Re: [Elecraft] Remote power on/off progress for K3

2012-12-25 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
Actually it's pin 8, not 5. I use the DTR line on a COM port, with a
transistor level converter (identical to the simple FSK RTTY
interface[1]), to trigger it, with custom software. For testing
purposes, Hercules[2] is quite handy.

[1] http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html
[2] http://www.hw-group.com/products/hercules/index_en.html

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 12:52 AM, Jim Rhodes jimk...@gmail.com wrote:
 You need to provide a way to ground pin 5 on the aux connector. I do this
 with a remoterig interface. Any remote relay will work. This turns on the
 rig then the rig stays on even if the closure is momentary. To turn it off
 you need to send it the power down command via the command serial port. A
 macro within HRD will do this easily. The DC out jack on the K3 can then
 power a relay to turn on accessories.

 On Mon, Dec 24, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Chad Wasinger 
 chadwasin...@outlook.comwrote:

 Hi Group, Been searching the mailing list for a solution to turn on/off my
 K3 remotely via Ham Radio Deluxe or another means. Looks like there has
 been some posts on using serial activity as a trigger to turn on the radio.
 Just wondering if there has been any progress in this area or if someone
 has a simple solution? I'm not sure how Kenwood does it on their ts-2000
 but the remote on/off feature is pretty smooth via HRD. Suggestions?
 Thanks, Chad N0YK
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote power on/off progress for K3

2012-12-25 Thread Chad Wasinger
Thanks for the feedback. I want something simple, so hopefully the FSK will 
work for me.


Merry Christmas!
Chad
N0YK

-Original Message- 
From: iain macdonnell - N6ML

Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 4:00 AM
To: Jim Rhodes
Cc: Chad Wasinger ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remote power on/off progress for K3

Actually it's pin 8, not 5. I use the DTR line on a COM port, with a
transistor level converter (identical to the simple FSK RTTY
interface[1]), to trigger it, with custom software. For testing
purposes, Hercules[2] is quite handy.

[1] http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html
[2] http://www.hw-group.com/products/hercules/index_en.html

73,

   ~iain / N6ML


On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 12:52 AM, Jim Rhodes jimk...@gmail.com wrote:

You need to provide a way to ground pin 5 on the aux connector. I do this
with a remoterig interface. Any remote relay will work. This turns on the
rig then the rig stays on even if the closure is momentary. To turn it off
you need to send it the power down command via the command serial port. A
macro within HRD will do this easily. The DC out jack on the K3 can then
power a relay to turn on accessories.

On Mon, Dec 24, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Chad Wasinger 
chadwasin...@outlook.comwrote:


Hi Group, Been searching the mailing list for a solution to turn on/off 
my

K3 remotely via Ham Radio Deluxe or another means. Looks like there has
been some posts on using serial activity as a trigger to turn on the 
radio.

Just wondering if there has been any progress in this area or if someone
has a simple solution? I'm not sure how Kenwood does it on their ts-2000
but the remote on/off feature is pretty smooth via HRD. Suggestions?
Thanks, Chad N0YK
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

2012-12-25 Thread Ray Spreadbury
Hi Don

Thank you for your reply.
I visually checked the components in the preamp circuit  reflowed the
solder of them all including the relay, T6  Q21, but still got the same
results as before. The coil T6 wires have been put in the correct holes but
I can't check the wires were tinned correctly without removing it but I
think they were.

However, I did a dc voltage check on the transistor Q21  found some
anomalies- the E,B  C should be 1.6vdc, 2.3vdc  13.3vdc but with the
PreAmp OFF they are E 0.00vdc, B 0.00vdc  C 13.36vdc. With the PreAmp
switched on, they are E 0.00vdc, B 0.33vdc  C 13.17vdc. (For completeness I
checked them with the Attenuator switched on  they were the same as with
the PreAmp switched off.)

Does it look to you as though the transistor Q21, a 2N5109 is faulty?

Regards
Ray

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: 24 December 2012 21:38
To: Ray Spreadbury
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

Ray,

Check every component in the Pre-Amp circuit, including the relay.

