[Elecraft] Re: K2 BFO test after adding a capacitor

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.]

I finally got around to applying Gary's fix (Thanks!) for the problem 
where I couldn't center the narrow filters at 1000Hz in one of the RTTY 
modes (reverse R for low bands, normal R for high bands).  My K2 #3121 
apparently had a stiff set of X3/X4 crystals.


I used Elecraft's 2.7pF NP0 capacitor and put it between the junction of 
the crystals and L33 to ground on the bottom of the RF board.   I found 
which xtal pin it was by tracing which side of the xtals was not 
connected to C174. That lowered the bottom end of the BFO from 
4913.22KHz to 4912.36KHz, without affecting the top end. That was enough 
to let me re-run CAL FIL to get the BFO reach the 1000Hz center 
frequency for all of the R and R-reverse filters.


I have a picture at http://wa5znu.org/log/2005/08/k2-bfo-range.html -- I 
think I got it in the right place because it works!


Leigh / WA5ZNU

Rolf Moberg, OH6KXL wrote:


Hello!

After few weeks building incativity due to hot summer I'm back in my 
shack. My K2 #4759 has been on the air several months. However, BFO 
lower limit frequency didn't meet the required 4912.7 kHz


Leigh, WA5ZNU sent me a mail which he had got from Gary from Elecraft. 
Gary adviced to add 1-4pF NP0-capacitor to junction of X3 and X4. I 
mean the lower junction in schematics. That is connected to L33. I 
added 1.5pF NP0 capacitor on the bottom of the RF board. Other pin of 
capacitor was soldered to ground pad of X4.


BFO is now working OK. You can find the new frequencies below. 
Original frequencies are shown in the brackets.


BFO High Freq. 4917.17 kHz (4917.23 kHz) must be >= 4916.3 kHz
BFO Low Freq.  4912.50 kHz (4912.95 kHz) must be <= 4912.7 kHz

I'd be interested in the technical report why adding a little cap to 
the paralleel of L33 and series with parallel connected crystals 
lowered the oscillator frequency. I'm not an engineer. But I'd like to 
understand.


Should I make CAL FIL (and CAL PLL) again after this mod? I assume 
they are not needed.


Rolf Moberg
oh6kxl


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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun

[Robert Tellefsen]

Yes, it can be done, Mike.
Remember that the 4:1 balun will be happiest seeing
an impedance around 200-300 ohms, though.  The
4:1 ratio really only holds when the impedances are
correct.  Once you throw in a mixed load that is
well away from this value, plus an unknown amount of
reactance, the ratio changes and losses can mount.
Not a serious concern at QRP power levels, but at 100w
it could cook a balun that is seriusly mismatched.

The best way to use baluns is to adjust your balanced
feedline length on a given band to give very little
reactance, regardless of the resistive part of the load
impedance.  The ATU will have an easier time matching
a resistive load than one with combined reactance and
resistance.  The baluns will work best when the loads
are resistive, even if the wrong value.  When you mix in
reactance, the balun will have unpredictable ratios and
losses.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: Mike W [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 4:03 PM
To: Robert Tellefsen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun




On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

> Two things will make matching easier.  Get two
> baluns, 1:1 and 4:1.  Put them on the two
> antenna ports of the ATU

Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1
Can you not use a 2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two ?.

Commons to the two inner windings ( see BL1.pdf ).
 Short them for interconnect on the NO connections for 4:1
 Parallel them on the NC connections for 1:1.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for August 21st, 2005

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   Thank you for joining us this evening.  It felt good to be back on the 
air but I surely need practice :(  Sorry about the flubs and such.  I will 
make sure to set the rig to TEST mode next week and run at 20 wpm until I 
get it right.
   The second check in was from sunny Waikiki, Hawaii and then off to the 
other side of the country with Virginia.  Both of these QNI were with 
KX1s.  Conditions were not as strong as I had experienced on Friday plus 
there was some QSB and QRN.  Never the less there were a number of folks 
willing to brave the heat and humidity to join in.
   As I got under way by calling QRL ? Tom greeted me and mentioned I 
should QSY.  Seems there was a net on frequency who I could hear not at 
all.  Thank you Mr. Hammond, I don't wish to make a pest of myself by 
QRMing others on the band.  Thus the net was run on 14051 kHz this 
afternoon if you were unable to locate us.  That is by my dial so your 
numbers may vary.


