[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: BNC to Dual Binding Post Adapter
Hello all, Is there any interest in a group buy for BNC to Dual Binding Post Adapters? Best price found to date would be $6.00 USD including SH to you. I use one on my KX1 and Bead-Wire Antenna. http://www.wa3wsj.com/WA3WSJbead-wireAnt.html If you are interested, send me an email with call and quantity and I'll start a list. If we hit over 11, it's a go! 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem
David, Actually the 'where to start' question does not have a good answer from your description. The problem characteristics have to be better defined before plunging in and actually doing anything physical to the K2 (i.e. you don't want to 'fix' things that are not broken). Since you get a change in the howl pitch when touching R24 and R25, it would be wise to first verify the PLL/VCO signal. If you have a general coverage receiver, tune it around the 20 meter VFO frequency (about Dial frequency plus 4915 kHz - or 18915 when tuned to 14000) and observe what the VCO signal sounds like. If you cannot obtain a strong enough signal, by dropping an antenna wire to the GC rcvr into the K2, you stick a wire into TP1 to serve as a short antenna. Everyone has a differnt definition for 'howl' in their minds, so if you can be a bit more descriptive about the sound it may be helpful. Is it only receive, or is it present in the transmitted signal? How loud is it? Could it possibly be a noise originating outside the K2? Do you hear it with the antenna disconnected? Tell us what tools you have available there - frequency counter, 'oscilliscope, etc. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David C Dawson Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 2:26 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem Hi, My K2, recently completed, has developed a 'howl' on the 14MHz band. I had finished the rig and got it tweaked and performing very well, even making a contact with K6STA on 20 meters (He gave me 579) I then constructed the KIO2 and got it working with my logging program (tlf). The KIO2 began to malfunction, so I took it out and re-did the wiring on the aux board. I replaced it and it seemed to be fine except for a brief glitch. Then I noticed that there was a 'howl' all across the 14MHz band, but not on any other band. I removed the KIO2 and set up the rig. The howl was still there, exactly as before. What could have happened? I noticed that touching the leads of R24 or R25 modified the noise, but that's about what I know. The noise covers the whole band as far as I tuned. Anybody got a suggestion for how I should start troubleshooting? Thanks -- David Dawson People of privilege will always risk their complete destruction rather than surrender any material part of their advantage. -- John Kenneth Galbraith ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.9/622 - Release Date: 1/10/2007 2:52 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.9/622 - Release Date: 1/10/2007 2:52 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 160m alignment
Graham, The bandpass filter is usually sufficiently broad to cover most or all of 160 meters - so you have something abnormal. Check L5 - it should be 33 uH (orange-orange-black). Early K2s had an 820 ohm resistor across C14 to further broaden the 160 meter response, so you could try adding that to see if it helps. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Gents, I'm having difficulty getting decent power output across the whole of the 160m band, I can tune up the bandpass filter to get 15 watts at any point on the band but the level drops very quickly as I tune either side of the peaked frequency.As an example If I peak up at 1900Khz I have under 2 watts output at the band edges and a corresponding loss of receive sensitivity.The performance on 80m is up to spec. so I am guessing that this excludes a problem with L3 or L4. Yes I've checked the component values soldering to no avail so am looking to the list for inspiration. Thanks, Graham G4cpd -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.9/622 - Release Date: 1/10/2007 2:52 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV50 problem is worst ! Need help.