Do you have the leads of T6 well stripped and tinned?  If so, check to see
that the leads are in the correct holes.
After that look critically at the solder pads for those components around
the preamp circuit - look at the schematic sheet 2 to identify those
components.  You should see the solder flow out to an almost invisible edge
on both the solder pad and the component lead.  It has been said that the
esolder connection should look like a mountain, but not a volcano - if there
is a ring around the lead or you do not have concave solder fillets, not
enough heat was applied to the connection.

73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

2012-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ray,

I would say that Q21 does not have adequate base voltage for it to 
conduct.  The base voltage should be about 2.3 volts.
Check R72 and R73 and C143 for good soldering and correct values. Check 
R75 on the bottom as well.
The base voltage is set by the voltage divider consisting of R72 and R73 
and R75.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/25/2012 11:28 AM, Ray Spreadbury wrote:

Hi Don

Thank you for your reply.
I visually checked the components in the preamp circuit  reflowed the
solder of them all including the relay, T6  Q21, but still got the same
results as before. The coil T6 wires have been put in the correct holes but
I can't check the wires were tinned correctly without removing it but I
think they were.

However, I did a dc voltage check on the transistor Q21  found some
anomalies- the E,B  C should be 1.6vdc, 2.3vdc  13.3vdc but with the
PreAmp OFF they are E 0.00vdc, B 0.00vdc  C 13.36vdc. With the PreAmp
switched on, they are E 0.00vdc, B 0.33vdc  C 13.17vdc. (For completeness I
checked them with the Attenuator switched on  they were the same as with
the PreAmp switched off.)

Does it look to you as though the transistor Q21, a 2N5109 is faulty?

Regards
Ray

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: 24 December 2012 21:38
To: Ray Spreadbury
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7340 PreAmp Problem

Ray,

Check every component in the Pre-Amp circuit, including the relay.

Do you have the leads of T6 well stripped and tinned?  If so, check to see
that the leads are in the correct holes.
After that look critically at the solder pads for those components around
the preamp circuit - look at the schematic sheet 2 to identify those
components.  You should see the solder flow out to an almost invisible edge
on both the solder pad and the component lead.  It has been said that the
esolder connection should look like a mountain, but not a volcano - if there
is a ring around the lead or you do not have concave solder fillets, not
enough heat was applied to the connection.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-25 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 13:58:35 -0500, Brian Alsop wrote:

 The first rule in troubleshooting is to unplug everything that isn't 
 absolutely necessary to the equipment being diagnosed.
 
 In this case all that would be needed is power, ant/dummy load and the K3.

Absolutely.  Make sure you use good quality connectors, cables, etc.  If
possible, plug the wattmeter directly into the RF output on the back of
the rig (NOT the tuner or amplifier), using a double male if possible,
and plug the PROPER, good quality dummy load directly into the
wattmeter.

Remember, every connector you go through, loses you fraction of a db.
How many connections, cables, etc., does it take to equal one db of
loss?  Not too many.  One db is 26%!  If you lose 1db getting between
the output port and the load, the load will only see 74W with 100W
output from the transmitter.  Something to think about.  A typical old
style tuner will lose you around 5 watts or more.

Gary
-- 
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3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] Dueling CQ During Mixed Mode 10 Meter Contest

2012-12-25 Thread Jeff Stai
hi Dave - That was me, not Ted. No worries. Sometimes it hard to sort out.

The full QSK idea sounds worth trying once you get it all working. Since
most of my contesting is RTTY I hadn't considered that.

The interlaced CW and phone transmit sounds crazy but could work - as long
as it switches cleanly (as you noted). You could model it to hear how it
sounds by rigging a CW signal to selectively mute a received phone signal.
I don't have a clear idea on how to do that (as I type) but I bet someone
here does. I do think it would elicit a lot of hey, your transmit audio is
all chopped up reports, but in a slow band that's OK ;)

have fun and good luck! - jeff wk6i

On Mon, Dec 24, 2012 at 11:38 PM, KGØUS kg...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 Hi Ted,

 But given that you have to listen between CQs, that's a long time between
 CQs in each mode:

 CW-listen-phone-listen-CW-listen-phone...

