[Elecraft] OT - Test

2006-04-03 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Test de GM4ESD


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: High Altitude Solder

2006-04-03 Thread Weymouth Walker

We don't need no steenking High Attitude Solder
down here in the South ...

Wey K8EAB
 
- Original Message - 
From: Allen C. Ward [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 11:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: High Altitude Solder


It is not necessary to use high altitude solder for altitudes 
under 25,000 meters.  One can merely use etheral flux with
standard 60/40 rosin core.  Above 25,000 meter the solar 
flux dilutes the etheral flux and so high altitude solder IS

required.
Allen KA5N
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft CW Net Report for April 2nd and 3rd, 2006

2006-04-03 Thread wayne burdick

Hi Geoff,

Nice to know someone outside North America is hearing the net. I 
imagine this situation might improve, at least on 20 m, in few months.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 3, 2006, at 2:23 AM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:


Kevin,

Forgot to add in my earlier 40m ECN report that you were the only ECN 
station heard here RST 339, almost 33A, under strong Russian SSB. Lots 
of QRN here as well. 3DA0VB had mentioned QRN earlier, so it seemed to 
be covering a wide area.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD



---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-04-03 Thread rrennard
Did WWV ever send any DST coding?  I'll bet not.  Setting DST is not rocket 
science, just a simple algorithm.

 Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 Meanwhile my dumb atomic clock has decided it doesn't believe in this 
 stuff either, right now I have it on mountain time to keep it ahead an 
 hour of where it was. Is WWV/WWVH not sending info that accounts for 
 daylight savings time any more? 73 de Alex NS6Y
 
 On Apr 2, 2006, at 8:48 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  If the April 28, 2005, Indiana state legislation stands up, on April 
  2, 2006, Indiana will no longer be counted as one of three states 
  which do not Spring ahead from standard to daylight saving time or 
  Fall back from daylight to standard six months later. The Indiana 
  Legislature voted to approve Daylight Saving Time for Indiana and to 
  petition the US Department of Transporation to hold hearings to 
  determine the location of the dividing line between the Eastern and 
  Central time zones, relative to Indiana.
 
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[Elecraft] FS/trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have a nice never used SLV by W6MMA(built) 80-10 mtr and blackwidow pole. 
I am asking $75.00 or B/O or trade for unbuilt kits? or?
  shipping extra, thanks, John KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...

2006-04-03 Thread Tom Hammond


On Wednesday of next week, at two minutes and three seconds after 
1:00 in the morning.


The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06

This won't happen again for a thousand years.

You may now return to your normal stuff!

Regards,

Tom

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[Elecraft] FS/trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have (1) HW9 assembly manual(w7fg) and all schematics(1) Hot Water 
handbook version II. $15.00 ea.+ sh  thanks, John KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] KX1 #2

2006-04-03 Thread Alexandra Carter
Got it today, United Parcel Slingers damaged one corner of the outer 
box a little but the inner's perfect, plus I got some packing peanuts 
to recycle (I'm a recycling fool) and this came at 10AM! I'd have 
gotten right on it already except I have some antenna fiddling to do 
first and other stuff. Whoohoo build time! 73 de Alex NS6Y


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[Elecraft] Neat 12 Volt Rechargeable Battery Pack

2006-04-03 Thread K4tmc
Just picked this up over the weekend and though this would be a great item to 
have around for field activities. 

Radio Shack has a neat small rechargable battery pack on sale for only 
$19.95.  It is the Power Up Rechargeable Jump-Starter, #270-4130.  It is a nice 
compact size of 6 X 9.5 X 8 inches, which includes a carrying handle.  The 
internal battery is a 12V 12Ah sealed lead acid type.  There is a built-in 
charger 
circuit with molded-in standard male 120 VAC connectors - just plug-in your 
standard extension cord.  There are two short cables with plastic-coated clamps 
for connecting to your car battery terminals to do an emergency start when your 
standard battery is low.  Also included is an internal auto 12 VDC socket 
(cigarette lighter).  There are the standard idiot-proof status lights.

Sorry, but they did not include Anderson Power Pole connections.  

And, it would have been even neater if they had included an 120 VAC inverter 
circuit so you could recharge you cell phone or laptop batteries while out in 
the field.

