Re: [Elecraft] K3 Narrowing the filters on SSB

[Tony Fegan VE3QF]

Don,

   At present the filter centre frequency is unchanged as the filter 
Width is reduced. If the centre frequency on SSB could be reduced by 
half the change in bandwidth then the LO-Cut frequency would remain the 
same. This is the same as how the Hi-Cut works. If we now add another 
variable so that when the bandwidth goes below about 2.2KHz, we slightly 
reduce the reduction in centre frequency, then this could start to raise 
the Lo-Cut frequency up to about 500Hz by the time we reach a bandwidth 
of 1.0KHz.
   This would allow the Width control on SSB to be used just like on 
CW. Just one control right down to the narrowest bandwidth.
   I tried your suggestion of moving the VFO at the narrower bandwidths 
but did not find any improvement over raising the Lo-Cut frequency. I 
was careful to tune in to signals close to their correct frequency and 
not where they sounded best. I found that a signal in the clear could be 
copied down to very narrow bandwidths but with QRM it was easier to copy 
on a slightly wider bandwidth. Of course it all depends on which side 
the QRM is.
   Maybe this topic should be renamed to "Digging in the dirt". I like 
looking for those very weak signals. At least my ears work fairly well, 
even if the associated processor is a bit suspect.


73
   Tony Fegan VE3QF


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Tony,

If you loose substantial intelligibility when moving the Hi-cut to 
narrow the SSB width, try moving the VFO just a bit.  With a properly 
tuned SSB signal and Lo-Cut set to 0.25, I can dial Hi-cut down to 
about 1.05 and still understand what is being said.  If the signal is 
slightly mistuned, then intelligibility suffers when Hi-Cut is reduced 
below 1.85.


The problem with making a 'center tracking' SSB width control is that 
it would do the same thing as Hi-Cut does now - I don't know how that 
would solve anything.


73,
Don W3FPR



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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for March

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   My ears are in better shape now that I've had a break for dinner.  Forty 
meters was getting very loud toward the end of the second net.  QRN from 
Midwestern storms was strong, QSB was getting deeper, and the QRM was strong 
enough to cover my sidetone.  I did manage to work a QRP station at the end but 
he was very tough; sorry Aubrey, I just could not get all of your sending.  
However, the second net lasted until 0213z while the first one terminated at 
2355z for my much needed break.  I've not counted the number of check ins but 
signals were good and the log will be filled by the time I am done.
   Spring is coming slowly to the Northwest.  In the valley the first daffodils 
are blooming.  Up here the snow drops are just getting started.  There is a six 
week difference due to the elevation.  Most of the snow is gone but I had a 
little more yesterday.  It got rather cold last night so I brought in an extra 
load of wood.  Sam is staring at the woodstove in a daze of pleasure.  One day 
I expect to find him melted with a Cheshire smile in the puddle :)

   On to the lists  =>

On 14049.5 kHz at 2300z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
WB8YQJ - Don - CA - K2 - 2???
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
NO8V - John - MI 
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 21
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628  QNI #20!!
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W0SZ - Steve - CO - K3 - 176
N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646   * QNI #115 *
AK2B - Tom - NY - K3 - 109
K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152
K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
K4BEH - Pat - GA - K2 - 5061

On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553 * QNI #105 *
W0JFR - John - CO - K2 - 4507
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 - 75 
N0FU - Bill - CA
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N7KRT - Jeff - NV - K2 - 5471
W0LK - Bob - AR - K2 - 1208
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866   * QNI #105 *
K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152  QNI #90
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345
WB8YQJ - Don - CA - K2 - 2???
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392
K3MZ - Paul - VA - K3 - 84
K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608
K3OOL - Craig - PA - K2 - 4790QNI #20!!
W1OH - Geoff - MA - K2 - 6099 QNI #5!
N2YC - John - NY - K2 - 5949
W6ODG - Aubrey - CA - K1 - 

   These 40 check ins tie the highest number ever!  550 individuals have 
checked in for a total of 4476 times.  We have collected 426 separate serial 
numbers for the rigs we could verify.  There are many other rigs used thus far 
but we did not start asking for serial numbers until later in our history.  We 
still need SD and DE for an Elecraft to Elecraft Worked All States.  It really 
doesn't count for WAS unless it is pure :)  Not being an elitist, I am simply 
making it a bit more difficult ;)  I know there is at least one radio amateur 
in DE and another one in SD because I have worked each of them CW.  I just 
don't think they get on the air very often!  Kind of like that WA6HHQ guy :)  
He spends way too much time off the air!
   I know there are a few fills required in the above lists.  If there are in 
corrects too please send them to me via email.  From what I could ascertain 
spring has not yet hit a lot of the country.  The sun is rising earlier and 
higher but the temperatures are not yet warm.  I am going to continue clearing 
the winter windfall from the yard so Pat's daffodils will not have to fight 
their way through the debris.  Another couple of weeks and they will start 
sprouting.
   Until next week stay well,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

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[Elecraft] Special Split Operation

[Brett Howard]

Lets see if anyone has any opinions on this:

How about the possibility of a special single band split mode.  After
doing a bit of playing on this latest contest I saw possible value in a
mode where direct entry automatically assumes you're going to stay on
the same band.

So if you want to work split and the DX station says  listening
on 225 and you're on 7.085 and you're in this special mode.  Then you
could just switch to the other VFO and press enter 225 and then pop back
and be ready to rock and roll.  Not having to enter the 7 or the 00 at
the end could save you a bit of time.  There are times where its
something like 7.225.5 and for that one could possibly setup the RIT/XIT
knob to be able to pull that off in one detent.  

Not sure what button I'd implement this on but something in the area of
freq ent seems reasonable.  Would be nice if you could skip the freq ent
button in this mode too as that would make times even faster but would
make operation of the rest of the rig a bit of an annoyance.

Sorry if my operation is a bit vague but I don't have a K3 so I'm having
to go just off of what I've read in the manual and of the operation of
my TS-450Sat.

Thanks much for your insights gentlemen.

~Brett (KC7OTG)
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

While you can certainly follow DW's advice, there's an errata to the manual
due to be released in a day or two that says to simply solder the leads to
the pads even though they don't pass through the holes. Without flooding the
board with solder, just use enough to make a good connection between the
leads and the pads. The existing errata shows a picture of how that looks
when it's done. The solder joints are plenty strong enough to hold the
diffuser even though the shorter leads don't pass through the board. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of DW Holtman
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 6:21 PM
To: Paul Ledbetter; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser


Paul,

I just ran into the same problem, what I came up with can be seen on the 
link below. Hope this helps.

http://www.heavymetalradios.com/

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Ledbetter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser


> Hello!
> I am building the K2, and have reached the point where
> I am installing the LCD Backlight diffuser...the leads
> are about 1/8 of an inch long.  I am supposed to put
> two spacers under the diffuser, and then solder it in place...has
> anyone else had the problem of leads too short?  What is the solution 
> to this...did Elecraft send out a few with too short of leads?  Am I 
> missing something?
> Thanks!
> WB0MZT
>
>
> 
> __
> __
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[Elecraft] Re: Calling the ELECRAFT Users Groups on SSB starting Sunday

[KM5Q]

Today was an big contest day, so results were limited, but we did give  
the Sunday net a go.


Check-ins on 14.235, Sunday March 2, 2100-2142 UTC were:

WA7BOC  Roger
KM5Q  Windy
N8GU  Bob
WA6OCP  Neal  K3 running 10W
W4WFB  Roy  K3
WB8YQJ  Don  K3

Windy and Bob had a useful conversation about roofing filters, but  
contest QRM was too much.


About the Sunday frequency -- We propose now to move to 14.325. Less  
contesters and DX'ers in that higher part of the band. Again, I  
checked the ARRL net list and I don't see conflicts. If you have  
better info, please let us know--today was not a day to check for net  
activities.


So here's a new draft of the net schedule, with ONLY the 20m (pending)  
frequency changed.


Thanks all!

Windy KM5Q
Santa Fe, NM


- ELECRAFT USERS GROUP ON SSB 
  SECOND DRAFT SCHEDULE - March 2, 2008

MONDAY & THURSDAY EVENINGS  (day according to local time N. America)
starting 0200 UTC  (9PM EST / 6PM PST)  until ?
7.185 MHz

SUNDAY AFTERNOONS
2100 UTC  (4PM EST / 1PM PST)  to 2300 UTC
14.325 MHz

PROCEDURE:
Listen +/- 5 kHz. If nobody's there, call "CQ Elecraft Users Group".  
When
identifying, add "in the Elecraft Users Group" frequently, to help  
others

find us.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Squelch Function

[Mike N8XPQ]

Well that clears it up and makes sense too. I thought I was going crazy!

Thanks for the clarification and quick response.

Mike N8XPQ


Joe Stofko-2 wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mike, 
> 
>   You wrote:
>   Am I missing something? I can not seem to enable the "squelch"
> function in
> the menu.  
> 
> Nope, you are not missing anything. The squelch feature is not
> yet enabled in firmware. I do not know if it will be an "all-mode"
> squelch, but I expect it will not be available, at all, until FM is 
> enabled. 
> 
> 73, 
> Joe - W1AIU
> 
> 
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> 


-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Squelch-Function-tp15795085p15797034.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Squelch Function

[Joe Stofko]

Hi Mike, 

You wrote:
Am I missing something? I can not seem to enable the "squelch"
function in
the menu.  

Nope, you are not missing anything. The squelch feature is not
yet enabled in firmware. I do not know if it will be an "all-mode"
squelch, but I expect it will not be available, at all, until FM is 
enabled. 

