[Elecraft] K2 #4962 thoughts on building

[Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR]

  Maybe this has been addressed in the last six
years but I don't know how to search and check
such a general notion.
  Effectively, I tripled checked every component
before soldering it in.

  The first check is that I inventoried every
component and placed them into separate partitions
of a drawer collection. I mixed the small yellow
capacitors with blue ones and anything else that
was obviously not confusing - e.g., a particular
transistor could be mixed with those capacitors.
In the appendix inventory, I wrote the location of
everything.
  The second check is when I had to retrieve a
component: I checked that it was the correct value
and component on taking it out of the drawer, and
laid it out on the workbench in order of installation
according to the manual.
   The third check is when I picked it up to solder
it in; I checked it again.

  This K2 was a real pleasure to build. It's my first
Elecraft and only the second kit I've built - the
first was a Heathkit HM-2140 dual power meter that
is still my one and only power/swr meter. I used it
in peaking the transmit levels of the K2, reversing
the input to use the more sensitive reflected power
meter.

  The internal tuning unit siren is calling. It's no
fun having to wind the knobs on a manual tuning unit
every time I change bands or aerials. Today I missed
answering a CQ on 40m because I had to tune up my
end fed long wire. This year in near winter, when the
leaves let me see the path, it will be a horizontal
loop with a modern automatic ASTU.

  The Elecraft awards seem interesting - I have only
one award - WAS CW as G4ICV -  can't get the awards
unless I operate more radio - the K2 is just the
ticket, and QRP to boot.

73, Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR
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Re: [Elecraft] no power or more power (scotty)

[Paul Bruneau]

what mode was the Sony in? AM? SSB? Does it have a CW mode?

Also, maybe you were right on the carrier, with no beat to hear?

Just guesses!

On Jun 8, 2005, at 8:47 PM, mc wrote:

To test out this new built KX1,  I send out a few  dit dah and put my 
Sony multiband receiver on the same frequency 7001.00 about eight feet 
away from the KX1. but the Sony receiver only gets a faint  signal, 
I'm just beginning with CW and as yet never sent or received a signal 
from anyone.


Mike

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RE: [Elecraft] slow CW

[Chuck Gehring]

I used my KY-562/U (J-37) straight key with my KX1 until I felt more
comfortable with a paddle at faster speeds

Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of mc
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 7:43 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] slow CW


just finished my new KX1, How do I get the code lower than the 10 WPM, I'm
just getting started and I am not quite up there yet.
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Re: [Elecraft] slow CW

[Able2fly]

 
In a message dated 6/8/2005 8:43:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

just finished my new KX1, How do I get the code lower than the 10 WPM,  I'm 
just getting started and I am not quite up there yet. 
>>>
 
You'll be up there before you know it, OM.  In the meantime  just leave more 
space between the characters. Besides, hearing 5wpm CW  sent with 10wpm 
characters is said to be a better way of learning.
 
Bill  K3UJ





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[Elecraft] no power or more power (scotty)

[mc]

To test out this new built KX1,  I send out a few  dit dah and put my Sony 
multiband receiver on the same frequency 7001.00 about eight feet away from the 
KX1. but the Sony receiver only gets a faint  signal, I'm just beginning with 
CW and as yet never sent or received a signal from anyone. 

Mike
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[Elecraft] slow CW

[mc]

just finished my new KX1, How do I get the code lower than the 10 WPM, I'm just 
getting started and I am not quite up there yet. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy Loads and SWR

[G3VVT]

 
In a message dated 08/06/05 17:50:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Just a  thought on dummy loads, a number of years ago I noticed my Heath
Cantenna  was giving me a slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1.
When I  measured it with a VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50
ohms  when I built it 25 or so years ago. 


Reply:---
 
There was a similar query in Radcom quite a few years back, I think in the  
Technical Topics column about the value of resistors changing in oil filled RF  
dummy loads.
 
