Re: [Elecraft] Heath kit and the Lazarus Loop

[Brian Denley]

Still have my Heathkit ET-3400 and ETA-3400.  Learned 6800 assembly language on 
that pair before moving up to a OSI C1-P.  It would be great to see Heathkit 
back to something fun.  I was bummed when my K2/100 rig was finished.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 9, 2016, at 7:08 PM, Lewis Phelps  wrote:
> 
> Heathkit was at the forefront of the personal computer revolution.  Their H-8 
> was one of the earliest 8-bit computers, and the H-89 one of the first Z-80 
> machines, as well as being the first “all in one” computer that combined the 
> keyboard, monitor, and processor into a single enclosure.  I used an H-89 as 
> a word processor for a number of years, upgrading it with aftermarket 
> products (which were plentiful) to the first-ever silicon drive, in lieu of a 
> 5 inch floppy. It didn’t have “permanent” memory, so you had to copy files a 
> a floppy before shutting down, but it sure accelerated the word processing 
> speed.  The Z-80 (an enhanced 8080 chip made by Zilog) addressed 64K of 
> memory, and the operating system (CP/M) used about 39K, which didn’t leave 
> much space for the word processing app and the document file.  There was a 
> lot of swapping of chunks of instruction in and out of memory.  
> 
> They didn’t keep up with the advances in technology forever, but I think that 
> was due more to a lack of capital than a lack of focus. Their 16-bit machines 
> never caught on in the face of the IBM PC onslaught.
> 
> Lew N6LEW
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2016, at 12:47 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>> 
>> It may be that Heath’s demise came less from a lack of entrepreneurship than 
>> from a lack of focus on the market where it had mastered its route to 
>> success.  The introduction of personal computers at around the same time 
>> probably played a role as well. 
> 
> Lew Phelps N6LEW
> Pasadena, CA DM04wd
> Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
> Yaesu FT-7800 
> l...@n6lew.us
> www.n6lew.us
> 
> Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
> together will fall apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K2 KAT100-2 bypass

[George Rebong]

I would like to use an external antenna tuner. How can I set the K2 KAT100-2 
antenna tuner on bypass?
George KE6TE

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

[Ken]

I have recently had my K3 switch modes as I tune up the band. Like from 
LSB to CW.  My s/n is 6000+ though.



Ken WA8JXM


On 8/9/16 10:04 AM, Mark E. Musick wrote:

Your problem is most likely the front panel connectors. This is a known
problem for early K3s. Early K3s had tin connectors between the front panel
and RF board. Elecraft switched to gold connectors around serial #4000. I
just had my serial #3505 in for upgrades and they switched the connectors
while they had it.


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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Here is a device I made to do that:


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 9 Aug 2016 23:56, MaverickNH wrote:

Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one readily
detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[riese-k3djc]

works on watch crystals too


On Tue, 9 Aug 2016 22:55:08 -0400 Mike va3mw 
writes:
> Toothpaste. 
> 
> Colgate. 
> 
> I was taught this by a jet airplane mechanic when I was 15. That's 
> what they used on the windscreen. 
> 
> Mike va3mw
> 
> > On Aug 9, 2016, at 4:54 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > I found that putting the clear shipping tape on the display before 
> going into the rough will save the display.  
> > 
> > Mel, K6KBE
> > 
> > 
> >  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
> > To: 'Nick Kennedy' ; 
> Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 1:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
> > 
> > A slightly more aggressive approach is to pick up the headlight 
> lens cleaner sold at most automobile stores - the stuff that takes 
> the "yellow" haze off of plastic headlight covers. It's also sold 
> for use on aircraft windshields to polish out the scratches that 
> inevitably come from charging through the air at 150 mph or so (but 
> that costs 10X as much because it is sold for use on "airplanes"). 
> > 
> > All you do is wipe it on, rubbing aggressively with a cloth and 
> then, as it turns white, wipe it off. 
> > 
> > I've read of people using toothpaste with the same result. (And 
> then you'd have a fluoride protected lens that won't get tooth 
> decay.) 
> > 
> > 73, Ron AC7AC
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf 
> Of Don Wilhelm
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 9:42 AM
> > To: Nick Kennedy; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
> > 
> > Nick,
> > 
> > The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area 
> with some pressure.
> > That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate 
> scratches that have gouged into the plastic.
> > 
> > If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is 
> to order a new bezel.
> > 
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> > 
> >> On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
> >> I�ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display�s 
> cover. (Yes, 
> >> shame on me!)
> >> 
> >> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? 
> Or would it be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
> > 
> > 
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> > 
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> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to farrerfo...@yahoo.com
> > 
> > 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Mike va3mw]

Toothpaste. 

