Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 Shipping?

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

Should be delivered at this QTH today :-)
Ordered with rest of K3 on 2-May-07
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Hofstadter's Law: The time and effort required to complete a project are
always more than you expect, even when you take into account  
Hofstadter's

Law.

On 29 Jul 2008, at 14:01, Jerry T. Dowell wrote:

Is anyone receiving their KRX3s? My order has been in for over 13  
months,

but no sign of it yet! The S/N of my K3 is 467.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

2008-08-05 Thread Ian White GM3SEK

Alan Bloom wrote:
The cool (pun intended) way to do it is to use a thermostat wired in 
parallel with a resistor in series with the fan.  The fan only runs at 
full voltage when the heat sink gets hot.




The Astron SS-30 has a very noisy fan that is controlled by a thermal 
switch on the heatsink. But there isn't sufficient cooling when the fan 
is off, so every few minutes brings another blast of fan noise.


A 100-ohm 3W resistor in parallel with the thermal switch will keep the 
fan running slowly and quietly, all the time. With a typical load from a 
"100W" transceiver, I've never heard it switch to full speed again.


The main concern is to be sure that the fan still turns on reliably 
with the resistor in series.  I would test to find the largest 
resistance that allows the fan to start and use no more than half that 
value, to allow for changes in fan characteristics as it ages.


Agreed. 100 ohms gives brisk and reliable starting for that particular 
12V fan, but other fans will vary.



--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 Shipping?

2008-08-05 Thread Steef PA2A
Well David,

You knew that it would take some time. The Hofstetter 's Law is directly under 
your message hi! I will try to remember the Law, I ordered my KRX3 yesterday :-)

73 's Steef PA2A

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 Shipping?


> Should be delivered at this QTH today :-)
> Ordered with rest of K3 on 2-May-07
> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
> --  
> Hofstadter's Law: The time and effort required to complete a project are
> always more than you expect, even when you take into account  
> Hofstadter's
> Law.
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[Elecraft] K3/10 Kit, #1230

2008-08-05 Thread Ruchan Ozatay
For whom is still tracking deliveries

K3/10 Kit, Serial # 1230
KFL3A - 2.8K Filter
KAT3
KPCA-F
KUSB
MH2-R

After a long waiting time, invoiced at 23/05/2008.
Sent to my friend in Holmdel, NJ.
I have picked up from there last week and carried as hand baggage.
Passed through Dullas-Washington DC and JFK-New York,NY airports security on 
August 02security without any trouble.
Assembly completed in Istanbul-Turkey on August 04.
It is working now as expected.

73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 Shipping?

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

Yes
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Hofstadter's Law: The time and effort required to complete a project are
always more than you expect, even when you take into account  
Hofstadter's

Law.

On 30 Jul 2008, at 00:51, n4lq wrote:


Does Elecraft notify you before shipping to be sure you still want it?

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[Elecraft] Downloaded Firmware

2008-08-05 Thread David Robertson
H have had both success and failres downloading firmware using IE6 and IE7 but 
I have never had anyproblems at all using Firefox as long as you have the 
settings correct.

I have kept a record of all Beta firmware since 1.94 and general releases since 
1.96.
If anyone wants a copy of these please feel free to ask me off line and I will 
gladly comply.

73
Dave KD1NA

PS ESSB really works great.  Gotton good reports with good fidility and no 
distortion as long as you kept the compression down to around 25. (Using a 
cheap dynimic microphone).
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

2008-08-05 Thread Kenneth A. Christiansen

I used a 5 volt regulator on my MFJ 4225 to slow down the fan. This allows
the fan to start reliably at any voltage. I have run mine and my K2-100 this
way for at least 5 years with no problem on SSB, CW and DIGITAL.

73
Ken W0CZ

Bill NZ0T Wrote
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[Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
My K3 appears to have developed a power switch problem - it won't turn  
off.
While away on Scout camp last week, I allowed another 2 hams to work  
the K3 while I was not present (one is quite young and the other an  
adult) - later on, one of them noticed that the K3 had turned itself  
on (after they had turned it off and walked away). The K3 was working  
correctly for the first few days and as far as I know, was not  
'bounced' around while sitting on the table during the week. All  
functions appear correct except for this.


After investigation, I found I can not turn it off. Pressing the power  
button results in one of the following behaviours:


Most common: LCD just shows background colour (light is on), LEDs are  
off, effectively the rig is off (no AF etc), but the LCD is not and I  
can't turn it back on with a press of the power button.


Occasionally: K3 turns off correctly, but then turns back within a  
matter of seconds.


Less occasionally: as above, but turns back on after a few minutes.

Rarely: Appears to turn off as per first scenario, but LCD flickers.

To resolve this, I have to pull out the power cord and plug it back  
in, in which case the K3 turns on - so it's like the power switch is  
permanently on.


This is not the ALARM function. In fact, I tried the alarm to see if  
it would turn on correctly - it won't, but it did bleep at me when I  
pulled the power out the back and plugged it back in.


I have tried a 'master reset' holding the power switch in, it make no  
different, doesn't reset and doesn't turn off etc.


In preparation for the reset, I went through and noted all the config  
settings, changing a couple on the way. After that, the K3 turned off  
ok, but came back on after a few minutes.


Holding the power switch while applying power results in the LEDs  
coming on, but nothing else.


I thought this might have been a problem with dampness, but the rig  
has been in my indoor shake for 3 days now. I also considered supply  
voltage, since at camp I was using a L/A battery, but its back on the  
13.615v supply now (I have a Medusa Research Power Analyzer).



I'm about to install the KRX3, so will be taking it apart, but would  
prefer to resolve this first.

Any suggestions?

This has been working perfectly since December.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it  
takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci


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[Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Roy Morris
Hello Lyle,
I personally am not experiencing the low SSB output on any band, but I am 
considering going from the 2.7K filters in the K3 and KRX3 (matching filters) 
to the 2.8K filters.  I may be asking for trouble by doing this.  Is there any 
indication as far as you know that the filters may be a part of the "10 meter 
SSB output power problem"?  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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[Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
My K3 appears to have developed a power switch problem - it won't turn  
off.
While away on Scout camp last week, I allowed another 2 hams to work  
the K3 while I was not present (one is quite young and the other an  
adult) - later on, one of them noticed that the K3 had turned itself  
on (after they had turned it off and walked away). The K3 was working  
correctly for the first few days and as far as I know, was not  
'bounced' around while sitting on the table during the week. All  
functions appear correct except for this.


After investigation, I found I can not turn it off. Pressing the power  
button results in one of the following behaviours:


Most common: LCD just shows background colour (light is on), LEDs are  
off, effectively the rig is off (no AF etc), but the LCD is not and I  
can't turn it back on with a press of the power button.


Occasionally: K3 turns off correctly, but then turns back within a  
matter of seconds.


Less occasionally: as above, but turns back on after a few minutes.

Rarely: Appears to turn off as per first scenario, but LCD flickers.

To resolve this, I have to pull out the power cord and plug it back  
in, in which case the K3 turns on - so it's like the power switch is  
permanently on.


This is not the ALARM function. In fact, I tried the alarm to see if  
it would turn on correctly - it won't, but it did bleep at me when I  
pulled the power out the back and plugged it back in.


I have tried a 'master reset' holding the power switch in, it make no  
different, doesn't reset and doesn't turn off etc.


In preparation for the reset, I went through and noted all the config  
settings, changing a couple on the way. After that, the K3 turned off  
ok, but came back on after a few minutes.


Holding the power switch while applying power results in the LEDs  
coming on, but nothing else.


I thought this might have been a problem with dampness, but the rig  
has been in my indoor shake for 3 days now. I also considered supply  
voltage, since at camp I was using a L/A battery, but its back on the  
13.615v supply now (I have a Medusa Research Power Analyzer).



I'm about to install the KRX3, so will be taking it apart, but would  
prefer to resolve this first.

Any suggestions?

This has been working perfectly since December.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it  
takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Done that twice now and no difference. I have not experienced any  
problems with the 'electronics' before.