BTW, I have not conenctions with Radio Shack other than being a happy 
customer.

73,
Henry Pollock K4TMC
K2/100 #3??? (Oops, I forgot...turning 54 has its downfalls...)
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Re: [Elecraft] RF Board K2 #5422 - Paneling?

2006-04-03 Thread w6jd
The 2-D fasteners on the rf board are for screws to secure the side panels to 
the board. The second set of fasteners are mounted ON the side panels to secure 
the top cover. Look carefully at the drawings in the manual.

The bail is very stiff to prevent its falling off the bottom cover or 
collapsing.
There are several techniques for installing it, you can check the archives and 
select the one you prefer. My favorite is to secure one of the feet and install 
the second foot loosely using longer bolts. This allows enough flexibility to 
mount the bail. Then temporarily tighten the longer bolts and replace them, 
one at a time, with the correct size.

Good luck.

73,
Doug, W6JD
K2/100 #1626
-- Original message -- 
From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 
 Well I got thru K2 #5422 - Control Board, and 
 Front Panel pcb. I've started the RF Board and 
 have finished installing items up to page 38 in 
 manual. WW Couple items are tacking 
 off course? 
 
 1. K2 Manual Page 38 talks about installing two (2) 
 2-D Fasteners Blocks on each of the side panels, 
 in newly masking-tape-removed areas. 
 
 Then page 39 instructs to install these two (2) 
 side panels in place, to the two (2) 2-D Fasteners 
 that are already installed on the outside edges of 
 the RF Board? Why did page 38 instruct to install 
 2-D Fasteners, which were already installed from 
 way back when in RF Board section? 
 
 2. K2 Manual Page 39 then goes on to instruct 
 installation of two (2) Oval Feet and Tilt Bail onto 
 bottom cover. BUT -- Tilt Bail is about 1/2 too 
 long, 
 when one screws in-place the Oval Feet at the 2 
 bottom cover locations. I'm sure they don't want 
 me to attempt to bend the 3/16 metal Tilt Bail 
 inward by 1/2? Its a good 3/8 or 1/2 too long? 
 
 Have I gotten new version metal covers and old 
 version bails and 2-D fasteners? Or possibly is 
 the Tilt Bail I got - actually for another Elecraft 
 radio, like a K1? 
 
 It seems odd to be installing, on page 38 and 39 
 side panels, bottome panels, and tilt bails at this 
 early construction stage of the RF BOARD? 
 
 HELP 
  the boards, soldering, and resistance checks 
 seems to be tracking right nice! (PS PS PS - Digital 
 VM/MM works MUCH better!!! :) 
 
 Fred N3CSY 
 K2 # 5422 
 Spring Hill, FL 
 4/02 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 30-80 module for the kx1

2006-04-03 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.
Some guy here.  Yes, Lloyd K3ESE and I both experience this problem.  
Before the 3080 board, mine put out 3.5W-4W on 13.8v.
Afterwards, it's down to 2W.  It didn't keep me from making a nice 80M 
contact which I reported here along with the problem.


It's possible I've made a building mistake and the fix will just be 
clearer instructions for me to follow better.
I'm confident that Wayne's fix will help when it comes out, but I 
suspect I'll be re-winding my LPF again.


Leigh / WA5ZNU

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Alex NS6Y wrote:

to change the toroids in the 3080 module, the present one lowers the 
KX1's power to 2W across the bands. Is this true? My kx1 comes 
tomorrow, with the 3080 backordered, and I don't mind, I'm sure 
Elecraft will come up with some new version that increases output 
across the bands hihi!


-

Stand by. I think Wayne's away this weekend, but there is a solution in the
works. 


All along a *few* KX1s have exhibited lower output, apparently due to normal
manufacturing variations in the transistors. Gary at Elecraft support has
helped owners make a few mods that corrected the problem on an individual
basis. 


The KXB3080 seems to exacerbate this effect on some KX1s while others
happily pump out full power. This problem didn't really become obvious until
after the Field Test was completed. Several days ago Wayne went into
Warp-Drive to evaluate the issue and validate a solution for those who
experience it. As of Friday I understand the fix was tested and ready to
implement for those who need it so all KX1s will put out somewhere between 3
and 4 watts with a 14 VDC supply and 1 to 1.5 watts on the internal battery,
including those equipped with the KXB3080.

