Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Minor question

[Carl Clawson]

Fred, did you happen to tune across a frequency where you had earlier
removed a birdie with SIG RMV? That causes the passband to jog a bit and you
can hear it in the sound of the noise, especially at narrow bandwidths. Tune
across it again slowly and watch the P3 carefully. Sometimes you can see the
birdie come flying across the P3 at you and "tunnel" through your passband.
It's pretty cool when you see it.

73, Carl WS7L

> -Original Message-
> The No Cal NTS net is on 3533.000  As I tuned the rx up, at 
> that exact 
> frequency, the background noise changed ... I sounded like 
> some of the 
> highs went away.  Continuing up in freq, at 3533.100, it reverted to 
> what it sounds like below 3533.000  There is nothing on the P3 that 
> looks different.  P3 is in fixed tune mode.  FW version is 4.39.
> 
> Just curious, it's not a problem.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Minor question

[Vic K2VCO]

Have you used the birdie removal feature? It has that effect.

On 4/4/2012 8:19 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> Just noticed this tonight.
>
> The No Cal NTS net is on 3533.000  As I tuned the rx up, at that exact
> frequency, the background noise changed ... I sounded like some of the
> highs went away.  Continuing up in freq, at 3533.100, it reverted to
> what it sounds like below 3533.000  There is nothing on the P3 that
> looks different.  P3 is in fixed tune mode.  FW version is 4.39.
>
> Just curious, it's not a problem.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
> - www.cqp.org


-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

[Jim Brown]

> If I have to use your antenna, then my move would be to replace the 250'
> of75 ohm coax with 250' of 450 ohm ladder line, check the fan dipole legs
> are  exactly the same to provide a balanced load.

You're on target about loss in the feedline, but ladder line is not a 
good move here.David has resonant dipoles, so they are a pretty good 
match to 50 or 75 ohm cable. Folks think QRP, so they think small coax,  
But when the line is as long as these are, the loss certainly gets out 
of hand unless it's  bigger coax. If I were to make ANY change in the 
feedline, it would be to a decent RG8 or RG11.  I would also look at 
ways to reduce the length of the line by finding a shorter route to the 
shack.  You don't need expensive coax -- Davis 213 is about as good as 
it gets for the HF bands, and it's fairly inexpensive.

Window line is NOT the cure for all ills  -- it is as lossy as small 
coax when it gets wet, and there's some loss (and cost) in any impedance 
transforming balun. Further, most real antennas are unbalanced by their 
surroundings, so they need a good ferrite common mode choke at the 
feedpoint whether they're fed by coax or parallel wire line.

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Poised to place my order

[Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft]

You can also add items to your KX3 order prior to when it ships. They will ship 
with the  KX3.

Just reference your original order with your option add-on order.

73,
Eric

www.elecraft.com
_..._



On Apr 4, 2012, at 6:37 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:

> Agreed, David.
> 
> I'm one of the many who are anxiously awaiting the KX3 that I ordered a 
> few days after orders were being accepted.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I didn't put the paddle and mic on the initial order for the KX3, 
> I was curious
> if I could order them now, along with the K3.  Lisa provided the answer 
> almost
> immediately:  yes on the mic and no on the paddle.
> 
> 73 de Jim - AD6CW
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic

[Tony Estep]

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 10:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> If you are able to achieve a linear 1 dial division equals 1 kHz
>  calibration for that dial, please let me know what capacitor you used...

===
Naw, that's not what I meant. I just loved the cool way the dial itself
worked and looked. I'm not thinking of anything that has capacitors or a
VFO, or in fact generates any RF at all. I'm just thinking about that
display. What I'm imagining is that some demented genius could take a
modern receiver with a rotary encoder, and program a control program with a
visual dial display that gave the digitally computed readout but showed it
on a virtual version of the old HRO dial with the numbers peeping through
the rectangles. Actually not that hard to do with one of the control
programs like HRD, but it would take a certain obsessive sort of hacker
(not me) to want to undertake it.

Tony KT0NY



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

[KU7Y]

It all depends on just what he means by 72 ohm cable TV coax.

If it's the low quality coax used around your TV's, you might be right.

But if it's the 1/2" CATV hardline or the smaller "drop" cable, the loss 
will be much less.

These last two are quite good and have very low loss.  I have used just 
under 300' and did quite well with both QRP and QRPp.

It used to be that you could go to your local cable TV company and get lots 
of left over pieces of that good coax.  No idea how that works now but sure 
worth a try.

So Dave, I'd say to use whatever you have and get on the air.  Then spend 
the rest of your life making your antennas bigger, higher and better!

OK, back in my hole,

Ron, KU7Y
SOWP 5545M
Arizona Outlaws Contest Club
Brenda, AZ (Winter)
Caldwell, ID (Summer)
k...@qsl.net
http://www.hatpinsandmore.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Adrian" 
To: 
Sent: 04 April, 2012 8:00 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR


> You have some serious performance limitations with this setup.
> If I have to use your antenna, then my move would be to replace the 250' 
> of
> 75 ohm coax with 250' of 450 ohm ladder line, check the fan dipole legs 
> are
> exactly the same to provide a balanced load.
>
> Get a balun  and short 50 ohm coax section to get from the ladder line 
> back
> into the shack, if you can't get the balanced line in to a balanced line
> tuner etc.
>
> As it is you are losing 57% @ 20m of your power in that feedline.
>
> A mfj-986 or similar with balanced line is probably the go on a limited
> budget.
>
> You will reduce loss from 57% to 9%.
>
> Adrian ... vk4tux
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Stratton
> Sent: Thursday, 5 April 2012 10:34 AM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR
>
> At what point does the SWR have to rise up to before
>
> the K3/10 output power begins to decrease?
>
> I have been using a TS-830 which is not bothered by
>
> SWR up to at least 3:1. I cannot get the tuner now so
>
> will I be forced to run very low power if my SWR is 2
>
> or 3 to 1? What about the K3/100?
>
>
>
> My antennas are resonant fan dipoles (80, 40, 20, 17)
>
> fed with 250 feet of 72 ohm cable TV coax.
>
>
>
> Dave - KO4KL
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic

[Don Wilhelm]

Tony,

If you are able to achieve a linear 1 dial division equals 1 kHz  
calibration for that dial, please let me know what capacitor you used 
and other parameters involved - I have two of those National Dials in 
the jumkbox/

It is typical that dial could be read in 1 kHz increments given that the 
average band coverage was 500 kHz.  That is 1 kHz per division.  
Contrast that with the digital frequency readouts of today that give you 
resolution down to the nearest Hz if you select the fine tuning rate.