On 14051 kHz at 2255z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464
K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608
VE3XL - Ric - ON - Ten Tec? I just could make out your signal but no 
intelligible code.
N4SO - Ken - AL - K2 - 3394   QNI #20   You were very strong into OR until 
you and Tom got your beams aligned.

W6WY - Pete - CA - K2 - 2403  (I think I have the SN correct.)
W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646
AA3WF - Mychael - PA - K2 - 1025

If there are any errors (Pete's SN??, Ric's rig) please send me the 
corrections and I will post them and update the database to reflect the 
correct data.  I truly thought the band would be stronger than it was.  I 
am unsure of where the signals were going but they were not getting 
through as well as I would have liked.  There is always next week.

   73 all,
  Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun

[EricJ]

You can. Somewhere on the web I saw one set up with a little DPDT slide
switch, but I can't find it now that I want it. Hi.

Anyway, it's not that difficult as you have already discovered.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike W
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 4:03 PM
To: Robert Tellefsen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun



On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

> Two things will make matching easier.  Get two baluns, 1:1 and 4:1.  
> Put them on the two antenna ports of the ATU

Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1 Can you not use a
2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two ?.

Commons to the two inner windings ( see BL1.pdf ).
 Short them for interconnect on the NO connections for 4:1  Parallel them on
the NC connections for 1:1.

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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun

[Mike W]

On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

> Two things will make matching easier.  Get two
> baluns, 1:1 and 4:1.  Put them on the two
> antenna ports of the ATU

Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1
Can you not use a 2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two ?.

Commons to the two inner windings ( see BL1.pdf ).
 Short them for interconnect on the NO connections for 4:1
 Parallel them on the NC connections for 1:1.

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RE: [Elecraft] Wire Strippers

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I'll second Tom's recommendation. I've had a set like those shown in the
links below for 20+ years now. There are other types that are "adjustable"
and cheaper because one tool covers everything but they require setting
something for each size of wire. Slow and not as clean and easy as the plier
type, IMHO.

Also, with the plier type you don't really need to know the wire size. Just
pick up the ones that seem right and, with the jaws closed, put the
insulated wire behind the openings. You'll quickly see which one would allow
the wire through but not the insulation. That's the one to use! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Matt:

>What is the consensus on a good (or best) wire stripper for stripping 
>the various wires found in the Elecraft kits?
>
>Any suggestions for an automatic hand stripper for 16 to 26 gauge 
>stranded and solid wire?

Not automatic, but excellent:

#30-#20 AWG
   http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-1&Page=1

#26-#16 AWG
   http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-7&Page=1

#20-#10 AWG
   http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-2&Page=1

May be available at a (slightly) lower price from vendors such as 
www.kiesub.com, but no guarantees.

73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Wire Strippers

[Tom Hammond]

Hi Matt:


What is the consensus on a good (or best) wire stripper for stripping the
various wires found in the Elecraft kits?

Any suggestions for an automatic hand stripper for 16 to 26 gauge stranded
and solid wire?


Not automatic, but excellent:

#30-#20 AWG
  http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-1&Page=1

#26-#16 AWG
  http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-7&Page=1

#20-#10 AWG
  http://www.hakkousa.com/CHPproducts.asp?PID=CSP-30-2&Page=1

May be available at a (slightly) lower price from vendors such as 
www.kiesub.com, but no guarantees.


73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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[Elecraft] Wire Strippers

[Matt and Kelly]

What is the consensus on a good (or best) wire stripper for stripping the
various wires found in the Elecraft kits?

Any suggestions for an automatic hand stripper for 16 to 26 gauge stranded
and solid wire?

Matt - K7OE

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ AT Hike in PA

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all ATers,

Well another section to hike in my quest to hike the entire AT in PA! I
plan to hike the AT from Swatara State Park to the Susquehanna River in
PA. This will be around a 35-mile hike that I plan to start on Tuesday
and finish off on Friday, August 26th. At this point I don't know if I
will take radio gear. So here's my question to the group - Do you want a
qso with me on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday or Friday? If I receive
enough interest, I'll pack the radio gear. Send me an email if you want
a qso  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

I'm also looking for a ride back to my car at Swatara State Park in PA.
Anyone around early Friday afternoon to drive me from Duncannon, PA to
Swatara State Park? If anyone can give me a ride, please email me.