The answer to the problem came back from no less a person than Reg Varney,  
G5RV who was I understand involved in the chemistry profession at one time.  
Certain types of oils apparently degrade the carbon material that the resistors 
 
are constructed from and over a time alter the resistance value. Vegetable  
oils were particularly bad in this respect it turned out. As these  vegetable 
oils are available cheaply in all grocery stores, this would be a  popular 
choice for the cash strapped ham, to their eventual downfall. There are  oils 
available that do not exhibit or minimise this effect, though probably are  
much 
more expensive to purchase and more difficult to source. Some transformer  oils 
such as PCBs have to be avoided as they are reputed to be  carcinogenic.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] XV144 Overload test fails - Revisited

[Gerhard Schwanz]

Hi again,

some news:

I am able to trigger the condition manually when hitting rb5 with gnd or
when hitting the base of q7 with 12v (via resistor of course).

But still:
Removing J8 results in relay clicking and the light going dark on my XV.
When I am reading the circiut diagram correctly then the test procedure is
not capable of triggering the condition because:
- J8 action results in power loss on k3 which switches the 12V line
- without power on 12V line the relay K8 can not pull the contact
- so J3 is not connected to the ODC

Where is my mistake? How can I test the circuit?

BTW: I set up the XV for single wire connection and a drive of max. 5W

Kind regards!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


- Original Message -
From: "Gerhard Schwanz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:04 AM
Subject: XV144 Overload test fails


> Hi list!
>
> I thought I could do the last steps of my XV144. Heard my first 2m beacon
> today! And I have 20W output power.
>
> Everything is fine except: The overload test fails. It fails in a way that
> absolutely nothing is happening while performing the test.
>
> When removing the jumper J8 the XV144 sign goes dark. Then I set all
> transverter number switches to their off positions, removed the control
> cable and keyed the hf rig, a k2. No leds blinking.
>
> By the way: I use 5W max to drive the XV144. So the 1milliwatt rule does
not
> apply.
>
> Is there something obvious that I am missing?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Gerhard Schwanz
> DH3FAW
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.gs-personal.de
>






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[Elecraft] K2 #4962 complete

[Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR]

The 160m option is installed.
 Everything is working fine.

Ian
--
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[Elecraft] K1 FOR SALE

[Steve Lawrence]

FOR SALE:

1) K1-4 SN 1861 Built, aligned and working for 40-30-20-17m with 80 KHz 
spread. Includes:


KNB1 Noise blanker
KAT1 Auto tuner
KBT1 Internal battery adapter (with RC type connectors so tops may be 
swapped easily)

KTS1 Wide-Range Tilt Stand
QSK Thump and AGC improvement mods.
Finger Dimple.

All original docs, notes and unused crystal/parts for 15m and 160 Khz 
tuning spread.


Excellent condition.

$600.

2) CUP 36-12-1 Power supply with AC cord.

$35

http://www.mtechnologies.com/cup/

Please Email off list.

TKS & 73 - Steve WB6RSE

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[Elecraft] Re: Dummy Loads

[David F. Reed]

Ron,

here you remind me of one of my favorite demonstrations; hopefully some 
of the rest will enjoy my reminiscing.



When dummy loads such as the Heath "Cantenna" first turned up in Hamshacks,
they were a luxury item intended to replace the standard dummy load of the
day: an incandescent light bulb. The light bulb had the added advantage of
showing when the rig was tuned for maximum output by how brightly it glowed.
 

Years ago, I used to teach a class on high powered amplifiers, and the 
importance of neutralization of the tank circuit was a topic frequently 
covered.


I would take out an old knight kit T-60 (Yeah, I agree, certainly not 
QRO, but effective for the demonstration) and hook it up to a 60 watt 
incandescent bulb as a dummy load.


Then, with no crystal or VFO, I would key it down... the bulb would glow 
as the parasitic oscillation came up, while we tuned the rig's plate and 
load controls...


Then the challenge would be to neutralize it such that this could not 
happen...


And back then, just a brief warning to turn the exciter off, and ground 
the plate supply before working on it sufficed; we were a less litigious 
society in those days I guess..


73 de W5SV, Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Opinions

[Eric Ward]

Jameco carries a variety of linear, regulated supplies in different 
amperages and voltages.  They look like "wall warts" but they are not, 
provided you make sure you are ordering a linear regulated supply, and 
not an unregulated swticher.


