Re: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Li-ion battery
I wonder just how close these cells are to being classified as explosives. How does the energy density compare? Our modern equipment requires higher and higher powers from smaller packages. David G3UNA > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: 2007/01/04 Thu AM 06:35:59 GMT > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Li-ion battery > > I do not know the exact chemistry of the Lithium-ion battery reactions, but > based on my inorganic chemistry experience, it would not surprise me if there > is actually metallic lithium in the battery when it is fresh; the lithium > gets > ionized as the battery is used. Metallic lithium is like metallic sodium and > potassium: it ignites spontaneously in the presence of moisture (releasing > flammable hydrogen gas in the process). Once started, it will also burn in > air in > the absence of moisture. Lithium-based batteries do store a lot of energy, > but it means they have an unfortunate failure mode. Still, they are awfully > useful. > Rob > KC6ROC > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > - Email sent from www.ntlworld.com Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software Visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Customs duty for elecraft kits to UK
Many thanks to the guys who replied on this one. I hope to place my K2 order today. Martin M0KWV Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. *** -- Scanned by e:scan V3 (powered by Postini) -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Li-ion battery... Exploding Movie.
Look at this video, I do not want that with my Elecraft eqiupment! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeWq6rWzChw Best 73's Roland PE1PHU K2/100-twin#3195 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
I hooked up an old bug to my keyer paddle. I used a couple of junkbox diodes and made sure that they matched as far as forward voltage. [.542 and .541 on my radio shack meters diode check mode.] I have also tried a 0.01 cap across the bug. Even in test mode (so it isn't RF in the shack that is causing the problem) when I send a string of dots with the bug, the IAMBIC mode(which I do NOT use with my paddle) kicks in and instead of a string of dots, I get alternating dots and dashes. I HAVE cleaned the contacts on the bug It seems to happen more when the dot weight is correct(or light). If I make the dots 'heavy', it doesn't seem to happen as often. USUALLY, the first few dots are ok, but occasionally it starts dashing me early in the string. Suggestions? -- -bz-"it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it?" [every day] [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chemistry.lsu.edu/bz 225-578-5381 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
I may be proven wrong someday, but I believe that 'problem' is caused by contact bounce at the key (or bug). Cleaning the contacts may not be sufficient, and it will vary from keying device to keying device depending on the type and condition of the surfaces at the contact area. I cling to my contact bounce theory because it rarely occurs if the diodes are connected to a computer output. I have heard that a tiny drop of NoOxIt or similar product on the contacts helps, but I have not tried it myself. One idea (although it makes things more complicated) is to key a mercury wetted reed relay (if you can find one) with the bug and drive the diodes with the relay contacts. The mercury wetted contacts do not bounce (well, they could but it is greatly reduced). The other thing that works is to use an external keyer (I use the K1EL K12 keyer) which has a separate input wired for the hand key. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > I hooked up an old bug to my keyer paddle. > > I used a couple of junkbox diodes and made sure that they matched as > far as forward voltage. [.542 and .541 on my radio shack meters diode > check mode.] I have also tried a 0.01 cap across the bug. > > Even in test mode (so it isn't RF in the shack that is causing the > problem) when I send a string of dots with the bug, the IAMBIC > mode(which I do NOT use with my paddle) kicks in and instead of a string > of dots, I get alternating dots and dashes. > > I HAVE cleaned the contacts on the bug > > It seems to happen more when the dot weight is correct(or light). If I > make the > dots 'heavy', it doesn't seem to happen as often. > > USUALLY, the first few dots are ok, but occasionally it starts dashing > me early in the string. > > Suggestions? > -- > -bz-"it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it?" [every day] > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.4/615 - Release Date: 1/3/2007 1:34 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
Don Wilhelm wrote: One idea (although it makes things more complicated) is to key a mercury wetted reed relay I use a simple 12v reed relay which I got at radio shack. I put a 10 uf capacitor across the coil to absorb the bounce spikes; otherwise the relay will follow the bouncing! It will work for a very long time on a 9v battery or you can use a 12v supply. It works perfectly with autodetect mode on my K2. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Lithium Ion Bateries
I was thumbing through the magaine rack at Borders last week and in one of the electronic-connumications-type magazines there was a great article on Lithium Ion Battery failures. I wish now I had purchased the magazine as I don't remember the publications name. Apparently heat and high currents are such a major problem that most all "reputable" battery makers go to great lengths to build in thermal and current protection. Long and short or it is that when they start failing there can be a thermal runaway which causes a meltdown and massive out-gassing whcih can be followed by smoke and fire. I'd suggest not driving a nail through one of these guys... __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