Those old days had their benefits (1 kHz tuning accuracy was considered 
exceptional).  Do we want to go back to those days?  I think not.

73,
Don W3FPR

  On 4/4/2012 11:25 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 9:49 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
>
>> My first "world class" receiver was a National HRO5TA1 from the early
>> 1940's.
> ===
> The HRO receivers had that fantastic dial with the planetary vernier gizmo
> inside and the numbers peeking through the holes -- to me, that was the
> most romantic piece of gadgetry in the history of ham radio. A modern
> version with a virtual picture of that dial on a screen would be a major
> marketing coup.
>
> Tony KTØNY
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[Elecraft] K3 Remote Tuning Knob

[Bill]

Those that were wishing for a K3 remote tuning knob here is one possible 
(expensive) solution!
 
KX3 Firmware Upgreade:
* ADDED FAST REMOTE-CONTROL MODE (AI4), PHASE 1: This is for use in controlling 
other radios (K2, K3, KX3). Puts the local
KX3 into a benign (no-transmit, no-RX-audio) state. Turns sub RX off on target
radio if it’s a K3.  Misc. improvements
needed.
 
73
Bill - K6WLM
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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic

[Tony Estep]

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 9:49 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

> My first "world class" receiver was a National HRO5TA1 from the early
> 1940's.

===
The HRO receivers had that fantastic dial with the planetary vernier gizmo
inside and the numbers peeking through the holes -- to me, that was the
most romantic piece of gadgetry in the history of ham radio. A modern
version with a virtual picture of that dial on a screen would be a major
marketing coup.

Tony KTØNY
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[Elecraft] K3 - Minor question

[Fred Jensen]

Just noticed this tonight.

The No Cal NTS net is on 3533.000  As I tuned the rx up, at that exact 
frequency, the background noise changed ... I sounded like some of the 
highs went away.  Continuing up in freq, at 3533.100, it reverted to 
what it sounds like below 3533.000  There is nothing on the P3 that 
looks different.  P3 is in fixed tune mode.  FW version is 4.39.

Just curious, it's not a problem.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

[Adrian]

You have some serious performance limitations with this setup.
If I have to use your antenna, then my move would be to replace the 250' of
75 ohm coax with 250' of 450 ohm ladder line, check the fan dipole legs are
exactly the same to provide a balanced load.

Get a balun  and short 50 ohm coax section to get from the ladder line back
into the shack, if you can't get the balanced line in to a balanced line
tuner etc.

As it is you are losing 57% @ 20m of your power in that feedline.

A mfj-986 or similar with balanced line is probably the go on a limited
budget.

You will reduce loss from 57% to 9%.

Adrian ... vk4tux

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Stratton
Sent: Thursday, 5 April 2012 10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

At what point does the SWR have to rise up to before

the K3/10 output power begins to decrease? 

I have been using a TS-830 which is not bothered by 

SWR up to at least 3:1. I cannot get the tuner now so

will I be forced to run very low power if my SWR is 2

or 3 to 1? What about the K3/100? 

 

My antennas are resonant fan dipoles (80, 40, 20, 17)

fed with 250 feet of 72 ohm cable TV coax. 

 

Dave - KO4KL

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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

My first "world class" receiver was a National HRO5TA1 from the early
1940's. It came to me via another Ham in the mid 50's. By the mid 1960's the
HRO was in need of some work. In those days resistors drifted, capacitors
leaked and tubes grew weak and gassy. But I had no manual. So I wrote the
National company, asking if they might have one and what it might cost. 

A few weeks passed and a large envelope arrived in my mail. Inside was an
HRO5 manual and a note from a "secretary" at National. She said that she had
spent several lunch hours digging through old file cabinets (remember this
was before personal computers - even before Xeroxing!) and found a copy.
With the complements of National Radio. No charge. 

That's when I learned that a company serious about supporting a market, like
National was about Ham radio in those days, was serious about world-class
customer support. 

And that's how you can tell the Elecraft is also very serious about
supporting the Ham market today.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


Don:
Looking out my window, I can just see the old plant where National Radio
used to be housed, about a mile and a half away.  It's on the Malden -
Melrose line, beside the railroad tracks.  As a teenager, I dreamed of one
day owing one of those new HRO-500s.  Never did get one.
Brian KB1VBF
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Poised to place my order

[Jim Lowman]

Agreed, David.

I'm one of the many who are anxiously awaiting the KX3 that I ordered a 
few days
after orders were being accepted.

In the meantime, I decided to order a K3 as well.  Per the Elecraft 
order status page,
K3 kits ship 1-3 business days after the order is received.  This will 
give me something
to play with in the meantime.

I'm also interested in the advantages of the 2.8 filter over the 2.7, 
other than the
former is a 5-pole filter and the latter is an 8-pole filter.  The CW 
filters that I'm
ordering (250 and 400) all will be the 8-pole variety.

Since I didn't put the paddle and mic on the initial order for the KX3, 
I was curious
if I could order them now, along with the K3.  Lisa provided the answer 
almost
immediately:  yes on the mic and no on the paddle.

73 de Jim - AD6CW



On 4/4/2012 5:29 PM, david Moes wrote:
> The most painful part of ordering a new toy is the wait for it to arrive
> after the order is placed.
>
> Its ordered   just the K3, KPA100 and KAT3  for now.
>
>
>> Im Ordering in kit form a pretty basic rig to start with then adding
>> later as funds allow.Just K3-100 KAT3 and perhaps one filter for CW
>> to start.
>> I need it running before Field Day  as I doubt my current rig that's
>> well used, aged and starting to show problems,  will survive another
>> trip to the bigtop in the park.
>>
>> I am wondering how long after the order does it typically take for K3
>> kit orders to ship?   second  outside of my growing enjoyment in
>> contesting and DX  I do so some rag chew and  take the net control
>> chair,  is the 2.8 8-pole filter going to offer much difference in the
>> audio on both RX and TX?  In other words what advantages does the
>> 2.8 offer over the 2.7
>>
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic

[Brian Denley]

Don:
Looking out my window, I can just see the old plant where National Radio 
used to be housed, about a mile and a half away.  It's on the Malden - 
Melrose line, beside the railroad tracks.  As a teenager, I dreamed of one 
day owing one of those new HRO-500s.  Never did get one.
Brian KB1VBF
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?


