Re: [drakelist] TR7 NB

[w1id]

There are Drake noise blankers and then all the rest. I agree on the NB-7. This 
also applies to the noise blankers used in the TR-4 series including the TR-6 
and the R-4C, SPR-4 receivers. Although the R-4B has a decent noise blanker, it 
is nowhere near as effective as the ones just mentioned. All are very similar 
in design if not IF frequency. However, I must say the noise blankers in the 
Yaesu FT-920 and FT-100mp mkV are also very effiective. The only drawback in 
the Yaesu rigs is the front end filter is a bit wide and limits the 
effectiveness of the blankers due to strong adjacent signals. Like you, I am 
severely limited by noise at my QTH. One of the things that helps with a single 
source of noise is the ANC-4 now manufactured by Timewave. My noise antenna 
is usually a Hustler 6-BTV mounted on the ground in my back yard. It can be 
tricky to adjust however. Another solution is the use of a beam antenna. It 
turns out a north-east pattern is pretty good from 20m - 10m. Th!
e types
 of noise I get are many and range from defective street lights, electrical 
appliances in the various homes around me (touch lamps being the worse), and 
line noise. I've also had problems with in-home burglar alarms. One of those 
was kind of fun as I told the home owner I knew when he wasn't home :-) That 
got fixed in a hurry! It seems that whenever I track down one source and get it 
fixed, another appears to take its place! I'm not ready to give up yet. 
-- Original message -- 
From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Thom LaCosta made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 On Tue, 24 Apr 2007, D.W. Harms wrote: 
 
  
  D.W. Harms made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
  -- 
  I dont think this is a good idea Bill. I am having both the TR7 NB and the 
  K2 NB, and I can tell you that the Elecraft NB is wa aaay lower quality 
  than the Drake!! 
 
 I have both, and can also tell you that dare you question the qulaity of the 
 K2 
 NB on the Elecraft list, you will not get much information that will help you 
 make a valid decission. 
 
 One of the things that really disappoints me is the NB in the K2...it is such 
 that I can hardly get on the air anymorer because of the various types of QRN 
 present in this old city. 
 
 73,Thom-k3hrn 
 www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring, 
 QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database 
 www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month 
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Re: [drakelist] PS7

[w1id]

The 723 regulator is probably bad. One way to confirm this is by measuring the 
voltage on pins 5 and 6 which should be around 7.1 volts. The 723 is powered 
separately from the main supply by its own DC source. There is a 2N3566 pass 
transistor supplying DC to pins 11 and 12. The base of this transistor is 
conncected to a 2N5060 thyristor to ground. The thyristor gate is connected to 
a PNP transistor, 2N4402 to the reference voltage of the 723 on pins 5 and 6. 
The PNP transistor gate monitors the PS-7 output voltage through a 2K voltage 
adjust pot. If the PS-7 output voltage should drop drastically from what is 
expected, the PNP transistor will pass some some of the reference voltage to 
the thyristor gate which will then trigger, bringing the base of the pass 
transistor within two diode drops of ground and therefore shut down the 723. 
The 723 minimum operating voltage to pins 11 and 12 is around 9.5 volts and as 
much as 37 volts. Unlike more modern solid-state regulators, the!
 723 do
es not have thermal shutdown. It also doesn not tolerate reverse voltage. For 
example, if you shut down the supply but you had it feeding a very large DC 
storage component such as a large electrolytic or capacitor bank, the 
electrolytics will start dumping voltage back towards the output of the 723 
while the input is shut down. When this unlikely event occurs, you can smell it 
 :-(
-- Original message -- 
From: Lars-Åke Jansson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 =?iso-8859-1?B?TGFycy3Fa2UgSmFuc3Nvbg==?= made an utterance 
 to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 Hello out there, 
 
 Hopefully someone can give me an advice regarding my PS7. 
 
 The problem is it only delivers 3 V. 
 There is 24,2 V out from the high current bridge (MDA3500). It is not 
 possible to adjust the output voltaged with the yellow potentiometer on PCB, 
 no response. After about 30 sec the IC MC1723 is hot like an oven. 
 
 73 de SM6CGI/Lars-Ake 
 
 _ 
 Senaste nytt om Paris och Lindsey http://starlounge.msn.se/ 
 
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Re: [drakelist] Tubetester for 6JB6(A)

[w1id]

None. The best way to find out if a 6JB6 is good or not is by direct 
substitution. Sweep tubes were never meant for RF PA use. Tube testers, except 
for the Hickok brand usually test for tube parameters at 120 Hz or in your 
case, maybe 100 Hz, not Mhz. Hickok, I believe used 5 kHz for tube testing but 
this is still far short of what the tube will see in actual transmitter 
service. Furthermore they do not test them at the power levels you would 
encounter in a transmitter. However if they have a test function for measuring 
transconductance they can be used to match various tubes. It's also usefull for 
testing heater continuity but you can tell that just by looking at the tube 
when power is applied. You should have a set of spare finals handy in the event 
that you need to replace the finals. You will know when your finals need 
replacing when power output on the lower bands is where you would usually 
expect it to be but falls drastically on the higher bands such as 15 and 
certain!
ly 10 m
eters. You don't need a tube tester for that. In general, tube testers can 
never be relied upon with absolute certainty as the final arbiter of tube 
performance. Many times it has been found that tubes that fail in the tube 
tester work just fine in the actual circuit. Personally, I have a love/hate 
relationship with those things if such a relationship can in fact exist. They 
are very usefull when going through a batch of tubes and weeding out the 
obvious problems: shorts, open filaments, leaks. My aversion to them harks back 
to the days when I started in the business. A technician who reached for a tube 
tester before making observations and taking measurements was the sure mark of 
a poor technician.
-- Original message -- 
From: Bent Jørgensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Hallo All

I need to know which tubetester is the best to use for the 6JB6(A).
What can be recommended?