Look for more announcements to show up in the next couple of days. The
bottom line is that your KX1 will meet the full specifications with or
without the KXB30 or KXB3080 modules installed. 

Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks

2006-04-03 Thread rrennard
A few possibilities
a) you are so close to the transmitter that the clock is overloaded
b) the clock was not built with any reasonable DST algorithm
c) you live in Indiana where the DST rules just changed this year, and your 
clock is from Taiwan
d) the clock you have thinks it is in Liberia where there is no DST

N7WY

 Craig D. Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 We have a total of 8 automatic WWV synched clocks of various types
 distributed around the house.  When I got up this morning, 6 of them had
 switched time properly.  The seventh one did its thing a couple hours later.
 One still hasn't switched at all, but I'm giving it another day or two.
 Curiously, one of the ones that did switch properly switched back to
 standard time sometime during the day.  Go figure.  And I live 30 miles from
 the WWV transmitter.
 
 ... Craig   AC0DS 
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] K2 first light

2006-04-03 Thread Darwin, Keith
Well, I got to the point of doing the alignment and getting the rig to
receive on 40 meters.  The last step was to calibrate the S-meter.
That's when I discovered the meter wasn't working.  AGC worked, meter
did not.  I tried redoing calibration and making sure the meter was
enabled.  No luck.  I checked components around U2 on the control board
and all was as it should be.  Finally I just redid the solder joints
around U2, the J connectors on the control board, RF board and also
around the s-meter chip and driver chip.  That did it, the meter is
working fine now.
 
I've been very careful with my solder joints, doing all my soldering
under the magnifier lamp and examining each joint afterwards.  Still,
there were apparently some bad ones.  Fortunately that is all that has
been an issue so far.  The rest of the tests  alignment have all been
comfortably in spec the first time.  Nice!
 
First impressions of the K2 receiver - Wow, this is nice.  It is
definitely a quiet receiver, not adding any noise to the band that
shouldn't be there.  I compared it to my IC-735 backup rig and the K2 is
much nicer to listen to.  I'm going to like this rig.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
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[Elecraft] K2 glitch finally found!

2006-04-03 Thread John Wiener
Gary Surrency must be the most patient person on the earth.  He just  
emailed me twice within 1/2 hour of my questions.


I can now report that I HAVE LCD READOUT!

I had to replace all electrolytics on the Control Board to find my  
error.  I found that I soldered C45 (on the bottom of the board)  
across pads of U6 instead of U8.  I missed it on several rechecks  
because it was new and not listed on parts placement diagrams in the  
back of the manual.


I want to thank everyone who has helped me so far...Don Wilhelm comes  
to mind.


Also, thanks to N0SS for pix of circuit boards.

Now, I have a question (of course).
My first resolder job was C13 on Control Board was, naturally, the  
worst.  On replacing the cap, I note that the pad is damaged on the  
negative lead.  I soldered over to an undamaged part (I hope  
successfully).


My question: is the negative lead supposed to be directly to ground?  
(perhaps soldered on the top of the board)  I get about a meg of  
resistance between the lead and ground.

Is this a problem?

Now to build the RF probe.

By the way, I am now a ham again ... after a hiatus of over 30  
years.  I just passed levels 1 thru 4 in one sitting over the weekend.
I didn't expect to pass the Extra but I studied like hell.  The ARRL  
books are fantastic.  Couldn't have done it w/o them.


So, I'll be able to use a new call sign within a few weeks!

John
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RE: [Elecraft] 30-80 module for the kx1

2006-04-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Leigh, WA5ZNU: 

Some guy here.  Yes, Lloyd K3ESE and I both experience this problem.  
Before the 3080 board, mine put out 3.5W-4W on 13.8v. Afterwards, it's down
to 2W.  It didn't keep me from making a nice 80M 
contact which I reported here along with the problem.

It's possible I've made a building mistake and the fix will just be 
clearer instructions for me to follow better.
I'm confident that Wayne's fix will help when it comes out, but I 
suspect I'll be re-winding my LPF again.
---

Don't take bets on rewinding those FL1 toroids. That isn't the fix. And it
isn't anything you need to do differently in the KXB3080 installation.
That's FB too, I'm sure. This is a whole different issue that has to do with
normal variation in the gain of the transistors in the transmitter that is
simply showing up in more rigs now that it covers a much winder range of
frequencies. 