--
There is no pillow so soft as a clear conscience. -French proverb

On 5 Aug 2008, at 14:57, Dave Martin wrote:


I'd try reloading the firmware, including the "DSP data tables".  My
#605 did some crazy things when it was new until I did this.
Apparently the K3 is subject to memory corruption.

73,
Dave
W5DHM


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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT: K2 LCD/Backlight query

2008-08-05 Thread Martin Evans
Hi Guys, built my K1 about 4 years ago and still performing like new, but
now on with my K2 serial No. 6563. I have a few queries on the LCD/backlight
installation. I think I understand the manual/errata but just want to make
sure since I have seen a few postings on this issue.

My backlight assembly has a very loose fitting label on the underside which
covers the whole surface and has text on it (part Nos etc)
The top side has a thin plastic film which again covers the whole surface.

Question: The manual says do not remove the backing from either side of the
diffuser. Does this mean just during installation or not at all.


My LCD display component has a film on the front glass which according to
the manual is peeled off later in construction, is this correct.
On the rear side there is a plastic film (silvery grey) stuck to the glass.
There are no lines on it (mentioned in the errata). Do I remove this film?

Apologies if this has already been covered in previous posts.

Really enjoying the build and has coincided with an injury to my Achilles
tendon (heel) which has put me off work for 10 weeks in a plaster cast so
plenty of time for K2 build!

Thanks guys

73s
Martin
M0KWV
K1 1534
K2 6563
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[Elecraft] OT: Beam info, please

2008-08-05 Thread George
Hello all:  

I have a three element Telrex 20 meter monoband (Yagi) beam at 75 feet.  I 
successfully added two 15 meter elements in between the three 20 meter elements 
in the same plane and on the same boom as the 20 meter elements.  As best I can 
measure, the addition of the 15 meter elements had no effect on the 20 meter 
beam.  ( no detectable swr change)  Both beams work very well.  

So here's my question:  I would like to remove the 15 meter elements and 
replace them with two elements for 30 meters, using a gamma match system.  Will 
the 30 meter elements have a detrimental effect on the 20 meter beam??  If so, 
I can move them up the mast and use a boom just for this new beam.  If I do 
that, what is the minimum seperation I should use?

Thanks 

George, n4ym
K2 # 4758
K3 # 340


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 question--TCXO or another filter?

2008-08-05 Thread michael taylor
On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 1:44 AM, Dave G4AON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The difference between TCXOs is 4ppm not 4 Hz. The standard TCXO can be +/-
> 250 Hz at 50 MHz, the optional one can be +/- 50 Hz at 50 MHz or perhaps +/-
> 25 Hz once the firmware is changed to allow the supplied calibration table
> to be used. Using the optional 1ppm TCXO in my K3 results in a typical

Thank you Dave (and others who corrected me in private), you are
correct I did make a mistake, the 5ppm / 1ppm ( 5E-6 / 1E-6) is
relative to the oscillator's frequency, 49.380 MHz, so the actual
expected frequency error (tolerance / stability) is as Dave gave
above.

-Michael, VE3TIX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Lyle Johnson

...Is there any
indication as far as you know that the filters may be a part
of the "10 meter SSB output power problem"?


The problem I have been aware of is the LSB/USB power output difference. 
 That seemed to be confined to 2.7 kHz filters, was related to the 
center frequency offset, and should be fixed in the latest beta firmware.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread aj9c
I have the 2.8 filter installed so the problem is not limited to the 2.7.

Mike/aj9c

 Lyle Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> > ...Is there any
> > indication as far as you know that the filters may be a part
> > of the "10 meter SSB output power problem"?
> 
> The problem I have been aware of is the LSB/USB power output difference. 
>   That seemed to be confined to 2.7 kHz filters, was related to the 
> center frequency offset, and should be fixed in the latest beta firmware.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lyle KK7P
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

Had the chance to listen to the Rob Sherwood presentation at Dayton Drake 
Forum 2008.  Very interesting but he had a couple of rather unflattering 
issues with the K3.  Looks like the output at both ends of the chain, RF 
and AF could be better, particularly the AF.

Looks like my subjective concerns about the hard audio were not misplaced. 
I'm not golden eared but they still work OK.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO 

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[Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options

2008-08-05 Thread Dave KQ3T

Hello, all,

I'm about to order a K1, and thought I'd ask your opinions about various 
options and configuration choices.


1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or 150kHz. 
My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, for the slower tuning rate.


2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a range of 
7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other coverage.


3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In particular, are 
they effective, and are any of them much easier to install during 
initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?

  A.  KAT1 Antenna Tuner
  B.  KNB1 Noise Blanker
  C.  KBT1 Battery Holder

Thanks and 73,

Dave KQ3T


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Re: [Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options

2008-08-05 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
Dave:
I have a K1 built it in 2003.

Tuning range, I tried 150 KHz,  too fast tuning. I played with it a bit and 
come up with about 80 KHz, seems very nice.

Noise Blanker, I have it. Helpful only sometimes.

Battery Holder, I did not get it.

ATU, works very well. Fed the antenna with ladder line and the BL2.

With a 88' dipole at 40'. I worked 48 states, 47 QSL. Got into ECN on both 40 
and 20 almost every time I tried. Very pleased with the K1.

Then moved and have to start all over again.

I have the 4 band board. Built it for 40, 30, 20, 17M.

Since then I have changed the 17M to 15M, heard VP6DX on 15.

I am located in north GA.

73, Ty, K1 #1423, K3 #696


--- On Tue, 8/5/08, Dave KQ3T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> From: Dave KQ3T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options
> To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
> Date: Tuesday, August 5, 2008, 12:06 PM
> Hello, all,
> 
> I'm about to order a K1, and thought I'd ask your
> opinions about various 
> options and configuration choices.
> 
> 1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz
> or 150kHz. 
> My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, for the
> slower tuning rate.
> 
> 2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a
> range of 
> 7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other
> coverage.
> 
> 3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In
> particular, are 
> they effective, and are any of them much easier to install
> during 
> initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?
>A.  KAT1 Antenna Tuner
>B.  KNB1 Noise Blanker
>C.  KBT1 Battery Holder
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Dave KQ3T



  
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[Elecraft] Re: K1: Advice on Options

2008-08-05 Thread Dave G4AON

Dave

1. I find my K1 a bit coarse on tuning even when set to the 75 KHz 
tuning range.

2. Can't help, here in Europe CW only runs from 7.00 to 7.035 or so on 40m.
3. A: KAT1 only has limited range but it is effective when tuning 
antennas provided you prune your antenna to suit. It works fine on most 
antennas and is not a problem with most reasonable antennas. I slightly 
modified my KAT1 to give better tuning on my home doublet on 80m/40m, 
details at: http://www.astromag.co.uk/pdfs/g4aon_kat1_mods.pdf

3. B: Not got one or any pulse noise in need of blanking.
3. C: I personally don't think the battery holder option is worthwhile, 
using 8 NiMh cells (internal battery holder limit) would restrict the 
power output to about 3 Watts, although 1.5 Volt cells would be OK as 
they give 12 Volts. I've heard of issues with freshly charged warm/hot 
batteries causing the K1 to drift when first fitted, it may or may not 
be an issue. I use an external pack of 10 x NiMh cells in a small 
plastic project box, this is another box to carry but does allow for 
full output from the K1.


You didn't mention band/board choice... I have the four band board set 
at 40/30/20/15 and a two band board with 80/40. If you do plan to change 
boards and have the internal ATU, one tip is to thread a rubber band 
through each of the spacers to hold them on their bolts while swapping 
boards. If you go that route you will see what I mean.


I have the wide range tilt stand and that is quite neat for using the 
rig on a bench with the shorter arms.


73 Dave, G4AON
K1, K2 and K3/100 (no KX1...)
__

I'm about to order a K1, and thought I'd ask your opinions about various
options and configuration choices.

1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or 150kHz.
My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, for the slower tuning rate.

2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a range of
7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other coverage.