Here is the relevant catalog page off their website:
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c252/P174.pdf

I bought a 12V 1A job for my KX1 for >$20 including shipping, and it 
works like a champ--no noise at all.

Usual disclaimer about no commercial interest in Jameco.

73 Eric N0HHS KX1 #670

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RE: [Elecraft] Dummy Loads and SWR

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Steve K4JPM wrote:
"...a number of years ago I noticed my Heath Cantenna was giving me a
slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1. When I measured it with a
VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50 ohms when I built it 25 or
so years ago.  I posted this on the Heath users Email list and received
around 5 or 6 replies all with the same condition of 40 ohms.   The
interesting point is that my dummy load has never seen more then 100 W; as I
have never have and probably never will own a KW.   Several
of the replies I received from the Heath users group also had never run a KW
into their Heath cantenna's."



When dummy loads such as the Heath "Cantenna" first turned up in Hamshacks,
they were a luxury item intended to replace the standard dummy load of the
day: an incandescent light bulb. The light bulb had the added advantage of
showing when the rig was tuned for maximum output by how brightly it glowed.
The Cantenna and similar loads were first promoted as "TVI-proof" loads that
did not radiate. Still, relatively few Hams used them. 

The appearance "No tune" rigs and increasing popularity QRO amps demanded
something better that the simple bulb (although a few Hams persisted with
gigantic incandescent bulbs hooked to their QRO amps). 

How accurate does such a dummy load have to be? A tolerance of 20% or even
30% was perfectly fine. After all, the no-tune rigs were specified to handle
an SWR of up to 1.5:1 at least. That would mean a value of anywhere from 25
to 100 ohms was a usable dummy load. Even if a Cantenna measured close to 50
ohms when new, it's not likely Heath cared to spend the money on a resistive
element guaranteed to stay close to that value over time. I have also read
many reports of Cantennas showing 40 ohms today. Since most resistive
elements increase in value over time, I have to wonder if they weren't
always 40 ohms. After all, the ohmmeters we have today are far more accurate
than what most of us had in those days too. 

The Cantenna appeared in the day when Hams were measuring and logging their
power by the d-c input power to the final amplifier: the collector or plate
voltage multiplied by the collector or plate current. Few hams had any way
of measuring their output power beyond comparing the brilliance of an
incandescent bulb to its normal value. It was common to verity that a
100-watt rig was producing full output by noting that a 60 or 75 watt bulb
glowed to "full brilliance" when used as a dummy load, indicating an
efficiency of 60% to 75% from a "100 watt" (d-c input power) rig. 

Of course, that sort of output power measurement went away when no-tune ham
rigs no longer tolerated a light-bulb dummy load. And so, in time,
wattmeters designed for a 50 ohm load started to appear for Ham use but
those wattmeters are anything but exact. After all, a 2 or 3 dB error is
virtually undetectable on the air under normal conditions. Most meters were
intended more as relative power meters that would show a change indicating
something amiss in the rig or antenna. If a meter monitoring a rig putting
out 100 watts showed anything from 80 to 120 watts, it was a very good
meter. 

To this day, an error of 20% of full scale is typical of many Ham (and come
commercial) wattmeters. Note that is "full scale", so if you're looking at
10 watts output on a meter that reads 30 watts full scale, that means that
the actual output power is anywhere from as little as 4 watts to perhaps as
much as 16 watts (20% of 30 = 6 watts). 

Us Hams often like to get on a quest of perfection, even if it makes no
sense technically or in terms of on-air performance. That has been
encouraged by those who operate the QRP contests who want to know in their
hearts that they are running all the power they can, but not one milliwatt
over 5 watts output. But that's a recent phenomenon. When the Cantenna came
out, all most operators cared about was whether the rig was "happy" with the
load. 

After all, when those Cantennas appeared, official QRP ARCI power for
contests and the like was 50 watts d-c input (30 watts or so output -
roughly)!

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] Dummy Loads and SWR

[Steve & Anne Ray]

Just a thought on dummy loads, a number of years ago I noticed my Heath
Cantenna was giving me a slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1.
When I measured it with a VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50
ohms when I built it 25 or so years ago.  I posted this on the Heath users
Email list and received around 5 or 6 replies all with the same condition of
40 ohms.   The interesting point is that my dummy load has never seen more
then 100 W; as I have never have and probably never will own a KW.   Several
of the replies I received from the Heath users group also had never run a KW
into their Heath cantenna's.