Hi, I verified all voltages in the troubleshooting section... both RX and TX. I have a few readings that are not as the manual. In RX, U7 (RF power module) PIN 1, I have 7.3 and should be to 0 !!! All other pins are OK. In TX, U5, the leg on the same side of C9 is 5V and the leg on the side of C65 drop to 2.7V (should be around 4.7 ???) All other measurements in the troubleshooting section are in the spec range. So, If I consider that my problem is in RX. Is these results could help ??? Le 07-01-11 à 20:45, Jean-François Ménard a écrit : Hi to all, Last week, my transverter XV50 was unable to receive properly... Only a small voice in the background... no S unit... the guy normally give me 10 or 20 over S9... After a new alignment procedure, I was unable to peak R13 to the desired level. I was unable to get more than 0.043 V. So my conclusion was that Q3 is dead. I received a new Q3 transistor. Now it is installed. I did another alignement. Now with Q3, I can peak R13 very easy to the target of 250mV. Note that before and now, my TX is still perfect. So no trouble with TX. But even after Q3 changed it is worst. I do not receive anything at all... not even a small voice in the background. If I listen to the background noise with or without antenna, it is the same. On the receiver input aligment, my noise generator did not make any difference ON or OFF. So I really don't know where to start now. I don't have very much experience in finding trouble. If someone could coach me where to start, I will really appreciate... :-(( Thanks for your times. === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ Elecraft K2 #4130 KX1 #999 FISTS #11896 SKCC #2245 Web: http://web.mac.com/jf.menard __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ Elecraft K2 #4130 KX1 #999 FISTS #11896 SKCC #2245 Web: http://web.mac.com/jf.menard __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Recycling K1 leftovers
After finishing my K1 a couple weeks ago there was one tiny thing bugging me. There is a small gap between the front panel board and the chassis fasteners so that when uppermost buttons are pushed, even gently, I could see the display slightly pushing backwards. Not liking how it took away from the otherwise solid feel of the rig, I looked for something to fill the gap without overdoing it. Luckily I had saved the leftover adhesive neoprene washer material for the speaker in the KBT1 kit. It's just a touch bigger than the gap, so I cut two small pieces and attached the adhesive side to the fasteners. Now there's no flexing of the front panel board when pushed. It looks better and is probably better structurally for the board as well. Nothing major, just a 'for what it's worth' comment. By the way, yesterday with an 80m long dipole I made a 100 mW qso on the K1 here in southeastern Pennsylvania to a Rockmite in Maine! 73, Mike ab3ap ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV50 problem is worst ! Need help.
Question: If I have 7.2Vdc on U7 pin 1 on RX... is it possible that a problem with relay K1 ??? Because on RX, relay K1 should be in another position as I can figure it out on the schematic !?!?!?!? Le 07-01-12 à 10:05, Jean-François Ménard a écrit : Hi, I verified all voltages in the troubleshooting section... both RX and TX. I have a few readings that are not as the manual. In RX, U7 (RF power module) PIN 1, I have 7.3 and should be to 0 !!! All other pins are OK. In TX, U5, the leg on the same side of C9 is 5V and the leg on the side of C65 drop to 2.7V (should be around 4.7 ???) All other measurements in the troubleshooting section are in the spec range. So, If I consider that my problem is in RX. Is these results could help ??? Le 07-01-11 à 20:45, Jean-François Ménard a écrit : Hi to all, Last week, my transverter XV50 was unable to receive properly... Only a small voice in the background... no S unit... the guy normally give me 10 or 20 over S9... After a new alignment procedure, I was unable to peak R13 to the desired level. I was unable to get more than 0.043 V. So my conclusion was that Q3 is dead. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recycling K1 leftovers
Mike, Nice going; I can't wait to get my K2 done and start doing the same. Matthew Pitts N8OHU K2 #5956 (Currently unassembled) Mike Markowski wrote: After finishing my K1 a couple weeks ago there was one tiny thing bugging me. There is a small gap between the front panel board and the chassis fasteners so that when uppermost buttons are pushed, even gently, I could see the display slightly pushing backwards. Not liking how it took away from the otherwise solid feel of the rig, I looked for something to fill the gap without overdoing it. Luckily I had saved the leftover adhesive neoprene washer material for the speaker in the KBT1 kit. It's just a touch bigger than the gap, so I cut two small pieces and attached the adhesive side to the fasteners. Now there's no flexing of the front panel board when pushed. It looks better and is probably better structurally for the board as well. Nothing major, just a 'for what it's worth' comment. By the way, yesterday with an 80m long dipole I made a 100 mW qso on the K1 here in southeastern Pennsylvania to a Rockmite in Maine! 73, Mike ab3ap ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
