Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Jim Brown]

On 3/8/2013 10:30 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The problem is that very large RF voltage are developed at the end of such a
wire - well beyond what any compact or semi-compact tuner that doesn't use
big air variable caps can handle. So we compromise.


Exactly. One specification (efficiency or SWR) alone does no define 
success. The TX must put power into it, and loads close to a half wave 
are very difficult for a tuner to match. Like I said -- avoid antennas 
within 10% or so of a half wave.  Beyond that, get as close to a quarter 
wave with a decent counterpoise and call CQ.


This summer, W6GJB and I put a quarter wave whip on a tripod on a 
mountataintop threw a quarter wave of wire into some scrub trees, and 
connected it to his KX3.  In about 10 minutes on 15M, we had worked AS, 
SA, and the Carribbean,. And if there had been skip to EU and VK, we 
would have worked them too.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Jack Brindle]

No diodes, no extra connections. Just use he KRC2 utility to change the band 
map so that a single output is dedicated to the tribander, and others to the 
band pass filter. I do this in my own system - I have one output that selects 
my A3, leaving other outputs for other purposes. It is very useful to use the 
XVT outputs for this, or others (say 60m) that might not be used normally in 
your station.

Download the KRC2 Configuration Utility and play with it. You will get a good 
idea as to what all you can do, and may discover something really useful!

Jack B, W6FB


On Mar 8, 2013, at 4:35 PM, "Cady, Fred"  wrote:

> Ah yeah.  I forgot that! Thanks.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
> Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 5:32 PM
> To: Cady, Fred
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different
> 
> Fred,
> 
> Your first post indicated that you could drive one from the high side
> and the other from the low side.  If that is the case, then diodes are
> not required.  If both must be driven from either the High side or the
> Low side, then yes, diodes would be required.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/8/2013 6:47 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
>> Thanks Don,
>> I guess not normally but I need to drive two separate devices -- the 
>> ant switch with the tribander and a 6 band bandpass filter. 10-15-20 
>> can be wired together to drive the ant switch but need to be separate 
>> for the bandpass filter.
>> Cheers,
>> Fred
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Actually making an end-fed wire 1/2 wavelength long is ideal, from an
antenna efficiency standpoint, because such an antenna does not need a good
ground return (it needs something to keep the rig from floating up to a high
RF potential that causes the tuning to shift as one touches the rig or moves
wires, but that has little effect on the efficiency of the antenna itself). 

The problem is that very large RF voltage are developed at the end of such a
wire - well beyond what any compact or semi-compact tuner that doesn't use
big air variable caps can handle. So we compromise. 

It's tough to specify an impedance range for a tuner. I'm not surprised it's
not obvious in the manuals. Basically, throw up what you can and see if it
works. Most wires will work. And, if needed, you can consider adjusting the
length a bit if it doesn't . 

73 Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lynn W. Taylor,
WB6UUT
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 8:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

Of course -- and experimenting is half the fun.  I expect to go through a
lot of wire playing.

I'm pretty good with the theory -- and as everyone has said, it makes sense
to avoid feeding the end of a half-wave wire.

I haven't yet found the impedance range for the tuner in the manuals.  
I'm still reading.

I also moved not too long ago, and a lot of things (like my antenna
book) are in a box somewhere.  I'm still searching.  I think my Par
EF-20 is in one of those boxes, as is a nice chunk of coax with a BNC on one
end, and a PL-259 on the other.  I did find my straight key, but I haven't
been on CW this millenium.

... and I've got 100' of Wireman #534 due to arrive tomorrow.  I can always
buy more.

-- Lynn


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Jim Brown]

On 3/8/2013 8:51 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

I haven't yet found the impedance range for the tuner in the manuals.


Elecraft has been building antenna tuners for a decade or so, their 
target has always been backpacking, and they are great tuners. As long 
as you don't get within about 10% of a half wavelength, it will load 
just fine. If you don't have a tuner, you'll want to get within 5-10% of 
a quarter wave.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Of course -- and experimenting is half the fun.  I expect to go through 
a lot of wire playing.


I'm pretty good with the theory -- and as everyone has said, it makes 
sense to avoid feeding the end of a half-wave wire.


I haven't yet found the impedance range for the tuner in the manuals.  
I'm still reading.


I also moved not too long ago, and a lot of things (like my antenna 
book) are in a box somewhere.  I'm still searching.  I think my Par 
EF-20 is in one of those boxes, as is a nice chunk of coax with a BNC on 
one end, and a PL-259 on the other.  I did find my straight key, but I 
haven't been on CW this millenium.


... and I've got 100' of Wireman #534 due to arrive tomorrow.  I can 
always buy more.