> Dave,
>
> I have to agree.  My rig prior to the K2 was a Yaesu FT-900AT.  I think
> that rig is one of Yaesu's best kept secrets - good performance in a 100
> watt class transmitter and  good receive performance.  Removable front
> panel - but the buttons and knobs were quite close together.  When I
> built my Field Test K2, I was surprised how much space there was between
> the buttons and knobs.
>
> OK, there is not as much space between them as on my National NC-100
> receiver, but then that receiver is heavy (I have not weighed it), and
> it is 19 inches wide and 8.5 inches high - the desktop rack cabinet it
> resides in is 21 inches wide and about 16 inches deep.  It is a real
> behemoth compared to the K2 or the K3 or KX3, and all 3 of those
> transceiver have vastly more function than that NC-100.
>
> That NC-100 has sentimental value because that receiver traded hands
> between my old Elmer W8ELL and I several times - the price was always
> what he initially bought it for - $35.  Because of that fact, it will
> pass with my estate - I will never sell it.
>
> So yes, I look at the comments that the Elecraft buttons are too close,
> and I compare them with my FT-900 and just "shake my head" - either
> those ops have really, really FAT fingers or they have not experienced
> transceivers like the Yaesu FT-900.
>
> The FT-817 is much worse for econometrics - the tuning knob is too
> small, the menus are too deep and the buttons are too small - yes, I
> have an FT-817, and those are my user's assessments.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

[Steve Dyer]

Thanks Ron. Yes, Don replied and suggested some things to look at (thanks Don!).

And yes, it does it when the KPA100 is removed.

73,
Steve
W1SRD





From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
To: Steve Dyer ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, April 4, 2012 2:50:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [K2] Re:  Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

Don, W3FPR, will have suggestions. He must be away today, but he services
K2's and K2/100's and has done so for many years. He is an invaluable
resource on this reflector. 

One question: Does it do the fault with the KPA100 removed? That will tell
you which part of the K2 to start looking in. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Dyer
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

Any suggestions or areas I can investigate from anyone?
73,
Steve





From: Steve Dyer 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, April 3, 2012 8:35:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Was Working Fine... Then HiCur


K2 new/old build. S/N is 2338, built base K2 and KNB2 10 years ago, put
away and only finished up recently with KPA100, KAT100 and KSB2. 



On air for couple weeks with good results. Suddenly starts giving
intermittent 
HiCur messages yesterday. 


Tore out KPA100 and KSB2. 

-Occurs on all bands tested (40, 30, 20, 17, 12, 10) (no dummy  load, but 
checked R with Rig Experts AA-54 and tested close to 50 ohm  points with
almost 
no Z). 

-Happens with Tune or keying at all power settings 
-Message displays at key-up when hand keying/tune, will happen quickly with 
keyer and then fold-back power. 

-Cal Cur is 3.5A 
-Measured power output with external wattmeter (SX-200) and power tracked
fairly 

closely to setting 

-Will not happen if power is lowered to < 
-Checked power supply output voltage with DMM and it matches the K2 display 
voltage +.4V. PS is set to 14V. 

-Current draw on 40M @ 12W is 2.3A 13.1V (.5V drop), 17M @ 12W = 3.44A 12.9V

(.7V drop) 

-On 40M Q7 Base is .611V Q8 is .612V  
-Completely disassembled and visually inspected all solder with  magnifying 
glass and re-heated common transformers and chokes in final.  Re-seated IOC
and 
MCU (lifted slightly and pushed back into socket). 

-Checked T4 windings 
-Have done the DC voltage tests suggested in the various threads about
HiCurr 
and everything looks normal. 



73, 
Steve 
W1SRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Don, W3FPR, will have suggestions. He must be away today, but he services
K2's and K2/100's and has done so for many years. He is an invaluable
resource on this reflector. 

One question: Does it do the fault with the KPA100 removed? That will tell
you which part of the K2 to start looking in. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Dyer
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

Any suggestions or areas I can investigate from anyone?
73,
Steve





From: Steve Dyer 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, April 3, 2012 8:35:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Was Working Fine... Then HiCur


K2 new/old build. S/N is 2338, built base K2 and KNB2 10 years ago, put
away and only finished up recently with KPA100, KAT100 and KSB2. 



On air for couple weeks with good results. Suddenly starts giving
intermittent 
HiCur messages yesterday. 


Tore out KPA100 and KSB2. 

-Occurs on all bands tested (40, 30, 20, 17, 12, 10) (no dummy  load, but 
checked R with Rig Experts AA-54 and tested close to 50 ohm  points with
almost 
no Z). 

-Happens with Tune or keying at all power settings 
-Message displays at key-up when hand keying/tune, will happen quickly with 
keyer and then fold-back power. 

-Cal Cur is 3.5A 
-Measured power output with external wattmeter (SX-200) and power tracked
fairly 

closely to setting 

-Will not happen if power is lowered to < 
-Checked power supply output voltage with DMM and it matches the K2 display 
voltage +.4V. PS is set to 14V. 

-Current draw on 40M @ 12W is 2.3A 13.1V (.5V drop), 17M @ 12W = 3.44A 12.9V

(.7V drop) 

-On 40M Q7 Base is .611V Q8 is .612V  
-Completely disassembled and visually inspected all solder with  magnifying 
glass and re-heated common transformers and chokes in final.  Re-seated IOC
and 
MCU (lifted slightly and pushed back into socket). 

-Checked T4 windings 
-Have done the DC voltage tests suggested in the various threads about
HiCurr 
and everything looks normal. 



73, 
Steve 
W1SRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

The KPA3 will throttle back power at or above the SWR = 2.0 point.  
Actually, I am not certain about the K3/10 - it may or may not reduce 
power above SWR = 2.0,. but I would suggest that your goal for antenna 
tuning be less than SWR = 2.0.

I you have resonant antennas, then it should be a good thing to tune 
them for less than a 2-1 SWR, but if you are using a properly tuned 
multiband antenna, you should already have an SWR less than 2-1.
If you are using a non-resonant antenna, you already have a tuner 
installed - just set the tuner for the lowest reflected power possible.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2012 8:33 PM, David Stratton wrote:
> At what point does the SWR have to rise up to before
>
> the K3/10 output power begins to decrease?
>
> I have been using a TS-830 which is not bothered by
>
> SWR up to at least 3:1. I cannot get the tuner now so
>
> will I be forced to run very low power if my SWR is 2
>
> or 3 to 1? What about the K3/100?
>
>
>
> My antennas are resonant fan dipoles (80, 40, 20, 17)
>
> fed with 250 feet of 72 ohm cable TV coax.
>
>
>
> Dave - KO4KL
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Poised to place my order

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

I hope you ordered the KPA3 rather than the KPA100.
The KPA100 is for the K2.

