[Elecraft] FS: XV50 with crystal oven

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Group,
 
My XV50 (with crystal oven) is surplus to my requirement.  It is well built and 
fully functional.  It has been so few uses that is in excellent cosmetic 
condition. Come with all Elecraft documents.
 
Price US$325 inclusive of shipping by airmail.  I accept payment by paypal or 
wire transfer to my US bank account.
 
If interested, please reply off the list.
 
73
 
Johnny Siu VR2XMC


  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略，教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!
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[Elecraft] UK Elecraft net report for Sunday 21st June

[Dave G4AON]

The net ran on 3630 KHz from 0900 to 0930 hours local time (0800
- 0826 UTC). Conditions were quite poor with high local noise
levels.

Subjects discussed included the latest K3 firmware, especially
the ability to lock power levels, etc. for contest use. Ferrite
rod DF antennas for tracing 80m QRM and conditions on 6m and 10m.

Stations were:

PA0TWF, Willy
G0VGS, Ian
M0CHK, Andy
M3EVI, Alan

73 until next week
Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole




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Re: [Elecraft] Coarse tuning

[John Seney]

Hi Wes:

Not the Fine (tap) and hold down Fine button for coarse?

73,

John Seney, WD1V [fn42]
http://www.wd1v.net
603 627-6303













On Jun 18, 2009, at 8:58 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

> I just got my K3 back from Aptos.  In the months that it was gone  
> I've apparently forgotten how to operate it.
>
> I've always used the RIT control for coarse tuning.  I've set the  
> steps in the config menu, but it fails to work.  Both RIT and XIT  
> are off.
>
> I'm off to a club meeting and I expect one of you can have an answer  
> for me by the time I get back :-)
>
> Wes  N7Ws
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Coarse tuning

[Richard Ferch]

CONFIG:VFO OFS - On

73,
Rich VE3KI


On Jun 18, 2009, at 8:58 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

 > I just got my K3 back from Aptos.  In the months that it was gone
 > I've apparently forgotten how to operate it.
 >
 > I've always used the RIT control for coarse tuning.  I've set the
 > steps in the config menu, but it fails to work.  Both RIT and XIT
 > are off.
 >
 > I'm off to a club meeting and I expect one of you can have an answer
 > for me by the time I get back :-)
 >
 > Wes  N7Ws
 >
 >
 >
 >
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P

[Jay Sissom]

Oops, I sent this to Don by himself, but thought I should send it to
the list just in case it helps someone.



Thanks Don, just an update. I re-nulled C55 and it nulled fine.  When
I checked the voltage at U4 pin 1, it was 2.8V which was a little low.
 Then I set R1 & R2.  After doing that, the SWR into a dummy load is
1:9.9.  I'll take the antenna tuner apart and look to see what I can
find.

Thanks & 73
Jay
W9IUF

On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 12:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Jay,
>
> It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the
> KAT2.
> Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again.  If you cannot achieve a
> good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load, check T1 and its
> associated components (T1 for well tinned and soldered leads and C34, R3,
> R4, D1 and D2 for god soldering and proper orientation).
>
> If you cannot achieve a good null when balancing the wattmeter, stop and ask
> for specific help.  The null is a pre-requisite to proper calibration.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jay Sissom wrote:
>>
>> Don (& list),
>>
>> I started doing some testing tonight and have narrowed it down.
>>
>> I took out the antenna tuner and tested each band at the 2W setting,
>> 5W & 10W setting on the power knob.  I have an external watt meter and
>> dummy load attached.  The power didn't match exactly on all the bands
>> but it was fairly close (between 1.9W - 3.5W on 2W setting, 4.9 - 7W
>> on 5W setting and 9W - >10W on the 10W setting).  My Oak Hill WM2
>> meter only goes up to 10W.
>>
>> Then I re-installed the antenna tuner and started the test again.  I
>> connected to Ant 1 and had the ANT setting set to CALS.  On 28060 the
>> 2W setting measured 2W on the meter but gave an SWR of 1.4.  At 5W it
>> was SWR 1.5 and at 10W it was SWR 3.  The other bands were similar.
>> When I got to 21060 at 10W, the display said Hi Cur then showed an SWR
>> of 3.  At 10106 with 10W, it also said Hi Cur then the radio shut down
>> and wouldn't come back on.  I don't smell smoke or anything so I'm
>> assuming the fuse reset and I'll need to wait for it to cool down.
>>
>> So it is definitely a problem with the antenna tuner.  I think this
>> has already identified a problem and I shouldn't keep going with this
>> test.  I'll take the antenna tuner out of the lid and look at it in
>> more detail.  But of course, any other ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks & 73
>> Jay
>> W9IUF
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Jay,
>>>
>>> The real answer is "it all depends".
>>> Since this is a very recent K2 serial number, it may be that this problem
>>> has been present since it was built and was the reason that the original
>>> builder sold it - that is an unfortunate situation, but it must be
>>> considered.
>>>
>>> First, set your CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again.
>>> LoP indicates that the K2 is not developing adequate power to enable
>>> proper
>>> tuning for the KAT2 (it needs 2 watts to tune).
>>>
>>> Then set the K2 ATU menu to CALP and see if it will do a TUNE into a
>>> dummy
>>> load - first try at 5 watts power requested, then 10 watts and finally at
>>> maximum requested power.  Does the HI-CUR message appear at all those
>>> power
>>> levels?  Or only at maximum power?
>>> Next, try each band separately (doing the tests as above).  Does the
>>> HI-CUR
>>> message appear on every band? or only some bands?
>>>
>>> After those tests, set the ATU menu to AUTO and do a "TUNE" into the
>>> dummy
>>> load.  You should hear some relays click and after the tuner has set its
>>> L
>>> and C values to match the 50 ohm load, it should exit from TUNE.
>>>
>>> If all that does not produce satisfactory results, there is something
>>> wrong
>>> with the K2.  To troubleshoot it, the first step is to remove the KAT2
>>> and
>>> operate the base K2 directly into a 50 ohm non-inductive dummy load.  If
>>> it
>>> does not produce good power output without HI Cur messages, then there is
>>> a
>>> problem with the base K2 - likely in the Low Pass Filters or with the T4
>>> output transformer.  We can help further if we have more specific
>>> information - what bands fail? what bands work? How much power is really
>>> produced?
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> Jay Sissom wrote:
>>>

 Hello, I'm helping a friend who purchased a used K2.  The K2 is a
 serial number 6xxx with a KAT2, KSB2 and KBT2.

