Re: [Elecraft] K3S and Acom 2000A

[Val]

Tom,

I am still on K3, but there should be no difference. ACOM 2000A needs 
a Y cable too. Or instead of two Y cables make a X cable :). If you 
have alredy tried this but not satisfied, just write me directly.


73, Val LZ1VB



I have two K3S connected to two Acom 200A. I am using the USB 
interface to
the computer and running Writelog and Wintest. The P3's are 
connected via

the special Y cable on the RS232 interface.

Has anyone successfully managed to control the Acom 2000A with the 
K3S?

Please share!

Tom Taormina, K5RC
Comstock Memorial Station, W7RN
Storey County ARES, KS7AA
 www.w7rn.com
775-847-7929


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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline Loss With Mismatched Loads

[Myron Schaffer]

Thank goodness for SimSmith...

Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data

> On Apr 28, 2016, at 10:12 PM, Josh Fiden  wrote:
> 
> https://www.fars.k6ya.org/docs/Conjugate-Match-Myths.pdf
> 
> Analysis of errors in Reflections book starts on p.21
> 
> 73,
> Josh W6XU
> 
>> On 4/28/2016 8:57 PM, Wes wrote:
>> Google is most definitely not my friend, or anyone else's for that matter.
>> 
>> I was hopeful that you had an answer
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline Loss With Mismatched Loads

[Josh Fiden]

https://www.fars.k6ya.org/docs/Conjugate-Match-Myths.pdf

Analysis of errors in Reflections book starts on p.21

73,
Josh W6XU

On 4/28/2016 8:57 PM, Wes wrote:
Google is most definitely not my friend, or anyone else's for that 
matter.


I was hopeful that you had an answer


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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline Loss With Mismatched Loads

[Wes]

Google is most definitely not my friend, or anyone else's for that matter.

I was hopeful that you had an answer

On 4/27/2016 10:57 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Wed,4/27/2016 10:32 PM, Wes wrote:
Where are the errors? 


K6OIK has published on the subject.  Google is your friend. :)

73, Jim


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[Elecraft] K3s 2M Reception

[Jose Rivera]

Are there any rankings or detail info on how good (or bad) the K3s 2 meter 
module is in regards to being
able to receive 2M SSB? It's time for me to buy a 2m SSB radio. And I wonder if 
the 2M module receives as
well as HF on the K3s. Am considering getting a K3s with 2M and being that's 
it's not cheap, want to make
sure it's worth it. 

 

Jose B Rivera

N2LRB

www.n2lrb.com

 

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[Elecraft] K3S and Acom 2000A

[tom]

I have two K3S connected to two Acom 200A. I am using the USB interface to
the computer and running Writelog and Wintest. The P3's are connected via
the special Y cable on the RS232 interface.
 
Has anyone successfully managed to control the Acom 2000A with the K3S?
Please share!
 
Tom Taormina, K5RC
Comstock Memorial Station, W7RN
Storey County ARES, KS7AA
  www.w7rn.com 
775-847-7929
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature Request: ANT2 without ATU for KXPA100

[Rick Robinson]

Sounds like a simple antenna switch is your solution. Esp since you are
using mag loops which do not use a tuner. I just bought a band
decoder($75)from a lady on the group and you would need that and a remote
switch that senses band voltages. Again a lot of investment . BTW your MO
is in the mail.

On Thursday, April 28, 2016, Bruce Nourish  wrote:

> Multiple loops. I could buy a separate switch of course, but the KX3
> integration of the KXPA is sweet.
>
> On Thu, Apr 28, 2016, 12:12 Phil Wheeler >
> wrote:
>
> > I'm puzzled, Bruce: Why do you need an ANT2 jack
> > at all?
> >
> > Phil W7OX
> >
> > On 4/28/16 11:56 AM, Bruce Nourish wrote:
> > > Hi Elecraft folks,
> > >
> > > I use the ATU on my KX3 all the time with portable antennas, but my
> home
> > > antennas, where I'll be using my KXPA100, are all resonant (mag loops).
> > To
> > > get a second antenna outlet I have to cough up $380 and install the
> > tuner,
> > > which is quite a bit of money for something I mostly won't use. I'd
> > happily
> > > pay $50 or so for a small standalone kit that provided an ANT2 jack,
> and
> > I
> > > suspect I'm not the only one.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
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> >
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>


-- 
Rick, W8ZT

Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature Request: ANT2 without ATU for KXPA100

[Bruce Nourish]

Multiple loops. I could buy a separate switch of course, but the KX3
integration of the KXPA is sweet.