-- Lynn

On 3/8/2013 8:29 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
The message here is the the KX3 is a radio, and the antennas that work 
well with it are the same that work with any radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Power supply for KAT100-1

[Don Wilhelm]

Bruce,

What are you using to power your K2?  That same power supply can most 
likely power the KAT100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 9:39 PM, K1FFX wrote:

My KAT100-1 kit will be showing up some time next week and I'm looking into a
power source for it.  It turns out I have just taken offline a Sony LCD
display that
I've used for several years.   The display is powered by a external AC
adaptor rated
at 12V and 2A.  The specs are more than adequate for powering the KAT100-1.
However, the adaptor is marked "for use with information technology
equipment."
So, I'm not sure what it's warning me about.  I'd appreciate any advice as
to
whether this would be an appropriate power supply for the KAT100-1.




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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Jim Brown]

On 3/8/2013 7:52 PM, Mike WA8BXN wrote:

The answer may depend a lot on what bands you want to operate on.


It also depends on where you will go to operate and how you will get 
there. My neighbor Glen, W6GJB, travels every month or so on business, 
and likes to operate from his hotel room. He and I have also driven t to 
mountain tops, and some folks like to hike and climb.


Glen has accumulated a nice collection of telescoping rods of varying 
extended length and collapsed length, and several ways to hold them in 
place -- things like tripods, clamps, etc. He also has several lengths 
of small diameter wire that he can spool and unspool to be radials, a 
counterpoise, or a long wire out the window or into a tree, and he's 
developed some neat ways to quickly rig and attach them. One of his 
objectives is to be able to carry it onto an airplane, a second is to 
fit it in checked luggage.


 I think all of his ideas are good ones, and NONE of them involve 
loading coils.  Loading coils are lossy, and the last thing we need when 
running QRP is loss. Glen first objective is to make his radiator a 
quarter wave, and it's pretty practical to do that with these 
collapsible wands for 20-10M. 30M and 40M are tougher, but possible.  
There's a neat black fibreglass telescoping wand (distributed by a 
German ham) that extends to 33 ft long. Tape the right length of #22 
wire to it and you've got a full size 30M or 40M vertical!  MFJ makes 
some wands and tripods.  You have to poke around to find the other stuff.


The message here is the the KX3 is a radio, and the antennas that work 
well with it are the same that work with any radio. The old standby 
fundamental types of antennas are still the winners - long wires, 
verticals, some sort of counterpoise. Avoid driven elements close to a 
half wave length because their high Z makes them hard to load.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Fred Jensen]

Not sure if the ATU will match an EFHW, impedance is very high.  But a 
6:1 transformer may get it into matchable range for you.


In CA, "ham radio" operation is exempted from the cell phone law [that 
doesn't make fooling with the radio any less dangerous :-)], don't know 
about digital modes ... doesn't sound safe to me.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

On 3/8/2013 7:51 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

I was thinking of wire antennas to get started.

I chose the tuner over a solution like the Buddipole with that in mind.

I'd put the KX3 in the car, but I like digital modes, but I don't want
to see if the CHP would consider PSK-31 to be "texting."

On 3/8/2013 7:33 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

Many of the SOTA crowd use end-fed half-wave wires ... no ground or
counterpoise required.  Of course, they are generally doing this on
mountain tops which helps, but they are universally QRP or close to it.



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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Mike WA8BXN]

 
Hi Lynn, 
 
The answer may depend a lot on what bands you want to operate on. I think
the KX3 tuner is rather wide range. You might look over the online manuals
for the other rigs for suggested antenna lengths. I think I have seen 51
feet can be a good length. Avoid a half wave on the band of interest. And
you will need some ground system, radial wire(s) or a car body often being
used. 
 
73 - Mike WA8BXN 
 
 
 
---Original Message--- 
 
From: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
Date: 3/8/2013 10:16:18 PM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question 
 
My new KX3 is due to arrive on Monday -- with the KXAT3 tuner. 
 
I saw some discussion of wire lengths that worked well with the tuner, 
and of course, now I can't find it. 
 
I plan on mostly portable operation -- no place where I live for a nice 
antenna (and probably hard to get the OK from management). 
 
Anyone have any practical experience to share? 
 
73 -- Lynn, WB6UUT 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

I was thinking of wire antennas to get started.

I chose the tuner over a solution like the Buddipole with that in mind.

I'd put the KX3 in the car, but I like digital modes, but I don't want 
to see if the CHP would consider PSK-31 to be "texting."


On 3/8/2013 7:33 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Many of the SOTA crowd use end-fed half-wave wires ... no ground or 
counterpoise required.  Of course, they are generally doing this on 
mountain tops which helps, but they are universally QRP or close to it.


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Paul Marriott]

I have an MP-1 Super Antenna and an Par Endfed 10-20-40 which I use with my new 
KX3.  

