Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 4498

[F5UL]

. snip ..
We have had several people report that 2SC1969s obtained in EU did not work
well. I don't know why. We use only Mitsubishi brand 2SC1969 transistors,
obtained from RF Parts.
. snip ..

Well Gary I did not have any idea about this 2SC1969 european problem. It's
curious because the one I triyed to use where also Mitsubishi brand but they
where really not working. The drive was the same but the output was max 1.5
w on 80 m and less and less going up in frequency - So I endes up with 6
2sc1969 dead and not output till I received the package from Wayne place !!!

Thank again Gary for your help.
BCNU  72

F5UL/Bob



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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder

[Kevin Rock]

Black Brown R O Y G B V Gray White

I just recognized soil on the bottom with a rainbow in the middle and 
clouds on top.


Then Silver Gold for variance measures.
   Kevin.   KD5ONS



On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 20:44:03 -0700 (PDT), Art - W6KY 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



When I was in the USAF electronics school, we memorized
a limrick in about 2 minutes having to do with a girl named
Violet (7 on the color code). Unfortunately, it is now politically
incorrect to repeat this limrick here, but that 2 minute lesson
has stayed with me for over 40 years. Takes about 5 seconds
to determine the value of a resistor. No need to bring up a
computer program.
73, Art  W6KYK1-4 s/n 1717



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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder

[Art - W6KY]

When I was in the USAF electronics school, we memorized
a limrick in about 2 minutes having to do with a girl named
Violet (7 on the color code). Unfortunately, it is now politically
incorrect to repeat this limrick here, but that 2 minute lesson
has stayed with me for over 40 years. Takes about 5 seconds
to determine the value of a resistor. No need to bring up a
computer program. 
73, Art  W6KYK1-4 s/n 1717


Tony Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
A while back there was a discussion on resistor color coding,
Ran across this link. A freeware program, it's kind of neat. Win XP 
would not run it but it ran on my Win 98 machine.
Check it out at:

www.schematica.com

Tony W7GO
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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder

[Tony Morgan]

OK,
Now runs on my XP machine also, just had to re-boot it. 
: )


Tony W7GO
- Original Message - 
From: "Tony Morgan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 6:51 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder



A while back there was a discussion on resistor color coding,
Ran across this link. A freeware program, it's kind of neat. Win XP 
would not run it but it ran on my Win 98 machine.

Check it out at:

www.schematica.com

Tony W7GO
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Re:[2] [Elecraft] (OT) Baking PC boards in the toaster oven...

[Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD]

I debated whether to wade into this thread I started, since it's not really an 
Elecraft-related item, but then after thinking about the Elecraft culture and 
mindset, and one of the main concepts that's made the company prosper on many 
levels... bucking conventional wisdom... I just had to (re-)chime in here.

I'm not planning to forget about any real experimenting and prototyping, but 
I'm also not prepared to spend BIG bucks on equipment and large production 
runs!  That's hardly the amateur way, is it??  I'm a firm believer in the I 
have done so much with so little for so long, that now I feel qualified to do 
anything with nothing mentality, and when somebody mentions a novel approach, 
even if it's a far-from-perfect answer, I'll weigh the pros and cons of it 
before dismissing it out of hand.

Face it, thru-hole parts are rapidly going the way of tubes and terminal 
strips, and while they're not gone yet, they _are_ getting harder to find, and 
when found, can cost considerably more than their SMT counterparts.

And we hams, if we wish to continue our engineering endeavors, will have to 
adapt, figuring out ways of building stuff withOUT spending 4-figure sums on 
equipment to solder parts to boards.

--
72, Ron McDowell - W5RCM / ZS1MCD
w5rcm at volente dot us
Austin TX / Hermanus ZA

Henry Gardiner wrote:
..
>   For experimenters, it makes much more sense to stick with the larger 
> smt sizes and solder them in by hand with a soldering iron and 
> hand-held solder.
>
> Henry AC5LA

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Re: [Elecraft] QRP activity from SM-land

[John Harper AE5X]

I worked Hans a short while ago on 20m. He was using his KX1 and I was 
mobile (but parked) with my DSW and hamstick whip. We exchanged 539 reports.


Continually amazed by QRP,

John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com




- Original Message - 
From: "LA2MOA" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 8:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP activity from SM-land


Anyone who needs to work Sweden 2xQRP? I will be QRV as SM/LA2MOA
tonight from abt 1600 UTC to 2200 UTC and the same times also
tomorrow, on 20, 30 and 40M. Frequencys will be 14060, 10116 and 7030
(+/- QRM of course). If 17M is open I will have a try there between
16-17 UTC today and tomorrow.

Rig: K1 and KX1
Ant: 5 el @ 25 meters for 20M and dipoles @ 15 meters for other
frequencys.

72/3!

Hans / LA2MOA
K1 #1992
KX1 #975

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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder

["RC" KC5WA]

I just down loaded it and worked fine on my Win XP system
"rc" kc5wa

Tony Morgan wrote:


A while back there was a discussion on resistor color coding,
Ran across this link. A freeware program, it's kind of neat. Win XP 
would not run it but it ran on my Win 98 machine.

Check it out at:

www.schematica.com

Tony W7GO




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[Elecraft] Resistor Color Coder

[Tony Morgan]

A while back there was a discussion on resistor color coding,
Ran across this link. A freeware program, it's kind of neat. Win XP 
would not run it but it ran on my Win 98 machine.

Check it out at:

www.schematica.com

Tony W7GO
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[Elecraft] Bird 43 service

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Hi folks:
I'm going to build the 100w amp this summer, and need to get my Bird 43 
wattmeter working. Its intermittent on the pickup--I've tried cleaning all 
surfaces and plugs with alcohol. Perhaps the pickup element (I think it has 
one) is faulty? Any suggestions as to servicing this unit, or to whom to send 
it, or how to check the plugs (all used equipment). I'd like to see this thing 
working reliably before beginning work on the Elecraft amp. Off reflector 
replies OK! Thanks.
Ted WB3AVD
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[Elecraft] WTD: Norcal Cascade Manual

[Andy GM0NWI]

Hey Guy's...

I'm looking for a spare copy of the "Norcal Cascade" manual... if anyone has 
a copy that they could snail mail... or .pdf for meI'd be real 
pleased,..also can pay for any copying and postage...

Anyone who can help...e-mail to address below... TIA..!

