[Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page 57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when I finished soldering without causing heat damage to near by components but I am finding it nearly impossible to trim the leads now. I have the recommended angle cutting tool but I still can't get down to board level with them to cut them anywhere near flush. Any ideas. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
Lee: I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page 57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when I finished soldering without causing heat damage to near by components but I am finding it nearly impossible to trim the leads now. I have the recommended angle cutting tool but I still can't get down to board level with them to cut them anywhere near flush. What I've had to do in a couple instances was to merely grab the exposed lead with a pair of needle-nosed pliers (actually a pair of hemostats) and then pull a little on the lead and rock it back ;n forth until it breaks AT the soldered joint. Then I go back and re-flow (re-heat) the solder around the lead to ensure that I still have a solid connection. So far, this has worked in all instances. Another method is to pre-cut the leads to length before you solder. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
I found, to do neat Bottom devices - I would pre-bend device leads ahead of time. And I would then trim devices leads, so that they extended just enough up and above the PCB board's top surface before I installed device. Then carefully hold the device against the PCB board's bottom surface - and then slightly and gently, bend each lead - in order to keep device in place. Then sold from board's top! After a while, I got pretty good at allowing very short device leads, from poking thru on top! Fred FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
Here's a different approach. Don't sweat it. If you can't get down there with a small pair of cutters, then the excess lead isn't going to produce any poke wounds in your hands as you handle the board. Get as close as you can and leave what you can't I recall some difficulty when I built my K2 but I don't recall actually having to leave more than about 1/16 inch sticking up. I did some pre-trimming but I doubt I was smart enough to know when to do it. I just followed the manual. Hmm, you're doing the bottom components. Yep, that is when I did the bulk of my pre-cut activities. Didn't the manual say to pre-trim the parts? - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Lee H I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page 57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when I finished soldering without causing heat damage to near by components but I am finding it nearly impossible to trim the leads now. I have the recommended angle cutting tool but I still can't get down to board level with them to cut them anywhere near flush. Any ideas. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Gazzillion SMT's!
I opened the top lid, to add filters - and was amazed to see the technology they are pouring into these rigs. Must be hundreds of SMT's and lentil-sized micro variable C's - just packing the 1 or 2 upper boards in 706. As a builder of many kits - have to say, in 2006 - I'm amazed at what they are now putting into commercial HF mobile small footprint transceivers. It's unfortunate they couldn't have built a good receiver with all that stuff in there. Just goes to show that more is not always better. The receiver in the 706 is ok for casual ragchewing but collapses under any sort of challenging condx. You'll appreciate your K2 even more, after a contest weekend on 40CW with the 706! :-) John K5MO (IC706MkIIG and K2 owner) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
Lee, I do not pre-trim the leads (but that is an excellent way to avoid the problem), but in places where it is tight to get the cutters in, I bend the lead over and point the cutter tips straight down toward the board to clip the lead. It is not quite flush cut, but it is close to the solder pad. I think pre-trimming is a pain because the part usually falls out when the board is flipped over to solder it in. Resistors can be soldered on the same side as the component easily, but a capacitor is more difficult to solder on the same side as the component unless it is mounted a bit above the board (try that with an electrolytic G). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lee H Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 5:11 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page 57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when I finished soldering without causing heat damage to near by components but I am finding it nearly impossible to trim the leads now. I have the recommended angle cutting tool but I still can't get down to board level with them to cut them anywhere near flush. Any ideas. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.9/490 - Release Date: 10/20/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cutting component leads
The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-)) Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads protruding through a solder pad should NEVER be cut off flush with the board. They should be cut off at a length that is several diameters of the wire ... at least ... above the board. Yes, there are instances of machine-finished boards where the entire lead side of the board is ground or sanded off, but this is a process usually found in the mass-produced consumer product industry. Wiggling a lead to break(!) it off isn't the way to do it. The component's leads should be pre-cut to the desired length before insertion into the holes for soldering. FWIW ... 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Cutting component leads
-Original Message- From: Ken Kopp The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-)) Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads protruding through a solder pad should NEVER be cut off flush with the board. They should be cut off at a length that is several diameters of the wire ... at least ... above the board. Above the board or above the top of the solder joint? Why leave wire protruding? - Keith KD1E - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cutting component leads