 I think you'd be better off just calling a tighter cycle in one mode at a
 time, or using true SO2R with a second radio/antenna (if possible). Just my
 opinion.

 I would mainly use the dueling CQ on mixed mode during the 10 meter contest
 when it would be very slow in an attempt to generate some activity.
 Also, I would like to transmit the wav file first, then immediately
 transmit
 the CW using full QSK.  Using full QSK, I would hopefully be able to hear a
 phone station coming back to me in between my CW dots and dashes.  If I
 heard a phone station, I would simply hit the ESC key and work them.  I
 would like a 1.5 second to 2 second pause after the CW transmission before
 continuing with the phone wav file transmission.

 This might be totally crazy, and it may cause undesirable interference
 products, but I would like it if I could transmit both the wav CQ on phone
 and the CW CQ pseudo simultaneously.  I know that the phone operators
 listening to my CQ would hear the CW gaps but I think that it would still
 be
 intelligible.  If this where possible then there would only be one gap for
 listening.

 Lastly,  I did setup my K3 with phone on the main receiver and CW on the
 2nd
 receiver.  I was hoping to search up and down the CW portion of the band in
 the gaps between phone wav CQs.  However Writelog would not transmit in CW
 after I found someone to work in the CW portion of the band.  I switched
 focus to the second call entry window and pressed F4 (my callsign) and
 nothing happened.

 73,
 Dave KG0US





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 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Dueling-CQ-During-Mixed-Mode-10-Meter-Contest-tp7567591p7567670.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue, and a new question

2012-12-25 Thread Richard Fjeld
Good advice!  (And a new question)

I haven't followed this too closely until I saw Don mention blade-type 
automotive fuses. (Not to be confused with the heavier blade-type fuses.)

We use a blade-type automotive fuse at our repeater site.  I found the fuse 
holder melted one day.  The fuse blade had slipped to one side of the internal 
terminal in the molded fuse holder.  This caused a resistance connection. It is 
nearly impossible to tell when the fuse blades are properly inserted into the 
two terminals.

As the current increased across the resistance the voltage drop increased.  The 
Voltage times the current, produced enough wattage to melt the fuse holder, 
nearly creating a fire.  Thankfully, it burned open.

For Ian's benefit, I made some observations of my K3 for comparison, using my 
homebrew power distribution lash-up, and the wire used.  (Emphasis on the 
latter)  My Astron 35M is a bit light on voltage.  Two DVMs show 13.66, and 
13.72 Volts at the power supply.  The K3 shows 13.6 V at the radio during key 
up.  With key down, the K3 shows 11.9 V, and  15.4+ Amps.  The Astron ammeter 
indicates at least 14 Amps.  (I don't see the volt meter vary on the Astron) 

***Considering that I have a P3 attached,  Does that amperage track with other 
users?***

(Using simple math, the K3 seems to be very efficient on CW.)

So, in summary, with my PS voltage and wiring lash-up, I am losing 1.7 Volts on 
key down. It indicates a full 100 Watts at the K3, at my in-line power meter to 
the dummy load, and also into a service monitor.  All tests were done on 75 
meters.

Rich, n0ce

P.S.  Don mentioned low voltage, high current applications.  Accidents can also 
weld firmly together in those situations. Planning good fuse placement is 
important.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Don Wilhelm 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 6:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue


  Despite the potential for voltage drop, I would not forget the fuse at 
  the power supply end of the wire unless you are certain the power source 
  has adequate overcurrent protection built in.  The blade type fuses with 
  tight fitting sockets will cause very little voltage drop.  If the 
  connection is not in the milliohm range, connection tightness is to blame.

  That fuse is not intended to protect the equipment connected, but is 
  instead to protect the wire from a short circuit.
  Many power supplies do have adequate overcurrent protection - however ---

  I hear of instances where this was not in place when the power source is 
  a battery.  In the event of a short at the end of the power cable (or 
  internal to the cable), a LOT of energy can be available which will have 
  current sufficient to melt copper conductors of any size and spew molten 
  metal all over the place - a personnel and a fire hazard.