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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Re: [Elecraft] No audio from P5

[Roland & Elvie Whitsitt]

The 1st time this happened to me it was because I plugged into the wrong P5! 
on the control board.  Didn't see the one on the RF board.  But that's the 
kind of bone head guy I am.  Ask the list, I needed lots of help. hi hi
Okay, I got past that, but after only two contacts, indeed my head phone 
jack went out.  When I brought it up on the list, it looks like a common 
problem and a weak spot with the k2.  Now like one list member said, "I hold 
my breath everytime I pull my headphone jack out".  But then, looks like 
elecraft is willing to replace it at least until they can come up with a 
replacement.  There's just not anything in between the headphone jack and 
the speaker.  You might try hooking the speaker up via alligator clips to a 
radio or something to eliminate that possibility that something came 
un-soldered.

Roland in Stockton
k2 #3090
- Original Message - 
From: "Rolf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 4:52 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] No audio from P5



Hi,

My K2 (#4979) worked just fine untill yesterday. After setting L34 for the 
best
signal-to-noise ratio and placing the top cover back onto the chassis I 
found, all
of a sudden, that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And there 
were
no sound from the external speaker jack either. Now I have only audio from 
the

headphone jack. All worked well before. What can possibly have gone wrong?

Rolf   SM0YQC

K2 QRP, KSB2, KDSP2 and K160RX
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[Elecraft] FS: K2/100 with all options, KAT-100

[D.D]

FS: K2/100 with the following options:
 1. K2 S/N 34_  _
 2. KPA100 INTERNAL AMP
 3. KDSP2
 4. KAT100-1
 5. KSB2
 6. K60XV
 7. KNB2
 8. K160RX
 9. MH2 - HANDMIKE(NEW)
 10. FDIMP

This radio is in like new condition upgraded to latest
rev level. 2.5 SSB MOD, Keying Bandwidth Mod, etc.
Filters aligned with Spectrogram. Includes alignment
tools, power cords, interface cable, etc. $1750.00
SHIPPED CONUS ONLY.
 Tnx..Dario/N5QVF












Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 
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RE: [Elecraft] No audio from P5

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Rolf, SM0YQC asked:
"...placing the top cover back onto the chassis I found, all of a sudden,
that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And there were no sound
from the external speaker jack either. Now I have only audio from the
headphone jack. All worked well before. What can possibly have gone wrong?



Personally, I find that such failures are ALWAYS something I touched. As
much as I really, really want to believe that something unrelated failed by
coincidence, I don't think I've ever found that to be the case, Hi!

In this situation, the problem should be in the cable from the speaker to
the jack on the main PC board. Forgive my asking the obvious but:

1) Did you reconnect the plug to the main pc board when you install the top?


2) Is the connector oriented correctly. It is possible to get it backwards
if the tab on the connector has been bent. Inserted backwards, it shorts out
the audio line to the speaker.

3) Did one of the speaker wires break, either at the connector or elsewhere
on the top cover where it moved as you handled it? 

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question

[Robert Tellefsen]

Hello Tom
I'm using a similar setup here for my K2.
The dipole is just 60 ft long, a bit under
a true half wavelength.  However, with the
450 ohm tuned feeders, I use the antenna on
80, 40, 30 and 20 meters.  Works very well
at a height of 42 ft in center and 35 feet
at ends.

Two things will make matching easier.  Get two
baluns, 1:1 and 4:1.  Put them on the two
antenna ports of the ATU.  Now, when you change
bands, put the feeder on the balun that gives you
the lowest swr while the ATU is in CAL S.  This
is effectively bypassing the ATU.  Then switch
in the ATU and match.  From then on, the ATU
memory will remember the settings, so you will
just have to remember which balun goes with which
band or bands.  Works very well.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom McCulloch
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 6:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna question


Hi all,
  I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line.
I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt
amp).  The K2 also has the internal ATU.

  I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now.  Is there anything I should
know about using the K2 with 450 ohm feedline?  (Will I need a balun, or can
I just feed the ladderline directly to the K2's ATU and that will take care
of the match.

Thanks for your help.

Tom, WB2QDG

K2 1103

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[Elecraft] Antenna Question

[James R. Duffey]

Tom - You should use a 1:1 balun to feed the balanced line with the K2
tuner. You can easily make one by wrapping a dozen or so turns of RG-58
through a type 43 or 61 core FT140 or larger. Diz, at



is a good source of these toroids.

Alternately, you can slip a half dozen type 73 ferrite beads over RG-58. The
beads are available from Mouser as part number 2643540002. COvering hte
whole assembly wiht heatchrink tubing keeps things from moving around.

I would avoid using a 4:1 balun. On those bands where the antenna impedance
is low the balun will make it lower and harder to match and will result in
more loss in the tuner.

