[Elecraft] Re: K2 AGC Threshold.

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Mike,

Great to hear that you are all set and that the work is progressing - and
you are very welcome.

About the problem. Your K2 and mine wanted a higher voltage at U2 pin 5 than
the "normal" to prevent the AGC working on the receiver's own internal
noise. The AGC Threshold was too low and could not be raised because the
adjustment pot R1 had reached the end of its travel. The reason that we
could not get the voltage at U2 pin 5 to the value required for a proper
setting of the AGC threshold was simply that the output voltage from the 8
volt regulator was / is less than 8 volts, but still within the allowed
tolerance, and the divider composed of parts of RP6 along with R1 could not
cater to this lower voltage. Adding the 27K resistor across RP6 (3-4)
compensates enough for the low output from the 8V regulators that we have
and, in my case, results in the wiper of R1 being close to mid-travel when
set for the AGC threshold that I like. But I must stress that this "fix" is
for our K2s. The global modification would have to cater for all DC voltage
tolerances, AGC closed loop tolerances, receiver gain tolerances and so on,
if one goes whole hog - which might not be necessary. But I'll leave those
sums for the lads at Elecraft !

Hope that answers your question, and have fun.

73, Geoff  GM4ESD


- Original Message - 
From: "Mike, W8ENG" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: K2 AGC Threshold.


> Geoff,   I think I'm all set for now, and the work is progressing nicely.
I
> would be interested in hearing Elecrafts thoughts on the AGC circuit, and
> what you thought the problem was.  Thanks again for the help.
>
> Mike, W8ENG
>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] N0SS's CW Tuning Indcator

[Tom Hammond]

Hi John:

At 07:38 PM 11/19/04, John wrote:
I finally got the time to build one of Tom's SMT CW Tuning Indicators 
today (retirement is hell) and I would like to report that it does a fine 
job.  I was surprised at how much room there was for it.  I pictured a 
real tight squeeze but I ended up with all kinds of room.  I attached mine 
with some double sided foam tape.  Tom did a fine job with this one.  I am 
planning to put the second one in my K1.  Can anyone who has already done 
this pass along any helpful information?I thought that I would use the 
Tuning Indicator to drive an LED hidden behind the front panel so that the 
light would shine between the front panel and the buttons.


As of this writing, to my knowledge, at least one builder has installed the 
CW Tuning Indicator in his K1.


I'll be adding some K1 (and KX1) installation notes to my current set of K2 
installation docs soon... but maybe not for a another few days.


Here's the note I received from Steve:

  Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 20:09:23 -0800
  From: Steve Hostetler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: Elecraft 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  Subject: [Elecraft] K6XX/N0SS Tuning Indicator in K1
X-BeenThere: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.4
Precedence: list
List-Id: Elecraft Discussion List 
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  I've had Tom's SMD version in my K2 for a couple weeks and
  it works great.  I just finished testing one in my K1.  It
  also works great, and may be more useful to me than the one
  in the K2.  All connections to the indicator are easily
  picked off J1 (AF from P1, GND from P3 and 12V from P16).

  I'm going to mount an SMD LED behind a 1/16 inch hole in the
  front panel.

  Thanks to Bob and Tom.

  Steve, kx7r

It appears that the easiest place to actually pick off the connections 
might be from the MAIN BOARD, instead of the FP BOARD, but I'm still 
cogitating on this,


Will post something a little more solid soon... as soon as I can 'plunk' 
one into my K1 for testing.


Above, Steve states that he picked his AF input from J1-1, but in further 
discussion, I think he actually used J1-2 (the high side of the AFin pot. 
You might try both and see which you prefer. In fact, you might use J1-1 
for alignment and J1-2 for the final (in use) installation, as J1-1 appears 
to provide a SIDETONE input for alignment, while J1-2 might not provide 
quite as high a level of SIDETONE during normal operation, which I think 
might be wise.


73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K2 #4520 up and running...

[HB9DUT]

Hi,

yes, K2 #4520 is up und running :-)
After i have changed the two transistors Q9 & Q10 the internal frequency 
counter has no problem anymore.