3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In particular, are
they effective, and are any of them much easier to install during
initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?
A. KAT1 Antenna Tuner
B. KNB1 Noise Blanker
C. KBT1 Battery Holder

Thanks and 73,

Dave KQ3T
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[Elecraft] Come join the NAQCC!!

2008-08-05 Thread NAQCC
Come join the NAQCC and help us in our mission to preserve and encourage CW 
activity on our amateur bands.  The NAQCC (North American QRP CW Club) is for 
ALL CW enthusiasts around the world.

Our members include "Big Gun" contesters, hard-core QRPers, experimenters, 
ragchewers and SWLers; young and old alike.  As different as we may be, we all 
share one thing in common, and that is our love for CW.

We welcome all who want to help support CW and have at least some interest in 
using QRP from time-to-time.  Our club runs monthly sprints and challenges. 
Plus we sponsor some additional special on-air activities during the year.

Membership is free and once you join you're automatically a lifetime member!  
So sign up today and help us keep CW alive and well.

Visit our web site at http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/.  You'll find info on our 
various activities plus an online membership application.

We look forward to your support and hope to soon see your call added to our 
membership roster.

73,
Paul/KD2MX
NAQCC Membership Recruiter

On behalf of:
Tom, WY3H - NAQCC President
John, K3WWP - NAQCC Vice President
Larry, W2LJ - NAQCC Asst. Publicity Director 
Dave, VA3RJ/VE3JDR - NAQCC Publicity Officer
Norm, VE3SIC, Canadian & DX Publicity Officer



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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
I'm not exactly sure what it is but with the K1 connected to the RX_OUT jack
then switching to RX_ANT and getting the antenna connected to the K1 I often
find that I prefer the sound of the sigs on the K1 to that of the K3.  But
the K3 is a LOT easier to get on freq (I selected the 150Khz bandwidth on my
K1 so the knob is FAST :)) and I also have a lot more options available to
me on the K3 to play with the signal.  But I do admit that there are often
times that after playing with the signal on the K3 for a bit I prefer the
way the K1 sounds out of the box.  The cool thing about any sort of
shortcoming you find in the K3 is that you never know how long it will be
there.  With any other radio you know it'll be there forever.  With the K3
it's kinda like an adventure... HIHI.   

I'm having fun... :) 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Harris
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:45 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

G'day,

Had the chance to listen to the Rob Sherwood presentation at Dayton Drake 
Forum 2008.  Very interesting but he had a couple of rather unflattering 
issues with the K3.  Looks like the output at both ends of the chain, RF 
and AF could be better, particularly the AF.

Looks like my subjective concerns about the hard audio were not misplaced. 
I'm not golden eared but they still work OK.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO 

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RE: [Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
I have the 150Khz range selected and I'm not sure which I prefer.  You lose
the ability to get to 10.0Mhz and I sometimes use that to check frequency or
just to generally check the rig and stuff.  The 150Khz does make the knob
awfully touchy but I'm into fiddly knobs.  I find that many of the older
guys using the rig during this last field day were turned off by it and were
upset that they couldn't adjust the tuning rate.  They kept telling me there
had to be a way to change the rate.  I told them they were holding a POT and
they finally got it... :)

I personally find the tuner invaluable!  But it's also quite the retrofit.
Not a big deal at all.  The noise blanker is just about the same.  I think I
had to remove a component to do the NB and the ATU was just pulling a wire
out of a connector.  

I can't speak on the internal battery adapter but personally after looking
at it and the fact that it puts in a smaller  speaker and changes a bunch of
stuff I think I'd prefer an external battery with a connector thrown on it
to allow it to be plugged into the rear jack.  Having to open the top just
to get to the batteries would be a bit annoying.  Although I end up having
to take the thing apart anyway every time someone new operates it cause they
wanna see it.  This last field day was great.  I went to setup the K1 on the
bench for him to play with.  The guy told me life was too short for QRP so I
set the K3 to 5 watts when he wasn't looking.  After he broke a few pileups
I told him he's been running 5 watts for the last 4 or 5 hours. :)

Have fun with the K1... Its been one of my favs!



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave KQ3T
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:06 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options

Hello, all,

I'm about to order a K1, and thought I'd ask your opinions about various 
options and configuration choices.

1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or 150kHz. 
My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, for the slower tuning rate.

2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a range of 
7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other coverage.

3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In particular, are 
they effective, and are any of them much easier to install during 
initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?
   A.  KAT1 Antenna Tuner
   B.  KNB1 Noise Blanker
   C.  KBT1 Battery Holder

Thanks and 73,

Dave KQ3T


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem

2008-08-05 Thread David Yarnes

David,

Your problem sounds EXACTLY like the one I had with my K3 (#96).  I went 
through the same sequence of events as you seem to be experiencing. 
Initially, the K3 started turning back on by itself; then later it wouldn't 
turn off at all, and had to be unplugged from power to turn it off 
completely.  When it wouldn't turn off, the LCD remained dimly lit, but no 
audio, etc.  Removing power and then plugging power back in again 
effectively recycled the radio, but the "power button" was not used at all. 
For a time the K3 would suddenly return to normal operation with the power 
switch functioning correctly, but this happened only a few times, and didn't 
last for very many cycles.   Other than the problem of powering the radio on 
and off, the radio worked just fine.  All of this sounds like what you are 
also experiencing.  Gary Surrency at Elecraft had me check various voltages, 
etc., but nothing turned up the problem.  They even sent me a new front 
panel to install, but that wasn't the problem either.  Ultimately I had to 
return the K3 to Elecraft, as they felt it was probably something on the 
main board that would have to be serviced.  The repair itself was performed 
by Rene in Aptos.  He determined that there was a problem with a "leaky" 
component, on the I/O board I believe.


In any event, Elecraft is aware of this issue, and can readily solve it. 
Hopefully they can do it now without you having to return the radio, which 
would be more of a problem for you since you are in the U.K.  I suggest you 
contact either Gary or Rene at Elecraft support.  You might mention to them 
that we have corresponded, and that your problem seems identical to the one 
I experienced.  In your case they may just send you a new I/O board, 
assuming I am correct that it was where my problem existed.  There 
apparently have been a couple of other similar cases that may not have 
involved the I/O board, but still had the same symptoms.  Changing the front 
panel apparently solved at least one problem that I am aware of.  If it is 
the I/O board or front panel, you probably wouldn't need to send the radio 
back to Elecraft.  The upside of returning the entire radio is that, besides 
fixing your problem, they will go over it thoroughly, and probably make any 
mods that have come out since your radio was shipped.  They did that for me. 
My K3 is performing perfectly now.


Hope this helps, or at least gives you some comfort.  In any event, I doubt 
seriously that your friends who borrowed your K3 did anything wrong.  It was 
just coincidence that the problem occurred while in their possession.  I bet 
they are feeling awful, thinking they might have caused the problem.


Let me know if you have any other questions.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: ""Crafters"" 
Cc: "K3Support" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:20 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem


My K3 appears to have developed a power switch problem - it won't turn 
off.
While away on Scout camp last week, I allowed another 2 hams to work  the 
K3 while I was not present (one is quite young and the other an  adult) - 
later on, one of them noticed that the K3 had turned itself  on (after 
they had turned it off and walked away). The K3 was working  correctly for 
the first few days and as far as I know, was not  'bounced' around while 
sitting on the table during the week. All  functions appear correct except 
for this.


After investigation, I found I can not turn it off. Pressing the power 
button results in one of the following behaviours:


Most common: LCD just shows background colour (light is on), LEDs are 
off, effectively the rig is off (no AF etc), but the LCD is not and I 
can't turn it back on with a press of the power button.


Occasionally: K3 turns off correctly, but then turns back within a  matter 
of seconds.


Less occasionally: as above, but turns back on after a few minutes.

Rarely: Appears to turn off as per first scenario, but LCD flickers.

To resolve this, I have to pull out the power cord and plug it back  in, 
in which case the K3 turns on - so it's like the power switch is 
permanently on.


