[Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

2010-10-16 Thread K8JDC
 To everybody who has written thus far, I thank you.  Still working on 
it...


- I have double-checked the ground connections on the tuner and radio.  
All is good there.


- To Gary who suggested that the external tuner indicated that the 
problem was past that point, I hooked my Tentec up to the same 
tuner/antenna and it is rock solid at full power output into the same 
configuration.  I also don't think I have a break in the ladder line for 
the same reason.  I have connected my MFJ-259 to the tuner input and the 
antenna is about 58+j7 in terms of impedance.  Looks rock solid on the 
259...no fluctuation.


- I can't induce the problem on 20m...only 40m.  I ran 20m CW into the 
same doublet/ladder line antenna and it's fine...at least through a 
short test.


- During testing, I notice that I can induce the problem by unkeying the 
radio a fairly high percentage of the time.  So, if I put it in CW and 
key up, all will be well until I unkey.  When I unkey, the reflected 
power will frequently jump.  Same on SSB if I key the mic with no input 
audio.  If I just key the mic with basically zero RF going out and then 
unkey, I will see the reflected needle jump when I let off the PTT 
switch.  This is what had me thinking about the T/R relay.  I tried this 
on 20m and didn't see the same thing.  It operated normally.


When I aligned this radio (I don't recall the exact S/N but I think it's 
around 4900), I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed 
the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it 
wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going 
between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too 
hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.


Dave
K8JD

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

2010-10-16 Thread Jim Shorney
On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 16:50:50 -0400, K8JDC wrote:

I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed 
the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it 
wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going 
between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too 
hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.



I would bet that if you had a frequency counter coupled to it, you would find
that it is oscillating somewhere in the 9 MHz area. That is the symptom of the
40 Meter oscillation problem that I found. 125 Watts is below the spec that
Drake says to align it to, so you should be able to get more out. I would have
to go back and look at my notes, but I think 330 Ohms paralleled across R2203
on the REV. 2 predriver board was what I used to increase the amount negative
feedback at lower frequencies. It may be possible or necessary to go even lower
in value, but this is what worked for me on two samples that I had. I was just
able to make rated output through adjustment of the predriver pot and ALC pot
without oscillation. It's hard to get it to oscillate into a dummy load, it
seems to need an antenna to take off.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
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http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

2010-10-16 Thread K8AC
?I was plagued with the 40M oscillation problem with the same symptoms - a 
40M antenna with a bit of reactance resulted in the oscillation.  I decided 
to build the PIN diode attenuator per the PA1HFO design and solved the 
problem that way.  That allows you to set the signal level fed to the 
pre-driver stage to a different level on each band.  You can then adjust 
each band so that the drive control can be left in the same position as you 
switch bands and you don't have to adjust it for every band change.  With 
the input signal thus attenuated on 40M, the oscillation was never heard 
from again.  There are other advantages to the attenuator and the whole 
thing is described in an article on WB4HFN's site.   The mods to the 
original TR7 are minimal - the attenuator sits in the coax feed to the PA 
brick and you have to pick up the supply voltage and band switch information 
from points on the motherboard.  The entire mod can be removed in very short 
order if desired.


73, K8AC

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd



On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 16:50:50 -0400, K8JDC wrote:


I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed
the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it
wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going
between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too
hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.




I would bet that if you had a frequency counter coupled to it, you would 
find
that it is oscillating somewhere in the 9 MHz area. That is the symptom of 
the
40 Meter oscillation problem that I found. 125 Watts is below the spec 
that
Drake says to align it to, so you should be able to get more out. I would 
have
to go back and look at my notes, but I think 330 Ohms paralleled across 
R2203
on the REV. 2 predriver board was what I used to increase the amount 
negative
feedback at lower frequencies. It may be possible or necessary to go even 
lower
in value, but this is what worked for me on two samples that I had. I was 
just
able to make rated output through adjustment of the predriver pot and ALC 
pot
without oscillation. It's hard to get it to oscillate into a dummy load, 
it

seems to need an antenna to take off.

73




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