Colgate. 

I was taught this by a jet airplane mechanic when I was 15. That's what they 
used on the windscreen. 

Mike va3mw

> On Aug 9, 2016, at 4:54 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I found that putting the clear shipping tape on the display before going into 
> the rough will save the display.  
> 
> Mel, K6KBE
> 
> 
>  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
> To: 'Nick Kennedy' ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 1:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
> 
> A slightly more aggressive approach is to pick up the headlight lens cleaner 
> sold at most automobile stores - the stuff that takes the "yellow" haze off 
> of plastic headlight covers. It's also sold for use on aircraft windshields 
> to polish out the scratches that inevitably come from charging through the 
> air at 150 mph or so (but that costs 10X as much because it is sold for use 
> on "airplanes"). 
> 
> All you do is wipe it on, rubbing aggressively with a cloth and then, as it 
> turns white, wipe it off. 
> 
> I've read of people using toothpaste with the same result. (And then you'd 
> have a fluoride protected lens that won't get tooth decay.) 
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
> Wilhelm
> Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 9:42 AM
> To: Nick Kennedy; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
> 
> Nick,
> 
> The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area with some 
> pressure.
> That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate scratches that 
> have gouged into the plastic.
> 
> If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is to order a 
> new bezel.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
>> I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, 
>> shame on me!)
>> 
>> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would 
>> it be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Joe Stone (KF5WBO)]

This may help in weighing your options,

E100403 / KX3 Bezel, $27.24

73's

Joe Stone
KF5WBO



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Scuff-marks-on-display-cover-tp7621423p7621442.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Using K3 w/AS original Bandmaster band decoder

[AB2E Darrell]

Hello,

I just purchased a used Bandmaster (Array Solutions) band decoder. The manual 
does not have any settings listed for Elecraft.


Could someone using a K3/original Bandmaster combo please email me offlist and 
let me know which settings you used?

There is a one line mention of using a K2 with the Kenwood setting but no 
details.


Thanks and 73,
Darrell AB2E

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Re: [Elecraft] Heath kit and the Lazarus Loop

[Lewis Phelps]

Heathkit was at the forefront of the personal computer revolution.  Their H-8 
was one of the earliest 8-bit computers, and the H-89 one of the first Z-80 
machines, as well as being the first “all in one” computer that combined the 
keyboard, monitor, and processor into a single enclosure.  I used an H-89 as a 
word processor for a number of years, upgrading it with aftermarket products 
(which were plentiful) to the first-ever silicon drive, in lieu of a 5 inch 
floppy. It didn’t have “permanent” memory, so you had to copy files a a floppy 
before shutting down, but it sure accelerated the word processing speed.  The 
Z-80 (an enhanced 8080 chip made by Zilog) addressed 64K of memory, and the 
operating system (CP/M) used about 39K, which didn’t leave much space for the 
word processing app and the document file.  There was a lot of swapping of 
chunks of instruction in and out of memory.  

They didn’t keep up with the advances in technology forever, but I think that 
was due more to a lack of capital than a lack of focus. Their 16-bit machines 
never caught on in the face of the IBM PC onslaught.

Lew N6LEW



> On Aug 8, 2016, at 12:47 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> It may be that Heath’s demise came less from a lack of entrepreneurship than 
> from a lack of focus on the market where it had mastered its route to 
> success.  The introduction of personal computers at around the same time 
> probably played a role as well. 

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 build problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Richard,

Do not lift the leg of R28, it will not do any good.  You might want to 
re-flow the soldering of R28 and see what happens.


I don't understand how you have a negative DC voltage at the base of 
Q7.  That base voltage comes from the 6T voltage rail in the KX1 and 
then flows through R28.  Measure the voltage at both ends of R28.  
During transmit, one end should be about 6 volts and the other end 
should be near 0.7 volts (the base to emitter voltage of a typical 
transistor).  In other words, Q7 should be saturated which places the 
capacitor CA and (depending on the band) C26 in parallel with the input 
of the Low Pass Filter into the LPF circuit while protecting the 
receiver front end from the TX RF. If that does not happen, the LPF will 
not be tuned properly.