 When tuning with the antenna tuner into a dummy load, sometimes The
 message "Lo P" appears on the display.  It would also give the "Hi
 Curr" message with the current limit set to 2.5A.  Does it seem right
 that the radio would draw that much current when tuning into a dummy
 load?

 Any info on this would be appreciated.  I'm finishing up the DSP, 160m
 and KNB2 options for the radio but would like to get this fixed before
 making changes.

 Thanks & 73
 Jay
 W9IUF


>>
>> _

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P

[Don Wilhelm]

Jay,

Don't tear into it too quickly.  Make some methodical tests first.

TRUISM:
If you successfully obtained a null while connected to a dummy load, and 
then left that same dummy load connected when you checked the SWR 
reading, the SWR will read 1.0 - if it does not, your null was not correct.
End of truism.

An SWR of 9.9 usually indicates either a short or an open circuit - 9.9 
is the highest SWR that is indicated by the K2.  Be certain the coax 
cable to your dummy load is good as a first step.
You could not have achieved a proper null if you have either an open 
circuit or a short condition, so you will have to do the null again.

Before doing anything else, make a couple of 'sanity' measurements.
Set the ATU menu to CALP and set to ANT1, then power off and remove the 
input coax to the KAT2 from the RF Board.
Measure the resistance from the input coax center conductor to the 
center conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should measure zero ohms.  Also 
measure resistance from the center conductor of the ANT1 jack to the 
shell - that should be very high (even infinite).  If these measurements 
do not check out properly, the path is not intact through the wattmeter 
and relays K17 and K18 and that problem must be found before proceeding.

If the above checks were good, then connect the dummy load to ANT1 and 
measure the resistance from the center conductor to the shield on the 
input coax (with the input coax still unplugged) - it should measure 50 
ohms.  If not, stop and find the problem.

If all is well down to here, then put the KAT2 input coax back in place 
and try the null again.  If it anywhere near normal, the slot on C55 
will be within 30 degrees of parallel with the long side of the KAT2 
board.  If it is perpendicular to the long side of the board, then the 
capacitor is either at its minimum or maximum capacity point and you 
have a problem with T1, R3, R4, C54 or C55.  As usual, T1 is the most 
likely suspect.

73,
Don W3FPR


Jay Sissom wrote:
> Oops, I sent this to Don by himself, but thought I should send it to
> the list just in case it helps someone.
>
>
>
> Thanks Don, just an update. I re-nulled C55 and it nulled fine.  When
> I checked the voltage at U4 pin 1, it was 2.8V which was a little low.
>  Then I set R1 & R2.  After doing that, the SWR into a dummy load is
> 1:9.9.  I'll take the antenna tuner apart and look to see what I can
> find.
>
> Thanks & 73
> Jay
> W9IUF
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Atmospheric Noise

[Edwin Johnson]

Hello Ron,

> - Original Message -
> From: "Ron Edmon"   
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 10:40 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] DSP and IF Filters
>
> I have been going through the manual on the K3 trying different combination
> of DSP and IF as well as NR filters trying to reduce atmospheric noise.  I
> find the noise level to high pitched which fatigues me after an hour or so
> of listening.  I've listened to the "Hear It" external DSP filter employed
~
> Ron, N6SC

Yes, I'm going through the same sort of thing with my K3, which I've only had 
assembled for a week, so inexperience with this rig may be a lot of the 
problem.

If the station is strong, the high pitch is not as noticeable, but if a weak 
station or if you have to narrow the bandwidth, this is really a problem. This 
is primarily noticed at night when I may have an S6 to S9 noise level, which 
consists of what I term as 'atmospheric noise' (a rushing wind sound) and not 
static crashes or weather related sounds.

Obviously, if you have the bandwidth too narrow, you can't shift or you will 
lose the cw signal, unlike ssb usage. I'm going to follow through with a few 
of the settings given in replies to this posting and will share any I have. 
Incidentally, I've also experimented with using F2-1 NR setting (as well as 
others), which helps if the signal isn't too weak and you lose too much audio 
from the NR insertion attenuation.

...Edwin

"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
return."-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson
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[Elecraft] K3 Atmospheric Noise

[Steve Ellington]

Edwin
Try going into the RX EQ and boosting bands 4 and 5 by 6 to 8db. Then retry
your NR. I use a bit lower setting F1-2 or so.
Steve N4LQ 

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[Elecraft] serial interface noise on 160m -- propagates through K3 to coax cables and grounds...

[Mitch Mitchell]

Hello, 

I have been hearing an annoying noise on 160m that has a pulse rate of about 
1/3 of a second.   After observing the behavior when I do certain things with 
my K3 and my computer I found that the source of the pulsing is Ham Radio 
Deluxe polling the K3 for VFO changes -- it polls every 300ms.  However, when 
HRD is shut down (no other serial port activity) the noise is still present as 
a constant tone with no pulsing effect.  My first suspicion is the USB to 
Serial adapters on the computer, but I am also thinking that maybe the noise is 
coming from the USB hubs or their wall warts.  I can hear the noise on the K3, 
my winradio, and my handheld (which is picking up the noise on 80m).  I was 
wondering if anyone has seen something like this and whether this might be 
coming from inside the computer or the USB hubs.  I am going to pull out my 
desk from the wall and start tracking this down to the source but I wanted to 
see if anyone else had experience with this sort of thing and any 
 thoughts or recommendations?

Best Regards,

Mitch Mitchell
AE5HO
mitchmitchell1...@msn.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Atmospheric Noise

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Something else to consider is that the offending noise may not be
atmospherics at all. Newer 'wall wart' power modules used on many
electronics to drop the mains voltage to what the unit needs are often
switching power supplies. I have at least one that generates a broad-band
hash that has no specific frequency but which simply blankets he HF spectrum
from 160 up through at least 20 meters with what sounds exactly like typical
QRN. 

I wouldn't have suspected it wasn't "atmospheric" except that my noise level
is frequently very low on 40 and 80 - often about S2 - and suddenly it
seemed that every evening I listened it was about S7! Finally the light
dawned and I pulled the plug on the new gadget installed clear across the
house and the S-meter fell back to S2. 