If you did actually order the KPA100, just contact sa...@elecraft.com to 
modify your order.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2012 8:29 PM, david Moes wrote:
> The most painful part of ordering a new toy is the wait for it to arrive
> after the order is placed.
>
> Its ordered   just the K3, KPA100 and KAT3  for now.
>
>
>> Im Ordering in kit form a pretty basic rig to start with then adding
>> later as funds allow.Just K3-100 KAT3 and perhaps one filter for CW
>> to start.
>> I need it running before Field Day  as I doubt my current rig that's
>> well used, aged and starting to show problems,  will survive another
>> trip to the bigtop in the park.
>>
>> I am wondering how long after the order does it typically take for K3
>> kit orders to ship?   second  outside of my growing enjoyment in
>> contesting and DX  I do so some rag chew and  take the net control
>> chair,  is the 2.8 8-pole filter going to offer much difference in the
>> audio on both RX and TX?  In other words what advantages does the
>> 2.8 offer over the 2.7
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

I have to agree.  My rig prior to the K2 was a Yaesu FT-900AT.  I think 
that rig is one of Yaesu's best kept secrets - good performance in a 100 
watt class transmitter and  good receive performance.  Removable front 
panel - but the buttons and knobs were quite close together.  When I 
built my Field Test K2, I was surprised how much space there was between 
the buttons and knobs.

OK, there is not as much space between them as on my National NC-100 
receiver, but then that receiver is heavy (I have not weighed it), and 
it is 19 inches wide and 8.5 inches high - the desktop rack cabinet it 
resides in is 21 inches wide and about 16 inches deep.  It is a real 
behemoth compared to the K2 or the K3 or KX3, and all 3 of those 
transceiver have vastly more function than that NC-100.

That NC-100 has sentimental value because that receiver traded hands 
between my old Elmer W8ELL and I several times - the price was always 
what he initially bought it for - $35.  Because of that fact, it will 
pass with my estate - I will never sell it.

So yes, I look at the comments that the Elecraft buttons are too close, 
and I compare them with my FT-900 and just "shake my head" - either 
those ops have really, really FAT fingers or they have not experienced 
transceivers like the Yaesu FT-900.

The FT-817 is much worse for econometrics - the tuning knob is too 
small, the menus are too deep and the buttons are too small - yes, I 
have an FT-817, and those are my user's assessments.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2012 7:57 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
> I have to fully agree on both points.
>
> When I bought my K3 I kept hearing all the comments about the density of
> the knobs on the front panel, so I actually did a comparison to my old
> 756Pro.  I measured the area of each front panel and divided by the
> number of knobs and buttons.  Guess what ... the K3 was about 25% less
> dense than the 756Pro, and none of the K3 knobs are as inaccessible as
> the five ridiculously small ones at the bottom left of the Icom.
>
> I did indeed spend quite a bit of time in the menu when I originally set
> up my K3 but I've had my rig for over three years now, I'm reasonably
> active in contests, and I honestly cannot remember the last time I used
> the menu for anything.  Once it is set up to suit your operating
> preferences you can access just about everything you operationally need
> from the front panel ... the obvious exception being quick changing of
> AGC parameters.
>
> I'm not saying that the ergonomics of the K3 are ideal, but in my
> opinion most people who complain about it either are too lazy to learn
> the rig, haven't actually tried it, or what they really want (without
> admitting it) is simply a rig that is impressively large.
>
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
>
>
>
> On 4/4/2012 3:53 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
>> My hands are not small and the K3 has plenty of spacing between its
>> buttions and knobs that inadvertent contact is due to my sloppy reach
>> rather than an issue with the K3.  Like any other radio it does take
>> some time to learn well.  The menus are for configuration and once you
>> have it working as you like it, you're not going to be getting back into
>> them.  In other words, menu access is rarely needed for day-to-day
>> operation.
>>
>> If performance is anywhere in your list of desirable features, then the
>> K3 is the only choice, IMO.
>>
>> 73, de Nate, N0NB>>
>>
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[Elecraft] K3 power reduction due to high SWR

[David Stratton]

At what point does the SWR have to rise up to before

the K3/10 output power begins to decrease? 

I have been using a TS-830 which is not bothered by 

SWR up to at least 3:1. I cannot get the tuner now so

will I be forced to run very low power if my SWR is 2

or 3 to 1? What about the K3/100? 

 

My antennas are resonant fan dipoles (80, 40, 20, 17)

fed with 250 feet of 72 ohm cable TV coax. 

 

Dave - KO4KL

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Poised to place my order

[david Moes]

The most painful part of ordering a new toy is the wait for it to arrive 
after the order is placed.

Its ordered   just the K3, KPA100 and KAT3  for now.


> Im Ordering in kit form a pretty basic rig to start with then adding
> later as funds allow.Just K3-100 KAT3 and perhaps one filter for CW
> to start.
> I need it running before Field Day  as I doubt my current rig that's
> well used, aged and starting to show problems,  will survive another
> trip to the bigtop in the park.
>
>I am wondering how long after the order does it typically take for K3
> kit orders to ship?   second  outside of my growing enjoyment in
> contesting and DX  I do so some rag chew and  take the net control
> chair,  is the 2.8 8-pole filter going to offer much difference in the
> audio on both RX and TX?  In other words what advantages does the
> 2.8 offer over the 2.7
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3 [Thread Closed]

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Folks, this thread was closed earlier today in the interest of reducing 
the list noise level due to its high number of postings.

73,

Eric
List Moderator
---
www.elecraft.com


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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?

[David Gilbert]

I have to fully agree on both points.

When I bought my K3 I kept hearing all the comments about the density of 
the knobs on the front panel, so I actually did a comparison to my old 
756Pro.  I measured the area of each front panel and divided by the 
number of knobs and buttons.  Guess what ... the K3 was about 25% less 
dense than the 756Pro, and none of the K3 knobs are as inaccessible as 
the five ridiculously small ones at the bottom left of the Icom.

I did indeed spend quite a bit of time in the menu when I originally set 
up my K3 but I've had my rig for over three years now, I'm reasonably 
active in contests, and I honestly cannot remember the last time I used 
the menu for anything.  Once it is set up to suit your operating 
preferences you can access just about everything you operationally need 
from the front panel ... the obvious exception being quick changing of 
AGC parameters.