Measure again carefully and if still not in line with the expected 
voltages, replace Q7.


On the low RF output, if you have an oscilloscope with a 10X probe or an 
RF Probe, I can give you comparison RF voltage readings at each relevant 
point in the transmit chain.  If you want to do that, perhaps it is best 
we take this off-reflector and do it via private email.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 6:17 PM, Richard Fagar wrote:

Thank you in advance for your help.  I built a KX1, though I had it working
on 20-40 as I could receive great and made a few contacts.  No idea what the
power level was.  I added the 30 80 board and finally the tuner.  The tuner
is showing .4 watts topps.  I don't have a wattmeter, however someone showed
how to use a diode - capacitor and multimeter to get a good aproximation.
Again I am getting from .3 to .5 watts.  I have done the power mod, so I
started to look at voltages.  All are good except Q7 which should have a
base voltage in tune of .7 volts.  I am getting a negative .7 .8 volts
depending on band.  Since this transistor seems to be acting as a switch
driven by a line driver, driven by the MCU, I am wondering if it is safe to
lift a leg of the resistor feeding it and see what shows up.  I am fearfull
of dumping high level rf into somewhere it shouldn't be by doing this.
  
Has anyone else had this problem?  Looking for any help or solutions.
  
Thank you,

   Richard  KK4UFY
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[Elecraft] KX1 build problem

[Richard Fagar]

Thank you in advance for your help.  I built a KX1, though I had it working
on 20-40 as I could receive great and made a few contacts.  No idea what the
power level was.  I added the 30 80 board and finally the tuner.  The tuner
is showing .4 watts topps.  I don't have a wattmeter, however someone showed
how to use a diode - capacitor and multimeter to get a good aproximation.
Again I am getting from .3 to .5 watts.  I have done the power mod, so I
started to look at voltages.  All are good except Q7 which should have a
base voltage in tune of .7 volts.  I am getting a negative .7 .8 volts
depending on band.  Since this transistor seems to be acting as a switch
driven by a line driver, driven by the MCU, I am wondering if it is safe to
lift a leg of the resistor feeding it and see what shows up.  I am fearfull
of dumping high level rf into somewhere it shouldn't be by doing this. 
 
Has anyone else had this problem?  Looking for any help or solutions.
 
Thank you,
  Richard  KK4UFY
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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Ian White]

>
>Add another winding to a choke and it magically becomes a transformer!
>

Unfortunately that doesn't work for RF current measurement. The
objective for a choke is to create a  high series impedance, but the
objective for an RF current transformer is exactly the opposite: to
avoid disturbing the situation that is being measured, the impedance
inserted into the main line must be as low as possible.

To achieve a low impedance in the main line, an RF current transformer
requires *ONE* pass of the primary winding (feedline) through the core
and typically about 10 turns on the secondary. The secondary must also
be terminated in a low load resistance, typically about 50 ohms. With a
1:10 turns ratio the series impedance inserted into the main line is
then about 0.5 ohms. 

That is why a common-mode choke and a common-mode current transformer
are two completely different creatures. Don't confuse them.

73 from Ian GM3SEK


>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>Josh Fiden
>Sent: 09 August 2016 22:16
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes
>
>Add another winding to a choke and it magically becomes a transformer!
>
>73,
>Josh W6XU
>
>On 8/9/2016 1:56 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
>> Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one
readily
>> detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Common-mode-chokes-
>tp7621305p7621430.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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>> Message delivered to j...@voodoolab.com
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[EricJ]

W8JI also describes one and how to calibrate it.

http://w8ji.com/building_a_current_meter.htm

Eric KE6US

On Tue,8/9/2016 1:56 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one 
readily

detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?




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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Don Wilhelm]

Bret,

Refer to the K9YC (Jim Brown) paper on RFI, Ferrites, Baluns and Audio 
Interfacing for "good" baluns.

http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf.
For common mode chokes (baluns), look particularly at Chapter 7 of that 
document.


A stack of 5 FT240-31 cores and a length of coax sufficient to wind 5 to 
7 turns through the cores is generally less expensive (and more 
effective) than the cost of commercial baluns or "in-line isolators".