Sit tight. You'll hear more momentarily... 

Ron AC7AC

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Fwd: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-04-03 Thread Mark Bayern
Yes, WWV does encode the DST bit. See
http://tf.nist.gov/stations/wwvtimecode.htm for more info on the
format.

Mark  AD5SS



On 4/3/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Did WWV ever send any DST coding?  I'll bet not.  Setting DST is not rocket 
 science, just a simple algorithm.

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RE: [Elecraft] RF Board K2 #5422 - Paneling?

2006-04-03 Thread Darwin, Keith
I'm too just finished going through those steps with my K2.

1.  2D Fasteners.  Check it again.  You should have two on each side
panel and the rest mount to the RF board.  When you attach the RF board
to the side panels, the 2D fasteners on the side panels are not used!
They are there to hold the front panel and the top.  You attach the side
panels to the 2D fasteners on the RF board

2.  Yea, the bail is very (very very) tight.  I mounted the left side
first then used a center punch as a lever to align the holes while I got
a screw started.  It was a pain and when I was done the bottom panel had
a bow to it.  But, once you get it mounted things straighten out nicely
and the bail has a nice *snap* to it when it is opened or closed.

Mounting these parts seems premature but hey, you have to do it
eventually and the bail can be useful during the coming alignment  test
steps so I'd go with it.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] RF Board K2 #5422 - Paneling?


Well I got thru K2 #5422 - Control Board, and Front Panel pcb.  I've
started the RF Board and have finished installing items up to page 38 in
manual.  WW  Couple items are tacking off course?

1.  K2 Manual Page 38 talks about installing two (2) 2-D Fasteners
Blocks on each of the side panels, in newly masking-tape-removed areas.


Then page 39 instructs to install these two (2) side panels in
place, to the two (2) 2-D Fasteners
that are already installed on the outside edges of
the RF Board?   Why did page 38 instruct to install
2-D Fasteners, which were already installed from way back when in RF
Board section?

2.  K2 Manual Page 39 then goes on to instruct installation of two (2)
Oval Feet and Tilt Bail onto bottom cover.  BUT -- Tilt Bail is about
1/2 too long, when one screws in-place the Oval Feet at the 2 bottom
cover locations.  I'm sure they don't want me to attempt to bend the
3/16 metal Tilt Bail inward by 1/2?  Its a good 3/8 or 1/2 too long?

Have I gotten new version metal covers and old version bails and 2-D
fasteners?  Or possibly is the Tilt Bail I got - actually for another
Elecraft radio, like a K1?

It seems odd to be installing, on page 38 and 39 side panels, bottome
panels, and tilt bails at this early construction stage of the RF BOARD?

HELP
 the boards, soldering, and resistance checks seems to be tracking
right nice!  (PS PS PS - Digital VM/MM works MUCH better!!! :)

Fred N3CSY
K2 # 5422
Spring Hill, FL
4/02





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[Elecraft] DST info on WWV and WWVH

2006-04-03 Thread John R. Lonigro
I don't know if my previous post made it.  If not, that's OK because 
there was an omission:
I did a Google search on NIST 432 and got the NIST Special Pub 432 - 
Time and Frequency Services.  It seems like WWVB bits 57 and 58 
transmit the DST data (page 20).  WWV and WWVH have DST data on bit 55 
(page 47).  I have an older edition of the same publication (which is 
why I knew the publication number) and it is interesting reading.


73's,

John AA0VE

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Did WWV ever send any DST coding?  I'll bet not.  Setting DST is not rocket 
science, just a simple algorithm.
 


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[Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar

2006-04-03 Thread Richard Powers
I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably for 10 thru 40 
meters while out camping.
   
  73, Dick WB9PWQ
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[Elecraft] FS Trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have (1) HW9 (W7FG) assembly manual.$15.00 
(1) HW handbook 2nd edition $15.00

  shipping extra.
 Thanks, John KF7OM

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-04-03 Thread Fred Jensen

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Setting DST is not rocket science

Well, no, unless you live in Indiana, where it apparently depends on 
street address.  I actually have done rocket science during Apollo, and 
I'll take that over street addresses anytime.  Last I heard, they are 
going to do DST statewide but left it up to some legislature to 
determine the new boundary between EST and CST.  I won't hold my breath 
for that action.  Hawaii is easy ... no DST.  I think AZ is similar if 
not the same.


