Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread ON4WIX
Let's see who first answers this one right (without looking at a 
thermometer!):


There is one point on the scale of a thermometer where the temp in °C equals 
the temp in F.

Which one is that?
Feel free to prove mathematically...

Enjoy!
Glenn ON4WIX

- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Lyle Johnson'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question





F to C is much slower,


Not really ... (F - 30)/2 is generally within 10% and
(F - 32) * 1.1 / 2 is within about 1%.  Both are easy/quick.

Unfortunately, mental math and estimation are skills that have
been lost with the "calculator generation."

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV





-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question


> You have to do that with your calculator :-)

C to F is fast and easy to do in your head.

The "real" formula is:

F = (1.8 * C) + 32

My mental algorithm is:

double the value,
subtract 10% (round it off, who cares if it is a degree or two off),
add 30,
then add 2 (if you feel the need for the extra precision).

Most of us can double a number in our head pretty easily.
Round it to
the nearest 5 and then double it if you have trouble doubling
37 or 43
or 51.  Hey! It's just the "two times" tables, which we all
learned well
before our 9th birthday.

Doubling and then taking off 10% of the result is the same as
multiplying by 1.8 (or 9/5 if you prefer) but a heckuva lot
easier.   I
never did learn my "1.8 times" tables...

Again, round it if you trip over something like 74 - 7.4.
The answer is
66.6.  But does it really matter if you decide to subtract 10 and get
64?  Or subtract 7 and get 67?

Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.  Why?  Because it is easier to not
deal with the 1's digit until you have to.  If you feel you have to.

I find that I can usually work it out in my head in under a
second and
get within a few degrees of the "correct" result.  Near
enough for most
needs.  If I'm tired it might take 2 or even 3 seconds to make the
conversion, especially if I refuse to round things off (being an
engineer, I sometimes get anal about numbers, which is a good
indicator
I'm tired!).

So, for example, let's take 52C. Is the PA too hot?

The real method:

2 x 52 = 104.
104 - 10.4 = 94 (near enough)
94 + 30 = 124
124 + 2 = 126(if you really care...)

If you'd rounded it:

   2 x 50 = 100
100 - 10 = 90
  90 + 30 = 120
120 +  2 = 122.

Still close enough to decide if your finals are cooking!
(They aren't).
  Would the 4 degree difference have made you change you mind
about the
safety of your PA transistors?  I doubt it.

F to C is much slower, but I rarely have to do that :-)

Enjoy!

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread ON4WIX
Let's see who can answer this question first (without looking at a 
thermometer!):


There is one point on the scale of a thermometer where the temp in Celsius 
and Farenheit are equal. Which one?


Have fun,

Glenn ON4WIX
- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Lyle Johnson'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question





F to C is much slower,


Not really ... (F - 30)/2 is generally within 10% and
(F - 32) * 1.1 / 2 is within about 1%.  Both are easy/quick.

Unfortunately, mental math and estimation are skills that have
been lost with the "calculator generation."

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV





-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question


> You have to do that with your calculator :-)

C to F is fast and easy to do in your head.

The "real" formula is:

F = (1.8 * C) + 32

My mental algorithm is:

double the value,
subtract 10% (round it off, who cares if it is a degree or two off),
add 30,
then add 2 (if you feel the need for the extra precision).

Most of us can double a number in our head pretty easily.
Round it to
the nearest 5 and then double it if you have trouble doubling
37 or 43
or 51.  Hey! It's just the "two times" tables, which we all
learned well
before our 9th birthday.

Doubling and then taking off 10% of the result is the same as
multiplying by 1.8 (or 9/5 if you prefer) but a heckuva lot
easier.   I
never did learn my "1.8 times" tables...

Again, round it if you trip over something like 74 - 7.4.
The answer is
66.6.  But does it really matter if you decide to subtract 10 and get
64?  Or subtract 7 and get 67?

Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.  Why?  Because it is easier to not
deal with the 1's digit until you have to.  If you feel you have to.

I find that I can usually work it out in my head in under a
second and
get within a few degrees of the "correct" result.  Near
enough for most
needs.  If I'm tired it might take 2 or even 3 seconds to make the
conversion, especially if I refuse to round things off (being an
engineer, I sometimes get anal about numbers, which is a good
indicator
I'm tired!).

So, for example, let's take 52C. Is the PA too hot?

The real method:

2 x 52 = 104.
104 - 10.4 = 94 (near enough)
94 + 30 = 124
124 + 2 = 126(if you really care...)

If you'd rounded it:

   2 x 50 = 100
100 - 10 = 90
  90 + 30 = 120
120 +  2 = 122.

Still close enough to decide if your finals are cooking!
(They aren't).
  Would the 4 degree difference have made you change you mind
about the
safety of your PA transistors?  I doubt it.

F to C is much slower, but I rarely have to do that :-)

Enjoy!

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] RSGB RadCom K3 review posted on RSGB Members web page

2008-06-17 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Yes something isn´t right. This was his measurements:

CLOSE-IN INTERMODULATION ON 7MHz band,500Hz bandwidth, CW preamp off

 2.7 kHz roofing  1.8 kHz roofing   500 Hz roofing
2kHz  +19dBm 101dB+12.5dBm 96dB+2.5dBm   88dB
3kHz  +19dBm 101dB+12.5dBm 96dB+2.5dBm   88dB
5kHz  +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+8.5dBm   92dB
7kHz  +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+13dBm95dB
10kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+17.5dBm  98dB
15kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+22dBm   101dB
20kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+25dBm   103dB
30kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+26.5dBm 104dB
40kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+27dBm   104dB
50kHz +22dBm 103dB+12.5dBm 96dB+27dBm   104dB


He also wrote this:

Third order intercept and dynamic range
results were excellent, but results were a
little dependent on which roofing filter was
in circuit (see table). With the stock 2.7kHz
filter, the intermodulation limited dynamic
range held at over 100dB (in 500Hz DSP
bandwidth) down to 2kHz spacing,
probably the highest figure I have ever
measured at this spacing. However, with
the 500Hz 5 pole roofing filter, a
degradation was seen at close spacings and
non-linear effects such as hysteresis were
also observed. A step drop in performance
was triggered as the spacing was reduced,
which did not follow the reverse pattern as
the spacing was again increased.


