Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-11 Thread Steve Wedge

Yep - wound up being lucky this time - didn't even have to buy another tube!

Someone else had mentioned the Sherwood audio amp, and this particular R-4C 
has that mod.  Overall, it sounds good now.



Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 11:20 AM
To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com; Randy WB4SPB 
wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion


Steve -

Yes, the tube noise only seems to be a problem in the 3rd Mixer, and 
'noisy' tubes can often be used in the IF with no problem.  I guess it has 
something to do with the way the stages are biased, but I've never really 
investigated it.  I'm lazy, I'll just select a good tube, and it usually 
outlasts the radio.


I've had a couple (three?) guys who doubted me on this, and all three 
replaced every component in the AF Output stage.   All three 
eventually ended up selecting a 6EH5!  :-)   It's a tough sell, cause 'I 
put in a NEW tube'..  :-)


It's kinda like the IDLE current in a PA.  If the supply voltages are 
there, the PA tubes WILL draw current.  The only question is how much, and 
there you have an adjustable bias to take care of minor differences.


Except in this case you don't have 'easily' adjustable bias.  If you have 
the right cathode resistor, and the voltages are present, the tube WILL 
draw ~30 mA.  However, (there's always a however',) when the tube gets 
_hot_  if the grid starts emitting electrons, or there are gas particles 
in the 'vacuum', the 'natural order of things' is screwed up and the tube 
starts drawing a little more current.  Which gets a little more grid 
current, which gets the tube a little hotter, which 


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Steve Wedge wrote:
I just wound up fixing an R-4C - and one of the things I did was to swap 
V4 and V6.


That single exchange did more to reduce the noise in the receiver than 
anyting else I could have done.  I did go on and convert the third mixer 
to cathode-feed, and that improved things a bit more, but you're on to 
something with respect to the audio output.


OTOH, I still sit here and wonder.  At audio frequencies, is everything 
as designed by Drake really that critical?  It might be a good time to 
replace components to find out...


Yeah - I'm a troublemaker...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion



Mike -

I think the problem is that 'new' tubes are 50 years old..  Even a few 
molecules of air a day adds up after that long.  When Drake assembled 
the radios, the tubes were _really_ new!!   The 6EH5 gets 'really' hot 
in normal operation, and perhaps the heat/cool cycles are harder on the 
metal/glass seals at the pins.  Some tubes definitely are more prone to 
'gas' (grid emission), the 12BA6 comes to mind.  That one shows as a 
'drifting' S-Meter as the tubes heat up.  The 6EJ7 is prone to noise in 
3rd Mixer service, probably for a similar reason.  The only answer I 
have come up with is to keep trying tubes until you get a 'good' one.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike Bryce wrote:

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours 
tubes per radio to get one that worked correctly?


dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that 
the subing out the tube fixed the problem, I wonder if there is 
something hidden down someplace in the design that causes the problem


just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 
6EH5, so, considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  If 
I count the 6CA5 that I bought, I had to try four to get one.
The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and 
refer you to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem 
was a 6CA5 that had been in the radio for many years before these 
symptoms appeared.
Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot 
say. I'll stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For 
sources I've seen that have both, the price is the same.

73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message -
*From:*Al Al

Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-10 Thread kc9cdt

Steve,
If you haven't, take a look at wgar Rob Sherwood did on the audio for 
the R-4C.

Got rid of all that heat...that also causes  some drift.
I turn mine on and after a very short time it just stay on freq.
73,
Lee

-Original Message-
From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
To: k4oah k4...@mindspring.com; Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist 
drakelist@zerobeat.net

Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2012 11:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion


I just wound up fixing an R-4C - and one of the things I did was to 
swap V4

and V6.

That single exchange did more to reduce the noise in the receiver than
anyting else I could have done.  I did go on and convert the third 
mixer to

cathode-feed, and that improved things a bit more, but you're on to
something with respect to the audio output.

OTOH, I still sit here and wonder.  At audio frequencies, is everything 
as
designed by Drake really that critical?  It might be a good time to 
replace

components to find out...