At 09:30 AM 10/23/2006, Ken Kopp wrote... The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-)) Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads protruding through a solder pad should NEVER be cut off flush with the board. They should be cut off at a length that is several diameters of the wire ... at least ... above the board. Time for a refresher class. According to the current standard, NASA-STD-8739.3 w/Change 2, December 1997, Section 8.5(.3) ( http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/sldrbch2.pdf ): Straight-Through Lead Terminations. Part leads terminated straight through the PWB shall extend a minimum of 0.5mm (0.020 inch) and a maximum of 2.29mm (0.090 inch) .020 is one lead diameter for a 1/8W resistor, and can be less than one diameter for larger parts. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: TenTec Corsair problem
Sorry about the space, but I know a few folks had the TT Corsair (not II) before getting an Elecraft. A friend has a problem with his rig. I suspect it is a VFO/PTO problem. The last four digits on every band jump all over the place, form the sounds of the audio, the rig is running all over the frequency range of the VFO/PTO. He doesn't have schematics for the rig, but I would suspect either a bad voltage regulator or clock/oscillator. Any help? Thanks, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cutting component leads
The NASA wonks are correct in their citation of construction practices. However, as hams we like to know why as well as thou shalt not: In this case the bad thing being avoided is called cold-working. The solder used to solder parts is an alloy of two of more metals, which arrange themselves in a lattice of greatest strength immediately before solidification of the joint. Any deformation of that joint after solidification (including that caused by thermal expansion and contraction) is called cold-working, and embrittles the joint to some degree, setting it up for future failure in a way which is nearly undetectable by our feeble eyes. This is why you shouldn't use toenail clippers, etc. to get at the last nub of an exposed lead -- by doing so you are cold-working the joint. Clip it instead at the top of the meniscus formed by the solder on the lead. FWIW, SMD parts are designed to thermally expand at roughly the same rate as PCB material in order to minimize this phenomenon, or else they are constructed so as to relieve thermal stress. Darwin, Keith wrote: Above the board or above the top of the solder joint? Why leave wire protruding? - Keith KD1E - -- Marshall Jose, WA3VPZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
Old fingernail clippers sometimes work. Geoff, K6TFZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: TenTec Corsair problem
J F wrote: Sorry about the space, but I know a few folks had the TT Corsair (not II) before getting an Elecraft. A friend has a problem with his rig. I suspect it is a VFO/PTO problem. The last four digits on every band jump all over the place, form the sounds of the audio, the rig is running all over the frequency range of the VFO/PTO. He doesn't have schematics for the rig, but I would suspect either a bad voltage regulator or clock/oscillator. Any help? The Corsair PTO, like that of many of the older the Tentec rigs, is greased with some form of pig fat (not really) which gets hard after a few years and needs to be replaced. Although you will hear otherwise, the only correct way to do this is to remove the PTO, disassemble it, clean the parts, regrease, and reassemble. Tentec sells a kit to do this for $25 which includes all the parts which can wear, the correct grease, and instructions. I am currently in the process of doing this to an Argonaut and I've done a Corsair in the past. It looks scary but is actually not so hard with the instructions (you *do* need the instructions). Good luck. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Construction/Updates help
I will be building a K2, all options, that was originally purchased in 2004. Are there modifications that I need to do? Firmware that needs to be updated? I assume that I should use the current construction manuals. Will I find parts changes? What else should I look for? -- John Kitchens, NS6X PO Box 178 Somis, CA 93066 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] C44
Hi Folks, I'm back from a two year bout with various health issues. During my absence, something changed on the control board leaving C44 grounded on one end and the other end is connected to nothing and no part to put in the holes. I apologize if this was discussed before, and it's great to be back! Can someone shed some light on this deal? Thanks, Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Changes for KPA100 Toroid Guy
Hi, Bill K4DXU mentioned the changes to L16 and RFC1 in the latest revision of the KPA100 and he is correct about those two, but there are more changes and deletions, and anyone wanting to bring their earlier model KPA100 would probably do better to wait for the official information to be posted by Elecraft. ( IMHO) I'm sure they won't be long in supplying the information. I have made one of the new revision KPA100's and the alterations are pretty straight forward, but I guess it up to the Firm whether or when they release a mini kit to effect the changes for those wanting to make alterations? CheersRon ZL1TW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.10/491 - Release Date: 23/10/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Speaker shield
I was reading about KPA100 shield upgrade. I noticed the speaker shield and was wondering if there was any benefit to a K2? Especially one without the vco shield mod? Any thoughts?? Richard Kent K2 5296 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] C44
On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 11:10:35 -0700, William M. Spaulding, SR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Folks, I'm back from a two year bout with various health issues. During my absence, something changed on the control board leaving C44 grounded on one end and the other end is connected to nothing and no part to put in the holes. I apologize if this was discussed before, and it's great to be back! Can someone shed some light on this deal? C44 shouldn't be used (Page 21 first paragraph; K2 Manual Rev F) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
