Re: [Elecraft] K2 a little wobbly!

2007-04-13 Thread Mike Geddes

Thanks Ken. I will give it a try.

- Original Message - 
From: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mike Geddes [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 a little wobbly!



I'll wager that sliding one of the rubber feet slightly
right or left will fix the wobbles ...

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





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[Elecraft] K2 Kit

2007-04-13 Thread David Robertson
Gary,

When I built my K2 it was about 20 years since my last kit. I never had any 
problems that I couldn't handle and Elecraft was very helpful in answering 
questions as well as this forum.  You want the K2. It has much more to offer.

As I am now 63 years old the old eyes aren't what they are use to be so the use 
of a good magnifying glass, good lighting, and a good temperature controlled 
soldering iron really does help.

The manual is really laid out effectivily. Follow Elecraft's instructions and 
you will be rewarded by both a lot of fun and a great rig

73

Dave KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

2007-04-13 Thread Tom Zeltwanger
Don,

Thanks for the info - sounds easy. I did buy the KAT100-2, planning on doing 
this after hearing all the discussion on the reflector. This will make a nice 
pair in the shack, and provide the portability/mobility I want. Hey, I may even 
try mobile operation for the first time ever with the QRP rig. 

73,

Tom KG3V


Quoting Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Tom,
 
 I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
 If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the 
 mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the 
 KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin 
 header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC 
 power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2 
 which includes the required headers).
 
 For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the 
 KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the 
 KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual 
 for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is 
 where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax 
 with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with 
 the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the 
 coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
 
 That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the 
 KPA100 was installed internally.
 
 If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the 
 situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack 
 on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the 
 mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC 
 connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like 
 the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX 
 I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it, 
   not really difficult at all.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
  Don,
  
  I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2). I
 have 
  seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are directions out
 
  there for doing this. Is there any one set of directions that is best in
 terms 
  of describing all the steps? I don't necessarily need photos, but I need 
  something that covers everything that needs to be done.
  
  73,
  
  Tom KG3V
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 a little wobbly!

2007-04-13 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi Mike and all,
I seem to remember many years ago when I was building K2 #402 that there is 
some play in the connections for the case as the panels are put together.  I 
think that I had the same problem that you have.  The slop in the 
connections is required so the screws will always enter the panel holes, but 
if things aren't kept in alignment the resulting box can end up a bit 
warped, as the slop in each hole can add up to a significant variance when 
the box is complete.


I think I took the case apart and when I reassembled it I built it on a flat 
surface.  I tried to make each joint match up as best I could as I added the 
bottom, sides, front panels, etc.  I think the test as to whether the case 
is in good alignment is when you attach the top cover as the last piece. 
All the corners of the top should line up perfectly with the other panel 
corners.  Sometimes I had to loosen the other two screws on the silver 
connector bars and sometimes another panel completely to get everything to 
match up.


Once the case is aligned I was always careful to consider which panel to 
remove when servicing the unit.  Taking to top panel off is always easy, but 
if you take another panel off afterwards like a side panel, you will have to 
be sure the two are properly aligned with each other and to the other panels 
when reassembling the case. I don't know if this has ever been fully 
addressed before.


I hope this helps, and I hope this doesn't sound like I am a nut. ;o)

Regards,
Steve Pituch, W2MY 


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RE: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

2007-04-13 Thread Michael G. Heitmann
Fred,

I built a KPA100 amp and a KAT100 tuner in a separate EC2 enclosure. It sits 
right beside my K2, works great, and can easily be
disconnected to use the K2 without the amp when desired. It's very easy to do, 
both the amp and tuner were designed with that specific configuration in mind. 
Here is a website that describes how to do this:
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

73 de Mike , N0SO


-Original Message-
From: Fred (FL)[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 4/12/07 6:39:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.netelecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
the past - but here goes again:

What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?

Fred
N3CSY


   


Looking for earth-friendly autos? 
Browse Top Cars by Green Rating at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
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[Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread Stephen Przepiora

Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I am
interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the KX1 and
then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2.

I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably spend
about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme portability
isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I will get a KX1
for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging a car battery to a
table at most 50 feet.

The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a basic
K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly progressing
so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without knowing code, but
if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford it again for a while.

My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to add
things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make sure.

Thank you,
Steve
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RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread Darwin, Keith
The K1, KX1 and K2 are different radios that serve different purposes.
The K2 is the better performing of the 3 and a bare bones K2 is a very
well equipped top performing rig.  I'm a CW op and my K2 has only the
SSB adapter and 100 watt PA as options.  I use an outboard audio filter
to kill some of the hiss and clean up the sidetone and I'm quite happy
with the setup.  The K2 is good enough to serve as a person's only rig
for base use.

Options are easily added to the K2 after it is done.  Many options do
require you to make simple mods to the K2 (adding components, replacing
components) but those mods are clearly outlined in the documentation
that comes with the relate option.

