[Elecraft] K2 at N8S

2007-04-24 Thread Val
It was a pleasure to listen the N8S operators work. Great expedition!  The
web page says they used  IC756ProIII on all operating positions (Icom was
the major sponsor). I was surprised to see the photo: 
http://www.ur0mc.com/ru/big_photo.php?id=292  and the text  says
in russian : "The winner of the "The best top-band transceiver" competition
on it's expensive stand".

73, Val LZ1VB


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[Elecraft] KX1 #1740 - The first 100 QSOs

2007-04-24 Thread James Kearman
I built KX1 #1740 last month but waited until I had accumulated some 
experience to discuss it. With 100 QSOs in the log, I think I'm ready to 
let the cat loose. My comments will be most useful to people thinking 
about buying one.


Why KX1?
I live in a condo so I can only put up antennas at night, but I live 
near a nature preserve with lots of trees. I wanted the portability of 
the KX1, as opposed to features found in the K1, which was too big for 
my purposes


Options?
I got 'em all, 80-30, paddle, ATU

Assembly
Went together pretty easily. I merged the 80-30 mods into the original 
construction with no difficulties. I was shorted one RFC (pays to have a 
junkbox) and one RFC was supplied in mini rather than micro size but I 
made it fit. The instructions were very good. For the 80-30 mod part, 
having the instructions point to the correct area of the board, as is 
done in the main assembly manual, would have been helpful. But the radio 
worked first time and that's what counts. I spent a long time building 
it because my eyesight is getting poor and I didn't want the heartache 
of making a mistake. There is some close-quarter work involved in 
installing the 80-30 upgrade. Be prepared to take longer than you expected.


Before I got my kit I read every KX1 post to the Elecraft reflector for 
the previous year, and downloaded and studied the manuals. I strongly 
recommend anyone planning to build an Elecraft kit do the same. I knew 
in advance where I might run into trouble (such as a wire that can go 
astray on the little board that comes with the 80-30 upgrade), and 
gained the confidence to build the 80-30 mod right in, testing on 40 and 
20 M first, then adding the 80-30 main board and testing on 80 and 30 M. 
I built the ATU first, so that when the radio was finished I didn't have 
to wait to put it on the air. I work slowly but that doesn't mean I'm 
patient. :)


Performance - General
I use a 1.4 AH gel cell in the field, and get >4 W out on all bands. The 
receiver has a low enough noise floor that I can hear band noise on all 
bands, though I sometimes wish for a little more audio gain to pull out 
the weaker signals. I use and recommend MDR earbuds, which are much more 
sensitive than some cheaper ones I hd.


Performance - Specifics
Most of my contacts have been made on 20 and 40 M. Lately, for field use 
I've only been on 20 M, using a ground plane hanging from a branch, so 
the base is about 8 feet (2.5 m) off the ground, three sloping radials, 
fed through a coiled-up RG-58 balun. The SWR is 1.1 in the middle of the 
band, don't need the tuner. This antenna outperforms the inverted vee I 
tried first.


I've worked 30 countries on 20 M with this setup in a month, including 
such juicy stuff as ST2R, EL2DX (who answered my CQ on 14060!), 3XD2Z 
and 6V7F. I worked 6V7F in a pileup that required using the RIT to work 
split, which is hard work, and it took me about 15 minutes to get 
through. The west coast of Africa is a chip shot from my South Florida 
location, but I'm not complaining. Oh, and K2HYD/HR9, whom I found 
calling CQ on 14060. He was running a KX1, too!


I've also used the rig at home on 40 M, with an inverted vee. On 40 at 
night, strong signals blow past the filter and things get a little more 
difficult, but that's not the environment for which the radio was 
designed. I have worked TA3D, 3DA0PM and SU9FL on 40 with the rig, and 
3DA is farther from here than Japan. I will work a JA with it on 40 
eventually, it's a matter of staying up late enough. I've also used the 
KX1 from home in a couple of sprints.


Today I tried a random length of wire on 30 M from the park, to get an 
idea of what might work on an upcoming trip to England, Holland and 
France. I thought the higher angle radiation might get me more US QSOs 
but domestic activity on 30 seems light. I did work MI0SRR and G0RTN 
just before sunset, so even funky antennas will bring in DX sometimes. 
Too bad I have to be out of the park by sunset, and it's a half-hour 
walk back to my car.


The random length of wire was a little long for 30 M. Even though I 
added bypass capacitors to the ATU as recommended by Wayne, it went 
haywire a couple of times. I will make sure to keep the antenna shorter 
in future, or use a better counterpoise. But this was intended to be a 
worst-case kind of setup, something like I might encounter in a city 
park on the trip.


I've used all the features on the rig, and there are a bunch. Once you 
get a little practice you can quickly change keyer speed, jump in and 
out of RIT, or do any other necessary operation. I haven't done much 
SWLing, but I have listened to WWV a few times to get a feel for 
propagation. I have yet to make a QSO on 80 M, been too busy on the 
other bands.


I plan to swap in a set of rechargeable Lithium-Ion batteries for the 
trip, but the 1.4 AH gel cell has worked very well for an afternoon's 
operating. The battery, radio, headphones, paddle, clock and p

[Elecraft] Signal Generator

2007-04-24 Thread Al & Dianne Bruce
Good morning folks !  I am looking for a signal generator that outputs 
signals across the frequencies of the 15-40 band, and does not cost an 
arm and a leg. Need your advice, does such a creature exist?
   
