[Elecraft] Spare parts for K2

2004-06-25 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
Does somebody have any suggestion of a list of parts considered a 
must in my spare parts package for my K2 I would like to store at home 
???


For sure Q7 (2SC1969) is in my kit !!!

===
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[Elecraft] K1EL cw keyboard

2004-06-25 Thread J F
This was easy and fun to build, very reasonably
priced, good documentation, semi-cult following, small
enough to fit inside the rig (if you want to add a
hole!), works well in a rat's nest format as well. I
have mine connected with my j-38 and a switching line
from my laptop when I use N1MM software for the
contests. Anyone ever build, and use the XTAL matching
board K1EL has? I have dreams of homebrewing my own,
should I find some free time...
cheers,
julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Spare parts for K2

2004-06-25 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD

Thanks Don for your suggestion,

This is a good starting point I'm agree that I don't need a lot of 
components, but a few basic and versatile to be commonly use in many 
other projects.


And one other thing, all parts seems to be very common anyway in any 
good electronic store, or at least you will get it in a couple of 
days...


73

Le 04-06-25, à 11:11, Don Wilhelm a écrit :


Jean-Francois,

I would say to save your money - unless you want to accumulate some 
parts

for other homebrew projects.

Parts in the K2 rarely fail (almost never) unless they are abused in 
some

way.
The design point for the components is conservative and little stress 
is
placed on them in normal usage.  I have never had a component fail in 
a K2
in 5 years unless I 'slipped' with the probe - and if that happens, it 
is
hard to say just what component will be zapped - it depends on where 
the

probe was placed.

If you insist, I would suggest buying some 2N7000 MOSFETs because they 
have
very low gate current and can be used if you want to 'steal' a signal 
from
inside the K2 without creating undue extra loading.  They will handle 
up to
200 ma of drain current too, so they can drive a heavy load if 
required.
Other good choices are 2N NPN transistors and 2N2906 PNP 
transistors
which will give a good start for any junkbox.  An assortment of 1/4 
watt
resistors and a stock of capacitors is always a good thing to have on 
hand.

I keep every value resistor in the 10% value scale in stock and lots of
.001, .01 and .1 capacitors as well as assorted smaller values.  You 
can
usually parallel capacitors to obtain the in-between values when 
needed.
What you add to your parts selection does depend on the kind of 
circuits you
are likely to build, but you can't go wrong with the above suggestions 
for a

starting point.

73,
Don W3FPR

Life is what happens when you are making other plans

- Original Message -

Does somebody have any suggestion of a list of parts considered a
must in my spare parts package for my K2 I would like to store at home
???

For sure Q7 (2SC1969) is in my kit !!!




===
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[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Club d'Astronomie Amateur de Sherbrooke
Club Radio Amateur de l'Estrie

Mon site web personnel : http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
===

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[Elecraft] K9DI/KF9HL Field Day 2004 Effort

2004-06-25 Thread k9di




--  Hi Gang,
Wayne K9DI es LD Patriot here.  I just wanted
to drop a note to the list asking you to keep an ear out
for the combined K9DI/KF9HL FD 2004 effort.  We'll
be using a combo of Antique Kenwoods (Tom's TS520, my
TS820s, with Ol' Betsy, my TS520, as backup) and my 2 elecrafts
if we do CW we'll probably use the elecrafts due to the filtering.
Good Luck to all on FD 2004!!
73
de
Wayne K9DI
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Re: [Elecraft] Spare parts for K2

2004-06-25 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
Yes you're right maybe someday I'll buy another K2 I'm planning 
anyway to buy another one that will stay in my shack with the PA 
100W


I'm really enjoying this rig... It's a good thing also to have problem 
sometime make me learn a lot !!! ;-) But no too often...


Le 04-06-25, à 11:44, Ron D'Eau Claire a écrit :


FB about getting a new Q7, Jean-François!

As for spares... Over the years, I have always kept a spare final or
finals around ever since my 'final' was a 6L6 or 807 vacuum tube. If
something was going to blow due to carelessness or the strain of 
regular

use, it'd be the final.