If you'd rather not do the rework at the time an option goes in, then
you could go with the Rework Eliminators during the initial kit build.
This approach has you making all the option mods to the K2 from the
start.  Later, when you add the option, you just build the option and
plug it in.  But be careful, the Rework Eliminators add complexity to
the initial K2 build and can make debugging more difficult since the rig
doesn't match the official K2 documentation.  It is very important that
you follow directions exactly.  If you do, you're rewarded with a much
more final K2 that you don't have to touch again. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stephen Przepiora
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 9:58 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I
am interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the
KX1 and then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2.

I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably
spend about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme
portability isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I
will get a KX1 for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging
a car battery to a table at most 50 feet.

The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a
basic
K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly
progressing so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without
knowing code, but if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford
it again for a while.

My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to
add things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make
sure.

Thank you,
Steve
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[Elecraft] Backward CW - Redux

2007-04-13 Thread KJ3D
 
To all who responded - a resounding THANK YOU.

I seem to be OK now. 

When I first set out to work on the CW filters, I found half of them on the
wrong side.  Before starting on them, I decided to redo my SSB filters
(which were OK) and managed to screw them up.  Then, after setting up the CW
filters, they were ALL wrong.

After finding and fixing the SSB then redoing the CW, all seems well.  In
fact I just worked W9ZN and apparently he could actually hear me.  

Anyway, things seem to be working ok.

Once again, the responsiveness of this group has validated my decision to
build 4991.

 

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[Elecraft] K2 building plan

2007-04-13 Thread Greg Derda
Hi all, this is my first post here, and although I see the concurrent 
Looking at Elecraft Kits message, I didn't want to step on that 
thread, because my question is a little different.


I've gotten the K2 bug (real bad ;-) and plan to order one in the 
coming week.  I have some kit building experience, and have a Hakko 
936, magnifying lamp, etc., although I need to study the information on 
the Elecraft site about recommended solder.  I want to build a K2 for 
use as a base station, and (as a No-Code General) plan to 
purchase/build in the following order:


1.  K2 w/ KSB2, and include the Rework Eliminator Option Ready 
package.  I'll worry about a mic when the time comes.


2.  KPA100 (internal, not in an EC2 with the KAT100, etc.)

3.  KAT100

4.  KNB2, K160M, K60XV

5.  KDSP2

Considering that (if I understand correctly) the Rework Eliminator 
package aids in progressive building, my question is:


Does this seem like a feasible plan, or is there something (e.g., 
K60XV, for which I can't find a whole lot of info about) that would be 
better to build in initially?


Thanks in advance,
Greg, Athens, GA
KI4MMM

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K1 or K2

2007-04-13 Thread Gary D Krause

Hi Dale,

I'm thinking about giving the K2 a try and I'm also interested in the external 
amp for it.  I noticed that some here have talked about that.  It would be 
nice to have a QRP rig and a separate amp.  Does Elecraft sell the amp as a 
stand alone or do you have to build it into the rig?


Well, my GAP Challenger came down with the wind several month ago.  It snapped 
off at the base.  I had it in a tilt mount.  So, I cut the antenna in half and 
made a couple of quarter wave ground plane verticals out of it.  They work 
better than any vertical I have ever had.  I managed to work some DX a couple 
of weeks ago when the band conditions were good.


I'm glad to hear that the K2 reciever is out of this world.  Maybe we'll be 
the first to work Mars when one finally makes it there! Hi!  I'm getting 
excited about getting one.  I need to buy a good soldering station and DMM 
before I do.  It should be a fun project.


Gary, N7HTS

  



On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 05:57:26 -0600
 Dale Putnam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi Gary,
 Been here and there, Lucent/Avaya, then Sprint, then/now at the base taking 
care of their radios. Pretty much the same position that I had when I moved 
to Cheyenne before WyDOT. Odd how things go around like that.
 Yes, I have a K2, and also some of the Steve Weber rigs, the AT series, all 
but the last one. Seems the K2 has a rx that just is out of this world. 
Compared to the Icom 761, it does noticeable better, in crowded, noisy, or 
busy conditions. I have a mic with mine, but seldom use it. You shouldn't 
have any trouble with it at all. Don Wilhelm is excellent with the 
assistance. 
  How've you been? Are the antennas stayin up with all this nice ice and 
wind? --...   ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


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[Elecraft] Sloppy holes ??

2007-04-13 Thread Ken Kopp

I don't agree with the concept of sloppy holes being
needed or having been designed into the K2 case.

On the contrarty, the mechanical fit of the cabinet
parts/panels is IMPRESSIVE!

Having a background that gives me some insight into
what's going on behind the scenes, this simply jumped
out at me when I started the assembly of the kit.

It takes a good bit of effort and attention to detail to
produce a product of this caliber.  Said another way,
it's all in the details.

Elecraft is a study in contrast when compared to MFJ,
and Ten-Tec. (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] Sloppy holes ??