Last year a Dayton I picked up a dummy load, which is a 50 ohm it is 10 or
20 W resistor on a massive heat sink, and easily handles 100 W, designed for
use on VHF, it is flat across the bands, at least from 1.8 to 30 MHz.   

By the way I also have several hb dummy loads for QRP which I know are also
50 ohms.

Steve Ray K4JPN ex K1VKW
EM82ep Warner Robins GA
Elecraft K2 1422 & KPA-100
Heath Fan HW-101, HW-8
http://www.thewinstonator.com/k4jpn.htm



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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Mod Query

[n2fq]

Ron, Don
thanks for the notes and explanation.

I went back and set the U2 Pin 5 back to 3.8, monitored
this voltage as I changed R1, did the AGC ON/OFF while I stepped
down the voltage until I couldn't hear
no difference at about 3.70vdc.

RF gain back to normal.
Much appreciated.

take care.


--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Palm Logger is Working!

[Erik Linder]

Edward R. Breneiser wrote:

I finally have my Palm 105 controlling my Elecraft K2! Yes I now can
hold the tiny PDA in my hand and change bands, frequencies, and send
programmed massages such as CQ, Mycall, Exchange, His Call, TU and ?. I
can also log and dupe check with the PDA at the same time. Aren't
machines wonderful? I plan to do a write-up on my experience with this
project.


Do you have any URL's to the software you using?

73 de SM0RVV ./Erik
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RE: [Elecraft] AGC Mod Query

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Fernando,

Yes, I would say that 3.37 volts is a bit too low, and yes it will make a
difference in how the RF Gain responds - both the RF Gain control and the
AGC adjustment pot are in the same resistive network (no active devices
involved) - it is a 2 legged resistor network with the RF Gain in one leg
and the AGC Threshold pot in the other leg.

If you did AGC on/off evaluation with an antenna attached, you have set the
AGC to not activate on band noise - the proper setting should be to set it
so no AGC action occurs with internal receiver noise, so do it with the
antenna disconnected - or if you want to be particular, with a dummy load
attached.

My guess is that you will end up with a voltage on U2 pin 5 of somewhere
between 3.6 and 3.75 volts - at least that has been my experience.  3.8
volts is usually too high but a lot depends on the actual gain of the IF
amplifier chip.  If you end up with something as low as 3.37 volts using
internal receiver noise only, you should investigate to see what is causing
the excessive receiver noise.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Awhile back there was some mail about the AGC Mod on the K2.
> Specifically, adjusting R1 on the Control board.
>
> My K2 had a fixed resistor so I replaced it with a 20 turn
> 50k one. I also followed the write up about how to adjust it
> for apparent equal noise with AGC ON/OFF.
>
> Worked like a charm and the final voltage on U2 pin 5 turn out
> to be 3.37vdc.
>
> The audio coming out the speaker booms now, BUT
> the RF control is not as effective as it used to be.
> Namely, I like to turn down the RF to lessen
> the background noise. Now I can turn
> the RF all the way ccw and see no apparent
> reduction in background noise.
>
> So I'm going back into the rig and play with it.
>
> My question is this: Did I make a too aggressive
> change on R1?
>
>
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] using an external supply with batteries in unit

[W0rw]

If your external battery voltage goes below the internal battery 
voltage, the internal batteries will start draining.
i left my KX1 on for a few days and after i ran down the external battery the 
internal batteries took over and became totally discharged.
These were the expensive Lithium "AA" Primary batteries (L91's).
i wanted to save the use of these Li batteries for special uses.

The original power distribution design "AND's" the internal battery and 
external battery sources together using 2 diodes.
You can change the power switching of J1 to prevent this.