This is not the ALARM function. In fact, I tried the alarm to see if  it 
would turn on correctly - it won't, but it did bleep at me when I  pulled 
the power out the back and plugged it back in.


I have tried a 'master reset' holding the power switch in, it make no 
different, doesn't reset and doesn't turn off etc.


In preparation for the reset, I went through and noted all the config 
settings, changing a couple on the way. After that, the K3 turned off  ok, 
but came back on after a few minutes.


Holding the power switch while applying power results in the LEDs  coming 
on, but nothing else.


I thought this might have been a problem with dampness, but the rig  has 
been in my indoor shake for 3 days now. I also considered supply  voltage

Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem

2008-08-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
David, thank you for that, from other mails, it looks very much like  
the KIO3 board - removing it solves the proble, putting it back in and  
the problem comes back.
Lyle has suggested just cleaning it might help, but I'd prefer to get  
a replacement board since I think the problem would return at some  
point.


Of my friends, I think only the adult would have been aware of the  
problem and I'll let him know the outcome. I in no way blamed them. I  
originally considered it might have been some odd combination of use,  
but after investigations, clearly not.  As you say, purely  
coincidence, perhaps brought on by field conditions and made worse by  
not being present when the fault first appeared.

--
By all means marry. If you get a good wife, you'll be happy. If you  
get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher. -Socrates


On 5 Aug 2008, at 19:01, David Yarnes wrote:


David,

Your problem sounds EXACTLY like the one I had with my K3 (#96).  I  
went through the same sequence of events as you seem to be  
experiencing. Initially, the K3 started turning back on by itself;  
then later it wouldn't turn off at all, and had to be unplugged from  
power to turn it off completely.  When it wouldn't turn off, the LCD  
remained dimly lit, but no audio, etc.  Removing power and then  
plugging power back in again effectively recycled the radio, but the  
"power button" was not used at all. For a time the K3 would suddenly  
return to normal operation with the power switch functioning  
correctly, but this happened only a few times, and didn't last for  
very many cycles.   Other than the problem of powering the radio on  
and off, the radio worked just fine.  All of this sounds like what  
you are also experiencing.  Gary Surrency at Elecraft had me check  
various voltages, etc., but nothing turned up the problem.  They  
even sent me a new front panel to install, but that wasn't the  
problem either.  Ultimately I had to return the K3 to Elecraft, as  
they felt it was probably something on the main board that would  
have to be serviced.  The repair itself was performed by Rene in  
Aptos.  He determined that there was a problem with a "leaky"  
component, on the I/O board I believe.


In any event, Elecraft is aware of this issue, and can readily solve  
it. Hopefully they can do it now without you having to return the  
radio, which would be more of a problem for you since you are in the  
U.K.  I suggest you contact either Gary or Rene at Elecraft  
support.  You might mention to them that we have corresponded, and  
that your problem seems identical to the one I experienced.  In your  
case they may just send you a new I/O board, assuming I am correct  
that it was where my problem existed.  There apparently have been a  
couple of other similar cases that may not have involved the I/O  
board, but still had the same symptoms.  Changing the front panel  
apparently solved at least one problem that I am aware of.  If it is  
the I/O board or front panel, you probably wouldn't need to send the  
radio back to Elecraft.  The upside of returning the entire radio is  
that, besides fixing your problem, they will go over it thoroughly,  
and probably make any mods that have come out since your radio was  
shipped.  They did that for me. My K3 is performing perfectly now.


Hope this helps, or at least gives you some comfort.  In any event,  
I doubt seriously that your friends who borrowed your K3 did  
anything wrong.  It was just coincidence that the problem occurred  
while in their possession.  I bet they are feeling awful, thinking  
they might have caused the problem.


Let me know if you have any other questions.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>

To: ""Crafters"" 
Cc: "K3Support" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:20 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] power switch problem


My K3 appears to have developed a power switch problem - it won't  
turn off.
While away on Scout camp last week, I allowed another 2 hams to  
work  the K3 while I was not present (one is quite young and the  
other an  adult) - later on, one of them noticed that the K3 had  
turned itself  on (after they had turned it off and walked away).  
The K3 was working  correctly for the first few days and as far as  
I know, was not  'bounced' around while sitting on the table during  
the week. All  functions appear correct except for this.


After investigation, I found I can not turn it off. Pressing the  
power button results in one of the following behaviours:


Most common: LCD just shows background colour (light is on), LEDs  
are off, effectively the rig is off (no AF etc), but the LCD is not  
and I can't turn it back on with a press of the power button.


Occasionally: K3 turns off correctly, but then turns back within a   
matter of seconds.


Less occasionally: as above, but turns back on after a few minutes.

Rarely: Appears to turn off as per first

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Jim Miller
Down to the single digit figits - hoping for mine to ship in "days".

Wouldn't something like this be affected by equalization?

73, Jim

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mike Harris'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio


> I'm not exactly sure what it is but with the K1 connected to the RX_OUT
jack
> then switching to RX_ANT and getting the antenna connected to the K1 I
often
> find that I prefer the sound of the sigs on the K1 to that of the K3.  But
> the K3 is a LOT easier to get on freq (I selected the 150Khz bandwidth on
my
> K1 so the knob is FAST :)) and I also have a lot more options available to
> me on the K3 to play with the signal.  But I do admit that there are often
> times that after playing with the signal on the K3 for a bit I prefer the
> way the K1 sounds out of the box.  The cool thing about any sort of
> shortcoming you find in the K3 is that you never know how long it will be
> there.  With any other radio you know it'll be there forever.  With the K3
> it's kinda like an adventure... HIHI.
>
> I'm having fun... :)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Harris
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:45 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio
>
> G'day,
>
> Had the chance to listen to the Rob Sherwood presentation at Dayton Drake
> Forum 2008.  Very interesting but he had a couple of rather unflattering
> issues with the K3.  Looks like the output at both ends of the chain, RF
> and AF could be better, particularly the AF.
>
> Looks like my subjective concerns about the hard audio were not misplaced.
> I'm not golden eared but they still work OK.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Toby Deinhardt

Hi Lyle,

I do not know if we all might be talking about various ills with similar 
symptoms. It might be that more than effect might be behind the various 
observations, imho.


What I have, to the best of my memory, observed in various firmware 
versions is that there is/was a tendency for the K3 to have lower output 
in SSB on both(?) sidebands than in CW or tune modes. The output is at 
times 1dB less and at times 6 or more dB lower. This effect is stronger 
at lower power levels than at higher and usually occurred after changing 
the power level request while in SSB.


This was at times a major fubar, but in the newer versions of the K3 
firmware on my K3 (#67) the situation has greatly improved. Because I 
had sent more than one mail to Elecraft, in the distant past, about this 
and the situation, at least for me, has been improving, I did not want 
to harp about it.


For example, during our expedition to OY in early July such weirdness 
only popped up very rarely. I have not tested the newest beta firmware 
for this (yet).


I have the 2.7kHz filter in my K3.

vy 73 de toby, dd5fz



Lyle Johnson wrote:
The problem I have been aware of is the LSB/USB power output difference. 
 That seemed to be confined to 2.7 kHz filters, was related to the 
center frequency offset, and should be fixed in the latest beta firmware.

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[Elecraft] KX1 # 2047 comes alive!

2008-08-05 Thread Sante - IK0HBN

Hi everybody,
I just finished to assemble my KX1 with autotuner and 30/80 option 
and I have one question for you:
"As the the manual has been written for 20-30 and 40 meters bands, 
the lenghts for a long wire are given for those bands. How long 
should it be for having a good compromise even on 80 mtrs? I'd like 
to have just one wire for backpacking"


Thanks in advance
Sante, IK0HBN

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Dave G4AON
I use TX equalisation with my K3 to improve on my deep gravelly voice. 
It sounds far better than my TS-480 with a similar microphone on both 
transceivers (Kenwood MC-43S on the K3, stock mic on the '480), the 
TS-480 has limited equalisation on TX but even with that it's well below 
the quality of the K3 audio which sounds to my ears close to as good as 
it's going to get from my voice. Unsolicited reports on the quality of 
my K3 TX audio are commonplace and I've never received reports such as 
those at any time in my 37 years of operating... I don't think there is 
anything wrong with the K3 TX audio.