It is really a pleasure to work with the K2.

But i have one small problem. On 17m and 15m my K2 has only very low output.
All other Bands are ok. Receiving is ok, only the output is low.

All measurements are done with an Wavetek SI 4031 Stabilock and should 
be ok.

Voltage is 13.8V

Frequency  OffsetPout   Current
 3.75 Mhz 10 Hz   14.9W3.18 A
 7.10 MHz  7 Hz   14.9W3.18 A
10.10 MHz  8 Hz   13.3W3.08 A
14.10 MHz13 Hz   14.0W2.80 A
18.10 MHz  2 Hz   0.29W0.75 A
21.10 MHz10 Hz   0.32W0.72 A
24.90 MHz20 Hz   13.9 W   2.80 A
28.20 MHz11 Hz   10.6 W   2.61 A

I think the problem is not T1 or T2 because the output power on 12m and 
10m are ok.

Maybe i have a problem with L10 & L11 or C32 & C32?

73 de Peter - HB9DUT


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[Elecraft] K2 #1117-C facelift pics

[Tom Althoff]

I'm not sure if the mailing list allows posting of photos to the list so I'm 
taking the conservative approach and providing links to some photos of my K2 
with the new knob and paddle assembly.

K2TK drilled and tapped the Palm Paddle mini-paddle housing and attached it to 
the right side panel of the K2:
http://www.k2ta.com/palmpaddle.jpg  
http://www.k2ta.com/cablerun.jpg
http://www.k2ta.com/cableties.jpg

The Ampex VPR-3 knob with removable faceplate, one with the dimple, one without:
http://www.k2ta.com/vpr3knob.jpg
http://www.k2ta.com/vpr3knob2.jpg

I was going to post a photo of the washing machine workbench that I 
repaired/upgraded/built the K2/100 on but it was too horrifying for words.

73 de Tom K2TA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4520 up and running...

[k4zm]

Peter:

I would look in the area of the Low Pass Filter section or the Bandpass 
filter section.  A quick check of the low pass can be done on RX by 
connecting the antenna to the rf out jack and then moving it to W1.  If the 
signal level increases then the problem is in the Low Pass Filter section.


A good test of the Bandpass filter is to look at the RF voltage on the base 
of Q5 in the tune mode on a good band and then on a bad band and see if the 
level is way down as compared to a good operating band.  Check solder 
connections on K5 and K6 and K11.  All other sections of the radio are 
functioning if it works on other bands,   Also make sure that C33 is 
installed in the correct holes.  If  I were a betting man I would bet on the 
Low Pass Filter circuit that is common to those two bands.. (L23, L24, 
C218-222)


Good Luck

73

Jim Younce K4ZM 



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[Elecraft] Soldering station for new builder?

[G. Beat]

Are you about buying someone an Elecraft kit this holiday season, or desire an 
inexpensive temperature controlled station for that new amateur builder?

I have 5 Weller WTCP in new condition (built from NOS parts). These are 
identical to the WTCPL designs, BUT do not have the switch or neon light on the 
front face.   The complete package includes the original Weller Tech Sheet, 
sponge, solder and solder wick.  These are $ 30 plus shipping. (This is the 
same model station I first used in 1975).  An Adobe Acrobat of the Tech Sheet 
is also available.

I also have 2 refurbished EC1201A soldering irons.  These work with the EC2002 
and EC1002 soldering stations.  I have been told they are also compatible with 
the new Weller Silver Series base units.  These are $ 100 new, these 
refurbished irons are $ 50 each plus shipping.

I also have a large stock of the SW60 switches for the repair of the Weller TCP 
irons.

Adobe Acrobat Tech Sheets for the WTPCL, WTCPN, WTCPS and WTCPT stations are 
available (e-mail request).

Greg
w9gb

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ to activate a covered bridge or two today!

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,
 
Look  for me to activate a covered bridge or two today 11/20/04.
I should be there by around noon time or 1700 utc.
Hope to work you soon from Lancaster County near Paradise, PA!
 