On Thu, Apr 28, 2016, 12:12 Phil Wheeler  wrote:

> I'm puzzled, Bruce: Why do you need an ANT2 jack
> at all?
>
> Phil W7OX
>
> On 4/28/16 11:56 AM, Bruce Nourish wrote:
> > Hi Elecraft folks,
> >
> > I use the ATU on my KX3 all the time with portable antennas, but my home
> > antennas, where I'll be using my KXPA100, are all resonant (mag loops).
> To
> > get a second antenna outlet I have to cough up $380 and install the
> tuner,
> > which is quite a bit of money for something I mostly won't use. I'd
> happily
> > pay $50 or so for a small standalone kit that provided an ANT2 jack, and
> I
> > suspect I'm not the only one.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Bruce
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature Request: ANT2 without ATU for KXPA100

[Phil Wheeler]

I'm puzzled, Bruce: Why do you need an ANT2 jack 
at all?


Phil W7OX

On 4/28/16 11:56 AM, Bruce Nourish wrote:

Hi Elecraft folks,

I use the ATU on my KX3 all the time with portable antennas, but my home
antennas, where I'll be using my KXPA100, are all resonant (mag loops). To
get a second antenna outlet I have to cough up $380 and install the tuner,
which is quite a bit of money for something I mostly won't use. I'd happily
pay $50 or so for a small standalone kit that provided an ANT2 jack, and I
suspect I'm not the only one.

Cheers,
Bruce




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[Elecraft] Feature Request: ANT2 without ATU for KXPA100

[Bruce Nourish]

Hi Elecraft folks,

I use the ATU on my KX3 all the time with portable antennas, but my home
antennas, where I'll be using my KXPA100, are all resonant (mag loops). To
get a second antenna outlet I have to cough up $380 and install the tuner,
which is quite a bit of money for something I mostly won't use. I'd happily
pay $50 or so for a small standalone kit that provided an ANT2 jack, and I
suspect I'm not the only one.

Cheers,
Bruce
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Frank Cox]

Thanks for that Scott,

I did a careful visual of the SM components with magnification after I read
your post. Everything looks ok.

I did have a moment of elation when I saw how close the solder pads of C39
are to the pins of U2 but looking at the schematic they should be connected.

Still trying.

73  



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Frank Cox]

Thanks Don,

I tried doing a reset and it came up E09 as it should but after a short time
the display went dark and came back on with only the E illuminated extra
bright. This is another symptom I've noticed that I haven't mentioned
before. When the display is going off while I'm actively giving inputs (so
not an idle timeout), any one digit my come back on extra bright, with or
without other digits illuminated normally.  

The above happened while the circuit was warmed up. When I first tried to
this morning cold it worked as described in my first post for about half a
minute. Then it started going dark as I said. If I turn it off a short time
it will "work" for a while and start going dark again. If I turn it off
longer it takes longer to act up. 

This makes me think of heat but nothing gets warm to the touch. I checked
with an IR thermometer and the active components warm a few degrees from
cold but none more than the others.

I also started today with a battery supply to eliminate possible issues
which the switching supply I was using. 

Frustrating.  



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[Elecraft] kpa 500 gain question

[Bill Steffey NY9H]

i see that Expert is proposing to the FCC to eliminate the 15db gain...

SB QST ARL ARLB015
ARLB015 FCC Invites Comments on Petition to Eliminate 15 dB Gain
Limit on Amateur Amplifiers


Wondering how easy a mod ( and firmware) would enable our kx3s
and Elad Duos  to fully drive the KPA500

bill ny9h/3  


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Scott Ellington]

I recently built a KX-1, and had the following problems (none of which 
were my fault):


1.  Factory installed solder bridge on the DDS chip pins, shorting out 
clock input.


2.  Bad DDS chip causing really bizarre behavior.  Unrelated to above 
solder bridge and definitely not a bad connection.  Elecraft had never 
seen that before.


3.  Bad solder joint on pre-installed surface mount mixer chip on 
carrier board.


It works fine now.

Based on my experience, I would be very suspicious of every surface 
mount IC connection.  Look at voltages and waveforms right at the 
surface mount package lead.  Unfortunately, you need a microscope and a 
very fine-tipped soldering iron to re-solder them, and it's very easy to 
create new solder bridges.  Elecraft support suggested a piece of number 
20 wire wrapped around the tip of a soldering iron.  I used a Metcal 
soldering station, but replacing the DDS chip was still difficult.