Thanks for your help!

73
OZ5ZD
Bent Jørgensen

Re: [drakelist] U9003 DR-7 PROM Chip- Copy?

[w1id]

Very interesting post. Suddenly I realize there is another fly in the ointment 
besides part and hardware obsolescence: the operating system. I wonder what 
Drake used. Was it Dos, CP/M, or what? Also what is the data format? Im curious.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Jim Pruitt made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 Hello Mike and the group. 
 
 I have it from 2 reliable sources that U9003 was actually a mask programmed 
 74S387 which is a 256 x 4 bipolar prom. 
 
 I have found circuits for a couple of readers. One is at 
 http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/5857/progamr.htm 
 but will only do the Signetics versions (82S126, 82S129, etc) which are 
 available from Jameco but much more expensive than the 74S387. What I have 
 not been able to find is what software to use with that hardware. N7OCS 
 sells a dos program but I can not tell from his web page if that will only 
 set up files for Syntor and MCX100 Motorola vhf radios or if it will read 
 and program all the devices the programmer will work with. So if anyone 
 knows where to get software that will work with the programmer I would be 
 interested in knowing. 
 
 I do know that there are many universal programmers in current production 
 that read bipolar proms but most are in the $800 plus price range. There 
 was one a pocket programmer that I ran across that is usb but is $250. It 
 is or was very popular with the PIC group. 
 
 I do not know if any of this information helps or not but I would also be 
 interested in getting the hex file if anyone does happen to read one of the 
 U9003 devices. 
 
 Thank you. 
 
 Jim Pruitt 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: MICHAEL TALLENT 
 To: David Stinson ; 
 Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 8:40 PM 
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] U9003 DR-7 PROM Chip- Copy? 
 
 
  
  MICHAEL TALLENT made an utterance to the 
 drakelist gang 
  -- 
  Do you have the part number of the PROM, I have many old data books and 
  maybe I can tell you the size. I also have several PROM programmers by 
  Data-IO that could probably read it, or make copies. 
  
  Mike Tallent W6MXV 
  
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Stinson 
  To: ; Gerry 
  Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:32 PM 
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] U9003 DR-7 PROM Chip- Copy? 
  
  
   
   David Stinson made an utterance to the drakelist 
  gang 
   -- 
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: Gerry 
   Subject: RE: [drakelist] U9003 DR-7 PROM Chip- Copy? 
   
   
You may well have the ONLY remaining example. 
I believe the chip was discontinued ages ago. 
I wonder if anyone has an eprom reader 
that will even read it. 
Might be interesting but I think I'd rather baby the thing. 
   - 
   
   I don't have a reader... I was hoping someone had one 
   so we could get together and download the code 
   before I install it. I guess I could rig up a BCD counter and 
   record it, step by step. Can't be that big, 
   since it's mid-1970s chip can it?? 
   
   73 Dave S. 
 
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[drakelist] T-4X, adding a third final tube.

[w1id]

I thought this would be obvious just from looking at the final cage: there is 
no room. The layout and size of the TR-4 final stage is quite different from 
the T-4X series. As far as dimensions go, they are both the same height but 
that's it. T-4X/TR-4: width= 6 1/2 vs 6 3/4, depth: 4 1/2 vs 5 3/16. Three 
won't go into two.

Re: [drakelist] AC-4R upgrades

[w1id]

An open 220k bleeder resistor makes sense. I guess you could check that by 
disconnecting it and checking the resistance. Makes me wonder what would cause 
it to fail. Assuming 250 volts it would need to dissipate 0.28 watt. If it's a 
1/2 watt carbon composition resistor, it might have increased in value over 
time. Those resistors are known to do that.
-- Original message -- 
From: Ken Winterling [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Ken Winterling made an utterance to the drakelist 
 gang 
 -- 
 Tom, 
 
 There is a 220K bleeder/load resistor, R8, across the medium B+, 250V, 
 supply to ground. If it is open the medium B+ will be pulled up 
 toward the HV. Let us know what you find. 
 
 Ken, WA2LBI 
  
  On 1/14/07, Tom Taylor wrote: 
   Still working on the AC-3... The drakelist wisdom was the 20k load 
   resistor 
   didn't present enough of a load, compared to the original 10k resistor, 
   and 
   that was the reason the HV kept climbing. I ordered a 10k 10w resistor 
   and 
   it recently arrived and I installed it in place. Note that this resistor 
   connects the HV+ with the medium voltage B+ (which seems odd). With this 
   new 
   resistor, the HV now reads a reasonable and respectable 720v (no load). 
   That's good. But the medium voltage now reads 570v !!! I can't explain 
   it. 
   What's different about the medium voltage supply is I replaced the two 
   100 
   uf caps with 330 uf caps and the 80 uf cap with a 120 uf. That's what I 
   had 
   in my junk box. Why is that supply so over-voltage now? Perhaps I have a 
   wiring error, though I carefully checked for errors. 
   
   Thanks, 
   Tom n7tm 
   
  
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Re: [drakelist] T-4XC Carrier Balance

[w1id]

It sounds like the carrier frequency is not centered in the middle of the two 
filters. 