On receive the only "quality" receiver I have for comparison is a Drake 
R4A and the K3 sounds better than that, and the R4A isn't at all 
unpleasant to listen to... The Drake meets specification and has new 
smoothing capacitors... The K3 receiver has an open sound which can 
sound harsh when combined with a lot of background hash in the form of 
white noise from a typical domestic situation where you are surrounded 
by houses with computers, switched mode PSUs, etc. Under clean band 
conditions that openness sounds great when listening to SSB with the 
same DSP bandwidth as the roofing filter (2.8 KHz in my case). I use no 
equalisation on receive.


Bottom line to me is the K3's audio is fine. And no, I'm not on 
commission from Elecraft!


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

"Wouldn't something like this be affected by equalization?"
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Ian Maude

Toby Deinhardt wrote:

Hi Lyle,

I do not know if we all might be talking about various ills with 
similar symptoms. It might be that more than effect might be behind 
the various observations, imho.


What I have, to the best of my memory, observed in various firmware 
versions is that there is/was a tendency for the K3 to have lower 
output in SSB on both(?) sidebands than in CW or tune modes. The 
output is at times 1dB less and at times 6 or more dB lower. This 
effect is stronger at lower power levels than at higher and usually 
occurred after changing the power level request while in SSB.

Have you tried setting Config: TXG VCE to 3.0dB?

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
You know I was thinking that the K1 would have a much narrower AF bandwidth
and if I remember right I think I remember seeing some caps in the feedback
loop that would cause some stuff like that.  But then in the K3 there are
all the IF filters and DSP IF filters that should be doing that same thing.
I mean I could mess with the RX EQ and narrow it all down around sidetone
pitch but I don't find it to make a lot of difference because as I
understand it a lot of those frequencies shouldn't be there anyway if you
have the filter set pretty narrow.  I usually run around 250Hz wide on both
rigs when in QSO.  And the K3 does have the 250Hz 8-pole filter installed.  

I also don't really mess with the RX EQ much other than cutting out some of
the high stuff that kinda grates on my ears.  I find that not to be annoying
when ever I listen to voice stuff and that makes for an acceptable all
around RX EQ setting.  I think that if there are ever per mode RX EQ
settings I'll play with that feature more.  

Congrats on your K3 shipping soon!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Miller
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

Down to the single digit figits - hoping for mine to ship in "days".

Wouldn't something like this be affected by equalization?

73, Jim

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mike Harris'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio


> I'm not exactly sure what it is but with the K1 connected to the RX_OUT
jack
> then switching to RX_ANT and getting the antenna connected to the K1 I
often
> find that I prefer the sound of the sigs on the K1 to that of the K3.  But
> the K3 is a LOT easier to get on freq (I selected the 150Khz bandwidth on
my
> K1 so the knob is FAST :)) and I also have a lot more options available to
> me on the K3 to play with the signal.  But I do admit that there are often
> times that after playing with the signal on the K3 for a bit I prefer the
> way the K1 sounds out of the box.  The cool thing about any sort of
> shortcoming you find in the K3 is that you never know how long it will be
> there.  With any other radio you know it'll be there forever.  With the K3
> it's kinda like an adventure... HIHI.
>
> I'm having fun... :)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Harris
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:45 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio
>
> G'day,
>
> Had the chance to listen to the Rob Sherwood presentation at Dayton Drake
> Forum 2008.  Very interesting but he had a couple of rather unflattering
> issues with the K3.  Looks like the output at both ends of the chain, RF
> and AF could be better, particularly the AF.
>
> Looks like my subjective concerns about the hard audio were not misplaced.
> I'm not golden eared but they still work OK.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
>
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
I forgot to mention one thing that I found is that running the Dual PB
filter actually helps make the K3 sound a lot better in my opinion.  The
audio on the K3 seems to get kinda harsh at the narrower bandwidths as all
the static is all centered into a relatively narrow band of frequencies.
But when you turn on the DUAL PB filter things get a bit more toward white
noise and a lot less shrill to listen to.  I also find that the AFX set to
around 3 can help a bit on some sigs too (but only when I'm using my
headphones)...  I suppose perhaps its time that I look for a good set of
passive stereo speakers.

-Original Message-
From: Brett Howard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 2:48 PM
To: 'Jim Miller'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

You know I was thinking that the K1 would have a much narrower AF bandwidth
and if I remember right I think I remember seeing some caps in the feedback
loop that would cause some stuff like that.  But then in the K3 there are
all the IF filters and DSP IF filters that should be doing that same thing.
I mean I could mess with the RX EQ and narrow it all down around sidetone
pitch but I don't find it to make a lot of difference because as I
understand it a lot of those frequencies shouldn't be there anyway if you
have the filter set pretty narrow.  I usually run around 250Hz wide on both
rigs when in QSO.  And the K3 does have the 250Hz 8-pole filter installed.  

I also don't really mess with the RX EQ much other than cutting out some of
the high stuff that kinda grates on my ears.  I find that not to be annoying
when ever I listen to voice stuff and that makes for an acceptable all
around RX EQ setting.  I think that if there are ever per mode RX EQ
settings I'll play with that feature more.  

Congrats on your K3 shipping soon!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Miller
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio

Down to the single digit figits - hoping for mine to ship in "days".

Wouldn't something like this be affected by equalization?

73, Jim

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mike Harris'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio


> I'm not exactly sure what it is but with the K1 connected to the RX_OUT
jack
> then switching to RX_ANT and getting the antenna connected to the K1 I
often
> find that I prefer the sound of the sigs on the K1 to that of the K3.  But
> the K3 is a LOT easier to get on freq (I selected the 150Khz bandwidth on
my
> K1 so the knob is FAST :)) and I also have a lot more options available to
> me on the K3 to play with the signal.  But I do admit that there are often
> times that after playing with the signal on the K3 for a bit I prefer the
> way the K1 sounds out of the box.  The cool thing about any sort of
> shortcoming you find in the K3 is that you never know how long it will be
> there.  With any other radio you know it'll be there forever.  With the K3
> it's kinda like an adventure... HIHI.
>
> I'm having fun... :)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Harris
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:45 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio
>
> G'day,
>
> Had the chance to listen to the Rob Sherwood presentation at Dayton Drake
> Forum 2008.  Very interesting but he had a couple of rather unflattering
> issues with the K3.  Looks like the output at both ends of the chain, RF
> and AF could be better, particularly the AF.
>
> Looks like my subjective concerns about the hard audio were not misplaced.
> I'm not golden eared but they still work OK.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1: Advice on Options

2008-08-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

A comment on your item #2 - while the VFO in the K1 can be modified to 
have the bands begin 25 kHz up from the lower band edge, if you do that 
for one band, then all bands will start up 25 kHz.  That is a problem 
with 30 meters where the normal tuning range begins at 10,100 kHz, and 
most of the CW operation is between 10,100 and 10,125 kHz.  If you move 
all bands up by 25 kHz, you will not have a usable CW tuning range on 30 
meters.
Alternately, one could leave the VFO frequency as specified in the 
manual and order custom crystals to place the start of the band 25 kHz 
up from normal, but that is an expensive undertaking.


Note that the 4 band filter board must include 30 meters as one of its 
bands.  There are only 2 low pass filters on the 4 band board and only 
40 and 30 meters plus two bands of the 20m, 17m, 15m set are the only 
possible choices.  The 2 band board can be configured for any 2 bands - 
80 thru 15m although there are a few 2 band boards that have been 
modified to work on 160m and 10 meters.


73,
Don W3FPR

Dave KQ3T wrote:

Hello, all,

I'm about to order a K1, and thought I'd ask your opinions about 
various options and configuration choices.


1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or 150kHz. 
My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, for the slower tuning rate.


2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a range of 
7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other coverage.