Now if something similar did happen in the Orion case
a measurement error can be suspected. It isn´t logical
to think two bad filters.

de SM2EKM
.


Bill W4ZV wrote:


Jan Erik Holm wrote:

Interesting review.

Considering IMDDR3 it seems like one should stay
way from the 500 Hz filter, looks like the 400 Hz
is the filter to get.



I haven't read the review but he must have had a bad 500 Hz filter from what
I've heard reported (i.e. the 2.7k better than the 500 Hz).  That makes no
sense and is contradictory to previous measurements by both Elecraft and
Sherwood:

Elecraft:

Filter20kHz  10kHz  5kHz  2kHz
200 Hz, 5 pole100+   100+   100+   95
250 Hz, 8 pole100+   100+   100+   95
400 Hz, 8 pole100+   100+   100+   95
500 Hz, 5 pole100+   100+   100+   94
1 kHz, 8 pole 100+   100+   10094
2.7 kHz, 5 pole   100+   98  92n/a
2.8 kHz, 8 pole   100+   100 93n/a

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Roofing_Filters


Sherwood:

Filter - IMD @ 2 kHz
500 Hz - 95 dB
400 Hz - 96 dB
200 Hz - 101 dB*

*I listed the 200 Hz because it's a 5-pole filter (just like the 500 Hz) in
case some believe there is an inherent problem with 5-pole filters.

http://www.sherweng.com/table.html


It's odd but Peter Hart reported something similar when he did Orion's
review.  The 2.4k filter was much better than the 1.0k, which again makes no
sense unless the 1.0k was defective.  I'm sure Peter reported what he
measured but common sense would dictate that one should suspect something
was wrong with the filter and request another when anomalous results like
this are measured.  It also reminds me when ARRL once reported better IMD
performance with Preamp ON versus Preamp OFF.  Common sense would say
"TILT"!

73,  Bill  W4ZV


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[Elecraft] SDR Adapter

2008-06-17 Thread Don Rasmussen
Here is some more to chew on. ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/6kmw4x

I received my LP-PAN yesterday and got it working this
evening. The good news is you will soon be able to
enjoy the SDR interface with K3. The other news is
that the audio that comes from the K3 speaker is
vastly improved to the PC version. Maybe I have some
dialing in to do, but I truly feel that Wayne and
Lyle's work with the signal processing in the K3
hardware will be the gold standard for years to come.

I keep in mind that the exact same IF goes to the K3
hardware and the PC through LP-PAN, but you don't find
mojo in a PC... ;-)



[Elecraft] SDR Adapter
Wim K6TE kilo6te at yahoo.com 
Wed Jun 18 00:03:33 EDT 2008 

http://www.softrockradio.org/

and this yahoo group (requiring membership)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/softrock40/

- Wim


Jim Miller-14 wrote:
> 
> Web site ?
> 73, Jim
> 
> 

-- 
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http://www.nabble.com/SDR-Adapter-tp17957384p17959336.html
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Nabble.com.


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[Elecraft] K3: Synchronous AM Receive

2008-06-17 Thread Shane White

Any progress on this yet please Elecraft?

VK5ABQ.
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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Adapter

2008-06-17 Thread Wim K6TE


http://www.softrockradio.org/

and this yahoo group (requiring membership)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/softrock40/

- Wim


Jim Miller-14 wrote:
> 
> Web site ?
> 73, Jim
> 
> 

-- 
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[Elecraft] Katiegram

2008-06-17 Thread K3KO

Received June 17 for Feb 2 order.  K3/100,1.8, 400, 250 Hz filters, kxv3.  
Nothing backordered

de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Adapter

2008-06-17 Thread Jim Miller
Web site ?
73, Jim

- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Lloyd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lee Buller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SDR Adapter


> 
> On Jun 17, 2008, at 5:22 PM, Lee Buller wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Not to step on any toes herebut, could a person use one of the  
> > Softrock SDR radios tuned to the IF of the K3 and have a panoramic  
> > view of the band?  Anone doing that or am I missing something?  That  
> > would be cool cause the Softrocks are rather inexpensive.
> 
> Yes. Tony Parks actually makes versions of the Softrock just for use  
> with the K2 and K3.
> 
> --
> 
> 73 de Brian, WB6RQN
> Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RSGB RadCom K3 review posted on RSGB Members web page

2008-06-17 Thread Bill W4ZV


Jan Erik Holm wrote:
> 
> Interesting review.
> 
> Considering IMDDR3 it seems like one should stay
> way from the 500 Hz filter, looks like the 400 Hz
> is the filter to get.
> 

I haven't read the review but he must have had a bad 500 Hz filter from what
I've heard reported (i.e. the 2.7k better than the 500 Hz).  That makes no
sense and is contradictory to previous measurements by both Elecraft and
Sherwood:

Elecraft:

Filter20kHz  10kHz  5kHz  2kHz
200 Hz, 5 pole100+   100+   100+   95
250 Hz, 8 pole100+   100+   100+   95
400 Hz, 8 pole100+   100+   100+   95
500 Hz, 5 pole100+   100+   100+   94
1 kHz, 8 pole 100+   100+   10094
2.7 kHz, 5 pole   100+   98  92n/a
2.8 kHz, 8 pole   100+   100 93n/a

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Roofing_Filters


Sherwood:

Filter - IMD @ 2 kHz
500 Hz - 95 dB
400 Hz - 96 dB
200 Hz - 101 dB*

*I listed the 200 Hz because it's a 5-pole filter (just like the 500 Hz) in
case some believe there is an inherent problem with 5-pole filters.

http://www.sherweng.com/table.html


It's odd but Peter Hart reported something similar when he did Orion's
review.  The 2.4k filter was much better than the 1.0k, which again makes no
sense unless the 1.0k was defective.  I'm sure Peter reported what he
measured but common sense would dictate that one should suspect something
was wrong with the filter and request another when anomalous results like
this are measured.  It also reminds me when ARRL once reported better IMD
performance with Preamp ON versus Preamp OFF.  Common sense would say
"TILT"!