Have recently put together K2/100 #5884. I hope this is not too presumptive of me, but I have a few suggestions. These are things I would do in the future, that I did NOT do this time: 1) I would buy at least 4 different colors of 'nail polish' to use in color coding those little brown monolytic capacitors (and others) that 'look alike'. I would sort the 102, 103 and any other groups of capacitors that 'look alike', using a magnifying glass. As I was separating them, I would put a distinguishing dot of nail polish on top of the capacitor so that I could tell, even after the capacitor is installed, even if the sides can no longer be seen because of other parts being in the way, I would KNOW which value was which. 2) I would buy colored pencils in the same colors and mark the colors on the layout drawings in the manual! I would mark the inventory sections with the appropriate colors also. 3) I would place dots of colored nail polish, on the circuit board, in the appropriate places. [Elecraft could make things easier for us by EITHER supplying the nail polish and pencils or having the colors printed on the board, in the manual, and putting the colors on the capacitors BEFORE they are mixed together as the kits are prepared for shipment. (hint to Elecraft, the colors on the caps would make quality control easier, thus save time, thus you would make back the money spent putting the colors on the caps).] 4) I would use a small piece of perf board and mount it in a handy vice. and use it to 'guage' the lead length to 'pre cut' the leads on most parts 'to length'. I would also use it to make sure the leads were pre-formed to the proper width. (perhaps Elecraft could include a scrap of board with each kit that has all the normal hole spacings.) 4a) I would catch and collect each lead as cut, so that I would NOT have to crawl around later and dig them out of the carpet. Finding hundreds of small pieces of wire is very difficult. (Hint: stepping on a lead can lead to some very unpleasant moments). I am NOT sure I will EVER find them all! 5) I would place and solder one part at a time. The confusing of a forest of leads can cause one to miss soldering some. 6) I would use a thick glove or a finger cot (available at an office supply store, used by those who turn a lot of pages) on one hand to allow me to use a finger to hold the part in place, while soldering, without burning my finger. 7) I would triple check to make sure everything was correct before installing each part. It is MUCH easier to get it right-the first time- than to find a mistake and correct it later. 8) I would take a 10 minute break after each 50 minutes of work and NOT work late into the night. 9) I would buy the Rework Eliminator and build the 'un-' boards FIRST. I would install them as I went along, rather than after everything was completed. 10) I would have the Radio Shack 'desoldering iron' with red rubber bulb handy and ready. I didn't buy one until after I had built my K2. 11) I would have PLENTY of light. An illuminated magnifier desk lamp would be a very good idea. Finally, some things I DID do this time that I highly recommend: a) I used 63/37 or another composition _eutectic_solder_. It melts at a lower temperature and 'freezes' fast, without a 'plastic state'. This prevents 'cold' solder joints. Use a thin gage of solder. b) I wind a coil of about 100 or 200 grams of solder (a nickel weighs 5 grams, so half a roll or a roll of nickels in weight) around a Phillips screw driver shaft, rolling it neatly and carefully with many layers of solder. I work this roll OFF the shaft and feed solder from the center. I put the roll in a dental floss container, or in the barrel of an old ball point pen (the fat, 4 color bic works nicely, remove the ink cartridges, of course). I feed the solder out of the writing end of the pen. I can hold the pen in my mouth and guide the solder to the target while using my hands to hold the board, part and the soldering iron. c) A couple of pairs of hemostats are, of course, necessary for putting tension on the leads of the toroids. With the handle of my diagonal cutters for a fulcrum, the weight of the hemostats is just about right for giving the needed tension. I hope that at least one of these ideas helps someone. 73 de N5bz -- -bz-it is a beautiful day to be alive, isn't it? [every day] [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chemistry.lsu.edu/bz 225-578-5381 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