Yeah - I'm a troublemaker...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message -
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion



Mike -

I think the problem is that 'new' tubes are 50 years old..  Even a 

few
molecules of air a day adds up after that long.  When Drake assembled 

the

radios, the tubes were _really_ new!!   The 6EH5 gets 'really' hot in
normal operation, and perhaps the heat/cool cycles are harder on the
metal/glass seals at the pins.  Some tubes definitely are more prone 

to

'gas' (grid emission), the 12BA6 comes to mind.  That one shows as a
'drifting' S-Meter as the tubes heat up.  The 6EJ7 is prone to noise 

in
3rd Mixer service, probably for a similar reason.  The only answer I 

have

come up with is to keep trying tubes until you get a 'good' one.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike Bryce wrote:

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours 

tubes

per radio to get one that worked correctly?

dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact 

that the
subing out the tube fixed the problem, I wonder if there is 

something

hidden down someplace in the design that causes the problem

just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:


Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare
6EH5, so, considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  

If I

count the 6CA5 that I bought, I had to try four to get one.
The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 

and
refer you to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem 

was
a 6CA5 that had been in the radio for many years before these 

symptoms

appeared.
Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot 

say.
I'll stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For 

sources

I've seen that have both, the price is the same.
73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message -
*From:*Al Al mailto:wenj...@gmail.com

Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go 

through to

find a good one?

Al, n7ioh
Payson, Arizona, USA

_


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-10 Thread Garey Barrell

Steve -

Yes, the tube noise only seems to be a problem in the 3rd Mixer, and 'noisy' tubes can often be used 
in the IF with no problem.  I guess it has something to do with the way the stages are biased, but 
I've never really investigated it.  I'm lazy, I'll just select a good tube, and it usually outlasts 
the radio.


I've had a couple (three?) guys who doubted me on this, and all three replaced every component in 
the AF Output stage.   All three eventually ended up selecting a 6EH5!  :-)   It's a tough sell, 
cause 'I put in a NEW tube'..  :-)


It's kinda like the IDLE current in a PA.  If the supply voltages are there, the PA tubes WILL draw 
current.  The only question is how much, and there you have an adjustable bias to take care of minor 
differences.


Except in this case you don't have 'easily' adjustable bias.  If you have the right cathode 
resistor, and the voltages are present, the tube WILL draw ~30 mA.  However, (there's always a 
however',) when the tube gets  _hot_  if the grid starts emitting electrons, or there are gas 
particles in the 'vacuum', the 'natural order of things' is screwed up and the tube starts drawing a 
little more current.  Which gets a little more grid current, which gets the tube a little hotter, 
which 


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Steve Wedge wrote:

I just wound up fixing an R-4C - and one of the things I did was to swap V4 and 
V6.

That single exchange did more to reduce the noise in the receiver than anyting else I could have 
done.  I did go on and convert the third mixer to cathode-feed, and that improved things a bit 
more, but you're on to something with respect to the audio output.


OTOH, I still sit here and wonder.  At audio frequencies, is everything as designed by Drake 
really that critical?  It might be a good time to replace components to find out...


Yeah - I'm a troublemaker...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion



Mike -

I think the problem is that 'new' tubes are 50 years old..  Even a few molecules of air a day 
adds up after that long.  When Drake assembled the radios, the tubes were _really_ new!!   The 
6EH5 gets 'really' hot in normal operation, and perhaps the heat/cool cycles are harder on the 
metal/glass seals at the pins.  Some tubes definitely are more prone to 'gas' (grid emission), 
the 12BA6 comes to mind.  That one shows as a 'drifting' S-Meter as the tubes heat up.  The 6EJ7 
is prone to noise in 3rd Mixer service, probably for a similar reason.  The only answer I have 
come up with is to keep trying tubes until you get a 'good' one.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike Bryce wrote:

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours tubes per radio to get one 
that worked correctly?


dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that the subing out the tube 
fixed the problem, I wonder if there is something hidden down someplace in the design that 
causes the problem


just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 6EH5, so, considering those 
alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I count the 6CA5 that I bought, I had to try four to 
get one.
The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and refer you to 6CA5.  The 
tube that originally manifested the problem was a 6CA5 that had been in the radio for many 
years before these symptoms appeared.
Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say. I'll stick with 6EH5s 
in the future, while I can get them.  For sources I've seen that have both, the price is the same.

73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message -
*From:*Al Al mailto:wenj...@gmail.com

Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a 
good one?

Al, n7ioh
Payson, Arizona, USA



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Randy WB4SPB

Update:  resolved, and another gold star for Garey

In early February, I asked for ideas after finding my R4B audio output stage 
running hot.  Positive bias, climbing slowly to +3, would mysteriously 
appear on the grid after a few minutes of operation, and the audio became 
distorted.  Cooling the tube with forced air mitigated the problem, reducing 
but not eliminating the weird grid bias.  I could find no defective 
components (leaking caps, thermally-misbehaving cathode resistor, etc.) and 
had tried three different tubes that behaved the same way.