2007-04-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

I agree,  The holes in the assemblies are not sloppy.  They are 
however a small bit larger than the minimum required clearance size for 
4-40 screws.


That slightly larger hole size allows tolerance for any paint buildup 
inside the holes, ease of screw insertion and does allow a tiny bit of 
adjustment for the assembled enclosure as well as a bit of adjustment 
for the placement of the 2-D connectors.


Anyone with a case that is a bit 'wobbly' can usually cure it by putting 
the tilt bail in the down position and placing the enclosure on a flat 
surface - then loosen side panel, rear panel and top panel screws a 
little bit and apply a slight downward pressure to the enclosure while 
tightening the screws.  After that, any wobbliness that occurs when 
the tilt bail is upright can be taken care of by adjusting the tilt bail 
attachment feet a bit in a front-to-back direction.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Kopp wrote:

I don't agree with the concept of sloppy holes being
needed or having been designed into the K2 case.

On the contrarty, the mechanical fit of the cabinet
parts/panels is IMPRESSIVE!

Having a background that gives me some insight into
what's going on behind the scenes, this simply jumped
out at me when I started the assembly of the kit.

It takes a good bit of effort and attention to detail to
produce a product of this caliber.  Said another way,
it's all in the details.

Elecraft is a study in contrast when compared to MFJ,
and Ten-Tec. (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?

2007-04-13 Thread Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
With all the talk about Elecraft amps, I have a question.  I have a K1 
which I am very happy with.  I plan to take the rig fixed mobile as I 
find myself often in situations where I often find myself waiting for 
long periods in my car.  I have a 40 and 20 meter mobile antenna coming 
and plan to try my luck at a homebrew portable all band antenna.  But, I 
would like to be able to run more than 5 watts with the K1.  So then, do 
the Elecraft amps lend themselves to such a possibility, or, am I better 
of either homebrewing a 30 - 50 or so watt amp, or kit like the HF 
Project amp kit.  I must not be the only K1 user looking for higher 
output power options.  Thanks.


Jozef WB2MIC

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K1 or K2

2007-04-13 Thread Gary D Krause

Hi David,

It's great that there are so many of us in Wyoming. Hi!  I'm in Cheyenne. 
Well, I'm thinking of getting the amp and ssb option with the initial order 
rather than adding them later.  From what I have read so far, I'm assuming it 
will be easier to do that with the initial build than having to rework it 
later.  I'm aware of the rework kit that is available but, I'm trying to keep 
the cost down as much as possible.


Thanks for the info on the light.  I have some lights that I can use (since 
I'm an artist, I tend to have those things laying around).  I do have some ice 
cube trays that I don't use so, thanks for the tip!


You won't have any problem with the code.  My advice, not that you asked for 
it, is to practice about twenty minutes a day and then just forget it until 
the next day.  Your mind will assimilate it and in no time, about four to six 
weeks, you'll be ready to give it a try.  I work mostly CW myself.  There is 
definitely a rhythm to it and you will be able to tell who is using a computer 
and who in using a key. ;)  When you are ready, let me know and we could set 
up a sched.


My concern is that I'll spend too much time constructing the K2 and not enough 
time on the air! Hi!


Gary, N7HTS


On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 09:10:06 -0600
 David King [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Gary...I'm KE7EKA, in Gilletteand am working on a K2 right now (SN#6048) 
and am just ready to launch into the RF Board (largest portion of the kit).


I've found a couple of things have been helpful.  I found a Ring Magnifier 
light on the swivel arm for about 50 bucks at Office Depot, and wouldn't have 
made it past the first board without it.  Best price I've found for 
that...most have been 90-110 bucks.


Also, we had several plastic ice cube trays in storage in the garage...I 
cleaned them up and have been using them as parts bins...when you open the 
parts bags and sort the parts, it helps to organize them in the trays.


I'm figuring on going the SSB route mostly, so that addition plus the 100 
watt amp add-on will both be on the list of next steps.


I'm finding it to be a great lot of funnot totally certain I want to 
finish it!  Then what'll I do with my spare time?  Oh, that's right...learn 
code and operate the rig!


David King
KE7EKA


Gary D Krause wrote:


Hi Dale,

I'm thinking about giving the K2 a try and I'm also interested in the 
external amp for it.  I noticed that some here have talked about 
that.  It would be nice to have a QRP rig and a separate amp.  Does 
Elecraft sell the amp as a stand alone or do you have to build it into 
the rig?


Well, my GAP Challenger came down with the wind several month ago.  It 
snapped off at the base.  I had it in a tilt mount.  So, I cut the 
antenna in half and made a couple of quarter wave ground plane 
verticals out of it.  They work better than any vertical I have ever 
had.  I managed to work some DX a couple of weeks ago when the band 
conditions were good.


I'm glad to hear that the K2 reciever is out of this world.  Maybe 
we'll be the first to work Mars when one finally makes it there! Hi!  
I'm getting excited about getting one.  I need to buy a good soldering 
station and DMM before I do.  It should be a fun project.