Andy
GM0NWI
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  "...I Just See It.!.."  John A. Ross
(RSD Communications circa 2004)
A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP   "..It is vain to do with
more "A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
"K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Air"what can be done with
less.. In The Northern Hemisphere..."

GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA)
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061
ICQ No.31899603


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count my $

[Stan Rife]

Well, lets see...I never had a Corvette, a Collins or a Piper
Comanche, and I've only owned one new car in my lifetime. 
My first rig was a Tempo One that was a few years old when I bought
it for around 200 bucks in 1976. I bought a used NCL-2000 for 400 bucks a
year or so later, and then had to spend some time inside it to get it
working.
Anything I buy over a thousand bucks or so, I have to finance. I
hope Elecraft doesn't price themselves out of most of our pocketbooks. It's
hell to be poor, but hey, somebody's got to do it. 

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 

-Original Message-
From: Bob Rennard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


My 75S-3B cost about 1/8th of what my 1969 Corvette cost.  So, I should be
able to buy a nice receiver today for about $6,000.  A 30S-1 cost about 1/3
of what the Corvette cost, so I should be able to buy a new amplifier today
for about $17,000.  However, getting this approved by the family CFO is
going to be a challenge.

I used to enjoy servicing my Corvette, rebuilding the carburetor, giving it
a tune up, etc.  I would not even consider it today.  The only way I can
enjoy putting my skills to work today, given that my time constraints have
gotten tighter, is by building a new Elecraft, or upgrading what I have.
Sweat equity, whether it is on the bench, or in the antenna farm produces as
much enjoyment to me as snagging a rare call sign at "reasonable" power.

I laud Elecraft for re-vitalizing the hobby, but I think I'll put the
KPA-100 back on the K2 if I need it.

N7WY
- Original Message -
From: "Philip L Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Well let's see.  My first rig was a Collins S-line in the 1960s.  It cost
> about $1700 then.  What would that money buy me now as far as radios go?
Oh
> yes, the Piper Comanche B was less than $50,000 and a car was around
$2500.
>
> As I recall not seeing, it hasn't been announced yet.  Isn't everyone
> (including me) jumping the gun a little?
>
>
> NRE/COLE Test Center OH-3
> pcartergcfn.org or wd8qwrarrl.net
> Philip L. Carter, WD8QWR
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[VR2BrettGraham]

N6XI added:


I don't think the Elecraft amp is targetting the budget end of the
market. You can't do that with a solid state amp - tubes are still a
decidedly cheaper way to go high power. This amp is really two
separate products - a very light, yet high quality expedition amp and
a state-of-the-art, full power, fully automated home station amp
capable of "SO2R1A." (That's running two transceivers with a single,
time-shared amp.) I believe it will be competing initially in a field
of one in both categories.


Perhaps out-of-the-box field-of-one.

A transfer relay & a little band switching logic can make any
solid-state amp suitable for SO2R1A - just watch the duty cycle.

Full power, of course, is somewhat relative - for much of the world
market, many existing solid-state amps are already somewhat like
Alphas - capable of a number of dB more than one is allowed & not
break a sweat.

Amplifiers are products where I have felt the multiplier from BOM
to MSRP is hard to justify, as there is little room for adding apparent
value.  One of these is output matching - after years of driving my
Ten-Tec 420E (export Hercules II) into ugly loads, I'm tempted to
say I wish Elecraft current-limited the transistors too & not add
cost to the product for something not exactly necessary.  Or, since
the K2 is like this, could it be that any fancy output matching is an
option one could leave out?  Wish we knew more.  Between now &
Dayton the design will not change if the product is to go into
production soon.  A frustrating little tease for those who are right
now in the process of, or could be induced into making a purchase
decision.  ;^)

73, VR2BrettGraham

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RE: [Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?

[Fraser Robertson]

Mike, here's the low down on A vs B modes.  73 Fraser G4BJM

http://jacksonharbor.home.att.net/modeab.pdf


From: Mike Markowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 09:20:26 -0400

Can someone point me to a web page or enlighten me as to what are iambic
modes A and B, as shown on the K2 menus?


_
Be the first to hear what's new at MSN - sign up to our free newsletters! 
http://www.msn.co.uk/newsletters


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RE: Re: [Elecraft] Hex Key cover

[jmeade]

I have been patiently waiting 2 months for my HexKey cover from Ernesto.  He
just told me that he will ship it out this week.  I hope so!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] (email)

www dot cwkeysdustcovers dot com

73,

John W2XS

HexKey #113
KX1 #15
Balun (2)
XG1
N-gen
BL1
DL1
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Re: [Elecraft] Mt Everest!

[Sandy]

I MUJST agree with you Mike!  My K1 had been a wonderful box!  It has even
amazed me more since I built a 160/80 meter board for it!
If the MUF EVER goes up again, I'd like to build a 17/10 meter board for it,
10 meters not being a "standard" K1 band!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
K1 #1178   (After having been through Ten Tec modules, PM2, PM-3, "Argonaut",
Heathkit HW-7/HW-8/HW-9)  K1 tops them all on CW!
- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Morrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mt Everest!


| Paul wrote:
|
| > Is the KX1 the coolest, smallest, most enjoyment ever put
| > into a tiny box? You bet!
|
| The K1 gets my vote for this honor.
|
| >...men need to climb Mt. Everest - "because it's there"
|
| Speaking of famous mountains vs. Elecraft, how about naming the Elecraft next 
rig
the "Nanga Parbat?"  I saw "Seven Years In Tibet" some time ago, and it seems 
to me a
great name for a radio, or a cat.  Heck, maybe that's what I'll start calling my
beloved K1 right now (no cat).
|
| 73,
| Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[DK Duncan]

>>I think the folks at Aptos are responding to the
>>market.
>>
>What's APTOS?


Aptos, CA is a small town on the pacific coast just south
of Santa Cruz, CA.  Elecraft is located there.



~Don

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RE: [Elecraft] K2-CW-Filter-Response: is that ok?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Look at it this way. You're using a 700 Hz pitch with a 1.5 kHz wide filter.
If you center the 700 Hz in the filter bandpass, the bandpass will extend
750 Hz above and 750 Hz below the 700 Hz beat frequency. That puts your
carrier zero beat 50 Hz inside the bandpass so you can hear a beat note on
the "wrong" side of the carrier. The skirts of the filter response will let
you hear beat notes well beyond the 750 Hz edge of the bandpass. 