73,  Bill  W4ZV
-- 
View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] [K3] Nit-pick about the TX LED

2008-06-17 Thread Carl Clawson
TX flashes when I hit my paddles, even in the absence of VOX or PTT.
Shouldn't it flash only when the rig is really transmitting, or pretending
to in TX TEST?

Also, the ALC shows an indication if you have that on the meter display.

There. I feel better now. Thanks for listening.

73, Carl WS7L
K3 #486

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Re: [Elecraft] SDR Adapter

2008-06-17 Thread Brian Lloyd


On Jun 17, 2008, at 5:22 PM, Lee Buller wrote:




Not to step on any toes herebut, could a person use one of the  
Softrock SDR radios tuned to the IF of the K3 and have a panoramic  
view of the band?  Anone doing that or am I missing something?  That  
would be cool cause the Softrocks are rather inexpensive.


Yes. Tony Parks actually makes versions of the Softrock just for use  
with the K2 and K3.


--

73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com



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[Elecraft] SDR Adapter

2008-06-17 Thread Lee Buller


Not to step on any toes herebut, could a person use one of the Softrock SDR 
radios tuned to the IF of the K3 and have a panoramic view of the band?  Anone 
doing that or am I missing something?  That would be cool cause the Softrocks 
are rather inexpensive.

Lee - K0Wa



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?
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[Elecraft] F to C

2008-06-17 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Just tattoo this onto your forearm - if the PA Temp is under 100F,
don't worry about it.

F   C
200 93
195 91
190 88
185 85
180 82
175 79
170 77
165 74
160 71
155 68
150 66
145 63
140 60
135 57
130 54
125 52
120 49
115 46
110 43
105 41
100 38
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


> F to C is much slower, 

Not really ... (F - 30)/2 is generally within 10% and   
(F - 32) * 1.1 / 2 is within about 1%.  Both are easy/quick. 

Unfortunately, mental math and estimation are skills that have 
been lost with the "calculator generation." 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:14 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question
> 
> 
> > You have to do that with your calculator :-)
> 
> C to F is fast and easy to do in your head.
> 
> The "real" formula is:
> 
> F = (1.8 * C) + 32
> 
> My mental algorithm is:
> 
> double the value,
> subtract 10% (round it off, who cares if it is a degree or two off),
> add 30,
> then add 2 (if you feel the need for the extra precision).
> 
> Most of us can double a number in our head pretty easily.  
> Round it to 
> the nearest 5 and then double it if you have trouble doubling 
> 37 or 43 
> or 51.  Hey! It's just the "two times" tables, which we all 
> learned well 
> before our 9th birthday.
> 
> Doubling and then taking off 10% of the result is the same as 
> multiplying by 1.8 (or 9/5 if you prefer) but a heckuva lot 
> easier.   I 
> never did learn my "1.8 times" tables...
> 
> Again, round it if you trip over something like 74 - 7.4.  
> The answer is 
> 66.6.  But does it really matter if you decide to subtract 10 and get 
> 64?  Or subtract 7 and get 67?
> 
> Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.  Why?  Because it is easier to not 
> deal with the 1's digit until you have to.  If you feel you have to.
> 
> I find that I can usually work it out in my head in under a 
> second and 
> get within a few degrees of the "correct" result.  Near 
> enough for most 
> needs.  If I'm tired it might take 2 or even 3 seconds to make the 
> conversion, especially if I refuse to round things off (being an 
> engineer, I sometimes get anal about numbers, which is a good 
> indicator 
> I'm tired!).
> 
> So, for example, let's take 52C. Is the PA too hot?
> 
> The real method:
> 
> 2 x 52 = 104.
> 104 - 10.4 = 94 (near enough)
> 94 + 30 = 124
> 124 + 2 = 126(if you really care...)
> 
> If you'd rounded it:
> 
>2 x 50 = 100
> 100 - 10 = 90
>   90 + 30 = 120
> 120 +  2 = 122.
> 
> Still close enough to decide if your finals are cooking!  
> (They aren't). 
>   Would the 4 degree difference have made you change you mind 
> about the 
> safety of your PA transistors?  I doubt it.
> 
> F to C is much slower, but I rarely have to do that :-)
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Lyle KK7P
> 
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[Elecraft] Fuses (WAS: Power cable question)

2008-06-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Granted, a fuse often isn't as fast a fuse as a small-signal transistor, but
fuses do a good job saving power transformers, rectifiers, voltage
regulators, and many other expensive and hard-to-replace parts in equipment.


I'm no fuse designer, but I am aware that at least some fuse manufacturers
recommend not exceeding 75% of the fuse rating in service and many won't
guarantee their fuses to carry the rated current for long. Littlefuse, for
example, only guarantees their fuses to last 4 hours running at 100% of
their rated current. They might last thousands of hours at their rated
current, or not. 

One thing I suspect causes failures in some systems I've worked on (radars,
nav gear, commercial HF/VHF radios, etc.) is the turn-on surge current,
which can be several times the normal current as capacitors charge, blowers
come up to speed, etc. While the total surge may be within the fuse ratings
for current vs. time, the repeated heavy "hits" don't do them any good. 