72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
ARCBS # 1 
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[Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild

[Unifiedtx]

I thought that installing MCU1.05 there would be ample RF sampling rates  
taken to avoid erratic LED displays.  The updated firmware seems not to be  the 
solution.
With a 50 ohm dummy load on the KAT100 output only the leftmost LED lights  
up and K2 SWR is 1:1 regardless of power or band in use.  With the Carolina  
Windom 80 attached to the KAT100 output and a Bird 43 wattmeter between the K2  
output and KAT100 input, I found the reflected power stayed at zero and the  
forward power stayed at max (regardless of band or power setting) while the  
KAT100 LEDs and K2 SWR reading were going wild.  The wildest LED and SWR  
activity occurs on 30 meters but does not occur on all bands. 
I have already removed the white wire from pin 7 of the K2 end of the IO  
port and put a .01 pF cap from the white wire to the bare wire on pin 1.
My shack is on the second floor (over my garage) and I have tried to be as  
attentive to grounding as possible.  I use a common grounding point that  
attaches to a 1/2 " copper pipe (used only for grounding) that goes down approx 
 10 
feet to an eight foot buried grounding rod.  I believe the K2 erratic  SWR 
activity will stop when the KAT100 LED stray RF problem has been  eliminated.  
Has anyone made any changes or done any bypassing inside the  KAT100 to 
eliminate stray RF and tame the LED display?  Roy Morris   W4WFB
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[Elecraft] K2 Phase Noise

[R March]

Has anyone come up with a mod that reduces phase noise on the K2?  Thanks,
Bob

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Roy,

Getting a really good RF ground for a 2nd story shack may require more than 
a 1/2 inch copper pipe, it may be a good ground at DC, but actually may have 
a high impedance at RF (depends on the frequency).


The easiest thing to try is a quarter wave counterpoise wire (open at the 
far end and out of the way - that end WILL have high voltage RF on it).  Cut 
one for each band (fan out the ends).  The wire can be stretched out on the 
floor is necessary, but neater and safer if it is run outside.  If you can 
get it in a straight line, so much the better, but not a requirement - but 
do make gentle bends (radius of a large coffee can) if you cannot run it 
straight.


The characteristics of a quarter wave wire apply - high voltage RF on one 
end and zero volts on the other.  The zero volts end is a good RF ground 
point - connect it directly to your KAT100.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


I thought that installing MCU1.05 there would be ample RF sampling rates
taken to avoid erratic LED displays.  The updated firmware seems not to be 
the

solution.
With a 50 ohm dummy load on the KAT100 output only the leftmost LED lights
up and K2 SWR is 1:1 regardless of power or band in use.  With the 
Carolina
Windom 80 attached to the KAT100 output and a Bird 43 wattmeter between 
the K2
output and KAT100 input, I found the reflected power stayed at zero and 
the
forward power stayed at max (regardless of band or power setting) while 
the

KAT100 LEDs and K2 SWR reading were going wild.  The wildest LED and SWR
activity occurs on 30 meters but does not occur on all bands.
I have already removed the white wire from pin 7 of the K2 end of the IO
port and put a .01 pF cap from the white wire to the bare wire on pin 1.
My shack is on the second floor (over my garage) and I have tried to be as
attentive to grounding as possible.  I use a common grounding point that
attaches to a 1/2 " copper pipe (used only for grounding) that goes down 
approx  10

feet to an eight foot buried grounding rod.  I believe the K2 erratic  SWR
activity will stop when the KAT100 LED stray RF problem has been 
eliminated.

Has anyone made any changes or done any bypassing inside the  KAT100 to
eliminate stray RF and tame the LED display?  Roy Morris   W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild

[Jack Brindle]

Roy;

Try adding several feet of coax between the tuner and the antenna and  
try again. It appears you may have a voltage maximum occurring at the  
tuner - adding the coax will move it out a ways. There are just some  
impedances and feedline lengths that tuners have a difficult time  
handling. If, by chance the antenna is open-wire fed, then add coax  
between the KAT100 and the balun...