  Low voltage high current power sources can be just as maiming as high 
  voltage supplies.  Please be safe!

  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.  Keep all hams healthy and free of 
  injury in the coming New Year.

  73,
  Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Gary wrote:

 A typical old style tuner will lose you around 5 watts or more.

Perhaps, but there's no reason why a modern tuner is any more efficient.
Any badly designed or improperly operated matching network (a.k.a tuner) can
be very inefficient. 

73, Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-25 Thread Jim Brown

On 12/24/2012 10:58 AM, Keith-K5ENS wrote:

The K3 can be polled for this data.  Many loggers are doing it


Yes, but that is via the RS232 port, not the Aux Bus.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-25 Thread Jim Brown
Another point.  Elecraft designed the KAT500 so that can be used with 
almost any rig and almost any good power amp.  Part of that design is 
determining the operating frequency by sensing RF and counting the 
frequency.  Why is this important?  Because it increases (potentially by 
a lot) the number of customers, which in turn builds sales volume, which 
in turn keeps the price down.  Thank you, Eric, for another very smart 
marketing move.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3, A calibration question

2012-12-25 Thread Richard Fjeld
How much voltage adjustment change can be made to a power supply without the 
need to re-calibrate a K3?  

(I did not see this answered in the manual) 

Rich, n0ce
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[Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

2012-12-25 Thread Alan Price

I don't know if anyone has posted this.  I just loaded HRD and voila, it works 
with my KX3. 73AlanW1HYV   
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

2012-12-25 Thread hawley, charles j jr
Version 6?

Chuck, KE9UW
Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on 
behalf of Alan Price [w1...@arrl.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 4:08 PM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

I don't know if anyone has posted this.  I just loaded HRD and voila, it works 
with my KX3. 73AlanW1HYV
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

2012-12-25 Thread Dave Lindsley
It works...but only if you change the KX3 to use 4800 baud, or use K3.  I
also have big issues with the CAT buttons / Commands not being even close
to working.  If I hit NR on the screen...my meters toggle on the KX3..not
nr on/off.

On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 5:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr c-haw...@illinois.edu
 wrote:

 Version 6?

 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224

 
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 on behalf of Alan Price [w1...@arrl.net]
 Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 4:08 PM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

 I don't know if anyone has posted this.  I just loaded HRD and voila, it
 works with my KX3. 73AlanW1HYV
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

2012-12-25 Thread Mike Reublin
Compare the command sets for the K3 and KX3, I think you'll find some 
differences.

74,
Mike NF4L

On Dec 25, 2012, at 5:36 PM, Dave Lindsley dave.linds...@gmail.com wrote:

 It works...but only if you change the KX3 to use 4800 baud, or use K3.  I
 also have big issues with the CAT buttons / Commands not being even close
 to working.  If I hit NR on the screen...my meters toggle on the KX3..not
 nr on/off.
 
 On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 5:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr c-haw...@illinois.edu
 wrote:
 
 Version 6?
 
 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224
 
 
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 on behalf of Alan Price [w1...@arrl.net]
 Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 4:08 PM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!
 
 I don't know if anyone has posted this.  I just loaded HRD and voila, it
 works with my KX3. 73AlanW1HYV
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!

2012-12-25 Thread Rick Bates
But for the moment in v6 one should use the k3 option. 

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable

On Dec 25, 2012, at 3:55 PM, Mike Reublin n...@nf4l.com wrote:

 Compare the command sets for the K3 and KX3, I think you'll find some 
 differences.
 
 74,
 Mike NF4L
 
 On Dec 25, 2012, at 5:36 PM, Dave Lindsley dave.linds...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 It works...but only if you change the KX3 to use 4800 baud, or use K3.  I
 also have big issues with the CAT buttons / Commands not being even close
 to working.  If I hit NR on the screen...my meters toggle on the KX3..not
 nr on/off.
 
 On Tue, Dec 25, 2012 at 5:14 PM, hawley, charles j jr c-haw...@illinois.edu
 wrote:
 
 Version 6?
 
 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224
 
 
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 on behalf of Alan Price [w1...@arrl.net]
 Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 4:08 PM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] Ham Radio Deluxe works great with my KX3!
 