73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/9/2016 5:10 PM, MaverickNH wrote:

Further (apologies, I should have thunk it through before posting):

Based on http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/chokes/ which may or may not be
well-accepted, which choke configuration would you choose for "Best"? I'm
actually fond of two chokes in series to address the 1.8-30MHz range, but am
still pondering which two? At a hefty pre-made price, one can have 160-40m &
40-10m
http://palomar-engineers.com/antenna-products/1-1-balun-kits/super-choker,
albeit with no transparency of composition. What cost of of Low SNR?
Thousands$$$ spent on Transceivers/Antennas and $100s on chokes?




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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Josh Fiden]

Add another winding to a choke and it magically becomes a transformer!

73,
Josh W6XU

On 8/9/2016 1:56 PM, MaverickNH wrote:

Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one readily
detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?



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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Ian White]

>
>Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one
readily
>detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?
>

Google for: clamp-on rf current meter

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/clamp-on/clamp-on.htm

This review of two MFJ products (one good, one awful) may also be
useful:

http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/clamp-on/mfj-reviews.pdf 


73 from Ian GM3SEK


>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>MaverickNH
>Sent: 09 August 2016 21:56
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes
>
>Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one
readily
>detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?
>
>
>
>--
>View this message in context:
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>tp7621305p7621430.html
>Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,8/9/2016 1:56 PM, MaverickNH wrote:

Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one readily
detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?


Yes. A calibrated RF current probe coupled to the outside of the coax 
can easily measure common mode current.  Here are a couple of easy ways 
to do it.


http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/clamp-on/clamp-on.htm

Note that because the coax is acting as part of an antenna for common 
mode current, the current will vary along the line just as it would for 
any other antenna. For example, the coax a simple wire dipole in an 
earth-based station acts as a wire connected between the shield side of 
the dipole and ground, with the length of the wire equal to the physical 
length of the coax, and oriented in space as the actual coax is routed.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[MaverickNH]

Further (apologies, I should have thunk it through before posting):

Based on http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/chokes/ which may or may not be
well-accepted, which choke configuration would you choose for "Best"? I'm
actually fond of two chokes in series to address the 1.8-30MHz range, but am
still pondering which two? At a hefty pre-made price, one can have 160-40m &
40-10m
http://palomar-engineers.com/antenna-products/1-1-balun-kits/super-choker,
albeit with no transparency of composition. What cost of of Low SNR?
Thousands$$$ spent on Transceivers/Antennas and $100s on chokes?

BRET/KC1CJN



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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[MaverickNH]

Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one readily
detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

I found that putting the clear shipping tape on the display before going into 
the rough will save the display.  

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: 'Nick Kennedy' ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 1:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover
   
A slightly more aggressive approach is to pick up the headlight lens cleaner 
sold at most automobile stores - the stuff that takes the "yellow" haze off of 
plastic headlight covers. It's also sold for use on aircraft windshields to 
polish out the scratches that inevitably come from charging through the air at 
150 mph or so (but that costs 10X as much because it is sold for use on 
"airplanes"). 

All you do is wipe it on, rubbing aggressively with a cloth and then, as it 
turns white, wipe it off. 

I've read of people using toothpaste with the same result. (And then you'd have 
a fluoride protected lens that won't get tooth decay.) 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 9:42 AM
To: Nick Kennedy; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

Nick,

The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area with some 
pressure.
That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate scratches that 
have gouged into the plastic.

If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is to order a 
new bezel.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
> I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, 
> shame on me!)
>
> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
> be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

A slightly more aggressive approach is to pick up the headlight lens cleaner 
sold at most automobile stores - the stuff that takes the "yellow" haze off of 
plastic headlight covers. It's also sold for use on aircraft windshields to 
polish out the scratches that inevitably come from charging through the air at 
150 mph or so (but that costs 10X as much because it is sold for use on 
"airplanes"). 

All you do is wipe it on, rubbing aggressively with a cloth and then, as it 
turns white, wipe it off. 

I've read of people using toothpaste with the same result. (And then you'd have 
a fluoride protected lens that won't get tooth decay.) 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 9:42 AM
To: Nick Kennedy; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

Nick,

The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area with some 
pressure.
That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate scratches that 
have gouged into the plastic.

If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is to order a 
new bezel.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
> I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, 
> shame on me!)
>
> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
> be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[MaverickNH]

Thanks all - looks like a combination of the above got things working OK. I
can hear the voices moving around in my head, which would be a bad sign in
any other case, but a good sign for Diversity RX!  ;-)

Don, I'll open the case and have a look around to consider that solution
K2AV came up with - very innovative!