Gary, N7HTS

 


On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 05:57:26 -0600
 Dale Putnam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hi Gary,
 Been here and there, Lucent/Avaya, then Sprint, then/now at the base 
taking care of their radios. Pretty much the same position that I had 
when I moved to Cheyenne before WyDOT. Odd how things go around like 
that.
 Yes, I have a K2, and also some of the Steve Weber rigs, the AT 
series, all but the last one. Seems the K2 has a rx that just is out 
of this world. Compared to the Icom 761, it does noticeable better, 
in crowded, noisy, or busy conditions. I have a mic with mine, but 
seldom use it. You shouldn't have any trouble with it at all. Don 
Wilhelm is excellent with the assistance.   How've you been? Are the 
antennas stayin up with all this nice ice and wind? --...   ...-- 
Dale - WC7S in Wy


_
Your friends are close to you. Keep them that way.
http://spaces.live.com/signup.aspx



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RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I strongly recommend the K2, Steve. 

Adding the options when you want is very simple. The K2 was designed to be
built just that way and it's a trivial exercise to install options after
you've built, tested and used the basic K2. The K2 is designed to be taken
to bits in a few minutes, should you ever want to do that, but the modules
are added with a minimum of fuss-and-bother without doing a lot of heavy
disassembly. Usually they involve adding a header to a pc board where the
module will plug in and cutting or removing a jumper that you installed
during the initial build to bypass the module until you add it. 

Some of those options are perfect for your style of portable work - such as
the optional built-in antenna tuner and battery that mount in the removable
top cover. With them, all you need is a key and some wire to use for an
antenna to go portable. If you decide you'd like a 100-watt K2/100 in the
future, you can add the KPA100. It, too, is in a removable lid that replaces
the QRP top that may contain your portable battery and tuner. So a couple
of minutes - at the most - to swap top covers and your K2 is either a
world-class home station or a self-contained world-class portable station.

Congratulations on the license, Steve! You'll have a world of fun with your
Elecraft rig on the HF bands. When the bands are open for DX, it's literally
a world of fun! 

73, 

Ron AC7AC
 

-Original Message-

Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I am
interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the KX1 and
then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2.

I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably spend
about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme portability
isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I will get a KX1
for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging a car battery to a
table at most 50 feet.

The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a basic
K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly progressing
so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without knowing code, but
if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford it again for a while.

My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to add
things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make sure.

Thank you,
Steve

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 building plan

2007-04-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The order is unimportant, Greg, as long as you build the basic K2 first! 

I can't speak about the rework eliminators. They are not an Elecraft product
and I didn't use them as I built my K2 module-by-module over the years. I
found adding modules a trivial exercise. Since I haven't added every module
Elecraft makes, I like not having extra plug-in jumpers in my K2 that may
never be used. As the basic K2 is built, the procedure includes placing wire
jumpers on the PC board (in one case it's a capacitor provided with the kit)
that bypass the connections to each option module. Then, as you choose and
add modules, part of the build process for each module involves installing a
header in a place provided on a K2 pc board where the module plugs in and
cutting/removing the jumper(s) your originally installed to bypass it. 

The K2 was designed to built modularly with each owner choosing those
options he/she finds useful or as they fit the budget.

The most important point is to build the K2 first, following the
instructions in the manual and doing the in-process resistance and
performance tests as they are called out. They are designed to catch any
mistakes quickly when they are still easiest to fix. Then, once you have the
K2 fully assembled and tested, you start adding the modules one-by-one in
any order you wish, checking the operation of each as you go. 

73, 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi all, this is my first post here, and although I see the concurrent 
Looking at Elecraft Kits message, I didn't want to step on that 
thread, because my question is a little different.

I've gotten the K2 bug (real bad ;-) and plan to order one in the 
coming week.  I have some kit building experience, and have a Hakko 
936, magnifying lamp, etc., although I need to study the information on 
the Elecraft site about recommended solder.  I want to build a K2 for 
use as a base station, and (as a No-Code General) plan to 
purchase/build in the following order:

1.  K2 w/ KSB2, and include the Rework Eliminator Option Ready 
package.  I'll worry about a mic when the time comes.

2.  KPA100 (internal, not in an EC2 with the KAT100, etc.)

3.  KAT100

4.  KNB2, K160M, K60XV

5.  KDSP2

Considering that (if I understand correctly) the Rework Eliminator 
package aids in progressive building, my question is:

Does this seem like a feasible plan, or is there something (e.g., 
K60XV, for which I can't find a whole lot of info about) that would be 
better to build in initially?

Thanks in advance,
Greg, Athens, GA
KI4MMM

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 building plan

2007-04-13 Thread Gary D Krause

Hi Ron,

I'm glad you mention how easy it is to add the modules.  That'something that I 
was wondering about also.  Some people make it sound like it's really 
difficult to do and others say it's a breeze.  It's hard to know for sure 
until you experience it yourself.  I think I will order the basic rig and 
build it, then add the modules as I go.  I'm only interested in the SSB module 
and the amp.