-- Original message -- 
From: Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Robert Ladden made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 Hello again, 
 
 After more testing, I must be way off. Even though I have the carrier 
 completely suppressed now, I discovered that when I tune I have much more 
 plate current (150ma) and output power on LSB than USB. The voice is 
 intelligible on both LSB and USB, but LSB sounds glassy, USB sounding 
 more rich with more low voice tones. 
 
 So I must not be balanced, but anything else results in a carrier (about 40 
 output watts on LSB on the watt meter). 
 
 Do I have a major problem? A bad filter? Or do I just try some more before 
 shipping it out for someone smarter than me to fix? 
 
 Thanks and 73, 
 Bob Ladden WA3WQB 
 
 
 
 Robert Ladden made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 Hello all, 
  
 I just got my C-Line out of the closet after 25+ years of storage. They 
 seem to work OK. I've been playing with them with a dummy load (antenna 
 not up yet) and the one obvious problem I had is the carrier balance. The 
 watt meter showed power going out on SSB LSB with no speech. The 
 instructions for adjusting the carrier balance in the manual is not too 
 good, so I searched and found K2CU's wonderful instructions, which I 
 pasted below for safe keeping. 
  
 I found that I had to turn C6 completely clockwise to bring down the 
 carrier signal when tuned in on the receiver. But it does pass K2CU's 
 balance test procedure. I can eliminate the carrier completely with C6 
 (fully clockwise) and R21 (somewhere in the middle, it turns a lot). 
  
 C17 did not seem to do much. It may have improved the voice quality. At 
 first LSB sounded bad. After really turning C17 a lot, it seems to be the 
 same as USB. 
  
 I have yet to get the rig on the air and test with a real person. But I am 
 concerned that I needed to turn C6 to its extreme. I also note that the 
 carrier is completely gone. I also discovered that the spot signal is 
 gone. It is just a teeny noise on LSB and a very very weak carrier on USB. 
 Not really usable. It did generate a signal before I did all this. 
  
 So did I do good? Or does this rig need a lot more tweaking? 
  
 73, 
 Bob Ladden WA3WQB 
  
  
 K2CU's original message follows: 
  
 RE: [drakelist] T-4XC Carrier Balance Question 
 Robert Schenck 
 Mon, 29 Dec 2003 05:09:54 -0800 
  
 HI Mike, 
  
 Welcome to the world of the Drake equipment! 
  
 There ar ethree adjustkments that you ahev to do to correctly balance the 
 carrier. 
 They are C6, Carrier frequency trim, R21, carrier balance, and C17 Carrier 
 balance/phase. You should firest check that the carrier frequency trim is 
 correct. 
 the idea with this adjustment is to place the carrier on the same point of 
 each 
 sideband filter skirt. that is, to be just as far down on the lower skirt 
 of the USB 
 filter as you are on the upper skirt of the LSB filter. This is usually 
 done by 
 deliberatly unbalancing the modulator so that carrier leaks through. You 
 measure the 
 amplitude of the carrier on a test receiver and compare the level between 
 the USB 
 position of the T4X SSB switch and the LSB poisition. The carrier 
 amplitude should be 
 close to the same as posible. BY adjusting the carrier frequency trim, you 
 set the 
 carrier to the correct frequency for both modes. I would only mess with 
 this if there 
 is more than an S unit difference. 
  
 Then you can adjust the carrier balance pot, R21 for minimum carrier. you 
 have to also 
 adjust C17 the carrier pahse. Note that you should check for balance in 
 both USB and 
 LSB modes. you will have to adjust the trimmer, C17, for optimum carrier 
 null for noth 
 sideband modes, and to has to deal with the slight difference in reactance 
 reflected 
 back from the selected filter. Now, if you only operate 20 Mtr USB, for 
 example, you 
 could just tweak it for USB. Same is true for LSB only on a l;ower band. 
 But, it is 
 best to balance it for each mode. 
  
 Hope this helps. 
  
 73's 
  
 Rob K2CU 
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Re: [drakelist] Tr7 - PTO bulb replacement - was DR-7 install

[w1id]

Not to mention that those are single turn pots too. I replaced mine with 10 
turn trimpots a while ago.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Jim Shorney made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 08:13:18 -0600, Laird Tom N wrote: 
 
 The hard part is lifting the connectors EVENLY to avoid bending the 
 board. I had a piece old copper 12ga. house wire that I bent the end 
 (J-hook) and used that to snake under the edge of the board next to the 
 press-in connectors 
 
 
 Computer slot covers work pretty well also. 
 
 Missing from your very instructive observations is the caution to be very 
 aware of the pots on the DC-DC converter board, it is horribly easy to bump 
 them when removing/installing the DR7. Even the slightest touch will knock 
 one or more of these pots out of adjustment, and as more than one of us had 
 found out, they are critical. 
 
 73 
 
 -Jim 
 
 
 -- 
 TR7/RV7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C, L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A - all 
 vintage, all the time! 
 
 
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Re: [drakelist] INJ Cable (again)

[w1id]

What is RG75? what are its characteristics? The only RG-75 I know of was a type 
of rectangular waveguide for microwave. There must be another factor causing 
your problem. Please don't take this personally as I've experienced all the 
problems I'm about to list. Poor soldering, inner conductor shorting to the 
shield at one of the connectors, flux on the end of the center pin of one or 
both of the connectors, lousy connectors. The quality of some RCA connectors 
and plugs has become a problem. The ring which is supposed to connect to the 
body of the connector makes poor or intermittent contact. The solution is to 
solder the ring to the connector body before soldering the cable. Flux on the 
end of the center pin can be the cause of no contact with the receptacle. I now 
clean my solder joints with alcohol. As far as correcting the center conductor 
shorting to the shield problem: work fast. If the cable passes continuity with 
a DVM or equivalent then the problem is internal and not!
 due to
 the cabling. As stated many times before, almost any type of coax will work.

