[Elecraft] K2 #4941 is on the air!
Can't get anyone to talk to me yet but alignment went fine and I know it's transmitting cuz I can hear it on my Kenwood HT. My only complaint is about the installation of a couple of those last transformers. There are components on the bottom of the board that make it all but impossible to solder one or two of the leads. Seems like a slight change in the order of installing some of the parts would be helpful. Next up is the final assembly, then start on the KPA100 while I find a bigger power supply. I don't know if the gang at Elecraft realizes the full scope of effect of their products. I got back into ham radio this year after 20 years purely because I stumbled onto an Elecraft ad in CQ magazine and got excited about building a radio again. That's testimony enough to the benefits of their products, but then last month I got the urge to drop a QSL card in the mail to a guy I "mentored" back when we were both in eighth grade in 1973. He got his ticket a few months after I got mine. I told him my new callsign and invited him to get ahold of me. He got the card and sent me an email and we're back in touch for the first time in 25 years. Thank you, Elecraft! Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 SN389 No Fwd Power
Ron, What is your power supply voltage? If it is from a good stiff 13.8 volt supply, you may have a problem, but if you are operating from the internal battery, the problem may just be that the battery has become discharged - with the internal battery, you should power the K2 from a 14.1 to 14.3 volt power supply to keep the battery adequately charged. If the K2 was working fine and just quit, look for the source of the failure - don't do any alignment until you find out what the problem may be - the transmit signal tracing part of the 'Troubleshooting' section of the manual will help. Once you get it operating again, you can do the alignment steps. If you want an alignment 'document', you can find it on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com or at either of the mirrors http://home.earthlink.net or www.qsl.net/w3fpr. That alignment document is an extract from the K2 manual Rev E, but does not differ from the alignment steps from the Rev F (latest) manual. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Greetings Elecrafters. I have acquired a used K2, SN389, with the SSB > option and internal battery pack. It is my first experience with the K2, > and I have to say I am quite impressed with this little radio. I've been > using it nightly for a few weeks to clunk out some slow CW, and have been > enjoying it very much. Made my first really-DX contacts, Tonga and New > Zealand on a couple of good 20m openings! > > However, I'm sure that this used radio has had a lot of miles put on it, > what with the low serial number. So I'm not too surprised to find some > issues. Thus beginneth my request for help. I was gone over the holiday > and so I left the radio disconnected from the antenna and power. > Yesterday > I returned from the holiday, connected the antenna, and started seeking > contacts. My attic antennas are connected to an MFJ-949E > versatuner, which > has a power meter. I normally see 10-12 W forward power and <1w reflected > on my 20m dipole. For some reason, I suddenly have less than 1W > now. This > is the case on all bands, and differing antennas. > > I checked cables, swapped cables, tried the radio on the dummy load in the > versatuner, and tested it on different power output settings from > 1w to 15w. > Since I didn't build this radio, I'm madly reading over the > manual to try to > figure out where there are fuses or calibration steps, but I thought I'd > also post this question to the list. Any comments would be welcome. > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.9/42 - Release Date: 7/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 #4983 is up and running
Jason, If the transistor tabs are in contact with the heat sink over their entire surface area, you did it right. It is normal for the pins to dtick about 1/8 inch above the board. You can clip them off or leave them as is - your choice. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I just finished K2 #4983 and it seems to be working properly. Just in > time for the fox hunt tomorrow night. > > I do have a quick question... > > The Q7 and Q8 leads stick kinda high on the top side. I probably did > not do a good job at bending the leads right. Should I just clip them? > Did not know if that would interfere with the heat dissipation. > > Thanks! > > Jason > N8XE > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal generator
I just double checked after your message, but no, I don't have a second antenna option on the K2. I have multiple antennas in the attic, but get the same results for them all (including the dummy load in the MFJ-949). Appreciate the ideas, radio is new to me so it could be something stupid. > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Phipps > Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 9:15 PM > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal > generator > > > A perfect example of the kind of semi kits I was referring to in my > earlier post. Also check out www.amqrp.org, www.tapr.org and N2PKs > projects at http://users.adelphia.net/~n2pk/. > > Many of these offer full or partial kits, but you can wind up with some > very useful test gear that beats the pants off assembled ham gear for a > much lower price. > > Larry N8LP > > > > > Paul wrote: > > >I found a reasonable kit for the main guts of a homemade freq. counter at > >Almost All Digital http://aade.com/index.html#dfd specifically his DFD4a > >http://aade.com/DFD4A/dfd4a.htm I got mine in the assembled > version because > >it comes with the TCXO already calibrated. You still need