Re: [Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils
Don, W3FPR wrote: Remember that Heil has a wide variety of mics, just saying that you are using a Heil mic is not sufficient information, one must specify WHICH Heil mics - they are not created equal. - Absolutely, and it would appear that mics using the HC4 and HC5 elements are not created equal either. I use a Heil Proset Plus headset with boom mic which uses the HC4 and HC5, and have no difficulty in obtaining full rated output on all bands from an unmodified K2/100 #3255 without using a preamplifier. A preamp would be required if the mic were to be at a greater distance from my mouth e.g. a desk mic. BTW 'Headquarters' reports that I have a quiet voice. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Born Yesterday
On Wednesday 07 February 2007 10:15, Sandy W5TVW wrote: > You will find the receiver supurb during heavy QRM situations like contests! ? with the first mixer being an NE or SA 602 or 612? The K1 is not a K2 lite: domestic kittens, no matter how much fun they are, don't grow up to be tigers. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils
The Heil microphone preamps are required for the Heil microphones using the HC4 and HC5 elements. The electret elements do not need a preamp (but they do need a resistor at the mic jack). The Heil mics designated for use with Icom transceivers are usually of the electret typw and work quite well with the K2. Remember that Heil has a wide variety of mics, just saying that you are using a Heil mic is not sufficient information, one must specify WHICH Heil mics - they are not created equal. I guess an anology is that you would not refer to an automobile as a General Motors car - you must specify if it is a Chevrolet, a Buick, a Cadillac, etc., and in many cases one must also specify which variety of Chevrolet, Buick, etc. Heil mics are much like that. So, yes choose the Icom mics if possible, but if you prefer those with the HC4 or HC5 elements (those elemetns have low ouput), you should plan to add a mic preamp. As far as I know, no PC boards or kits are available for the mic preamps. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi, sorry if this repeats previous information request, but I did > a lot of > searching and didn't find anything directly on point (even though > there were > several threads on preamps and Heils, etc.) > > > I downloaded the Microphone Pre-Amp for Heil schematic on the Elecraft > website. > > My questions are: > 1. Does anybody make a PCB for this project? I imagine all > these parts are > available from Radio Shack or Mouser? > > 2. Does the preamp make the microphones work really well, or is it just > something that "gets you by?" > > 3. As far as Heil microphone modules go, if I build the preamp, > and want to > buy the Classic, can I use any module, like the Pro, HC-5, HC-4, > etc., or > should I get the ICOM only module, which I believe is an > electret module. I am > a bit confused about all this. I asked Elecraft and they said I > should get > the electret module. Bob Heil said the Classic was not a good > choice for the > K2 and he suggested his iCM mic for ICOM. Doesn't the iCM mic > have the same > electret element that the Classic with the IC element has? If > all I needed > was an electret element, do I need the preamp at all, or does it > make the > electret work even better? > > 4. Once I build the preamp, is it something that I can tuck into the > microphone itself (like a Heil Classic) or does it go inside the > K2 or do I need to > put it into it's own little enclosure. > > Thanks for your help. I am a new ham, and am trying to sort through all > this stuff. > Christ Kacoyannakis > K4CMK > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] No power out on K1
Cathy, Definitions first - RF IN and RF OUT are designation of the RF Bandpass filter only - on transmmit the signal goes in as RF IN and comes out as RF OUT - however, on receive the path through the RF Bandpass is reversed, so 'in' is 'out' and and 'out' is 'in' . Since you have a scope, I suggest you use it for peaking the Premix Bandpass filters and the RF Bandpass filters on transmit. Just read the RF Voltage - no exotic 'scope functions here - start with all the trimmers set near mid-position - put the probe on Filter Board P1 pin 6 while adjusting the Premix filters and simply adjust for maximum RF voltage on the 'scope. If you have the 4 band board, follow the band adjustment order - 30 meters before 40 and 15 (17) meters before 20 meters. If you have adjusted the trimmers for a peak on receive, you should not have to move the setting very far. Once you have the Premix Bandpass filters set, then do the RF Bandpass in the same manner - put the 'scope probe on P2 pin 8 and adjust for maximum RF voltage. After adjusting the filters for maximum RF voltage, you can try other things, trusting that the filter board is adjusted properly. Actually there is little more to be adjusted that will change the power output. You may need a bit of 'finger training' to enter TUNE without changing the power output level. Once in TUNE, you can tap one button to raise the power and the other to lower it. I cannot say where the extra voltage at J1 pin 1 is originating at the moment - it may be coming from the output of U9 - check U9 pin 6 to see how the voltage there compares with the voltage at J7 pin 1. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > ... > Sadly, the transmitter has not been so kind. Any attempt to put the > unit in transmit mode (by pushing WPM+ and WPM- together) resets the > power out to 0.1 watts, which is confirmed by the external wattmeter. > > All of the resistance checks on p45 have passed with the KFL1-4 removed > and the jumper set to K1 (not KAT1). With the KFL1-4 in place and > 14.38V at the input jack, a few of the voltage test points on p46 > indicate 0.1-0.2V above the quoted range, which is presumably a result > of the input voltage being a little higher than recommended. (I can > stick a diode in the power cord if this is a real problem.) > > However, J7 pin 1 shows 7.8V instead of the quoted range of 5.1-6.7V. > What, if anything, does this indicate? R9, D14, and D5 are all > connected as measured by the ohm-meter. > > I've looked at the schematic, and I don't understand the RF-out path > well enough to see what the obvious culprits might be. I have the RF > probe that I built with the K2 plus a Tek scope. Any suggestions before > I dive into the transmitter signal tracing on page 6 of Appendix E? > > A few pointers would be helpful before I disappear into the deep water! > > Cathy > N5WVR > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils
I recently bought a Heil 'Handi-MIc' with the Icom element (designated HM-IC). It works fine without a preamp, but does need the resistor to bias the electret element. Rather than removing the front panel and wiring the jumper, I just opened up the connector shell on the mic and soldered the resistor between the appropriate pins on the connector. (I'm away from home at the moment and don't have the diagram to tell you which pins, but it's pretty easy to figure out.) The microphone seems to work very well. I assume this would work with other Heil mics with the Icom element. Bernie W1AZ At 09:51 PM 2/14/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, sorry if this repeats previous information request, but I did a lot of searching and didn't find anything directly on point (even though there were several threads on preamps and Heils, etc.) I downloaded the Microphone Pre-Amp for Heil schematic on the Elecraft website. My questions are: 1. Does anybody make a PCB for this project? I imagine all these parts are available from Radio Shack or Mouser? 2. Does the preamp make the microphones work really well, or is it just something that "gets you by?" 3. As far as Heil microphone modules go, if I build the preamp, and want to buy the Classic, can I use any module, like the Pro, HC-5, HC-4, etc., or should I get the ICOM only module, which I believe is an electret module. I am a bit confused about all this. I asked Elecraft and they said I should get the electret module. Bob Heil said the Classic was not a good choice for the K2 and he suggested his iCM mic for ICOM. Doesn't the iCM mic have the same electret element that the Classic with the IC element has? If all I needed was an electret element, do I need the preamp at all, or does it make the electret work even better? 4. Once I build the preamp, is it something that I can tuck into the microphone itself (like a Heil Classic) or does it go inside the K2 or do I need to put it into it's own little enclosure. Thanks for your help. I am a new ham, and am trying to sort through all this stuff. Christ Kacoyannakis K4CMK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #6014 almost first pwr test
Finished the Front Panel, Control Panel, and first part of RF Board ready for the tests. Assembled and find I used the short spacers on the Front Panel so gotta correct that. Resistance checks show no shorts. Bought a 10X loupe and checked all solder joints for bad ones and touched up any I found. (two) Will fix spacers and apply power for the first time to do initial tests tomorrow nite when I'm fresh. It sure looks purty sittin' on the desk though. Also built a portable ant for it that is simular to the buddiwhip. nite all. and hopin for no smoke. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] No power out on K1
Cathy wrote: >I've nearly completed my K1, and the receiver has been calibrated and >works extremely well > >Sadly, the transmitter has not been so kind. Any attempt to put the >unit in transmit mode (by pushing WPM+ and WPM- together) resets the >power out to 0.1 watts, which is confirmed by the external wattmeter. Cathy, By "resets the power out to 0.1 watts" do you mean that when you perform the steps on page 19 of the KFL1-4 manual to "Put the K1 into TUNE mode. Adjust C5, C6, CE ..." that you see P0.1 in the LCD? If so, then probably everything is OK and normal, at this point in tuning the KFL1-4. In TUNE mode, the LCD displays actual power output, and *not* the 2.0 value that you *set* as the power output limit on page 46 of the K1 manual. Until you make further critical adjustments to the filter board capacitors, you may indeed have very little actual power output, so P0.1 indicated after going into TUNE mode would be very likely. Verify that the power output limit is set to 2.0 per page 46 (K1 manual), then perform the step on page 19 (KFL1-4 manual) to put the K1 into TUNE mode. Then adjust those caps that were specified a little. You will likely find very sharp increases in actual power output indication (both on the LCD and your external wattmeter) as you find the best peak settings for the caps. Even if you had these caps seemingly well-peaked for receive mode, that only gets you just barely into the ballpark. Their actual required settings are very very much more critical for transmit mode. Be off just a little, and you'll still receive well, but transmit almost nothing. 73, Mike / KK5F K1 #175 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Linear Power Supply?