Gary, N7HTS


On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 09:19:36 -0700
 Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The order is unimportant, Greg, as long as you build the basic K2 first! 


I can't speak about the rework eliminators. They are not an Elecraft product
and I didn't use them as I built my K2 module-by-module over the years. I
found adding modules a trivial exercise. Since I haven't added every module
Elecraft makes, I like not having extra plug-in jumpers in my K2 that may
never be used. As the basic K2 is built, the procedure includes placing wire
jumpers on the PC board (in one case it's a capacitor provided with the kit)
that bypass the connections to each option module. Then, as you choose and
add modules, part of the build process for each module involves installing a
header in a place provided on a K2 pc board where the module plugs in and
cutting/removing the jumper(s) your originally installed to bypass it. 


The K2 was designed to built modularly with each owner choosing those
options he/she finds useful or as they fit the budget.

The most important point is to build the K2 first, following the
instructions in the manual and doing the in-process resistance and
performance tests as they are called out. They are designed to catch any
mistakes quickly when they are still easiest to fix. Then, once you have the
K2 fully assembled and tested, you start adding the modules one-by-one in
any order you wish, checking the operation of each as you go. 

73, 


Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi all, this is my first post here, and although I see the concurrent 
Looking at Elecraft Kits message, I didn't want to step on that 
thread, because my question is a little different.


I've gotten the K2 bug (real bad ;-) and plan to order one in the 
coming week.  I have some kit building experience, and have a Hakko 
936, magnifying lamp, etc., although I need to study the information on 
the Elecraft site about recommended solder.  I want to build a K2 for 
use as a base station, and (as a No-Code General) plan to 
purchase/build in the following order:


1.  K2 w/ KSB2, and include the Rework Eliminator Option Ready 
package.  I'll worry about a mic when the time comes.


2.  KPA100 (internal, not in an EC2 with the KAT100, etc.)

3.  KAT100

4.  KNB2, K160M, K60XV

5.  KDSP2

Considering that (if I understand correctly) the Rework Eliminator 
package aids in progressive building, my question is:


Does this seem like a feasible plan, or is there something (e.g., 
K60XV, for which I can't find a whole lot of info about) that would be 
better to build in initially?


Thanks in advance,
Greg, Athens, GA
KI4MMM

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Re: [Elecraft] kpa100

2007-04-13 Thread Dr. Werner Furlan
hi Don, 

Don Wilhelm schrieb am 13 Apr 2007 um 0:01:

 For those who do not want to list and purchase the parts individually,
 those parts are included in KPA100UPKT.

I think the same applies to me. Do you recommend to build the KPA100 with 
the upgrade kit? then I'd have to order it. 
I think there will be less to change than doing it afterwards.

73! de Werner OE9FWV


-- 
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some day you'll join us and the world will be as one.
John Lennon


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Elecraft K2 #5203

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[Elecraft] DSP, is it IF

2007-04-13 Thread David Wilburn
I continue to see impressive information about the DSP, and based on the 
description it sounds very likely that it is an IF level DSP, but I do 
not see it stated anywhere.  Is that the case?  As I think to myself I 
could probably answer this looking through the schematics.

--

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
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[Elecraft] K2/100 Final Berillium transistors

2007-04-13 Thread Pierre Desjardins

Hi to all,

As mentionned in the KPA100 manual, Q1-Q2 2SC2879 contain Beryllia Ceramic. 
Do not break, cut, or crush them, since the dust or vapor can be dangerous.


However, there is a new design, the 2SC2879A. The difference between the 
2SC2879 and the 2SC2879A is that the A version is RoHS compliant, and uses 
an Aluminum Oxide insulator (color gray) on the header vs. Berillium Oxide 
(color white).


Hope for all that Elecraft will use the new ''A'' design in future 
upgrades...


72/73 de Pierre VE2PID

K2/100 # 5170
KX1 # 442 


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RE: [Elecraft] DSP, is it IF

2007-04-13 Thread Darwin, Keith
Nope, AF.  It plugs in to the same place as the analog audio filter so
you can have only on in the K2.  KDSP or KAF, not both.

- Keith - 

-Original Message-
From: David Wilburn

I continue to see impressive information about the DSP, and based on the
description it sounds very likely that it is an IF level DSP, but I do
not see it stated anywhere.  Is that the case?  As I think to myself I
could probably answer this looking through the schematics.
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread David Wilburn
The new companion document from Rework Eliminators places all of the 
information (that from Elecraft, and that from RE) in one document. 
This eases the complexity considerably.  But if you are 
troubleshooting a problem that goes through one of the connections, or 
sections that are mod'ed then you will have to keep track of it, as you 
would if you were working with an Elecraft with the added options.  I 
tripped up while using them, by missing a step (my own fault).  But they 
never caused any problems while troubleshooting and I am glad I used 
them.  I just purchased the 160m option, and just completed the SSB 
option.  In both cases, all I have to do is unplug the RE board, and 
plug in the new ones and continue with the integration.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Darwin, Keith wrote:

The K1, KX1 and K2 are different radios that serve different purposes.
The K2 is the better performing of the 3 and a bare bones K2 is a very
well equipped top performing rig.  I'm a CW op and my K2 has only the
SSB adapter and 100 watt PA as options.  I use an outboard audio filter
to kill some of the hiss and clean up the sidetone and I'm quite happy
with the setup.  The K2 is good enough to serve as a person's only rig
for base use.