Some good ideas - If I did it again: - I would not PAINT any parts or PCB's - it would degrade you K2's value, on the market (IMHO) Just carefully, in cups or plastic tubs - place all the parts ahead of time. Easiest way to keep track of parts! Fred FL 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
Bob, et.al. On 1/12/07, Bob 'bz' Zinn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ... 1) I would buy at least 4 different colors of 'nail polish' to use in color coding those little brown monolytic capacitors (and others) that 'look alike'. I would sort the 102, 103 and any other groups of capacitors that 'look alike', using a magnifying glass. As I was separating them, I would put a distinguishing dot of nail polish on top of the capacitor so ... 2) I would buy colored pencils in the same colors and mark the colors on the layout drawings in the manual! I would mark the inventory sections ... 3) I would place dots of colored nail polish, on the circuit board, in the appropriate places. IMHO all this taken together could lead to more problems. Consider what might happen if the wrong color dot was used on the wrong value part and/or PCB location. Just separate the parts into small containers, I use those small bathroom Dixie cups, grab the part when called out, double check it's value. Then, __before__ soldering check one last time value and placement (It's at this point I check off the part in the manual). Few steps, lessor chance for error FWIW. 4) I would use a small piece of perf board and mount it in a handy vice. and use it to 'guage' the lead length to 'pre cut' the leads on most Bending the leads over the shank of a small screwdriver works pretty well and is a lot faster. I use a tool with a shank DIA of about 1/10 or so, maybe a little smaller. 7) I would triple check to make sure everything was correct before AGREED, always a good idea. Works with wood project too, measure 3 times, cut once... .. 73, Rod Ai7NN --single speeding and more to 60-- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
Rod Ai7NN wrote: ...Just separate the parts into small containers, I use those small bathroom Dixie cups, grab the part when called out, double check it's value... A friend of mine uses egg cartons to avoid more easily toppled cups or containers. Oh, he takes the eggs out first. :) Mike ab3ap ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
-Original Message- AGREED, always a good idea. Works with wood project too, measure 3 times, cut once... And there was the carpenter who, with a puzzled look stated: I cut it 3 times already and its still too short G 73, Don W3FPR -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.10/624 - Release Date: 1/12/2007 2:04 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV50 problem... I think I'm closer to the problem
If someone could just give the actual Vdc of BOTH side of C3 (located in RF section near U1) in RX state, it would be greatly appreciated !!! P.S. This problem is actually giving to me an excellent lesson to learn how the transverter work. a problem that does not make me mad at all... :-)) If it is an Elecraft, it could be repaired !!! Thanks for any help !! 73 === Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ Elecraft K2 #4130 KX1 #999 FISTS #11896 SKCC #2245 Web: http://web.mac.com/jf.menard __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recycling K1 leftovers
Mike wrote: After finishing my K1 a couple weeks ago there was one tiny thing bugging me. There is a small gap between the front panel board and the chassis fasteners so that when uppermost buttons are pushed, even gently, I could see the display slightly pushing backwards. Luckily I had saved the leftover adhesive neoprene washer material for the speaker in the KBT1 kit. It's just a touch bigger than the gap, so I cut two small pieces and attached the adhesive side to the fasteners. Now there's no flexing of the front panel board when pushed. It looks better and is probably better structurally for the board as well. Nothing major, just a 'for what it's worth' comment. This was a well-known issue back in 2000 with the first K1s, like my no. 175. At certain speaker volumes and audio frequencies, a rattle would be heard as the corners of the front panel board would vibrate at the corners. I'm sure there is a write-up on this on the Elecraft website somewhere. I fixed the problem with a small square of double-sided adhesive foam tape on the front-facing surface of *all four* of the chassis fasteners, leaving the film that covers the adhesive on the front side on the tape in place. I think you'd profit from putting space fill material on the lower fasteners too. As you mentioned, the great side benefit was the added firmness to the feel of the panel pushbuttons. I've not seen anyone complain of this in six years, so I had assumed Elecraft had added this material to the K1 to correct this aggravating problem. Guess I was wrong. If you've got a K1, this is well worth doing, even if you haven't had an audio rattle problem. Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