Vic's suggestion to move the bandpass "up" away from the carrier frequency
is exactly the thing to do. Make sure the lower-frequency cutoff point is
above the carrier frequency to ensure you still get "single-signal" (or
"single sideband") reception. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Mt Everest!

[Mike Morrow]

Paul wrote:

> Is the KX1 the coolest, smallest, most enjoyment ever put 
> into a tiny box? You bet! 

The K1 gets my vote for this honor. 
 
>...men need to climb Mt. Everest - "because it's there"

Speaking of famous mountains vs. Elecraft, how about naming the Elecraft next 
rig the "Nanga Parbat?"  I saw "Seven Years In Tibet" some time ago, and it 
seems to me a great name for a radio, or a cat.  Heck, maybe that's what I'll 
start calling my beloved K1 right now (no cat).

73,
Mike / KK5F
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RE: [Elecraft] (OT) Baking PC boards in the toaster oven...

[EricJ]

 

-Original Message-

   Unless you want to buy good equipment, you will be inspecting every
joint, doing a lot of touch up and replacing fried components.  You'll have
a lot of field failures from intermittent joints.  Toaster ovens don't make
sense.  Single cavity ovens could be made to work well if there's a lot of
moving air and if the walls of the oven and the air can be kept very close
to the temperature profile, including the cool-down phase.

[Hams aren't switching to SMTs to avoid having to inspect every board. We
will still have to do that with SMTs no matter how we install them.]


   For experimenters, it makes much more sense to stick with the larger smt
sizes and solder them in by hand with a soldering iron and hand-held solder.

[Technical hobbies don't advance by doing what "makes more sense." They
often advance when some wacky guy commandeers the family toaster oven to
solder parts and doesn't burn the house down...or poison them all with lead
exposure.]

Henry AC5LA

[Thanks for the background info, Henry. I never even realized such equipment
was used until one of the Elecrafters mentioned the toaster oven idea. There
was another article in Circuit Cellar magazine that said commercial ovens
also use infrared as well as air convection ovens. All in all, it is pretty
amazing technology. It's something I want to try just because it's...well,
just because.

Eric
KE6US


  

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RE: [Elecraft] KW Amp

[EricJ]

 ...and comes higher resale value for us. Pictures in QST of the latest high
buck Dxpedition running Elecraft K2's and KAMPS on the beaches of
Kantgettherefromhea Island will sell a lot of Elecraft gear and make my K1
and K2 more valuable. 

It's all about generating a buzz...Marketing 101.

Eric
KE6US

-Original Message-

And with respect, comes sales, comes profit.

Steve, W2MY


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Re: [Elecraft] Hex Key cover

[Rick Tavan N6XI]

He told me he required a postal money order, no checks. I'll probably
go ahead and send him one the next time I have more urgent need to
stand in the endless line at the PO.

/Rick N6XI 


> >I sent a check to Puerto Rico for a Hex Key cover and never received
> >it.
> > Does anyone have his email?  Unfortunately I lost it in a computer
> > crash.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Philip LaMarche
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Re: [Elecraft] K2-CW-Filter-Response: is that ok?

[Vic Rosenthal]

Karsten Eppert(DK4AS) wrote:

I have set the wide CW-Filter (Fil1) to 1,5 and aligned the BFO to a 
pitch of 700 Hz. I applied HF of constant frequency to the 
receiver-input with a signal strength that generated S9+10 db max. and 
plotted the S-meter versus variation of the VFO from high pitch to low 
pitch in 100 hz-steps. So I could determine a filter-curve. What strikes 
me is, that even at very low pitch-frequencies there is hardly 
attenuation and even at zero beat the S-meter still shows approx. S3. 
Turning the VFO "behind" zero-beat lets the S-meter decrease but it 
takes another 300 Hz until S0 is reached. The tone of the "wrong" 
sideband remains audible at even higher frequencies.


There's probably nothing wrong with your filter.  If you wish to have a wide CW 
filter setting, you should locate the BFO during the CAL FIL adjustment so that 
the filter passband is higher with respect to zero beat.  If you use Spectrogram 
-- see  -- you can see this graphically.


With correct adjustment, you should not hear any signal on the 'wrong' side of 
zero beat.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] Calling Brad Wyatt, K6WR

[Julian, G4ILO]

Brad.

I don't know if you are a member of this reflector, but you recently 
sent me three emails asking questions about K2Net, so it's possible. I 
tried to reply, but my messages were bounced with the error: "550 You 
are not permitted to send mail" so I guess that, as in real QRP life, I 
am just too weak to work you.


73,
--
Julian, G4ILO
G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo

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[Elecraft] Re: KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[Jim Harris]

Well, whether I would buy the KPA800 for $2.8K depends
on the bells and whistles list.  And, whether there
are toroids to wind and prep.my eyes and nose is
still trying to recover from the burning enamel
insulation from over a month ago.  The winding wasn't
bad just the fumes...anyone have an MSDS on the
enamel?

It might be interesting to note that Ameritron has a
600 watt solid state amp with power supply for $1300
including a newly released switching power supply.  (I
believe that includes shipping from HRO.)  It does not
have many bells and whistles.  As a minimum you would
need to add another $500-$600 for a tuner.  So it
looks like $2.8K for 800 watts with all the goodies
might be a somewhat reasonable ball park price. 

However, that is getting into the region that only the
dedicated and financially able ham will consider.  Not
sure how many are going to be sold to the rank and
file ham.  That begs another question as to where
Elecraft is going and it's future if they are going to
target the elite of the hobby.  I'm sure some soul
searching has gone on by the good folks in Aptos. 
Marketing is always ahead of a product in making a
successful company.

It will be interesting to see how all this will play
out over the next 2-3 years.  I really enjoy my K2. 
But, this gives me a desire to pause and see what
happens.

Jim, AB0UK
K2, S/N 4787

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Re: [Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?

[David A.Belsley]

Mike:  This is not a quirk; it is a manifestation of a feature of the 
K2.  In order to allow one to use both iambic and straight keys at the 
same time, Wayne has programmed the keyer chip to give a continuous 
dash if both sides are closed at exactly the same time.  There is a 
small circuit, using two diodes, given in the manual that allows a 
straight key to do this, and thus act like a straight key.  It is 
possible, then, when using an iambic key to hit both paddles just right 
to cause this to happen.  If you are not using a straight key, you can 
turn this feature off in one of the menus.  I don't have my manual with 
me at the moment, so I can't lead you directly to the menu item, but it 
shouldn't be very hard to figure out.  I think (but don't hold me to 
it) it is in the secondary menu.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy



On Apr 26, 2005, at 9:43 AM, Mike Markowski wrote:


David A. Belsley wrote on 04/26/05 09:28 ET:

Mike:
   This issue comes up with some regularity on this reflector.  Allow 
me

to repeat a message I sent on this matter some time back: [...]