Options are easily added to the K2 after it is done.  Many options do
require you to make simple mods to the K2 (adding components, replacing
components) but those mods are clearly outlined in the documentation
that comes with the relate option.

If you'd rather not do the rework at the time an option goes in, then
you could go with the Rework Eliminators during the initial kit build.
This approach has you making all the option mods to the K2 from the
start.  Later, when you add the option, you just build the option and
plug it in.  But be careful, the Rework Eliminators add complexity to
the initial K2 build and can make debugging more difficult since the rig
doesn't match the official K2 documentation.  It is very important that
you follow directions exactly.  If you do, you're rewarded with a much
more final K2 that you don't have to touch again. 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stephen Przepiora
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 9:58 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I
am interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the
KX1 and then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2.

I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably
spend about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme
portability isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I
will get a KX1 for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging
a car battery to a table at most 50 feet.

The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a
basic
K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly
progressing so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without
knowing code, but if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford
it again for a while.

My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to
add things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make
sure.

Thank you,
Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP, is it IF

2007-04-13 Thread Lyle Johnson
I continue to see impressive information about the DSP, and based on the 
description it sounds very likely that it is an IF level DSP, but I do 
not see it stated anywhere.  Is that the case?  As I think to myself I 
could probably answer this looking through the schematics.


 URL:http://www.elecraft.com/KDSP2/kdsp2.htm  and click on the link to 
KDSP2 Design Notes.


It provides the answer to your question and give you more background and 
insight into what the KDSP2 does and does not do -- and why!


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 Final Berillium transistors

2007-04-13 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Hi Pierre,

We have been shipping KPA100's with the 2SC2879A transistors (with the 
Al Oxide die insulator) for a while now. Looks like we need to update 
that section of our manual! Thanks for the heads up.


73, Eric   WA6HHQ
Elecraft


Pierre Desjardins wrote:

Hi to all,

As mentionned in the KPA100 manual, Q1-Q2 2SC2879 contain Beryllia 
Ceramic. Do not break, cut, or crush them, since the dust or vapor can 
be dangerous.


However, there is a new design, the 2SC2879A. The difference between 
the 2SC2879 and the 2SC2879A is that the A version is RoHS 
compliant, and uses an Aluminum Oxide insulator (color gray) on the 
header vs. Berillium Oxide (color white).


Hope for all that Elecraft will use the new ''A'' design in future 
upgrades...


72/73 de Pierre VE2PID

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RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread Kevin Rock
Welcome to you Steve,
   I would like to add a few comments to what Ron has stated.  I purchased my 
K2 in 2001 before I knew very much code at all.  I bought the SSB module 
because I thought I would use that mode frequently.  After a very pleasant 
building experience I sat down to listen to the bands with my modest antenna.  
I purchased a set of paddles so I could practice CW to gain the next level 
license.  I found the K2 was a very nice code practice oscillator.  Learning CW 
starts as two processes: sending and receiving.  The K2 has an excellent 
receiver so I could listen to CW the way it is really sent and 'copy' as much 
as possible.  I could listen to the W1AW CW broadcasts and copy their machine 
sending.  Next I would put the K2 in the TEST mode and send to myself from a 
newspaper or text book.  Somehow or another sending page after page of code 
helped my ear hear more accurately.  After about six months of this I went to 
the local VE session and passed Element 1.  It took some prodding by the very 
VE who had given me the test to get on the air for real.  Once again my steady 
K2 was up to the task; unlike the shakey operator at the key ;)  I managed to 
get his call sign and RST, the rest is lost to history.  Even though the swamp 
cooler was on high and it was a rather cool day for Albuquerque I was soaked 
through.  Nothing like trial by fire!  I have gotten marginally better over the 
years since then.  The two modes of CW: listening and sending have merged into 
a single method of conversation.  I still use my K2 for code practice and for 
listening to folks 'chat' via CW.  It was a great training instrument and 
serves me well in weekly use.  You will have fun all along the path toward your 
goal of working CW in the woods.  
   73,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

P.S. The SSB unit is still in the rig but has only been used twice!
   KJR

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Apr 13, 2007 8:55 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

I strongly recommend the K2, Steve. 