Richard WB6KBL suggested I look for some way that screen voltage might be 
leaking to the adjacent grid pin on the socket.  I could find nothing by 
inspection, and cleaning made no difference.  I began a half-hearted search 
through my junk box for a replacement socket, but didn't end up going that 
way.


Garey K4OAH thought the symptoms clearly suggested a gassy tube.  I was 
skeptical, having tried several different tubes, both 6EH5 and 6CA5, all of 
which tested OK (and not gassy) on a borrowed Hickok 600A tester.  Garey 
pointed out that 6CA5 is not an exact replacement and that in his experience 
it has sometimes been necessary to go through several 6EH5s to find a good 
one.


So I decided it was cheap enough, at $3 each from most sources, to obtain a 
couple more tubes and see what happened.  I've finally done that, and, lo, 
it appears Garey was correct.  One (and only one) of my new tubes behaves 
properly.


Of course (sigh) the R4B has now gone of the rails for some entirely new 
reason, but I'll open it up soon and see what's what.


73, and thanks for the help.

Randy WB4SPB


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Al Al
Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a
good one?

Al, n7ioh
Payson, Arizona, USA


On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 11:24 AM, Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Update:  resolved, and another gold star for Garey

 In early February, I asked for ideas after finding my R4B audio output
 stage running hot.  Positive bias, climbing slowly to +3, would
 mysteriously appear on the grid after a few minutes of operation, and the
 audio became distorted.  Cooling the tube with forced air mitigated the
 problem, reducing but not eliminating the weird grid bias.  I could find no
 defective components (leaking caps, thermally-misbehaving cathode resistor,
 etc.) and had tried three different tubes that behaved the same way.

 Richard WB6KBL suggested I look for some way that screen voltage might be
 leaking to the adjacent grid pin on the socket.  I could find nothing by
 inspection, and cleaning made no difference.  I began a half-hearted search
 through my junk box for a replacement socket, but didn't end up going that
 way.

 Garey K4OAH thought the symptoms clearly suggested a gassy tube.  I was
 skeptical, having tried several different tubes, both 6EH5 and 6CA5, all of
 which tested OK (and not gassy) on a borrowed Hickok 600A tester.  Garey
 pointed out that 6CA5 is not an exact replacement and that in his
 experience it has sometimes been necessary to go through several 6EH5s to
 find a good one.

 So I decided it was cheap enough, at $3 each from most sources, to obtain
 a couple more tubes and see what happened.  I've finally done that, and,
 lo, it appears Garey was correct.  One (and only one) of my new tubes
 behaves properly.

 Of course (sigh) the R4B has now gone of the rails for some entirely new
 reason, but I'll open it up soon and see what's what.

 73, and thanks for the help.

 Randy WB4SPB


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread kc9cdt

Randy,
Great news!
Glad it is resolved...I'll keep that one in mind for future bugs.

One more GOLD star for Garey is right! He is super and If he actually 
had a gold start for all of the things he has helped us with...it would 
take a very large wall indeed to display them!



73,
Lee



-Original Message-
From: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2012 1:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion


Update:  resolved, and another gold star for Garey

In early February, I asked for ideas after finding my R4B audio output 
stage

running hot.  Positive bias, climbing slowly to +3, would mysteriously
appear on the grid after a few minutes of operation, and the audio 
became
distorted.  Cooling the tube with forced air mitigated the problem, 
reducing

but not eliminating the weird grid bias.  I could find no defective
components (leaking caps, thermally-misbehaving cathode resistor, etc.) 
and

had tried three different tubes that behaved the same way.

Richard WB6KBL suggested I look for some way that screen voltage might 
be
leaking to the adjacent grid pin on the socket.  I could find nothing 
by
inspection, and cleaning made no difference.  I began a half-hearted 
search
through my junk box for a replacement socket, but didn't end up going 
that

way.

Garey K4OAH thought the symptoms clearly suggested a gassy tube.  I was
skeptical, having tried several different tubes, both 6EH5 and 6CA5, 
all of
which tested OK (and not gassy) on a borrowed Hickok 600A tester.  
Garey
pointed out that 6CA5 is not an exact replacement and that in his 
experience
it has sometimes been necessary to go through several 6EH5s to find a 
good

one.