Radio Shack used to sell a small 1A linear supply in a metal chassis. Wall mount supplies are linear if they're heavy, but usually not regulated. 12VDC at 1A is a pretty common size. Dave AA4EE K2 #5929 Jeff wrote: Hi gang, Where can I buy a good quality LINEAR power supply that will provide at least 500mA (that's all I need) at 12-14VDC? I don't want a switching power supply, due to fear that it would produce HF crud. Thanks very much & 73, Jeff NE2J (formerly WB5GWB) Long Island, NY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils
Hi, sorry if this repeats previous information request, but I did a lot of searching and didn't find anything directly on point (even though there were several threads on preamps and Heils, etc.) I downloaded the Microphone Pre-Amp for Heil schematic on the Elecraft website. My questions are: 1. Does anybody make a PCB for this project? I imagine all these parts are available from Radio Shack or Mouser? 2. Does the preamp make the microphones work really well, or is it just something that "gets you by?" 3. As far as Heil microphone modules go, if I build the preamp, and want to buy the Classic, can I use any module, like the Pro, HC-5, HC-4, etc., or should I get the ICOM only module, which I believe is an electret module. I am a bit confused about all this. I asked Elecraft and they said I should get the electret module. Bob Heil said the Classic was not a good choice for the K2 and he suggested his iCM mic for ICOM. Doesn't the iCM mic have the same electret element that the Classic with the IC element has? If all I needed was an electret element, do I need the preamp at all, or does it make the electret work even better? 4. Once I build the preamp, is it something that I can tuck into the microphone itself (like a Heil Classic) or does it go inside the K2 or do I need to put it into it's own little enclosure. Thanks for your help. I am a new ham, and am trying to sort through all this stuff. Christ Kacoyannakis K4CMK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] flat side trimmer cap c9?
Tom, You have one of the new boards where the silkscreening did not adhere over the tinned solder pads. Rathr than trying to describe how to mount the capacitor in words, look at the parts placement diagram in the back of the manual for a picture. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > good eve, not perfectly clear on which is the "Flat side" of c9, > on the board for auto tuner for my K1. The outline on the board > is completely rounded, not much help. Both sides of c9 are flat, > one side has more surface area then the ofher side. Which is the > flat side? > > Tom km4cu > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] No power out on K1
I've nearly completed my K1, and the receiver has been calibrated and works extremely well. While calibrating the receiver against my K2, I had a 3 foot antenna consisting of daisy-chained alligator clips attached to the antenna jack, and I was picking up not only the adjacent K2, but also RTTY signals on the band! Sadly, the transmitter has not been so kind. Any attempt to put the unit in transmit mode (by pushing WPM+ and WPM- together) resets the power out to 0.1 watts, which is confirmed by the external wattmeter. All of the resistance checks on p45 have passed with the KFL1-4 removed and the jumper set to K1 (not KAT1). With the KFL1-4 in place and 14.38V at the input jack, a few of the voltage test points on p46 indicate 0.1-0.2V above the quoted range, which is presumably a result of the input voltage being a little higher than recommended. (I can stick a diode in the power cord if this is a real problem.) However, J7 pin 1 shows 7.8V instead of the quoted range of 5.1-6.7V. What, if anything, does this indicate? R9, D14, and D5 are all connected as measured by the ohm-meter. I've looked at the schematic, and I don't understand the RF-out path well enough to see what the obvious culprits might be. I have the RF probe that I built with the K2 plus a Tek scope. Any suggestions before I dive into the transmitter signal tracing on page 6 of Appendix E? A few pointers would be helpful before I disappear into the deep water! Cathy N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] flat side trimmer cap c9?