Adding the options when you want is very simple. The K2 was designed to be
built just that way and it's a trivial exercise to install options after
you've built, tested and used the basic K2. The K2 is designed to be taken
to bits in a few minutes, should you ever want to do that, but the modules
are added with a minimum of fuss-and-bother without doing a lot of heavy
disassembly. Usually they involve adding a header to a pc board where the
module will plug in and cutting or removing a jumper that you installed
during the initial build to bypass the module until you add it. 

Some of those options are perfect for your style of portable work - such as
the optional built-in antenna tuner and battery that mount in the removable
top cover. With them, all you need is a key and some wire to use for an
antenna to go portable. If you decide you'd like a 100-watt K2/100 in the
future, you can add the KPA100. It, too, is in a removable lid that replaces
the QRP top that may contain your portable battery and tuner. So a couple
of minutes - at the most - to swap top covers and your K2 is either a
world-class home station or a self-contained world-class portable station.

Congratulations on the license, Steve! You'll have a world of fun with your
Elecraft rig on the HF bands. When the bands are open for DX, it's literally
a world of fun! 

73, 

Ron AC7AC
 

-Original Message-

Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I am
interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the KX1 and
then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2.

I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably spend
about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme portability
isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I will get a KX1
for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging a car battery to a
table at most 50 feet.

The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a basic
K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly progressing
so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without knowing code, but
if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford it again for a while.

My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to add
things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make sure.

Thank you,
Steve

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Re: [Elecraft] DSP, is it IF

2007-04-13 Thread David Wilburn
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.  I was doing a program on the K2 at my 
club the other night and someone asked if it was a IF or AF DSP.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Lyle Johnson wrote:
I continue to see impressive information about the DSP, and based on 
the description it sounds very likely that it is an IF level DSP, but 
I do not see it stated anywhere.  Is that the case?  As I think to 
myself I could probably answer this looking through the schematics.


 URL:http://www.elecraft.com/KDSP2/kdsp2.htm  and click on the link to 
KDSP2 Design Notes.


It provides the answer to your question and give you more background and 
insight into what the KDSP2 does and does not do -- and why!


73,

Lyle KK7P



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RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits

2007-04-13 Thread w6jd
Anyone who has listened to Kevin run the Sunday Elecraft net can attest to the 
fact that he has become quite proficient in the art of CW!

Doug
W6JD

-- Original message -- 
From: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Welcome to you Steve, 
 I would like to add a few comments to what Ron has stated. I purchased my K2 
 in 2001 before I knew very much code at all. I bought the SSB module because 
 I 
 thought I would use that mode frequently. After a very pleasant building 
 experience I sat down to listen to the bands with my modest antenna. I 
 purchased a set of paddles so I could practice CW to gain the next level 
 license. I found the K2 was a very nice code practice oscillator. Learning CW 
 starts as two processes: sending and receiving. The K2 has an excellent 
 receiver so I could listen to CW the way it is really sent and 'copy' as much 
 as 
 possible. I could listen to the W1AW CW broadcasts and copy their machine 
 sending. Next I would put the K2 in the TEST mode and send to myself from a 
 newspaper or text book. Somehow or another sending page after page of code 
 helped my ear hear more accurately. After about six months of this I went to 
 the local VE session and passed Element 1. It took some prodding by the very 
 VE 
 who had given me the test to get on the air for real. Once again my steady K2 
 was up to the task; unlike the shakey operator at the key ;) I managed to get 
 his call sign and RST, the rest is lost to history. Even though the swamp 
 cooler was on high and it was a rather cool day for Albuquerque I was soaked 
 through. Nothing like trial by fire! I have gotten marginally better over the 
 years since then. The two modes of CW: listening and sending have merged into 
 a 
 single method of conversation. I still use my K2 for code practice and for 
 listening to folks 'chat' via CW. It was a great training instrument and 
 serves 
 me well in weekly use. You will have fun all along the path toward your goal 
 of 
 working CW in the woods. 
 73, 
 Kevin. KD5ONS 
 
 P.S. The SSB unit is still in the rig but has only been used twice! 
 KJR 
 
 -Original Message- 
 From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 Sent: Apr 13, 2007 8:55 AM 
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Looking at Elecraft kits 
  
 I strongly recommend the K2, Steve. 
  
 Adding the options when you want is very simple. The K2 was designed to be 
 built just that way and it's a trivial exercise to install options after 
 you've built, tested and used the basic K2. The K2 is designed to be taken 
 to bits in a few minutes, should you ever want to do that, but the modules 
 are added with a minimum of fuss-and-bother without doing a lot of heavy 
 disassembly. Usually they involve adding a header to a pc board where the 
 module will plug in and cutting or removing a jumper that you installed 
 during the initial build to bypass the module until you add it. 
  
 Some of those options are perfect for your style of portable work - such as 
 the optional built-in antenna tuner and battery that mount in the removable 
 top cover. With them, all you need is a key and some wire to use for an 
 antenna to go portable. If you decide you'd like a 100-watt K2/100 in the 
 future, you can add the KPA100. It, too, is in a removable lid that replaces 
 the QRP top that may contain your portable battery and tuner. So a couple 
 of minutes - at the most - to swap top covers and your K2 is either a 
 world-class home station or a self-contained world-class portable station. 
  