I use the MP-1 from my condo balcony, usually at 10-12w, but my favorite is the 
Par Endfed in the field at 5w.  I have a 32ft fiberglass push up pole which I 
attach to whatever I can find with bungy cords.  I feed the endfed antenna near 
the top and then run it out to a convenient attachment.  There is a youtube 
video which shows a simple way to do this.  I have even operated from the condo 
roof very successfully.  Deployment takes about 10-15 minutes and it provides 
excellent ears for the KX3

Paul
AF5BV

On Mar 8, 2013, at 9:16 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

> My new KX3 is due to arrive on Monday -- with the KXAT3 tuner.
> 
> I saw some discussion of wire lengths that worked well with the tuner, and of 
> course, now I can't find it.
> 
> I plan on mostly portable operation -- no place where I live for a nice 
> antenna (and probably hard to get the OK from management).
> 
> Anyone have any practical experience to share?
> 
> 73 -- Lynn, WB6UUT
> 
> P.S. Hi Lyle
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Fred Jensen]

Buddipole is a good antenna but somewhat heavy and not quick to set up 
and tune.  With the ATU, you can generally set it to a "recipe" and let 
the tuner take care of the rest.  I found verticals worked best, all the 
horizontal configurations [arms up, out, up and down, V, whatever] are 
basically an OCF loaded dipole.  I had and used one for a number of 
years, pretty satisfied.


I sold my BP and bought an AlexLoop.  Very much lighter and smaller, 
sets up much much faster, much easier to QSY, and works as well or maybe 
a little better than the BP.  A little pricey as is the BP, you can HB 
the loop pretty easily.


Many of the SOTA crowd use end-fed half-wave wires ... no ground or 
counterpoise required.  Of course, they are generally doing this on 
mountain tops which helps, but they are universally QRP or close to it.


I've used a 27' end-fed wire with my K2 and KX1.  The ATU loads it fine 
on 30 thru 10, it isn't real effective on 20 and below as you might 
imagine from the short length.


Antennas are the last bastion of ham experimentation, try things out 
once you're making RF from the KX3.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

On 3/8/2013 7:16 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

My new KX3 is due to arrive on Monday -- with the KXAT3 tuner.

I saw some discussion of wire lengths that worked well with the tuner,
and of course, now I can't find it.

I plan on mostly portable operation -- no place where I live for a nice
antenna (and probably hard to get the OK from management).

Anyone have any practical experience to share?

73 -- Lynn, WB6UUT

P.S. Hi Lyle
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Power supply for KAT100-1

[Mike WA8BXN]

Hi Bruce, 
 
It might suggest that the power supply puts out a lot of RF noise. This
would have little impact on IT equipment, but might make it undesirable to
use near a radio. I would give it a try and see how it works. But before
doing so, I would get out a volt meter and make sure that the output is 12 V
without anything else connected to it. If the voltage is OK, then it might
work fine for your application. 
 
73 - Mike WA8BXN 
 
 
 
 
 
---Original Message--- 
 
From: K1FFX 
Date: 3/8/2013 9:39:11 PM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] Power supply for KAT100-1 
 
My KAT100-1 kit will be showing up some time next week and I'm looking into
a 
power source for it. It turns out I have just taken offline a Sony LCD 
display that 
I've used for several years. The display is powered by a external AC 
adaptor rated 
at 12V and 2A. The specs are more than adequate for powering the KAT100-1. 
However, the adaptor is marked "for use with information technology 
equipment." 
So, I'm not sure what it's warning me about. I'd appreciate any advice as 
to 
whether this would be an appropriate power supply for the KAT100-1. 
 
Thanks - 
 
Bruce K1FFX 
 
 
 
 
- 
Bruce Rosen 
K1FFX 
K2/100 6982 KSB2 
 
-- 
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[Elecraft] [KX3] Portable Antenna question

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

My new KX3 is due to arrive on Monday -- with the KXAT3 tuner.

I saw some discussion of wire lengths that worked well with the tuner, 
and of course, now I can't find it.


I plan on mostly portable operation -- no place where I live for a nice 
antenna (and probably hard to get the OK from management).


Anyone have any practical experience to share?

73 -- Lynn, WB6UUT

P.S. Hi Lyle
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[Elecraft] [K2] Power supply for KAT100-1

[K1FFX]

My KAT100-1 kit will be showing up some time next week and I'm looking into a
power source for it.  It turns out I have just taken offline a Sony LCD
display that
I've used for several years.   The display is powered by a external AC
adaptor rated
at 12V and 2A.  The specs are more than adequate for powering the KAT100-1.
However, the adaptor is marked "for use with information technology
equipment."
So, I'm not sure what it's warning me about.  I'd appreciate any advice as
to
whether this would be an appropriate power supply for the KAT100-1.

Thanks -

Bruce K1FFX




-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982 KSB2

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Power-supply-for-KAT100-1-tp7571004.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Tech Writer Part-Time Position at Elecraft

[Elecraft]

Elecraft is looking for a part time senior tech writer. We'd prefer  
someone who is already very familiar with our product line as well as  
RF concepts and amateur radio in general. The candidate must have a  
high level of expertise with Microsoft Word and Excel and be able to  
organize and distribute very large documents. Photography and  
illustration skills are also required in order to document assembly  
procedures.


Projects will include updating and maintenance of existing documents,  
as well as creation of manuals for future products. In many cases the  
writer will be building and testing products as part of the  
documentation process, in conjunction with our engineering staff, so  
some tools and test gear will be required.


This is a long-term part-time position with the potential to be full  
time in the future, with a flexible work schedule. The candidate need  
not relocate; many members of our engineering staff work from home.