So I decided it was cheap enough, at $3 each from most sources, to 
obtain a
couple more tubes and see what happened.  I've finally done that, and, 
lo,
it appears Garey was correct.  One (and only one) of my new tubes 
behaves

properly.

Of course (sigh) the R4B has now gone of the rails for some entirely 
new

reason, but I'll open it up soon and see what's what.

73, and thanks for the help.

Randy WB4SPB


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Randy WB4SPB
Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 6EH5, so, 
considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I count the 6CA5 
that I bought, I had to try four to get one.

The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and refer you 
to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem was a 6CA5 that had 
been in the radio for many years before these symptoms appeared.

Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say.  I'll 
stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For sources I've seen 
that have both, the price is the same.

73,

Randy WB4SPB

  - Original Message - 
  From: Al Al 


  Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a 
good one? 

  Al, n7ioh
  Payson, Arizona, USA

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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Mike Bryce
I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours tubes per 
radio to get one that worked correctly?

dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that the 
subing out the tube fixed the problem, I wonder if there is something hidden 
down someplace in the design that causes the problem

just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

 Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 6EH5, so, 
 considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I count the 6CA5 
 that I bought, I had to try four to get one.
  
 The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and refer 
 you to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem was a 6CA5 that 
 had been in the radio for many years before these symptoms appeared.
  
 Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say.  
 I'll stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For sources I've 
 seen that have both, the price is the same.
  
 73,
  
 Randy WB4SPB
  
 - Original Message -
 From: Al Al
 
 Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a 
 good one? 
 
 Al, n7ioh
 Payson, Arizona, USA
 
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Garey Barrell

Mike -

I think the problem is that 'new' tubes are 50 years old..  Even a few molecules of air a day adds 
up after that long.  When Drake assembled the radios, the tubes were _really_ new!!   The 6EH5 gets 
'really' hot in normal operation, and perhaps the heat/cool cycles are harder on the metal/glass 
seals at the pins.  Some tubes definitely are more prone to 'gas' (grid emission), the 12BA6 comes 
to mind.  That one shows as a 'drifting' S-Meter as the tubes heat up.  The 6EJ7 is prone to noise 
in 3rd Mixer service, probably for a similar reason.  The only answer I have come up with is to keep 
trying tubes until you get a 'good' one.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike Bryce wrote:

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours tubes per radio to get one 
that worked correctly?


dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that the subing out the tube 
fixed the problem, I wonder if there is something hidden down someplace in the design that causes 
the problem


just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 6EH5, so, considering those 
alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I count the 6CA5 that I bought, I had to try four to 
get one.
The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and refer you to 
6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem was a 6CA5 that had been in the radio for 
many years before these symptoms appeared.
Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say.  I'll stick with 6EH5s 
in the future, while I can get them.  For sources I've seen that have both, the price is the same.

73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message -
*From:*Al Al mailto:wenj...@gmail.com

Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a 
good one?

Al, n7ioh
Payson, Arizona, USA

_


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

2012-03-09 Thread Steve Wedge
I just wound up fixing an R-4C - and one of the things I did was to swap V4 
and V6.


That single exchange did more to reduce the noise in the receiver than 
anyting else I could have done.  I did go on and convert the third mixer to 
cathode-feed, and that improved things a bit more, but you're on to 
something with respect to the audio output.


OTOH, I still sit here and wonder.  At audio frequencies, is everything as 
designed by Drake really that critical?  It might be a good time to replace 
components to find out...


Yeah - I'm a troublemaker...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com

To: Mike Bryce proso...@sssnet.com
Cc: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion



Mike -

I think the problem is that 'new' tubes are 50 years old..  Even a few 
molecules of air a day adds up after that long.  When Drake assembled the 
radios, the tubes were _really_ new!!   The 6EH5 gets 'really' hot in 
normal operation, and perhaps the heat/cool cycles are harder on the 
metal/glass seals at the pins.  Some tubes definitely are more prone to 
'gas' (grid emission), the 12BA6 comes to mind.  That one shows as a 
'drifting' S-Meter as the tubes heat up.  The 6EJ7 is prone to noise in 
3rd Mixer service, probably for a similar reason.  The only answer I have 
come up with is to keep trying tubes until you get a 'good' one.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike Bryce wrote:

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours tubes 
per radio to get one that worked correctly?


dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that the 
subing out the tube fixed the problem, I wonder if there is something 
hidden down someplace in the design that causes the problem


just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 
6EH5, so, considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I 
count the 6CA5 that I bought, I had to try four to get one.
The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and 
refer you to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem was 
a 6CA5 that had been in the radio for many years before these symptoms 
appeared.
Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say. 
I'll stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For sources 
I've seen that have both, the price is the same.