to wire it and > >provide a suitable enclosure but that's the easy part. Cost ~$80 > plus spare > >connectors, switches, battery and a box. Used it to align the > 4Mhz osc on K2 > >#4826 which later zero-beat to WWV within 30Hz. > > > > > >Paul > >KI4BIO > > > > > > > > > >>Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:24:27 -0500 > >>From: Matt Osborn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal > >>generator > >>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >> > >>According to the transverter manual, I will need a 50mhz signal > >>generator or a frequency counter to successfully align the > >>transverter. > >> > >>I've done a lot searching for signal generators and have found that > >>those capable of 50mhz are very expensive, around $1500 dollars > >>minimum. > >> > >>I found a B&K frequency counter (Model 1856D) for around $430.00 that > >>will measure up to 3ghz. I suspect that B&K doesn't have the > >>tolerances of the big boys, hence their lower prices. B&K also has a > >>model that will measure up to 175mhz for about $100.00 less. The 175 > >>would be enough for the transverter, but in for a penny, in for a > >>pound comes to mind. Why spend $350.00 this month and then $430.00 > >>next month? > >> > >>Will the 1856D work for aligning the transverter? My question > >>revolves around which of the two instruments (signal generator or > >>freq. counter) will accomplish the task the best. > >> > >>Better yet, anybody know of any better alternatives? I keep running > >>into the chicken and egg problem. If I build it myself, I can't > >>calibrate it. If I buy the tools to calibrate it, then I don't need to > >>build it. > >> > >>They say a smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns > >>from the mistakes of others. Please help me be a wise man. > >> > >>All advice is most welcome! > >> > >> > >___ > >Elecraft mailing list > >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #4983 is up and running
Howdy guys, I just finished K2 #4983 and it seems to be working properly. Just in time for the fox hunt tomorrow night. I do have a quick question... The Q7 and Q8 leads stick kinda high on the top side. I probably did not do a good job at bending the leads right. Should I just clip them? Did not know if that would interfere with the heat dissipation. Thanks! Jason N8XE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 SN389 No Fwd Power
Greetings Elecrafters. I have acquired a used K2, SN389, with the SSB option and internal battery pack. It is my first experience with the K2, and I have to say I am quite impressed with this little radio. I've been using it nightly for a few weeks to clunk out some slow CW, and have been enjoying it very much. Made my first really-DX contacts, Tonga and New Zealand on a couple of good 20m openings! However, I'm sure that this used radio has had a lot of miles put on it, what with the low serial number. So I'm not too surprised to find some issues. Thus beginneth my request for help. I was gone over the holiday and so I left the radio disconnected from the antenna and power. Yesterday I returned from the holiday, connected the antenna, and started seeking contacts. My attic antennas are connected to an MFJ-949E versatuner, which has a power meter. I normally see 10-12 W forward power and <1w reflected on my 20m dipole. For some reason, I suddenly have less than 1W now. This is the case on all bands, and differing antennas. I checked cables, swapped cables, tried the radio on the dummy load in the versatuner, and tested it on different power output settings from 1w to 15w. Since I didn't build this radio, I'm madly reading over the manual to try to figure out where there are fuses or calibration steps, but I thought I'd also post this question to the list. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks --Ron KC0TLN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal generator
A perfect example of the kind of semi kits I was referring to in my earlier post. Also check out www.amqrp.org, www.tapr.org and N2PKs projects at http://users.adelphia.net/~n2pk/. Many of these offer full or partial kits, but you can wind up with some very useful test gear that beats the pants off assembled ham gear for a much lower price. Larry N8LP Paul wrote: I found a reasonable kit for the main guts of a homemade freq. counter at Almost All Digital http://aade.com/index.html#dfd specifically his DFD4a http://aade.com/DFD4A/dfd4a.htm I got mine in the assembled version because it comes with the TCXO already calibrated. You still need to wire it and provide a suitable enclosure but that's the easy part. Cost ~$80 plus spare connectors, switches, battery and a box. Used it to align the 4Mhz osc on K2 #4826 which later zero-beat to WWV within 30Hz. Paul KI4BIO Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:24:27 -0500 From: Matt Osborn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal generator To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii According to the transverter manual, I will need a 50mhz signal generator or a frequency counter to successfully align the transverter. I've done a lot searching for signal generators and have found that those capable of 50mhz are very expensive, around $1500 dollars minimum. I found a B&K frequency counter (Model 1856D) for around $430.00 that will measure up to 3ghz. I suspect that B&K doesn't have the tolerances of the big boys, hence their lower prices. B&K also has a model that will measure up to 175mhz for about $100.00 less. The 175 would be enough for the transverter, but in for a penny, in for a pound comes to mind. Why spend $350.00 this month and then $430.00 next month? Will the 1856D work for aligning the transverter? My question revolves around which of the two instruments (signal generator or freq. counter) will accomplish the task the best. Better yet, anybody know of any better alternatives? I keep running into the chicken and egg problem. If I build it myself, I can't calibrate it. If I buy the tools to calibrate it, then I don't need to build it. They say a smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others. Please help me be a wise man. All advice is most welcome! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal generator