Al




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[Elecraft] K2Net software

2007-04-24 Thread Don Clark
Hello,

I have had to take a break from rig control, but now have found some time.
I have K2Net up and running
remotely in CW, but can't seem to transmit SSB.  I have a server machine set
up and 2 other machines as clients.  On one machine I get a never ending
stream of error messages that says Invalid Command "Audio Data."  That
machine runs XP.  On the other machine I get the message: acmStreamOpen the
requested operation cannot be performed.  That machine runs VISTA.

If the volume knob of the client if full counter-clockwise, I don't get the
errors.  Am I having a conflict within the audio card?  I was doing eme with
JT65a earlier, so I know my connections are ok.

Don - KA6AKH

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Re: [Elecraft] WARNING

2007-04-24 Thread Mike Geddes

Never heard of them. What do they sell?

Mike
N4JX

- Original Message - 
From: "John Payne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:16 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] WARNING


Be careful ordering from Futurlec.  I have been going round-and-round 
with them for well over 2 months now and have still not received my 
order.  All I get is lies and excuses.  I am on the verge of disputing 
the charge with my bank, having given them an ultimatum.


73 de John  AI4JH



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[Elecraft] WARNING

2007-04-24 Thread John Payne
Be careful ordering from Futurlec.  I have been going round-and-round 
with them for well over 2 months now and have still not received my 
order.  All I get is lies and excuses.  I am on the verge of disputing 
the charge with my bank, having given them an ultimatum.


73 de John  AI4JH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise

2007-04-24 Thread Jim Brown
I suggest a different solution. Rebuild the serial cable using the 
techniques detailed in Chapter 8 of my RFI tutorial. 

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

Also, the coupling mechanism for the noise is very likely a "pin 1 
problem," also discussed in that tutorial. The ONLY good termination for 
a cable shield is the shielding enclosure (the chassis) of the equipment 
on each end. When you tie the shield to the "audio ground" or "control 
ground" or "signal ground," it allows the cable shield to radiate RF 
trash from the equipment, and it also allows the cable shield to RECEIVE 
RF from your transmitting antenna (also known as RF feedback, or "RF in 
the shack"). 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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[Elecraft] Re: Yaesu mic FS - SOLD

2007-04-24 Thread Mark Baugh
Thanks for the responses.

Mark, W5EZY
Grenada, MS


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[Elecraft] Yaesu mic FS

2007-04-24 Thread Mark Baugh
I have a Yaesu MH-31 mic with the 8-pin Elecraft
connector on it.  It makes a good mobile/portable mic
for the K2.  It has been reported to have very good
audio; seems to go well with the K2.  Price is $25
shipped conus.  Email direct if interested.

Mark, W5EZY
Grenada, MS

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

2007-04-24 Thread David Douglass
Just in case anyone else is suffering from unstable power out in tune mode,
I followed Don’s advice (as below) and changed R98 on the RF (270ohm) board
for a 1.5K resistor (I actually had a measured value of 1.64K on the POT but
1.5k was the closest fixed resistor I had).

Now when I enter tune, power output is much more stable, although it still
creeps up slightly with time. This makes tuning my DX-1 a lot easier and I'm
not tripping the amp out! Power out on 10m is down a little on the basic K2
(about 12w max), but I'm still getting 100w with the K2/100..

David, VK2NU






>If the variation is quite bothersome, your K2/100 may be a candidate for 
>increasing the value of R98 (on the bottom of the RF Board) to slow down 
>The power variation.  If you increase it too much, the power output on 
>the higher bands may decrease (check that with the basic K2, not with 
>the KPA100 powered).  In most cases, about 1k is the upper limit for the 
>value, but if your K2 has greater gain than the average, you may find 
>success with even higher values.  It is easiest to substitute a 2k pot 
>for R98 when testing for the best value, then measure the pot resistance 
>and put in the nearest fixed value resistor.

>This procedure is listed on the Elecraft website - in Builder's 
>Resources IIRC.

>73,
>Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS-232 Noise

2007-04-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

It is usually best to fan-fold the cable so it entirely tucks up into 
the corner at the top of the control board - and do the same thing with 
the speaker cable.  Removing the right side panel to dress the cable is 
the easiest way to accomplish the feat.


Keep the cables as far away from the KSB2 board as possible.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Fleming wrote:

Removing the freq counter cable had no effect. Repositioning the ribbon
cable did help some, but the noise is still there.  I tried positioning
the cable every way possible and found the most quite spot by routing it
back beneath the shield and then folding it sharply toward the front - 
right above but not touching the crystals on KSB2.  I taped the cable

to the shield at this spot.  Without an antenna, the noise is still ~S2
(2 leds) on most bands. But with an antenna attached it disappears into
the band noise.  So I suppose it's not too big a deal. But I'd still
like to get rid of the noise completely. I never noticed it with the
KIO2. I also changed the polling frequency to 1 second. That makes the
noise more or less insignificant. But now I have to look at the rig's
S-meter instead of the virtual one on the monitor. :)

Anyways, the K2 is working *great*.  It a real joy to operate and the
receiver is simply fantastic. I'll be taking it on a DX vacation to
Bermuda the last week in July.  I'm looking forward to finding out what
it's like to "BE" DX. :)

73

-David W4SMT   


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