In 1977 - more than a quarter century ago - I built a Heath HW-8
transceiver. The other day I was digging around in my semiconductor 
stock

and came across an envelope marked Spare HW-8 Final.

The message is that it's been over a quarter century since I've 
blown a

final.

Once you have the rig up and running, just about the only thing that's 
going
to fail is something that you break by having an accident - like the 
probe
slipping (You made me wince with that story. I suspect that most of us 
has

done that at least once!).

Still, if you're going to have something quit in 'normal' operation, 
it's
most likely one of the 'final' transistors. If you stock one, stock a 
set.
And it's quite unlikely that they will die. The only real danger is if 
you
don't mount the heat sink correctly or run the rig at too high a power 
for
too long. Keep in mind the 10 watt rating for the K2 and the 100 watt 
rating

for the K2/100 are for CW or SSB, not digital modes. CW/SSB has a lower
'duty cycle' since the key is up or you aren't constantly talking so 
the

average power is well below 10 or 100 watts.

Another op I know lost a bypass cap recently. It shorted, which took 
out an
IC relay driver. It really screwed up the relay band-switching and it 
took

him some head-scratching and good detective work to realize what had
happened. All he could see was that the power out was lousy on some 
bands.
Still that's VERY rare. He asked me for ideas and a shorted bypass 
never

occurred to me.

My ol K2/100 (S/N 1289) has been working without a hitch for over 3 
years,
in spite of being torn down dozens of times to make mods or do testing 
of

new mods.

So if you want to avoid being off the air unexpectedly at any time, 
maybe

the best spare is a spare K2... Or perhaps a KX1 G.

73,

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Does somebody have any suggestion of a list of parts considered a
must in my spare parts package for my K2 I would like to store at home
???

For sure Q7 (2SC1969) is in my kit !!!

===
Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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[Elecraft] ICOM/MicroHams FD effort

2004-06-25 Thread Andreas (KU7T)
Hi,

 

Keep an ear out for N7OS (main) and N7IH (GOTA) for Field Day. We will be
running on ICOM-sponsored 7800s and my K2.

 

Good luck to everyone in the contest and also lots of good weather and good
food.

 

73, Andreas,

KU7T

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Spare parts for K2

2004-06-25 Thread A.K.Forrest


Another op I know lost a bypass cap recently. It shorted, which took 
out 		an

IC relay driver. It really screwed up the relay band-switching and it took
him some head-scratching and good detective work to realize what had
happened. All he could see was that the power out was lousy on some bands.
Still that's VERY rare. He asked me for ideas and a shorted bypass never
occurred to me.


This happened to me too so it can't be that rare! The other spare 
I've needed was a headphone socket. They take mini-jacks but if, like 
me you use an adapter to a full size jack, they break. Mine took 
about a year. Obviously I now only use mini jacks. I would guess this 
isn't that rare either because it is a spare item on the Elecraft 
site.


In general I very much agree that things electronic don't wear out.

 Andrew MIKAZ  k2# 3679
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Re: [Elecraft] ICOM/MicroHams FD effort

2004-06-25 Thread Tom Hammond

Andreas (KU7T) wrote:

Keep an ear out for N7OS (main) and N7IH (GOTA) for Field Day. We will be 
running on ICOM-sponsored 7800s and my K2.


Good luck to everyone in the contest and also lots of good weather and 
good food.


As long as we're advertising.. G, I might as well get me 2-pence worth in 
as well...


Please listen for N0SS (and WB0TPN, GOTA) on all modes. Will be running my 
K2/100 on the CW station, all bands.


Hope everyone has a fun, but most of all, SAFE Field Day.

73,

Tom   N0SS 


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[Elecraft] RE: Toriod winding questions (Sorry!)

2004-06-25 Thread Nicolas Pike
Hi,

I have now carefully wound and installed the first few Toroids for my K2.

Vertical Toriods - As I did not want the wire crossing back over the
windings to the mounting holes. I have a bare part of the Toroid (i.e no
wire) where the core sits on the board. Not sure of the percentage, could be
20% bare.