Thanks very much, Dave!

I forgot to ask one more question, this one more about the keyer than
the modes.  Every now & then when I squeeze both paddles I don't get
alternating dits and dahs, just a continuous tone for as long as I hold
them.  Is it a quirk of the keyer or a feature of some sort?

Mike AB3AP
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005, Nigel KC8NHF/G8IFF wrote:


J F wrote:


I agree with this Dave. Like many other things, it is
"easy" whereas antenna improvements generally require
thought and work. 
But remember that, you spending a fortune on a big amplifier isn't going to 
help you to hear the other weak station.
It just frustrates the other station because he can easily hear you and you 
not hear him. He then brands you as having a lousy receive setup.


Sometimes you need more power to talk to the alligators.

Shouldn't we have the choice to turn up the power?

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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Re: [Elecraft] KW Amp Prices

[Jim Brown]

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 22:45:50 -0700, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

>Suppose you have a couple of hundred watts and you are trying to work DX on 
>160 
>meters.  There will be lots of times that you call a station and he simply 
>doesn't hear you.  If you are just below the noise level at his location, a 
>couple of DB may put you just over, and you will be heard.  You can work a lot 
>of DX with low power, but that doesn't mean that there's no value in higher 
power.

Exactly. I live in the middle of Chicago, where I have rather limited antennas 
AND a high noise level. I can work 160 with 100 watts, and have worked all but 
two of the lower 48 with 100 watts), but the extra 10 dB provided by a Titan 
amp 
that I bought last summer increased my score in the ARRL 160 test 
significantly, 
and made it a lot more fun. The only way I could improve my antenna system here 
is to buy the houses on both sides of mine and put up towers to hold an 
antenna. 
Ya got an extra $2 Million laying around? 

In February, I worked a 160 contest from W6BX with 100 watts and a nice 
antenna. 
There, I worked 47 states in a weekend, as well as JA and D4B. But I could work 
a 
guy in RI that I could hear quite well, simply because he had the same sort of 
high noise level that I have at nome. Another 6-10 dB would have made it for 
us. 

Another point. When I try to work DX on 80 or 40 with 100 watts, we exchange 
signal reports and maybe our names, and we're done -- the copy is too rough to 
do 
more. When I do it with the Titan on-line, the guy on the other end wants to 
chat, and we can get to know each other. 

I am confident that whatever prices Wayne and Eric establish for their amps 
will 
be fair, and when I have time, I will build one or both. The cost of our kits 
includes far more than the parts -- good engineering takes time, the designs 
and 
circuit layouts must be built and tested, manuals must be written, parts must 
be 
chosen with an eye toward longevity, we want tech support, and 20 years from 
now 
we would like to be able to fix the amp when something goes wrong. 

Ten Tec has built some pretty decent amplfiers at fair prices, and I own three 
of 
them. 20 years later, the amps are still in fine shape and good values, but try 
to find replacement tubes or output transistors for some of them. Those 
decisions 
alone take time, a lot of judgement, and a well-polished crystal ball. And you 
never know when a major manufacturer is going to cut your knees out from 
underneath you (like Motorola and Eimac both did to Ten Tec). 

Don't get me wrong -- QRP is fun, and I enjoy it. But it is not the ONLY way to 
enjoy ham radio. And there is a LOT more to the cost of a sophisticated product 
like what we buy from Elecraft than meets the eye. 



Jim Brown  K9YC


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RE: [Elecraft] AA lithium batteries & K2...

[Masleid, Michael A.]

Hi Bill,

The battery is only good for 2 watt hours.  So six of them does 12 watt hours.
If you pull 10 amps at 12 volts for 1 hour, that is 120 watt hours, so the 
battery
will last for 1/10 of an hour.  That's 6 minutes of talk time.

A couple of things go wrong though - the voltage will drop to 3 x 3.25 volts = 
9.75
at 5 A per cell, which is too low I think, but 4 in series will make 16.3 volts 
open
circuit, which is too high I think.

73, AB9GV  

>This has me examining how to Pelicanize my portable setup.
>Maybe I will go with the k2/100 kat100. I loose only the battery, which 
>these little Tadiran Batteries could supply at SMALL SPACE cost.(for qrp op 
>only).

>bill


>>   5-A continuous discharge would feed my ATS-3 very well ;)  I could put 
>> 6 of them is series-parallel to work for quite a spell.
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Baking PC boards in the toaster oven...

[Larry Phipps]

All that is undoubtedly true... but if you still want to try it, I would 
think you would get better results with a convection kind of toaster oven.


Larry N8LP



Henry Gardiner wrote:

  SMT soldering was designed to obtain high volume and high quality 
solder joints with great uniformity so that detailed inspection and 
rework are not necessary.  It does this at considerable investment 
expense up front.
  The paste solder must be applied in a precise amount.  This means a 
stencil printer (most use optical alignment) and multi-hundred dollar 
stencils, or a robot that applies dabs in precisely metered amounts.  
Hand application will not work adequately.  Smear the solder on those 
narrow smt ics even slightly and a solder short results.  Not enough 
solder, and the lead won't wet.  Too much, and the joints short or are 
hard to inspect.  You end up with the extra step of inspecting every 
joint (which is not done often in the industry) and doing a lot of 
touch-up by hand.
  Then the component must be placed precisely on the pads of solder 
without lateral motion that would smear the solder and cause solder 
joint problems.  In industry, robots do this at high speed and 
precision using software that determines from coordinates and optics 
where to put each component.  Just about impossible to do by hand 
unaided at any speed.  But a person could rig up some very slow manual 
pick and place device.
  Circuit boards that have been sitting around for months start to 
lose their wettability.  This adversely affects the uniformity of the 
solder joints.  The high volume of a factory provides considerable 
protection against this problem.
  Most smt ovens heat the air and blow the air around the boards at 
high volume.  Compared to radiant heating this provides much better 
regulation of component temperature-time profiles despite differences 
in component colors and geometries, and the biggest factor, the 
thermal mass of the circuit board itself.  The circuit board forms 
half the joint.
  To obtain the temperature vs time profile needed, most factory smt 
ovens are actually a chain of several ovens connected together 
linearly over a moving belt.  Each oven operates stabilized and 
uniform at a different point in the temperature profile.
  Unless you want to buy good equipment, you will be inspecting every 
joint, doing a lot of touch up and replacing fried components.  You'll 
have a lot of field failures from intermittent joints.  Toaster ovens 
don't make sense.  Single cavity ovens could be made to work well if 
there's a lot of moving air and if the walls of the oven and the air 
can be kept very close to the temperature profile, including the 
cool-down phase.
  For experimenters, it makes much more sense to stick with the larger 
smt sizes and solder them in by hand with a soldering iron and 
hand-held solder.