As Don noted (and several others including Edwin have confirmed with their
suggestions) the *only* way to reduce the level of broad-band noise is to
reduce the bandwidth. All the suggestions made are various ways to reduce
the ultimate bandwidth heard. 

For me, it's a big tradeoff. I like a wide bandwidth because my brain much
more comfortably recognizes the tone of the signal in wide-band noise than
when the noise is focused on the same frequency as the signal as happens
when the bandwidth is narrow. In every case, there's a bandwidth setting
that provides the optimum between compressing the noise into one frequency
entering my ears and having the bandwidth too wide so that the sheer total
noise power is disturbing. 

But the bottom line is that there's nothing like a "quiet band". Be sure
that "band noise" is really not something you can shut off! 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P

[Jay Sissom]

Too late. :)  I noticed that two of the leads of T1 crossed over each
other under T1 and above the circuit board.  They were tinned all the
way to the toroid so it looked like they might have been shorted.   I
lifted the toroid a bit off the board and checked and got SWR of 1 to
1 on all bands.   The tuner worked for a while when he first got the
radio so this could be the cause of the somewhat intermittent problem.

I attempted to remove T1 to fix the crossed wire.  Unfortunately, the
person who built this folded each lead at a 90 degree angle under the
circuit board which made it extremely difficult to remove it and I had
to destroy T1 to remove it.  I rebuilt it and reinstalled it and now
in CALn, I only get Hi no matter the position of C55.  So I'm taking a
break and will get back at it.

I measured the resistance between the 4 leads out of the many turns
side of T1 and got 0 ohms like I should.  So it seems it is connected
OK. Thanks again for your help.  I'll look into it again later today.

Thanks & 73
Jay
W9IUF


On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Jay,
>
> Don't tear into it too quickly.  Make some methodical tests first.
>
> TRUISM:
> If you successfully obtained a null while connected to a dummy load, and
> then left that same dummy load connected when you checked the SWR reading,
> the SWR will read 1.0 - if it does not, your null was not correct.
> End of truism.
>
> An SWR of 9.9 usually indicates either a short or an open circuit - 9.9 is
> the highest SWR that is indicated by the K2.  Be certain the coax cable to
> your dummy load is good as a first step.
> You could not have achieved a proper null if you have either an open circuit
> or a short condition, so you will have to do the null again.
>
> Before doing anything else, make a couple of 'sanity' measurements.
> Set the ATU menu to CALP and set to ANT1, then power off and remove the
> input coax to the KAT2 from the RF Board.
> Measure the resistance from the input coax center conductor to the center
> conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should measure zero ohms.  Also measure
> resistance from the center conductor of the ANT1 jack to the shell - that
> should be very high (even infinite).  If these measurements do not check out
> properly, the path is not intact through the wattmeter and relays K17 and
> K18 and that problem must be found before proceeding.
>
> If the above checks were good, then connect the dummy load to ANT1 and
> measure the resistance from the center conductor to the shield on the input
> coax (with the input coax still unplugged) - it should measure 50 ohms.  If
> not, stop and find the problem.
>
> If all is well down to here, then put the KAT2 input coax back in place and
> try the null again.  If it anywhere near normal, the slot on C55 will be
> within 30 degrees of parallel with the long side of the KAT2 board.  If it
> is perpendicular to the long side of the board, then the capacitor is either
> at its minimum or maximum capacity point and you have a problem with T1, R3,
> R4, C54 or C55.  As usual, T1 is the most likely suspect.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
>
> Jay Sissom wrote:
>>
>> Oops, I sent this to Don by himself, but thought I should send it to
>> the list just in case it helps someone.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Don, just an update. I re-nulled C55 and it nulled fine.  When
>> I checked the voltage at U4 pin 1, it was 2.8V which was a little low.
>>  Then I set R1 & R2.  After doing that, the SWR into a dummy load is
>> 1:9.9.  I'll take the antenna tuner apart and look to see what I can
>> find.
>>
>> Thanks & 73
>> Jay
>> W9IUF
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 12:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Jay,
>>>
>>> It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the
>>> KAT2.
>>> Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again.  If you cannot achieve
>>> a
>>> good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load, check T1 and its
>>> associated components (T1 for well tinned and soldered leads and C34, R3,
>>> R4, D1 and D2 for god soldering and proper orientation).
>>>
>>> If you cannot achieve a good null when balancing the wattmeter, stop and
>>> ask
>>> for specific help.  The null is a pre-requisite to proper calibration.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>
>
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[Elecraft] NR

[The Smiths]

I have a constant S5 to S7 noise floor here at my QTH.. It's both QRN and QRM.  
This is especially true when the conditions change so that the DX is present. I 
find that when I use NR 3-5 with Med5 I reduce the QRN by at least 2 S units.  
I've never had an NR that actually reduced random band noise, other than 
perhaps electrical impulse generators.  Granted, I've come from the Yaesu world.

 

Michael

N6MQL

 

-

Merv,



Interesting, I have used the shift and on my unit the FC* is at 150. I find
moving it down to 90 helps (toning down the higher pitches noise) as well as
playing with the bandwidth (trial and re-trial). Noise seems to be about S3
in my area with no improvement or reduction in noise using DSP (both IF's)
or using Noise Reduction at any of the settings. NR seems to be pretty
ineffective unless it's just operator error but, I think I have a fair
understanding of going through the settings while listening to the
atmospheric noise..



Thanks for your comments,



Ron N6SC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] serial interface noise on 160m -- propagates through K3 to coax cables and grounds...

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU]

Mitch,
You may be doing this already, but you can make a small loop antenna for 
your HT (TH-F6A?) to DF the noise.
A really simple one is just a short SMA to BNC jumper with a square wire 
loop (alligator test leads?) taped to a piece of cardboard.
When the loop is broadside to the noise, it will be the loudest, and 
when parallel, the null will be sharpest.
This type of antenna is inefficient, and so it work well to DF noise 
sources to a few inches.
So you can tell where noise is being radiated inside your shack.  (It 
might be created in one spot and radiated elsewhere, of course.)