Horizontal Toriods - As I did not want the wire running parallel to the
windings and back to the mounting holes. I have a bare part of the toroid
(i.e no wire) where the core sits on the board. Not sure of the percentage,
could be 20% bare.

I know the manual says 85% as a target. Am I worrying too much? Is it ok /
desirable to have the wire running parallel to the windings, in order to get
fuller spacing around the core? if so, are they secure with the extra
loose wire? I have read the toroid page and looked at photos but I have
missed this mounting detail!

Thanks!

Regards
Nicolas
WWW.M1HOG.COM


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[Elecraft] Re: Spare parts for K2

2004-06-25 Thread Allen Ward
I managed to blow a set of K2 finals.  One of the mounting screws rusted and
the rust shorted one collector to ground (high resistance) so one transistor
opened and the other was down to about 3 watts max.  I dredged back in
memory to a First Telephone License test (when they were still available) to
the rules for number of spare tubes required  for radio stations.  I don't
remember the exact numbers but one spare was required for 1-4 tubes, 2
spares for 5-8 tubes (some such numbers).  So I went through the K2
schematic and ordered 3 sets of finals, 2 drivers, and some of just about
everything ( from RF Parts, Mouser, Newark, Digi-key etc.).  After replacing
the finals I have yet to need a single spare (about 2 years).  There is some
moral here connected with Murphy's law or some corollary thereof.  I suppose
in time there won't be any through-hole parts available and if I am still
around I won't be able to see well enough or solder well enough to fix
anything anyway.
Don't worry, be happy.
Allen

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Toriod winding questions (Sorry!)

2004-06-25 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Nicolas Pike wrote:

Am I worrying too much? 


Yes.

The only toroid that is in any way critical is T5, regarding which I 
remember very vaguely that I had to squeeze or separate the turns a bit 
to get the VCO voltage in spec.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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RE: [Elecraft] Output power problem

2004-06-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Start checking at each part back toward where you do have 13 vdc. Suddenly,
you'll have the bad connection 'bracketed' - no 13 v on one side and 13 v
present on the other side. 

 You may have a badly tinned toroid lead. They can be hard to spot at times
(the lead will look soldered,  but there's actually still a thin layer of
enamel between the wire and the solder in the hole. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 11:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Output power problem


Finally I changed PA transistors Q7  Q8, because I shorten Q7 between 
Base and Collector by accident with my probe... no big deal...

Now, tuning at 2W I have again these readings:

Both Q7  Q8

B : 0.6 VDC
C : 0.0 VDC !!! (should be around 13.3 VDC
E : 0.0 VDC

There is also the readings I have with driver Q5 when tuning at 2W

Q5

E : 0.6 VDC
B : 1.2 VDC
C : 13.4 VDC (should be 12.4, but... )

Any idea ???

===
Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

A


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Re: [Elecraft] Output power problem

2004-06-25 Thread JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
I put my board under a magnifier glass, and I found was you have 
suspected T3 Why T3... because I unsoldered the wrong place 
when first removing the bad Q7... removed a leg of T3 and resoldered 
it not correctly


Ok, now I've replaced only Q7... waiting to receive Q8 I now have 
13.x VDC on the collector of Q7 and Q8 when tuning.


Voltage on Q5 did not change.

Q6 still the same when hitting TUNE

B : 1.1 VDC
C : 13.45 VDC
E :  2.1 VDC ??? should be arounf 0.4 VDC

We must consider than I have Q8 missing at his moment, only a new Q7 
is there, but should emitter of Q6 be ok ??? Change Q6 for a new one 
and it's the same values.




Le 04-06-25, à 15:31, Dan Barker a écrit :

You sure it's not PTTL on T3? There's not a whole lot of components 
between

+12 and the collectorsg.

As to Q5, you don't mention your supply voltage, but again, there's 
not a
whole lot of components between +12 and the collector. I'd say 13.4 
is fine.


Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

ps: PTTL = Poorly Tinned Toroid Leads

snip
Both Q7  Q8

B : 0.6 VDC
C : 0.0 VDC !!! (should be around 13.3 VDC
E : 0.0 VDC

There is also the readings I have with driver Q5 when tuning at 2W

Q5

E : 0.6 VDC
B : 1.2 VDC
C : 13.4 VDC (should be 12.4, but... )

Any idea ???