I've often suspected that is one significant cause of the fuse failures I've
seen where the measured currents are quite normal once the fuse is replaced.


Fuses may be shock-sensitive, sometimes surprisingly so. I've dropped a
brand new just-checked fuse, picked it up and found the element cracked or
broken although the glass tube was not damaged. (Murphy dictates that the
most shock-sensitive fuse is the last one you have within an hour's travel).
These are brand-name, normally excellent quality fuses too. I treat the
replacement fuses in my kit just like I'd care for an incandescent bulb or
vacuum tube. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 > wrote:

> A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other
> words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  
> blow a new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  
> get metal fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  
> transistors - on three legs anyway...

Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  
is to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  
component itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  
rise. The idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  
there is any chance of damage to the wire.

This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  
If you want that level of protection you need something like a power  
supply with fold-back current limiting.

Brian Lloyd

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
I will still use F = (1.8 * (C+40)) - 40 -- as I said, I have more 
trouble remembering whether to add or subtract the 32.
Similarly, C = (F+40)/1.8 -40, so it is not so complicated after all.   
Dividing by 1.8 is similarly easy to do in the head - divide by 2 and 
then add 10% of the result - it is not exact, but close enough for 
'government work'.


73,
Don W3FPR

Lyle Johnson wrote:

You have to do that with your calculator :-)


C to F is fast and easy to do in your head.

The "real" formula is:

F = (1.8 * C) + 32

My mental algorithm is:

double the value,
subtract 10% (round it off, who cares if it is a degree or two off),
add 30,
then add 2 (if you feel the need for the extra precision).

Most of us can double a number in our head pretty easily.  Round it to 
the nearest 5 and then double it if you have trouble doubling 37 or 43 
or 51.  Hey! It's just the "two times" tables, which we all learned 
well before our 9th birthday.


Doubling and then taking off 10% of the result is the same as 
multiplying by 1.8 (or 9/5 if you prefer) but a heckuva lot easier.   
I never did learn my "1.8 times" tables...


Again, round it if you trip over something like 74 - 7.4.  The answer 
is 66.6.  But does it really matter if you decide to subtract 10 and 
get 64?  Or subtract 7 and get 67?


Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.  Why?  Because it is easier to not 
deal with the 1's digit until you have to.  If you feel you have to.


I find that I can usually work it out in my head in under a second and 
get within a few degrees of the "correct" result.  Near enough for 
most needs.  If I'm tired it might take 2 or even 3 seconds to make 
the conversion, especially if I refuse to round things off (being an 
engineer, I sometimes get anal about numbers, which is a good 
indicator I'm tired!).


So, for example, let's take 52C. Is the PA too hot?

The real method:

2 x 52 = 104.
104 - 10.4 = 94 (near enough)
94 + 30 = 124
124 + 2 = 126(if you really care...)

If you'd rounded it:

  2 x 50 = 100
100 - 10 = 90
 90 + 30 = 120
120 +  2 = 122.

Still close enough to decide if your finals are cooking!  (They 
aren't).  Would the 4 degree difference have made you change you mind 
about the safety of your PA transistors?  I doubt it.


F to C is much slower, but I rarely have to do that :-)

Enjoy!

Lyle KK7P

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1505 - Release Date: 6/16/2008 7:20 AM
  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Lyle Johnson

Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.


Add 30 then 2... It was a test...

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Lou Aguilar

Google works great for this:


Fahrenheit to Celsius

90f in c

Celsius to F:

23c in f



On Jun 17, 2008, at 4:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Paul,

You have to do that with your calculator :-) .
I never can remember when to add 32 and when to subtract 32, so I  
use a slightly different method which relies on the fact that both  
the F and C scales coincide at -40 deg.
Add 40 first - then multiply by 5/9 (multiply by 5 and divide by 9)  
if converting from F to C (9/5 when converting from C to F), then  
subtract 40 and you will have the converted result.  Remembering  
whether to use 5/9 or 9/5 is easy too - if the result you want is  
the C scale, the number will be smaller, so use 5/9.  When the  
result is in deg F, the number must be larger, so use 9/5.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




The technical menu needs to be turned on in order to view the PA  
temp, etc.


How do you switch the temperatures to Fahrenheit?

Paul N4LCD


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Lyle Johnson

You have to do that with your calculator :-)


C to F is fast and easy to do in your head.

The "real" formula is:

F = (1.8 * C) + 32

My mental algorithm is:

double the value,
subtract 10% (round it off, who cares if it is a degree or two off),
add 30,
then add 2 (if you feel the need for the extra precision).

Most of us can double a number in our head pretty easily.  Round it to 
the nearest 5 and then double it if you have trouble doubling 37 or 43 
or 51.  Hey! It's just the "two times" tables, which we all learned well 
before our 9th birthday.


Doubling and then taking off 10% of the result is the same as 
multiplying by 1.8 (or 9/5 if you prefer) but a heckuva lot easier.   I 
never did learn my "1.8 times" tables...


Again, round it if you trip over something like 74 - 7.4.  The answer is 
66.6.  But does it really matter if you decide to subtract 10 and get 
64?  Or subtract 7 and get 67?


Subtract 30 then 2 rather than 32.  Why?  Because it is easier to not 
deal with the 1's digit until you have to.  If you feel you have to.


I find that I can usually work it out in my head in under a second and 
get within a few degrees of the "correct" result.  Near enough for most 
needs.  If I'm tired it might take 2 or even 3 seconds to make the 
conversion, especially if I refuse to round things off (being an 
engineer, I sometimes get anal about numbers, which is a good indicator 
I'm tired!).


So, for example, let's take 52C. Is the PA too hot?

The real method:

2 x 52 = 104.
104 - 10.4 = 94 (near enough)
94 + 30 = 124
124 + 2 = 126(if you really care...)