Bret/KC1CJN



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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: Piglet

[Joe W2KJ]

Was able to buy a Pigletmany thanks to all who offered one up for sale.

73, Joe W2KJ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Don Wilhelm]

Nick,

The easiest is to use a bit of oil on a cloth and rub the area with some 
pressure.
That will take care of scuff marks, but it will not eliminate scratches 
that have gouged into the plastic.


If the plastic surface has been gouged, I think the best thing is to 
order a new bezel.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy wrote:

I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, shame on 
me!)

Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

It depends on how deep the scratches are.

The easiest is Novus polish — a sequence of three products, available as a kit 
from Antique Electronic Supply, Amazon, etc.  This is best for minor surface 
scratches.  Micro-mesh is also really good, and available from Aircraft Spruce 
and other places no doubt.  
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/micromeshstd.php

I’ve used both products many times doing dial cover restorations, with the 
Micro-mesh better for deeper scratches.  Of course, ordering a new window is 
the easiest and most foolproof. :-)

Grant NQ5T


> On Aug 9, 2016, at 12:13 PM, Nick Kennedy  wrote:
> 
> I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, shame on 
> me!)
> 
> Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
> be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?
> 
> 73-
> 
> Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 PSK-31 IMD on Low Batteries

[Don Wilhelm]

Kevin,

As you noticed, the IMD of any transceiver is degraded when operating at 
a voltage below its design point.

That fact is independent of the mode.
Certainly, the KX3 will "work" down to 8 volts, but not without 
consequences.


I do not know the design point for the KX3 PA, but I would figure it is 
11 volts based on using fully charged NiMH batteries.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 11:00 AM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

I probably should have expected this and took action before anyone had to
mention it.

I was using a KX3 on internal battery. I was running PSK-31 using DATA-A at
3 watts. I use an external soundcard (ASUS Xonar U7) and the laptop is an
HP Spectre running Win10 and DXLab suite. Rig control and the sound card
run off a USB hub. Antenna is a 160 meter OCF and I was on 40 meters.

The last QSO was with Eric KB3CNK. He's a few hundred miles from me. He
reported my signal was strong but that he saw some harmonics or splatter on
his waterfall.

I immediately backed down on the audio a little bit (5th bar flickering to
4th bar flickering) but he said it made no difference. My next thought is
some RF getting back into the audio which, with an OCF, wouldn't be unheard
of. I wasn't looking forward to tracking that down. I've got puka beads at
the feed and rig ends of the coax.

Then I noticed my internal battery voltage was down to 8.8V key down. I put
on the external battery which brought it up to 12.1V key down and he said
the signal looked beautiful (still 4th bar flickering).

The panic subsided. I'll need to be a little more aware of my battery
voltage in the future. Viva la simple fixes.




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[Elecraft] KX3: Scuff marks on display cover

[Nick Kennedy]

I’ve got some scuff / scratch marks on my KX3 display’s cover. (Yes, shame on 
me!)

Is there any kind of buffing or cleaning agent that can fix this? Or would it 
be better to order a replacement from Elecraft?

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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[Elecraft] KX3 PSK-31 IMD on Low Batteries

[Kevin - K4VD]

I probably should have expected this and took action before anyone had to
mention it.

I was using a KX3 on internal battery. I was running PSK-31 using DATA-A at
3 watts. I use an external soundcard (ASUS Xonar U7) and the laptop is an
HP Spectre running Win10 and DXLab suite. Rig control and the sound card
run off a USB hub. Antenna is a 160 meter OCF and I was on 40 meters.

The last QSO was with Eric KB3CNK. He's a few hundred miles from me. He
reported my signal was strong but that he saw some harmonics or splatter on
his waterfall.

I immediately backed down on the audio a little bit (5th bar flickering to
4th bar flickering) but he said it made no difference. My next thought is
some RF getting back into the audio which, with an OCF, wouldn't be unheard
of. I wasn't looking forward to tracking that down. I've got puka beads at
the feed and rig ends of the coax.

Then I noticed my internal battery voltage was down to 8.8V key down. I put
on the external battery which brought it up to 12.1V key down and he said
the signal looked beautiful (still 4th bar flickering).

The panic subsided. I'll need to be a little more aware of my battery
voltage in the future. Viva la simple fixes.