If you need a better DF antenna for RFI, make a better version that is 
shielded, by using a piece of scrap coax:
http://lists.contesting.com/_rfi/2005-01/msg00078.html

Leigh/WA5ZNU
> Hello, 
>
> I have been hearing an annoying noise on 160m that has a pulse rate of about 
> 1/3 of a second.   After observing the behavior when I do certain things with 
> my K3 and my computer I found that the source of the pulsing is Ham Radio 
> Deluxe polling the K3 for VFO changes -- it polls every 300ms.  However, when 
> HRD is shut down (no other serial port activity) the noise is still present 
> as a constant tone with no pulsing effect.  My first suspicion is the USB to 
> Serial adapters on the computer, but I am also thinking that maybe the noise 
> is coming from the USB hubs or their wall warts.  I can hear the noise on the 
> K3, my winradio, and my handheld (which is picking up the noise on 80m).  I 
> was wondering if anyone has seen something like this and whether this might 
> be coming from inside the computer or the USB hubs.  I am going to pull out 
> my desk from the wall and start tracking this down to the source but I wanted 
> to see if anyone else had experience with this sort of thing and an
 y 
>  thoughts or recommendations?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Mitch Mitchell
> AE5HO
> mitchmitchell1...@msn.com
>
>   


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Brett Howard]

I kinda felt that the K3 had a raspy and brash sound until recently when
I installed a filter that Elecraft has been testing.  This filter helped
my K3 sound a lot more like my K1 and for that I'm quite happy.  You
guys will also be happy if Elecraft kicks the board out as it allows you
to melt some solder inside.

~Brett

On Sun, 2009-04-05 at 14:20 +0100, Dave G4AON wrote:
> There's an interesting IC-7600 review on eHam where "RFEXPERT" is
> comparing his new IC-7600 with his K3.
> 
> http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/7775
> 
> 73 Dave, G4AON
> K3/100 #80
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Brett Howard]

What would be slick is to see the I/O board with a PCM2902 on it as
well.  Most operating systems have drivers for this IC and it just shows
up as a sound card.  So if a 2902 and a FTDIChip were plopped down and
tied to a hub you could have the radio when plugged in show up on most
computers (windows, linux and mac at least) as an RS232 port and a sound
card.  Then just point your digital software at the newly installed
sound card and all of the line level audio connections are made for you.

~Brett

On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 11:19 -0700, wayne burdick wrote:
> Dan Copeland wrote:
> 
> > can't understand why the K3 didn't
> > come with a USB port instead of the outdated com port.
> 
> The KIO3's digital I/O module could be replaced with one that has USB 
> rather than RS232 -- or better yet, both. We planned for this.
> 
> The reason we went with RS232 initially is that many hams are still 
> using PCs that have only RS232 ports. Those who prefer to use USB can 
> use an inexpensive USB-to-RS232 adapter. There is no difference in I/O 
> performance between the two methods.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
> 
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[Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[KM4VX]

I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the K-2.
Thanks. KM4VX
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Amplifier-for-K-2-10-tp3129848p3129848.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P

[Don Wilhelm]

Jay,

At least you now know the source of the difficulty.

Did you count the turns correctly?  The first pass of the wire through 
the core is one turn, a full wrap around the core is two turns.

You must get the proper leads into the right holes, and the leads must 
be well stripped.
You did remember the single turn winding through the core when you put 
it back on the board did you not.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jay Sissom wrote:
> Too late. :)  I noticed that two of the leads of T1 crossed over each
> other under T1 and above the circuit board.  They were tinned all the
> way to the toroid so it looked like they might have been shorted.   I
> lifted the toroid a bit off the board and checked and got SWR of 1 to
> 1 on all bands.   The tuner worked for a while when he first got the
> radio so this could be the cause of the somewhat intermittent problem.
>
> I attempted to remove T1 to fix the crossed wire.  Unfortunately, the
> person who built this folded each lead at a 90 degree angle under the
> circuit board which made it extremely difficult to remove it and I had
> to destroy T1 to remove it.  I rebuilt it and reinstalled it and now
> in CALn, I only get Hi no matter the position of C55.  So I'm taking a
> break and will get back at it.
>
> I measured the resistance between the 4 leads out of the many turns
> side of T1 and got 0 ohms like I should.  So it seems it is connected
> OK. Thanks again for your help.  I'll look into it again later today.
>
> Thanks & 73
> Jay
> W9IUF
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>   
>> Jay,
>>
>> Don't tear into it too quickly.  Make some methodical tests first.
>>
>> TRUISM:
>> If you successfully obtained a null while connected to a dummy load, and
>> then left that same dummy load connected when you checked the SWR reading,
>> the SWR will read 1.0 - if it does not, your null was not correct.
>> End of truism.
>>
>> An SWR of 9.9 usually indicates either a short or an open circuit - 9.9 is
>> the highest SWR that is indicated by the K2.  Be certain the coax cable to
>> your dummy load is good as a first step.
>> You could not have achieved a proper null if you have either an open circuit
>> or a short condition, so you will have to do the null again.
>>
>> Before doing anything else, make a couple of 'sanity' measurements.
>> Set the ATU menu to CALP and set to ANT1, then power off and remove the
>> input coax to the KAT2 from the RF Board.
>> Measure the resistance from the input coax center conductor to the center
>> conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should measure zero ohms.  Also measure
>> resistance from the center conductor of the ANT1 jack to the shell - that
>> should be very high (even infinite).  If these measurements do not check out
>> properly, the path is not intact through the wattmeter and relays K17 and
>> K18 and that problem must be found before proceeding.
>>
>> If the above checks were good, then connect the dummy load to ANT1 and
>> measure the resistance from the center conductor to the shield on the input
>> coax (with the input coax still unplugged) - it should measure 50 ohms.  If
>> not, stop and find the problem.
>>
>> If all is well down to here, then put the KAT2 input coax back in place and
>> try the null again.  If it anywhere near normal, the slot on C55 will be
>> within 30 degrees of parallel with the long side of the KAT2 board.  If it
>> is perpendicular to the long side of the board, then the capacitor is either
>> at its minimum or maximum capacity point and you have a problem with T1, R3,
>> R4, C54 or C55.  As usual, T1 is the most likely suspect.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>>
>> Jay Sissom wrote:
>> 
>>> Oops, I sent this to Don by himself, but thought I should send it to
>>> the list just in case it helps someone.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks Don, just an update. I re-nulled C55 and it nulled fine.  When
>>> I checked the voltage at U4 pin 1, it was 2.8V which was a little low.
>>>  Then I set R1 & R2.  After doing that, the SWR into a dummy load is
>>> 1:9.9.  I'll take the antenna tuner apart and look to see what I can
>>> find.
>>>
>>> Thanks & 73
>>> Jay
>>> W9IUF
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 12:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>
>>>   
 Jay,

 It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the
 KAT2.
 Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again.  If you cannot achieve
 a
 good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load, check T1 and its
 associated components (T1 for well tinned and soldered leads and C34, R3,
 R4, D1 and D2 for god soldering and proper orientation).