Note that the Bird will see different line characteristics than the KAT  
because it has a different placement in the line, and thus different  
voltage/current values at that point. It is the values at the tuner  
that are critical, because they are what the tuner's LC circuits have  
to match.


One other thing - the K2 gets the SWR from the KAT, so if the KAT's SWR  
display is changing, the K2's SWR display should also be changing.


If all else fails, make a video of the display and advertise it on  
late-night TV. Late-night viewers will buy anything these days, and you  
just might get rich doing it!


On Nov 20, 2004, at 8:22 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I thought that installing MCU1.05 there would be ample RF sampling  
rates
taken to avoid erratic LED displays.  The updated firmware seems not  
to be  the

solution.
With a 50 ohm dummy load on the KAT100 output only the leftmost LED  
lights
up and K2 SWR is 1:1 regardless of power or band in use.  With the  
Carolina
Windom 80 attached to the KAT100 output and a Bird 43 wattmeter  
between the K2
output and KAT100 input, I found the reflected power stayed at zero  
and the
forward power stayed at max (regardless of band or power setting)  
while the
KAT100 LEDs and K2 SWR reading were going wild.  The wildest LED and  
SWR

activity occurs on 30 meters but does not occur on all bands.
I have already removed the white wire from pin 7 of the K2 end of the  
IO
port and put a .01 pF cap from the white wire to the bare wire on pin  
1.
My shack is on the second floor (over my garage) and I have tried to  
be as
attentive to grounding as possible.  I use a common grounding point  
that
attaches to a 1/2 " copper pipe (used only for grounding) that goes  
down approx  10
feet to an eight foot buried grounding rod.  I believe the K2 erratic   
SWR
activity will stop when the KAT100 LED stray RF problem has been   
eliminated.

Has anyone made any changes or done any bypassing inside the  KAT100 to
eliminate stray RF and tame the LED display?  Roy Morris   W4WFB


- Jack Brindle, W6FB, ex-WA4FIB
 
-


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Phase Noise

[Dan Barker]

Er, ah, I wasn't aware the K2 made any objectionable noise. What's your
specific issue?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


Has anyone come up with a mod that reduces phase noise on the K2?  Thanks,
Bob


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Re: [Elecraft] N0SS's CW Tuning Indcator

[Jack Nelson]

I have Tom's indicator as well, just haven't had time to build it yet. You
need to talk to Joe, W4JHR. He built it for his K1 and has been extremely
pleased. You can reach him at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

73's Jack  K5FSE
Treas  QRP ARCI

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft Mail List"

Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 5:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N0SS's CW Tuning Indcator


> Hi John:
>
> At 07:38 PM 11/19/04, John wrote:
> >I finally got the time to build one of Tom's SMT CW Tuning Indicators
> >today (retirement is hell) and I would like to report that it does a fine
> >job.  I was surprised at how much room there was for it.  I pictured a
> >real tight squeeze but I ended up with all kinds of room.  I attached
mine
> >with some double sided foam tape.  Tom did a fine job with this one.  I
am
> >planning to put the second one in my K1.  Can anyone who has already done
> >this pass along any helpful information?I thought that I would use
the
> >Tuning Indicator to drive an LED hidden behind the front panel so that
the
> >light would shine between the front panel and the buttons.
>
> As of this writing, to my knowledge, at least one builder has installed
the
> CW Tuning Indicator in his K1.
>
> I'll be adding some K1 (and KX1) installation notes to my current set of
K2
> installation docs soon... but maybe not for a another few days.
>
> Here's the note I received from Steve:
>
>Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 20:09:23 -0800
>From: Steve Hostetler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Elecraft 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Subject: [Elecraft] K6XX/N0SS Tuning Indicator in K1
> X-BeenThere: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.4
> Precedence: list
> List-Id: Elecraft Discussion List 
> List-Unsubscribe: ,
>  
> List-Archive: 
> List-Post: 
> List-Help: 
> List-Subscribe: ,
>  
>
>I've had Tom's SMD version in my K2 for a couple weeks and
>it works great.  I just finished testing one in my K1.  It
>also works great, and may be more useful to me than the one
>in the K2.  All connections to the indicator are easily
>picked off J1 (AF from P1, GND from P3 and 12V from P16).
>
>I'm going to mount an SMD LED behind a 1/16 inch hole in the
>front panel.
>
>Thanks to Bob and Tom.
>
>Steve, kx7r
>
> It appears that the easiest place to actually pick off the connections
> might be from the MAIN BOARD, instead of the FP BOARD, but I'm still
> cogitating on this,
>
> Will post something a little more solid soon... as soon as I can 'plunk'
> one into my K1 for testing.
>
> Above, Steve states that he picked his AF input from J1-1, but in further
> discussion, I think he actually used J1-2 (the high side of the AFin pot.
> You might try both and see which you prefer. In fact, you might use J1-1
> for alignment and J1-2 for the final (in use) installation, as J1-1
appears
> to provide a SIDETONE input for alignment, while J1-2 might not provide
> quite as high a level of SIDETONE during normal operation, which I think
> might be wise.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom   N0SS
>
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>