-- Original message -- 
From: Dan Ringer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

What are others using as an INJ cable for the R4x-T4x combos?


I know that Drake provided such a beast 'back in the day, that Belden 8421 
works well, and that there are a least a couple of RG type cables that do, 
also. But where do you get it???  I don't really need 250 feet to make one 38 
cable, and I doubt I'll find an acceptable pre-made cable locally.


Is there a commercial (or sort-of-commercial) source?  I've searched the 
archive's, the various Drake web pages and the 'net generally, without any 
clear success.  I certainly don't mind making the cable, if I can get the 
wire.


I know Garey, K4OAK, has stated that pretty much anything will work, if the 
units are aligned with the cable in place, but is that literally true?  I've 
tried RG75, but can't get the receiver to align properly for transceive.  
Although the received signals sound fine, I can't get both units on frequency.  
I'm inclined to think that I can't just plug in any old cable, of any old 
length, and expect it to work. 


Suggestions wanted!


Thanks!
Dan, K8WV

Re: [drakelist] WTB Solid tube solid state tubes for B and C line

[w1id]

Sartori was a consulting engineer at Texas Instruments when he wrote the 
article. In those days it was possible to have a semiconductor company 
manufacture custom devices on a small lot or sample basis. Therefore, he had 
access to a gold mine of resources few others had. However, custom devices were 
generally derived from an existing devices with some specifications 
differences. At some point in time, Sartori left TI and pursued other venues. I 
haven't looked at specific devices but it seem that with advances in component 
technology, it might be possible to improve or replace the original circuits. 
It would be a race against time however as the whole semiconductor industry is 
going to strictly surface mount devices in ever smaller packages. Thre could be 
even more opportunities as the package sizes change but the question is would 
an average Ham be able to handle it?

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Jim Pruitt made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
 -- 
 Hello Neil. 
 
 First, there was an article by SARTORI (the guy that later produced the 
 solid tubes commercially) in a 197x (1975 or 6 I think) QST article and was 
 written specifically for making solid state tubes for the Drake B and C 
 line. I looked very hard at it at the time. I had a friend that was an 
 executive for Tektronix. He pointed out to me that the specific transistors 
 were not that hard to find but that Sartori had spec'ed the hard to find 
 cases (TO220) for the transistors he used. I was recently told that Sartori 
 did that because he worked in the industry and got the transistor maker to 
 make them special for him so most people (including me) would have a hard 
 time finding them in the cases he recommended in the article. I recently 
 ran across a mod on some site (I thought it was WB4HFN but maybe not) where 
 the article took the 6EV7 vox tube (for the T4XB) (found it-- 
 http://www.geocities.com/maxmartin3/drake/tr4xc.html ) 
 which used simple 2N5485 and MPSA42 along with a string of 4 43v transcient 
 voltage suppressor diodes, a 12v zener and a 1N4007. My T4XB used to and 
 still eats that particular tube. 
 
 The regulator tube for the T4 was even simpler but used a 150v (I think) 
 zener diode but those are getting hard to find now but they are out there. 
 
 Anyway, there have been articles about making solid state replacements for 
 tubes. The one in QST that I mentioned above and I also remember an article 
 in Ham Radio Magazine that did the same thing but aimed at the R390 or KWM2 
 (can not remember which but a Collins radio). Those transistors were even 
 harder (for me) to find. I think the article was in the early 80's. 
 
 I purchased some blue LED builbs in #47 and #53 style holders from www. 
 superbrightleds.com ( http://www.superbrightleds.com/BA9S6_specs.htm ) in 
 their BA9 and BA7 models. The price was not bad. I think around $3 per 
 bulb but do not remember for sure. 
 
 One of the individuals ( N9OO )on this list sells a blue LED light bar for 
 the TR7 at http://home.wi.rr.com/n9oo/products/tr7lamp/d7lamp.html . 
 
 The filter material is not hard to get WA9TGT sells them ( 
 http://www.wa9tgt.com/Dial_Filter_Page.html ) and are quite cheap ($10 for 4 
 sets) so if you do not have a local source these guys can sure help you out. 
 
 I have not found a source for solid tubes or the parts to make them, at 
 least not on a reliable scale. 
 
 Thank you. 
 
 Jim Pruitt 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: neil 
 To: DrakeList 
 Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 1:45 PM 
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] WTB Solid tube solid state tubes for B and C line 
 
 
  
  neil made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
  -- 
  Jim Pruitt wrote: 
   
   Jim Pruitt made an utterance to the drakelist 
 gang 
   -- 
   I am again trying to find some solid tubes. I have seen none advertised 
 on 
   here for quite some time and wonder if anyone has any lying around that 
 they 
   would like to part with for the B or C line. 
  
  Speaking of which... I've wondered how hard it would be to make some 
  things like this (assuming, for discussion, that you could get some 
  appropriate 7 or 9 pin bases to build on)? 
  
  Diodes are obvious, and I suppose an FET could be rigged to work as a 
  triode, but how would you replace a more complex (multi-grid) tube? 
  Dual-gate mosfet or some combination of parts? 
  
  Also - anyone tried using bright blue LEDs instead of bulbs + blue 
  filters for the dial and meter illumination? My filters are shot... 
  
  Neil 
  KX2Y 
 
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Re: [drakelist] 13.6 crystal - 2.5MHz ?

[w1id]

That was also part of the old Marine band. There used to be lots of interesting ttraffic there in the old days. Some was AM and the rest USB commercial radiotelephone. Not much there now.