73,

Scott  K9MA

On 4/28/2016 06:27, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Frank,

It sounds like the MCU is getting "mixed up".  Try doing a Reset to 
Factory Defaults.

See page 69 in the manual.  It is a 2 step process.
1) Hold BAND and MENU together and power on - release the buttons 
after the LED test.  E09 should be displayed.

2) Turn power off, then back on and you should see E10.  Tap any switch.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/28/2016 3:01 AM, Frank Cox wrote:

(this is a repost after accidentally adding this to another thread)

I'm building a KX1 and finished Part 1. I encountered problems during
testing.

First I noticed when scrolling through the MENU items some some 
segments of

the LED display don't light on some menu item names. However the same
segments will light on another menu item so it doesn't seem to be a 
problem

with the display itself. Also, tuning with the encoder and band switch
displayed as expected.

But now the display started going dark during tests and not coming 
back on
after button clicks or encoder turns. When it does this the 5v and 6v 
lines
still have correct voltages and nothing feels hot to the touch. The 
only way

to get it to come back is to turn it off and wait a while.

I've carefully checked parts placement and solder joints and can find no
problems so far, and it passes all the part 1 voltage tests.




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--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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[Elecraft] KPA100 For Sale SOLD!

[George Cortez via Elecraft]

Didn't last long! Thanks folks!
George NE2I
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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner

[Edward R Cole]

I've been looking at the Steppir to replace my very old 
TH3mk4.  Actually I have been looking a several tower changes:
replace my 50-foot Rohn-25g with 45g* (if a Hazer for 45g can be 
had); add a section to the other 25g tower and move the Hazer-4 to it 
(has my HF yagi + 222 & 432 yagis); and add two sections 45g* to the 
6m-eme tower.


But I digress: The 4-element Steppir would replace two antennas and 
eliminate using a tuner 20m-6m.  But my concern is how well they 
operate under cold wx and icy-snow conditions (which is not uncommon 
in AK).  Maint. would be fairly convenient with Hazer lift to lower 
to roof-top level (tower is wall-mounted on end of house so hazer 
would drop to about 18-feet above ground).


Probably wishful thinking considering the cost of all these ideas 
(need wife approval).  But as I get older more HF operation is 
likely: mostly like chatting and a little light Dxing.  EME takes my 
serious efforts 


73, Ed - KL7UW
*Local ham has 400-foot of 45g which very unusual for up here

From: Jim Brown 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner
Message-ID: <57213f46.2060...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

On Wed,4/27/2016 2:31 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> I've had my 4 El Steppir (20-10, plus 2 more fixed el for 6 m) up for
> over ten years 1 mile from the Ocean. Zero problems.

My 3-el (no trombones) has been up on a 120 ft tower about 12 miles N of
Eric's QTH for about 7 years, also with no problems I can blame on the
antenna (but several I can blame on myself). :) I find the antenna quite
effective on all bands, 20-6M.

73, Jim K9YC


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Procedure: Setting the DSP filters for SSB

[ac2ev]

Thanks to all for the responses. I've been doing wrong the whole. I have not 
been using hi and low cut which explains my frustration.


> 
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[Elecraft] Krx3a

[Doug]

Looking for krx3a receiver with or without new synthesizer. Priced accordingly. 
Give me all info about and price. Doug. WD8Z

Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] FS: New SignalLink USB for KX3

[W1XT]

FS:  From estate, NEW SignalLink USB Interface with cables for the KX3.

Untested but brand new in box. Several months old but never plugged in.

$95 including shipping. I think it’s original cost was about $130.

PayPal only shipped to confirmed address.

Thanks.

Bob, W1XT, Sun City West, AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Nifty stand

[Bruce Nourish]

Sold!

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016, 21:42 Bruce Nourish  wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I picked up a nifty PX3 stand with a recent purchase of a PX3, but I don't
> need it for my shack, and someone else should have the use of it. Used but
> good condition, shipped domestic only. $10 + shipping, whatever method you
> want.
>
> Bruce
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA 100 for sale

[Bruce Nourish]

I'll take it.