I'm not saying that the ergonomics of the K3 are ideal, but in my 
opinion most people who complain about it either are too lazy to learn 
the rig, haven't actually tried it, or what they really want (without 
admitting it) is simply a rig that is impressively large.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 4/4/2012 3:53 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
> My hands are not small and the K3 has plenty of spacing between its
> buttions and knobs that inadvertent contact is due to my sloppy reach
> rather than an issue with the K3.  Like any other radio it does take
> some time to learn well.  The menus are for configuration and once you
> have it working as you like it, you're not going to be getting back into
> them.  In other words, menu access is rarely needed for day-to-day
> operation.
>
> If performance is anywhere in your list of desirable features, then the
> K3 is the only choice, IMO.
>
> 73, de Nate, N0NB>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3

[Don Baucom]

Dont worry about 1,000 more. If you really get into this hobby there many
more 1,000 dollar decisions down the road. I have yet to see a Flex on a
SOTA activation video

73
Don
K4YND

--
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3

[Wayne Burdick]

Steve is taking me up on the IC-730S, which I just dusted off and  
tested this afternoon.

It's a bit of a shock to see the KX3 sitting next to the IC-730 and  
realize just how far we've come. Six KX3s would fit inside the IC730,  
yet the KX3 has a much better display, more bands, more modes, DSP  
features, internal ATU and batteries, and much better dynamic range.

Best of all, there's no multi-section band switch :)  Steve is going  
to have to hit it with some contact cleaner.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 4, 2012, at 1:59 PM, 4Z5TO wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> Not a sage Elmer, but it would seem to me that the KX3 would bee  
> your better
> choice and this is why since you mentioned "travel"...
>
> The Flex3000 is 90 more watts, but you will also need an outboard  
> computer
> of some sort to go with it, there is no other way to really control  
> it from
> my understanding- (maybe there's a smart phone/tablet app you could  
> use).
>
> While on the other hand, the KX3 is totally self-dependent requiring  
> nothing
> else except an antenna (the Flex will need an antenna too) as there  
> is a
> control panel attached to it - no extra laptop/desktop w/monitor  
> required.
>
> At any rate for either rig I would invest in a good antenna system  
> so you
> can take advantage of max wattage should you decide to do so.  
> Amazingly
> enough, you can make a lot of good contacts with 10 watts.
>
> So it seems to boil down to this, how much traveling do you do where  
> you
> really expect to operate your rig?
>
> 73,
> Douglas
>
> -
> In Italy for 30 years under the Borgias they had warfare, terror,  
> murder, bloodshed - they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci  
> and the Renaissance. In Switzerland they had brotherly love, 500  
> years of democracy and peace and what did that produce? The cuckoo  
> clock.  - Orsen Welles
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Flex-3000-or-KX3-tp7422850p7438046.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?

[Nate Bargmann]

My hands are not small and the K3 has plenty of spacing between its
buttions and knobs that inadvertent contact is due to my sloppy reach
rather than an issue with the K3.  Like any other radio it does take
some time to learn well.  The menus are for configuration and once you
have it working as you like it, you're not going to be getting back into
them.  In other words, menu access is rarely needed for day-to-day
operation.

If performance is anywhere in your list of desirable features, then the
K3 is the only choice, IMO.

73, de Nate, N0NB >>

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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[Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?

[David Perrin]

Hi Bob-
 That is a dilemma for sure.  I enjoy building and assembling as much as 
operating so the K3, P3 and KPA500 and K2/100 are all contenders. Too many 
controls and many menus are a hassle so the K3 lessens its appeal to me. The 
ORION II is the perfect size, I can actually can get my fingers on one knob 
without  touching the adjacent knob and accidently moving it as well.  The 
controls are well spaced and grouped well. Diversity reception is very cool, 
but not a deal maker or breaker. (This is getting to take up some serious desk 
real estate).
 To me the EAGLE is a good size for the few . controls that it has, menus are 
not deep, the receiver is excellent, the CW bandwidth is excellent, its easy to 
connect to for digi modes and it doesn't require that you have the manual 
sitting beside you all the time you're using it. The EAGLE is simple and fun 
and leaves lot's of space for other gadgets. For a first rig, I think I would 
pick the EAGLE. Beyond that it is a wide wide world!! (I don't own one, but I 
will).

73 de Dave, K1OPQ

Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 11:39:44 -0700
From: Bob K6UJ 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which rig to buy...consider this
To: Elecraft List 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Dave,

If you could have only one of those radios you mentioned which one would it be ?

Bob
K6UJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3

[4Z5TO]

When I wrote, "While on the other hand, the KX3 is totally self-dependent..."
that would include all the given "extras" you mentioned. You will also need
some of those with the Flex don't forget.

73,
Douglas

-
In Italy for 30 years under the Borgias they had warfare, terror, murder, 
bloodshed - they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. 
In Switzerland they had brotherly love, 500 years of democracy and peace and 
what did that produce? The cuckoo clock.  - Orsen Welles
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Flex-3000-or-KX3-tp7422850p7438053.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3

[4Z5TO]

Hi Steve,

Not a sage Elmer, but it would seem to me that the KX3 would bee your better
choice and this is why since you mentioned "travel"...

The Flex3000 is 90 more watts, but you will also need an outboard computer
of some sort to go with it, there is no other way to really control it from
my understanding- (maybe there's a smart phone/tablet app you could use).

While on the other hand, the KX3 is totally self-dependent requiring nothing
else except an antenna (the Flex will need an antenna too) as there is a
control panel attached to it - no extra laptop/desktop w/monitor required.

At any rate for either rig I would invest in a good antenna system so you
can take advantage of max wattage should you decide to do so. Amazingly
enough, you can make a lot of good contacts with 10 watts.

So it seems to boil down to this, how much traveling do you do where you
really expect to operate your rig?

73,
Douglas

-
In Italy for 30 years under the Borgias they had warfare, terror, murder, 
bloodshed - they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. 
In Switzerland they had brotherly love, 500 years of democracy and peace and 
what did that produce? The cuckoo clock.  - Orsen Welles
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Flex-3000-or-KX3-tp7422850p7438046.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Well, I composed a reply to your question earlier, but it apparently was 
not sent, sorry.

That behavior is usually caused by damaged wattmeter diodes in the 
KPA100, but it sounds like you have physically removed the KPA100 and 
that condition still exists.