Henry AC5LA


 


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[Chris]

The Dx Convention special event station was putting out a good signal.

N6V from memory.

I was their first Dx contact - There seemed to be a crowd around the 
operating position and I mentioned that I was running a K2. How's that 
for advertising?


Chris - VP8BKF

Earl W Cunningham wrote:


Philip, WD8QWR wrote:

"As I recall not seeing, it hasn't been announced yet.  Isn't everyone
(including me) jumping the gun a little?"
==
No one is jumping the gun (except for price speculation).  It was
announced and shown by Eric at the Elecraft booth in Visalia during the
weekend of the DX convention there April 15-17, 2005.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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Re: [Elecraft] Hex Key cover

[Bruce Bowman]

I haven't lost faith yet. You might try this [EMAIL PROTECTED] which 
is the address he used when he sent me an update (4/15) that my order 
was about to ship. He indicated he does them in batches. Based on his 
notes it sounds like the turnaround is about 4 weeks and my order 
happened to arrive (3/26) when he was starting another batch. Maybe your 
timing wasn't so fortunate.

He has a new web site at http://cwkeysdustcovers.com/ which is very much 
like the old one. I saw a page there to ask for info or send a note (as 
he had on the old site).

Bruce, NM5B
Santa Fe, NM

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil LaMarche" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 7:57 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Hex Key cover


>I sent a check to Puerto Rico for a Hex Key cover and never received 
>it.
> Does anyone have his email?  Unfortunately I lost it in a computer 
> crash.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Philip LaMarche
> Instant Gourmet
> LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
> www.instantgourmetspices.com
> 727-944-3226
> 727-937-8834 Fax
> 727-510-5038 Cell
> NASFT # 30210
> W9DVM
>
>
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> 


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[Elecraft] (OT) Baking PC boards in the toaster oven...

[Henry Gardiner]

  SMT soldering was designed to obtain high volume and high quality solder 
joints with great uniformity so that detailed inspection and rework are not 
necessary.  It does this at considerable investment expense up front.
  The paste solder must be applied in a precise amount.  This means a 
stencil printer (most use optical alignment) and multi-hundred dollar 
stencils, or a robot that applies dabs in precisely metered amounts.  Hand 
application will not work adequately.  Smear the solder on those narrow smt 
ics even slightly and a solder short results.  Not enough solder, and the 
lead won't wet.  Too much, and the joints short or are hard to 
inspect.  You end up with the extra step of inspecting every joint (which 
is not done often in the industry) and doing a lot of touch-up by hand.
  Then the component must be placed precisely on the pads of solder 
without lateral motion that would smear the solder and cause solder joint 
problems.  In industry, robots do this at high speed and precision using 
software that determines from coordinates and optics where to put each 
component.  Just about impossible to do by hand unaided at any speed.  But 
a person could rig up some very slow manual pick and place device.
  Circuit boards that have been sitting around for months start to lose 
their wettability.  This adversely affects the uniformity of the solder 
joints.  The high volume of a factory provides considerable protection 
against this problem.
  Most smt ovens heat the air and blow the air around the boards at high 
volume.  Compared to radiant heating this provides much better regulation 
of component temperature-time profiles despite differences in component 
colors and geometries, and the biggest factor, the thermal mass of the 
circuit board itself.  The circuit board forms half the joint.
  To obtain the temperature vs time profile needed, most factory smt ovens 
are actually a chain of several ovens connected together linearly over a 
moving belt.  Each oven operates stabilized and uniform at a different 
point in the temperature profile.
  Unless you want to buy good equipment, you will be inspecting every 
joint, doing a lot of touch up and replacing fried components.  You'll have 
a lot of field failures from intermittent joints.  Toaster ovens don't make 
sense.  Single cavity ovens could be made to work well if there's a lot of 
moving air and if the walls of the oven and the air can be kept very close 
to the temperature profile, including the cool-down phase.
  For experimenters, it makes much more sense to stick with the larger smt 
sizes and solder them in by hand with a soldering iron and hand-held solder.


Henry AC5LA


 


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[Elecraft] K2-CW-Filter-Response: is that ok?

[Karsten Eppert(DK4AS)]

I have set the wide CW-Filter (Fil1) to 1,5 and aligned the BFO to a 
pitch of 700 Hz. I applied HF of constant frequency to the 
receiver-input with a signal strength that generated S9+10 db max. and 
plotted the S-meter versus variation of the VFO from high pitch to low 
pitch in 100 hz-steps. So I could determine a filter-curve. What strikes 
me is, that even at very low pitch-frequencies there is hardly 
attenuation and even at zero beat the S-meter still shows approx. S3. 
Turning the VFO "behind" zero-beat lets the S-meter decrease but it 
takes another 300 Hz until S0 is reached. The tone of the "wrong" 
sideband remains audible at even higher frequencies.


In real amateur life this means, that strong near-by stations close to 
zero-beat still affect the AGC considerably.




My question is: is that typical for the cw-filter-design of the k2 or is 
something wrong with my device? Do I have any method to check, if 
something is dead or badly installed?


By the way: I did the same kind of plot with the Filter of the 
SSB-Adapter (OP1). Result: perfect.




Karsten

DK4AS

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[Elecraft] QRO vs QRP; speculation

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Let's end the thread of QRO vs QRP and whether amps (at any price) are 
necessary. We're taking up way too much list bandwidth on this topic and several 
posts have bordered on attacking other posters, which is outside the list 
guidelines..


There are good arguments for each type of operation (QRO/QRP) with strong fans 
in both camps. Many of our customers operate at both power levels. And to be 
honest, to survive as a profitable enterprise in this market, we have to address 
the QRP -and- the QRO markets.