Please submit a resume and several writing samples to:
tech...@elecraft.com

73,
Eric and Wayne
elecraft.com


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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Cady, Fred]

Ah yeah.  I forgot that! Thanks.


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 5:32 PM
To: Cady, Fred
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

Fred,

Your first post indicated that you could drive one from the high side
and the other from the low side.  If that is the case, then diodes are
not required.  If both must be driven from either the High side or the
Low side, then yes, diodes would be required.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 6:47 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
> Thanks Don,
> I guess not normally but I need to drive two separate devices -- the 
> ant switch with the tribander and a 6 band bandpass filter. 10-15-20 
> can be wired together to drive the ant switch but need to be separate 
> for the bandpass filter.
> Cheers,
> Fred
>

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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Don Wilhelm]

Fred,

Your first post indicated that you could drive one from the high side 
and the other from the low side.  If that is the case, then diodes are 
not required.  If both must be driven from either the High side or the 
Low side, then yes, diodes would be required.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 6:47 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

Thanks Don,
I guess not normally but I need to drive two separate devices -- the ant
switch with the tribander and a 6 band bandpass filter. 10-15-20 can be
wired together to drive the ant switch but need to be separate for the
bandpass filter.
Cheers,
Fred



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500: Miracle on 160m

[Rick Bates]

I had a similar Q.  While I do NOT recommend this, the KAT500 can only bring 
the 100 meter dipole (EDZ on 80M) to 4.57:1 so I used the internal K3 tuner to 
bring it down further (1:1) and gave or a shot on 160M. 

At only 35-50' above dirt, it's a cloud heater but day-yam if they didn't hear 
me on CW.  No joy on SSB later last night but I'm happy. 

And that's how I made my first ever contact on top band.  Ugly describes it.  
Bonus: no release of the magic smoke from the abuse of the KAT500 input. (ALL 
of the downstream meters went nuts from the rotten SWR.)

I now have (confirmed with the real time log)  160-10 CW; 80-10 (minus 30) on 
phone; 30, 20, 17 on RTTY for 21 contacts (2 dupes, one wasn't logged, another 
was dodgy).  All this in casual DX mode (time available).   If I only had a 
real antenna and Africa were this easy...  
;-)

Elecraft: that's American speak for making contacts. 

I think it made a huge difference that both ends are using K3's.  The only 
problems I've heard from them this time was occasional poor audio (wrong TX 
filter making pinched audio, Luis had a mike issue last night with lots of 
random distortion).  What a great effort by the team!

Rick wa6nhc

Tiny iPhone 5 keypad, typos are inevitable

On Mar 8, 2013, at 1:57 PM, eric norris  wrote:

> Like many others I have been chasing TX5K around the bands.  I have an HF-2V 
> vertical for 40/80/160 (with 160 resonator), though it is far too short at 
> 31' to be effective on 160m. A couple of years ago I upgraded the radial 
> system from 6 to 66 radials, and it works pretty well on 40m.  I have trouble 
> making contacts even a couple hundred miles out on 160m.
> 
> One night while TX5K was working endless Europeans on 80m, I tuned on to 
> TX5K's 160m QRG and found silence.  I started doing something else in the 
> shack, then I heard QRL? Then CQ CQ de TX5K UP 3.  No one was there!  I 
> frantically put the K3 into split mode (so easy), and started to call with 
> 100 watts, forgetting that the antenna was tuned 20 KHz higher up for digital 
> work.  The KAT500 started tuning, and I frantically hit TUNE on the K3 and 
> the KAT500 made a margarita.  He started working other stations and my heart 
> sank because I knew the only way he would hear my pipsqueak ERP signal would 
> be with no one else there.  With the pileup growing I kept calling, and by 
> SOME MIRACLE he came back to me!  Amazing!  It gave me quite a giggle to see 
> the green square on 160 in DXA while trying to get him on 40 and 80 the next 
> few nights.  You just never know!
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM  
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Cady, Fred]

Thanks Don, 
I guess not normally but I need to drive two separate devices -- the ant
switch with the tribander and a 6 band bandpass filter. 10-15-20 can be
wired together to drive the ant switch but need to be separate for the
bandpass filter.
Cheers,
Fred


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 2:06 PM
To: Cady, Fred
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

Fred,

With the KRC2, no diodes are needed, just connect them together.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 3:47 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
> Thanks Don. With diodes that will work great.
> 73
> Fred
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
> Sent: Fri 3/8/2013 11:08 AM
> To: Cady, Fred
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different
>   
> Fred,
>
> You can wire "OR" either the high side or the low side.
> If you are running the tribander on the low side, just connect the 10,

> 15, and 20 outputs together, and drive the bandpass filter from the 
> separated low side outputs.  Swap 'high' and 'low' if required.
>
>

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[Elecraft] KAT500: Miracle on 160m

[eric norris]

Like many others I have been chasing TX5K around the bands.  I have an HF-2V 
vertical for 40/80/160 (with 160 resonator), though it is far too short at 31' 
to be effective on 160m. A couple of years ago I upgraded the radial system 
from 6 to 66 radials, and it works pretty well on 40m.  I have trouble making 
contacts even a couple hundred miles out on 160m.