It appears from your post that you have power control.
Check the voltage as displayed on the K2 display during transmit.  How 
much does the voltage drop?
Recheck T4 and the soldering of the "link" wires, R58, Z1 and Z2.

Please confirm that it is happening with the bare base K2 - no KAT2, no 
KPA100, no KAT100 connected.
If the  above is true, check the DC voltage at the cathode on D9 on the 
RF board - it should be a little above 5 volts with 10 watts actual 
output.  You should also have about that same voltage at Control Board 
P4 pin 10 and the MCU (U6) pin 2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2012 3:03 PM, Steve Dyer wrote:
> Any suggestions or areas I can investigate from anyone?
> 73,
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> 
> From: Steve Dyer
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Tue, April 3, 2012 8:35:04 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Was Working Fine... Then HiCur
>
>
> K2 new/old build. S/N is 2338, built base K2 and KNB2 10 years ago, put  away
> and only finished up recently with KPA100, KAT100 and KSB2.
>
>
>
> On air for couple weeks with good results. Suddenly starts giving intermittent
> HiCur messages yesterday.
>
>
> Tore out KPA100 and KSB2.
>
> -Occurs on all bands tested (40, 30, 20, 17, 12, 10) (no dummy  load, but
> checked R with Rig Experts AA-54 and tested close to 50 ohm  points with 
> almost
> no Z).
>
> -Happens with Tune or keying at all power settings
> -Message displays at key-up when hand keying/tune, will happen quickly with
> keyer and then fold-back power.
>
> -Cal Cur is 3.5A
> -Measured power output with external wattmeter (SX-200) and power tracked 
> fairly
>
> closely to setting
>
> -Will not happen if power is lowered to<
> -Checked power supply output voltage with DMM and it matches the K2 display
> voltage +.4V. PS is set to 14V.
>
> -Current draw on 40M @ 12W is 2.3A 13.1V (.5V drop), 17M @ 12W = 3.44A 12.9V
> (.7V drop)
>
> -On 40M Q7 Base is .611V Q8 is .612V
> -Completely disassembled and visually inspected all solder with  magnifying
> glass and re-heated common transformers and chokes in final.  Re-seated IOC 
> and
> MCU (lifted slightly and pushed back into socket).
>
> -Checked T4 windings
> -Have done the DC voltage tests suggested in the various threads about HiCurr
> and everything looks normal.
>
>
>
> 73,
> Steve
> W1SRD
>
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[Elecraft] Which rig

[r miles]

We were just there. I use a K3/KPA500. My XYL who is mostly a contest 
OP on SSB needed an updated radio for her desk. We didn't want to spend 
the cost of a 2nd K3 as she only operates a few DX contests & FD. We 
would have prefered American made but the TT Eagle was the only other 
option. We compared it to a Kenwood TS 590s. By the time you get one or 
two roofing filters the cost of the Eagle approached the K3. The TT 
filters were 4 pole vs the 8 pole in the K3. The Kenwood had all the 
filters built in along with a few bells & whistles the TT didn't. The 
cost was $400 less for the Kenwood. But what really killed the TT Eagle 
was two things most above entry level radios  have & the TT doesn't. It 
has only  one SO 239 antenna  port. So you screw & unscrew or use an 
external antenna switch. Really unhandy if you have HF/VHF antennas as 
we do. It also has no RX ant input. Needless to say I got her the TS 
590s. The most  radio  for the money. It's a fine radio but it's NO 
K3...

K9IL & W9DHD
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[Elecraft] [K2] Re: Was Working Fine... Then HiCur

[Steve Dyer]

Any suggestions or areas I can investigate from anyone?
73,
Steve





From: Steve Dyer 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, April 3, 2012 8:35:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Was Working Fine... Then HiCur


K2 new/old build. S/N is 2338, built base K2 and KNB2 10 years ago, put  away 
and only finished up recently with KPA100, KAT100 and KSB2. 



On air for couple weeks with good results. Suddenly starts giving intermittent 
HiCur messages yesterday. 


Tore out KPA100 and KSB2. 

-Occurs on all bands tested (40, 30, 20, 17, 12, 10) (no dummy  load, but 
checked R with Rig Experts AA-54 and tested close to 50 ohm  points with almost 
no Z). 

-Happens with Tune or keying at all power settings 
-Message displays at key-up when hand keying/tune, will happen quickly with 
keyer and then fold-back power. 

-Cal Cur is 3.5A 
-Measured power output with external wattmeter (SX-200) and power tracked 
fairly 

closely to setting 

-Will not happen if power is lowered to < 
-Checked power supply output voltage with DMM and it matches the K2 display 
voltage +.4V. PS is set to 14V. 

-Current draw on 40M @ 12W is 2.3A 13.1V (.5V drop), 17M @ 12W = 3.44A 12.9V 
(.7V drop) 

-On 40M Q7 Base is .611V Q8 is .612V  
-Completely disassembled and visually inspected all solder with  magnifying 
glass and re-heated common transformers and chokes in final.  Re-seated IOC and 
MCU (lifted slightly and pushed back into socket). 

-Checked T4 windings 
-Have done the DC voltage tests suggested in the various threads about HiCurr 
and everything looks normal. 



73, 
Steve 
W1SRD 
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[Elecraft] Impedance from KAT2/KAT-100 results - free web application

[Chris Kimball]

The results provided by the KAT2/ KAT-100 tuner allow the estimation of the
impedance at the tuner terminals.  I've generated a Java web application,
K2Z, available at



that does the calculations.  It's free!

Testing and comments are appreciated.

Chris 
NQ8Z

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Re: [Elecraft] P3VGA drops signal level when I qsy

[Vic K2VCO]

In tracking mode, it happens when you tune either VFO A or B. In fixed mode, it 
only seems 
to occur when you move VFO B.

At least this is my experience. But Elecraft is aware of it and I'm sure it 
will get fixed.

On 4/4/2012 10:39 AM, ai6ii wrote:
> I am using fixed mode. I will switch modes when I get home and check it out.
> Sounds like the issue I am having.
>
> Thanks  ..mike AI6II

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 details

[Don Wilhelm]

Allan,

If you operate HF with the K2 as well as transverters, then the K60XV is 
the only way to go IMHO - the HF antennas stay connected and the 
transverter connects to the transverter IN and OUT jacks.