Here are the details of the DC J1 switching Modification:
The Elecraft DC Power connector has an unused (normally closed) switch.
This modification will use that switch so that when an external power source 
is connected the internal batteries will be disconnected, and conversely when 
the DC power plug is removed the internal batteries will be reconnected.
Open the unit on an ESD grounded work station.
Separate the battery compartment by pulling the battery connector (J1) out.
Cut the 2 traces that ground P1-2 "-" (getting scary now)...Top Side..
Now add an insulated jumper wire from P1-2  "-" to the side contact of J1 (J1 
is the power connector), The unused switch contact is soldered to an isolated 
pad just the left of the marking 'Z2'...
That's it
This will protect those internal batteries from discharging.

One other thing that you can do is to set the LED Display Control to "INF" 
then the LED display will act as a pilot light.
72  de w0rw
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RE: [Elecraft] AGC Mod Query

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Fernanco, N2FQ wrote:

Awhile back there was some mail about the AGC Mod on the K2. Specifically,
adjusting R1 on the Control board.

My K2 had a fixed resistor so I replaced it with a 20 turn
50k one. I also followed the write up about how to adjust it for apparent
equal noise with AGC ON/OFF.

Worked like a charm and the final voltage on U2 pin 5 turn out to be
3.37vdc.

The audio coming out the speaker booms now, BUT
the RF control is not as effective as it used to be.
Namely, I like to turn down the RF to lessen
the background noise. Now I can turn
the RF all the way ccw and see no apparent
reduction in background noise.

So I'm going back into the rig and play with it.

My question is this: Did I make a too aggressive
change on R1?

--

Definitely yes! You've disabled the AGC. The RF GAIN is merely a manual AGC
voltage controller. It does with a knob what the AGC amplifiers do
automatically based on the received signal strength.  Clearly, the RF GAIN
no longer has sufficient voltage swing to turn down the I.F. amplifier gain.


Another way to demonstrate that the AGC isn't working is to tune in a
decently-strong signal, then turn the AGC off (press PRE/ATT and AGC buttons
simultaneously. "OFF" will appear on the LCD display). If the AGC is
working, you'll hear a huge increase in the signal level when you turn it
off. If the signal stays the about same, the AGC is already off. Press the
buttons again to see "On" appear on the LCD and you should hear the signal
level drop as the AGC takes hold. Also the S-meter bar graph will indicate a
signal strength.

When the AGC is on, you want it to start reacting to the background noise
just slightly. Of course that will vary from band to band. Most Hams live
with the most QRN on 160 or 80 meters. Also turning the PREAMP on will
increase the background noise. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] AGC Mod Query

[n2fq]

Hello everyone.

Awhile back there was some mail about the AGC Mod on the K2.
Specifically, adjusting R1 on the Control board.

My K2 had a fixed resistor so I replaced it with a 20 turn
50k one. I also followed the write up about how to adjust it
for apparent equal noise with AGC ON/OFF.

Worked like a charm and the final voltage on U2 pin 5 turn out
to be 3.37vdc.

The audio coming out the speaker booms now, BUT
the RF control is not as effective as it used to be.
Namely, I like to turn down the RF to lessen
the background noise. Now I can turn
the RF all the way ccw and see no apparent
reduction in background noise.

So I'm going back into the rig and play with it.

My question is this: Did I make a too aggressive
change on R1?

tnx.

--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA




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RE: [Elecraft] using an external supply with batteries in unit

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That's right, Alan. You can safely connect an external power supply with the
internal batteries installed. The KX1 will draw power from whichever has the
higher voltage, the internal battery or the external power supply. 

Of course, that will be the external supply normally, unless you are using a
very low-voltage supply for some reason. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi,

I am running my KX1 off of a 12 Volt supply right now and leaving the 
batteries in the unit.

I assume the purpose of D2 and D3 is to isolate the power jack from the 
batteries when power is applied to the Jack?

Sure looks like it.

73
Alan


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power Calibration SWR Question

[Larry Phipps]

It's possible that those indications are accurate and related, but not 
necessarily so. Most wattmeters show total forward (including reflected) 
power, so if the reflected power goes up as the incident power goes 
down, the total remains the same. If your external wattmeter shows 
actual delivered power (forward minus reflected), then you would expect 
the displayed power to drop as SWR increases, although at 1.5:1 the 
effect would be minimal.


It is more likely that the SWR increase you are seeing on your MFJ is 
real, and the lower power reading is just the KPA-100 delivering less 
power on 10m into the higher SWR.