If you have trouble tuning the antenna, you can add an additional section of
feeder to help the match. Others have popinted this out sa well.

If you feed the antenna with balanced feeder you don't need to make the
dipole resonant, yoiu can make it any convenient length. Some lengths have
advantages over than others, but if you make it shorter than about 0.4
wavelengths, SWR on even a balanced feeder will be high and losses will be
large for long runs. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5

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[Elecraft] external amplifier for the K2

[Ed]

Hi Gang, was wondering if any one is using there K2 with the Tokyo hy-power 
hl 100 bdx

Thanks and 73

Ed
WP4o/4 


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RE: [Elecraft] No audio from P5

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Rolf,

It sounds to me like you have a malfunctioning connector - likely the one on
the end of the speaker cable.  If the terminals were malformed during the
assembly process, they are high on the list of suspects.

It is also possible that the headphone jack has failed - the contact that
provides the path for the speaker audio - you should be able to confirm (or
deny) that condition with a continuity check directly across the solder pads
of the headphone jack.

Along the same lines, and since your K2 is relatively new, you may try
re-flowing the solder joints for the headphone jack.  The pins barely stick
through the board and if insufficient heat is supplied to the pin a poor
solder connection can result (even if it looks good on the surface).

If you have a meter that will respond to audio (AC) voltage, try measuring
the voltage at RF Board P5 directly - if you have AC voltage there, the
problem is in the speaker connector or wire.  You can check the wire with an
ohmmeter.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Hi,
>
> My K2 (#4979) worked just fine untill yesterday. After setting L34 for
> the best
> signal-to-noise ratio and placing the top cover back onto the chassis I
> found, all
> of a sudden, that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And
> there were
> no sound from the external speaker jack either. Now I have only audio
> from the
> headphone jack. All worked well before. What can possibly have gone wrong?
>
> Rolf   SM0YQC
>
> K2 QRP, KSB2, KDSP2 and K160RX
>
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[Elecraft] No audio from P5

[Rolf]

Hi,

My K2 (#4979) worked just fine untill yesterday. After setting L34 for 
the best
signal-to-noise ratio and placing the top cover back onto the chassis I 
found, all
of a sudden, that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And 
there were
no sound from the external speaker jack either. Now I have only audio 
from the

headphone jack. All worked well before. What can possibly have gone wrong?

Rolf   SM0YQC

K2 QRP, KSB2, KDSP2 and K160RX
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

[Charles Greene]

Tom,

While you can run the ladder line right to the shack and connect directly 
to the K2, a balun mounted outside and a coax run to the rig works well and 
you avoid having to run the ladder line inside which sometimes can be 
problematic.  There are several low cost 4:1 baluns on the market including 
the Elecraft one, or you can use a BA-58 or BA-8 kit of ferrite beads over 
the coax from Palomar.   As my late friend George used to say, a 1:1 balun 
works as well in this application as a 4:1.  You need to avoid a length of 
feed line such that the sum of the length of the feed line times its 
velocity factor plus 1/2 the length of the dipole is 1/2 wave length.  Then 
keep the length of coax times its velocity factor unequal to a 1/2 wave 
length too.  Best to keep the coax run short.  That is to avoid a current 
node either at the position of the balun or at the K2.


73,  Chas, W1CG

At 09:57 PM 8/20/2005, Tom McCulloch wrote:

Hi all,
 I'm considering putting up a 40 meter dipole fed with a 450 ladder line. 
I have a K2 which I run at about 5 to watts (I do not have the 100 watt 
amp).  The K2 also has the internal ATU.


 I have always used 50 ohm coax up until now.  Is there anything I should 
know about using the K2 with 450 ohm feedline?  (Will I need a balun, or 
can I just feed the ladderline directly to the K2's ATU and that will 
take care of the match.


Thanks for your help.

Tom, WB2QDG

K2 1103
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 16, Issue 21

[alan alan]

Hi all, 

Ken  aa7jc said

"I have not done much testing yet since I don't have anything that
draws that much current."

I have a couple of drums of mains cable known in the UK as 2.5 T&E,
the 2 conductors are 2.5 mm sq and earth is about 1.5.  The inner end
is available so I soldered the two main conductors together.  UK
rating is about 22A depending on how its installed, rather less
rolled on a drum!  Connect the two 'free' ends to 'short' the PSU. 
You are only looking for 1/2  1/3  1/4 ohm depending on current; it
works very well for plenty long enough for stiffness tests, unroll
for a soak test or it probably wont unroll ever again !

Regards  73  Alan   G0HIQ
 




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