Where does all the saved daylight actually go?  It was light when I 
got up, and dark around dinner at 1730 last week.  Now it's dark when I 
get up and light until I get the dishes washed.


I wasn't aware that WWV ever sent DST stuff ... thought it was 
programmed into some but not all of the atomic clocks.  My Atomic 
Clock is on UTC in my shack, so it doesn't care, although it keeps 
pretty good time -- within about 3 sec.  Wonder what chaos could be 
caused if UTC went to DST?


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 first light

2006-04-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Folks (especially new builders),

Perhaps I should dust off my old adage here in the reflector:

First check the soldering, then re-check the soldering, and when you have
completed that, check the soldering!

Seriously, soldering failures is the most common cause of problems.  Use an
adequately hot soldering iron - 700 degrees to 800 degrees so you can 'melt
solder' quickly and then get the heat away from the solder joint.  I have
worked on many kits where the solder has melted but only on either the pad
or the component lead, but not both - this is a good indication of
inadequate heat to the joint - be certain that both members receive adequate
heat to flow the solder.  Do not be afraid of the higher soldering
temperatures, it takes both temperature and time combined to create a heat
related failure, so use a high enough temperature to keep the time element
to a minimum (2 to 3 seconds is ideal, 5 seconds is likely too long) and no
damage will be done.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 ...

 I've been very careful with my solder joints, doing all my soldering
 under the magnifier lamp and examining each joint afterwards.  Still,
 there were apparently some bad ones.  Fortunately that is all that has
 been an issue so far.  The rest of the tests  alignment have all been
 comfortably in spec the first time.  Nice!

 ...

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 glitch finally found!

2006-04-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,
Yes, 1 megohm of resistance to ground for the negative side of Ctrl Bd C13
is a problem, and yes it should be connected to ground.  If you have damaged
the through-plated hole during your removal techniques, you should connect
the lead to ground somewhere on the back of the Control Board - adding a
wire to the center leg of the 8 volt regulator would be a good way to do
it - because soldering the capacitor on the component side of the board
would be most difficult - that capacitor will be responding to lower
frequency noise rather than HF, so a moderate length added wire should work
just fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 ...
 Now, I have a question (of course).
 My first resolder job was C13 on Control Board was, naturally, the
 worst.  On replacing the cap, I note that the pad is damaged on the
 negative lead.  I soldered over to an undamaged part (I hope
 successfully).

 My question: is the negative lead supposed to be directly to ground?
 (perhaps soldered on the top of the board)  I get about a meg of
 resistance between the lead and ground.
 Is this a problem?
 ...


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[Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important for newbies?

2006-04-03 Thread Martin Gillen
I was just going out to buy equipment to build this when I noticed:

 Fine-tip temperature-controlled ESD-safe soldering station with 700 to 800°F 
 tip
 (370-430°C). Recommend a spade tip approx. 0.05 (0.13 mm) wide. Do not use a
 high-wattage iron or soldering gun since this can damage pads, traces, or the 
 parts
 themselves.

I know it's minor but 0.05 is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm...

Looking forward to getting my 80m on the air!

73
Martin.
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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...

2006-04-03 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Tom, N0SS wrote:

On Wednesday [of next week - sic], at two minutes and three seconds after
1:00 in the morning.

The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06

This won't happen again for a thousand years.
==
My calculations say it will happen every 100 years.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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RE: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar

2006-04-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The Elecraft T1 is a nifty tuner with built in SWR and power metering that
will handle up 20 watts!

The biggest problem I have with it is that I keep forgetting where I put it.
It gets lost under a large post-it! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Richard Powers
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 7:29 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar


I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably for 10 thru
40 meters while out camping.
   
  73, Dick WB9PWQ ___
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RE: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar

2006-04-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dick,

Have you considered the T1 tuner from Elecraft?  It has a lot of nice
capabilities and a great range as well as small size.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably
 for 10 thru 40 meters while out camping.



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Re: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar

2006-04-03 Thread Alexandra Carter
You know, Elecraft makes a NEAT little tuner that's smaller and lighter 
than anything, puts the Emtech, BLT, etc in the dark. Literally as 
small and light as a pack of ciggies.  I'd get one of those. 73 de Alex 
NS6Y.