73, 
Joe - W1AIU


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Setting up for PSK and other digitalmodes

[Greg]

Bill,

I'm using a similar setup and I don't notice any issues.  Though I've not
used FSK441 before.

I have a MicroHam MK2R+ connected to the K3 and it also has built-in sound
codecs with transformers.  Works fine for AFSK and PSK.

73
Greg
AB7R

-Original Message-
From: Bill W5WVO [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 6:28 PM
To: Greg; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Setting up for PSK and other
digitalmodes


Nice summary, thanks Greg. I'll be using the K3 digitally for the WSJT modes
on 6 meters, among others. Here's a question that occurred to me today:

I am probably going to be using the SignaLink USB (built-in sound card /
codex). This unit also has built-in 600-ohm isolation transformers -- as
does
the K3. Is there any problem presented by having two sets of transformers in
the line? I worry that if the quality of both transformers isn't really
good,
the transformers could introduce nonlinear delay or amplitude
characteristics,
especially in modes like FSK441 which use a fairly wide range of audio
frequencies. I'm sure the K3 transformers are the best, but I know nothing
about the SignaLink -- and having two transformers in each line concerns me
a
little.

Bill W5WVO


Greg wrote:
> Setting up your K3 for PSK (and other audio-based digital modes)
>
> The K3 is an outstanding platform for operating digital modes.  It
> already has dedicated direct FSK and PSK with your CW paddles.  But
> there is also an option to use Data-A mode to operate PSK or any
> other audio based digital mode in conjunction with soundcard-based
> digital mode software.
>
> It is usually best to use a second soundcard for your audio-base
> digital modes.  This way you will not be plagued with Windows sound
> effects in your waterfall or in your transmitted signal.  If you do
> not have that option, you can always go into your Windows control
> panel and open "Sounds and Audio devices."  Select the Sounds tab and
> set Sound Scheme to No Sounds.
>
> Here are the steps to setup for PSK using Data-A mode:
>
> 1.  Set your soundcard volume to about 50%.
>
> 2.  Connect soundcard output to the K3 LINE-IN.
>
> 3.  Connect the soundcard input to the K3 LINE-OUT.
>
> 4.  Set Menu item MIC SEL to LINE IN.  The K3 will remember this MIC
> SEL source next time you use digital modes.
>
> 5.  Set mode to DATA. HOLD DATA MD to choose Data-A using the VFO B
> knob.
>
> 6.  Set power to ~20W (just something to start with).
>
> 7.  Use the MIC control to set the drive level so that your output is
> equal or just below what you dialed in (20W in this case).
> Compression is locked at zero automatically when in Data mode and
> cannot be adjusted.  You should not see any ALC bars on the K3
> display (when set to CMP/ALC).  When setup this way I get excellent
> PSK31 results with TX IMD at ~ -26 dB to -32 dB - a very clean signal.
>
> FOR PTT
>
> You can use a separate line for PTT from a computer COM port to the
> ACCY connector or the RCA PTT connection on the back of the K3.  This
> requires a simple circuit using a transistor and resistor between the
> COM port and the K3.  You can find this circuit on many ham radio
> websites, including the AA5AU RTTY website (this will be a hyperlink
> to http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html ).  You can also use the
> RS-232 serial connection if your software allows you to set it up
> that way.  Not all software allows you to do this.  Some programs
> will also allow PTT via CAT command.
>
> In the K3 CONFIG menu, set PTT-Key to either RTS - OFF or DTR - OFF.
> Then in your software set PTT to either DTR or RTS as appropriate to
> the same COM port the radio is connected to.
>
>
>
> 
> 73,
> Greg - AB7R
> Whidbey Island WA
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Setting up for PSK and other digitalmodes

[Bill W5WVO]

Nice summary, thanks Greg. I'll be using the K3 digitally for the WSJT modes 
on 6 meters, among others. Here's a question that occurred to me today:


I am probably going to be using the SignaLink USB (built-in sound card / 
codex). This unit also has built-in 600-ohm isolation transformers -- as does 
the K3. Is there any problem presented by having two sets of transformers in 
the line? I worry that if the quality of both transformers isn't really good, 
the transformers could introduce nonlinear delay or amplitude characteristics, 
especially in modes like FSK441 which use a fairly wide range of audio 
frequencies. I'm sure the K3 transformers are the best, but I know nothing 
about the SignaLink -- and having two transformers in each line concerns me a 
little.


Bill W5WVO


Greg wrote:

Setting up your K3 for PSK (and other audio-based digital modes)

The K3 is an outstanding platform for operating digital modes.  It
already has dedicated direct FSK and PSK with your CW paddles.  But
there is also an option to use Data-A mode to operate PSK or any
other audio based digital mode in conjunction with soundcard-based
digital mode software.

It is usually best to use a second soundcard for your audio-base
digital modes.  This way you will not be plagued with Windows sound
effects in your waterfall or in your transmitted signal.  If you do
not have that option, you can always go into your Windows control
panel and open "Sounds and Audio devices."  Select the Sounds tab and
set Sound Scheme to No Sounds.

Here are the steps to setup for PSK using Data-A mode:

1.  Set your soundcard volume to about 50%.

2.  Connect soundcard output to the K3 LINE-IN.

3.  Connect the soundcard input to the K3 LINE-OUT.

4.  Set Menu item MIC SEL to LINE IN.  The K3 will remember this MIC
SEL source next time you use digital modes.

5.  Set mode to DATA. HOLD DATA MD to choose Data-A using the VFO B
knob.

6.  Set power to ~20W (just something to start with).

7.  Use the MIC control to set the drive level so that your output is
equal or just below what you dialed in (20W in this case).
Compression is locked at zero automatically when in Data mode and
cannot be adjusted.  You should not see any ALC bars on the K3
display (when set to CMP/ALC).  When setup this way I get excellent
PSK31 results with TX IMD at ~ -26 dB to -32 dB - a very clean signal.

FOR PTT

You can use a separate line for PTT from a computer COM port to the
ACCY connector or the RCA PTT connection on the back of the K3.  This
requires a simple circuit using a transistor and resistor between the
COM port and the K3.  You can find this circuit on many ham radio
websites, including the AA5AU RTTY website (this will be a hyperlink
to http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html ).  You can also use the
RS-232 serial connection if your software allows you to set it up
that way.  Not all software allows you to do this.  Some programs
will also allow PTT via CAT command.

In the K3 CONFIG menu, set PTT-Key to either RTS - OFF or DTR - OFF.
Then in your software set PTT to either DTR or RTS as appropriate to
the same COM port the radio is connected to.




73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser

[DW Holtman]

Paul,

I just ran into the same problem, what I came up with can be seen on the 
link below. Hope this helps.


http://www.heavymetalradios.com/

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Ledbetter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser



Hello!
I am building the K2, and have reached the point where
I am installing the LCD Backlight diffuser...the leads
are about 1/8 of an inch long.  I am supposed to put
two spacers under the diffuser, and then solder it in
place...has anyone else had the problem of leads too
short?  What is the solution to this...did Elecraft
send out a few with too short of leads?  Am I missing
something?
Thanks!
WB0MZT




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[Elecraft] K2 LCD Diffuser

[Paul Ledbetter]

Hello!
I am building the K2, and have reached the point where
I am installing the LCD Backlight diffuser...the leads
are about 1/8 of an inch long.  I am supposed to put
two spacers under the diffuser, and then solder it in
place...has anyone else had the problem of leads too
short?  What is the solution to this...did Elecraft
send out a few with too short of leads?  Am I missing
something?
Thanks!
WB0MZT


  

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Re: [Elecraft] Appalachian Trail on Sunday

[Ron Polityka]

Hello,

Today was a Great day out on the Appalachian Trail. My brother, Rick and I 
drove to Rte 501 just north of Bethel, PA. There was no snow on the ground 
as we were driving up the mountain. This was my brothers first hike with me 
out on the Appalachian Trail and my radio gear. He asked me how heavy was my 
backpack, I handed it over to him and he said wow, about 40 to 45 lbs. I 
said yep.We  started to hike to the Round Head Lookout. As soon as we 
stepped onto the trail we had 3 to 6 inches of snow covered trail with no 
other prints in the snow. It was a Great hike to Round Head Lookout which is 
a 3.1 mile hike up and down ravines and mountains. This is a very rocky 
trail and the ice under the snow powder made it a little more difficult.


After a 1 hour and 20 minutes hike we arriver at Round Head Lookout. What a 
great view looking over the valley. I hiked back up the trail a little to 
gain some elevation. Rick followed me back up the trail and he said that he 
wants to see exactly what I do out on the AT. So I proceeded to set up my K1 
with the BWV (Black Widow Vertical). I first started calling CQ on 40m but 
the bad just did not seem to have any activity. Rick went to explore the 
area, this was his first time in this area. I went over to calling CQ on 
20m. Wow, I had 5 Great QSO's on the band in the next hour. I worked the 
following stations:


WB0BRO Ernie in SD
K5MMH Mike in TX
W0SD Ed in SD
W3EEK/4 Carl in FL
W4DEC Larry in AL

I got my SD station twofold on this trip. Now I need to work HI and MT for 
WAS from the AT. The 5 QSO's today places my QSO count from March 2000 at 
926 QSO with 48 States and 24 Countries.


I know there were some stations that were calling me but the QSB was very 
deep at times. I will be back out on the AT again in March. Just finished 
checking into the 20m and 40m net for Elecraft from home. I promised Kevin 
that I will camp out over night one time and check into the ECN from the 
Appalachian Trail this spring.


Thanks to those 926 stations that made a QSO with me over the past 8 years!! 
It has been a real trip.