If you'd rounded it:

  2 x 50 = 100
100 - 10 = 90
 90 + 30 = 120
120 +  2 = 122.

Still close enough to decide if your finals are cooking!  (They aren't). 
 Would the 4 degree difference have made you change you mind about the 
safety of your PA transistors?  I doubt it.


F to C is much slower, but I rarely have to do that :-)

Enjoy!

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: June 18 - July 30, 2008

2008-06-17 Thread Ken Newman

~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
June 18 - July 30, 2008 
~

NAQCC Straight Key/Bug mW Sprint (CW) *** QRPp CONTEST ***
June 18, 0130z to 0230z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
AGCW VHF/UHF CW Contest ... QRP Category
June 21, 1600z to 1900z (144 Mhz)
June 21, 1900z to 2100z (432 Mhz)
Rules: http://www.agcw.org/en/?Contests:VHF-UHF_Contest
~
SKCC Sprint (Straight Key CW)  ... QRP Awards
June 25, z to 0200z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/sks/
~
Marconi Memorial Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
June 28, 1400z to June 29, 1400z
Rules: http://www.arifano.it/Contest_Marconi.htm
~
ARRL Field Day (CW/SSB/RTTY)... QRP Category
June 28, 1800z to June 29, 2100z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2008/fd.html
~
QRP ARCI Milliwatt Field Day (ALL)... QRP Contest!
June 28, 1800z to June 29, 2100z
Rules:  http://www.qrparci.org
~
MQFD Monthly Sprint (CW/PH/Digital) *** QRP Contest ***
June 28, 1800z to 2200z
Rules: http://w2agn.net/mqfdsprint.html
~
RAC Canada Day Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Jul 1, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.rac.ca/service/contesting/
~
Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW
EDT: Tue Jul 1. 9 PM  to 1029 PM
UTC: Wed Jul 2, 0100z to 0229z 
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/

~
MI QRP Fourth of July Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jul 4, 2300z to Jul 5, 0300z
Rules:  http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html
~
VK/trans-Tasman Contests (160m Ph) ... QRP Category
Jul 5, 0800z to 1400z
Rules: http://home.iprimus.com.au/vktasman/RULES.HTM
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Event!
Jul 8, 0100z to 0300z(First Monday 9 PM EDT)
Info: http://arsqrp.pbwiki.com/Spartan+Sprints
~
Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW
EDT: Tue Jul 8. 9 PM  to 1029 PM
UTC: Wed Jul 9, 0100z to 0229z 
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/

~
FISTS Summer Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Jul 11, 2000 EDT to 2400 EDT
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html
~
IARU HF World Championship (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Jul 12, 1200z to Jul 13, 1200z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2008/iaru.html
~
QRP ARCI Summer Homebrew Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jul 13, 2000z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org
~
SKCC Weekend Sprintathon (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Category
Jul 13, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/wes/
~
Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW
EDT: Tue Jul 15. 9 PM  to 1029 PM
UTC: Wed Jul 16, 0100z to 0229z 
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/

~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! ***
EDT: Jul 16, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Jul 17, 0030z to 0230z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
VK/trans-Tasman Contests (160m CW) ... QRP Category
Jul 19, 0900z to 1300z
Rules: http://home.iprimus.com.au/vktasman/RULES.HTM
~
North American QSO Party (RTTY) /QRP Entries Noted
Jul 19, 1800Z to Jul 20, 0600Z
Rules:  http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php
~
CQ WW VHF Contest (All, 6 & 2 Meters) ... QRP (10W) Category
Jul 19, 1800z to Jul 20, 2100z
Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html
~
RSGB Low Power Field Day (CW) ...QRP Contest!
Jul 20, 0900z to 1200z 
Jul 20, 1300z to 1600z 
Rules: http://www.vhfcc.org/hfcc/calendar07.shtml

~
Colorado Gold Rush (20 mtr CW QRP) ... QRP Contest
July 20, 2000z to 2159z 
Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/gold2008.htm

~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EDT: Jul 20, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Jul 21, 0100z 0300z
Rules: http://fpqrp.net:80/fpqrprun.php
~
SKCC S

Re: [Elecraft] KPA100/Kat100

2008-06-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

If you want to do it without purchasing any new parts, just remove the 
KPA100 from the EC2 enclosure and mount it on top of the K2.  Use the 
top cover from the K2 to fill the big hole in th etop of the EC2 
enclosure with the KAT100 still inside.


OTOH, if you require the short height KAT100, you will have to obtain 
the KAT100-1 enclosure hardware.  It is not a difficult task at all.


73,
Don W3FPR

David N. wrote:

I picked up  KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 case how do I want to divorce them
to install the KPA100 into the K2 to make it a K2-100 and leave the KAT100 
alone tuner only. Has anyone on the reflector done this yet? I thought I would 
ask before tearing into it.
David KR4OW
  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

You have to do that with your calculator :-) .
I never can remember when to add 32 and when to subtract 32, so I use a 
slightly different method which relies on the fact that both the F and C 
scales coincide at -40 deg.
Add 40 first - then multiply by 5/9 (multiply by 5 and divide by 9) if 
converting from F to C (9/5 when converting from C to F), then subtract 
40 and you will have the converted result.  Remembering whether to use 
5/9 or 9/5 is easy too - if the result you want is the C scale, the 
number will be smaller, so use 5/9.  When the result is in deg F, the 
number must be larger, so use 9/5.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




The technical menu needs to be turned on in order to view the PA 
temp, etc.


How do you switch the temperatures to Fahrenheit?

Paul N4LCD


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Antennex

2008-06-17 Thread Clark B. Wierda (N8CBW)
The prefetch is what is getting you.

They have a "Hoover-trap" built into their pages with a link which
MUST_NOT_BE_FOLLOWED.  IF you follow it (or the pre-fetch does), you are
deep-sixed by IP and you get the Mass Downloading notice.