 If you cannot achieve a good null when balancing the wattmeter, stop and
 ask
 for specific help.  The null is a pre-requisite to proper calibration.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Brett Howard]

You can do a lot more than 38400 over RS232 as well so even if the K3
goes to USB you're probably not going to see more than 38400 being piped
over.  But yes audio could be added via another USB endpoint.

On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 15:31 -0400, Steve Ellington wrote:
> Physical properties aside, USB's advantage is speed. We are running the K3's 
> serial port at 38kb while USB can run 400,000kbJust a tad faster and 
> that allows audio and video transfer. True, USB jacks are flimbsey little 
> things, if it were mounted on an option board like the current RS232 is, it 
> could be replaced without a lot of hassle. Sooner or later, ham rigs will 
> either be the only thing around with RS232 or they will change over to USB 
> like the rest of the world.
> Steve Ellington
> n...@carolina.rr.com
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Paul Christensen" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600
> 
> 
> >>> can't understand why the K3 didn't
> >>> come with a USB port instead of the outdated com port.
> >
> > I can't speak on behalf of Elecraft but for the majority of us, it's a
> > simple matter to convert from serial to USB and more difficult to convert 
> > in
> > the opposite direction.
> >
> > USB ports are not nearly as mechanically secure as the DB-9 connector.  An
> > accidental strike of the USB plug in the lateral direction can easily 
> > cause
> > damage the mating USB socket inside the rig (like a K3 used portable). 
> > I've
> > broken a couple USB ports on my laptop PCs as a result of inadvertent
> > strikes.
> >
> > Myself, I would like to see the beginnings of an optical S/PDIF standard
> > that incorporates audio + data/rig control.
> >
> > Paul, W9AC
> >
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Mike Harris]

Bring it on!

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: "Brett Howard" 
To: "Dave G4AON" 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600


|I kinda felt that the K3 had a raspy and brash sound until recently when
| I installed a filter that Elecraft has been testing.  This filter helped
| my K3 sound a lot more like my K1 and for that I'm quite happy.  You
| guys will also be happy if Elecraft kicks the board out as it allows you
| to melt some solder inside.
|
| ~Brett

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[Don Wilhelm]

Ron,

Your best bet is a KPA100 - it couples with the K2 and everything is 
automatic in operation.  I recall that the FCC requires amplifiers which 
operate with  less than 50 watts input to be sold legally in the US, so 
you do not see many amplifiers with 100 watts out and 5 or 10 watts in 
that can operate in the 25 MHz region - remember the CB amplifer problems.

However, if a linear amplifier is capable of 500 or 600 watts output 
with 50 or 60 watts input, then it should produce about 100 watts out 
with 10 watts in.  So if you have such a linear amp already, hook it 
up.  You can use the N0SS amp keying kit or the WA6HHQ amp keying 
circuit shown on the Elecraft website - Builders Resource page -> 
Application Notes.

Your other possibility is to homebrew an amplifier.  If you have tubes, 
a pair of 6146s or 807s or 1625s would do the job and require a lot less 
than 10 watts drive (assuming grid driven).  There are several amplifier 
kits available, but many are the amp only and do not include low pass 
filters nor T/R switching.

If you have the K60XV option in your K2 (Sorry, but I can't remember), 
there is an amp keying circuit on that board already, all you would need 
is a jack to bring it out.

73,
Don W3FPR  

KM4VX wrote:
> I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
> alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
> looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
> input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
> would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
> separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the K-2.
> Thanks. KM4VX
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.83/2191 - Release Date: 06/21/09 
> 05:53:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[Frank Ross W4NHJ]

Try http://www.communication-concepts.com/

I built one of their 140 watt amps for a 20 meter HB SSB rig.  I only have 
it configured for one band, 20 meters, but left room to add filters for all 
HF bands.  It works great.

Frank - W4NHJ

- Original Message - 
From: "KM4VX" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 4:32 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10


>
> I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
> alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
> looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
> input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
> would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
> separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the 
> K-2.
> Thanks. KM4VX
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/Amplifier-for-K-2-10-tp3129848p3129848.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Bob Cunnings]

Tell us more about this filter!

Bob NW8L

On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 2:24 PM, Brett Howard wrote:
> I kinda felt that the K3 had a raspy and brash sound until recently when
> I installed a filter that Elecraft has been testing.  This filter helped
> my K3 sound a lot more like my K1 and for that I'm quite happy.  You
> guys will also be happy if Elecraft kicks the board out as it allows you
> to melt some solder inside.
>
> ~Brett
>
> On Sun, 2009-04-05 at 14:20 +0100, Dave G4AON wrote:
>> There's an interesting IC-7600 review on eHam where "RFEXPERT" is
>> comparing his new IC-7600 with his K3.
>>
>> http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/7775
>>
>> 73 Dave, G4AON
>> K3/100 #80
>>
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[Elecraft] K3 Speaker

[rfenabled]

Hi,

I remember reading somewhere about audio distortion from the K3 on receive.

I have noticed recently that the internal speaker has a "vibration" sound to it 
at all volume levels except very low setting where I can't hear it but it is 
too low a volume to operate comfortably.

Serial 679 factory built

Any suggestions please?

Gary
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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[Elecraft] 3.19 lost 10 watts

[Karl MARDERIAN]

After loading 3.19 frimware into my K3, I no longer get 120 watts when  
denting power at maxium. I do get 12 watts on the low scale. I did  
recalibrate my Tx, 1 mw, 5 w and 50 w with dummy load.
  Anyone with the same? Amy insite?
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] 3.19 lost 10 watts

[Iain MacDonnell - N6ML]

Karl MARDERIAN wrote:
> After loading 3.19 frimware into my K3, I no longer get 120 watts when  
> denting power at maxium. I do get 12 watts on the low scale. I did  
> recalibrate my Tx, 1 mw, 5 w and 50 w with dummy load.
>   Anyone with the same? Amy insite?