72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392

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[Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Setting up for PSK and other digital modes

[Greg]

Setting up your K3 for PSK (and other audio-based digital modes)

The K3 is an outstanding platform for operating digital modes.  It already
has dedicated direct FSK and PSK with your CW paddles.  But there is also an
option to use Data-A mode to operate PSK or any other audio based digital
mode in conjunction with soundcard-based digital mode software.

It is usually best to use a second soundcard for your audio-base digital
modes.  This way you will not be plagued with Windows sound effects in your
waterfall or in your transmitted signal.  If you do not have that option,
you can always go into your Windows control panel and open “Sounds and Audio
devices.”  Select the Sounds tab and set Sound Scheme to No Sounds.

Here are the steps to setup for PSK using Data-A mode:

1.  Set your soundcard volume to about 50%.

2.  Connect soundcard output to the K3 LINE-IN.

3.  Connect the soundcard input to the K3 LINE-OUT.

4.  Set Menu item MIC SEL to LINE IN.  The K3 will remember this MIC SEL
source next time you use digital modes.

5.  Set mode to DATA. HOLD DATA MD to choose Data-A using the VFO B knob.

6.  Set power to ~20W (just something to start with).

7.  Use the MIC control to set the drive level so that your output is equal
or just below what you dialed in (20W in this case). Compression is locked
at zero automatically when in Data mode and cannot be adjusted.  You should
not see any ALC bars on the K3 display (when set to CMP/ALC).  When setup
this way I get excellent PSK31 results with TX IMD at ~ -26 dB to -32 dB - a
very clean signal.

FOR PTT

You can use a separate line for PTT from a computer COM port to the ACCY
connector or the RCA PTT connection on the back of the K3.  This requires a
simple circuit using a transistor and resistor between the COM port and the
K3.  You can find this circuit on many ham radio websites, including the
AA5AU RTTY website (this will be a hyperlink to
http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html ).  You can also use the RS-232
serial connection if your software allows you to set it up that way.  Not
all software allows you to do this.  Some programs will also allow PTT via
CAT command.

In the K3 CONFIG menu, set PTT-Key to either RTS - OFF or DTR - OFF. Then in
your software set PTT to either DTR or RTS as appropriate to the same COM
port the radio is connected to.




73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA



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[Elecraft] K3 Squelch Function

[Mike N8XPQ]

Am I missing something? I can not seem to enable the "squelch" function in
the menu. The setting shows
SQ Main --. It seems that I am unable to change this feature. Has anyone
else discovered this?



-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Squelch-Function-tp15787455p15787455.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Test message

[Mike N8XPQ]

Test message

-
Mike Koetje N8XPQ
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Test-message-tp15794872p15794872.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Problem

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Yep, known problem with latest firmware - fixed before and came back -
Elecraft are aware and working on fix.
See 


And I see that Greg has put an update in the Wiki to note the fix will be
released soon. Great Greg and thanks very much for both the fix and noting
in Wiki.

On 02/03/2008 22:22, "Steve Zumbrun" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> When I am using VOX in SSB mode using headphones and I engage the NR feature
> my speaker cycles on and off.  This happens when using the F1-4 NR settings
> and goes away as I make the NR settings more sever (ie., F2 to 4-4).  Anyone
> else notice this?  I think it mignt be since I downloaded the latest
> firmware UC 01.69.  Best 73, Steve W0SZ.
> 
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-- 
We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we
created them. -Albert Einstein, physicist, Nobel laureate (1879-1955)


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Problem

[Ed Muns]

> When I am using VOX in SSB mode using headphones and I engage 
> the NR feature my speaker cycles on and off.  This happens 
> when using the F1-4 NR settings and goes away as I make the 
> NR settings more sever (ie., F2 to 4-4).  Anyone else notice 
> this?  I think it mignt be since I downloaded the latest 
> firmware UC 01.69.  Best 73, Steve W0SZ.

Yes.  It's been fixed in the release being tested now.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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[Elecraft] K3 Problem

[Steve Zumbrun]

When I am using VOX in SSB mode using headphones and I engage the NR feature 
my speaker cycles on and off.  This happens when using the F1-4 NR settings 
and goes away as I make the NR settings more sever (ie., F2 to 4-4).  Anyone 
else notice this?  I think it mignt be since I downloaded the latest 
firmware UC 01.69.  Best 73, Steve W0SZ. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problems

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

John, please do let us know, since I'll put the resolution in the K3 Wiki


On 02/03/2008 20:15, "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> I am receiving off reflector mails in re to my problem. I know others
> may be interested in the out come and or final resolution, even if
> it's due to a short between the headsets. 50 years of hamming, and
> it's still a challenge and fun.
> 
> At 08:54 AM 02/03/08, you wrote:
>> Has anybody on the list seen either of these problems. This is a
>> copy of what I sent to the service dept.
>> 
>> received K3/10 kit on Feb 28, Ser#501.
>> 
>> Assembly went well. I have assembled two K2's and a K1 with no
>> problems. I used an anti static mat and wrist band throughout assembly.
>> 
>> Problem#1
>> 
>> Upon power up, the K3 will not recognize the KAT3. I receive the ERR
>> IO1 msg. I removed the KAT3, powered up and did not get the ERR IO1
>> msg. Reinstalled the KAT3, power up,  get the ERR IO1 msg. I went
>> through the configuration steps, no help. I tried switching between
>> ant 1&2, and received a ATU not installed msg. Assume a faulty KAT3?
>> 
>> Problem#2
>> 
>> This one is a booger. I have a horrible S8 to S9 plus noise (sounds
>> like line noise), at various places throughout the 1.8 to at least
>> 25 mhz. It shows up on the 160 thru 40 hams bands, misses 30M, shows
>> up again on 20M and 17M, misses 15M, shows up on 12M, clean on 10
>> &6M. Using a non metallic tuning tool, if I put pressure on the
>> little mixer board I can cause it to go away or change. The
>> sensitive area is the component, looks like a transistor, three
>> leads, that looks like a pop rivet in the center. lower left on the
>> board when looking in from the front. I can't read a component
>> number on the board. If I put pressure on this component I can cause
>> the noise to go away, or shift off the freq I'm listening to. I
>> removed, inspected, and reinstalled the mixer board a couple of
>> times, no change. The noise must be being generated prior to the
>> roofing filters because changing the filters has effect on the
>> noise, DSP does too.
>> 
>> There are no external antenna connections, the only connection to
>> the K3 is the power. The PS is a Astron and it powers my K2's and
>> K1, so it's not PS noise.
>> 
>> If you want, I can phone you and let you listen to the noise.
>> 
>> Did I get the lemon?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> John
>> k7up
>> K3, almost, maybe
>> K2's 2012, 2223
>> K1 637
>> Things are more like they are now then they've ever been before.
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-- 
Cats know exactly how we feel.  They don't give a damnŠ
but they know.


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Re: [Elecraft] Reverse ALC

[Björn Mohr]

On 080229 18:30 , "Jerry Flanders" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> At 01:33 PM 2/23/2008, Björn Mohr wrote:
>> I am looking for a simple solution to reverse the K3 ALC input to a negative
>> going ALC circuit. If you have interfaced your K3 with any amp using
>> negative ALC, please let me know your solution.
> 
> Hi Björn
> 
> I haven't seen any reply to your question posted yet.

I have not received any solution in private either, but quite a few asked me
to share any information received so there seems to be  need for it.

> The question of the ALC compatibility has come up
> before. Elecraft have promised that they will
> provide a solution soon. See their K3 FAQ at
> http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm
> , where they state: "Once ALC is working to our
> satisfaction, we'll provide simple interfacing
> information that will allow the use of negative
> control voltages (probably a resistive divider
> pulled up to a positive supply, or at most an op-amp circuit)."
> 
> So you might want to query Elecraft directly to
> see if this design is complete yet.

Yes, now I remember now seeing that. I will send a request to support if
nothing show up here in a few days.

73 de Björn /SM0MDG




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Re: [Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas

[T. David Yarnes]

Keith and All,

Like you, I had pretty good success with my Outbacker.  I 
used it for years with a mag-mount on top of my vehicles, 
and it worked well.  It took a lot of abuse too.  Now, it's 
not equal to many of the bigger screwdriver types, or the 
Bug Catcher, etc., but given it's somewhat compromise design 
I thought it was a good antenna.  I never tried to use it as 
a portable antenna though, and I don't think that would be 
as good as something like the PAC-12 or MP-1 systems.  Those 
systems are more versatile, in that you can add sections, 
etc.  The MP-1 makes a good mobile antenna in a pinch. 
Actually, it performs pretty darn good as one.


My Outbacker model was the Perth, and that is longer than 
several other Outbacker models.  I've heard that the shorter 
models seem to not work as well.  Possibly that is what the 
other person was using.  I don't think Outbackers have 
faired particularly well in shoot-outs, etc., but it worked 
as good as my Hustlers did, and several other types.  But 
I've since changed to a Tarheel, and I like that better.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Keith Bainbridge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas


Just a quick word to say  totally disagree with KK5F's 
comments about the Outbacker antennas.
I and many of my club mates use them on a daily basis and 
they certainly do work.
I am mobile at work and consistantly get excellent reports 
using my Outbacker on 40 and 20 mtrs over a 500-800 mile 
path from my Mitsi outlander with 100w and a TS 50.
I also have had many DX contacts on 20 and 15 mtrs while 
driving around Western Australia.
Just cos you have had no luck dont paint the antenna 
black. Many many people use them daily and get excellent 
results, including Police, Army, and Emergency Services.
It even may have saved a life once as it has the RFDS ( 
Royal flying doctor service) tap and I was able to call 
for help with a heart attack patient.

I also have a Tarheel 200HP and that works well too.
I'm surprised you made such a categoric statement about 
how bad the Outbacker was.
I will send your comments to Terry at Outbacker ( only 10 
miles from here ) for his consideration.