I'm confused. If you don't use iambic mode in the K2 when using paddles then you must be using an external keyer with your paddles. In that case, the K2 is in Hand mode and you should be able to hook the bug up to the K2 with no problems. My paddles are packed away. I use a straight key and a bug. I run the K2 in hand mode and it works flawlessly. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: Bob 'bz' Zinn ... when I send a string of dots with the bug, the IAMBIC mode(which I do NOT use with my paddle) kicks in and instead of a string of dots, I get alternating dots and dashes. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re:kpa100
thanks for the reply on my question. when i get my general ticket i'll check it out.then decide if i want to do it, unless i get the bug to smell more solder smoke. ron, kc0tdj ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Installing KSB2 and Rework eliminator
Phil, I just finished building k2/100 #5884 with KDSP2, KNB, KAT100-1, K60XV, K160RX and KSB2 adapter. As also a former electronic tech (FCC 1st phone, 2nd telegraph w/radar endorsement, TEA CET in Audio, radio/television & industrial electronics, a couple of year board repair of mini computers, taught basic electronics and avionics) I, too, am not afraid to unsolder things (the radio shack unsoldering iron, with its little rubber bulb, really works!). I STRONGLY advise that you spend the 17 bux on the Rework Eliminator. I only regret that I didn't build mine first and have my K2 'upgrade ready' from the start. I have needed to use the RE modules a couple of times already. I needed to remove various modules for testing. For example, I needed to remove the KDSP2 to get to TP3 to check the 4 MHz oscillator calibration. Without the RE, I would have had to (re) install some jumpers (and possibly made a damaging mistake) in order to be sure that everything was working right while making the measurements. With the RE, I just plugged the right 'un' module in and everything worked fine. The RE modules are 'cheap insurance'. You never know when something may fail in the K2 and you will want to remove all the options in order to trouble shoot the problems. Oh, the SSB module is NOT difficult to install, just build it and plug it in, turn it on and align the filters. 73 de N5bz From: "Phil Zminda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] Installing KSB2 To: Message-ID: My bare-bones K2 is almost completely assembled and ready for final testing. I will probably build a KSB2 within the next few months. I don't expect to add too many other options other than the KNB2, which I already have and possibly the K160RX. How much work is to install the KSB2? Since everything is still apart, is it worth getting any of the Un-module/Rework eliminators or parts kits to save time later on? I can see where installing some headers or caps now would be convenient, but don't want to over-complicate my final testing and alignment process. I am a former electronic tech and not bothered by unsoldering components. Any suggestions are appreciated. This list has been a great resource during my build process, which has gone very well. Thanks to all. Phil Zminda N3ZP -- -bz-"it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it?" [every day] [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chemistry.lsu.edu/bz 225-578-5381 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Installing KSB2 and Rework eliminator
I did RE from the start. It was more than $17 since I was buying the header boards plus the parts to put in the K2 but it was worth it to me. I've put in the AF, DSP, SSB and 100 options in the K2. I've also removed & sold the AF & DSP options. RE's allowed me to plug / unplug those things at will with no effort. Without them, I'd probably still have an unused $80 AF in the K2 to avoid rework. There no question the K2 can be built without them and it works just fine. RE's just make it that much smoother. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: Bob 'bz' Zinn I STRONGLY advise that you spend the 17 bux on the Rework Eliminator. I only regret that I didn't build mine first and have my K2 'upgrade ready' from the start. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
A pair of cross coupled NAND gates as a 'switch debouncer' should be useful? Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 2:54 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem. I may be proven wrong someday, but I believe that 'problem' is caused by contact bounce at the key (or bug). Cleaning the contacts may not be sufficient, and it will vary from keying device to keying device depending on the type and condition of the surfaces at the contact area. I cling to my contact bounce theory because it rarely occurs if the diodes are connected to a computer output. I have heard that a tiny drop of NoOxIt or similar product on the contacts helps, but I have not tried it myself. One idea (although it makes things more complicated) is to key a mercury wetted reed relay (if you can find one) with the bug and drive the diodes with the relay contacts. The mercury wetted contacts do not bounce (well, they could but it is greatly reduced). The other thing that works is to use an external keyer (I use the K1EL K12 keyer) which has a separate input wired for the hand key. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