BTW, I would recommend either buying the updated lower  rear panel or 
drilling your existing one for the RCA jacks on the rear panel.  Using 
the upper BNC jack holes creates a problem with serviceability when the 
top cover is removed - unless you provide some means of disconnecting 
the cables between those jacks and the K60XV board.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2012 10:46 AM, k...@charter.net wrote:
> I am about to jump into the world of transverters with the purchase of
> an XV144 to pair
> with my K2. The K2 is a very early S/N but has had 'most' of the
> updates. I would like to
> make the use of the transverter as painless as possible. So I checked
> out the 60m mod
> page on the Elecraft reflector. There seems to be much going on that
> doesn't really
> concern my primary interest (getting on 2m cw/ssb for
> mountaintopping/SOTA trips). Not
> that 60m coverage wouldn't be a good thing. So I ask, is the KV60 (?)
> the best way to go?
> There apprered a cascade of 'other' mods if I wanted to actually use
> 60m, etc. Some
> advice by someone who has been there, please!!
>
> Oh, I am currently using one of the transverter in/out port holes in the
> upper panel for
> a jack to charge the internal LiFePO4 battery pack installed a month
> ago. I could
> relocate the jack, but would really rather not. I do have the KIO2
> installed.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Lp-Pan

[DGB]

Found one ... thanks 73 Dwight NS9I

On 4/4/2012 8:53 AM, DGB wrote:
> Does anyone have a new or used LP-Pan for the K-3 for sale? Prefer the
> pre-amp version but would consider without. Also looking for an E-MU
> 0202 or 0204 ext. soundcard?
>
> please reply off the list with price.
>
> thanks 73 Dwight NS9I
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Re: [Elecraft] P3VGA drops signal level when I qsy

[ai6ii]

I am using fixed mode. I will switch modes when I get home and check it out.
Sounds like the issue I am having.

Thanks  ..mike AI6II

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Re: [Elecraft] The Old K1 and Other Things

[Mike Morrow]

Curt wrote:

> I bought a two-band filter for 17&15, then used info posted circa 2006 on 
> this reflector to turn it into a 12M/10M board.

That's progress, and a more detailed post from you listing all the technical
details would be welcome.

> So, no need to wait, the K1 can readily be put on 12&10.

That falls well short of fulfilling a need for a four-band high-band KFL1-4.
As interesting as 12m and 10m are, a board supporting *in addition* the
essential 15m band and either 17m or 20m would be what makes the whole
effort worthwhile.  Swapping K1 filter boards is an aggravation, so most of
those "solar maximum bands" need to be on one board.  It wouldn't bother me
that I'd need to re-calibrate the VFO for 15m and 20m when swapping between
the low-band 40m/30m/20m/15m board and a high-band 20m/15m/12m/10m board.

The current four-band low-band KFL1-4 is already *almost* configured for the
high-band version.  One section already covers any two of the 20m, 17m, or 15m
bands.  Required are only the alteration of the 40m/30m section for 12m/10m,
and specifying any changes in the K1 itself.  A high-band KFL1-4 would likely
be the easiest-developed new option offered for any Elecraft rig ever.  This
would be the ideal KFL1-4 for the next few years of the solar cycle.

But, I suspect that the K1 is considered by its developers as less than last
decade's news.  The LCD back-light is the only new thing offered since then.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] KV60 Experiences

[Mike Mussler]

Allan,
I installed the KV60 on my K2 (serial 5625) and the transverter feature is
the item I use the most. I've used various other schemes with transverters
over the years (modified exciters, dedicated IF transmitters and receivers,
etc) and it really makes using transverters with the K2 seemless in
comparison. 

My current application uses the K2 with a homebrew 600m transverter on the
ARRL 600m experimental license (WD2XSH/12). I was even able to set up the
K2's frequency readout to display the actual RF frequency at 500 kHz.
Exciter power levels are well managed and there is no wasted power at the K2
PA stages. I've been using the K2 in this manner day-in and day-out on WSPR
mode for the past three years with no problems whatsoever. I can easily
switch to normal HF operation without messing with level settings, cables
and terminations.

As with all of the K2 accessories and modifications I have installed over
the years, the KV60 is well engineered and I'm really glad that I got one.

73
Mike
AI8Z
WD2XSH/12  

 
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of k...@charter.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 8:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] XV144 details


I am about to jump into the world of transverters with the purchase of 
an XV144 to pair
with my K2. The K2 is a very early S/N but has had 'most' of the 
updates. I would like to
make the use of the transverter as painless as possible. So I checked 
out the 60m mod
page on the Elecraft reflector. There seems to be much going on that 
doesn't really
concern my primary interest (getting on 2m cw/ssb for 
mountaintopping/SOTA trips). Not
that 60m coverage wouldn't be a good thing. So I ask, is the KV60 (?) 
the best way to go?
There apprered a cascade of 'other' mods if I wanted to actually use 
60m, etc. Some
advice by someone who has been there, please!!

Oh, I am currently using one of the transverter in/out port holes in the 
upper panel for
a jack to charge the internal LiFePO4 battery pack installed a month 
ago. I could
relocate the jack, but would really rather not. I do have the KIO2 
installed.

Allan K7GT
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA unit

[Christopher Plummer]

 
 
I'm now one of four proud owners of this addition to the P3.  All installations 
went well and quite quickly and with superb results, thanks Elecraft
 
De G8APB, G3UJE, G3KAF, and M0VAA 
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[Elecraft] The Old K1 and Other Things

[Curt]

I bought a two-band filter for 17&15, then used info posted circa 2006 on 
this reflector to turn it into a 12M/10M board.  Result worked fairly well 
with 4W out on 12M and 2W out on 10M.  So, no need to wait, the K1 can 
readily be put on 12&10.  The K1 needs to tune 150kHz range, had already 
modified mine to achieve that to permit covering the 40M novice section.

GL & 72, Curt KB5JO

>I'd order a high-band KFL1-4 the instant I heard of one being available.
>The solar activity iron is hot for this minor product...and there are
>about 3300 K1 units out there in need!


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Re: [Elecraft] Flex 3000 or KX3 [END of Thread]

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

[END of thread] We're hitting the volume limit for postings on this one.

