.


Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Jim Zellmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]:








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Re: [drakelist] R4B T4XB transceive alignment with c61 and 5645 Kc oscillator.

2005-10-25 Thread Ken, WA2LBI


Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jim,

I have also run into this problem.  The 5595 KC oscillator in the R-4B 
would not make frequency so it couldn't match the transmitter.  The 
piston trimmer was at the end of its travel (but needed to go further, 
just like yours!).  I removed the factory padding capacitor (C155) from 
C61 and that brought it within range.


Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Jim Zellmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



Jim Zellmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Drake fans,

I have a set of B line twins for several years and enjoy them.  They 
are working pretty well, exept for an occasion vox hangup on the TX 
and some comments that I am not on frequency when I try the tranceive 
mode.  I also get comments that I am a couple of hundred cycles off 
when I use the spot function on the twins.  I tried the transceive 
alignment instructions mentioned in the manual, where both pre 
selectors are set at about 6.5 and then adjusing C61 on the R4B to 
zero beat the tweat.  My problem is that i can not get to the beat 
frequency to zero out before I hit minimum capacitance on C61.  I 
tried sliding the brass sleeve up the plastic form on C61 abit to 
make sure I was at the minimum capacitance.  The 5645 Khz second 
mixer oscillator crystal is painted red.


Any ideas out in Drake land?

Jim Zellmer
KA0VSL
SC
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Re: [drakelist] Vox Rly connector

2005-10-24 Thread Ken, WA2LBI


Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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George,

The 2 pin plug is almost unobtainium.  Those of us who have even one 
more than we need are VERY unwilling to part with it (them).


As for the relay jack, neither side is grounded.  The terminals of the 
jack are floating and are connected to contacts of relay K1 that close 
in transmit mode. You could ground one side and wire the contacts to a 
RCA jack so you could use a standard RCA plug and cable to connect to 
your amp (if that is your intention).  This mod can be done so that the 
original socket remains in place and doesn't alter the value of the 
AC-4.  Also, if you ever find an OEM plug you will be able to use it!


Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting George Bennett [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

I am trying to locate the 2 pin plug that fits the vox relay jack on 
the back of the AC-4.  Can anyone help me?  Also, which side is 
ground?


Thanks,

George




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Re: [drakelist] switch words

2005-09-25 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Jerry,

Maybe I missed it, what model Drake do you have?

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Jerry M Judy [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

   I need help with a drake question. On the bottm case in the very back is a
 switch that I need to know what the three words are so I can put a lable on
 the switch. Could some one pleas send me this in fo?  KE8NP

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Re: [drakelist] T4-XC low output

2005-09-06 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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George,

Before you break out the arsenal of test gear try removing all the
interconnecting cables and cleaning the connectors.  You may have developed
some resistance in the connectors.  Sometimes a simple removal and insertion of
the connectors is all it takes.  While you have them disconnected you can also
test them for continuity.  A broken center conductor or shield can cause a
similar problem to what you are experiencing.

Good luck!

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting K4GM-George [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 K4GM-George [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 Until recently my T4XC PTO output was perfect in that there was no
 difference in S meter readings on signals when switching from
 transceive with the R4C PTO to transceive with the T4XC PTO.Then
 about  a month ago I noticed an occasional loss of received signal
 strength when using the T4XC PTO. The loss was 30db or so.  Today the
 problem went from occasional to permanent,I can still SPOT the
 T4XC but it puts out only S3 when it used to put out S9 on the
 R4C.   I have tried replacing the pertinent mixer, pre-mixer and
 driver tubes w/o success.  My next step is to start a methodical
 analysis of voltage and resistance measurements.  Before doing so I
 thought I would inquire of the Drake group whether anyone might have
 an idea of where best to focus/start.

 K4GM- George


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Re: [drakelist] odd idea

2005-08-05 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Sure you can build a kluge box, I have something similar for the test bench.
For the station, however, I standardized on the Kenwood 4 pin mic wiring scheme
and wired adapter cables for every rig.

Using this method I only need one mating plug for each rig.  The other end of
the adapter cable has a cable-mounted male 4 pin plug that mates with the
female on the mic cable.  I can use any mic on any rig assuming the impedance
matches.  For my Icom gear that requires an electret condenser mic, I have a
FET preamp that is powered by the Icom mic bias.  The input of the preamp
accepts a non-electret mic and is wired for a Kenwood 4 pin mic.

My Shure 444D and Yaesu MD-1 have impedance selector switches so they are very
flexible and can be used on the GB, hybrid, and sand state gear just by moving
the switch.  This is also very handy in the shop!

I have heard of others who use a similar standard but have elected to use
stereo plugs/sockets for the mic instead of the 4 pin connectors.
The stereo plugs allow for quick disconnects but I like the security of the
screw connectors.