We haven't 'officially' announced anything in this category.  We'll make sure to 
post here when we are ready :-)


73, Eric   WA6HHQ


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[Earl W Cunningham]

Philip, WD8QWR wrote:

"As I recall not seeing, it hasn't been announced yet.  Isn't everyone
(including me) jumping the gun a little?"
==
No one is jumping the gun (except for price speculation).  It was
announced and shown by Eric at the Elecraft booth in Visalia during the
weekend of the DX convention there April 15-17, 2005.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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Re: [Elecraft] New Amp: Mt Everest!

[paul hendershott]

I don't see the point in debating the "Meaning of Elecraft" between the Qrp and 
Qro crowds. I think Elecraft is evolving and growing to meet the needs of ALL 
hams. Does a K2/100 not work as perfectly as a K2? Is the KX1 the coolest, 
smallest, most enjoyment ever put into a tiny box? You bet! 
 
I happen to love Qrp. I like a 100 watts as well. Do I need an 800 watt or 1500 
watt amp with autotuner? OF COURSE I do! I need it because it would be fun to 
have it when conditions are abysmal. I need it because it will be yet another 
wonderful piece of Elecraft designed ham equipment that will yield countless 
hours of soldering enjoyment. I need it for the same reasons that men need to 
climb Mt. Everest - "because it's there!".  Will I probably have to donate a 
kidney to afford it? Absolutely! 
 
Now here's the great part - Buy it and build it for the fun of it and then Sell 
it if you have to! I bet you could charge a $500 premium to sell the hottest 
Amp on the market that will work with every rig out there! I imagine folks will 
be lining up for these babies. Anyway, Kudos to Elecraft for stepping up to the 
plate with their ingenuity, flare, and their dedication to become the major 
force that they are in ham equipment for All hams!

73
Paul
W9BBR

 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] AA lithium batteries & K2...

[Bill NY9H]

I am always looking at alternative ways to haul my k2/pelican around
I have been using the internal battery, & tuner qrp 15 watts...

However, last trip on a boat, I encountered a guy with a 706 and the small 
MFJ switcher PS.  He DID have AC available and with questionable band 
conditions, and when we could operate (ship's facilities available)  the 
choice was easy USE THE POWER.


This has me examining how to Pelicanize my portable setup.
Maybe I will go with the k2/100 kat100. I loose only the battery, which 
these little Tadiran Batteries could supply at SMALL SPACE cost.(for qrp op 
only).
I will have the added space requirement for the kat100+MFJ+battpak, less 
the present small switcher PS for recharging. I think this pile will fit in 
my current PelicanI wonder about charging those Tadirans.

Am I missing something

bill

he wrote:
  5-A continuous discharge would feed my ATS-3 very well ;)  I could put 
6 of them is series-parallel to work for quite a spell.




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RE: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with short whip antennas?

[Aron Brown]

I also have found that the Maldol whip is capable of making contacts. What I
have done to solve the problem of possibly breaking the BNC from the board
is to use a auto window mount I bought at HRO. I attach this either by a
vice grip or clamp to the deck or table and run the coax to the KX1. Works
great. Got St Croix and England using this setup.


Aron
NN1F
Bedford, NH
FP#122
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Babineau
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 8:52 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with short whip antennas?

Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote :

 > The Maldol 20M whip is fine with a radial 10-16ft and a 1ft or so 
piece
 > of bus wire clipped to the top with an alligator clip, at any angle.  
I
 > worked Florida from Toronto on vacation twice with that antenna, 
acting
 > on Wayne N6KR's lead.

Likewise, I have worked France with a similar setup from Maine, but ...
as someone else mentioned one has to be very careful to avoid damaging
the PCB as the BNC is directly mounted to the board.

Martin, for portable operations you will have much better luck with a 
longer wire.
The KXAT1 was optimized for the recommended 24 to 28 ft wire and will 
load
this with a decent SWR and pretty good performance on 40M / 30M / 20M 
with a
reasonable ground. This will give you better and more consistent 
performance than
a short loaded whip.

For bike mobile I would recommend that you try a  Hamstick. They are 
cheap
and on 20M especially, performance is not too bad.

I have also had pretty good luck using a 14ft linear loaded wire 
attached to a 13 ft telescopic
fishing pole for Pedestrian mobile operations with a 30ft trailing 
counterpoise wire.

Michael VE3WMB 

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[Elecraft] Hex Key cover

[Phil LaMarche]

I sent a check to Puerto Rico for a Hex Key cover and never received it.
Does anyone have his email?  Unfortunately I lost it in a computer crash.

Thanks.

Philip LaMarche
Instant Gourmet
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell
NASFT # 30210
W9DVM


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Re: [Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?

[Mike Markowski]

David A. Belsley wrote on 04/26/05 09:28 ET:
> Mike:
>This issue comes up with some regularity on this reflector.  Allow me
> to repeat a message I sent on this matter some time back: [...]

Thanks very much, Dave!

I forgot to ask one more question, this one more about the keyer than
the modes.  Every now & then when I squeeze both paddles I don't get
alternating dits and dahs, just a continuous tone for as long as I hold
them.  Is it a quirk of the keyer or a feature of some sort?

Mike AB3AP
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[Elecraft] KW Amp

[Steven Pituch]

Hi all,

As long as we are all pre-supposing this thing because we can't _wait_ for
the official announcement...

Perhaps Elecraft is producing this for "International Repsect".  QRP'rs all
recognized early on that Elecraft products were the best.  When the K2/100
came along, some, but not all, contesters and Dxpeditioners were converted.
But think of how many hams would be convinced that Elecraft was the best if
they produced the best amplifier ever made---better than any ETO.  Now hams
from all parts of the hobby would finally have their own reasons to
recognize Elecraft as the best along with Collins, ETO, Heathkit, or
whatever their highest standard is.  For whatever reason, Elecraft would
have finally given every ham something to consider as being the best.

And with respect, comes sales, comes profit.

Steve, W2MY


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.3 - Release Date: 4/25/2005
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?

[David A.Belsley]

Mike:
   This issue comes up with some regularity on this reflector.  Allow 
me to repeat a message I sent on this matter some time back:


Iambic modes A vs. B:

 The difference has to do with what happens after you release an iambic 
condition.  An iambic condition is where the dot and dash paddles are 
held simultaneously (i.e., squeezed).  You can approach the iambic 
condition two ways: dot first and dash first.  "Dot first" means you 
start with the dot paddle and follow immediately with the dash while 
holding the dot, so there is some time when they are held together.  
"Dash first" is the same when starting with the dash.  Most chips are 
designed so that one or the other of these conditions is always 
recognized (i.e., it is not possible to hit them at exactly the same 
time).  [Note: because of the way the K2 is designed to accommodate a 
straight key mode, it does recognize a truly simultaneous hit, which 
could sometimes cause problems.  If, however, you are not using the 
straight key mode, you can turn this feature off in one of the menus.]