One night while TX5K was working endless Europeans on 80m, I tuned on to TX5K's 
160m QRG and found silence.  I started doing something else in the shack, then 
I heard QRL? Then CQ CQ de TX5K UP 3.  No one was there!  I frantically put the 
K3 into split mode (so easy), and started to call with 100 watts, forgetting 
that the antenna was tuned 20 KHz higher up for digital work.  The KAT500 
started tuning, and I frantically hit TUNE on the K3 and the KAT500 made a 
margarita.  He started working other stations and my heart sank because I knew 
the only way he would hear my pipsqueak ERP signal would be with no one else 
there.  With the pileup growing I kept calling, and by SOME MIRACLE he came 
back to me!  Amazing!  It gave me quite a giggle to see the green square on 160 
in DXA while trying to get him on 40 and 80 the next few nights.  You just 
never know!

73 Eric WD6DBM  
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[Elecraft] Fixed Point DSP functions

[kevinr]

Good Afternoon,
   For those of you who like to play with computer code here are some 
DSP routines converted to run on fixed point micros.  It is interesting 
to note the various speed up techniques used in the conversion process.  
It is also fun to exercise my rusted math skills :) 
http://people.ece.cornell.edu/land/courses/ece4760/Math/avrDSP.htm

Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] What monitor to use?

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> For a photo, the aspect ratio has to be correct or the photo looks
> "stretched."  For a panadapter or other graph-like image it doesn't
> matter.

It would make a big difference with text (text terminal) displaying
a 1024 x 768 image on a 1366 x 768 raster.  The characters will be
stretched out - look wide and flat - and possibly difficult to read.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 12:47 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:

1024 x 768 seems to be the lowest common denominator - almost all
monitors support that resolution.  I normally leave my P3 SVGA set for
1024 x 768 just because the text is bigger and it makes the lines fatter
and easier to see.

For a photo, the aspect ratio has to be correct or the photo looks
"stretched."  For a panadapter or other graph-like image it doesn't matter.

Alan N1AL


On 3/8/2013 5:18 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Thanks, Mike.  Unfortunately, that means that the inexpensive 1366 x
768 monitors will not be a very good fit because of the differences
in aspect ratio vs. the two lower resolutions that would "fit."

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 6:12 AM, Mike K2MK wrote:

Hi Joe,

I opened the menu option on my P3 and here are the available
resolutions:

1024 x 768
1280 x 1024
1440 x 900
1920 x 1080
1920 x 1080 alt

73,
Mike K2MK


Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote

What native resolutions does the P3SVGA support - just the four listed
on the web page?  I see quite a few inexpensive, small (15 to 19")
monitors at 1366 x 768 and 1600 x 900 - obviously derived from the new
laptop panels - these days.  The lowest three resolutions listed are
becoming increasingly rare in new monitors.

73,
 ... Joe, W4TV






--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/What-monitor-to-use-tp7570934p7570969.html


Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Don Wilhelm]

Fred,

With the KRC2, no diodes are needed, just connect them together.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 3:47 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

Thanks Don. With diodes that will work great.
73
Fred


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Fri 3/8/2013 11:08 AM
To: Cady, Fred
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different
  
Fred,


You can wire "OR" either the high side or the low side.
If you are running the tribander on the low side, just connect the 10,
15, and 20 outputs together, and drive the bandpass filter from the
separated low side outputs.  Swap 'high' and 'low' if required.




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Re: [Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

[Alan Bloom]

See the P3 Owner's Manual section "How to Set Up and Interpret the P3 
Display" the paragraph that starts, "You would expect the S meter on the 
K3 and the signal on the P3 display to indicate the same level..."


Basically, the P3 has an effective receive bandwidth narrower than the 
K3.  So for a narrow-band signal like CW they should read the same, but 
for a spread-out signal like SSB, each frequency point of the P3 only 
contains a fraction of the total signal so it appears to read lower.


Alan N1AL


On 3/8/2013 11:18 AM, Paul VanOveren wrote:

Just listening to 9a2na on 15 metersS-9 on the K3 S meter and about
S5-S6 on the P3 and also on the larger monitor, SVGA...How do I get them to
match each other?, or at least be somewhat similar strength.?