Maybe he will contact you.
probably not.
73
Keith

--
Keith VK6XH / VK6DXR
Secretary Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Narrowing the filters on SSB

[Ed Muns]

> Does reducing bandwidth using the Hi and Lo cut invoke any 
> roofing filters as the appropriate bandwidth  is reached?

Yes, whenever the DSP filter settings result in a bandwidth equal to the
next narrowest crystal filter, that narrower crystal filter kicks in.
That's why reducing HI CUT works so well.  As HI CUT is reduced, so is the
bandwidth, but also Fc (the filter center frequency) is kept centered in the
pass band.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Narrowing the filters on SSB

[David Cutter]

Does reducing bandwidth using the Hi and Lo cut invoke any roofing filters 
as the appropriate bandwidth  is reached?



David
G3UNA 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problems

[John]

I am receiving off reflector mails in re to my problem. I know others 
may be interested in the out come and or final resolution, even if 
it's due to a short between the headsets. 50 years of hamming, and 
it's still a challenge and fun.


At 08:54 AM 02/03/08, you wrote:
Has anybody on the list seen either of these problems. This is a 
copy of what I sent to the service dept.


received K3/10 kit on Feb 28, Ser#501.

Assembly went well. I have assembled two K2's and a K1 with no 
problems. I used an anti static mat and wrist band throughout assembly.


Problem#1

Upon power up, the K3 will not recognize the KAT3. I receive the ERR 
IO1 msg. I removed the KAT3, powered up and did not get the ERR IO1 
msg. Reinstalled the KAT3, power up,  get the ERR IO1 msg. I went 
through the configuration steps, no help. I tried switching between 
ant 1&2, and received a ATU not installed msg. Assume a faulty KAT3?


Problem#2

This one is a booger. I have a horrible S8 to S9 plus noise (sounds 
like line noise), at various places throughout the 1.8 to at least 
25 mhz. It shows up on the 160 thru 40 hams bands, misses 30M, shows 
up again on 20M and 17M, misses 15M, shows up on 12M, clean on 10 
&6M. Using a non metallic tuning tool, if I put pressure on the 
little mixer board I can cause it to go away or change. The 
sensitive area is the component, looks like a transistor, three 
leads, that looks like a pop rivet in the center. lower left on the 
board when looking in from the front. I can't read a component 
number on the board. If I put pressure on this component I can cause 
the noise to go away, or shift off the freq I'm listening to. I 
removed, inspected, and reinstalled the mixer board a couple of 
times, no change. The noise must be being generated prior to the 
roofing filters because changing the filters has effect on the 
noise, DSP does too.


There are no external antenna connections, the only connection to 
the K3 is the power. The PS is a Astron and it powers my K2's and 
K1, so it's not PS noise.


If you want, I can phone you and let you listen to the noise.

Did I get the lemon?



John
k7up
K3, almost, maybe
K2's 2012, 2223
K1 637
Things are more like they are now then they've ever been before. 
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[Elecraft] K3 Narrowing the filters on SSB

[Tony Fegan VE3QF]

Hi Don,

   Thanks for the reply. I do use the Hi-Cut for reducing from 2.7KHz 
to about 1.8KHz with no problem. When you go much narrower the 
intelligence is improved by raising the low cut frequency (especially 
with low side QRM). Now you have to juggle with the Lo and Hi-Cut to 
squeeze out the maximum intelligence. I would have preferred positive 
detent style encoders for these controls.
   A firmware change (SSB) to move the filter centre frequency down as 
the "Width" control is reduced would mean this can be accomplished with 
one knob. I understand this is being considered.
   The present Lo-Cut step is a little coarse. I would prefer a step 
size of 50Hz. This is important when you get close to 500Hz on very 
narrow bandwidths. A low-Cut of 450Hz is still copyable but at 500Hz 
there is a big reduction in intelligibility. Of course, voice 
characteristics and your own ears make a big difference too.
   It is possible to shift the steps by 50Hz but you have to move the 
width control by 100Hz to do it.
   Part of my problem is that I have poor eyesight and not much feeling 
in the tips of my fingers. When I make an adjustment, the display has 
gone back to VFO before I can read it.. The processor between my 
ears is an old model with not much memory.. A while back, I used to 
have senior moments but not any more.. Now I have non-senior moments 
and unfortunately not too many of those.! But the main thing is we 
still have fun and the K3 sure helps in a big way in that department.


73
   Tony Fegan VE3QF

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Tony,

To reduce the width on SSB, try just using Hi Cut instead of the width 
and shift controls.  Normally when reducing the SSB filter width, the 
low end should be near 300 Hz (the K3 uses 250 by default). Keeping 
the low frequency corner of the SSB filter fixed at 350 to 300 Hz 
preserves intelligibility as the highs are reduced with the Hi Cut 
control - try it, you might like it better than fussing with the Width 
and Shift controls - I do it that way all the time, no need to adjust 
the low end unless the filter is VERY narrow (less than 1400 Hz = Hi 
Cut at 1650 Hz)


73,
Don W3FPR

Tony Fegan VE3QF wrote:
   I am eagerly awaiting the firmware change that will shift the 
filter centre (on SSB) as it is narrowed. This will make the filter 
adjustment on SSB way more convenient.







Don Wilhelm wrote:

Tony,

To reduce the width on SSB, try just using Hi Cut instead of the width 
and shift controls.  Normally when reducing the SSB filter width, the 
low end should be near 300 Hz (the K3 uses 250 by default). Keeping 
the low frequency corner of the SSB filter fixed at 350 to 300 Hz 
preserves intelligibility as the highs are reduced with the Hi Cut 
control - try it, you might like it better than fussing with the Width 
and Shift controls - I do it that way all the time, no need to adjust 
the low end unless the filter is VERY narrow (less than 1400 Hz = Hi 
Cut at 1650 Hz)


73,
Don W3FPR

Tony Fegan VE3QF wrote:
   I am eagerly awaiting the firmware change that will shift the 
filter centre (on SSB) as it is narrowed. This will make the filter 
adjustment on SSB way more convenient.







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[Elecraft] K2- more on more on solinoidal chokes

[Jack]

Thanks to everyone who offered advice regarding subminiture inductors.

I'll use the miniature one instead, as seems to have become common practise. 
Maybe there's a line in the builders alerts pages I didn't read. If there 
isn't, there ought to be.


And isn't this reflector a fantastic resource of information. Every kit 
should have one of these :o)


73
Jack VK2CJC / MM0AXL
FISTS #9666 - CW QRP Club #753 - Elecraft K2 #6404
Mid North Coast Amateur Radio Group  www.mncarg.org

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[Elecraft] K2 CW pitch while listenign to other hams during part II alignment and test

[Nancy and Bob Widmaier]

How do I adjust the K2 CW pitch while listening to other hams during part II 
alignment and test?

73,

Bob Widmaier
K3JOP

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[Elecraft] data modes

[Blachura]

Hello ,
Well my brain must have a little rust on it Couldn't figure out the psk
connetion setup. So posted a couple help messages on the site. Got great
help from several folks.
Did what they suggested and still was scrathing my head. So left the shack
for a while had lunch and came back and started from scratch. Duh had
the transmit cable in the wrong hole on the sound card. Between my eye site
and computer being on the floor, was an easy miss. Now all is working great!
And thanks again for all the help guys.  

Don...w2xb
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/data-modes-tp15792268p15792268.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K2 Receive frequency duriing part II alignment and test

[Nancy and Bob Widmaier]

How do I adjust the tune frequency of my K2 to be the same as the frequency of 
my 746PRO during part II alignment and test?

73,

Bob Widmaier
K3JOP

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[Elecraft] [OT] Rework Eliminator(TM) K2 Internal Mic Adaptor App Note

[Gary Hvizdak]

Please pardon this OT bandwidth.  We have posted the following message to
our unpcbs(TM) Yahoo! Group but realize that most of our customers are not
members of that group.  Since we don't maintain a separate customer mailing
list, we are duplicate posting here to alert our customers of an important
new app note.

TNX,
Gary  KI4GGX
unpcbs.com webmaster



If you installed our K2 Internal Mic Adaptor (IMA) prior to January 2008,
please see http://www.unpcbs.com/notes/#note-4 for an important application
note regarding its installation.



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[Elecraft] K2 IF Amplifier allignment birdie lacking and alternative tuning

[Nancy and Bob Widmaier]

I tried to find the MHz birdie and could not hear it. Perhaps it was below the 
noise level.  I could not observe any change on a DMM when adjusting L34.  Is 
there any other way to hear the birdie?  I tuned L34 for the maximum signal 
strength of a 7.03 Mhz cw ham signal.  Will this work; or is there a better way 
not having a signal generator?

73,

Bob Widmaier
K3JOP

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Datamodes

[Greg]

This will be posted on the Operating tips page on the Elecraft website
today.

Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ian J Maude
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 3:00 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Datamodes


Hi all,
I am pretty much a datamodes virgin here but I want to get more into it.
Am I right in saying that I can use RTTY and PSK31 by simply selecting
DATA A as my mode?  I do not need the inbuilt decode function as HRD
will handle all of that.  What else if anything should I be looking to
do when setting up for TX?  I have the K3 operating through a second
soundcard to minimise the chances of Windows sounds being transmitted
etc.  The receive seems fine.

Any hints would be appreciated.

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study

[Greg]

Not a feature.  :)  Do you want it to be?  :)

It's on the list to fix.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 4:54 AM
To: T. David Yarnes
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study


Dave:

Thanks for your thoughts/suggestion!

I've been using this method for decades (but obviously, still willing
to try a new approach) and yet again, I have demonstrated that for the
vast majority of cases, there is simply no faster way to get to a
previously unknown discrete frequency than by using the keypad entry
method.