Yes, that was an intentional change in the latest firmware. Please read
the release notes when (or before) you upgrade!

* MAX POWER LEVEL NOW 110 W (was 120 W): This is intended
to reduce the possibility of excess KPA3 operating current on some
bands. This might have occurred when using a high power setting
along with low power supply voltage and/or a high load SWR.
(Note: The recommended maximum power setting is still 100 W.)

 ~Iain / N6ML

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Speaker

[Brett Howard]

Its probably because something has worked slightly loose.  Try rummaging
around with a finger for a bit and see if you can curb the vibration
then go after it with speaker cloth or some other form of rubber
gasketing material.  

~Brett

On Sun, 2009-06-21 at 21:36 +, rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> I remember reading somewhere about audio distortion from the K3 on receive.
> 
> I have noticed recently that the internal speaker has a "vibration" sound to 
> it at all volume levels except very low setting where I can't hear it but it 
> is too low a volume to operate comfortably.
> 
> Serial 679 factory built
> 
> Any suggestions please?
> 
> Gary
> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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[Elecraft] K3 IF Filters

[Gary, VE1RGB]

Anyone out there want to trade  a set of KFL3A-500 and KFL3A 200 Hz filters
for a set for a set of KFL3A-400 and KFL3A-250  -- or any combination
thereof that leaves me with a matched set for diversity receive purposes?

Contact off-line ve1...@rac.ca plse.

Gary, VE1RGB



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> What would be slick is to see the I/O board with a PCM2902 on 
> it as well.  Most operating systems have drivers for this IC 
> and it just shows up as a sound card. 

PCM2902 is not exactly the best chip for this application.  W7AY 
has documented some issues in some operating systems and certain 
sample rates.  I'd be looking at some of the other USB Audio class 
devices.

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 4:28 PM
> To: wayne burdick
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600
> 
> 
> What would be slick is to see the I/O board with a PCM2902 on 
> it as well.  Most operating systems have drivers for this IC 
> and it just shows up as a sound card.  So if a 2902 and a 
> FTDIChip were plopped down and tied to a hub you could have 
> the radio when plugged in show up on most computers (windows, 
> linux and mac at least) as an RS232 port and a sound card.  
> Then just point your digital software at the newly installed 
> sound card and all of the line level audio connections are 
> made for you.
> 
> ~Brett
> 
> On Tue, 2009-06-16 at 11:19 -0700, wayne burdick wrote:
> > Dan Copeland wrote:
> > 
> > > can't understand why the K3 didn't
> > > come with a USB port instead of the outdated com port.
> > 
> > The KIO3's digital I/O module could be replaced with one 
> that has USB
> > rather than RS232 -- or better yet, both. We planned for this.
> > 
> > The reason we went with RS232 initially is that many hams are still
> > using PCs that have only RS232 ports. Those who prefer to 
> use USB can 
> > use an inexpensive USB-to-RS232 adapter. There is no 
> difference in I/O 
> > performance between the two methods.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> > 
> > 
> > ---
> > 
> > http://www.elecraft.com
> > 
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU]

See http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/
Leigh/WA5ZNU
> I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
> alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
> looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
> input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
> would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
> separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the K-2.
> Thanks. KM4VX
>   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P

[Jay Sissom]

Thank you again for your help.  I must have messed up the re-install
of T1.  I removed it, then put it back and now everything works as it
should.

So blame this problem on T1 also - twice.  Once the way we got the
radio and once that was my fault.

Now on to the KNB2, K160RX and KDSP2...

73
Thanks
Jay
W9IUF


On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 4:40 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Jay,
>
> At least you now know the source of the difficulty.
>
> Did you count the turns correctly?  The first pass of the wire through the
> core is one turn, a full wrap around the core is two turns.
>
> You must get the proper leads into the right holes, and the leads must be
> well stripped.
> You did remember the single turn winding through the core when you put it
> back on the board did you not.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jay Sissom wrote:
>>
>> Too late. :)  I noticed that two of the leads of T1 crossed over each
>> other under T1 and above the circuit board.  They were tinned all the
>> way to the toroid so it looked like they might have been shorted.   I
>> lifted the toroid a bit off the board and checked and got SWR of 1 to
>> 1 on all bands.   The tuner worked for a while when he first got the
>> radio so this could be the cause of the somewhat intermittent problem.
>>
>> I attempted to remove T1 to fix the crossed wire.  Unfortunately, the
>> person who built this folded each lead at a 90 degree angle under the
>> circuit board which made it extremely difficult to remove it and I had
>> to destroy T1 to remove it.  I rebuilt it and reinstalled it and now
>> in CALn, I only get Hi no matter the position of C55.  So I'm taking a
>> break and will get back at it.
>>
>> I measured the resistance between the 4 leads out of the many turns
>> side of T1 and got 0 ohms like I should.  So it seems it is connected
>> OK. Thanks again for your help.  I'll look into it again later today.
>>
>> Thanks & 73
>> Jay
>> W9IUF
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Jay,
>>>
>>> Don't tear into it too quickly.  Make some methodical tests first.
>>>
>>> TRUISM:
>>> If you successfully obtained a null while connected to a dummy load, and
>>> then left that same dummy load connected when you checked the SWR
>>> reading,
>>> the SWR will read 1.0 - if it does not, your null was not correct.
>>> End of truism.
>>>
>>> An SWR of 9.9 usually indicates either a short or an open circuit - 9.9
>>> is
>>> the highest SWR that is indicated by the K2.  Be certain the coax cable
>>> to
>>> your dummy load is good as a first step.
>>> You could not have achieved a proper null if you have either an open
>>> circuit
>>> or a short condition, so you will have to do the null again.
>>>
>>> Before doing anything else, make a couple of 'sanity' measurements.
>>> Set the ATU menu to CALP and set to ANT1, then power off and remove the
>>> input coax to the KAT2 from the RF Board.
>>> Measure the resistance from the input coax center conductor to the center
>>> conductor of the ANT1 jack - it should measure zero ohms.  Also measure
>>> resistance from the center conductor of the ANT1 jack to the shell - that
>>> should be very high (even infinite).  If these measurements do not check
>>> out
>>> properly, the path is not intact through the wattmeter and relays K17 and
>>> K18 and that problem must be found before proceeding.
>>>
>>> If the above checks were good, then connect the dummy load to ANT1 and
>>> measure the resistance from the center conductor to the shield on the
>>> input
>>> coax (with the input coax still unplugged) - it should measure 50 ohms.
>>>  If
>>> not, stop and find the problem.
>>>
>>> If all is well down to here, then put the KAT2 input coax back in place
>>> and
>>> try the null again.  If it anywhere near normal, the slot on C55 will be
>>> within 30 degrees of parallel with the long side of the KAT2 board.  If
>>> it
>>> is perpendicular to the long side of the board, then the capacitor is
>>> either
>>> at its minimum or maximum capacity point and you have a problem with T1,
>>> R3,
>>> R4, C54 or C55.  As usual, T1 is the most likely suspect.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jay Sissom wrote:
>>>

 Oops, I sent this to Don by himself, but thought I should send it to
 the list just in case it helps someone.