73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message -
*From:*Al Al mailto:wenj...@gmail.com

Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to 
find a good one?


Al, n7ioh
Payson, Arizona, USA

_


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Randy WB4SPB
Thanks Richard and Evan.  I'll give more thought to the socket itself.

73,

Randy WB4SPB
  - Original Message - 
  From: K9sqg 
  To: 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com ; wb4...@earthlink.net ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 10:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion


  Here is where a can of freeze spray can sometimes serve to help with 
diagnostics.  I serviced a Collins 516F2 power supply used with a KWM-2 and 
found that the molded socket for one of the rectifiers had an internal short 
that could not be seen from the outside.



  -Original Message-
  From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com
  To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Sent: Fri, Feb 10, 2012 12:27 am
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion


 A look at the schematic indicates that you have hit all 
the usual suspects. So, what else could cause the control 
grid voltage to go positive?  I wonder if the tube socket is 
leaky. Even if the tube is on an extender it might be the 
socket. It might be something on the surface of the socket 
between pins. Pin 6 is the screen grid so leakage from that 
could cause the problem. Check the socket for carbon tracks 
or anything on the surface. Clean it thoroughly with dry 
alcohol. Temperature might make a difference if there is 
either a carbon track or something else there.
 Perhaps far fetched but easy enough to do and worth a 
try. If cleaning makes a difference but does not cure the 
problem a new socket might be in order.


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Garey Barrell

Randy -

Sounds like a classic case of a 'gassy' (grid emission) tube.  Replace it!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Randy WB4SPB wrote:

Hi folks,

I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's.  From about 1985 until 2000,
it was stored while I got busy with job/family.  I used it again for several
months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything unusual.  Now I am
active again and want to use it full time, but I am hearing audio distortion
after about 5 minutes of operation.

Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher voltage than
expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is expected.  Coupling
cap C185?  No, lift one side, and no change.  R154 has the correct value.
Cathode resistor?  R44 has the correct value, and I tried a different one
anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change.  I've replaced
C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), no difference.

I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, but voltages and
ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit (e.g. 7mv at C90A,
and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C).

At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode voltage nominal.
As time goes on, these creep slowly upward.  After 5-6 minutes, the grid is
approaching 3V.

30 seconds after power up:

V7 pin 1:   4.8
  pin 2,5: .006
  pin 6:   134
  pin 7:   146

5-6 minutes after power up:

V7 pin 1:   6.2
  pin 2,5: 2.9
  pin 6:   129
  pin 7:   139

I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little.  If they were a
little high to begin with, it may be because my line voltage is sometimes a
bit high:  I measured 122VAC today.  I presume the drop in these values
reflects increased current through V7.  I get the same basic behavior when
I have the receiver on a variac and control the line voltage to something
less than 120VAC.

The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but it becomes harsh
sounding at some point.  I don't know what the output waveform looks like.

So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked around, I put a
fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode voltages started
to drop.  The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy amount of forced
air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good.  Conductive socket material when
hot?  I don't think so:  I put the tube on a 1.5-inch extender to reduce
heat at the socket, with no change in behavior.  Bad tube?  No, two others
behave the same way.

I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, some on this list.
None seem helpful.  I'm stumped... any ideas?

Thanks and 73,

Randy WB4SPB




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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Randy WB4SPB
Thanks Garey.  I have tried 3 tubes altogether, including my own spare and a 
second I purchased online.  The original is a 6EH5, the spares were 6CA5.  I 
believe (hope) there is no material difference.  All behave the same way.


The one I ordered turned out not to be a new tube by any stretch of the 
imagination.  Where do you like to buy tubes?