The auto-erasure of the SPLIT function when using the keypad entry
method is, in my opinion, something to be addressed (aka corrected?)
and I've sent this request to K3Support.  Maybe it's a "feature."  :-)

de Doug KR2Q

On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 3:58 AM, T. David Yarnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Doug and All,
>
>  What do you get when you use the RIT control method?  Set
>  the menu item "VFO OFS" to "On", and you can make some of
>  those excursions much faster than your time, but not the
>  really extended ones.  But you can't use that control if you
>  are also using the RIT/XIT.
>
>  Dave W7AQK
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[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines - March 2, 2008

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Elecraft Mail LIST GUIDELINES

For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have
rapidly failing memories..), here is a quick list of things to remember when
posting to this list. Please save this for future reference.

The most important thing to remember is that this is only a hobby - Let's
have fun!


1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is
done to stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent
to elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it
shows as subscribers will be rejected.

This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you use an
alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too.
Subscribing with [EMAIL PROTECTED] from your physical address of
[EMAIL PROTECTED] will allow you to receive postings, but your postings to
the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not
match your subscribe address..

Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to
change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list
preferences (digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page
and log in with your subscribed email address and the password that was sent
to you by email when you subscribed (and monthly afterwards.)


2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large
file for use on the list, first post it to your personal web
page and then post a link to its address in an email to the list. The list
strips all attachments to prevent viruses from propagating and to keep
the archives at a reasonable size.


3. Please keep the amount of copied text from previous posts to an
-ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies. Always delete -everything-  from the prior
post except what is necessary to keep your reply in context. Most copied
messages can be reduced to one or two sentences to retain context. Remember to
delete the email list footer from the previous post and especially avoid
copying a long posting and adding 'Me Too!' or something similar. As the
number of users on this list grows (over 1500 now) we need to work to minimize
information overload... If a reply is -not- of interest to the list, just
reply directly to the posting party.


4. EMAIL OVERLOAD:
If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list,
You can view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web
format at: http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated
hourly and list postings by subject. Just click on the ones you are interested
into read. You can also set your list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery,
which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest.

You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a
single compilation each day.

To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to:
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Scroll to the bottom of the page to log into your preferences page and set
your mail options to 'no mail'.

4a. Please make an effort to keep list volume under control by resisting the
urge to post a comment on every long discussion thread (CW, Soldering etc.) With
close to 2,000 list subscribers volume can quickly get out of control if
everyone feels the need to comment. while we do not overly restrict the subject
matter on this list, please remember that its primary focus is on Elecraft
products, and their use. Many people rely on it for pointers on building and
troubleshooting their kits.

4b. *** [NEW] When emailing about a specific rig or option, please add the
rig/option name(s) to the first part of your email subject line. (K1, K2, K3,
KX1 etc.) This will be a huge help for those experiencing email overload and
will allow automatic filtering based on subject line.

Examples: "Subject: K3, Filter Options"
  "Subject: KX1, How to use ped portable?"
  "Subject: XG2, Wow! Its a big help.

5. *** IMPORTANT - PLEASE KEEP ALL POSTINGS CORDIAL.
Restrain the urge to email someone admonishing them about a posting.
The last thing we want to do is to scare anyone off the list. Overly aggressive
postings and negative comments about other posters only serves to scare away new
potential list members.  Waiting over night before hitting 'send' really helps
to put things in perspective..

If you have a complaint about someone or a thread please email it directly
to me ( eric(at)elecraft.com ) and I'll address it.

5a. Please do not post publicly or privately asking people to stop a particular
thread, no matter how long, off topic or repetitive it gets. Email me instead
;-) . I will step in when I feel it is necessary to end a thread.
(eric(at)elecraft.com)

5a1. Please exercise restraint in posting when a thread is getting heavily
covered. 30 posts on one topic in a day (like the recurring CW thread) is
usually excessive.

5b. Please do not post any direct attacks or

RE: [Elecraft] K3 vfo coarse/fine setting

[Greg]

When operating split, rather than using RIT/XIT I like to use:

A>B
Split
Then use the VFO A knob for your RX frequency.  You can also lock VFO B so
you don't accidentally loose the TX frequency.

But, yesterday I did add an item on our list for a menu entry for RIT/XIT
with two options:  1.  Use VFO tuning rate (as it is now); 2.  1-kHz steps

That will make it much easier when someone is specifically working up 1 or
up 2...etc.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 7:12 AM
To: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL; Crafters
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 vfo coarse/fine setting


How about being able to set a config param so that if you hit RIT (or XIT)
and then enter a number via the keypad, followed by enter (the AFX button),
it uses that as the offset. You could even enter values like 1.5. Only issue
is I can't think of a good way to enter a -ve offset.

Unless of course you hit RIT, turn knob one way or the other and then enter
a number. For +ve offset (most common) you could avoid the knob turn.


On 01/03/2008 18:18, "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Jim:
>
> Yes, I "discovered" the exact same thing, even though this is clearly
> spelled out in the manual.
>
> My suggestion:
>
> Rather than "dialing in" the split freq on 40m, do this:
>
> Switch to VFO B (vfo A/B button) and then ENTER the discrete frequency
> using the keypad.  I think you will find that for the majority of the
> cases, this is simply WAY faster than dialing it in.
>
> This is old news in terms of approach.  Way back when (20 years ago?)
> when we were using TS940's at a multi-multi, we had two rigs per band.
>  The guy next to me wanted to "dial in" the split qrg and complained
> about.  I simply did the keypad thing...and I beat him there every
> time...with room to spare.  It just just much, much faster than
> dialing in, unless the "new" QRG you're going to is just a few kc away
> from the last split QRG.
>
> Yes, it is true that you "stop hearing" the DX while you do this, but
> so what.  The important measurement is TOTAL TIME to be ready to call
> him - and it really serves no purpose to continue to hear the other
> guy if you can't call him any way (cuz ur not on his listening QRG
> yet).
>
> To be honest, during this weekend, I have been playing with the
> coarse/non-coarse button and "dialing in" just to see how it plays
> (I'm still learning the radio in terms of optimal efficiency for MY
> style of operation...and I'm not afraid to try different things).
> Actually, pushing the button to get to coarse, then dialing in, and
> then hitting  the button again (to get back to non-coarse) doesn't
> take that much time.  What DOES take time is then dialing in the last
> couple kc when back on non-coarse.  Direct keypad entry is really the
> only way to go for top efficiency.
>
> And I am NOT calling the button "coarse/fine" because we sure do NOT
> want to be in FINE MODE (1 HZ steps).  :-)
>
> Give it a try!
>
> de Doug KR2Q
> ___
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--
Patience serves as a protection against wrongs as clothes do against cold.
For if you put on more clothes as the cold increases, it will have no power
to hurt you.
So in like manner you must grow in patience when you meet with great wrongs,
and they will then be powerless to vex your mind.
-Leonardo da Vinci,  painter, engineer, musician, and scientist (1452-1519)


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[Elecraft] K2 VFO linearization

[Nancy and Bob Widmaier]

To K2 buiders,

I ran the VFO linearization.  The frequency displayed was varying between 
12,099.00 and 12,098.99 for approximately 13 minutes.  Then the frequency 
displayed was 12,085.41 (  a difference of 13.59 kHz) followed by d and then 
END.

Is this an acceptable linearization?  Should there have been more data points 
and should the test have run in less than 13 to 14 minutes?

73,

Bob Widmaier
K3JOP


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Re: [Elecraft] Is this comment necessary?

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ Elecraft]

Gentlemen,

Please do not personally attack or directly criticize other list 
members, or police the list.  Period.


As list moderator I try to moderate with a very light hand, but I -will- 
step in when an OT thread gets out of control or when the comments get 
personal. But I am not an arbiter of one person against another. Please 
remember that this is just a hobby and that we are all doing it for our 
personal enjoyment.


Don't post anything you would not be comfortable saying in a polite 
'face to face' meeting.  (Emphasis on the 'face to face' part..)  
Another good test is to ask yourself if you would be comfortable showing 
or sending your proposed posting to your children, wife, boss etc. That 
puts it in perspective eliminates 99% of  your unnecessary replies.


If your blood pressure has risen and you are upset about a posting,  
please apply the 'WOBR rule'. (Wait Overnight Before Replying... ;-)  
Most emotional replies look less attractive to you in the morning. And 
it is NEVER necessary for you to have the 'last word'.


The list guidelines specifically spell out what is acceptable to post. 
The bottom line: We are here to enjoy ourselves. Be polite.


I'll resend the guidelines in a moment.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ  
Elecraft List Moderator


_..._



Larry Putman wrote:

Consider the Source Thom the TROLL

 
Larry Putman WB3ANQ




- Original Message 
From: Rick Shindley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2008 2:09:46 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Is this comment necessary?

"One would think that since the mailing list is owned by Elecraft, they can 
police the listas we've seen several times when Eric has called for an
end to a 


particular thread."

 


Kind people,

 


What technical, ham radio-related or Elecraft-germane intelligence is
conveyed above? It seems only an indictment of Elecraft for not policing its
list better.  Perhaps if Elecraft would police its list more then THAT
cynical post would have been culled? And this one, too, one would think.

 


Rick

KC0OV

 


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Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility for Linux released

[Christopher Kovacs]

David Fleming wrote:

The Linux version of the K3 Utility has been released
and is available for download on the Elecraft web
site. 


___
  

Hi David,

I was able to "plug and play" using Ubuntu 7.10 (Gutsy) and the USB 
serial cable option (KUSB).  Since my K3 is newly constructed, my 
firmware is up to date.  The only thing I needed to install on Ubuntu, 
is "curl"; which was easy - "sudo apt-get install curl".