 Thanks Don, just an update. I re-nulled C55 and it nulled fine.  When
 I checked the voltage at U4 pin 1, it was 2.8V which was a little low.
  Then I set R1 & R2.  After doing that, the SWR into a dummy load is
 1:9.9.  I'll take the antenna tuner apart and look to see what I can
 find.

 Thanks & 73
 Jay
 W9IUF

 On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 12:46 AM, Don Wilhelm
 wrote:


>
> Jay,
>
> It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the
> KAT2.
> Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again.  If you cannot
> achieve
> a
> good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive 

Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[K2ZR]

Leigh,
I've asked this question recently but have not received and responses. 
Perhaps there are a couple of folks out there that have found a 
compatible amp that can provide 100W or a bit more. QSK would be a FB 
added attraction.
Dick, K2ZR

Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU wrote:

>See http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/
>Leigh/WA5ZNU
>  
>
>>I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
>>alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
>>looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
>>input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
>>would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
>>separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the K-2.
>>Thanks. KM4VX
>>  
>>
>>
>
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>
>  
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[Paul Meier]

I have an amp that low in puts out 140 w, a pair of NTE 335's.  I don't
remember who made it, something like CCS I can't remember the add.  Probably
not much help but let's you know there is hope!  I'll dig around I have some
notes somewhere.

Paul K7PM

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[Elecraft] Sunday 6-21-2009 Elecraft SSB net report

[Mark C. Killmon]

Elecrafters,

 

Thanks to all who for their patience and assistance as we struggled through
poor conditions and an NCS on the opposite coast from typical. I commenced
on 14.319.6, due to QRM. Thanks to all for tuning to find today's frequency.
Also, thanks to stations who made calls for check-ins back east, with little
advance warning.

 

The following stations checked in:

 

K6UO   K3 #755 CA Norm

WZ0O  K3 #185 FL Brad

W8OV K3#3139 (just completed, congrats!) TX Dave

AD5SX  TT Jupiter NM Paul

KD7IEY AZ Jim

WA8ZBT K3 #979 TX Dennis

K0ARO K3 #151 IA Kurt

AD4C K3 #2192 FL Hector

N1RFB K3 #427 MA Mark

AB2TC K3 #82 NY Ken (today's low SN)

N4KNO (today's Hallicrafters check-in. Expecting an SX-111A and HT-37 in
July) FL Ed

N6JW K3 #936 CA John

 

NCS K4SO K3 #2861 Mark

 

No questions or comments from the group. I mentioned that I had made several
contacts on 6M during the June VHF contest and found the K3 and esp. the
KPR-6 very effective. Also, I used the PF1 and PF2 to turn the speaker on
and off. Very handy! The net was adjourned at 18:33Z.

 

73, Mark

www.k4so.com

www.picasaweb.com/kfourso

kfourso.googlepages.com

 

 

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[Elecraft] FW: Amplifier for K-2/10

[Carl Smithson]

-Original Message-
From: Carl Smithson [mailto:carlsmith...@dishmail.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 5:46 PM
To: 'KM4VX'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

The Yaesu Ft-301 came in two versions, the 10 watt and the 100 watt. I have
used the detachable amp from the 100 watt radio on the K1 to get nearly 100
watts out. I paid about $200 for the radio and power supply.

73 de Sonny...NN8K





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KM4VX
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 4:32 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10


I know about the KPA/100 option for the K-2, but wonder if there are any
alternatives for obtaining 100 watts output or better from the K-2. I am
looking for an amplifier that might produce 100 watts or better with an
input of only 10 watts from the K-2. If anyone knows of one out there it
would be interesting to have that information posted here. I would find a
separate amplifier unit more convenient than an internal upgrade to the K-2.
Thanks. KM4VX
-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/Amplifier-for-K-2-10-tp3129848p3129848.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier for K-2/10

[Dale Putnam]

I've been contemplating putting the KPA/100 in a seperate enclosure.. and 
running with the K2, optionally to feed the KPA or not... but keeping it 
seperate from the K2. 

Are there any particular problems with that process? And I am with Dick.. QSK 
is paramount, with or without the amp. 

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 

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[Elecraft] k2/100

[Gary Lee]

To the person wanting an external unit for the k2, it can be built into  a 
separat box and connected externally.  Best of both worlds.  disconnect two 
cables, and away you go with a portable 15 watt k2.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for June 21st & 22nd, 2009

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   The bands were a little strange this evening.  Twenty meters was much noiser 
than forty meters.  Since I do not have much time between nets to prepare and 
eat dinner I could not go outside for a quiet break.  Luckily when I got on 
forty meters the band was simply weak and not loud.  By the way, happy 
beginning of summer.  A few of you mentioned temperatures which reflect this 
fact but not here.  Today it was in the low fifties with rain.  Inside the 
house it is almost 60 degrees.  I am not going to spend much time out here in 
the main living area but rather go back into the computer room and enjoy a 
warmer climate!  I am designing a printed circuit board and let the computer 
stay on while I worked both nets, made and ate dinner, and now writing the 
report.  Once this is done I am going back to Eagle and keep banging away.  I 
downloaded the evaluation version and am very impressed with its capabilities.  
Very easy to learn and very comprehensive.  Much simpler and thorough 
 than the DipTrace application I purchased.  Eagle is very intuitive and allows 
one to recover simply from any mistakes made while learning.  Creating new 
packages was simple.
   On to the lists =>