73,

Eric
List moderator
---
www.elecraft.com


On 4/3/2012 5:37 PM, Jussi Eloranta wrote:
> On 04/03/2012 05:01 PM, Stu2 wrote:
>> On the other hand, if you like the idea of doing things in software
>> (e.g. VAC connections to FLDIGI, etc.) then you will have a good time
>> with the Flex. The CW issues are fixed for normal operations (<35WPM
>> non-QSK) and it's a lot of fun to work DX in split pile up. If you are a
>> computer geek and a visual person - this is the radio.
> Except most computer geeks run linux and flex will get you nowhere.
> I would prefer kx3 which at least supports linux for updating firmware
> and there is 3rd party software that allows to control it in k3 compat.
> mode.
>
> Jussi Eloranta (AA6KJ)
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 100 watt amplifier

[Jim Brown]

On 4/4/2012 6:38 AM, Larry wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a 100 watt amplifier for 2 meters for 
> the k3?

I like the vintage RF Concepts "brick" amps.  They're still around on 
the used market. There are several versions, all of which will put 
out170W. The difference is how much power it takes to drive them -- 10W, 
30W, 45W.  I have several of them for 2M and 440 MHz.

The older Mirage amps, from when they were made in California, are also 
winners.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] 500watt amp

[Tony Read]

Sorry for air space 
Silly question i am looking for KPA 500 was looking for a K3 but feel better
at this stage to try and get an amp. 
Thanks 
Tony 



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[Elecraft] XV144 details

[k7gt]

I am about to jump into the world of transverters with the purchase of 
an XV144 to pair
with my K2. The K2 is a very early S/N but has had 'most' of the 
updates. I would like to
make the use of the transverter as painless as possible. So I checked 
out the 60m mod
page on the Elecraft reflector. There seems to be much going on that 
doesn't really
concern my primary interest (getting on 2m cw/ssb for 
mountaintopping/SOTA trips). Not
that 60m coverage wouldn't be a good thing. So I ask, is the KV60 (?) 
the best way to go?
There apprered a cascade of 'other' mods if I wanted to actually use 
60m, etc. Some
advice by someone who has been there, please!!

Oh, I am currently using one of the transverter in/out port holes in the 
upper panel for
a jack to charge the internal LiFePO4 battery pack installed a month 
ago. I could
relocate the jack, but would really rather not. I do have the KIO2 
installed.

Allan K7GT
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Re: [Elecraft] P3VGA drops signal level when I qsy

[Greg]

This is a known issue and only presents itself when in fixed mode.  In
tracking mode it does not do it.  Note...I am not near my rig right
now so it may be the other way around :).  I think Paul said this
should be addressed on the next update.

73
Greg
AB7R


On 4/4/12, Mike K2MK  wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> What is the external monitor resolution? Does it do it in both Tracking mode
> and Fixed Tune mode? Does it do it for narrow and wide spans? Have you
> turned off any PC programs that might be sharing VFO information?
>
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
>
>
> ai6ii wrote
>>
>> Just installed P3VGA and the latest 1.13 FW. When I qsy using K3 tuning
>> knob or set the A marker on the P3 to a new frequency and tap the knob to
>> qsy the signal level flattens out to nearly zero and then returns to the
>> correct level. Anyone else having this problem? The screen image on the P3
>> does not do this, only the large display.
>>
>> ..mike AI6II
>>
>
>
> --
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Re: [Elecraft] 100 watt amplifier

[John Ragle]

Amps like the TE Systems 1405G will take 1 watt to 100 watts. Google TE 
Systems -->Ham/Amateur RF Amplifiers. There are several amps in the 
general 100 watt range. I have 3 of the TE Systems amps (50, 144, and 
432 MHz) in the several hundred watt range, and am very happy with them. 
Sometimes Dave is a bit slow on answering the telephone...I would try 
him in the mid-afternoon CA time.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 4/4/2012 9:38 AM, Larry wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a 100 watt amplifier for 2 meters 
> for the k3? Thanks in advance. k4mwe
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>
>

-- 
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[Elecraft] Lp-Pan

[DGB]

Does anyone have a new or used LP-Pan for the K-3 for sale? Prefer the 
pre-amp version but would consider without. Also looking for an E-MU 
0202 or 0204 ext. soundcard?

please reply off the list with price.

thanks 73 Dwight NS9I
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[Elecraft] 100 watt amplifier

[Larry]

   Does anyone have a recommendation for a 100 watt amplifier for 2 meters for 
the k3? Thanks in advance. k4mwe 
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Re: [Elecraft] For the CW OPS

[Craig Smith]

Steve has done some amazing things with mobile ham gear and computers, 
especially considering that much of his work was done in the 70s and 80s.   
Subsequent to his mobile recumbent bicycle projects, last I knew he was working 
on doing the same with kayak based sailing vessels with extensive computerized 
control.

Steve  stayed overnight with me on one of his cross-country bike trips around 
1980 when I lived in upstate NY.  We had a common interest both in long 
distance bicycle touring and ham radio.

If you ever get a chance to hear him speak about his projects, I highly 
recommend the experience.

73  Craig  AC0DS


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Re: [Elecraft] For the CW OPS

[Rose]

Phil,

The photo of Steve sitting on the ground near the pine trees was taken in
our
yard here in Montana.  Steve and Maggie ... his Lady at the time ...
stayed
about week.

73!
Rose - N7HKW
elecraftcov...@gmail.com

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 6:00 AM, Phil Genera  wrote:

> I had a tape of an interview he did on a talk show years ago and
> thought it was the greatest thing ever (and man, chording straight
> ascii? So neat).
>
> The last bike was called 'behemoth' and now sits in the Computer
> History Museum in Mountain View, CA (also one of my favorite places
> when I was a kid, when it was in Boston and a robot arm would spell
> your name in wooden blocks).
>
> Some good shots of the rig here:
> http://microship.com/resources/winnebiko-behemoth.html
>
> --
> Phil, KJ6PON
>
> On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 21:44, N6JW  wrote:
> >
> > Amazing, indeed!  Steve, N4RVE, even had a brief encounter with Elecraft!
> > Scroll down to the bottom of his webpage and search for "elecraft"
> >
> > 73
> >
> > John, N6JW
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Re: [Elecraft] P3VGA drops signal level when I qsy

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Mike,

What is the external monitor resolution? Does it do it in both Tracking mode
and Fixed Tune mode? Does it do it for narrow and wide spans? Have you
turned off any PC programs that might be sharing VFO information?

73,
Mike K2MK


ai6ii wrote
> 
> Just installed P3VGA and the latest 1.13 FW. When I qsy using K3 tuning
> knob or set the A marker on the P3 to a new frequency and tap the knob to
> qsy the signal level flattens out to nearly zero and then returns to the
> correct level. Anyone else having this problem? The screen image on the P3
> does not do this, only the large display.
> 
> ..mike AI6II
> 


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