NF8J

Paul VanOveren
5911 Snow Av
Alto, Mi 49302
(616) 868-7149
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Cady, Fred]

Thanks Don. With diodes that will work great.
73
Fred


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Fri 3/8/2013 11:08 AM
To: Cady, Fred
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different
 
Fred,

You can wire "OR" either the high side or the low side.
If you are running the tribander on the low side, just connect the 10, 
15, and 20 outputs together, and drive the bandpass filter from the 
separated low side outputs.  Swap 'high' and 'low' if required.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 12:56 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
> Thanks Jack. I figured that was the case. What I want(ed) to do is drive
> the 6-pack x-bar switch which has a tribander on it so 10-15-20 will be
> mapped to the same output PLUS drive a 6-band bandpass filter which
> needs to have separate outputs for 10-15-20. Any ideas?
> Cheers,
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net cancelled

[Phil Shepard]

Hi Ed,

I can load my tri-band quad on 17m or 12m with the K3's ATU, but the signal has 
to go up over 100' of RG-213 to get to the antenna (with all of that loss).  I 
can also tune my 130' CFZ on any band through a heavy duty HB matchbox, but I  
can't control where the lobes are on the higher bands.  Sometimes the quad is 
stronger on 17m and sometimes the CFZ is stronger.  Neither is really optimum. 
Maybe I'll try it some contest weekend.

73,
Phil, NS7P


On Mar 4, 2013, at 12:10 AM, Edward R Cole  wrote:

> Phil,
> 
> I find I can load my triband yagi on 17m by using an antenna tuner in the 
> shack (Drake MN-2000).  Have you tried this?  The antenna will not be optimum 
> but the transmitter is OK with the load.
> 
> 73, ED - KL7UW
> 
> From: Phil Shepard 
> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net cancelled
> Message-ID: <44941ed0-13d5-4586-9025-8e7e0c68b...@riousa.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Hi Rick,
> 
> Probably because my station isn't as capable on 17M.   Whereas on 20M I have 
> a rotatable quad at 75', on 17M I only have a random wire.  I fear that will 
> make it hard for some to hear me.  Hope to improve things this summer.
> 
> 73,
> Phil, NS7P
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

[Bill Clarke]

My P3 and K3 track very well - no problems noted with S-meter readings.

I don't use the P3 for much of anything except a display of activity 50 
kcs up and down the band - in the VFO mode so that I can up or down 
making the interesting spike move to the center of the scope.


Expensive toy, but I wouldn't be without it now.

Bill W2BLC
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[Elecraft] WTB: KX3

[Phil LaMarche]

I have found and purchased one.  Many thanks!

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

 

727-944-3226

727-510-5038 Cell 

   www.w9dvm.com

  WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM

 

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

KAT500  #50

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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[Elecraft] [W2] Interfacing W2 to Moxa Serial Device Server

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

If anyone on the reflector has successfully interfaced their W2 to a 
Moxa serial device server, please contact me off list. I am helping an 
OM out with his remote station and I can't get this to work like the 
other serial devices.


73,
Mitch DJ0QN

--
Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378

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Re: [Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

[d...@lightstream.net]

Paul,

Assuming that you've calibrated the P3 per the instructions in the user
manual, try turning off 'Averaging' on the P3. The peaks of the signals
should then be much closer to what the K3 S meter reports.

73, Dale  WA8SRA

> Just listening to 9a2na on 15 metersS-9 on the K3 S meter and about
> S5-S6 on the P3 and also on the larger monitor, SVGA...How do I get them
> to
> match each other?, or at least be somewhat similar strength.?
>
> NF8J
>
> Paul VanOveren
> 5911 Snow Av
> Alto, Mi 49302
> (616) 868-7149
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Re: [Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Paul:

Use Menu: Lvl Cal

See "Amplitude Calibration" in your P3 Owner's manual for details.


73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul VanOveren
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 11:19 AM
To: elecraft reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

Just listening to 9a2na on 15 metersS-9 on the K3 S meter and about
S5-S6 on the P3 and also on the larger monitor, SVGA...How do I get them to
match each other?, or at least be somewhat similar strength.?

NF8J

Paul VanOveren
5911 Snow Av
Alto, Mi 49302
(616) 868-7149

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[Elecraft] Signal comparison k3 vs p3

[Paul VanOveren]

Just listening to 9a2na on 15 metersS-9 on the K3 S meter and about
S5-S6 on the P3 and also on the larger monitor, SVGA...How do I get them to
match each other?, or at least be somewhat similar strength.?

NF8J

Paul VanOveren
5911 Snow Av
Alto, Mi 49302
(616) 868-7149
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Don Wilhelm]

Fred,

You can wire "OR" either the high side or the low side.
If you are running the tribander on the low side, just connect the 10, 
15, and 20 outputs together, and drive the bandpass filter from the 
separated low side outputs.  Swap 'high' and 'low' if required.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2013 12:56 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

Thanks Jack. I figured that was the case. What I want(ed) to do is drive
the 6-pack x-bar switch which has a tribander on it so 10-15-20 will be
mapped to the same output PLUS drive a 6-band bandpass filter which
needs to have separate outputs for 10-15-20. Any ideas?
Cheers,



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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Cady, Fred]

Thanks Jack. I figured that was the case. What I want(ed) to do is drive
the 6-pack x-bar switch which has a tribander on it so 10-15-20 will be
mapped to the same output PLUS drive a 6-band bandpass filter which
needs to have separate outputs for 10-15-20. Any ideas?
Cheers,
Fred KE7X 

-Original Message-
From: Jack Brindle [mailto:jackbrin...@me.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 9:44 AM
To: Cady, Fred
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

Fred;

If you mean the KRC2, the high and low side drivers are locked together
in hardware, so no they cannot be separated. With 16 configurable
selections, it meets most folks needs.