3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In particular, are 
they effective, and are any of them much easier to install during 
initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?

  A.  KAT1 Antenna Tuner
  B.  KNB1 Noise Blanker
  C.  KBT1 Battery Holder

Thanks and 73,

Dave KQ3T


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 
270.5.12/1592 - Release Date: 8/5/2008 6:03 AM





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Alexandr Kobranov

Friends,
maybe we have to sort problems with SSB power level to permanent 
problems and temporary problems.
Permanent lower level is possible to cure via VCE gain setting (I 
suppose & hope).
Temporary problems are more complicated. I remember my problems with 
miliwat output levels via KRX3 vith certain version of F/W, when firts 
(after switching on) SSB TX attempt was 6 - 10dB lower below CW or 
TUNE level. Just after one dit or dash in CW mode and going back to 
SSB it was OK, level was like on CW (measured in 2tone test). It was 
caused by combination of f/w level (maybe corrupted) and using TUN PWR 
level other then -norm-.
Shortly after u/g to 2.10 (if I remember correctly) and switching TUN 
PWR to -norm- this problem on miliwat output level dissapered. (and 
now I am using 100mW on ANT port so not checked miliwat KXV3 output 
intensively during last weeks with newest f/w).
Also I am not sure if such kind of temporary problems are also 
reported with 10W version. (SSB power temporary dropped).
Or is it mainly with 100W version? Any other experience with miliwat 
output?
Hope in Elecraft support they are tracking all reports and testing 
reported behaviour to keep clear picture and plans for possible f/w 
updates/bug elimination.
Maybe will be good to see some more comments from Elecraft support to 
reduce individual doubts etc...


73!
lexa, ok1dst
K3/10 #727




Ian Maude napsal(a):

Toby Deinhardt wrote:

Hi Lyle,

I do not know if we all might be talking about various ills with 
similar symptoms. It might be that more than effect might be behind 
the various observations, imho.


What I have, to the best of my memory, observed in various firmware 
versions is that there is/was a tendency for the K3 to have lower 
output in SSB on both(?) sidebands than in CW or tune modes. The 
output is at times 1dB less and at times 6 or more dB lower. This 
effect is stronger at lower power levels than at higher and usually 
occurred after changing the power level request while in SSB.

Have you tried setting Config: TXG VCE to 3.0dB?

73 Ian


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[Elecraft] kat100-1/kpa100/kio2 for sale

2008-08-05 Thread Chris

i have for sale unbuilt kits for use with k2
1 x k2/100 integration kit kpa 100
1 x 150w auto atu kat100-1
1 x host control aux. i/o
all these kits are new unopened
and untuched
cost from the states $737+ shipping & inport vat
my price £420 inc postage
contact chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
tel.
mob 07513496566

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[Elecraft] Trade my KDSP2 for your KAT2 + $60

2008-08-05 Thread Vic K2VCO

I have a built and working KDSP2.

If you have an unbuilt or built/working KAT2 and $60 (the kit price 
difference), I would like to trade.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Mike Harris
Hi Dave,

In the presentation the TX element was not necessarily TX audio quality, 
rather the less than stellar intermod figure, however, I believe this has 
been accepted as typical of a low voltage 100W output PA.

The RX audio issue, which is probably more important, comes up in the last 
eight minutes and relates to high levels of distortion in the audio amp, 
up to and beyond an 11th harmonic at 7kHz. on a CW signal and a 9th order 
product on two tones only -40dB down.

Maybe this explains why, to my ear, even after cropping the high end of 
passband in DSP at 2400Hz on SSB it still sounds harsh.  The junk is 
apparently being generated post DSP by the af amp.  One can only speculate 
on the consequences of a CW pile-up.

The good news is, according to Rob Sherwood, that it is fixable once the 
cause has been identified.  The good news is that the good folks at 
elecraft are aware of the problem and are presumably on the case.  The bad 
news is it's probably hardware not code.

Didn't someone also mention that line output above a certain figure was 
also distorted.  I think the speculation there pointed to the af 
transformers.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


- Original Message - 
From: "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 4:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio


|I use TX equalisation with my K3 to improve on my deep gravelly voice.
| It sounds far better than my TS-480 with a similar microphone on both
| transceivers (Kenwood MC-43S on the K3, stock mic on the '480), the
| TS-480 has limited equalisation on TX but even with that it's well below
| the quality of the K3 audio which sounds to my ears close to as good as
| it's going to get from my voice. Unsolicited reports on the quality of
| my K3 TX audio are commonplace and I've never received reports such as
| those at any time in my 37 years of operating... I don't think there is
| anything wrong with the K3 TX audio.
|
| On receive the only "quality" receiver I have for comparison is a Drake
| R4A and the K3 sounds better than that, and the R4A isn't at all
| unpleasant to listen to... The Drake meets specification and has new
| smoothing capacitors... The K3 receiver has an open sound which can
| sound harsh when combined with a lot of background hash in the form of
| white noise from a typical domestic situation where you are surrounded
| by houses with computers, switched mode PSUs, etc. Under clean band
| conditions that openness sounds great when listening to SSB with the
| same DSP bandwidth as the roofing filter (2.8 KHz in my case). I use no
| equalisation on receive.
|
| Bottom line to me is the K3's audio is fine. And no, I'm not on
| commission from Elecraft!
|
| 73 Dave, G4AON
| K3/100 #80
|
| "Wouldn't something like this be affected by equalization?"

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 # 2047 comes alive!

2008-08-05 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Hi Sante:

Congratulations on your new KX1 ! If you are talking about a 'random length'
long wire antenna, I'm betting you could get away with 66 feet if you lay a
66 foot counterpoise on the ground. The other idea I have is a 135 foot
center-fed doublet fed with window line - the small stuff for backpacking
would be 300 ohms. You could use the BNC to mini-binding posts connector by
Pomona and you should be off to the races !

Have fun !

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sante - IK0HBN
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 # 2047 comes alive!

Hi everybody,
I just finished to assemble my KX1 with autotuner and 30/80 option 
and I have one question for you:
"As the the manual has been written for 20-30 and 40 meters bands, 
the lenghts for a long wire are given for those bands. How long 
should it be for having a good compromise even on 80 mtrs? I'd like 
to have just one wire for backpacking"

Thanks in advance
Sante, IK0HBN

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Geoffrey Downs
Would be interesting to know the detail of what Rob Sherwood said, but I 
agree with you, Dave. The tx and rx audio on my K3 sounds cleaner, brighter 
and clearer to me than my now obsolescent FT1000MP Field even before 
applying any equalisation. I use either a headset or a couple of small 
external computer speakers.


73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK

- Original Message - 
From: "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio



Bottom line to me is the K3's audio is fine. And no, I'm not on commission 
from Elecraft!


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Alexandr Kobranov


Temporary problems are more complicated. I remember my problems with 
miliwat output levels via KRX3 vith certain version of F/W, 


correction -  should be KXV3 

my waiting for KRX3 is so intensive
:-)

L. -dst-
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[Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting

2008-08-05 Thread Vic Abell
I just completed K3 1162 and am interested in setting
its NR to an optimal value for combating summer QRN.
I am currently using "F 1--4" with some success, but
would like to hear about the settings others prefer.

Any other advice on other ways to reduce QRN and back
ground noise with K3 features would be welcome, too.

73,

Vic-W9RGB

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[Elecraft] K2 - LCD front panel meters for KPA100/KAT100 in EC2

2008-08-05 Thread Andrey Stoev

Hey guys,
I posted on my blog ( http://blog.kotarak.net/ ) some text and pictures of 
KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 modification I did a few years ago.
I installed a couple of LCD meters on the front panel of the EC2. This is a 
fun project and easy to do! Its been working just fine all those years.


73
de Andrey, AE1Z 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Bob Cunnings
If you listen to Sherwood's presentation, you'd hear him state that
the distortion problem he discusses occurs only when driving a low
impedance (speaker) load. If driving a high Z load like, say, powered
speakers, or using headphones, there is no problem.