I found a reasonable kit for the main guts of a homemade freq. counter at Almost All Digital http://aade.com/index.html#dfd specifically his DFD4a http://aade.com/DFD4A/dfd4a.htm I got mine in the assembled version because it comes with the TCXO already calibrated. You still need to wire it and provide a suitable enclosure but that's the easy part. Cost ~$80 plus spare connectors, switches, battery and a box. Used it to align the 4Mhz osc on K2 #4826 which later zero-beat to WWV within 30Hz. Paul KI4BIO > Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:24:27 -0500 > From: Matt Osborn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft transveters and freq. counter/signal > generator > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > According to the transverter manual, I will need a 50mhz signal > generator or a frequency counter to successfully align the > transverter. > > I've done a lot searching for signal generators and have found that > those capable of 50mhz are very expensive, around $1500 dollars > minimum. > > I found a B&K frequency counter (Model 1856D) for around $430.00 that > will measure up to 3ghz. I suspect that B&K doesn't have the > tolerances of the big boys, hence their lower prices. B&K also has a > model that will measure up to 175mhz for about $100.00 less. The 175 > would be enough for the transverter, but in for a penny, in for a > pound comes to mind. Why spend $350.00 this month and then $430.00 > next month? > > Will the 1856D work for aligning the transverter? My question > revolves around which of the two instruments (signal generator or > freq. counter) will accomplish the task the best. > > Better yet, anybody know of any better alternatives? I keep running > into the chicken and egg problem. If I build it myself, I can't > calibrate it. If I buy the tools to calibrate it, then I don't need to > build it. > > They say a smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns > from the mistakes of others. Please help me be a wise man. > > All advice is most welcome! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS KBT1
I have a newly built KBT1 internal battery option for your K1 transceiver that I would like to sell. I will ship for $40. If interested please contact me off list. Thanks, Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTD: Oak Hills Research SCAF Filter & Oak Hills Research WM-2 Instructions
I don't have the manuals, but you can order the WM-2 manual from Oak Hills Research for $10.00. http://www.mtechnologies.com/ohr/manuals.htm On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 22:31:16 +0100, "Andy GM0NWI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Guy's > >I am in need of another copy (.pdf for ease...or printout ..whatever) for the >above pieces of >equipment > >Over the last 2 years I have been gettin' my disabled friendly flat >modifiedand I am ashamed to >admit... the decorating is'nt finished yet... (cant get the workers.! friends >are helping in free >time as an when..) > >I had the original instructions for these, before the upheaval...but somewhere >in the rush to pack >all my worthly goods into boxes for "safe keeping", the manuals seem to have >gotten lost.or may >be hiding in a box in the darkened loft space..out of my reach for the >moment... > >I'd really appreciate any help from my fellow swine... all costs will of >course be met in full if >required... CAN SOMEONE please help me here?? > >All replies of help, please to the e-mail address below... I am QTHR also...on >QRZ.com > >72's >Andy[EMAIL PROTECTED] >A.R.S. >GM0NWI QRP > >GQRP No.9576 >QRP-L No.2165 >ARCI No.10561 >Alaska QRP Club No.190 >Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP No. 1061 > > >___ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTD: Oak Hills Research SCAF Filter & Oak Hills Research WM-2 Instructions
Guy's I am in need of another copy (.pdf for ease...or printout ..whatever) for the above pieces of equipment Over the last 2 years I have been gettin' my disabled friendly flat modifiedand I am ashamed to admit... the decorating is'nt finished yet... (cant get the workers.! friends are helping in free time as an when..) I had the original instructions for these, before the upheaval...but somewhere in the rush to pack all my worthly goods into boxes for "safe keeping", the manuals seem to have gotten lost.or may be hiding in a box in the darkened loft space..out of my reach for the moment... I'd really appreciate any help from my fellow swine... all costs will of course be met in full if required... CAN SOMEONE please help me here?? All replies of help, please to the e-mail address below... I am QTHR also...on QRZ.com 72's Andy[EMAIL PROTECTED] A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP No. 1061 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: KNB2 non operation
Thanks to Sverre Holm for giving me the test approach to find my problem. Scratching Q21 on the main board gave me sufficient noise pulses to trace the noise blanker operation using my OLD scope. My problem was Q5, the noise gate transistor. Good drive pulses to the base, but since there is no collector voltage on Q5, I couldn't test it. Replacing Q5 with a 2N4124 (npn) transistor I had on hand cured the problem. KNB2 works just fine. Thanks for everyone's help Rich W3ACO K2 S/N 4023 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Fan for Speaker in EC2?