I'm not sure why it is working for one and not the other unless
Mozilla is the source of the pre-fetch.

73,
Clark N8CBW

On 2008-06-17, Mike Harris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Good day,
>
> Many thanks to all who replied.  I have tested with our ISP and they get
> the same result as I do using IE6 & IE7.  Mozilla seems to work OK.
>
> Very odd.  They use some pre fetch for their cache but you would think
> that would affect both browsers.  I routinely scan for spy-ware.
>
> Anyway, again thanks, something I will have to ponder.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Front Panel - Nothing on LCD

2008-06-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

Glad you found it.  Keep warm down there! 
Yes, soldering is *the* most common builder problem.  When in doubt, 
check the soldering, then re-check the soldering, and when that is done 
- check the soldering.


For those just starting to build, use an iron temperature at about 750 
degrees F (800 for the KPA100), and watch carefully for the solder to 
flow - if you do not see the solder wicked into the thru-plated hole, it 
is not a good solder connection.  Use a small diameter solder to assist 
in controlling the amount (I prefer .015 inch diameter in a 63/37 alloy 
with a midly activated rosin flux).  Too much solder can be just as bad 
as not enough.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Nightingale wrote:

Hi Don, I bow to your genius. The problem appears to be a soldering issue with 
the main chip. I was very lucky in that I was able to remove the solder from 
one side of the LCD and lift it up enough to get to the chip soldering points. 
A re-solder of each pin and all is well with the world.

Very lucky, as the next post for me arrives late October.

I wonder if it would be worth adding a test stage pre-LCD install to prevent 
juniors like myself going down this route.

Hopefully I'll have time to complete in the next few weeks and be transmitting 
from the hills of Adelaide Island when the sun comes back.

Many thanks again
73,
Ian - VP8ROT (G0VZM)
  

 7:20 AM


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[Elecraft] K3 Suggestion - Spot/Pitch

2008-06-17 Thread drewko1
FWIW, another suggestion for the pile...

While tuning some weak CW with my new K3 it occurred to me that the
ability to vary the pitch of received signals might be userful. Under
marginal conditions this might prove handy in optimizing a weak
signal.

Of course, we have the PITCH control-- but when it is activated the
sidetone comes on and the received audio is cut off. I suggest that
the sidetone should be absent and the received audio should be heard
when PITCH is activated. Then by varying VFOB one can directly alter
the pitch of the signal(s).

Now, since VFOB has no function while SPOT is on, perhaps it could be
used to vary the sidetone pitch.

In short... PITCH would allow you to directly vary the pitch of
received signals while listening to them, while SPOT would allow you
to vary the pitch of the sidetone.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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[Elecraft] K3 Second Rx

2008-06-17 Thread Mike Scott
I just ordered a K3 sub receiver. Katie says it should come in August or
September.

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Antennex

2008-06-17 Thread Mike Harris
Good day,

Many thanks to all who replied.  I have tested with our ISP and they get 
the same result as I do using IE6 & IE7.  Mozilla seems to work OK.

Very odd.  They use some pre fetch for their cache but you would think 
that would affect both browsers.  I routinely scan for spy-ware.

Anyway, again thanks, something I will have to ponder.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Hi - Lo Cut V2.02

2008-06-17 Thread Lyle Johnson

When I tap the Hi Width knob with Version 2.02, Both the Lo and Hi Cut are
engaged...


SHIFT/WIDTH and HI CUT/LO CUT they are ganged together and always have been.

73,

Lyle KK7P


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Brian Lloyd


On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:


A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other  
words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  
blow a new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  
get metal fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  
transistors - on three legs anyway...


Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  
is to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  
component itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  
rise. The idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  
there is any chance of damage to the wire.


This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  
If you want that level of protection you need something like a power  
supply with fold-back current limiting.


Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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[Elecraft] [K3] Hi - Lo Cut V2.02

2008-06-17 Thread Roland Guidry
 
When I tab the Hi Width knob with Version 2.02, Both the Lo and Hi Cut are
engaged. Did this change? I thought that they were independent whereby
tabbing Hi Cut only engaged the Hi Cut and left the Shift on.
 
Roland NA5Q
K3 845
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[Elecraft] KPA100/Kat100

2008-06-17 Thread David N.
I picked up  KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 case how do I want to divorce them
to install the KPA100 into the K2 to make it a K2-100 and leave the KAT100 
alone tuner only. Has anyone on the reflector done this yet? I thought I would 
ask before tearing into it.
David KR4OW


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread michael taylor
On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 12:12 PM, Tom Childers, N5GE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:42:53 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>How do you switch the temperatures to Fahrenheit?
>>
>>Paul N4LCD

I think transistors work in Celsius, while vacuum tubes / valves work
in Fahrenheit. :-)

(As far as I know, Tom is right, good old fashion arithmetic is required)

-Michael, VE3TIX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:42:53 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>
>
>
>>The technical menu needs to be turned on in order to view the PA temp, etc.
>
>How do you switch the temperatures to Fahrenheit?
>
>Paul N4LCD
>

[snip]

You can't.  You have to do the calculation shown on page 51 of the owner's
manual in the FP TEMP section.

73,

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

"Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety" 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] For Sale

2008-06-17 Thread himself

   All Sales Stateside only!
   New unbuilt kit KAT100-1  150W External ATU for the K2
   $220 + Shipping
   New unbuilt kit  KPA100  100W PA option for the K2
   comes with KPA100UPKT  KPA upgrade kit and complete with shield kit.
   $390 + Shipping
   List of other Ham Stuff on request
   Please inquire direct to
   Stephen
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Release Notes

2008-06-17 Thread dieven
Craig: You can open the hfwnotes.rtf file (in your firmware folder) with 
WordPad (a standard Windows accessory) or Word and print from there.