In a message dated 1/12/07 2:21:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A friend of mine uses egg cartons to avoid more easily toppled cups or containers. Oh, he takes the eggs out first. :) I wouldn't use foam cartons, though - static-makers. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] No speaker audio
I recently discovered that my external speaker fails to work after pulling out my headphones. I checked the resistance of the speaker and it reads 8 ohms, and the DC voltage across the plug (P5) is almost nothing. The DC voltage out of the audio amp U9 (Pin #6) reads 13 volts. R35/36 should be ok because the headphones work fine. I think J2 is the problem and could be called a TIF (toddler induced failure). My son was sitting on my lap listening to beeping and he tugged on the headphone cord. Could this have damaged the internal switch, keeping it stuck in headphone mode? Is there any way to fix this? 73, Kirk (KA2P) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
FB bz! Do yourself a favor and never clip a lead so it flies loose (into the carpet or anywhere else). Not only can they get poked into bare feet (or into animal's stomachs), sooner or later one will find your eye, even around the glasses in some cases (assuming you wear glasses). I clip leads single-handedly, but use my index finger to hold the loose end of the lead against the cutters while it's being clipped so it doesn't go anywhere. Then I put it in a little tray (jar lid, etc.) in case I need it later for a ground tie point or jumper. Dump the tray when it's full. I have found that if one simply bends the leads smoothly to right angles to the body of resistors, diodes and chokes, they fit right into the holes. No jig used or needed. When one doesn't fit by doing that, it's normally mentioned in the text that it needs to have the leads formed to fit. Be very careful of that Radio Shack desoldering tool! The ones I've seen are not temperature controlled or grounded! The temperature will easily and quickly debond any traces the iron is used on. If you use it on the little round pad on the not-trace side of a board, you'll probably find the round pad and perhaps the plated-through hole on the iron after desoldering a pad. There's a very good reason why the spring-loaded solder sucker is recommended! Of course, a properly grounded and temperature-controlled desoldering tool is also good, but their price and the ease of using a less-expensive tool makes them more of a luxury than a necessity. Very few parts need to be held while they are installed: headers for shorting blocks and i.c.s for example. Normally, just spreading the leads of caps, resistors, etc. where they exit the board holds the part just fine. The don't need to be spread tightly to parallel with the board either. Just angled a bit. If spread too much, they can be hard to remove if that ever becomes necessary. Not having to hold the part ensures that it will remain still while the solder cools avoiding cold joints caused by movement. When the part must be held, such as a relay or i.c., I always tack-solder one or two pins first, while holding the part. Then I double-check the orientation, etc. before soldering the rest of the pins without touching the part. When that's done, I go back and reflow the pins I tack-soldered to ensure they're soldered right. How do you use hemostats on toroids? For winding, snugging each turn against the core as I add it has always produced a clean, smooth wind for me. Remember, it is NOT necessary for no gap at all to show between the winding and the core. Pulling on the leads IS an easy way to break the wire G. I install them like any other leaded part, being careful not to pull the leads too tight through the solder pads. Plenty of light and good vision are important. I prefer binocular magnifiers that fit on my head. I don't have to bring the work to the magnifier that way. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2
An even better method to keep stuff from flying when cutting is to fill the gap in the wire cutters with Silicone rubber, and let cure. Then take a razor blade and slice through the middle to allow the cutters to work again. When you cut wires, they are retained. Mike AI4NS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem
Notes to all concerned: Following on from before, I probed the 'howl' down to 4.34 MHz, below which it was not audible, and found the signal strongest near K15. This signal is less strong than the signal at 18.915 MHz -- David Dawson People of privilege will always risk their complete destruction rather than surrender any material part of their advantage. -- John Kenneth Galbraith ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Resistors out of order?