My experience too, bz. It could be contact bounce, as Don suggested. I simply quit fighting with the logic and switched the MENU to "InP HAnd" to use my bug and straight key. I use DeOxit on my bug contacts, but it didn't help me with the auto-detect feature. Where the DeOxit comes in handy is in keeping the film of oxidation from forming on the brass contacts of my Speed-X key from preventing reliable contact that results in missed dits. I never had that problem back when my bug keyed a vacuum tube circuits with enough voltage and current to self-clean the contacts, but with modern logic circuits there's not enough current to keep removing the film. I found that letting a drop of DeOxit hang in the gap between the contacts for a minute or so, then wiping it out, keeps the contacts clean for six months at a time, at least. I expect that's not an issue with silver or silver plated contacts since silver oxide is an excellent conductor. Hmmm Is there a moral there about "...fighting with logic...?" One of the things I've always liked about the Elecraft gang on the reflector is how perfectly at ease many of them are with the idea of magic, as in finding their rigs effective Mojos, etc. Having been educated in the sciences, it took me decades to realize that the concept of magic actually plays a bigger role than logic in the lives of most humans, including my own. So, I say, switch the menu to InP HAnd and let the good times roll. If your key fails to make contact with every dit, try a little DeOxit. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 6:55 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem. I may be proven wrong someday, but I believe that 'problem' is caused by contact bounce at the key (or bug). Cleaning the contacts may not be sufficient, and it will vary from keying device to keying device depending on the type and condition of the surfaces at the contact area. I cling to my contact bounce theory because it rarely occurs if the diodes are connected to a computer output. I have heard that a tiny drop of NoOxIt or similar product on the contacts helps, but I have not tried it myself. One idea (although it makes things more complicated) is to key a mercury wetted reed relay (if you can find one) with the bug and drive the diodes with the relay contacts. The mercury wetted contacts do not bounce (well, they could but it is greatly reduced). The other thing that works is to use an external keyer (I use the K1EL K12 keyer) which has a separate input wired for the hand key. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > I hooked up an old bug to my keyer paddle. > > I used a couple of junkbox diodes and made sure that they matched as > far as forward voltage. [.542 and .541 on my radio shack meters diode > check mode.] I have also tried a 0.01 cap across the bug. > > Even in test mode (so it isn't RF in the shack that is causing the > problem) when I send a string of dots with the bug, the IAMBIC > mode(which I do NOT use with my paddle) kicks in and instead of a > string of dots, I get alternating dots and dashes. > > I HAVE cleaned the contacts on the bug > > It seems to happen more when the dot weight is correct(or light). If I > make the dots 'heavy', it doesn't seem to happen as often. > > USUALLY, the first few dots are ok, but occasionally it starts dashing > me early in the string. > > Suggestions? > -- > -bz-"it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it?" [every day] > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.4/615 - Release Date: 1/3/2007 1:34 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] something is bugging me, K2 keying problem.
The problem of the dashes following the dots sounds like the iambic mode B is set. This mode sends the opposite element if contact with the first element is held for a certain time. To send only the one element, the key/paddle must be released before that time threshold. Iambic A, sends alternating elements if the paddles are squeased with a fifo, lilo pattern. Jack Regan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DK9SQ Pole Modification
Don't worry about the carbon in the pole. It is bound up in a matrix of plastic such that it does not make a good conductor. You can check with an ohm meter two places say a foot apart; what does that read on your pole? (don't break the outer covering, just hold the probe side against the pole side). It is very unlikely any of the filaments make an RF wavelength fraction of significance at your bands of use. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Band pass filter
My ICE filters are model 419B which are on this site: http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html They are rated 200W, weigh 5 pounds and cost $288. They are meant for multi-station contesting and close-in dxpedition stations and I think are over the top for QRP weekenders. I cannot find the ones that Ken has but he tells me they are only ounces and very small. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Ken Kopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: Fw: [Elecraft] Band pass filter I have a set of ICE filters for 10M - 160M and have used them in many multi-op contest stations ... they're small, lightweight and work very well. I also have several of their front-end protector boxes. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Li-ion battery
Ken Kopp wrote: Aren't these the same type batteries that recently received considerable publicity due to fires/explosions in HP (and other) laptops? I don't know. I do know that there are several kinds of lithium-based batteries. My little fireball was an "Li-Poly", I think the "poly" stands for polymer. It was super light, very small (0.5" x 1" x 2" maybe), had a capacity of 850 mAh at 11.7V, a very flat discharge curve, and very low internal resistance (could deliver at over 5C) ... the flame thing was the only downside. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Preventing Li-Ion fires - a summary