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RE: [Elecraft] Anyone know how an MH2 works?

[Dan Barker]

or was it "How to set up SSB".

Anyhow, I did everything I thought I should. I heard an OM saying CQ on 40,
and I went back with a request for an audio report, and again, I get
"Horrible". Not much help.

Summary:

  Mic element went south (I know it worked 2 years ago).

  I never got an answer from Heil about a replacement element.

  Gary (Elecraft) says Heil handles mics, not Elecraft.

  The RadioShack 270-090 appears identical to the MH2 element, and appears
to work (At least the o'scope draws pretty pictures).

  So, to determine the nature of my "horribleness", I need to monitor my
transmissions.

  To that end, I threw together a 40m DC receiver.

  I transmitted into my dummy load and listened to the monitor receiver on
headphones. That doesn't work. You can't tell anything on headphones when
you are doing the talking.

  I set up the monitor receiver to record on my laptop, tuned some rag
chewers on 40, found them on the K2, and pressed record. After about 15
seconds of traffic, I switched the K2 to the dummy load and started talking
(Kind of a seriously cross-mode qsy).

  Playing back the recording, both the OT's in Illinois and I sounded fine.

So, back on the air. Now my audio reports are "Horrible". There's not enough
drive with SSBa on 1, so I think 2 is the way to go. SSBc maybe should be
1:1, but it sounded better to me at 2:1. Of course, the issue may simply be
I have no idea at all how to zero beat SSB.

  I think my next step will be a sched with someone who has a clue (I sure
don't) and a while to spend. We can move the bfo's around, or maybe even
definitively say my mic element sucks. Another choice (getting more
attractive all the time) is stay under 7150 Kcs.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

Extreme Northwest Georgia.

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild

[MC Carpenter]

that did it, thanks
- Original Message - 
From: "Jack Brindle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 LEDs Gone Wild



Roy;

Try adding several feet of coax between the tuner and the antenna and  try 
again. It appears you may have a voltage maximum occurring at the  tuner - 
adding the coax will move it out a ways. There are just some  impedances 
and feedline lengths that tuners have a difficult time  handling. If, by 
chance the antenna is open-wire fed, then add coax  between the KAT100 and 
the balun...


Note that the Bird will see different line characteristics than the KAT 
because it has a different placement in the line, and thus different 
voltage/current values at that point. It is the values at the tuner  that 
are critical, because they are what the tuner's LC circuits have  to 
match.


One other thing - the K2 gets the SWR from the KAT, so if the KAT's SWR 
display is changing, the K2's SWR display should also be changing.


If all else fails, make a video of the display and advertise it on 
late-night TV. Late-night viewers will buy anything these days, and you 
just might get rich doing it!