  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
W6ZH - Pete - CA - KX1 - 384
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686   QNI #85!!!
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
AD6GI - Charles - CA - K3 - 355
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628

  On 7045.5 kHz at 0100z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - Wilderness Sierra
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457  ** QNI #280 **
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820

   Since twenty was loud and forty was weak I know there are folks I missed.  I 
am sorry.  Next week there will be no nets because of Field Day.  Enjoy 
yourself in which ever venue you may find yourself.  I hope the weather is 
considerate to us all.  I know the bands will be better simply from all the 
folks sending radiowaves out and bouncing off the ionosphere.  Seems to charge 
it up almost as well as the sun does from the outside ;)  Plus we know the 
bands are not 'dead' because we hear so many folks on them.  I hope to hear you 
next week.  I may not be using my callsign but I will acknowledge all of you I 
meet none the less.  
   Until two weeks from now stay well,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

- 




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[Elecraft] FD with K3's

[W5CEM]

Early post, but I leave tomorrow for our FD site, and www access is limited. 
If you work K5M/3A-WTX you will be working an all K3 FD effort.  One on SSB,
one on CW, and one on the digi modes.  We bought the K3 just for this and
from all reports and tests, will no longer have inter-station QRM!!!

Hope to work ya

cleve/W5CEM
jay/N5SHC
doug/W5ION

aka K5M
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[Elecraft] NG0R - K2 KAT2 LO P issue

[John Hoaglun]

I need some help troubleshooting a KAT issue.
 
I have a K2 (+KAT + Serial + 160m + 60m/transverter interface) that I have
used quite a bit without any issues.
 
This weekend I decided to take my K2 out of town for the weekend on a family
trip. I figured that I could measure & cut the wire dipoles, and test out
the K2 with the new EEE laptop etc and in general just test & prep for the
upcoming Field Day outing next weekend.
 
With the tuner set to Auto my K2 will not tune up properly. When I hit the
Tune button I get a "1.0:1"  then "LO P" message.  (It does not matter what
the P out is set to and the current draw is pretty low.)
 
When I got home tonight I plugged the k2 into the shack to test it again and
I get the same results into my antennas and a known good dummy load. The
radio is set to current limiting of 3.5 so that should not be issue. When I
flip to the ATU menu to the setup and listen to the relays for the
inductors, capacitors, and antenna jacks I hear all of the clicks where I
expect them.
 
I am a bit panicked now as I thought that I was largely prepped for Field
Day and my rig is having problems. (One of the many reasons that I built the
K2 was for a Field Day rig and camping.)
 
I am looking for some troubleshooting directions as my window for this
repair is pretty short.
 
Please respond to the list and direct (I get the digest version so CC direct
and I will see the messages much sooner.)

Thanks, JH
 
-
John Hoaglun
NG0R - EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] FD with K3's

[Rick Commo]

Please give us a post-FD reply to this posting.

-rick, K7LOG


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W5CEM
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 8:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FD with K3's


Early post, but I leave tomorrow for our FD site, and www access is limited. 
If you work K5M/3A-WTX you will be working an all K3 FD effort.  One on SSB,
one on CW, and one on the digi modes.  We bought the K3 just for this and
from all reports and tests, will no longer have inter-station QRM!!!

Hope to work ya

cleve/W5CEM
jay/N5SHC
doug/W5ION

aka K5M
-- 
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http://n2.nabble.com/FD-with-K3%27s-tp3130854p3130854.html
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Re: [Elecraft] serial interface noise on 160m -- propagates through K3 to coax cables and grounds...

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU]

Ken K0PP has pointed out I said it all wrong.  With my poor choice of 
the terms I have confused even myself, and produced gibberish.
I'll quote Ken because he said it clearly:

  Loops, if built correctly, have a NULL in both broadside directions 
... through the hole in the loop, so-to-speak.
 
  The nulls are -very- narrow, but deep and are essentially the only 
directivity exhibited by a loop.

I've successfully used the cardboard/test-lead loop antenna and TH-F6A 
HT I described to locate noise coming from a switching power supply for 
a lamp in a neighbors house, the charger on my robot vacuum cleaner (a 
menace surely no 1950's ham ever faced), a laptop power supply, and a 
home music player power supply.  Turning off the house breakers is a 
great first step to tell you what room it's in, but if you already know 
it's coming from the shack, the small loop helps a lot.

Leigh/WA5ZNU

> Mitch,
> You may be doing this already, but you can make a small loop antenna 
> for your HT (TH-F6A?) to DF the noise.
> A really simple one is just a short SMA to BNC jumper with a square 
> wire loop (alligator test leads?) taped to a piece of cardboard.
> When the loop is broadside to the noise, it will be the loudest, and 
> when parallel, the null will be sharpest.
> This type of antenna is inefficient, and so it work well to DF noise 
> sources to a few inches.
> So you can tell where noise is being radiated inside your shack.  (It 
> might be created in one spot and radiated elsewhere, of course.)
>
> If you need a better DF antenna for RFI, make a better version that is 
> shielded, by using a piece of scrap coax:
> http://lists.contesting.com/_rfi/2005-01/msg00078.html
>
> Leigh/WA5ZNU
>> Hello,
>> I have been hearing an annoying noise on 160m that has a pulse rate 
>> of about 1/3 of a second.   After observing the behavior when I do 
>> certain things with my K3 and my computer I found that the source of 
>> the pulsing is Ham Radio Deluxe polling the K3 for VFO changes -- it 
>> polls every 300ms.  However, when HRD is shut down (no other serial 
>> port activity) the noise is still present as a constant tone with no 
>> pulsing effect.  My first suspicion is the USB to Serial adapters on 
>> the computer, but I am also thinking that maybe the noise is coming 
>> from the USB hubs or their wall warts.  I can hear the noise on the 
>> K3, my winradio, and my handheld (which is picking up the noise on 
>> 80m).  I was wondering if anyone has seen something like this and 
>> whether this might be coming from inside the computer or the USB 
>> hubs.  I am going to pull out my desk from the wall and start 
>> tracking this down to the source but I wanted to see if anyone else 
>> had experience with this sort of thing and any  thoughts or 
>> recommendations?
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Mitch Mitchell
>> AE5HO
>> mitchmitchell1...@msn.com
>>
>>   
>
>
>


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