Every half-decent laptop since 1997 has Li-Ion batteries, often an eight-cell pack of 18560 (185 x 60 mm) cylindrical cells. Every cell phone I have ever opened up has a single Li-Ion cell in it. Li-Ion fires are extraordinarily rare, considering the millions of Li-Ion packs in the field. When portable, I run my K1 and K2 off Li-Ion packs, but I DON'T put Li-Ion packs inside radios. Here's a picture of a couple of my homebrew Li-Ion packs. http://world.std.com/~rice/ham/projects/K1-GO-KIT/battery-packs.html There are only a few ways to torch a Lithium Ion battery: 1. Charging at too high a rate. Prevent this by using a manufacturer- recommended charger and a protective PCB (see below). 2. Continuing to charge a battery that is fully charged. 3. Discharging at too high a rate. 4. Using a battery that has grossly imbalanced charges across its constituent cells, resulting in a self-charge (from the charged cells to the undercharged cell) that exceeds that cell's charge rating. 5. Self-discharge at too high a rate owing to internal conduction paths (partial shorts) that result from damage (dings) or manufacturer's defects. Internal shorts are alleged to have caused the handful of laptop fires that resulted in over a million recalls in recent months. You can avoid #1, #2, #3, and #4 by using both: 1. A slow-blow fuse mounted CLOSE to the battery pack, and rated at less than half the manufacturer's maximum discharge rate. 2. A PCB that (1) limits charge rate (2) limits discharge rate and (3) balances the charge across each cell in the pack. You can avoid most of #5 (damage-induced internal shorts) by mounting your pack inside a sturdy, padded container with a rational connector scheme that prevents (1) shorted leads and (2) dings to a cell that cause problem #5, above. There's NOTHING you can do about manufacturer-induced internal shorts, but there have been only a handful of such cases in the last ten years. It's not entirely clear to me that there has been even a single case of this problem. Protective PCBs and battery packs with pre-installed PCBs are available in various pack configurations here: http://www.batteryspace.com/ Here's an example of a PCB for a 11.1 volt pack. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2779 Disclaimer: I have bought batteries and PCBs from batteryspace.com for several years, but otherwise I have no relationship with the company. In particular, I don't accept discounts from their review-for-discount program which is said to offer discounts even for negative reviews. Homebrewing Li-Ion packs is easy if you take the precautions set out above. You DO have to be careful when designing Li-Ion packs. Hope this is helpful. 73, Ken Rice K3VV Coopersburg, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Band pass filter
I've got a pair of the 419Bs and a bunch of the single-band (model #s 403-413 on the same page) modules for special purpose use. The single-band modules are very light and relatively small. YI9VFF Brian On 1/5/07, David Cutter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: My ICE filters are model 419B which are on this site: http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html They are rated 200W, weigh 5 pounds and cost $288. They are meant for multi-station contesting and close-in dxpedition stations and I think are over the top for QRP weekenders. I cannot find the ones that Ken has but he tells me they are only ounces and very small. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Ken Kopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: Fw: [Elecraft] Band pass filter >I have a set of ICE filters for 10M - 160M and have used them > in many multi-op contest stations ... they're small, lightweight and > work very well. I also have several of their front-end protector boxes. > > 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > or > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] Band pass filter
My filters are the Model's 403 -> 411. They have worked really well in my multi-op stations. I'm completely satisfied with them. See: http://www.iceradioproducts.com 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: David Cutter To: Ken Kopp ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Band pass filter My ICE filters are model 419B which are on this site: http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html They are rated 200W, weigh 5 pounds and cost $288. They are meant for multi-station contesting and close-in dxpedition stations and I think are over the top for QRP weekenders. I cannot find the ones that Ken has but he tells me they are only ounces and very small. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Ken Kopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: Fw: [Elecraft] Band pass filter I have a set of ICE filters for 10M - 160M and have used them in many multi-op contest stations ... they're small, lightweight and work very well. I also have several of their front-end protector boxes. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV50 help needed !?!?
Hi, I have the same problem with my XV50 that someone on 2005 wrote this post below. Look at his message... but nobody gave an answer Good someone help me with that one ??? This morning on our local 6 meter CW sked, I was barely able to hear guys that are usually very strong signals. Opening up the transverter, I discovered that I am unable to adjust the LNA Bias Adjustment(R13) for Q3 to the required 200 - 275 mV. It adjusts from a low of about 4 mV up to 55 mV. I've got 13.7 V at 12R, 3.74 V at the R12/R15 junction, and 0.650 V on the drain of Q3. Current coming down that leg is 55 mA based on voltage drops across R12 and R15. With 55mV (TP2) drop across R14, a current of through R14 of about 12 mA is indicated. I think this means that Q3 (or something else) is sinking about 43 mA (55 mA - 12 mA). (If my memory of Mr Kirkoff's laws are intact). My question is: Has Q3 has bit the dust? Thanks... 73, Ken Wagner K3IU === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 FISTS #11896 SKCC #2245 http://web.mac.com/jf.menard __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 1st question, just starting...