On Nov 20, 2004, at 8:22 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I thought that installing MCU1.05 there would be ample RF sampling  rates
taken to avoid erratic LED displays.  The updated firmware seems not  to 
be  the

solution.
With a 50 ohm dummy load on the KAT100 output only the leftmost LED 
lights
up and K2 SWR is 1:1 regardless of power or band in use.  With the 
Carolina
Windom 80 attached to the KAT100 output and a Bird 43 wattmeter  between 
the K2
output and KAT100 input, I found the reflected power stayed at zero  and 
the
forward power stayed at max (regardless of band or power setting)  while 
the

KAT100 LEDs and K2 SWR reading were going wild.  The wildest LED and  SWR
activity occurs on 30 meters but does not occur on all bands.
I have already removed the white wire from pin 7 of the K2 end of the  IO
port and put a .01 pF cap from the white wire to the bare wire on pin  1.
My shack is on the second floor (over my garage) and I have tried to  be 
as

attentive to grounding as possible.  I use a common grounding point  that
attaches to a 1/2 " copper pipe (used only for grounding) that goes  down 
approx  10
feet to an eight foot buried grounding rod.  I believe the K2 erratic 
SWR
activity will stop when the KAT100 LED stray RF problem has been 
eliminated.

Has anyone made any changes or done any bypassing inside the  KAT100 to
eliminate stray RF and tame the LED display?  Roy Morris   W4WFB


- Jack Brindle, W6FB, ex-WA4FIB
 
-


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Afternoon,
   My stint as a teacher of emergency communications has come to its 
holiday hiatus.  No classes for a few months.  It is nice to have Saturday 
morning back but I do miss teaching.  My students always kept me on my 
toes and rewarded me by learning.  I don't think you truly know a subject 
until you teach it to someone else.  The students are constantly giving me 
different perspectives and a bit of their life knowledge.


   Twenty meters sounded good this week but I have not had time to listen 
to forty meters.  Eighty meters worked for the CW section net but it was 
terrible for MARS.  Just goes to show you the advantage of CW over SSB.  
They were running the legal limit and just barely being heard but on CW we 
were working the same region quite easily with less than 50 watts.  But CW 
is a PROHIBITED mode according to the Secretary of Defense.  Oh well.


Please join us :

Sunday 2400z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST)  7045 kHz

Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for further details.  Thank 
you for the web space Dan.


No special requirements or exchanges necessary on ECN just check in and 
see what happens from there.

  Take care all and see you tomorrow evening,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
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FW: [Elecraft] Anyone know how an MH2 works?

[Dan Barker]

Hearty thanks to Jim; K4ZM. He said I sounded "tinny" and to read back my
BFO settings. The freq was reasonable but the bandwidth was 2,200 hz. That
ain't right!

Using OP1 really helps! I paid good money for the SSB filter, might as well
use it for transmitting. I have NO IDEA how it got from OP1 to 2.2, but
there must have been a firmware upgrade or a reset somewhere in the last 2
years.

Live and learn, and again - Thanks Jim.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

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[Elecraft] K160RX (Long)

[David N.]

Hello All 
I am posting this again.
I have a problem with "HI CUR" On the K160RX
It comes on for a second and then shows .5 watts
regardless of the power setting.
In troubleshooting here is what I have done
I compared in and out of the of the module
with the setup of 
Power 1.0 watts setting
I got this with the RF Probe 
AT C1 7.5-8.3v
AT L1/C2 9.9-10.3v
At L2/C3 7.5-8.3v
I compared this to 80m 
and the results were the same
So The next thing I did was check switching My
switching is ok all the relays are functioning
Next
I pulled the K160RX board out and checked to see if
there may be short across the bottom of the plug for
the module. by comparing the reading from 1 pin to the
rest and so on IE pin 1 to pin 2 pin 3 etc then move
to the next pin I have a descrepency that I cannot
prove or disprove Pin 2 to pin 7,8,9 (input) and
12,13,14 all check short. If I read the schematic
correctly There should not be any direct connection
from pin 2 to 7,8,9 12,13,14 which really puts all
these connections to ground, Correct?
thanks 
David KR4OW




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[Elecraft] KPA100 Shields

[Kent Haase]

I've received two very helpful hints to help me determine which is the old
KPA100 shield and which came with the Shield Upgrade Kit:

"The new shield should have holes in it to accept the three added
grounding clips."
and
"Hold the two up together - the one that is larger on several edges is
the 'new and inproved' shield - discard the smaller one."
(Thanks Tom and Don)

However, aside from the "pattern" on the shields (the crystallization
pattern of the galvanization? - on one it is much finer than the other), the
size of the shields and number and placement of holes is _exactly_ the same.