This is also a good time to remind folks that the final KRC2
configuration tool is on the Elecraft web site. The text may say "beta",
but it is the real thing.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 8, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Cady, Fred"  wrote:

> Can the RC2 controller be set up so the high side driver configuration

> is different than the low side?
> 
> Thanks and cheers,
> Fred KE7X
> 
> Fred Cady
> fcady at ieee dot org
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] What monitor to use?

[Alan Bloom]

1024 x 768 seems to be the lowest common denominator - almost all 
monitors support that resolution.  I normally leave my P3 SVGA set for 
1024 x 768 just because the text is bigger and it makes the lines fatter 
and easier to see.


For a photo, the aspect ratio has to be correct or the photo looks 
"stretched."  For a panadapter or other graph-like image it doesn't matter.


Alan N1AL


On 3/8/2013 5:18 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Thanks, Mike.  Unfortunately, that means that the inexpensive 1366 x
768 monitors will not be a very good fit because of the differences
in aspect ratio vs. the two lower resolutions that would "fit."

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 6:12 AM, Mike K2MK wrote:

Hi Joe,

I opened the menu option on my P3 and here are the available resolutions:

1024 x 768
1280 x 1024
1440 x 900
1920 x 1080
1920 x 1080 alt

73,
Mike K2MK


Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote

What native resolutions does the P3SVGA support - just the four listed
on the web page?  I see quite a few inexpensive, small (15 to 19")
monitors at 1366 x 768 and 1600 x 900 - obviously derived from the new
laptop panels - these days.  The lowest three resolutions listed are
becoming increasingly rare in new monitors.

73,
 ... Joe, W4TV






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[Elecraft] WTB: KX3

[Phil LaMarche]

Please give me the details and shipping to 34684 in Florida.

 

Phil W9DVM

 

Philip LaMarche

 

 

727-944-3226

727-510-5038 Cell 

   www.w9dvm.com

  WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM

 

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

KAT500  #50

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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[Elecraft] Filters for sale

[Allen Brier N5XZ]

I have the following filters for sale:

2 ea KFL3A-2.7K 2700Hz 5-pole (matched)

$72 ea shipped (20% off Elecraft price) CONUS. No screws included. PayPal 
preferred.

Allen Brier N5XZ
n...@earthlink.net
713-705-4801
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Re: [Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Jack Brindle]

Fred;

If you mean the KRC2, the high and low side drivers are locked together in 
hardware, so no they cannot be separated. With 16 configurable selections, it 
meets most folks needs.

This is also a good time to remind folks that the final KRC2 configuration tool 
is on the Elecraft web site. The text may say "beta", but it is the real thing.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 8, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Cady, Fred"  wrote:

> Can the RC2 controller be set up so the high side driver configuration
> is different than the low side?
> 
> Thanks and cheers,
> Fred KE7X
> 
> Fred Cady
> fcady at ieee dot org 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Thanks Elecraft

[Matthew Zilmer]

Same here.  In the low 4 MHz range (MARS ops), I had a number of low amplitude 
oddball spikes.  I am also very happy to report these are now below the noise 
level.

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of w0...@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2013 3:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Thanks Elecraft

Received today the replacement BNC/BNC cable for the P3 just four days after my 
e-mail request.  The phantom spike is gone.
 
You gals and guys are the very best, thank you!
 
73 de Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] setting upper cut/lower cut via commands

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

An asymmetric filter on one center frequency is symmetric on
the correct center frequency.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 10:35 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

True, but making an asymmetric filter isn't possible I think.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 3/8/2013 13:26, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


BW/BW$ and IS are more reliable since they are not impacted by the
K3 meta status.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 8:15 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

All I see is the FI and FW commands, so one must "do the math" to
simulate HiCut or LoCut.  Move the IF center frequency by half the
reduction in width.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/7/2013 9:27 PM, Brian Alsop wrote:

I don't seem to find any way to set upper cut and lower cut values via
a macro. The programmer's manual doesn't seem to have mnemonics to do
so Is it even possible?  I know one can set the bandwidth and shift.
Is that what we're supposed to do?  I'd rather set the individual
"cut" values independently.



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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5656 - Release Date: 03/08/13






-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5656 - Release Date: 03/08/13

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[Elecraft] Thanks Elecraft

[W0WOI]

Received today the replacement BNC/BNC cable for the P3 just four days  
after my e-mail request.  The phantom spike is gone.
 
You gals and guys are the very best, thank you!
 
73 de Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] setting upper cut/lower cut via commands

[Brian Alsop]

True, but making an asymmetric filter isn't possible I think.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 3/8/2013 13:26, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


BW/BW$ and IS are more reliable since they are not impacted by the
K3 meta status.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 8:15 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

All I see is the FI and FW commands, so one must "do the math" to
simulate HiCut or LoCut.  Move the IF center frequency by half the
reduction in width.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/7/2013 9:27 PM, Brian Alsop wrote:

I don't seem to find any way to set upper cut and lower cut values via
a macro. The programmer's manual doesn't seem to have mnemonics to do
so Is it even possible?  I know one can set the bandwidth and shift.
Is that what we're supposed to do?  I'd rather set the individual
"cut" values independently.