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 odd idea

 I have a problem.

 I have only one drake mike plug and three mike's
 a turner plugt for kenwood a shure for yaesu and a astatic for yaesu.
 Now I have an odd idea.
 a box with in that a kenwood and yaesu contraplug and at the back side
 the drake plug

 is this possible??


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Re: [drakelist] External receiver use.

2005-07-31 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Paul,

Do you have the 75S-1 in STBY or OPR?  I believe it has to be in STBY for the
mute line of the TR-4 to control the mute function of the Collins.

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Paul Solek [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 I have a TR4 Serial number 19419, works great.  However, I would like to use
 a Collins 75S-1 receiver with the TR4.  When I connect the receiver mute and
 antenna to the 75S-1, I get feedback, the receiver is not being muted.  Yes,
 I am moving the slide switch to Receiver.  There is also a panel on the rear
 of the TR4 that looks to be a factory mod.  The panel has the following RCA
 plugs;



 O  O  O
 O

  EXT   RCVRHF   HF

  OUT   MUTE   RCVR ANT







 O   O



 A  B



  PA   DIS





 I have connected the 75S-1 to both HF rcvr and HF ant with the same results,
 feedback.Has anyone used the 75S-1 receiver with a TR4/TR4C?  And, how
 was it connected.  Also, does anyone know anything about the apparent white
 wire factory mod?





 Paul





 There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes.



Doctor Who





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Re: [drakelist] Question abt Low Cap. Cables for the Drake Twins

2005-03-25 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Eric,

IIRC, the INJ cable has phono connectors with a white insulation.

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Eric Webner [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 My entire set of cables for my 4-line are labelled at each end, i.e. CAR OSC,
 INJ, ANTI-VOX, and so on. The cables all look the same, so I don't know how
 one would tell the difference if the labels fell off the cable ends.

 73,

 Eric


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
 --
 Can you identify the factory supplied cables that came with the 4 line by
 looking at the plug end of the cable?

 If not,is there any other way to identify the low cap. cables?

 Phil W8UV

 
 mail2web - Check your email from the web at
 http://mail2web.com/ .


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Re: [drakelist] 20.8 MHz (30 Meter) T-4XC Crystal wanted

2005-02-28 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Eric,

Jan Crystals has all the information to make the Drake crystals.  Call the
number on the web site and tell them what you frequency want.  Once I had
placed my orders I have corresponded with Sue Brick.  I included her e-mail
address below.  You may be able to place the order with her via e-mail but you
will have to call her with your credit card info (I would not include it in a
plain text e-mail message).

  Sue Brick (JAN Crystals Sales) [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Good luck and 73,

Ken



Quoting Eric Webner [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 The bottom line is that a crystal in the receive accessory slot will make the
 radios behave just as on any band that is pre-installed.

 I bought crystals years ago from Jan Crystals. I looked at their web site
 yesterday, but was not impressed. Can you order them online, or is it better
 to just call them and tell them what I need, and for what radio?

 Eric
 KA8FAN


 Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Eric,

 The Drake manual is not in front of me and I forget which xtal freq is for
 10.0
 MHZ, WWV, but that is 30 meters. Once you get that working on receive it is
 as
 simple as you describe to operate transceive. Just set the T-4XC mode switch
 to
 RECEIVE and use the receiver PTO to control transmit and receive on the 30
 meter band. If you put a 30M xtal in the transmitter then you can also use
 the
 xmit PTO to control transceive. The transceive procedure is the same for all
 bands.

 I have been getting my xtals from JAN Crystals. They are about $14 and are
 guaranteed. If you get a used one it will probably cost about $10-$12 and
 have
 no guarantee.

 Ken, WA2LBI



 Quoting Eric Webner :

  I wonder if the 21.1 Mhz crystal would work as well. It sure would be a lot
  easier to operated the vfo, since the band would start at 10.0 Mhz instead
 of
  9.7 or whatever the manual says.
 
  Can you experts tell me what it takes to transceive on accessory crystals?
  Can I get a crystal for the receiver, set the T-4XC mode switch to
 RECEIVE
  and be able to transmit and receive on the 30 meter band?
 
  73,
 
  Eric KA8FAN
 
  David Havel wrote:
 
  Hello gang,
 
  I'm in search of a 20.8 MHz crystal for my T-4XC in order to put it on 30
  meters. According to the manual, the 20.8 unit is the only recommended
  crystal for use on this band. If you have one you'd like to sell, please
  email me what you're asking for it!
 
  Thank you in advance  73,
 
  David Havel - NO3K
 
 
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Re: [drakelist] R4A AGC inop.