Dick, K6KR


-- Original message -- 
From: "Craig D. Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I've just upgraded my K3 firmware and would like to get a printout of the 
> release notes so that I can sort through all the changes since the version 
> 1.78/1.58 that I had installed previously. The release notes appear, as 
> advertised, in the help menu of the download utility. But how do I print 
> them out?? Not everyone who buys an Elecraft radio is a computer expert - 
> especially me! Can someone give me a clue as to how to get a printout? If 
> printing from the download utility isn't possible, could Elecraft post the 
> release notes as a pdf on their web page? 
> 
> Thanks and 73 
>  Craig AC0DS 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Antennex

2008-06-17 Thread Vic K2VCO

Mike Harris wrote:

Good day,

Could someone please test the Antennex URL:

http://www.antennex.com/shopping.htm

With that or even http://www.antennex.com all I can get is a warning about 
not mass downloading with no further access.


These worked fine with IE6 and with Firefox.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] OT - Antennex

2008-06-17 Thread Dave G4AON

Hello Mike

It works fine for me using Firefox 2 (my standard browser) and IE7. I 
run "No Script" in Firefox, the site looks fine without using Java or 
Java Script (blocked by default when using No Script), so not idea why 
it didn't work for you...


73 Dave, G4AON

--
Good day,

Could someone please test the Antennex URL:

http://www.antennex.com/shopping.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - REF CAL Question

2008-06-17 Thread Paul





The technical menu needs to be turned on in order to view the PA temp, etc.


How do you switch the temperatures to Fahrenheit?

Paul N4LCD



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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Release Notes

2008-06-17 Thread Craig D. Smith
Thanks, Tom and both Kens, for the info and pdf version of the notes.  That
was exactly what I was looking for, and good to know where they reside in my
computer since there is no print function on that part of the download
utility.

Thanks again for your complete and rapid answers!!

73
  ... Craig   AC0DS



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[Elecraft] K3 Auto Notch

2008-06-17 Thread Paul




I was talking with an average power of 4 Watts from Georgia to a 
fellow in Vermont, and a very loud tuner-upper dropped in.


I hit the K3's Auto Notch and he completely disappeared.

The notching was so complete that I turned it off to see if the 
tuner-upper had actually quit tuning, or if the Auto-Notch was just 
doing a great job.  He hadn't stopped tuning.


Paul N4LCD



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[Elecraft] K3 Firmware Release Notes

2008-06-17 Thread Craig D. Smith
I've just upgraded my K3 firmware and would like to get a printout of the
release notes so that I can sort through all the changes since the version
1.78/1.58 that I had installed previously.  The release notes appear, as
advertised, in the help menu of the download utility.  But how do I print
them out??  Not everyone who buys an Elecraft radio is a computer expert -
especially me!   Can someone give me a clue as to how to get a printout?  If
printing from the download utility isn't possible, could Elecraft post the
release notes as a pdf on their web page?

  Thanks and 73
 Craig  AC0DS



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[Elecraft] Re: Possible K3 2.02 Firmware Bug....

2008-06-17 Thread Bob Evans
Mike,

 

Every computer I've owned fires pins on the serial, parallel and USB ports
as it checks itself out on start up.  This has nothing to do with the K3.
You can turn off VOX when you start the computer and you won't transmit via
your serial/LPT/USB ports.

 

73,

Bob K5WA

 

 



 

Has anyone else noticed that when in CW mode and in RX, if you turn on your
computer which is connected to the rig or disconnect the USB cable the rig
will start sending da's continuously? My conditions are K3 firmware 2.02
Windows XP home edition and a USB/serial converter. This strange operation
has been happening also when I wake my laptop from "sleep mode".

 

Mike N8XPQ

K3 #248

 

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[Elecraft] KPA3 problem solved!

2008-06-17 Thread ni0c
Oops!  The problem I reported earlier today 
(K3 shutting off when keyed at high power)
was caused by current limiting of my Astron
VS-35M power supply.  Before getting the K3,
I was just using this supply for low power station
accessories and my K2/10, so I had adjusted 
the current limiting way down for safety.

Cranking the current limit knob fully clockwise
solved my problem-- the K3 now puts out a full
100 watts to my antenna.

Sorry for the panic! Now to enjoy using my 
new K3!

73,
Chuck Guenther NI0C
K2/10 s/n 5853
K3/100 s/n 1061
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[Elecraft] OT - Antennex

2008-06-17 Thread Mike Harris
Good day,

Could someone please test the Antennex URL:

http://www.antennex.com/shopping.htm

With that or even http://www.antennex.com all I can get is a warning about 
not mass downloading with no further access.

The reply I received to a direct query is:
<>
It's something, like an addon in your browser. Nothing wrong with the
site. All standard Mozilla-type browser work fine.

Try a different browser perhaps.

All the best,
Rosetta (Rosie) Stone
<>

I run IE6 without any add-on's which works perfectly OK with every other 
site I try.  I can't believe this site could be so specific with respect 
to browser and neither am I that bothered to want to install another.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO 

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Re: [Elecraft] RSGB RadCom K3 review posted on RSGB Members web page

2008-06-17 Thread David Yarnes
H!  Makes me feel like I knew something when I decided to get the 400 hz 
filter instead of the 500 hz filter!


As far as power settings, I usually like to follow a self imposed rule of 
never running a transceiver at more than 85% of "maximum".  It probably is 
meaningless in many cases as far as really being a safety valve, but I 
figure that less than maximum strain ought to have some beneficial effect on 
the finals, etc.  It probably sounds very arbitrary, but I follow this same 
rule in lots of things--even other than ham radio.   In golf, for instance, 
I find that swinging the club at about 80-85% of what might be my maximum 
results in better contact and consistency.  As far as the receiving station 
is concerned, 80 or 85 watts vs. 100 watts should be imperceptible. 
Although the K3 may not be one of them, there are lots of rigs out there 
that are very closely spec'd, either as to the finals, or the filters, etc. 
Some rigs have lots of  "cushion"--the older TS-50 comes to mind, which 
apparently could easily  run 200 watts or more with the finals in that rig. 
Some folks were actually cranking them up to that or higher!  But nobody 
seemed to be too concerned about what the bandpass filters could handle, 
etc.,  and that bothered me enough to resist the temptation.  So, I usually 
set my K3 at around 85 watts if I'm running QRO.  Ignorance is bliss 
sometimes!