 I don't know if anyone has posted this.  I just loaded HRD and voila, it
 works with my KX3. 73AlanW1HYV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, A calibration question

2012-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rich,

As long as the voltage is within the spec limits the answer is that no 
additional calibration should be required.

\
73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/25/2012 4:00 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

How much voltage adjustment change can be made to a power supply without the 
need to re-calibrate a K3?

(I did not see this answered in the manual)

Rich, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] K3, A calibration question

2012-12-25 Thread Fred Townsend
Rich I'm not sure which calibration you are referring too but as long as you
stay with the specified input voltage range, all calibration will not
change.
73, Fred AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Fjeld
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 1:00 PM
To: elecraft posting
Subject: [Elecraft] K3, A calibration question

How much voltage adjustment change can be made to a power supply without the
need to re-calibrate a K3?  

(I did not see this answered in the manual) 

Rich, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-25 Thread Keith-K5ENS
We're talking adding features for the K line. Not removing any.

Keith, XE3/K5ENS







Another point.  Elecraft designed the KAT500 so that can be used with 
almost any rig and almost any good power amp.  Part of that design is 
determining the operating frequency by sensing RF and counting the 
frequency.  Why is this important?  Because it increases (potentially by 
a lot) the number of customers, which in turn builds sales volume, which 
in turn keeps the price down.  Thank you, Eric, for another very smart 
marketing move. 

73, Jim K9YC 
__ 



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT500-and-OT-Is-a-tuner-using-VNA-feasible-tp7567559p7567688.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-25 Thread Jim Brown

On 12/25/2012 7:06 PM, Keith-K5ENS wrote:

We're talking adding features for the K line. Not removing any.


You're missing something. The limitation is the hardware design of the 
K3, and there's nothing the KAT designer could have done about that (or 
could do now).  We are stuck with that.  IMO, the KAT500 implementation 
is awfully close to ideal based on those limitations.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

2012-12-25 Thread John Shaw
 Guys I tried to make my post as non combative as possible and I said I am
no EE so I certainly am not capable of arguing technical pros-cons of what
can or can't be done.  Not wanting to throw gasoline on this but every idea
I put forward I have to confess was not entirely my own but observations of
how another high power amplifier/tuner on the market works and yes it can
fall back to using a sniff of RF to maintain diverse compatibility if
frequency data cannot be provided.

My questions were purely inquisitive and didn't want to upset anyone
sensitivities. Clearly the K line equipment is the best on the market and
cannot be improved. ;-)

Merry Christmas  Happy New Year, see you in the pileups 2013.

73 John ZL1BYZ.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Wednesday, 26 December 2012 17:02
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 a good tuner or great tuner

On 12/25/2012 7:06 PM, Keith-K5ENS wrote:
 We're talking adding features for the K line. Not removing any.

You're missing something. The limitation is the hardware design of the K3,
and there's nothing the KAT designer could have done about that (or could do
now).  We are stuck with that.  IMO, the KAT500 implementation is awfully
close to ideal based on those limitations.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, A calibration question

2012-12-25 Thread Richard Fjeld
(Sorry Don, the first one got sent to you instead of the user group)

Thanks Don, and Fred AE6QL,

Your answers suggest it has it's own regulation built in, which I didn't want 
to assume.   So, I should be able to ignore my key down voltage for this 
question.  (I do intend to beef up my wire gauge.) 

My K3 shows 15.4 amps at key down in CW at 100 watts with a P3 attached.  A 
dummy load was used.

How does that compare with your K3's, please?   

Rich, n0ce
  - Original Message - 
  From: Don Wilhelm 
  To: Richard Fjeld 
  Cc: elecraft posting 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 7:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3, A calibration question


  Rich,

  As long as the voltage is within the spec limits the answer is that no 
  additional calibration should be required.
  \
  73,
  Don W3FPR

  On 12/25/2012 4:00 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
   How much voltage adjustment change can be made to a power supply without 
the need to re-calibrate a K3?
  
   (I did not see this answered in the manual)
  
   Rich, n0ce
  
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