System info:
Linux otter 2.6.22-14-generic #1 SMP Tue Feb 12 02:46:46 UTC 2008 x86_64 
GNU/Linux


Very impressed!

Cheers,

Chris, 
w0anm  (irlp node 3106)

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Re: [Elecraft] Psk31 xmt

[G4ILO]

Blachura wrote:
> 
> Hello Folks,
> I have my K3 setup for digital modes. I am using mixw, can copy and change
> freqs using software and the K3. Now how do I setup transmit? Cables etc?
> 
> Don...w2xb
> 
A simple cable with 3.5mm jacks on either end from the line out on the sound
card to the line in on the back of the K3 should do it. See my posts earlier
today about how to set up the audio level.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Psk31-xmt-tp15788263p15790431.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

May I suggest you're reading more into KK5F's comments than he actually
said? 

He certainly did not say the Outbacker and similar antennas do not work. As
you point out, they are in use every day to make contacts. Mike said of
those antennas and similar designs that "...contacts can still be made using
the poorest of antenna systems."

That is very true! Mobile antennas, "ground coupled" antennas, indeed any
antenna that is small in terms of wavelengths is, by nature, very, very
inefficient! It's not unusual to see less than 5% of the RF applied to them
be radiated. Often it's much less than 1%.

What those antennas offer is the ability to operate mobile in motion or to
operate anywhere the equipment can be carried with very little setup time.
For that convenience they give up a huge amount of efficiency. Often that's
a good trade-off. 

To be really efficient without an extensive ground system (the fabled 120
radials, etc.) an end-fed antenna needs to be at least 1/2 wavelength long.
I'm not about to try to mount a 66 foot whip on my car so I can mobile
efficiently on 40 meters! I'll take the drastically lower efficiency of a
more reasonable antenna size and I'll make a lot of contacts even though my
effective radiated power (ERP) will be very low. The same is true in a lot
of portable situations. 

And, as Mike observed, these small antennas are not cheap. They can be among
the most expensive antennas one can buy short of a big tower. That
well-crafted portable design usually comes at a hefty price in addition to
very low efficiency. But, when properly done, it makes for an easy-to-set-up
portable radiator that many find worth the cost for the convenience. 

If one goes to just a little more effort to get a larger radiator up, the
improved signal from the greatly-increased efficiency are enormous. Like
Mike, I certainly would suggest a center-fed half-wave antenna for the use
that was stated: portable work while camping. If that's too much to deal
with, next I'd suggest an end-fed wire, 1/2 wave long if the tuner will
handle the high impedance, or as close as the tuner will handle - longer is
better - with a 1/4 wave "counterpoise". 

Either of those will produce a much, much stronger signal than a smaller
antenna, no matter whether it's a homebrew whip or a expensive commercial
product. 

But that doesn't mean that you can't make contacts with a lot less antenna. 

I often wince when I see people spend money on something that's expensive
without understanding why it's expensive. In the case of antennas, no amount
of money will make a small antenna work as efficiently as a larger antenna.
If the radiation efficiency is the primary goal, a wire tossed into a tree
with a 1/4 wave "counterpoise" near the ground will outperform any portable
"whip" antenna I've seen anywhere at any price. 

I'd be very astonished if Terry at Outbacker didn't agree! 

Ron AC7AC


 
-Original Message-


Just a quick word to say  totally disagree with KK5F's comments about 
the Outbacker antennas.
I and many of my club mates use them on a daily basis and they certainly 
do work.
I am mobile at work and consistantly get excellent reports using my 
Outbacker on 40 and 20 mtrs over a 500-800 mile path from my Mitsi 
outlander with 100w and a TS 50.
I also have had many DX contacts on 20 and 15 mtrs while driving around 
Western Australia.
Just cos you have had no luck dont paint the antenna black. Many many 
people use them daily and get excellent results, including Police, Army, 
and Emergency Services.
It even may have saved a life once as it has the RFDS ( Royal flying 
doctor service) tap and I was able to call for help with a heart attack 
patient.
I also have a Tarheel 200HP and that works well too.
I'm surprised you made such a categoric statement about how bad the 
Outbacker was.
I will send your comments to Terry at Outbacker ( only 10 miles from 
here ) for his consideration.
Maybe he will contact you.
probably not.
73
Keith

-- 
Keith 
VK6XH / VK6DXR
Secretary 
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problems

[Ken Wagner]

John:
If you sent this info to <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, I suspect that you 
will be hearing from someone very soon with help. If you didn't send it 
to that address, I suggest that you do.

73,
Ken K3IU
K3 #202

John wrote:
Has anybody on the list seen either of these problems. This is a copy 
of what I sent to the service dept.


received K3/10 kit on Feb 28, Ser#501.

Assembly went well. I have assembled two K2's and a K1 with no 
problems. I used an anti static mat and wrist band throughout assembly.


Problem#1

Upon power up, the K3 will not recognize the KAT3. I receive the ERR 
IO1 msg. I removed the KAT3, powered up and did not get the ERR IO1 
msg. Reinstalled the KAT3, power up,  get the ERR IO1 msg. I went 
through the configuration steps, no help. I tried switching between 
ant 1&2, and received a ATU not installed msg. Assume a faulty KAT3?


Problem#2

This one is a booger. I have a horrible S8 to S9 plus noise (sounds 
like line noise), at various places throughout the 1.8 to at least 25 
mhz. It shows up on the 160 thru 40 hams bands, misses 30M, shows up 
again on 20M and 17M, misses 15M, shows up on 12M, clean on 10 &6M. 
Using a non metallic tuning tool, if I put pressure on the little 
mixer board I can cause it to go away or change. The sensitive area is 
the component, looks like a transistor, three leads, that looks like a 
pop rivet in the center. lower left on the board when looking in from 
the front. I can't read a component number on the board. If I put 
pressure on this component I can cause the noise to go away, or shift 
off the freq I'm listening to. I removed, inspected, and reinstalled 
the mixer board a couple of times, no change. The noise must be being 
generated prior to the roofing filters because changing the filters 
has effect on the noise, DSP does too.


There are no external antenna connections, the only connection to the 
K3 is the power. The PS is a Astron and it powers my K2's and K1, so 
it's not PS noise.


If you want, I can phone you and let you listen to the noise.

Did I get the lemon?



John
k7up
K3, almost, maybe
K2's 2012, 2223
K1 637
Things are more like they are now then they've ever been before. 
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[Elecraft] K3 problems

[Don Rasmussen]

>> Did I get the lemon? John k7up <<

John, your joking, right? !!!

A "lemon" for those international types is generally a
mass produced item of such inferior production quality
that it can never be made 100% functional, and
attempts to remedy it's shortcomings generally result
in expense and frustration to the buyer.

Elecraft K3's radios are custom made at this time, and
the company stakes it's reputation on each and every
one. 

As the Aussies say - no worries Mate - or "Fair
dinkum" ;-)
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[Elecraft] K3 problems

[John]

Has anybody on the list seen either of these problems. This is a copy 
of what I sent to the service dept.


received K3/10 kit on Feb 28, Ser#501.

Assembly went well. I have assembled two K2's and a K1 with no 
problems. I used an anti static mat and wrist band throughout assembly.


Problem#1

Upon power up, the K3 will not recognize the KAT3. I receive the ERR 
IO1 msg. I removed the KAT3, powered up and did not get the ERR IO1 
msg. Reinstalled the KAT3, power up,  get the ERR IO1 msg. I went 
through the configuration steps, no help. I tried switching between 
ant 1&2, and received a ATU not installed msg. Assume a faulty KAT3?


Problem#2

This one is a booger. I have a horrible S8 to S9 plus noise (sounds 
like line noise), at various places throughout the 1.8 to at least 25 
mhz. It shows up on the 160 thru 40 hams bands, misses 30M, shows up 
again on 20M and 17M, misses 15M, shows up on 12M, clean on 10 &6M. 
Using a non metallic tuning tool, if I put pressure on the little 
mixer board I can cause it to go away or change. The sensitive area 
is the component, looks like a transistor, three leads, that looks 
like a pop rivet in the center. lower left on the board when looking 
in from the front. I can't read a component number on the board. If I 
put pressure on this component I can cause the noise to go away, or 
shift off the freq I'm listening to. I removed, inspected, and 
reinstalled the mixer board a couple of times, no change. The noise 
must be being generated prior to the roofing filters because changing 
the filters has effect on the noise, DSP does too.


There are no external antenna connections, the only connection to the 
K3 is the power. The PS is a Astron and it powers my K2's and K1, so 
it's not PS noise.


If you want, I can phone you and let you listen to the noise.

Did I get the lemon?



John
k7up
K3, almost, maybe
K2's 2012, 2223
K1 637
Things are more like they are now then they've ever been before. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vfo coarse/fine setting

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

How about being able to set a config param so that if you hit RIT (or XIT)
and then enter a number via the keypad, followed by enter (the AFX button),
it uses that as the offset. You could even enter values like 1.5. Only issue
is I can't think of a good way to enter a -ve offset.

Unless of course you hit RIT, turn knob one way or the other and then enter
a number. For +ve offset (most common) you could avoid the knob turn.