 Both modes usually have what is called 'auto complete.'  That is, even 
if you release the iambic condition before it is complete, it will not 
just stop where you let up, but will continue to finish off the 
character. Thus, in iambic A mode, if you start with a dash, hit the 
dot before the dash is complete (while still holding the dash -- that 
makes the iambic condition), and then release both paddles before the 
initial dash is finished, the keyer will nevertheless complete the dash 
and send the dot, thus sending the letter N.  Likewise, if you start 
with a dot, hit dash (without releasing the dot), then release both, 
the keyer will send a complete dot and dash, thus sending the letter A.


 Iambic mode B differs from the foregoing in that, under exactly the 
same conditions as above it will add an element to the character that 
is opposite the last element.  Thus, under the conditions described 
above for the letter N, since the last element was a dot (you started 
with a dash), a dash will be added to produce dash dot dash, i.e., the 
letter K.  And under the conditions described above for the letter A, a 
dot will be added to produce dot dash dot, i.e., the letter R.  Thus, 
in iambic B mode, an element is actually added to the character that 
was never explicitly sent. A single squeeze starting with the dot will 
produce R and a single squeeze starting with the dash will produce K.  
To produce N in this mode, you start with the dash, but then you must 
lift the dash paddle before hitting the dot.  This does not mean you 
must wait for the dash to complete before hitting the dot, just that 
you must not allow the dot to hit while the dash paddle is still down.  
If you hit the dash, let up and hit the dot all before the dash is 
complete, the 'auto complete' feature will in fact produce a perfect N. 
 The K will not be sent because an iambic condition was never 
established in this sequence of events.


 Some find the "addition" feature of B mode to be disconcerting.  
Others find is a real benefit.  I, personally, began with A mode on a 
CMOS III keyer, which is very good.  I found it very difficult, 
however, to grow accustomed to the A mode on the K2 keyer, and, 
strangely, found it much easier to master the K2's B mode.  Now it is 
by far my favorite keyer. It's your call.  I would simply try them each 
for a short while, get a quick idea which has the greater promise for 
your style of sending, and then stick with your pick (either one).  You 
will eventually learn it fb.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy


On Apr 26, 2005, at 9:20 AM, Mike Markowski wrote:

Can someone point me to a web page or enlighten me as to what are 
iambic

modes A and B, as shown on the K2 menus?  A google search brings up
keyers, but I haven't found a page with definitions yet.  Contrary to
what the K2 manual says, I find the timing on mode A to be much tighter
than mode B.  In mode A, when I try to put out a letter 'C' I more 
often

send either CT or K.  Mode B seems easier, probably because it has a
feel much more like the Ten Tec keyer I've been used to prior to
building my K2.  In any case I'm curious as to just what the different
modes are.

Thanks!
Mike  AB3AP
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[Elecraft] Iambic mode A vs B?

[Mike Markowski]

Can someone point me to a web page or enlighten me as to what are iambic
modes A and B, as shown on the K2 menus?  A google search brings up
keyers, but I haven't found a page with definitions yet.  Contrary to
what the K2 manual says, I find the timing on mode A to be much tighter
than mode B.  In mode A, when I try to put out a letter 'C' I more often
send either CT or K.  Mode B seems easier, probably because it has a
feel much more like the Ten Tec keyer I've been used to prior to
building my K2.  In any case I'm curious as to just what the different
modes are.

Thanks!
Mike  AB3AP
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Re: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with short whip antennas?

[Michael Babineau]

Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote :

> The Maldol 20M whip is fine with a radial 10-16ft and a 1ft or so 
piece
> of bus wire clipped to the top with an alligator clip, at any angle.  
I
> worked Florida from Toronto on vacation twice with that antenna, 
acting

> on Wayne N6KR's lead.

Likewise, I have worked France with a similar setup from Maine, but ...
as someone else mentioned one has to be very careful to avoid damaging
the PCB as the BNC is directly mounted to the board.

Martin, for portable operations you will have much better luck with a 
longer wire.
The KXAT1 was optimized for the recommended 24 to 28 ft wire and will 
load
this with a decent SWR and pretty good performance on 40M / 30M / 20M 
with a
reasonable ground. This will give you better and more consistent 
performance than

a short loaded whip.

For bike mobile I would recommend that you try a  Hamstick. They are 
cheap

and on 20M especially, performance is not too bad.

I have also had pretty good luck using a 14ft linear loaded wire 
attached to a 13 ft telescopic
fishing pole for Pedestrian mobile operations with a 30ft trailing 
counterpoise wire.


Michael VE3WMB 


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800/1500

[wrmoore47]

I see the time has come, after over 5 years, for me to unsubscribe from this 
list.

72,
Randy, KS4L
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[Elecraft] QRP activity from SM-land

[LA2MOA]

Anyone who needs to work Sweden 2xQRP? I will be QRV as SM/LA2MOA
tonight from abt 1600 UTC to 2200 UTC and the same times also
tomorrow, on 20, 30 and 40M. Frequencys will be 14060, 10116 and 7030
(+/- QRM of course). If 17M is open I will have a try there between
16-17 UTC today and tomorrow.

Rig: K1 and KX1
Ant: 5 el @ 25 meters for 20M and dipoles @ 15 meters for other
frequencys.

72/3!

Hans / LA2MOA 
K1 #1992
KX1 #975

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count my $

[Bob Rennard]

My 75S-3B cost about 1/8th of what my 1969 Corvette cost.  So, I should be
able to buy a nice receiver today for about $6,000.  A 30S-1 cost about 1/3
of what the Corvette cost, so I should be able to buy a new amplifier today
for about $17,000.  However, getting this approved by the family CFO is
going to be a challenge.

I used to enjoy servicing my Corvette, rebuilding the carburetor, giving it
a tune up, etc.  I would not even consider it today.  The only way I can
enjoy putting my skills to work today, given that my time constraints have
gotten tighter, is by building a new Elecraft, or upgrading what I have.
Sweat equity, whether it is on the bench, or in the antenna farm produces as
much enjoyment to me as snagging a rare call sign at "reasonable" power.