Hey folks...I just started building K2 #5945. Can't wait to get back to the bench :) As I was going through soldering the first few resistors and resistor packs, I looked at my solder job through a magnifying glass and noticed that it *looks* like pins 2 & 3 and 6 & 7 on RP1 (on the control board) are tied together. Is that true? Electrically they are now and as I pull more solder off it appears that it's meant to be that way, but looking at the schematic, I'm not seeing it that way. I know I'm missing something dumb, but I'm hoping someone will set me straight and I can move on :) Thanks for any ideas. Jeff ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 LCD Back?
I sure hope I didn't screw up... The instructions for the LCD display direct the builder to look for a transparent or yellowish protective strip on the back and remove it. On my display there was only a grey strip which was not at all yellowish or transparent. I went ahead and mounted the LCD with the grey strip in place. Is that OK? 73 jim ab3cv __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Back?
I think the time has come for a rewrite of the K2's construction manual. This question has come up many times and I think that it will continue to come up until there is a change in the manual. I won't attempt to answer it because there are many out there that can do a better job of it than me. John [K7SVV] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 1st question, just starting...
Jeff, My schematic shows one connection for pins 2 and 3, another for pins 6 and 7, and yet another for pins 4 and 5 (that is what the comma between the pin designations indicate). So yes those pins are normally tied together. The problem is usually created by a short through a solder bridge between pins 6,7 and 4,5 - that short usually occurs at the end of resistor RE near pins 4,5. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > As I was going through soldering the first few resistors and resistor > packs, I looked at my solder job through a magnifying glass and > noticed that it *looks* like pins 2 & 3 and 6 & 7 on RP1 (on the > control board) are tied together. Is that true? Electrically they are > now and as I pull more solder off it appears that it's meant to be > that way, but looking at the schematic, I'm not seeing it that way. > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 1st question, just starting...
Good luck on your K2 building experience. Solder, and soldering - are especially important for the success of a K2 build. I found that using Kester lead solder, .020 dia, and a nice hot solder station - is critical to clean well soldered joints. Elecraft's site - gives good solder types and sources. The lower rosen/resin .020 Kester solder, was my preferred choice. IMHO. best of luck, sounds like much fun! Fred, FL K2 54xx __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Back?
Folks, Yes, this does come up frequently, and I for one find the manual language quite clear. Please read carefully (with everything in the order stated). "But the back of some LCDs (not all) may have ... If the protective film is found on the back side ... then peel it away" What is difficult to understand about "some" followed by "If" and "then". In other words, your LCD may or may not have the film - If it does, peel it away, but if it does not, do not peel anything away. I fail to understand the confusion, the manual must be inclusive for all possibilities. The language in the manual is the most precise that I know about. Please help me to understand why so many seem to have trouble with it (suggested alternative wording would be most helpful). 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I think the time has come for a rewrite of the K2's construction manual. > This question has come up many times and I think that it will continue to > come up until there is a change in the manual. I won't attempt > to answer it > because there are many out there that can do a better job of it than me. > > John [K7SVV] > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K1 6-Band Operation
On Jan 3, 2007, at 1:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: To prevent having to switch out the 2-band module with the 4-band module to obtain 6-band coverage, has anyone modified the K1 with a switchable ribon cable arrangement which would allow witching from one board to another? Or is this even possible? Austin, This would require coax at several connector pins, not to mention a very complex band switch, and is in my opinion not very practical. That said, I wouldn't discourage a competent experimenter from trying it. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 1st question, just starting...
I agree, and you will find a good article on soldering at the Elecraft website too (look in Builder Resources) - Tom Hammond's (N0SS) work, complete with figures showing what good and poor solder joints look like. Or, check out my soldering article (with photos) on page 26 of QRP Quarterly, Fall 2006. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Good luck on your K2 building experience. Solder, > and soldering - are especially important for the > success of a K2 build. I found that using Kester lead > solder, .020 dia, and a nice hot solder > station - is critical to clean well soldered joints. > Elecraft's site - gives good solder types and > sources. The lower rosen/resin .020 Kester solder, > was my preferred choice. IMHO. > > best of luck, sounds like much fun! > Fred, FL > K2 54xx > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.5/616 - Release Date: 1/4/2007 1:34 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