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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5656 - Release Date: 03/08/13






-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5656 - Release Date: 03/08/13

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[Elecraft] RC2 - high side and low side different

[Cady, Fred]

Can the RC2 controller be set up so the high side driver configuration
is different than the low side?

Thanks and cheers,
Fred KE7X

Fred Cady
fcady at ieee dot org 

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Re: [Elecraft] setting upper cut/lower cut via commands

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

BW/BW$ and IS are more reliable since they are not impacted by the
K3 meta status.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 8:15 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

All I see is the FI and FW commands, so one must "do the math" to
simulate HiCut or LoCut.  Move the IF center frequency by half the
reduction in width.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/7/2013 9:27 PM, Brian Alsop wrote:

I don't seem to find any way to set upper cut and lower cut values via
a macro. The programmer's manual doesn't seem to have mnemonics to do
so Is it even possible?  I know one can set the bandwidth and shift.
Is that what we're supposed to do?  I'd rather set the individual
"cut" values independently.



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Re: [Elecraft] What monitor to use?

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Thanks, Mike.  Unfortunately, that means that the inexpensive 1366 x
768 monitors will not be a very good fit because of the differences
in aspect ratio vs. the two lower resolutions that would "fit."

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/8/2013 6:12 AM, Mike K2MK wrote:

Hi Joe,

I opened the menu option on my P3 and here are the available resolutions:

1024 x 768
1280 x 1024
1440 x 900
1920 x 1080
1920 x 1080 alt

73,
Mike K2MK


Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote

What native resolutions does the P3SVGA support - just the four listed
on the web page?  I see quite a few inexpensive, small (15 to 19")
monitors at 1366 x 768 and 1600 x 900 - obviously derived from the new
laptop panels - these days.  The lowest three resolutions listed are
becoming increasingly rare in new monitors.

73,
 ... Joe, W4TV






--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/What-monitor-to-use-tp7570934p7570969.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] setting upper cut/lower cut via commands

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

All I see is the FI and FW commands, so one must "do the math" to 
simulate HiCut or LoCut.  Move the IF center frequency by half the 
reduction in width.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/7/2013 9:27 PM, Brian Alsop wrote:
I don't seem to find any way to set upper cut and lower cut values via 
a macro. The programmer's manual doesn't seem to have mnemonics to do 
so Is it even possible?  I know one can set the bandwidth and shift. 
Is that what we're supposed to do?  I'd rather set the individual 
"cut" values independently.




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Serial Port Problem

[Dick Dievendorff]

Sometimes people select the wrong serial port # in the KPA Utility.  If you
have several ports to choose from on the "Ports" tab, try each.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Mitchell
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 4:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 Serial Port Problem

I  bought an KPA 500 this fall and just started using it because my antenna
was down from the hurricaine.  I can't get the serial port to communicate
with my computer.  I bought two of the UISB to serial cables with the FTDI
chipset, which I KNOW work because my Winkeyer uses one, and neither one
could find my amp.  I then bought a two port PCI serial card and a
conventiional cable and could not connect using that setup, even though
Windows XP says that all the ports are working properly.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  I might just have a bad serial board and
the amp should still be under warranty.

--
Dave WB2PJH
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[Elecraft] KPA500 Serial Port Problem

[David Mitchell]

I  bought an KPA 500 this fall and just started using it because my antenna
was down from the hurricaine.  I can't get the serial port to communicate
with my computer.  I bought two of the UISB to serial cables with the FTDI
chipset, which I KNOW work because my Winkeyer uses one, and neither one
could find my amp.  I then bought a two port PCI serial card and a
conventiional cable and could not connect using that setup, even though
Windows XP says that all the ports are working properly.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  I might just have a bad serial board and
the amp should still be under warranty.

-- 
Dave WB2PJH
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Re: [Elecraft] What monitor to use?

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Joe,

I opened the menu option on my P3 and here are the available resolutions:

1024 x 768
1280 x 1024
1440 x 900
1920 x 1080
1920 x 1080 alt

73,
Mike K2MK


Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote
> What native resolutions does the P3SVGA support - just the four listed
> on the web page?  I see quite a few inexpensive, small (15 to 19") 
> monitors at 1366 x 768 and 1600 x 900 - obviously derived from the new 
> laptop panels - these days.  The lowest three resolutions listed are
> becoming increasingly rare in new monitors.
> 
> 73,
> ... Joe, W4TV





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[Elecraft] 3/8/2013 9:35:20 AM

[Norman Sharples]

http://www.choeurdesaintguillaume.com/ofigmz/dpvonih/plxxdq/iymxted/hbymptn  



 Norman Sharples 


3/8/2013 9:35:20 AM   
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