73,
Randy WB4SPB


- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com

To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion



Randy -

Sounds like a classic case of a 'gassy' (grid emission) tube.  Replace it!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Garey Barrell

Randy -

OK.  Well not all 'new' tubes are 'good'.  That circuit is very straightforward, and should have 
4.5V on the cathode with a 120 ohm cathode resistor.  (4.5 / 120 = 37.5 mA) which is the specified 
operating point for the 6EH5 in Class A service.   So if you put 140 VDC on the Plate, slightly less 
on the Screen, and ground the Grid via ~ 500k ohms, the tube should idle at 37.5 mA.  The only 
external thing that can affect this is if a DC bias is applied to the Grid.  One possible source is 
a leaky coupling capacitor (C185) putting a small DC bias on the grid.  The only internal source of 
trouble is grid emission or gas.  Grid emission is when small particles of cathode material flake 
off and stick to the grid and continue emitting, driving the grid positive.  This causes the tube to 
draw more than it's idle current, heating it up, which heats the grid further, which causes it to 
emit more, which ...   You get the idea.   The problem presents as essentially normal operation to 
start, then the grid heats up and starts emitting, shifting the bias, etc...  Since this is a 
Class A amplifier, the idle current should not change when the stage is driven, so the voltage on 
the Cathode should stay at 4.5 VDC for the constant 37.5 mA cathode current.


The 6CA5 is close, but not an identical tube.  It's designed for a slightly lower operating current, 
but 37.5 is still within it's range.  You could try raising R44 to 150 ohms with a 6CA5, but I don't 
think that's the problem.


I know that sometimes I have to go through 3-4 'new' 6EH5s to find a 'good' one.  Almost as 
susceptible to this malady as the 12BA6s.


I get tubes wherever I can find them!  :-)   Antique Electronic Supply is a good reliable source, 
although a little higher in price.  N9TEW is another one.  Vacuumtubes.net is good.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Randy WB4SPB wrote:
Thanks Garey.  I have tried 3 tubes altogether, including my own spare and a second I purchased 
online.  The original is a 6EH5, the spares were 6CA5.  I believe (hope) there is no material 
difference.  All behave the same way.


The one I ordered turned out not to be a new tube by any stretch of the imagination.  Where do you 
like to buy tubes?


73,
Randy WB4SPB


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion



Randy -

Sounds like a classic case of a 'gassy' (grid emission) tube.  Replace it!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com





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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Ron
Randy,
I have had excellent luck with 
www.radiotubesupply.com/
Roy seems to know his business and has always had prices in line with the 
market.  I have purchased used tubes from him when availability or price was 
way out of line.  I have always been pleased.

73,
Ron WD8SBB 

--- On Fri, 2/10/12, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote:

 From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion
 To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Friday, February 10, 2012, 2:54 PM
 Randy -
 
 OK.  Well not all 'new' tubes are 'good'.  That
 circuit is very straightforward, and should have 4.5V on the
 cathode with a 120 ohm cathode resistor.  (4.5 / 120 =
 37.5 mA) which is the specified operating point for the 6EH5
 in Class A service.   So if you put 140 VDC
 on the Plate, slightly less on the Screen, and ground the
 Grid via ~ 500k ohms, the tube should idle at 37.5 mA. 
 The only external thing that can affect this is if a DC bias
 is applied to the Grid.  One possible source is a leaky
 coupling capacitor (C185) putting a small DC bias on the
 grid.  The only internal source of trouble is grid
 emission or gas.  Grid emission is when small particles
 of cathode material flake off and stick to the grid and
 continue emitting, driving the grid positive.  This
 causes the tube to draw more than it's idle current, heating
 it up, which heats the grid further, which causes it to emit
 more, which ...   You get the
 idea.   The problem presents as essentially
 normal operation to start, then the grid heats up and starts
 emitting, shifting the bias, etc...  Since this is
 a Class A amplifier, the idle current should not change when
 the stage is driven, so the voltage on the Cathode should
 stay at 4.5 VDC for the constant 37.5 mA cathode current.
 
 The 6CA5 is close, but not an identical tube.  It's
 designed for a slightly lower operating current, but 37.5 is
 still within it's range.  You could try raising R44 to
 150 ohms with a 6CA5, but I don't think that's the problem.
 
 I know that sometimes I have to go through 3-4 'new' 6EH5s
 to find a 'good' one.  Almost as susceptible to this
 malady as the 12BA6s.
 
 I get tubes wherever I can find them! 
 :-)   Antique Electronic Supply is a good
 reliable source, although a little higher in price. 
 N9TEW is another one.  Vacuumtubes.net is good.
 