good eve, not perfectly clear on which is the "Flat side" of c9, on the board for auto tuner for my K1. The outline on the board is completely rounded, not much help. Both sides of c9 are flat, one side has more surface area then the ofher side. Which is the flat side? Tom km4cu ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Linear Power Supply?
Hi gang, Where can I buy a good quality LINEAR power supply that will provide at least 500mA (that's all I need) at 12-14VDC? I don't want a switching power supply, due to fear that it would produce HF crud. Thanks very much & 73, Jeff NE2J (formerly WB5GWB) Long Island, NY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart
In a message dated 2/14/07 3:24:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > especially watch for Don's posts. They are ALWAYS useful and I have > learned > a great deal from them. Me too! 73 es mni tnx Don de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] W3FPR- Super Don
This is the kind of attitude that expresses the very best of the spirit of ham radio. Building and then operating a K2 is a truly rewarding activity. Being a member of a world-wide community that provides a endless supply of support, encourage and recognition provides the lesser experienced and out-right beginners with the confidence to dive into the deep end without fear. And last but not least, my personal thanks to Don for his many thoughtful, detailed and articulate replies to my requests for help. 73, Doug -- K0DXV Don Wilhelm wrote: Thanks to all you folks for the recognition, it means a lot. It is a joy working with you here on the Elecraft reflector. Believe it or not, I really enjoy solving puzzles, and that is what I think troubleshooting is all about - it is a puzzle to be solved. I have had the good fortune to obtain a solid grounding in electrical principles when I was just a teenager - thanks to the good help I received from more experienced hams in my local ham radio club - these guys all built their own transmitters, so I did the same, but only with their help and guidance. These were not kits, but you went out and found the parts, then built from scratch, wound your own coils too, no toroids in those days! (Toroids are easier) I had my share of problems and mistakes, but I had good help ready at hand. My help to those on the reflector is part payment for the efforts of those Elmers I had back then. Most are no longer around so I cannot thank them personally, but they were instrumental to me in launching a professional career as well as a life-long hobby, and I in turn pass on help to others. Life is good, let's keep it that way. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- This is a thread I can comment on. Over the time span since I discovered Elecraft and started building their kits. Don has always been there to help me over come MY GOOFS. He has allowed me to gain confidence and ability. Thank You Don W3FPR ( Friendly, Patient, Radioman) 72 de RC kc5wa -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart
I don't post on the list often but I do check it several times daily and especially watch for Don's posts. They are ALWAYS useful and I have learned a great deal from them. It is wonderful to have his experience in trouble shooting and general electronic knowledge. My thanks to him. Todd, WA7U K2 #726 with options too numerous to mention ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] W3FPR- Super Don
Thanks to all you folks for the recognition, it means a lot. It is a joy working with you here on the Elecraft reflector. Believe it or not, I really enjoy solving puzzles, and that is what I think troubleshooting is all about - it is a puzzle to be solved. I have had the good fortune to obtain a solid grounding in electrical principles when I was just a teenager - thanks to the good help I received from more experienced hams in my local ham radio club - these guys all built their own transmitters, so I did the same, but only with their help and guidance. These were not kits, but you went out and found the parts, then built from scratch, wound your own coils too, no toroids in those days! (Toroids are easier) I had my share of problems and mistakes, but I had good help ready at hand. My help to those on the reflector is part payment for the efforts of those Elmers I had back then. Most are no longer around so I cannot thank them personally, but they were instrumental to me in launching a professional career as well as a life-long hobby, and I in turn pass on help to others. Life is good, let's keep it that way. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > > This is a thread I can comment on. Over the time span since I discovered > Elecraft and started building their kits. Don has always been there to > help me over come MY GOOFS. He has allowed me to gain confidence and > ability. Thank You Don W3FPR ( Friendly, Patient, Radioman) > 72 de RC kc5wa > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/686 - Release Date: 2/14/2007 7:54 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart
AMEN !!! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Kretzer Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:50 AM To: Elecraft Mail Posting Subject: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] W3FPR- Super Don
This is a thread I can comment on. Over the time span since I discovered Elecraft and started building their kits. Don has always been there to help me over come MY GOOFS. He has allowed me to gain confidence and ability. Thank You Don W3FPR ( Friendly, Patient, Radioman) 72 de RC kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hear, Hear! An Expert with Heart
From another who's benefited from Don's help ... Thank you! 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP - K2 #5665 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Surely, the phonetics for Don Wilhelm's call letters, W3FPR, must be "Friendly, Patient Radioman." After following Don's helpful responses daily here on the Forum the last two years, I'm in awe of not only his obvious technical skills, but his superhuman patience as well. Don does this voluntarily, can be counted on to answer every post from newbies and others with precise answers, and he does it with the spirit of an "old school" ham radioman. He's the ultimate Elmer. Such patient explanations and detailed troubleshooting guidelines from Don and other gentlemen of his caliber are quite significant to the successful growth of the fine Elecraft line. I feel it appropriate on Valentine's Day to say to Don, "You've got a big heart, brother!" My best regards and respect, Dale - K6PJV, Sacramento ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart
Yes! Don's been super helpful and patient with my build as well. Don, you're the best, big kudos, and thanks! Jeff On 2/14/07, Dale Kretzer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Surely, the phonetics for Don Wilhelm's call letters, W3FPR, must be "Friendly, Patient Radioman." After following Don's helpful responses daily here on the Forum the last two years, I'm in awe of not only his obvious technical skills, but his superhuman patience as well. Don does this voluntarily, can be counted on to answer every post from newbies and others with precise answers, and he does it with the spirit of an "old school" ham radioman. He's the ultimate Elmer. Such patient explanations and detailed troubleshooting guidelines from Don and other gentlemen of his caliber are quite significant to the successful growth of the fine Elecraft line. I feel it appropriate on Valentine's Day to say to Don, "You've got a big heart, brother!" My best regards and respect, Dale - K6PJV Sacramento, CA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel Board K2 06014 wheres RP3 10K 8 pin
And this will only get more confusing before it gets better. There are actually two references of RP3 on page 3 of the Parts list. The first is line 1, as you have found. The second one is on line 18 (or line 4 under the heading "Components on Front Panel Board"). There is where you'll find your 10K, 8 pin resistor pack listed. Of course, this is all moot if you don't actually have an 8 pin resistor pack in your kit! For that you should contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] and ask for part #E510005. Brian, W6FVI Elecraft Support [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, confused here. On page 28 of the Owners Manual it says to check off the items NOT installed. If I have the SSB kit, which I do, it says to install them now. RP3 has some issues.. it says its a 10k resistor network and is supplied in the SSB kit. The board shows it as an 8 pin inline part. The SSB parts had all the parts BUT describes RP3 as a 2K 6 pin resistor network AND there is NO 10K inline pin resistor chip in the SSB bag to put in the front panel board. What goes in the RP3 slot on the Front panel board. In the SSB manual it describes RP3 as a 10K 8 pin but on page 3 RP3 is a 2.0K 6 pin ??? confused.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] An Expert with Heart
Surely, the phonetics for Don Wilhelm's call letters, W3FPR, must be "Friendly, Patient Radioman." After following Don's helpful responses daily here on the Forum the last two years, I'm in awe of not only his obvious technical skills, but his superhuman patience as well. Don does this voluntarily, can be counted on to answer every post from newbies and others with precise answers, and he does it with the spirit of an "old school" ham radioman. He's the ultimate Elmer. Such patient explanations and detailed troubleshooting guidelines from Don and other gentlemen of his caliber are quite significant to the successful growth of the fine Elecraft line. I feel it appropriate on Valentine's Day to say to Don, "You've got a big heart, brother!" My best regards and respect, Dale - K6PJV Sacramento, CA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working - Wrong!