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Jan Erik Holm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Cc: 
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RSGB RadCom K3 review posted on RSGB Members web 
page



Interesting review.

Considering IMDDR3 it seems like one should stay
way from the 500 Hz filter, looks like the 400 Hz
is the filter to get.

Also the TX probably shouldn´t be cranked up to
120W but instead 100W should be maximum.

73 Jim SM2EKM
--
Dave G4AON wrote:

For those who are RSGB members, see:

http://www.rsgb.org/membersonly/publications/reviews/index.php

The K3 review by Peter Hart has just been posted.

As it is copyright RSGB, so I can't quote much of it, but Peter concludes 
with:


"The K3 is an impressive
radio, which has attracted much interest
and orders. One of the leading radios for
close-in dynamic range and with excellent
features, it is an ideal radio for use at home,
field day or DXpeditions"

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Front Panel - Nothing on LCD

2008-06-17 Thread Ian Nightingale
Hi Don, I bow to your genius. The problem appears to be a soldering issue with 
the main chip. I was very lucky in that I was able to remove the solder from 
one side of the LCD and lift it up enough to get to the chip soldering points. 
A re-solder of each pin and all is well with the world.

Very lucky, as the next post for me arrives late October.

I wonder if it would be worth adding a test stage pre-LCD install to prevent 
juniors like myself going down this route.

Hopefully I'll have time to complete in the next few weeks and be transmitting 
from the hills of Adelaide Island when the sun comes back.

Many thanks again
73,
Ian - VP8ROT (G0VZM)






- Original Message 
From: Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: VP8ROT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, 10 June, 2008 12:45:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Front Panel - Nothing on LCD

Ian,

The very most likely problem is that you have a soldering joint failure.
Look very critically at your solder connections.  Is there just a slight 
bit more solder applied than that required to fill the thru-plated 
hole?  Do all the solder joints have a smooth concave slope on the 
sides?  Do the edges of the solder joint taper out to an almost 
invisible edge on both the solder pad and the component lead?

If the answer to any of the above questions is yes,  then your soldering 
is certainly suspect.  You must apply enough heat to cause the solder to 
flow out onto the solder pad and down into the thru-plated hole.  Any 
solder connections that have a blob of solder on them are not well 
soldered connections.  An excess of solder can hide a poorly soldered 
joint, and in fact is the usual appearance of a bad solder joint.

Review the figures in the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if 
necessary.

73,
Don W3FPR

VP8ROT wrote:
> Hello, I am building a K1 and have come up against a problem I can't solve at
> the " Alignment and Test, part 1".
>
> Here you power the K1 for the first time with the RF, filter and front
> boards connected. After the LEDs do their test the LCD screen should show an
> error code. Nothing appears on my screen.
>
> I have checked all chip orientations and to the best of my knowledge check
> for shorts on the switches (they go from + volts to zero when pressed).
> There are no obvious solder problems on the board.
>
> Please could someone suggest any tests I should perform to find the source
> of my problem.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Ian, VP8ROT
> Rothera
> Antarctica
>  
>

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[Elecraft] K3 s/n 1061 build glitches

2008-06-17 Thread ni0c
The trouble I reported yesterday (low receive sensitivity 
with coax shield connected) disappeared after I performed 
the Tx gain calibration procedure (at low power).

So I installed the KPA3 100 watt amplifier module, but now
the rig shuts down completely if I key it at any power level
requiring the KPA3 (i.e. above 12 watts).  It does this with 
two different well matched antennas and with a 50 ohm 
dummy load. 

73,
Chuck  NI0C
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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Julius Fazekas
Hi Ron,

Thanks for the analysis. You pointed out several
things I was unaware of related to these types of
fuses. Nice to learn something new!

I'm in the process of redoing the power distribution
in my shack, so will take this info into account.

Fortunately, it's been a while since I've blown any
fuse.


Cheers,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] Low receive sensitivity on new K3

2008-06-17 Thread George Victor
Are you SURE the antenna is working fine with the other rigs?
George





On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 6:44 PM, ni0c <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've completed the initial build of K3
> s/n 1061 and am having trouble receiving
> anything.  The receiver perks up a lot
> when I just connect the center pin of my
> coax to the ANT1 jack. It goes dead
> completely as soon as the shield makes
> contact with the connector.
> My antenna works fine on my other rigs.
>
> I have the KANT3 module in the K3
> (no antenna tuner).
>
> The ANT1 input reads a dead short
> with an ohmmeter.
>
> I have completed the VCO cal,
> filter settings and enabling, etc. as
> outlined in the manual.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
> I'm suspecting the trouble is in the
> KANT3 module.
>
> 73,
> Chuck  Guenther  NI0C
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[Elecraft] Nabble 2

2008-06-17 Thread G4ILO

If you use Nabble to read this reflector then you'll probably have noticed
that Nabble 2 has just been released. I'm not sure when the Elecraft list
will move over, but when it does you will need to re-register with Nabble 2.
(Use the same email address you are registered with the reflector, so that
any postings you make are accepted by the reflector.)

Hopefully the new version will fix the broken threading that has been
apparent with the old one. You can even upload a picture to appear next to
your postings! With a snippet of code the Nabble forum can be embedded in a
web page, so perhaps it will be possible to access it through the Elecraft
website in the near future?

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Nabble-2-tp17881717p17881717.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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