So that might explain your observations.

Bob NW8L

On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 4:29 PM, Geoffrey Downs
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Would be interesting to know the detail of what Rob Sherwood said, but I
> agree with you, Dave. The tx and rx audio on my K3 sounds cleaner, brighter
> and clearer to me than my now obsolescent FT1000MP Field even before
> applying any equalisation. I use either a headset or a couple of small
> external computer speakers.
>
> 73 to all
>
> Geoff
> G3UCK
>
> - Original Message - From: "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 9:55 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio
>
>
>
>> Bottom line to me is the K3's audio is fine. And no, I'm not on commission
>> from Elecraft!
>>
>> 73 Dave, G4AON
>> K3/100 #80
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Audio

2008-08-05 Thread Jerry Flanders

Sherwood's talk is at http://www.sherweng.com/
click on the one at top left (

Roofing Filters, Transmitted BW & Receiver Performnce,


Dayton Drake Forum 2008, Slide Show with Audio). It is a wmv movie of 
his talk.


Jerry W4UK

At 06:29 PM 8/5/2008, Geoffrey Downs wrote:
Would be interesting to know the detail of what Rob Sherwood said, 
but I agree with you, Dave. The tx and rx audio on my K3 sounds 
cleaner, brighter and clearer to me than my now obsolescent FT1000MP 
Field even before applying any equalisation. I use either a headset 
or a couple of small external computer speakers.


73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power out

2008-08-05 Thread Chuck - AE4CW

I have previously documented the SSB power drop problem to elecraft and
understand it's on Wayne's list to resolve.  I used the 2-tone test and
adjusted the 2-tone peak power to equal CW TUNE power (using an LP-100A).  I
found three things trigger the SSB power drop: 1) a power change even if you
return to the original power; 2) pressing ATU TUNE, and; 3) a band change. 
On MCU 2.20 the drop was as little as 15% on 160M and as much as 39% on 10M. 
All these tests were run at 100 watts requested from the K3.  And I am using
the 2.7 KHz 5-pole filter.

I just loaded MCU 2.23 and re-ran the tests.  The results are considerably
improved.  On 160, 80, 40 and 30M's there was no drop at all.  The worst
band was 12M (20%).  The others were 60M (9%), 20M (3%), 17M (5%), 15M
(14%), 10M (11%) and 6M (13%).  I spot checked these results with voice
input and saw the same results thought clearly not as precise and repeatable
as the 2-Tone test.

In addition the peak powers on USB and LSB were virtually identical (within
1 watt in every case).  I'm not positive if this is an accurate indication
as the 2-Tone test help text says to use LSB (not USB).

In any case this looks like a significant step forward, so we can hope for
continured improvement across all the bands.

Chuck, AE4CW



Lyle Johnson wrote:
> 
> If you experience this problem (low output on SSB), please check if the
> other 
> sideband works OK, and note if you are using the 2.7 kHz 5-pole filter or
> the 
> 8-pole 2.8 kHz filter.
> 
> Finally, please try the latest beta firmware.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Lyle KK7P/7
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3---Strange-problem-on-10-Meter-SSB-with-power-out-tp668377p674953.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 # 2047 comes alive!

2008-08-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Sante,

Although you may be able to load a small antenna on 80 meters, the 
efficiency will diminish as the antenna gets physically smaller (one 
cannot defeat the laws of physics).
I would suggest that you carry along extensions.that you can clip on to 
extend the physical length of your radiator to something in the vicinity 
of 135 feet total (radiator plus "counterpoise").


Whether the extensions are deployed at height or simply strung out near 
the ground will not make much difference - keep the antenna center high 
because that is where the major portion of the radiation takes place.


Picture a half wave dipole with the center of that half wave at the 
highest point you can manage.  That dipole can be fed at the end, the 
center, or any point in between with the feedpoint impedance varying 
from about 50 to 75 ohms (for center fed) to 4000 ohms (for end fed) - 
you must choose the 'best' arrangement for you depending on what you 
anticipate your portable physical constraints might be (horizontal 
space, vertical space, etc.).  Consider a vertical radiator as half a 
dipole - you need radials to complete the dipole - if the radials are 
physically opposing, the horizontal radiation will cancel and all the 
radiation will be only vertically polarized - a single radial will 
result in both vertical and horizontal radiation - either will work, but 
the distance covered will vary depending on propagation conditions 
existing at the time.


73,
Don W3FPR


Sante - IK0HBN wrote:

Hi everybody,
I just finished to assemble my KX1 with autotuner and 30/80 option and 
I have one question for you:
"As the the manual has been written for 20-30 and 40 meters bands, the 
lenghts for a long wire are given for those bands. How long should it 
be for having a good compromise even on 80 mtrs? I'd like to have just 
one wire for backpacking"


Thanks in advance
Sante, IK0HBN


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
I find for weak CW sigs that most of the settings over 1 are a bit
much...  I find that 1-1 and 3-1 are my two favs.

On Tue, 2008-08-05 at 19:18 -0400, Vic Abell wrote:
> I just completed K3 1162 and am interested in setting
> its NR to an optimal value for combating summer QRN.
> I am currently using "F 1--4" with some success, but
> would like to hear about the settings others prefer.
> 
> Any other advice on other ways to reduce QRN and back
> ground noise with K3 features would be welcome, too.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Vic-W9RGB
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting

2008-08-05 Thread hank k8dd
Pre Firmware 2.20 I uses AGC SLP 4 and AGC THR 8 to 
make the K3 sound like the K2 AGC.  At least on CW.

And used NR F2-4.  That worked great at Field Day.

Since Firmware 2.20 I cannot find a setting that accomplishes
two things 
Sounds like a K2 and the audio level for NR on & off is about
the same
And with NR on (most any setting) now the received CW  sounds
soft, or very slow attack time.  At higher speeds it is possible to 
miss a leading dit in a character.  

But at this point AGC SLP and THR both equal to 2 works fine 
(to my ears) with loud and weak signals, but when I turn on NR

the received signal goes very soft.   If I set NR = F1-1 through
F1-3 it isn't too bad.

73HankK8DD


- Original Message - 
From: "Vic Abell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting



I just completed K3 1162 and am interested in setting
its NR to an optimal value for combating summer QRN.
I am currently using "F 1--4" with some success, but
would like to hear about the settings others prefer.

Any other advice on other ways to reduce QRN and back
ground noise with K3 features would be welcome, too.

73,

Vic-W9RGB

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FREE 3D MARINE AQUARIUM SCREENSAVER - Watch dolphins, sharks & orcas on your 
desktop!
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[Elecraft] K3 firmware issue - VFO tuning

2008-08-05 Thread Bruce Meier
I have noticed something strange happening with both of my K3s that I think
is a firmware issue.  I can reproduce it on both K3s.  Currently I am
running v2.16 in both but I have tried v2.20 and the problem is still
reproducible.   NOTE:  It is reproducible, but not  100% of the time.  

Problem:  In CW mode - push COARSE tuning - find a signal - push COARSE
again to go back to NORMAL tuning.   After doing this the VFO is no longer
linear.  By that I mean the tone jumps a few HZ as if it is jumping in some
predetermined step of HZ.   It doesn't jump off the signal but it does jump.

FIX:   If I then push FINE (don't need to  tune the VFO) and immediately go
back to NORMAL the VFO tunes normally.  Smooth tone changes and the step
freq jumps are gone.

I can create this on both of my K3s.   

K3 # 1062
K3 #1193

Config settings:

VFO CRS: 10
VFO CTS: 100
VFO FST: 50

Has anyone else seen this?   I don't remember it being reported and I would
expect it would have.