===
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Web site: http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
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[Elecraft] Eurasian ECN on 26jun2004

2004-06-25 Thread Dwayne Barbee
Well its time for another Eurasian ECN and the times and frequencies are the
same, hopefully the North American FD will not be an issue. times and freqs
are

20m 14.045 at 1600z
40m 7.025 at 1800z

If the exact freq is in use look up 5 or down 5...hope to hear you guys
and good luck. Also want to wish all the Elecrafters good luck during field
day and if you hear me on the air give me a shout.
--
73 ditdit,

Doc YI9RVT/KE4RVT
Al Kut, Iraq
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definitions***
N33.29 E45.45
FPQRP #85   KX1 S/N 0337
QRP-L #2201 (sk)K1 S/N 0113
ARS #1696   K2 S/N 2768
FIST'S #10652   FT897
QRPARCI #11746  www.qrparci.org
www.arsqrp.com
www.fists.org
Sometimes a little brain damage can help. (George Carlin)


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 DC connector WARNING ALERT

2004-06-25 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Steve:

At 11:04 PM 6/25/04, Steve Jackson wrote:

At Field Day, if you will be using your K2 with the
KPA100 ... note that the radio's high-current DC port
is 180 degrees reversed from the national ARES
standard:


I believe you're mistaken pal. The KPA100 APP connector match IDENTICALLY 
the examples shown at http://www.ocraces.org/powerpole.html 
and   http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm.


The link at http://www.westmountainradio.com/pdf/QSTrr.pdf showed nothing 
useful.


The illustration on page 41 of the rev. A KPA100 manual matches exactly the 
illustration at www.ocraces.org... and the illustrations on pages 29  38 
of the rev. A manual match IF you recognize that you're looking at the 
UNDER of the PC board instead of the top... well, at least it's the bottom 
SIDE when it's installed INSIDE the K2 and had been turned upside down for 
that installation... thus making the actual TOP of the PC board the under 
side...


Don't go changing ANYTHING until you've DOUBLE-CHECKED yourself again.

73,

Tom HammondN0SS




















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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 DC connector WARNING ALERT

2004-06-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve and all,

I don't usually disagree with you Steve, but I looked at my APP cables that
DO work FB with my KPA100 and they look just like the pictures in all your
references.

Yes, if one looks at the the KPA100 input, it may look like it is reversed,
but it DOES mate properly with the cables that are configured just like the
'standard'.  As an added note -- my Rigrunner connectors look like they are
reversed too - but they have to be that way to mate with the cables pictured
in the references.  The pictures show the cable and not the mating connector
in the housing.

A word to the wise is still in order - before connecting ANY equipment to
someone else's cables, be certain the polarity is correct!!!  Especially on
Field Day, but on every other day as well.

73,
Don W3FPR

Life is what happens when you are making other plans

- Original Message - 

 At Field Day, if you will be using your K2 with the
 KPA100 ... note that the radio's high-current DC port
 is 180 degrees reversed from the national ARES
 standard:

 http://www.ocraces.org/powerpole.html
 http://www.westmountainradio.com/pdf/QSTrr.pdf
 http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm


 If other Field Day attendees attempt to connect you
 rig to a standard-configured PowerPole fitting, they
 will be connecting with reverse polarity, and this
 will blow the fuse.

 Hopefully there IS a fuse ...

 Otherwise, quite a lot of smoke will come out of many
 places.

 Now that I realize the problem, I will be re-doing my
 KPA100 connector with a wire pigtail instead of the PC
 mount, to make the rear panel fitting the correct
 polarity.  The rear panel is also silk-screened
 backwards ( + and - ) from the standard but I will
 make a label of some sort to cover that up.

 Good luck and be careful out there.  Don't let others
 use your K2/KPA100 rig unless they also use YOUR power
 wire.  If they try to hook it up to an ARES standard
 club power block, uh-oh.



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