-- Original message -- From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang  --  Jason -   That crystal is used in the alignment of the R-4. It's specifically  called out in the procedure in the manual. Not used in any of the later  versions of the receiver.   73, Garey - K4OAH  Atlanta   Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service CDs  Jason Buchanan wrote: Jason Buchanan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang   --!
t; hi, 
I have a 13.6 mhz crystal that was in an old R-4 I bought. I'm   assuming the original owner used it for picking up 2.5MHz WWV but i'm   wondering what other possible things there are to find in that slice   of the spectrum...   There's another crystal for listening to WWV but i'd think it would be   more useful to get the crystal that is at 15mhz without having to   crank the PTO so far... I guess i'll have to scan around to listen for anything between 2.5   and 3.0mhz and 14.5 and 15mhz...--  Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net  Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body  Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message  Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sp!
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Re: [drakelist] No TR-4 Am Transmit

[w1id]

The TR-4 and T-4 share the same "type" of AM, not the same circuitry.However the 13DE7 does supply screen voltage to the finals so a bad one could be the problem.Getting back to the TR-4 in need of troubleshooting: does it work on CW as well as SSB? The carrier shift of +1kHz is the same for AM and CW so if the relay is not operating properly, there won't be a carrier getting through the X SSB position at all in either modes. Is there a marked difference in pitch as the sideband selector is switched? One of the things the old TR-4's are known for is one of the filters crapping out leaving only one good one. The carrier oscillator crystal has also been known to drift out of adjustment range with the passage of time so no amount of trimmer adjustment will bring it back to tolerance. Also remember the key has to be shorted or pulled out of the jack for AM. Having said all this, in my opiniona stockTR-4 is not plug and play nor is it a desirable rig&!
nbsp;fo
r AM. Selectivity is much too narrow for pleasant AM reception. There is a well known modification whereby an AM filter issubstituted in the CW filter position resulting in beautiful AM. I have done this to one of my TR-4's and I recommend it. The problem is you need a 3 position filter switch for this and they are not easy to come by. Plus you need to buy a filter. Modulation can be tricky to adjust without the aid of a scope or at least some kind of aural monitoring to ensure there is not too much audio distortion.However whenproperly adjusted and using a good high impedance mic, AM isn't too bad.

-- Original message -- From: "crawfish" [EMAIL PROTECTED]   "crawfish" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang  --  The 13DE7 could be a culprit. The TR-4 uses controlled carrier modulation  on AM(50 watts out). You can go to www.amwindow.org and go to Tech area and  click on Mods.Then go to T-4. The text there that the TR-4 uses the same  time of circuitry. The mod will change the modulator from controlled-carrier  to screen. Lower power, but audio will sound better.  Joe W4AAB   - Original Message -  From: "Peter Hoon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:  Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 1:33 PM  Subject: [drakelist!
] No TR
-4 Am Transmit   "Peter Hoon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang   --   Need any and all diagnostic suggestions from list members who are familiar   with the TR4. A blind ham, Max N0HU, will be bringing his TR4 with AC4 pwr supply to  our   QTH repair bench Aug 17th, with a complete set of spare tubes. Unfortunately, cannot get my hands on a readable schematic or block  diagram   until Max arrives with his printed manual (and we can enlarge the  pictorials   on a zerox machine). Max reports that he gets (what appears to him to be) normal output on SSB,   good SSB and AM receive, but no AM transmit. 1) Could it be that he misse!
d the i
nstruction from the manual that says:   "For AM operation, set function switch to X-AM position, and set sideband   switch to position X."? 2) Will test Max's AC4 power supply for ripple, correct bias and HV DC   under load. Though it seems unlikely, since SSB is working, could his AM   problem be due to AC4 not holding voltage under load (bad caps)? We have  the   AC4R recap kit from Mike, ready to install if necessary. 3) Is another likely culprit a bad screen modulator tube, 13DE7? Other   possible tube culprits to check? 4) Could you still get some SSB operation, but no AM, if one or more final   6JB6 tubes is bad? 5) Please send on other immediate (and less immediate) diagnostic hunches   to check out, so we can hit the ground running, for this lack of AM  
transmit   problem. We will report progress notes to the list as we work on the TR4 next week. Ultimately, we hope to do a complete voltage check out and alignment  check,   re-tube where necessary, since Max will be here for 3 days or so, testing   the rig, but it would be great if we could quickly solve the AM problem   straight off, which is our first concern. (We have a complete bench set up of test equipment: scope,  transconductance   tube testors, VTM, counters, dummy loads, the alignment cap and resistor   suggested in the manual, watt meters, etc. All suggestions and ideas   appreciated.) 73s, Peter, VE1CHS, Nederland, Colorado   --   Submi!
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Re: [drakelist] Progress on my R-4A.

[w1id]

Hopefully, for your sake, the passband tuning unit is not in need of alignment. I doubt very much that bad caps are to blame for your troubles that is unless you can see that some or one of them has broken off a piece. However, there are switch contacts involved in the assembly so there is a possibility that cleaning those contacts may solve the problem. I would not use DeOxit in a spray can, I'd use the other type in a bottle with an applicator. If the passband tuning knob points to the center of the semi circle in the narrow position, that would pretty much confirm the unit is aligned properly. There is some attenuation as you decrease bandwidth due to the reduction in coupling capacitance from each resonating L/C section. Since I'm not home now, I can't say how much. Also check the other positions for the same response as described for the narrow position. For me, it's best to check SSB response for the same pitch or very close to it from lower to upper. If you feel !
lucky, 
try following the procedure outlined in the manual. Perhaps the best way to describe the whole process is very touchy. Having done it successfully myself, I can only say it's not something I'd look forward to again!