73,
Bruce - N1LN
(aka: NC4KW)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting

2008-08-05 Thread Brett Howard
Its kinda tough for me to give a good A/B comparison.  I had the rig for
a while then had to ship it back for a bit of work then when it came
back I upgraded...  I remember the NR working better before I got it
back

On Tue, 2008-08-05 at 21:23 -0400, hank k8dd wrote:
> Pre Firmware 2.20 I uses AGC SLP 4 and AGC THR 8 to 
> make the K3 sound like the K2 AGC.  At least on CW.
> And used NR F2-4.  That worked great at Field Day.
> 
> Since Firmware 2.20 I cannot find a setting that accomplishes
> two things 
> Sounds like a K2 and the audio level for NR on & off is about
> the same
> And with NR on (most any setting) now the received CW  sounds
> soft, or very slow attack time.  At higher speeds it is possible to 
> miss a leading dit in a character.  
> 
> But at this point AGC SLP and THR both equal to 2 works fine 
> (to my ears) with loud and weak signals, but when I turn on NR
> the received signal goes very soft.   If I set NR = F1-1 through
> F1-3 it isn't too bad.
> 
> 73HankK8DD
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Vic Abell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:18 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3: recommendations wanted for NR setting
> 
> 
> >I just completed K3 1162 and am interested in setting
> > its NR to an optimal value for combating summer QRN.
> > I am currently using "F 1--4" with some success, but
> > would like to hear about the settings others prefer.
> > 
> > Any other advice on other ways to reduce QRN and back
> > ground noise with K3 features would be welcome, too.
> > 
> > 73,
> > 
> > Vic-W9RGB
> > 
> > ___
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> >
> 
> 
> FREE 3D MARINE AQUARIUM SCREENSAVER - Watch dolphins, sharks & orcas on your 
> desktop!
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Re: Re[Elecraft] v D1 of the K3 Owner's Manual - Copyright

2008-08-05 Thread Paul





Even though I'm about as old-fashioned as one gets about reading a real
printed book, I find that downloading a copy of an Elecraft manual PDF and
storing it someplace I can click on it works out best.  I can do SEARCHES in
the PDF, which allows me to find all references to a control or whatever. I
only print a few select pages if I need a physical copy.

My original printed copy has been rendered suspect.  Hooray -- keep the
changes coming.


Yes, and please as updated full manuals, as opposed to add on pages.

Paul N4LCD



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[Elecraft] K1 Options

2008-08-05 Thread James Duffey

Dave - You wrote:

	1. I understand the tuning range can be set to either 75kHz or  
150kHz. My inclination is to go with the 75kHz range, 	for the slower  
tuning rate.


I like the slower tuning rate and even that is a bit fast for my taste.
	2. Somewhat related to 1), will I be better off with a range of  
7000-7075kHz or 7025-7100kHz, or possibly some other 	coverage.


Go down to 7000. There is usually lots of good stuff to work below 25  
kHz. Get your extra if you don't have it so you can work the good stuff.


	3. What are your thoughts on the following options? In particular,  
are they effective, and are any of them much easier 	to install during  
initial assembly (as opposed to being retrofit)?

A. KAT1 Antenna Tuner
Definitely worth it if you do portable work. If you already have a  
small autotuner, like an LDG Z-11 or T1, you can omit it.

B. KNB1 Noise Blanker
I don't have one, but if you live in an urban area it is probably  
worth it.

C. KBT1 Battery Holder
This is not worth it. You can only put 9V worth of batteries in it, so  
your power out is limited. That will make a difference. Also, if you  
use rechargeable batteries in it, you need to take the batteries out  
of the K1 to charge, which is a bit of a nuisance. Use an outboard  
battery. - Duffey


--
KK6MC
James Duffey
Cedar Crest NM





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[Elecraft] K3 TCXO software

2008-08-05 Thread Ron Meiring
When is the KTCXO software ready for my TCXO in the K3?

Ron VK4KDD

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[Elecraft] K3: PF1 ends transmit in DATA A mode

2008-08-05 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
I was using PSK31 in DATA A mode and wanted to enable the speakers, 
which I have set to PF1.
I pressed PF1 and it ended the transmission, but my PSK program was of 
course unaware that this happened.

So I had to abort TX from it and start over.

Might it be possible to have the PF keys abort transmission only if 
appropriate?
Pressing the MON/CMP/PWR button to change the modes for the control 
doesn't abort TX, for example.


Leigh/WA5ZNU

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[Elecraft] KRX3

2008-08-05 Thread Tom W8JI
I just finished putting together a K3, I've looked at the 
manuals, and I have a question.


I have identical filters in the main and second receivers. 
Stock filters plus FL2  2.1kHz and FL3  400Hz.


How do I know the roofing filters in the KRX3 are being 
selected? Are they automatically selected when the roofing 
filter in the main receiver is picked?


I couldn't find any menu that lets me program the filters in 
the KRX3, so I assume when the main is on the sub is on?? If 
it is in the manual, where is it??


Is there a way to change the tuning speed of the clarifier 
without affecting the main dial?


I found everything else, but never did find an answer to 
these questions.


Thanks, Tom 


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RE: [Elecraft] KRX3

2008-08-05 Thread Ed Muns
> I just finished putting together a K3, I've looked at the 
> manuals, and I have a question.
> 
> I have identical filters in the main and second receivers. 
> Stock filters plus FL2  2.1kHz and FL3  400Hz.
> 
> How do I know the roofing filters in the KRX3 are being 
> selected? Are they automatically selected when the roofing 
> filter in the main receiver is picked?
> 
> I couldn't find any menu that lets me program the filters in 
> the KRX3, so I assume when the main is on the sub is on?? If 
> it is in the manual, where is it??
> 
> Is there a way to change the tuning speed of the clarifier 
> without affecting the main dial?
> 
> I found everything else, but never did find an answer to 
> these questions.

The KRX3 manual explains how to set parameters on the second receiver,
including filter settings.  The manual is available on the Elecraft web
site.  The quick answer is to use the BSET hold function on the front panel
to configure settings in the second receiver and SUB to enable the
sub-receiver.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3

2008-08-05 Thread Jim Brown
Hi Tom,

I don't have a KRX3 yet (it's backordered), but I've been using a 
K3 for a while. If you've gone into setup for each filter, told 
the software what bandwidth filter is in each filter position, and 
turned each filter on, as you slowly turn bandwidth control you 
should hear an audibly greater change in the character of the band 
noise when the roofer kicks in or out. 

The roofer switches in at whatever frequency you tell the 
software. You can tell it, for example, that the 400 Hz filter is 
a 500 Hz filter, and it will kick in at 500 Hz. 

BTW -- several of us with the capability to measure the filters 
have found that the 8-pole filters DO have enough slop in their 
center frequency that you MAY need to shift their centering at 
bit. My 400 Hz filter is about 45 Hz off, so it was a tossup 
between 40 and 50 Hz. 

73,

Jim K9YC

On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 00:14:24 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:

>How do I know the roofing filters in the KRX3 are being 
>selected? Are they automatically selected when the roofing 
>filter in the main receiver is picked?




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

2008-08-05 Thread Alan Bloom
Yes, I expect a voltage regulator would work better than a resistor to
drop the voltage.  Since the fan motor draws more current at startup
than when it is running, a contant-voltage source should give
more-reliable startup at a lower voltage.

But you probably still want to use a thermostat or some other method to
switch the fan to full voltage if things get too hot.

Al N1AL


On Tue, 2008-08-05 at 05:06, Kenneth A. Christiansen wrote:
> I used a 5 volt regulator on my MFJ 4225 to slow down the fan. This allows
> the fan to start reliably at any voltage. I have run mine and my K2-100 this
> way for at least 5 years with no problem on SSB, CW and DIGITAL.
> 
> 73
> Ken W0CZ
> 
> Bill NZ0T Wrote
> <
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Strange problem on 10 Meter SSB with power

2008-08-05 Thread Toby Deinhardt

Have you tried setting Config: TXG VCE to 3.0dB?


It did not solve the problem. But as I said, at least the recent 
frimware has been much better.


vy 73 de toby
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[Elecraft] KRX3 Arrived.

2008-08-05 Thread Mike

My KRX3 arrived today. (6th Aug NZST).
Ordered with my K3/100 on 4th May 2007.
Thanks Elecraft!
73 de Mike, zl1mh.


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