On 01/03/2008 18:18, "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Jim:
> 
> Yes, I "discovered" the exact same thing, even though this is clearly
> spelled out in the manual.
> 
> My suggestion:
> 
> Rather than "dialing in" the split freq on 40m, do this:
> 
> Switch to VFO B (vfo A/B button) and then ENTER the discrete frequency
> using the keypad.  I think you will find that for the majority of the
> cases, this is simply WAY faster than dialing it in.
> 
> This is old news in terms of approach.  Way back when (20 years ago?)
> when we were using TS940's at a multi-multi, we had two rigs per band.
>  The guy next to me wanted to "dial in" the split qrg and complained
> about.  I simply did the keypad thing...and I beat him there every
> time...with room to spare.  It just just much, much faster than
> dialing in, unless the "new" QRG you're going to is just a few kc away
> from the last split QRG.
> 
> Yes, it is true that you "stop hearing" the DX while you do this, but
> so what.  The important measurement is TOTAL TIME to be ready to call
> him - and it really serves no purpose to continue to hear the other
> guy if you can't call him any way (cuz ur not on his listening QRG
> yet).
> 
> To be honest, during this weekend, I have been playing with the
> coarse/non-coarse button and "dialing in" just to see how it plays
> (I'm still learning the radio in terms of optimal efficiency for MY
> style of operation...and I'm not afraid to try different things).
> Actually, pushing the button to get to coarse, then dialing in, and
> then hitting  the button again (to get back to non-coarse) doesn't
> take that much time.  What DOES take time is then dialing in the last
> couple kc when back on non-coarse.  Direct keypad entry is really the
> only way to go for top efficiency.
> 
> And I am NOT calling the button "coarse/fine" because we sure do NOT
> want to be in FINE MODE (1 HZ steps).  :-)
> 
> Give it a try!
> 
> de Doug KR2Q
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-- 
Patience serves as a protection against wrongs as clothes do against cold.
For if you put on more clothes as the cold increases, it will have no power
to hurt you.
So in like manner you must grow in patience when you meet with great wrongs,
and they will then be powerless to vex your mind.
-Leonardo da Vinci,  painter, engineer, musician, and scientist (1452-1519)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: coarse/fine for RIT

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

looks to me that if I pick RIT and then set COARSE & RATE, the RIT is
affected and a 1/2 turn moves 1kHz


On 01/03/2008 18:57, "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> I tell you what drives me nuts is the speed (or lack of) for the
> RIT/XIT.  While this is not linked to the coarse/fine button, it is
> linked to the VFO speed steps.  Gosh...I want the VFO speed the way I
> have it set, but I want the RIT speed set much faster.  If the guy
> says UP 1, it takes me over 2 fulls turns of the XIT knob to get there
> - yuck!   And if he say up 2...oh my - 5 turns.  :-(
> 
> On the plus side, I understand that the "fix" for this is also in the
> works (at least I hope so).
> 
> :-)
> 
> de Doug KR2Q
> 
> K3:  A great radio and only getting better.
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-- 
Why should I fear death? If I am, death is not. If death is, I am not. Why
should I fear that which cannot exist when I do?
-Epicurus, philosopher (c. 341-270 BCE)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Another one on order

[Peter G3MLO]

As a new Elecraft customer, 2 K3's on order I was pleased to read Eric's
recent post.
"Production will stay in the USA and we are well below the capacity of our
current line
and it is increasing output each month"
This is reassuring news and goes to show the commitment given to its
customers.
I have only been viewing the list for a few months and from the volume of
positive
posts I have read it looks like I shall have to find a new home for my
trusty Orion1
but maybe I need to feel the MOJO first, with 50 years of Amateur Radio
behind me
it is nice to be around to enjoy all that modern technology brings to our
wonderful hobby
Peter G3MLO

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Re%3A-K3---Another-one-on-order-tp15788801p15788801.html
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[Elecraft] Katiegram

[Hans H Vollmer]

I've got my Katiegram today:

start of delivery: 5-7 days
K3 Invoice:49087
Order date:07-18-2007

73 de Hans
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[Elecraft] Split and fast QSY settings

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi to the group from W0CZ K3 457
The Config settingVFO OFS - ON seems to do what the group wants.
Hold B-SET and the CLR knob will move B in a fast mode.
Turn off B-SET and it will move A in the fast mode.
I discovered this yesterday and now don't even use the RATE to change 
the VFO knob speed.

Play with it and you might like it.
73
Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] Mobile/portable antennas

[Keith Bainbridge]

Just a quick word to say  totally disagree with KK5F's comments about 
the Outbacker antennas.
I and many of my club mates use them on a daily basis and they certainly 
do work.
I am mobile at work and consistantly get excellent reports using my 
Outbacker on 40 and 20 mtrs over a 500-800 mile path from my Mitsi 
outlander with 100w and a TS 50.
I also have had many DX contacts on 20 and 15 mtrs while driving around 
Western Australia.
Just cos you have had no luck dont paint the antenna black. Many many 
people use them daily and get excellent results, including Police, Army, 
and Emergency Services.
It even may have saved a life once as it has the RFDS ( Royal flying 
doctor service) tap and I was able to call for help with a heart attack 
patient.

I also have a Tarheel 200HP and that works well too.
I'm surprised you made such a categoric statement about how bad the 
Outbacker was.
I will send your comments to Terry at Outbacker ( only 10 miles from 
here ) for his consideration.

Maybe he will contact you.
probably not.
73
Keith

--
Keith 
VK6XH / VK6DXR
Secretary 
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC

Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.

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[Elecraft] Psk31 xmt

[Blachura]

Hello Folks,
I have my K3 setup for digital modes. I am using mixw, can copy and change
freqs using software and the K3. Now how do I setup transmit? Cables etc?

Don...w2xb
-- 
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[Elecraft] Filter Presets I/II Response

[Roy Morris]

I would like to preset these filter settings and be able to come back to these 
presets.  Thanks for asking us.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter presets I/II: present and future functionality

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I understand that and I also guess quite a few would be - you have a very
valid point. how about not displaying either I or II if you move the
settings away from the preset?


On 02/03/2008 12:20, "Brett Howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> For the record I'm more for as few things blinking as possible unless
> its very necessary that action is taken.
> 
> 
> On Sun, 2008-03-02 at 11:14 +, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> 
>> I haven't used them much. I do tend to forget I'm modifying a config and
>> then of course, can't get back to it quickly. I find I'm pressing 'NORM' a
>> lot, so I think perhaps I would prefer to set this up with presets.
>> 
>> It's not clear to me how I would set these up per mode, I'd prefer to have 2
>> presets per mode and switch between them with a HOLD of I/II, and of course
>> just be able to move away from the preset with controls and get back to it
>> with a HOLD of I/II (I'm assuming you wouldn't want to change the TAP
>> function of I/II.
>> 
>> Here's how I see it might be done:
>> 
>> To use them :
>> Just a HOLD of I/II to switch to I or II depending upon where you start.
>> Then if you move away from that setting, by say reducing the width further,
>> a HOLD of I/II returns you to the preset you were using before you moved
>> away.
>> 
>> To indicate where your at:
>> Once a preset is chosen as above, either I or II is displayed.
>> If you then move away from that, I or II blinks, indicating you started
>> there, but have changed the settings slightly.
>> If you haven't set (and stored) a preset for a specific mode, I and II blink
>> alternately or neither show or perhaps the one or both not set flash very
>> rapidly. I don't expect this scenario would last long, since most people
>> would set up from day 1.
>> 
>> To set them, one of two scenarios:
>> 1. A long HOLD (like moving RIT to VFO) of I/II, followed by a press of
>> either the 1 or 2 button (on RH keypad)
>> or
>> 2. Start with either preset I or II, the one you wish to change. Make
>> changes as you wish and then a long HOLD of I/II
>> 
>> 
>> If you feel using TAP functionality of say I/II is acceptable, then HOLD
>> above becomes TAP and long HOLD becomes HOLD.
>> 
>> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
>> 
>>> On 29/02/2008 20:24, "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
>>> Before we make any changes, I'd like to know:
>>>- if you use presets at all
>>>- if you like the new proposal better (making them fixed)
>> 

-- 
Math Anxiety: an intense lifelong fear of two trains approaching each other
at speeds of 60 and 80 MPH. -Rick Bayan


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study

[DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL]

Dave:

Thanks for your thoughts/suggestion!

I've been using this method for decades (but obviously, still willing
to try a new approach) and yet again, I have demonstrated that for the
vast majority of cases, there is simply no faster way to get to a
previously unknown discrete frequency than by using the keypad entry
method.

The auto-erasure of the SPLIT function when using the keypad entry
method is, in my opinion, something to be addressed (aka corrected?)
and I've sent this request to K3Support.  Maybe it's a "feature."  :-)

de Doug KR2Q

On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 3:58 AM, T. David Yarnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Doug and All,
>
>  What do you get when you use the RIT control method?  Set
>  the menu item "VFO OFS" to "On", and you can make some of
>  those excursions much faster than your time, but not the
>  really extended ones.  But you can't use that control if you
>  are also using the RIT/XIT.
>
>  Dave W7AQK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 setting the oscillator on frequency in Europe

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

That's just great - I can net onto that just fine - I didn't know of these
stations and certainly do come through strong here - I guess 5kW would!

I've asked we put this on the Wiki and will do so if I get edit access to
the page.


On 02/03/2008 12:24, "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> The time and frequency station "RWM" from Moscow is very strong in
> Europe and for part of the hourly cycle puts out a plain carrier, making
> setting a K3 on frequency very easy for those who lack their own
> frequency standard. The frequencies and schedule can be found at:
> 
> http://www.irkutsk.com/radio/tis.htm
> 
> 73 Dave, G4AON
> K3/100 #80

-- 
Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored.
-Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963)


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[Elecraft] K3 setting the oscillator on frequency in Europe

[Dave G4AON]

The time and frequency station "RWM" from Moscow is very strong in 
Europe and for part of the hourly cycle puts out a plain carrier, making 
setting a K3 on frequency very easy for those who lack their own 
frequency standard. The frequencies and schedule can be found at:


http://www.irkutsk.com/radio/tis.htm

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter presets I/II: present and future functionality

[Björn Mohr]

On 080229 21:24 , "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Before we make any changes, I'd like to know:
> 
>- if you use presets at all
>- if you like the new proposal better (making them fixed)
> 
> This is the beauty of firmware: it's malleable. No need to keep
> functionality if it gets zero positive feedback.