 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA
 
 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
 and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com
 
 
 Randy WB4SPB wrote:
  Thanks Garey.  I have tried 3 tubes altogether,
 including my own spare and a second I purchased
 online.  The original is a 6EH5, the spares were
 6CA5.  I believe (hope) there is no material
 difference.  All behave the same way.
  
  The one I ordered turned out not to be a new tube by
 any stretch of the imagination.  Where do you like to
 buy tubes?
  
  73,
  Randy WB4SPB
  
  
  - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell
 k4...@mindspring.com
  To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
  Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 5:30 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion
  
  
  Randy -
  
  Sounds like a classic case of a 'gassy' (grid
 emission) tube.  Replace it!
  
  73, Garey - K4OAH
  Glen Allen, VA
  
  Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
  and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
  www.k4oah.com
  
  
 
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 Drakelist@zerobeat.net
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-10 Thread Randy WB4SPB

Thanks Ron and Garey.

73,
Randy WB4SPB

- Original Message - 
From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com

To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion


Randy,
I have had excellent luck with
www.radiotubesupply.com/
Roy seems to know his business and has always had prices in line with the 
market.  I have purchased used tubes from him when availability or price was 
way out of line.  I have always been pleased.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Fri, 2/10/12, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote:


From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion
To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Friday, February 10, 2012, 2:54 PM
Randy -

...

I get tubes wherever I can find them!
:-) Antique Electronic Supply is a good
reliable source, although a little higher in price.
N9TEW is another one. Vacuumtubes.net is good.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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[Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-09 Thread Randy WB4SPB

Hi folks,

I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's.  From about 1985 until 2000,
it was stored while I got busy with job/family.  I used it again for several
months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything unusual.  Now I am
active again and want to use it full time, but I am hearing audio distortion
after about 5 minutes of operation.

Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher voltage than
expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is expected.  Coupling
cap C185?  No, lift one side, and no change.  R154 has the correct value.
Cathode resistor?  R44 has the correct value, and I tried a different one
anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change.  I've replaced
C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), no difference.

I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, but voltages and
ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit (e.g. 7mv at C90A,
and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C).

At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode voltage nominal.
As time goes on, these creep slowly upward.  After 5-6 minutes, the grid is
approaching 3V.

30 seconds after power up:

V7 pin 1:   4.8
  pin 2,5: .006
  pin 6:   134
  pin 7:   146

5-6 minutes after power up:

V7 pin 1:   6.2
  pin 2,5: 2.9
  pin 6:   129
  pin 7:   139

I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little.  If they were a
little high to begin with, it may be because my line voltage is sometimes a
bit high:  I measured 122VAC today.  I presume the drop in these values
reflects increased current through V7.  I get the same basic behavior when
I have the receiver on a variac and control the line voltage to something
less than 120VAC.

The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but it becomes harsh
sounding at some point.  I don't know what the output waveform looks like.

So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked around, I put a
fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode voltages started
to drop.  The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy amount of forced
air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good.  Conductive socket material when
hot?  I don't think so:  I put the tube on a 1.5-inch extender to reduce
heat at the socket, with no change in behavior.  Bad tube?  No, two others
behave the same way.

I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, some on this list.
None seem helpful.  I'm stumped... any ideas?

Thanks and 73,

Randy WB4SPB



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-09 Thread Richard Knoppow
A look at the schematic indicates that you have hit all 
the usual suspects. So, what else could cause the control 
grid voltage to go positive?  I wonder if the tube socket is 
leaky. Even if the tube is on an extender it might be the 
socket. It might be something on the surface of the socket 
between pins. Pin 6 is the screen grid so leakage from that 
could cause the problem. Check the socket for carbon tracks 
or anything on the surface. Clean it thoroughly with dry 
alcohol. Temperature might make a difference if there is 
either a carbon track or something else there.
Perhaps far fetched but easy enough to do and worth a 
try. If cleaning makes a difference but does not cure the 
problem a new socket might be in order.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


- Original Message - 
From: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 8:53 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion



Hi folks,

I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's.  From about 
1985 until 2000,
it was stored while I got busy with job/family.  I used it 
again for several
months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything 
unusual.  Now I am
active again and want to use it full time, but I am 
hearing audio distortion

after about 5 minutes of operation.

Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher 
voltage than
expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is 
expected.  Coupling
cap C185?  No, lift one side, and no change.  R154 has the 
correct value.
Cathode resistor?  R44 has the correct value, and I tried 
a different one
anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change. 
I've replaced
C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), 
no difference.