On Thu, Apr 28, 2016, 06:59 George Cortez via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Hardly used KXPA 100 without antenna tuner. Ill include the KX3 Wiring kit
> also for 680$ shipped CONUS for the List.
> Thanks George NE2I
>
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[Elecraft] KXPA 100 for sale

[George Cortez via Elecraft]

Hardly used KXPA 100 without antenna tuner. Ill include the KX3 Wiring kit also 
for 680$ shipped CONUS for the List. 
Thanks George NE2I

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Don Wilhelm]

Frank,

It sounds like the MCU is getting "mixed up".  Try doing a Reset to 
Factory Defaults.

See page 69 in the manual.  It is a 2 step process.
1) Hold BAND and MENU together and power on - release the buttons after 
the LED test.  E09 should be displayed.

2) Turn power off, then back on and you should see E10.  Tap any switch.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/28/2016 3:01 AM, Frank Cox wrote:

(this is a repost after accidentally adding this to another thread)

I'm building a KX1 and finished Part 1. I encountered problems during
testing.

First I noticed when scrolling through the MENU items some some segments of
the LED display don't light on some menu item names. However the same
segments will light on another menu item so it doesn't seem to be a problem
with the display itself. Also, tuning with the encoder and band switch
displayed as expected.

But now the display started going dark during tests and not coming back on
after button clicks or encoder turns. When it does this the 5v and 6v lines
still have correct voltages and nothing feels hot to the touch. The only way
to get it to come back is to turn it off and wait a while.

I've carefully checked parts placement and solder joints and can find no
problems so far, and it passes all the part 1 voltage tests.




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Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner

[Ian White]

SteppIR's reputation is still haunted by reviews from its early days
(the first eHam review was in 2001) but the SteppIR antenna you would
buy today is not the same as it was back then. SteppIR have made several
improvements over the years, including new and stronger moldings for the
element/motors, stronger and better quality fiberglass tubes, and the
new SDA100 controller.

A few years ago, a kind friend lent me his early model 3-element to try
over winter and it worked out fine. Based on that good experience I
bought a new 3-element for myself, and that too has proved reliable. But
when I unpacked the new antenna, the improvements over the earlier model
were clear to see.

Today's versions of the original 20-10m yagis with their simple,
straight 17+17ft elements can now be considered a mature technology. The
later models featuring longer elements and/or trombone elements are
demanding more from the original SteppIR design concept, but I have no
experience of those.

Every yagi has its advantages and also its drawbacks, so your choice
will depend on what's important for you at your particular QTH. The
3-element has been a good solution for this one-tower station because it
gives good performance (for its size) on five HF bands, yet with only a
little more wind loading than a 3-element 20m monobander. With improved
modifications for 6m [1] the same antenna has worked over 100 countries
on that band also.

There are still improvements that SteppIR could make (a weatherproof
junction box should come as standard, not a $185 extra, and SteppIR's
documentation is perennially awful) but the SteppIR 3-element is a very
serious contender for people with limited wind loading and mast space.


[1] www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/vhfdx/gm3sek-steppir-6m.pdf


73 from Ian GM3SEK


>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>Jim Brown
>Sent: 27 April 2016 23:38
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedline loss w/wo tuner
>
>On Wed,4/27/2016 2:31 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>> I've had my 4 El Steppir (20-10, plus 2 more fixed el for 6 m) up for
>> over ten years 1 mile from the Ocean. Zero problems.
>
>My 3-el (no trombones) has been up on a 120 ft tower about 12 miles N
of
>Eric's QTH for about 7 years, also with no problems I can blame on the
>antenna (but several I can blame on myself). :) I find the antenna
quite
>effective on all bands, 20-6M.
>
>73, Jim K9YC
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>Elecraft mailing list
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>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>Message delivered to gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk

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[Elecraft] KX1 build issue after Part 1 of build

[Frank Cox]

(this is a repost after accidentally adding this to another thread)

I'm building a KX1 and finished Part 1. I encountered problems during
testing.

First I noticed when scrolling through the MENU items some some segments of
the LED display don't light on some menu item names. However the same
segments will light on another menu item so it doesn't seem to be a problem
with the display itself. Also, tuning with the encoder and band switch
displayed as expected.

But now the display started going dark during tests and not coming back on
after button clicks or encoder turns. When it does this the 5v and 6v lines
still have correct voltages and nothing feels hot to the touch. The only way
to get it to come back is to turn it off and wait a while.

I've carefully checked parts placement and solder joints and can find no
problems so far, and it passes all the part 1 voltage tests. 

Don, W3FPR suggested reflowing all the solder joints. Anything else?

73, Frank KK6WUU






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