Any other ideas?  Perhaps they are both 'new and improved'.

Kent VE4KEH
s/n 2673


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[Elecraft] KPA100 and ROM chips

[Steven Pituch]

Hi all,
Does the KPA100 kit include new ROM chips for the K2 or do you also need to
buy the FWK2MCIO upgrade?  My MCU is 1.04d and the IOC is 1.02. I seem to
remember reading in the online manual, well.I thought it implied that
the chips were included in the KPA100 kit.  

72 and a half,
Steve, W2MY/5, K2 #402

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Shields

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Kent,

Count the holes - if there are 10 holes, then it is the newer shield.  There 
is only a difference in the size at one corner - the corner that covers the 
RF output jack.


The 'placement' of the original 7 holes is unchanged - 3 holes were added to 
the newer shield to accomodate the grounding clips.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


I've received two very helpful hints to help me determine which is the old
KPA100 shield and which came with the Shield Upgrade Kit:

   "The new shield should have holes in it to accept the three added
grounding clips."
and
   "Hold the two up together - the one that is larger on several edges is
the 'new and inproved' shield - discard the smaller one."
(Thanks Tom and Don)

However, aside from the "pattern" on the shields (the crystallization
pattern of the galvanization? - on one it is much finer than the other), 
the
size of the shields and number and placement of holes is _exactly_ the 
same.


Any other ideas?  Perhaps they are both 'new and improved'.

Kent VE4KEH
s/n 2673


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and ROM chips

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Elecraft normally supplies any needed firmware upgrades with the purchase of 
a new option.  It would be wise when talking with Lisa (sales) to point out 
that you believe you need firmware upgrades.


Elecraft does try to keep track of which K2s are at which level, but with 
K2s changing hands, and the it is an insurmountable task to have all the 
information up to date.  All I can say for certain is that Elecraft does 
have a record of the 2 K2s that I own - and I keep them posted when I order 
an upgrade so they know which serial number it should be tracked on.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


Hi all,
Does the KPA100 kit include new ROM chips for the K2 or do you also need 
to

buy the FWK2MCIO upgrade?  My MCU is 1.04d and the IOC is 1.02. I seem to
remember reading in the online manual, well.I thought it implied that
the chips were included in the KPA100 kit.




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[Elecraft] DSP on 60 Meters

[Unifiedtx]

When I tap DISPLAY and get "S1 nr nt" I hear a raspy tone ticking off the  
seconds.  It is present in any DSP or time mode.  It is loud enough to  be 
annoying.  This phenomenon only occurs on 60 meters.  Has  anyone else 
experienced 
this?  Is it normal?  Roy Morris   W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and ROM chips

[Paul Saville]

If your MCU FW is older than 2.02A, the KPA100 comes with free MCU and IOC
upgrades to the latest version.

But wait, there's more!

If your KSB2 FW is older than 1.06, you also get a free KSB2 FW upgrade
(refer page 22 in the KPA100 rev c manual). This is required because the ALC
in the old KSB2 FW is calibrated for 0.1-10W not 0.1-100W.

The KSB2 FW upgrade was missing from my order, but an e-mail to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] had it sent out tout de suite. To anyone ordering the
KPA100 I recommend that you list your existing MCU, IOC and KSB2 versions on
your order, and specifically request free upgrades to the latest versions.

73 Paul ZL3IN

- Original Message - 
 Does the KPA100 kit include new ROM chips for the K2 or do you also need to
buy the FWK2MCIO upgrade?