2004-04-09 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

George,

A few questions:
* Did you verify that the transistor is good? It might be loose as the result of
somebody's previous attempt to repair the same problem. I have had bad ones.
* When you turn the function switch to standby does the S meter rise to 60 and
is the receiver muted?
* While monitoring the AVC/AGC line test point does it change as the function
switch is moved from ON to Standby?
* Have you verified that the bias supply voltage is present and correct?
* Does bias voltage appear at the high side of the RF gain control?
* Have you checked for continuity and proper resistor values in the vicinity of
the RF gain control?

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting George [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 Hi all
 went through it and found the transistor on the agc board was loose
 resoldered and went to readjust the bias and s meter. I turned the
 rf gain fully counterclockwise and it would not move the s meter to 60 like
 it did before and was bouncing around. still no agc action.

 George ne2i



 - Original Message -
 From: Ken, WA2LBI [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: George [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 4:04 AM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] R4A AGC inop.


 
  George,
 
  Since this receiver is new to you don't overlook the possibility of
 MULTIPLE
  problems. I serviced a R-4B last year that had similar symptoms, among
 others,
  to yours and it turned out to have several bad tubes and resistors. Of
 course I
  had swapped tubes in order to isolate the problem but I was actually
 swapping
  one bad tube for another! Talk about chasing your tail!
 
  Have you checked all the voltages and resistances against the
 corresponding
  charts in the manual? That is a good place to start with a new rig with an
  unknown history.
 
  Keep us posted on your progress.
 
  Ken, WA2LBI
 
  Quoting Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 
  
   George -
  
   OK..
  
   Measure the voltage at TP-2 (on top of the chassis, just in
   front of the Passband tuner.)  Should measure -1.35 volts
   with the the Preselector detuned on any band.
  
   Have you tried both Fast and Slow AVC?  If no AVC in either
   position, try swapping the Calibrator tube, 12BA6, with
   either of the IF tubes, V4 or V5.  Something is loading the
   AVC line.  If this doesn't help, try swapping the RF Amp, V1
   with another 12BZ6.
  
   Beyond this, you'll have to find what is either loading or
   shorting the AVC line.  Possibly one of the grid resistors
   of V1, V4 or V5 cracked or open.  They can go up in value
   considerably without affecting the AVC, so unless they are
   open, look elsewhere.
  
   Let us know what you find.
  
   73, Garey - K4OAH
  
  
  
   George wrote:
  
To add to that it is an 11 tube model (no 12av6)
   
George NE2I
  - Original Message -
  From: George
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 9:00 PM
  Subject: [drakelist] R4A AGC inop.
   
   
  Just bought an r4a and it seems like the agc is not working at all
  I have to ride the rf gain or I get way too much audio and
 distortion
  It has good sensitivity and is spot on frequency wise.
   
  Also when I select NB or cal the s-meter pegs and I dont get any
 audio.
   
  Thanks
  George NE2I
   
   
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Re: [drakelist] Filter Cap on Drake R4A

2004-03-18 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Al,

That is a good point you made about not using the lugs of the old cap for tie
points. I do make safe use of them, however, as supports for terminal strips.
After you remove ALL wires from the cap lugs you can solder the mounting foot
of a terminal strip to one of the capacitor lugs. If the foot also has a
solder lug be sure to cut it off so you won't be tempted to use it. You can
also cut off the lugs of the defective can capacitor to give you more room
under the chassis for mounting the new, smaller replacement caps.

Ken, WA2LBI
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Quoting Al Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 Hi Peter(s),
 I was going to answer earlier, but was still sorting thru the AM's
 email, and breakfat inturrupted.  It is not terribly difficult to
 re-stuff the can, but you must pay attn to the size of the discrete caps
 used, it varies by mfgr.  I don't think there's enough space to do it
 easily and neatly under the chassis with discretes, but they are getting
 smaller.   (the transformers in the R-4A/B's do normally run quite warm)
 Earlier responses from Peter, VE3AX, Herbert, DG7MCC, and Ken, WA2LBI,
 are all well taken.  I particularly agree with Ken, don't parallel old
 caps with new except as a test, and if one section has gone bad, the
 others will follow soon.  Also, don't use the old caps' lugs as tie
 points, exc. ground lugs.
 Ron, WB4HFN's website:
 http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeHomePage.htm
 has grown into a super site for technical (and other) info.  We all should
 access it often when we have any problems.
 You can see my filter cap rebuild at:
 http://www.thecompendium.net/radio/filtercap.htm
 I also have incl. a section there on AC-3/4 caps, thanks to Mark, K9MRK.
 Lets all continue to help each other to keep those neat Drakes going.
 (I just had a call this AM from a local friend who has filter cap problems
 in his AC-3, he'll be here in another hour or so.)
 73,
 Al, W8UT
 New Bern, NC
 BoatAnchors appreciated here
 http://www.thecompendium.net/radio/
 http://www.hammarlund.info

 - Original Message -
 From: VE3AX [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Peter Hoon [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 7:21 AM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] Filter Cap on Drake R4A


 
  Peter:
 
  In addition to Herbert's excellent advice, check out the new additions
 to
  WB4HFN's web site and see the post by AL Parker, W8UT, here on replacing
  Drake rx electrolytics.
 