-- Original message -- From: "Darwin, Keith" [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

I spent some more time with the R-4A last night. I carefullysprayed DeOxitintothe AF  RF gain pots, and the wafer switches; esp the IF bandwidth switch. The rig does work better now. Things are better now.

Unfortunately, the IF bandwidth issue is still there. A signal that is S9 in the 3 widest positions drops to about S5 or lowerin the .4 position, even when I correct the pass band tuning to peak the signal. Any ideas of what the cause may be? I'm assuming bad caps in the LC IF filter but looking at the jumble of parts around the IF bandwidth wafer switch, I'm not thrilled about trying to replace them.

- Keith KD1E -

Re: [drakelist] Smelly PS7

[w1id]

There are a couple ofadvantagesin using several small caps in parallel over a single large cap.First, equivalent series resistance is decreased and second, equivalent series inductance is likewise reduced. We do this all the time in designing DC/DC converters. Also, don't overlook the fact that modern electrolytics are much better than what was available back when the PS-7 was designed so replacing those old units is a good idea anyway. Gee I hope the old ones haven't leaked all over the inside of the power supply! While you're at it, you might as well replace the smaller electrolytic, I think it's a 1,000 uf at the output..

-- Original message -- From: "Lars E. Pettersson" [EMAIL PROTECTED]   "Lars E. Pettersson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang  --  I have had my PS7 stored, unused, in a cupboard for a while, and  recently noticed an unpleasant smell from it. I sniffed around the PS7  innards, remembering the threads last autumn about smelly power  supplies, and found the two 15000 uF capacitors to be the culprits.  Perhaps time to change them out...   Is there any reason for using two 15000 uF instead of one at, say 47000  uF (the closest to 3 uF I could find)   Anyone have the dimensions of the original 15000 uF capacitors (do not  have the PS7 available just now.)  
 I will probably go through all the electrolytic capacitors that are in  there and change them all. They are probably at the end of their years.   73 de Lars, sm6rpz  --  Lars E. Pettersson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.sm6rpz.se/  --  Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net  Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body  Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message  Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net  -- 

Re: [drakelist] Filament voltage question

[w1id]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Regardless of which type of filament it is the fact is that filament
voltage is critical for maximizing tube life. Too little is probably worse
than too much. You can try adjusting your primary line voltage to get as
close as 12.6 volts of filament voltage as possible but then you have to
take into account line voltage bounce and regulation. In this area it
varies between 115 and 122.5 volts.

 Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
 --
 Folks,
 I have read about two types of tubes: oxide cathode, and thoriated
 tungsten.  Just wondered, the 6JB6 would be oxide cathode (indirect
 heater), and the thoriated would be something like an 811 (direct heater)?
 Am I correct, or way out in left field?

 Article was in reference to heater voltage and extended tube life.  Was
 wondering if they applied to my Drake B twins.  Thanks.

 73,
 Ron


 
 Visit my astronomy home page.   http://www.dma.org/~wagner
 Amateur Radio Station: WD8SBB - Ron  and  KB8NRP - Joann
 
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Re: [drakelist] Crystal Eliminator Update?

[w1id]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
For those interested in the QST construction article, I have some info on
parts substitutions from the author as well as myself.



1) The VFD at Digi-Key is no-longer available. Substitute a Noritake
CU16025ECPB-W6J, Digi-Key 286-1019-ND.

2) PIC16F876A is easier to obtain than the non A version. The same code
works for either. The PIC Programmer has to know the difference.

3) The VCO can be bought directly from Minicircuits, (minicircuits.com).

5) Various flavors of OP-27 can be used. For example OP-27GP and OP-27EP
(I’m using this one).

6) Grayhill encoder 25LB45-Q may be difficult (or impossible) to obtain.
You can sub 25LB10-Q, 25LB15-Q, or 25LB22-Q (Digi-Key GH3073-ND).

7) The “Orion” relay should be Omron G5V-1-DC12. Also available from
Jameco as PN# 184461 for $2.25.

8) The active devices are also available from a number of vendors,
including Digi-Key. I prefer to buy parts from as few vendors as possible,
regardless of cost. That way I don’t have to keep track of multiple
orders. I won’t pay twice as much for a part but I will compromise a
little on the cost. If you’re cheap, you can shop for the lowest prices
until the end of time and never get to build the item. Sometimes you have
to fish or cut bait.



I ordered parts to build 2 synthesizers. One for the SPR-4, and the other
for occasional use with either the R-4B or R-4C receivers. As far as
enclosures are concerned, I have a couple of metal enclosures salvaged
from old disk drive enclosures I kept for just such an occasion. They only
need to accommodate a small power supply and the 9 ¼ x 3 7/8 PC board. I
will have room to spare for extras such as a line fuse, etc. Since they
are the same off-white color as the old PC’s of years gone by, I will
simply overspray with flat black and call it a day. The boards will be
assembled and tested sometime this summer when the weather outside is
poor. Otherwise, I will be outside enjoying the good weather (if any) as
much as possible  and the project will have to wait. So why order now to
build later? As stated previously, sometimes vendors tend to discontinue
parts or disappear altogether in very short order. Sometimes vendors have
limited supplies of a particular device and when it’s gone, they won’t
restock because “there’s a better part available now”. It may be “better”
but not necessarily compatible. That is the nature of business today.




 Some weeks back, there was a very brief discussion about the Drake
 Crystal Eliminator article featured in the latest issue of QST. I seem
 to remember that several critical components were no longer available,
 such as the fluorescent display module and possibly the VCO.