I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, 
but voltages and
ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit 
(e.g. 7mv at C90A,

and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C).

At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode 
voltage nominal.
As time goes on, these creep slowly upward.  After 5-6 
minutes, the grid is

approaching 3V.

30 seconds after power up:

V7 pin 1:   4.8
  pin 2,5: .006
  pin 6:   134
  pin 7:   146

5-6 minutes after power up:

V7 pin 1:   6.2
  pin 2,5: 2.9
  pin 6:   129
  pin 7:   139

I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little. 
If they were a
little high to begin with, it may be because my line 
voltage is sometimes a
bit high:  I measured 122VAC today.  I presume the drop in 
these values
reflects increased current through V7.  I get the same 
basic behavior when
I have the receiver on a variac and control the line 
voltage to something

less than 120VAC.

The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but 
it becomes harsh
sounding at some point.  I don't know what the output 
waveform looks like.


So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked 
around, I put a
fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode 
voltages started
to drop.  The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy 
amount of forced
air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good.  Conductive 
socket material when
hot?  I don't think so:  I put the tube on a 1.5-inch 
extender to reduce
heat at the socket, with no change in behavior.  Bad tube? 
No, two others

behave the same way.

I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, 
some on this list.

None seem helpful.  I'm stumped... any ideas?

Thanks and 73,

Randy WB4SPB



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion

2012-02-09 Thread K9sqg
Here is where a can of freeze spray can sometimes serve to help with 
diagnostics.  I serviced a Collins 516F2 power supply used with a KWM-2 and 
found that the molded socket for one of the rectifiers had an internal short 
that could not be seen from the outside.



-Original Message-
From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com
To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Feb 10, 2012 12:27 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion


 A look at the schematic indicates that you have hit all 
the usual suspects. So, what else could cause the control 
grid voltage to go positive?  I wonder if the tube socket is 
leaky. Even if the tube is on an extender it might be the 
socket. It might be something on the surface of the socket 
between pins. Pin 6 is the screen grid so leakage from that 
could cause the problem. Check the socket for carbon tracks 
or anything on the surface. Clean it thoroughly with dry 
alcohol. Temperature might make a difference if there is 
either a carbon track or something else there.
 Perhaps far fetched but easy enough to do and worth a 
try. If cleaning makes a difference but does not cure the 
problem a new socket might be in order.


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


- Original Message - 
From: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 8:53 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion


 Hi folks,

 I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's.  From about 
 1985 until 2000,
 it was stored while I got busy with job/family.  I used it 
 again for several
 months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything 
 unusual.  Now I am
 active again and want to use it full time, but I am 
 hearing audio distortion
 after about 5 minutes of operation.

 Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher 
 voltage than
 expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is 
 expected.  Coupling
 cap C185?  No, lift one side, and no change.  R154 has the 
 correct value.
 Cathode resistor?  R44 has the correct value, and I tried 
 a different one
 anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change. 
 I've replaced
 C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), 
 no difference.

 I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, 
 but voltages and
 ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit 
 (e.g. 7mv at C90A,
 and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C).

 At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode 
 voltage nominal.
 As time goes on, these creep slowly upward.  After 5-6 
 minutes, the grid is
 approaching 3V.

 30 seconds after power up:

 V7 pin 1:   4.8
   pin 2,5: .006
   pin 6:   134
   pin 7:   146

 5-6 minutes after power up:

 V7 pin 1:   6.2
   pin 2,5: 2.9
   pin 6:   129
   pin 7:   139

 I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little. 
 If they were a
 little high to begin with, it may be because my line 
 voltage is sometimes a
 bit high:  I measured 122VAC today.  I presume the drop in 
 these values
 reflects increased current through V7.  I get the same 
 basic behavior when
 I have the receiver on a variac and control the line 
 voltage to something
 less than 120VAC.

 The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but 
 it becomes harsh
 sounding at some point.  I don't know what the output 
 waveform looks like.

 So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked 
 around, I put a
 fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode 
 voltages started
 to drop.  The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy 
 amount of forced
 air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good.  Conductive 
 socket material when
 hot?  I don't think so:  I put the tube on a 1.5-inch 
 extender to reduce
 heat at the socket, with no change in behavior.  Bad tube? 
 No, two others
 behave the same way.

 I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, 
 some on this list.
 None seem helpful.  I'm stumped... any ideas?

 Thanks and 73,

 Randy WB4SPB



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