 Congratulations on the license, Steve! You'll have a world of fun with your 
 Elecraft rig on the HF bands. When the bands are open for DX, it's literally 
 a world of fun! 
  
 73, 
  
 Ron AC7AC 
  
  
 -Original Message- 
  
 Hello All, As a newly licensed tech, I am looking around for radio's. I am 
 interested in the Elecraft kits, but am debating whether to get the KX1 and 
 then an older used radio for home or to just get a K2. 
  
 I do a bit of camping and hunting, over the course of a year probably spend 
 about a month in the woods but none of it is hiking so extreme portability 
 isn't that much of an issue. It might be in the future and I will get a KX1 
 for that, but right now it would be a matter of dragging a car battery to a 
 table at most 50 feet. 
  
 The fact is budgets being what they are, I probably can only afford a basic 
 K2 right now. I am trying hard to learn the code and I am slowly progressing 
 so it may seem like a waste to buy a basic K2 now without knowing code, but 
 if I do not get it now, I will not be able to afford it again for a while. 
  
 My main concern is if I get a basic K2 without any extras, is it easy to add 
 things later on? It seems like it would be, but I just want to make sure. 
  
 Thank you, 
 Steve 
  
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[Elecraft] RE: K2 and Digital Modes

2007-04-13 Thread Gary McKelvie



Hi to the list,

Thanks to every one that replied to my query about the K2 and Digital modes.
It was pretty much what I wanted to hear.
I've now ordered my kit and am looking forward to receiving it so 
that I can get started on building this radio.
So apologies to those that replied either to me on or off the list I 
usually reply far quicker than this.

once again Thanks for the info much appreciated.
Will no doubt be back in touch when I run into a problem :)
Several people have suggested to remote the 100w PA so I'll no doubt 
go that way and I've been following the recent thread in the list on 
doing that.

i now wish i had ordered a separate enclosure.
Currently no plans to get the AATU that might just be an idea for a 
birthday/Xmas present.


I never run any digital mode above 40 watts so may just get away with 
having the PA internal for now with the power limited to 30 on RTTY 
and lower on PSK etc


Just one other thing what microphones are best suited to the K2 ?
I currently use a Heil Proset with the HC 5 element on a Yaesu FT847 
and was wondering if that was suitable for the K2?



73 Gary

Gary McKelvie
G7USC
Web : www.garym.org.uk
Mobile : +447968501863
MSN Messenger : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So Long and Thanks for all the Fish 


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[Elecraft] Shack Cleaning

2007-04-13 Thread Bill Johnson
I am finishing up a few more Elecraft Kits and need to move some of the
surplus stuff.  I have a built AF filter which does a great job. Also have a
repaired extra KI02.  Before repairing I ordered an extra one.  This has the
board assembled but needs a new cable made with connectors.  All parts and
manual included.  Guaranteed to work.  Make me offers off list.  Maybe you
have something I need ... a trade?

Bill

K9YEQ
K2 #35; K2/100 #5279 (Under construction), KX1 #35, XG2, W1

Fish Creek, WI 54212

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[Elecraft] K1 160 meter modification

2007-04-13 Thread Chuck Gehring
I am looking for instructions to build or modify a KFL1-2 filter board for
160 meter operations.

73 K2CG

Chuck G.

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[Elecraft] Tax Day RFTB Announcement

2007-04-13 Thread Larry Makoski
Got the Income Tax blues?  Well, I've got something up my sleeve to take 
your mind off of your income tax preparation blues for at least two 
hours this Sunday night !


Because this Sunday evening the Flying Pigs Amateur Radio Club 
International will be holding its monthly Run For The Bacon.  This is a 
friendly, two hour QRP CW Sprint, which is open to ALL radio amateurs, 
will last from 9:00 - 11:00PM EDT (0100-0300 UTC Monday).


You may work stations once per band on 160, 80, 40, 20, 15 or 10 
Meters.  Suggested starting frequencies are 1.812, 3.562, 7.044, 14.062, 
21.062, and 28.062 MHz.


The exchange is RST, S/P/C (State, Province, Country) and Flying Pigs 
membership number.  If you're not a member of the Flying Pigs, and would 
like to be; then please click on the membership hyperlink on 
.http://www.gentzow.com/fpqrp/  Otherwise, non-members can just use 
their output power figure.


You can report your score via the Autolog page which can be found at : 
http://gentzow.com/fpqrp/autolog.asp
or you can mail your logs to the address given on the Autolog page.  The 
deadline for logs is April 22nd at 2400 UTC.


Hope to catch you on the air Sunday evening!

72 es oo
Larry W2LJ   FP#612

--
73 de Larry W2LJ
QRP - When you care to use the very least!

http://www.w2lj.qrpradio.com
http://w2lj.blogspot.com/

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