 Questions:
 1. Has anyone been successful in getting the parts together for this
 project?
 2. Has anyone actually built the project?
 3. Is anyone planning on building the project?

 If you have any experience with the Crystal Eliminator, I would
 appreciate hearing about your experiences.

 Best Regards;
 Gene

 W5DDW
 Gene McCalmont
 270 Oakridge Road
 Argyle Texas 76226

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[drakelist] Drake synthesizer QST article.

[w1id]

I wonder if like me, a number of people have found out some of the vital
components mentioned in the article are unobtanium. For example, the
encoder. I think I found a usable though not exact substitute at Digi-Key,
part number GH3073-ND. The VFD display is another. Again a substitute
might be Digi-Key part number 286-1019-ND but at $54.20, I'll pass and use
the lower cost and available LCD display. And I thought building this
project was going to be a slam-dunk! If anyone has encountered a similar
problem or problems and made substitutions, it would be nice to share the
info through this list. I think the synthesizer would make a real nice
addition to my SPR-4, that's why I'm considering going through this
aggravation. On another note, I wonder how long ago the article was
written. Some vendors have a habit of pulling the rug out and disappear or
discontinue parts in short order. Just like software, they like to
discontinue older, less profitable components and bring out improved
ones. If the article was written a year ago, it's possible QST held off on
publication and parts became unavailable in the meantime. I go through
this problem often. That's why we have a policy at work of NOT designing
with sole-source vendors. Of course, when the primary vendor stops making
a part, the secondary source disappears too but at least you give yourself
a chance.


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Re: [drakelist] tr4c recieve buzz

[w1id]

Of 3 AC-4 power supplies I own, one has always had excessive hum. The
previous owner told me he tried to replace the negative bias filter cap to
no avail. After looking inside, the only difference I could find was the
troublesome supply had much smaller interconnecting wires from the supply
to the TR-4. Normally you would expect something around #24 but these
looked like #28. One solution was to use a piece of braid from the supply
case to the TR-4. There was some voltage drop between the supply and
transceiver but I don't remember what it was now. Another thing you might
want to look into is perhaps borrow another supply which is known to be
good and compare the two. If you get similar results then you know it's
the TR-4. As someone else mentioned, it could be a tube. Make sure also
no-one has fooled with the AC switch wiring inside the transceiver.

 Checked  temp replaced c 145 and it still buzzing. I think
 Ive effectively ruled out the radio as the source of the ac.
 The only thing left to change in the PS is the bias supply cap.(pair of
 20uf.150v) I dont have anything close to that value small enough to fit
 under the chassis. Ill go looking around today.

 George NE2I
   - Original Message -
   From: Mark Nace
   To: George ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 7:34 AM
   Subject: Re: [drakelist] tr4c recieve buzz


   Maybe there is some heater-to-cathode ac leakage in one of the tubes.
 A quick check of all tubes on a good tube tester might show the
 culprit.  Also, a lead on the heater string may not be dressed
 properly due to previous repair, or factory QC problem.   Let us all
 know what you find.
   73,
   Mark
   N5KAE

 - Original Message -
 From: George
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 10:00 PM
 Subject: [drakelist] tr4c recieve buzz


 Well I recapped the ac3 completely and changed all the diodes.
 changed c 135 (shorted) on the audio board. Changed the audio tube 
 still buzzing away. Anything else to check?

 George NE2I



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Re: [drakelist] 4 Line Crystals

[w1id]

I think I paid around $12.00 each some three years ago at JAN Crystals.
I'm sure it costs more by now. The neat thing is they have the crystal
specs on hand and you only have to say it's for a Drake (fill in the model
number). Unfortunately you have to wait 3 - 4 weeks for delivery. On the
other hand, crystals drift off frequency with age. For example, I still
have the original 39.1mHz crystal to cover 28 28.5mHz I bought some 33
years ago directly from Drake. It's about 10kHz off now. The ones I
ordered from JAN are generally +/- 2Khz. So given the choice of old versus
new, regardless of cost, I'd go with new stock. International Crystals
also sells crystals for Drake equipment.


 I've seen comments on the list about 4 Line crystals, and recommended
 sources. I see them listed on eBay frequently.

 What do the new ones go for?

 I suspect they're custom by now, and the manufactures don't list
 prices for them.

 Thanks!
 Dan, K8WV
 
 Dan Ringer, K8WV
 Morgantown, WV 26501
 http://www.qsl.net/k8wv
 


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Re: [drakelist] Cleaner for Equipment

[w1id]

Drake front panels are not painted, they're anodized.

 The paint used on Drake front panels is pretty fragile. I'd not
 try any harsh cleaners... creme hand cleaner is gentle enough, and I've
 tried it with Drake gear with success. I'd not try Windex/Fantastik or
 other harsher chems... the paint is pretty thin!

 John K5MO


 At 12:24 PM 3/23/04 -0600, Richard Holder wrote:

I have just purchased a Drake set of rigs, R-4C, T-4XC, AC-4, MS-4, and
 FS-4.

The transmitter front is relatively clean but the receiver and
 associated  units hae been used by a heavy smoker.  There is a
 considerable difference  in color bwteen the front of the receiver and
 the transmitter.  Also the  FS-4 shows considerable smode residue on
 it.  What would the best cleaner  be?  I have used 'Fantastik' with
 good results on other equipment but how  would that affect the plastic
 on the front of the FS-4.