I laud Elecraft for re-vitalizing the hobby, but I think I'll put the
KPA-100 back on the K2 if I need it.

N7WY
- Original Message -
From: "Philip L Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Stan Rife" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 5:01 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out


> Well let's see.  My first rig was a Collins S-line in the 1960s.  It cost
> about $1700 then.  What would that money buy me now as far as radios go?
Oh
> yes, the Piper Comanche B was less than $50,000 and a car was around
$2500.
>
> As I recall not seeing, it hasn't been announced yet.  Isn't everyone
> (including me) jumping the gun a little?
>
>
> NRE/COLE Test Center OH-3
> pcartergcfn.org or wd8qwrarrl.net
> Philip L. Carter, WD8QWR
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Change of QTH

[Bryan]

Hi All,

Just to say I've qsyed to Bonny Scotland, and I am now GM3AKF.  Hope it won't 
be too long before I am back on the bands.

73,  Bryan GM3AKF
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Nigel KC8NHF/G8IFF]

J F wrote:


I agree with this Dave. Like many other things, it is
"easy" whereas antenna improvements generally require
thought and work. 

But remember that, you spending a fortune on a big amplifier isn't going 
to help you to hear the other weak station.
It just frustrates the other station because he can easily hear you and 
you not hear him. He then brands you as having a lousy receive setup.



and a some folks are
antenna limited,

So will probably be either usin inside antennas or have them mounted 
extremely close to theirs or others houses.

Sounds like a good recipe for interfearance and bad neighbour relationships.

Remember that antenna improvements give you, in effect, a free high 
performance receive preanp.



I think the folks at Aptos are responding to the
market.


What's APTOS?
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. 
Tel +44 (0)1908 604004

e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wwwhttp://www.ngunn.net  or  http://www.ngunn.demon.co.uk
Amateur radio stations  G8IFF, KC8NHF
Member of  AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548  RAYNET
  Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA  LM-1691,
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[Philip L Carter]

Well let's see.  My first rig was a Collins S-line in the 1960s.  It cost
about $1700 then.  What would that money buy me now as far as radios go?  Oh
yes, the Piper Comanche B was less than $50,000 and a car was around $2500.

As I recall not seeing, it hasn't been announced yet.  Isn't everyone
(including me) jumping the gun a little?


NRE/COLE Test Center OH-3
pcartergcfn.org or wd8qwrarrl.net
Philip L. Carter, WD8QWR
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] Amplifier

[J F]

I agree with this Dave. Like many other things, it is
"easy" whereas antenna improvements generally require
thought and work. 
Some wish every edge they can get and a some folks are
antenna limited, we need to remember one other factor:
age. The ham population is aging and many are unable
or unwilling to do tower work or bury radials. So for
those folks, an amp seems to be the answer. Judging by
the number you see available "used", they tend to be
one of the first items disposed.
I think the folks at Aptos are responding to the
market. Although, we'd like to think of them in a less
commercial sense, they are a business. I'd rather see
them survive, even if it means adding some things that
some folks think sacreligious. I don't plan on adding
the "big" amp, but I do have my eye on two other kits.
(I still am trying to find enough time to build what I
have now, work, move, build an new antenna farm before
the fall, be with family, mow the yards, etc, etc...)

But I fully agree the best bang for the buck is
improving your antenna system.

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn


"Amps are, in  my view, the most overpriced pieces of
gear in the hamshack.  If you spend one tenth of that
amount sprucing up your antenna system you will get
more benefit. 
 The worst thing that ever happened to ham radio was
when they  allowed amplifiers that run more power than
the local commercial radio  station.  The U.K. 
allows, I think, a maximum of 400 watts---or is that 
Australia?  
Anyway, that's plenty!  From that level, the most you
can  improve your signal is about 1 "S" unit--unless
you cheat!  Anything more  than a couple hundred watts

just creates QRM--it becomes brute force  rather than technique!"
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RE: [Elecraft] KW Amp Prices

[Peter Zenker]

Vic,

I love your arguments:
> Suppose you have a couple of hundred watts and you are trying 
> to work DX on 160 meters.  There will be lots of times that 
> you call a station and he simply doesn't hear you.  If you 
> are just below the noise level at his location, a couple of 
> DB may put you just over, and you will be heard.  You can 
> work a lot of DX with low power, but that doesn't mean that 
> there's no value in higher power.

But believe me, you even will have a much better s/n if you use your mobile
phone and you can have lots of contacts all over the world with it and it´s
cheaper!! And there is less QRM too and you will have no problems with
tornados destroying your antennas.

;-)

73 de Peter, DL2FI


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[Elecraft] Elecraft: To Amp or not to Amp

[Martin . Evans]

As a relative newcomer to ham radio (been licensed for 2 years and SWL for
many years) I can't get too excited about the QRO/QRP debate. I spent my
first year and a half with QRP only on my precious K1 and knocked up
hundreds of contacts including a bit of DX with 5 W and low dipoles, lots
of fun and it taught me cw. There certainly is a special buzz about
covering hundreds and thousands of miles with a measly 5W, but I also get a
buzz (metaphorically of course) from watching valves glow and tuning up my
2x6146 amp to 100W. I confess that most of the time I don't need it but
every now and then it comes in handy when conditions are marginal.

BTW the amplifier cost me nothing, I had an old sick TS520 and I've
modified it to work just as a PA driven by the K1 complete with auto QSK. I
enjoy QRP and I enjoy working the old valves, if I had the money I'd enjoy
building and operating a solid state amp, if I had the time I'd enjoy
knocking together a 1W XTAL controlled qrp rig from the junk box, its all
part of the hobby, in fact that's what makes ham radio so special; there
are so many different things to dabble in, if you enjoy it do it. If
Elecraft want to make an amp fine, maybe they can keep the QRP and the QRO
enthusiasts happy, it's all good for the hobby.

Martin
M0KWV
K1 #1534 (and qro on the quiet hi)


Why not take a look at our Web site?
http://www.simoncarves.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out

[Toby Deinhardt]

$2800 (if that's a true figure) is quite inexpensive when you
compare the KPA800 (if that's the correct model designator) with the
closest competition on the market: the Icom PW-1 and the Yaesu
Quadra.


Don't forget the Tokyo HyPower HL-2KFX (Solid-State 1kW Linear Amp for
All HF Bands including 50MHz).

It costs about $2,500




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