Tonight I finished part one of K2 #5945's RF board, having finished the control and front boards earlier today. Wow, these are a lot of fun to build! While doing phase 1 of the RF board, I noticed that I had an extra 2.7k resistor that was either out of order, or an extra. As far as I can tell, I didn't miss anything, and it was in the resistor tape-pack that is for the RF board. I really like that Elecraft puts the resistors in order in the tape, this is the first one I've come across that's extra/out of order. Does this happen often? Anyhow, I fired it up for phase 1 testing, and all tests well, everything works happily. Can't wait to get this sucker on the air. Thanks, -Jeff KA6LAF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem
Hi, On Fri, Jan 12, 2007 at 11:50:22PM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: David, It does rather confirm that the VCO signal is giving you the problem. Make a continuity check of RFC15 on the bottom of the RF Board - You may find it open. If it is open, place a short around it and see if the VCO signal improves, if it does, put a new RF Choke in place of RFC15. RFC15 shows about 8 or 9 ohms, I'm assuming that means it is OK. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: David C Dawson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 11:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem Thanks Don, On Fri, Jan 12, 2007 at 07:47:11AM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: David, Actually the 'where to start' question does not have a good answer from your description. The problem characteristics have to be better defined before plunging in and actually doing anything physical to the K2 (i.e. you don't want to 'fix' things that are not broken). Since you get a change in the howl pitch when touching R24 and R25, it would be wise to first verify the PLL/VCO signal. If you have a general coverage receiver, tune it around the 20 meter VFO frequency (about Dial frequency plus 4915 kHz - or 18915 when tuned to 14000) and observe what the VCO signal sounds like. If you cannot obtain a strong enough signal, by dropping an antenna wire to the GC rcvr into the K2, you stick a wire into TP1 to serve as a short antenna. Everyone has a differnt definition for 'howl' in their minds, so if you can be a bit more descriptive about the sound it may be helpful. Is it only receive, or is it present in the transmitted signal? How loud is it? Could it possibly be a noise originating outside the K2? Do you hear it with the antenna disconnected? Tell us what tools you have available there - frequency counter, 'oscilliscope, etc. The summary is this: I have a AOR 1500 scanner which receives from 500kHz to 1.3GHz and will receive FM and AM and has a BFO. With a duckie attached to the scanner I was able to listen to 18915 with the K2 tuned to 14000 kHz. I found the signal strong all over the front-left quadrant of the RF board. The signal is, I believe, a square wave with some modulation. The VCO signal sounded much like what the receiver hears. I believe it is the same signal, in fact. It is a lound signal, possibly over half as loud as the K2 can put out through the speaker I think it could not be transmitted as the rig has no SSB board, but I heard nothing when I tried anyway. I have only a digital multimeter and an RF voltage probe and the scanner. Possibly I could borrow some equipment if necessary. The signal is audible with or without the antenna connected. It _definitely_ is not a signal originating outside the K2. In fact I sat the K2 on top of my Icom 730 and tuned to the same frequency as on the K2 and the Icom could not hear it (and the Icom is working pretty well at present, although showing its age a tiny bit). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David C Dawson Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 2:26 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #05386 has developed a problem Hi, My K2, recently completed, has developed a 'howl' on the 14MHz band. I had finished the rig and got it tweaked and performing very well, even making a contact with K6STA on 20 meters (He gave me 579) I then constructed the KIO2 and got it working with my logging program (tlf). The KIO2 began to malfunction, so I took it out and re-did the wiring on the aux board. I replaced it and it seemed to be fine except for a brief glitch. Then I noticed that there was a 'howl' all across the 14MHz band, but not on any other band. I removed the KIO2 and set up the rig. The howl was still there, exactly as before. What could have happened? I noticed that touching the leads of R24 or R25 modified the noise, but that's about what I know. The noise covers the whole band as far as I tuned. Anybody got a suggestion for how I should start troubleshooting? Thanks -- David Dawson People of privilege will always risk their complete destruction rather than surrender any material part of their advantage. -- John Kenneth Galbraith ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K2 - NOW SOLD
Thanks for all the interest in my K2. It sold at the asking price to a local club member on this list. 73, Byron ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft]Bending component wires
I advise against bending the wires of axial components against the component body; this can lead to stress fractures at the joint depending how much force you use. I use fine needle nose pliers to hold the component wire near the body, then bend the wire sharp against the pliers. It's a small but easy and consistent way to avoid a stress failure which might take a while to appear. Having said this, modern components *may* not be susceptible to this failure mode: I'm just in the habit these 50 years. I remember a colleague clipping wires near me and one flew into a power supply I was working on causing a large flash and bang right under my nose. A salutary lesson to all. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:36 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Things I would do differently when I next build a K2 FB bz! I have found that if one simply bends the leads smoothly to right angles to the body of resistors, diodes and chokes, they fit right into the holes. No jig used or needed. When one doesn't fit by doing that, it's normally mentioned in the text that it needs to have the leads formed to fit. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