On Apr 3, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Richard Powers wrote:

I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably for 
10 thru 40 meters while out camping.


  73, Dick WB9PWQ


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[Elecraft] WWV DST

2006-04-03 Thread rrennard
Mark - you are correct... I am just to used to working with the superior system 
described at 

http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pubs/gps/sigspec/gpssps1.pdf

that is only good to about 100 nanoseconds anywhere on the planet, but it has 
no clue about DST.   The starting and ending dates for DST are easy to 
determine if you can figure out which day of the month it is, and what day of 
the week it is.

N7WY



 Mark Bayern [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 Yes, WWV does encode the DST bit. See
 http://tf.nist.gov/stations/wwvtimecode.htm for more info on the
 format.
 
 Mark  AD5SS
 
 
 
 On 4/3/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Did WWV ever send any DST coding?  I'll bet not.  Setting DST is not rocket 
  science, just a simple algorithm.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important for newbies?

2006-04-03 Thread Alexandra Carter
Weller WTCPT baby! Read the solder tutorial on the Elecraft site, it's 
the best I've seen anywhere! 73 de Alex NS6Y


On Apr 3, 2006, at 11:34 AM, Martin Gillen wrote:


I was just going out to buy equipment to build this when I noticed:

Fine-tip temperature-controlled ESD-safe soldering station with 700 
to 800°F tip
(370-430°C). Recommend a spade tip approx. 0.05 (0.13 mm) wide. Do 
not use a
high-wattage iron or soldering gun since this can damage pads, 
traces, or the parts

themselves.


I know it's minor but 0.05 is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm...

Looking forward to getting my 80m on the air!

73
Martin.

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RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important for newbies?

2006-04-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Martin wrote:

I know it's minor but 0.05 is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm...

-

Thanks Martin!! All the field testers, Wayne, Gary and I all missed it! 

It's doubly embarrassing for me because I live in metric. Here in the USA
much of the scientific/technical stuff is all in metric and I normally
convert back to English units for something like this. Shoot, I even cook in
Metric. All my recepies are in grams and milliliters. 

I peeked and see that we had it right in the KX1 manual too.

Ron (fumble-fingers) AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...

2006-04-03 Thread Tony Morgan

Tom,
You just made my day!
Thanks  :  )

Tony W7GO

Tom Hammond wrote:


On Wednesday of next week, at two minutes and three seconds after 1:00 
in the morning.


The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06

This won't happen again for a thousand years.

You may now return to your normal stuff!

Regards,

Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...

2006-04-03 Thread Ken Alexander
Thank goodness!  I didn't feel like waiting 999 years
for the next one.  But 99 years is a piece of cake!  
8-)

73 - Ken, VE3HLS



--- Earl W Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Tom, N0SS wrote:
 
 On Wednesday [of next week - sic], at two minutes
 and three seconds after
 1:00 in the morning.
 
 The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06
 
 This won't happen again for a thousand years.
 ==
 My calculations say it will happen every 100 years.
 
 73, de Earl, K6SE
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[Elecraft] K1 AGC time constant

2006-04-03 Thread Rick Dettinger
I changed C31 on the RF board to 1uf  but it still seems very slow.  When I
remove an S9 siginal  (50uv) it takes about 15 seconds for the S meter to
decay to one bar.  I used a non polorized electrolitic cap as that is what
they had at RS.  It is physically larger than the original cap but there is
plenty of room.  I am not sure what a non polorized electrolitic capacitor
is but there are no polarity marks,  which I haven't seen before.  Should I
try a smaller value for C31? Thanks - Rick - K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-04-03 Thread Ken Alexander
--- Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Where does all the saved daylight actually go?  It
 was light when I 
 got up, and dark around dinner at 1730 last week. 
 Now it's dark when I 
 get up and light until I get the dishes washed.

We never see it.  All of the saved daylight ends up on
the other side of the world.  It's a little-known fact
that Daylight Savings Time was invented by the
government of Fernando do Torishima to scam an extra
hour of daylight from the west to keep the 20m band
open longer over there for visiting DXpeditions. 

Glad I was able to help...

73 - Ken, VE3HLS
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