  73
 
  Peter
  VE3AX
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Peter Hoon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 R4A: It appears that one or more sections of the Sangamo power supply
 filter cap are defective, since I measure 5.2 volts p - p with a scope at
 the
   junction of diodes D4 and D5 (156 VDC).  And my power transformer gets
 very hot.
  
   The cap is in a single aluminum Sangamo chassis mount with:
   100 MFD 200 VDC
   100 MFD 200 VDC
   100 MFD 200 VDC
   20 MFD 20 VDC
  
   1)  Anyone have a spare from an R4A they are parting out?
   2)  Suggestions for a source for this filter cap from others who have
 gone before me.
   3)  Have improvisors found discrete caps from a source (pse recommend
 one),
   left the chassis mount unit alone, and mounted these discrete caps
 under the chassis?
   4) Has anyone actually drilled out this filter cap shell, and mounted
 discrete components inside?
   Any other ideas or comments appreciated.
  
   Peter, VE1CHS


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[drakelist] TR-4 Status

2004-01-09 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Good morning to all,

Thanks to all who responded to my request yesterday for a LSB filter for the
TR-4 I had just obtained. The situation had changed. To review, yesterday
afternoon I received an inoperative TR-4 that I was told just had the LSB
filter removed to repair another functional TR-4. When I opened it up last
night I discovered the entire filter soup can is missing along with a 12BA6
(I haven't checked to see if I have one). The filter selector switch appears to
be intact and the leads to the filter are still neatly hanging where the can
should be located. I have never worked on a TR-4 so I don't know exactly what
the can and mounting hardware look like. The picture in the manual isn't very
helpful.

In light of the above development I now need the entire soup can, any mounting
hardware, and both the USB and LSB filters. Does anybody have the entire unit
available? If not, do you have the can and mounting hardware? I can contact
others who responded yesterday and offered one/both filters.

It has been suggested by more than one respondent that I use INRAD filters as
they are much better. I do agree but at $110 apiece I would be putting $220
into a radio that is known to be inoperative for unknown reasons and still
require troubleshooting. What is the going price for a working TR-4 in good
condition, maybe $300?

Thanks for any and all assistance and/or advice.

Ken, WA2LBI
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[drakelist] TR-4 Status Update

2004-01-09 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Good evening,

Thanks again to all who have offered advice and parts regarding the repair of
this TR-4 that is missing both SSB filters and the mounting bracket. They were
removed by a previous owner to repair a working TR-4. With the exception of
those missing items, and an incorrect knob on the filter switch, it appears to
be complete, unmodifed, and unmolested. The rig is in physically good condition
including the copper chassis which is bright and shiny with only a couple small
blemishes and no corrosion.

Unfortunately, I have discovered that the cost of obtaining the missing two
filters and bracket (that I have not yet located) may cost as much as the rig
is worth if not more. Even after replacing those parts I will still have to
troubleshoot the original unknown problem and, of course, replace any defective
components and/or tubes.

Based on the above I will either part out the pieces or sell the entire rig as
is unless I can obtain the filters and bracket at a very good price. I'll wait
until early next to see what responses may trickle in over the weekend before
posting my decision.

If you have the filters and/or bracket please let me know what you have and what
you want for it/them. If you want pieces or the entire rig send me a note
detailing what you want. It may help me decide which way to go! To be fair, if
I decide to sell either parts or the entire rig I will respond to the e-mails
in the order received.

Thanks,

Ken, WA2LBI
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[drakelist] Drake TR-4 LSB Filter

2004-01-08 Thread Ken, WA2LBI

Good afternoon to all,

I just acquired a TR-4 today that appears to be in good physical shape. The
previous owner had received it in a non-working condition (unknown what is
wrong) and removed the LSB filter to repair another TR-4 he owned. No other
parts were removed nor work performed on the rig while in his hands. So what I
have is a good looking TR-4 that is inoperative for an unknown reason(s) and
has no LSB filter. I haven't brought it home yet so I don't know what it looks
like inside. I should get to that tonight. I'll see if I can get it going on
USB (assuming that filter is good).

While I have worked on a number of B and C lines I have no experience with
the transceivers nor the availability of parts. Before I begin work on this
unit I need to know if the LSB (and USB) filters are available and what I can
expect to pay for them. If the price is too high it may not make sense for me
to repair the rig. If that is the case I may part out the pieces or offer the
rig as a parts donor.

Your advise is appreciated.

Ken, WA2LBI
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