Wayne,

I tend to agree with the beta testers. I like the idea of those filter
presets, but I haven't used them much because of the floating functionality.
I would prefer to use them for quick recall of my favourite with/filter
settings.

73 de Björn /SM0MDG



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Datamodes

[G4ILO]

Ian J Maude wrote:
> 
> 
> Done that, the receive is fine :-)
> What is the right level then?
> 
Yes, I was going to mention you needed to go into the CONFIG menu and set
LIN OUT, then realized you already said receive was working.

On TX the actual mic gain level is going to be dependent on the output level
from your sound card, which of course can be adjustable from the computer as
well.

On other radios I used to increase the audio drive until the ALC just
started to show. On the K3 it seems that you don't get any ALC indication at
all. So I started with the mic gain at zero and then very slowly increased
it until the power output stops increasing. You have to do it slowly because
if you increase it further, the K3 backs the power down again. You'll
probably increase the level past that point and then back it down again
until you have just enough drive to produce the power you want, and no more.

I should point out that I set the power control to the power I want, 5W in
my case since I have the QRP radio. I see that some people on this list
advocate setting the power control to full and regulating the output power
entirely using the AF gain controls. But in my opinion that runs the risk of
accidentally running too much power and frying the finals unless you watch
the output power all the time. Also, the drive level needed to maintain a
set power level may vary from band to band and even at different places
within the passband. Certainly it did on the K2.


-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Datamodes-tp15786508p15786814.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter presets I/II: present and future functionality

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I haven't used them much. I do tend to forget I'm modifying a config and
then of course, can't get back to it quickly. I find I'm pressing 'NORM' a
lot, so I think perhaps I would prefer to set this up with presets.

It's not clear to me how I would set these up per mode, I'd prefer to have 2
presets per mode and switch between them with a HOLD of I/II, and of course
just be able to move away from the preset with controls and get back to it
with a HOLD of I/II (I'm assuming you wouldn't want to change the TAP
function of I/II.

Here's how I see it might be done:

To use them :
Just a HOLD of I/II to switch to I or II depending upon where you start.
Then if you move away from that setting, by say reducing the width further,
a HOLD of I/II returns you to the preset you were using before you moved
away.

To indicate where your at:
Once a preset is chosen as above, either I or II is displayed.
If you then move away from that, I or II blinks, indicating you started
there, but have changed the settings slightly.
If you haven't set (and stored) a preset for a specific mode, I and II blink
alternately or neither show or perhaps the one or both not set flash very
rapidly. I don't expect this scenario would last long, since most people
would set up from day 1.

To set them, one of two scenarios:
1. A long HOLD (like moving RIT to VFO) of I/II, followed by a press of
either the 1 or 2 button (on RH keypad)
or
2. Start with either preset I or II, the one you wish to change. Make
changes as you wish and then a long HOLD of I/II


If you feel using TAP functionality of say I/II is acceptable, then HOLD
above becomes TAP and long HOLD becomes HOLD.

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

> On 29/02/2008 20:24, "wayne burdick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
> Before we make any changes, I'd like to know:
>- if you use presets at all
>- if you like the new proposal better (making them fixed)

-- 
Soon silence will have passed into legend. Man has turned his back on
silence. Day after day he invents machines and devices that increase noise
and distract humanity from the essence of life, contemplation, meditation.
Tooting, howling, screeching, booming, crashing, whistling, grinding, and
trilling bolster his ego. -Jean Arp, artist and poet (1887-1948)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Datamodes

[Ian J Maude]

G4ILO wrote:

Ian J Maude wrote:
  

Hi all,
I am pretty much a datamodes virgin here but I want to get more into it.
Am I right in saying that I can use RTTY and PSK31 by simply selecting 
DATA A as my mode?  I do not need the inbuilt decode function as HRD 
will handle all of that.  What else if anything should I be looking to 
do when setting up for TX?  I have the K3 operating through a second 
soundcard to minimise the chances of Windows sounds being transmitted 
etc.  The receive seems fine.




You will need to set MIC SEL for that mode to the appropriate source,
presumably LINE IN, and then set the mic gain for the correct drive level.
  

Done that, the receive is fine :-)
What is the right level then?

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Datamodes

[G4ILO]

Ian J Maude wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> I am pretty much a datamodes virgin here but I want to get more into it.
> Am I right in saying that I can use RTTY and PSK31 by simply selecting 
> DATA A as my mode?  I do not need the inbuilt decode function as HRD 
> will handle all of that.  What else if anything should I be looking to 
> do when setting up for TX?  I have the K3 operating through a second 
> soundcard to minimise the chances of Windows sounds being transmitted 
> etc.  The receive seems fine.
> 
You will need to set MIC SEL for that mode to the appropriate source,
presumably LINE IN, and then set the mic gain for the correct drive level.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Datamodes-tp15786508p15786607.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 Datamodes

[Ian J Maude]

Hi all,
I am pretty much a datamodes virgin here but I want to get more into it.
Am I right in saying that I can use RTTY and PSK31 by simply selecting 
DATA A as my mode?  I do not need the inbuilt decode function as HRD 
will handle all of that.  What else if anything should I be looking to 
do when setting up for TX?  I have the K3 operating through a second 
soundcard to minimise the chances of Windows sounds being transmitted 
etc.  The receive seems fine.


Any hints would be appreciated.

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter presets I/II: present and future functionality

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I'm sure Don has given this advice before, because on someone's advice here
some time ago, I started doing it this way and find I have much better
results.


On 01/03/2008 22:13, "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Tony,
> 
> To reduce the width on SSB, try just using Hi Cut instead of the width
> and shift controls.  Normally when reducing the SSB filter width, the
> low end should be near 300 Hz (the K3 uses 250 by default). Keeping the
> low frequency corner of the SSB filter fixed at 350 to 300 Hz preserves
> intelligibility as the highs are reduced with the Hi Cut control - try
> it, you might like it better than fussing with the Width and Shift
> controls - I do it that way all the time, no need to adjust the low end
> unless the filter is VERY narrow (less than 1400 Hz = Hi Cut at 1650 Hz)

-- 
A person usually has two reasons for doing something: a good reason and the
real reason. -Thomas Carlyle, historian and essayist (1795-1881)


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[Elecraft] K2- More on solenoidal chokes

[Jack]

I am missing RFC15, the subminiture 100uH choke. When I emailed to ask for 
one, I was sent a normal sized 100uH choke, not the subminiture.


Can I use this one instead? There is clearance to fit a normal sized choke 
under the PCB.
I'm at the stage I cant proceed any further without it. Should I wait for a 
subminiture to arrive (2 weeks post time) or substitute the larger one?


73
Jack VK2CJC / MM0AXL
FISTS #9666 - CW QRP Club #753 - Elecraft K2 #6404
Mid North Coast Amateur Radio Group  www.mncarg.org

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study

[T. David Yarnes]

Doug and All,

What do you get when you use the RIT control method?  Set 
the menu item "VFO OFS" to "On", and you can make some of 
those excursions much faster than your time, but not the 
really extended ones.  But you can't use that control if you 
are also using the RIT/XIT.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 1:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: split freq: time study



Here is what I just timed (10 measures each category)

Using the Keypad entry method previously described (VFO 
A/B - touch
the ENTER FREQ button, touch the keys for the discrete 
QRG - touch the
"enter" button - and touch VFO A/B button again to get 
back on the
right RX frequency).  Any amount of frequency excursion (1 
kc or

200kc) took me, on average 4.9 seconds.

Using the Coarse/Fine button and "dialing in" using VFO B 
knob - for
frequency excursions greater than 25kc, on average = 10.9 
seconds.
Methodology: Hit the coarse/fine button, use VFO B dial to 
dial in
"close" to the QRG, hit the coarse/fine fine button and 
finish tuning

in to the exact QRG.

Just using VFO B for frequency excursions less than 
10kc...and dialing
in to the exactly QRG (obviously somewhat proportional to 
the total
amount of excursion), on average = 6.3 seconds.  [no use 
of

coarse/fine button]

So for maximum speed, use the keypad method.

de Doug KR2Q
PS...with appreciation to my younger daughter (12th grade) 
who was
kind enough to use her stopwatch to time me and call out 
frequencies

to go to.
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsubscribing - I've finally had enough. (END of THIS Thread.)

[Stewart Baker]

Thanks to all those who replied.
I had heard of a CEO, but a COO was a new one on me.

I had visions of Pigeons; don't know why !

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 17:33:30 GMT, Stewart Baker wrote:
> Sorry, 'scuse my ignorance, but what's a company COO. ?
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
> On Sat, 01 Mar 2008 08:45:35 -0800, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ
Elecraft
> wrote:
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>> Lets end THIS thread. Its generating more noise than necessary.
>>
>> Also, I already ended the other thread in question this
morning,
> shortly
>> after it began.  It usually echoes for a couple of more
postings
> before
>> everyone reads my END message..
>>
>> 73, EricWA6HHQ
>> Elecraft List Moderator, playground monitor, arbitrator and
> company
>> COO.  -)
>>
>> _..._
>>
>>
>> Dave Martin wrote:
>>> On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 11:26 AM, Jim Cox
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
 Well said Rick, can the reflector please be a source of
> Elecraft info only?
 I too may have to unsubscribe if these ramblings continue.
 Jim K4JAF

>>> Yep, it's way too much.
>>>
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