BTW, I have been doing a lot of work lately, along with a friend, to 
determine just how accurately power can be measured. We have determined 
that manufacturers' claims about absolute power measurement accuracy are 
extremely optimistic. We have access to tens of thousands of dollars of 
precision loads and measurement equipment, and find it terribly 
difficult to measure absolute power within .2dB accurately (~5%), and 
sticking a Bird 43 in line with typical ham dummy loads is definitely 
not the way. The Bird is a good example of misleading ratings. It is 
rated at 5% of full-scale with a high quality dummy load. In other 
words, if you had a dummy load with >40 dB return loss, the Bird would 
only be within 5% at full scale. At half-scale it would be 10% at best. 
And even if your load is 50 ohms exactly, the makeup of that 50 ohms 
plays a part... if part of the 50 ohm Z is reactance, the accuracy 
typically suffers as well.


To make a long story short, I think most hams are lucky to have 10% 
accuracy, which is OK if you realize it.


Larry N8LP



Gottlieb, Jonathan wrote:


I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my KPA100.  The 
SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from there.  It is 1.5-1 on 10m 
and power output as indicated on my external power meter shows power declining 
as the SWR is increasing.  I am using an MJF 264 dummy load which is not the 
best.  Any thoughts?  Could I just be seeing a poor load?

Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK


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AW: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power Calibration SWR Question

[Renardy, Martin]

Hallo Jonathan,

I have done the calibration last weekend and I am getting a SWR of 1.0-1 on all 
bands. I have used the
build in dummy load of my MFJ 949E antenna tuner. I would blame the dummy load 
too.

You can maybe carefully use a tuned antenna at low power levels just to verify?

Regards

Martin



-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von Gottlieb, 
Jonathan
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 8. Juni 2005 16:08
An: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power Calibration SWR Question


I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my KPA100.  The 
SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from there.  It is 1.5-1 on 10m 
and power output as indicated on my external power meter shows power declining 
as the SWR is increasing.  I am using an MJF 264 dummy load which is not the 
best.  Any thoughts?  Could I just be seeing a poor load?

Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK


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RE: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power Calibration SWR Question

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

Those indications may be indeed correct.  To properly answer the question,
check your dummy load with an antenna analyzer first.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my
> KPA100.  The SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from
> there.  It is 1.5-1 on 10m and power output as indicated on my
> external power meter shows power declining as the SWR is
> increasing.  I am using an MJF 264 dummy load which is not the
> best.  Any thoughts?  Could I just be seeing a poor load?
>
> Jonathan Gottlieb
> WA3WDK
>
--
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[Elecraft] KPA 100 Power Calibration SWR Question

[Gottlieb, Jonathan]

I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my KPA100.  The 
SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from there.  It is 1.5-1 on 10m 
and power output as indicated on my external power meter shows power declining 
as the SWR is increasing.  I am using an MJF 264 dummy load which is not the 
best.  Any thoughts?  Could I just be seeing a poor load?

Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK


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Re: [Elecraft] fustration frustration

[Daems Johan]

Yes, that man need an "r" but you better help the man with his K2 problems instead of spilling your energy in detecting typo 
mistakes.


73,
Johan - on4aeb 


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[Elecraft] KPA100/ Spring clip at rear shilding is colliding with RFC10

[Renardy, Martin]

Dear all,

I have a minor mechanical problem with one of the spring clips of the
KPA100
Shielding, which should enshure good electrical contact with the K2
case.

The spring clip at the rear side od the shielding is colliding with
RFC10, which
is soldered between the antenna connector and ground.

Because space is narrow it's difficult to move RFC10.

Has sombody solved this "problem".

Greetings vom south-west germany

Martin

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[Elecraft] fustration frustration

[Lloyd Lachow]

Brian, ship that man an "r!"

  ...post-band, of course.

  L/4832

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[Elecraft] using an external supply with batteries in unit

[Alan Beck]

Hi,

I am running my KX1 off of a 12 Volt supply right now and leaving the 
batteries in the unit.


I assume the purpose of D2 and D3 is to isolate the power jack from the 
batteries when power is applied to the Jack?


Sure looks like it.

73
Alan
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