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Re: [Elecraft] K160RX (Long)

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

David,

To repeat the old adage - check soldering, then re-check soldering, and when 
that is done, check the soldering.


In particular, look for too much solder causing solder bridges.

Plug the K160RX into the K2 and select any band other than 160 meters - then 
power off and check the resistance from pins 2, 5 and 6, and 12, 13 and 14 
to ground again - the reading should be high, if it is not, check for those 
solder bridges at the connector and at the relays.  After that, plug the 
module in, turn power on and select 160 meters then turn power off - you 
should now see continuity through the low pass filter - put one lead on 
either of pins 2, 5 or 6 and check continuity to pins 12, 13 and 14 - if the 
continuity readings show low resistance, the toroids should be well tinned 
and soldered - then check to be certain there is a high resistance to ground 
from these pins - if you find a low resistance, look for solder bridges at 
each of the capacitors and at the toroid leads.


Hope yo find it without much frustration.

73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


I am posting this again.
I have a problem with "HI CUR" On the K160RX
It comes on for a second and then shows .5 watts
regardless of the power setting.
In troubleshooting here is what I have done
I compared in and out of the of the module
with the setup of
Power 1.0 watts setting
I got this with the RF Probe
AT C1 7.5-8.3v
AT L1/C2 9.9-10.3v
At L2/C3 7.5-8.3v
I compared this to 80m
and the results were the same
So The next thing I did was check switching My
switching is ok all the relays are functioning
Next
I pulled the K160RX board out and checked to see if
there may be short across the bottom of the plug for
the module. by comparing the reading from 1 pin to the
rest and so on IE pin 1 to pin 2 pin 3 etc then move
to the next pin I have a descrepency that I cannot
prove or disprove Pin 2 to pin 7,8,9 (input) and
12,13,14 all check short. If I read the schematic
correctly There should not be any direct connection
from pin 2 to 7,8,9 12,13,14 which really puts all
these connections to ground, Correct?
thanks



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Re: [Elecraft] DSP on 60 Meters

[Lyle Johnson]

When I tap DISPLAY and get "S1 nr nt" I hear a raspy tone ticking off the  
seconds.  It is present in any DSP or time mode.  It is loud enough to  be 
annoying.  This phenomenon only occurs on 60 meters.  Has  anyone else experienced 
this?  Is it normal? 


Yes, this is normal.  The KDSP2 pretends to be a real time clock, and 
the K2 does not mute the receiver during auxbus transactions in real 
time clock mode.  So, on certain frequencies you will hear the 
once-per-second raspy tone.


The nice thing is that once the DSP is set up, you don't often need the 
menus.The AFIL button provides 4 filters per mode.


And with firmware 2.04 you have front panel access to toggling the 
denoiser and notch filters without resorting to the menu :-)


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Phase Noise

[John, KI6WX]

Bob;
I have a mod that will reduce the K2 phase noise.  The implementation of the
mod is not easy.   Some of the changes require the ability to measure phase
noise, and most folks don't have this capability.  The mod can also degrade
the PLL stability.  Therefore, I do not plan on publishing the mod.

My work on K2 phase noise has convinced me that the design is pretty close
to the best performance that you can get on this type of oscillator design.

-John
 KI6WX

- Original Message - 
From: "R March" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Has anyone come up with a mod that reduces phase noise on the K2?  Thanks,
> Bob
>


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[Elecraft] SSB low output

[Brian Mury]

Hi all,

I've got a K2/100 with a KSB2 that I've just installed and am trying
out. My mic has an HC-5. I am aware that this element does not have low
output for the K2. I've done the R14 mod, replacing it with a 10K
resistor. It's working better than it was, but I still don't seem to be
getting much more than about 10 watts or so, occasionally a bit more on
peaks, and I have to speak quite loudly to get even this much.

I can get 100 watts by whistling loudly into the mic.

Any suggestions for what to check? Is 10K an ok value for R14?

I'll probably eventually reverse the R14 mod and either do the KI6WX mod
or build a mic preamp. Any thoughts on which is the better solution?

-- 
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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