I think it might be a good move to clean all the wafer switches in the
 RX  and FS-4 as it has been used in a smoky environment and has been
 stored for  some years without being used at all.  Any suggestions
 would be appreciated.

73   Dick   VE4QK


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Re: [drakelist] Filter Cap on Drake R4A

[w1id]

All the transformers in my R-4 receivers get hot to the touch under normal
conditions. However, the presence of 5.2 volts of ripple indicates you may
have other problems that don't necessarily point to a bad cap. Could be a
power supply diode is bad or a tube is drawing excessive current. In the
case of a tube, I would pull them out one at at time, starting with the AF
output tube while monitoring the ripple voltage. You didn't say how you
measure the ripple voltage but I imagine you used a scope. A scope would
also tell you what kind of waveform you're getting and help point out a
diode problem.

 R4A: It appears that one or more sections of the Sangamo power supply
 filter cap are defective, since I measure 5.2 volts p - p with a scope
 at the junction of diodes D4 and D5 (156 VDC).  And my power transformer
 gets very hot.

 The cap is in a single aluminum Sangamo chassis mount with:
 100 MFD 200 VDC
 100 MFD 200 VDC
 100 MFD 200 VDC
 20 MFD 20 VDC

 1)  Anyone have a spare from an R4A they are parting out?

 2)  Suggestions for a source for this filter cap from others who have
 gone before me.

 3)  Have improvisors found discrete caps from a source (pse recommend
 one), left the chassis mount unit alone, and mounted these discrete caps
 under the chassis?

 4) Has anyone actually drilled out this filter cap shell, and mounted
 discrete components inside?

 Any other ideas or comments appreciated.

 Peter, VE1CHS

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RE: [drakelist]forget the E tax, worry about TIA!

[w1id]

The sky is not falling. I think we should get our facts straight before
running off cliffs. The email tax story was an idea put forth by the
United Nations to help undeveloped nations with revenues. Their words
and ideas, not mine. So it has nothing to do with the US. Furthermore, the
UN has since distanced itself from that statement by declaring they have
no mandate to do so. They thankfully don't have the authority. I got this
info by searching the Fox News website. It has nothing to do with Drake.
Besides it was under Politics, not a very good word in my opinion.
Certainly not one I like to mention in front of polite company. I'm saying
this even though every four years in NH we make a lot of money off
national politicians. They're not very smart and like to spend lots of
money. We love money. I like to think of more pleasant subjects. For
example, right now I'm thinking of putting up a 75 meter dipole in the
trees in my backyard tomorrow and getting on the air with my TR-7 by
tomorrow night. It will have a feed system consisting of a half wave of 50
Ohm coax followed by a quarter wave stub of 75 Ohm coax and then any
random length of 50 Ohm coax to the station. This will broadband the
antenna a bit and improve the match. I know it should work because I
modeled it on 10 meters this summer. Now I'm ready for the big time.

 I would be much more concerned about TIA than any taxes!  TIA in
 conjunction with Patriot Act 1/2 is really dangerous stuff.  Our E mail
 will be monitored by the administration, as will all our purchases,
 money transactions and anything else electronic they can get into.  Then
 once determined to be a 'questionable'; you may be brought into custody
 with no rights to an attorney or for that matter any due process what so
 ever and held indefinitely.   Scary stuff

 Bruce K1XR


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 2:07 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [drakelist] E-mail Tax???

 Don't throw out those old TNC's yet.
 Today, on Fox News, it was reported that the Internet Freedom Act
 expires Friday and Congress has to vote on it again before it sunsets. A
 few of the members of Congress have stated that they will try to pass
 law to tax E-mail.
 Now, I know that this was a joke a few years ago and was posted on
 reflectors at that time.
 It is now reality or so Fox News reports.
 It seems any idea a man can come up with Uncle Sam will tax.
 Please keep up with this since it could have a very serious consequence
 to this and all other Amateur Radio List.
 Dan N4VET



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[drakelist] Ultimate Drake CW station: corrections

[w1id]

CORRECTION: The B line does not have 4 pole crystal filters built-in. It
has as single 8kHz (more or less)crystal filter in the front end. The
bandwidths in the R-4/A/B is provided by a single L/C filter arrangement
through switching of coupling and padding capacitors to increase or
increase selectivity as needed. The same arrangement appears in the 2-B/C
receivers as well as the SPR-4. While not as selective as selective as the
R-4C, selectivity is nevertheless adequate for most casual CW operation.

The R-4C front end filter is not too broad as it is designed to provide
sufficient bandwidths for proper operation of the noise blanker and
passband tuner. If you narrow front end selectivity then the noise blanker
becomes less effective and passband tuning becomes restricted. Yes you can
narrow front end selectivity but there is no free lunch.

Summary: as far as selectivity is concerned the B line is adequate but the
C line has the potential to outperform the B line.

There are other things to consider when choosing. If possible, get a copy
of the C line reviews in QST which gives a good overall, if not
technically thorough overview of features. Stay away from the so-called
Drake Mods widely available on the web as it is not technically
accurate. Sections of it are riddled with technically inaccurate
conclusions and inaccuracies. Unfortunately they were included in the 
Drake a Family Affair book. The author of the book wanted to correct
some of the errors but the author of the mods would only allow publication
of his work without editing. Thus myths prevail. Makes great rading
though.


 Well, the C line is superior in selectivity, but mostly if it has been
 modified, the first IF is too broad...

..there are mods to
 improve audio and  other areas, the C line had separate xtal filters
 available where the B is  four pole xtal filters and are built
 in...filters are not cheap, INRAD has  them but there around $100 each
 or so.  The B line is still my favorite...  73   Tim K8WBL




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