Don - Once again I want to thank you for your help in repairing my Elecraft. I followed your instructions and quickly discovered that pin 8 on the DB9 of the KIO2 was not soldered. Pressure alone had held it in place and it sure looked solid, but with magnification I saw it was not the same as the others. A little solder on the pin and I am back in business. Don, you are a genius. 73 de K1ESE John Don Wilhelm wrote: John, Forget the check on the MAX1406 - that is not involved in the path you are attempting to reconcile. The MAX1406 only does the CMOS level to RS-232 conversion for the computer interface out of the KPA100. You problem is in one of the non-RS-232 signal lines. If you want to check the paths the quickest way, try this: First connect the cable between the KPA100 and the KIO2. Do not connect the KIO2 cable to the K2 control board (you are going to be doing continuity checks through the entire path). Remove the ribbon cable from the KPA100 board so you can easily get to the KPA100 points. Make continuity checks on the full path for the following signals - you should find less than 5 ohms on each signal path: 8R --- KIO2 AUX board pin 9 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 9 12CTRL --KIO2 AUX board pin 8 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 8 VRFDET --KIO2 AUX board pin 10 - to KPA100 P1 pin 10 ALC KIO2 AUX board pin 7 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 7 AUXBUS - KIO2 AUX board pin 2 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 2 Ground - KIO2 AUX board pin 6 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 6 RS-232 signal Ground - KIO2 AUX board pin 5 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 5. If all those paths show conductivity from end to end, the connections should work unless something is shorted to an adjacent pin. When you make these checks, you are testing the cable, the KPA100 connections and the KIO2 connections all at once - if any of them fail to show continuity, you will have to find out which part of the 3 contain the problem connection. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Don - Checked all the inductors and all showed continuity. The KPA100 works great when plugged into the K2. Tomorrow I'll check the voltages on the KPA100's U4, MAX1406. But, if the K2 works via the ribbon cable, I may be barking up the wrong tree. As always, many thanks for the help. 73 de K1ESE John Don Wilhelm wrote: John, Don't be so quick to conclude it is the KPA100 - the lines used for KPA100 control are different than the lines used for computer control. Only 3 of the pins in that connector are used for the serial port function, the rest are used for K2 functions. It pains me to hear the entire connecter referred to as a 'serial port' - look at the name on the connector, it is AUX I/O, and that means just what it says - an I/O connector for Auxiliary functions - the RXD and TXD signals are the only ones used for computer interfacing, and those are not used for KPA100 control when the KPA100 is mounted externally. If the KPA100 works with the ribbon cable plugged into the K2, then most everything is OK in the KPA100, but check the tiny inductors in both the KPA100 (next to the DB9 connector) and on the KIO2 - on the KIO2, there is one inductor on the AUX board. Any of those inductors open will cause problems with the KIO2 to KPA100 (or KAT100) interface. 73, Don W3FPR -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.37/682 - Release Date: 2/12/2007 1:23 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 smoke test
Dennis, I did that too (worked Sierra Hotel One Tango) with a ETO/Alpha 91B, some years ago. Boy, did I say some sharp words! Alpha support got me back on line, just a couple of fried diodes on the control board. With the K2's minutarisation, some extra ICs might be gone, but it can all be fixed. Never even had to ship the hulk back to CO, thank goodness. I am sure that Elecraft will get you back in action with much less angst. Cheers and good luck with the reworking.73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: k2 smoke test
Hi Dennis, Don't lose hope. You will be a better builder after you fix this. If you don't have one, get a digital volt meter. You can probably get a decent one for about $20. ALWAYS check the voltage , and the POLARITY, if DC of any power supply, including batteries before you hook them up to equipment. If the center of a DC power plug is supposed to be positive, it is very important that you don't reverse the wires. Steve, W2MY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.37/682 - Release Date: 2/12/2007 1:23 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100, C2A, C6D
-J, Yes, that is 'normal'. The silkscreen indicates the position of the capacitor, not the size or shape. 73, Don W3FPR >-Original Message- > > On the KPA100 kit, C2A and C6D are 1200PF 500V caps. The ones I got > were marked "122J" and are of the brown type (like 103, 104, etc.) but > bigger. C2a/C6d though are not quite as big as the other 500V caps > included in the kit, and they don't fit perfectly into the cutouts on > the board, and they certainly are smaller than the board outlines. > > Is this normal? > > Thanks! > > -J > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.37/682 - Release Date: 2/12/2007 1:23 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