Hi all, I will probably be looking for a small fan for where the speaker normally goes in my spare time. I can always use an external fan for now. I also want to test the kpa100 with the existing fan. In any event, I didn't want to imply that the existing Elecraft design is deficient. Issues would be: 1) How to hook it up? I was thinking of paralleling it with the existing fan, so they would go on and off as needed. 2) Fan direction: I would think it best to have this fan to be in the opposite direction of the original fan. If the original fan blows, then this one should suck, so as to not fight each other. 3) Also omitting the speaker and adding a fan or not, will change the ventilation paths in the EC2. It could actually create a problem with cooling a specific area of the enclosure. 4) If I attach the 2nd fan to the first in parallel then can the supply take the extra current? 5) Even if I don't add the 2nd fan, it may be good to install the non-connected speaker to properly seal the enclosure to allow cooling as originally intended. Food for thought, Steve, W2MY Steven Pituch wrote: Hi all, I was looking at my KPA100 while waiting for some parts and am wondering. Since the KPA100 is in the EC2 case, I'm guessing there is no reason to put the speaker in the EC2 by screwing it to the heatsink of the KPA100. What if I found a small fan and placed it where the speaker should be to compliment the small fan at the back of the kpa100? With the opening in the heat sink it seems a perfect substitution. Any suggestions? Steve, W2MY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] extra cooling on the K2
On 6 Jul 2005 at 21:02, Ron ZL1TW wrote: > I find the noise of the little fan on the K2 quite annoying, and for some > time now, I have been using a computer muffin fan which I have mounted on > a > plexiglass plate that fits over the heat-sink fins, and is located there > with a couple of "keys" that fit down into the fins. There is a hole cut > in I picked up a couple of hard drive fans at Dayton for about a buck each. They are already are mounted in pairs and the right size to cover the most"active" half of the heatsink. Wired in series they run at a nice steady rate and don't cover the speaker at all. I agree with Ron about sound deflection - makes a big difference as does a resonant tube over the speaker for "free" filtering! 73, Peter Linsley, G3PDL [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.9/42 - Release Date: 06/07/05 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] extra cooling on the K2
Hi, I know it will be said that the K2 doesn't need extra cooling as it will automatically turn the power down if it gets too hot, but my setup here might be of interest? I find the noise of the little fan on the K2 quite annoying, and for some time now, I have been using a computer muffin fan which I have mounted on a plexiglass plate that fits over the heat-sink fins, and is located there with a couple of "keys" that fit down into the fins. There is a hole cut in the plexiglass panel above the speaker, and I made up a deflector that "beams" the sound directly at me, rather than straight up. I found this latter appendage very handy during field day, when the K2 was being used in a tent, as tents don't reflect sound like home shacks do. Even a muffin fan can be irritating in a quiet room, and the simplest solution there was for me to use a series dropping resistor, which works fine on most muffin fans, but of course, I was stuck with a single speed fan. The solution was found when I was given a box of "dead" computer power supplies, and in most of them, the fan had a small PC board attached to one lug of the fan, with a thermistor that sat against the switching transistor's heat sink. As the temperature went up, the speed of the fan increased. Probably the nicest feature is that the fan runs about 1/3rd speed when everything is nice a cool and is virtually silent. I have used this setup for a while now; mounting the small PC board so the thermistor sits through a hole in the plexiglass, and in contact with the surface of the K2's heat sink. ( Burying it in a blob of silicon grease would probably be betterbut messy) The muffin fan will slightly increase in speed after extended CW use, but the "mosquito like" fan on the back has never come on while using this contraption. The PC board has a thermistor with a fixed resistor in series, controlling the base of a transistor ( part of a Darlington setup with 2 transistors) which directly controls the fan. Very simple. I mention this for what it is worth. I find it handy when I use the K2 to take a CW learners net where text and numbers sent at speed down to 12 - 14 wpm certainly made the K2 heat up. I also like "rag chewing" on the paddles, so the little fan on the back used to get a work-out. It is super simple to just lift the panel off when it isn't wanted. I don't have a web site to post any pics, but if anyone was interested I could take a low resolution digital pic and send it via EMail. Cheers...Ron ZL1TW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WAS: Temperature with KPA100 and XV144
OK, I found out that I put out too much power with my XV144. This is because I did alignment with 12V and later ran the rig with 13,8V. I did two things to nearly solve the problem of overheating my XV144. 1st I realigned power with 13,8V 2nd I disassembled the chassis, removed the heat rubbers between the power module, heat spreader and bottom cover. Then I applied heat-conductive paste in both places. So power is now lower and the heat is very much better spread on the bottom cover. You can feel that. Nonetheless, there is a point in time after maybe 15min of continous CW CQ where the XV shuts down due to heat. But this is heavy contest use and a fan is appropriate/acceptable in this scenario, I think. 73 Gerhard ___ Gesendet von Yahoo! Mail - Jetzt mit 1GB Speicher kostenlos - Hier anmelden: http://mail.yahoo.de ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