73,
Kevin K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Cleaning is a temporary fix.  Changing to the gold pins is a permanent 
solution.


You could try just removing the front panel and putting it back on.  The 
wiping action that results will clean oxidation from the pins.
Do that as a temporary fix.  The real fix is to change to the gold pin 
connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2016 10:06 AM, Mike Willis wrote:

Thanks - makes sense. Presumably tarnishing. Couldn't I just clean them?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Bret,

To use two TX capable antennas, you connect the subRX AUX antenna 
connection to the TMP connector on the KAT3, and set the K3 KRX3 menu to 
"ANT=ATU".  The non-transmit antenna will be used by the subRX whenever 
you set the subRX antenna to AUX.


If you want to use a low noise receive antenna, you would connect that 
antenna to the BNC jack, but you need to physically connect the TMP 
cable from that BNC jack to the subRX AUX TMP connector.


A very clever installation was shown to me by Guy K2AV.  Guy has both 
receive antennas and multiple TX antennas that he uses for diversity 
receive, and changing the internal TMP cables is certainly not something 
he wants to do frequently.

Note - K2AV does not have the K144XV installed in his K3.
So Guy put the fan panel for the K144XV on his K3 (Elecraft p/n E100288 
for a K3/100, p/n E100215 for a K3/10) and installed the K144 TMP-BNC 
cable assembly (Elecraft p/n E850378) between the TMP connector on the 
KAT3 and the BNC jack hole in the fan panel.  Of course that TMP-BNC 
cable is too long for the distance, but it can be rolled up and secured 
with a ty-wrap.

The normal subRX BNC to Sub AUX cable is in place.

To operate from a receiving antenna, the antenna is connected normally 
to the BNC jack for the subRX AUX antenna, and the K3 KRX3 menu is set 
to "ANT=BNC" and the subRX antenna is set to AUX.
To operate using the non-transmit antenna, connect a short BNC to BNC 
jumper between the AUX ANT BNC and the added BNC jack in the fan panel, 
then set the K3 KRX3 menu to ANT=ATU and set the subRX antenna to AUX.


If you make that change between the non-transmit antenna and a receiving 
antenna frequently, an antenna switch between the BNC connectors and a 
couple of K3 macros would make the changes easily.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/9/2016 8:17 AM, MaverickNH wrote:

My factory-built K3S with KAT3A ATU and KRX3A SubRX was assembled in default
configuration, with the SubRx antenna connected to AUX RF-bnc. I might
switch the SubRx to the KAT3A some day, as both antennas are TX, but am
trying to set up for Diversity Rx now and having problems.

I have two TX antennas - a 102ft G5RV ~40ft up N-S and a 43ft Vertical ~75ft
away, both with remote ATUs at base. With G5RV on ANT1 and 43Vert on ANT2,
all works fine.

For Diversity RX, since the SubRX connects the AUX RX-bnc, I've tried moving
the 43Vert over to the AUX RF IN bnc jack. CONFIG KRX3 is set to Ant=bnc.

I'm not quite sure which buttons to select to get Diversity mode working.
With ANT set to ANT1, I select DIV (long-press SUB) and see SUB on display
between VFOA & VFOB and decimal blinking, but hear only in my left ear.

What might I be missing?

Thanks, 73s,

BRET/KC1CJN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[James Balls]

Turn off sp+phone

Make sure spkrs = 1

Make sure volume and rf gain for sub RX are set

Done

Sent from BlueMail



On 9 Aug 2016, 14:33, at 14:33, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
>Bret,
>
>The aftermarket K3s book by KE7X covers the matter ... and many others
>...
>nicely.  See the Elecraft web page for information.
>
>73
>
>Ken - K0PP
>
>On Aug 9, 2016 06:19, "MaverickNH"  wrote:
>
>> My factory-built K3S with KAT3A ATU and KRX3A SubRX was assembled in
>> default
>> configuration, with the SubRx antenna connected to AUX RF-bnc. I
>might
>> switch the SubRx to the KAT3A some day, as both antennas are TX, but
>am
>> trying to set up for Diversity Rx now and having problems.
>>
>> I have two TX antennas - a 102ft G5RV ~40ft up N-S and a 43ft
>Vertical
>> ~75ft
>> away, both with remote ATUs at base. With G5RV on ANT1 and 43Vert on
>ANT2,
>> all works fine.
>>
>> For Diversity RX, since the SubRX connects the AUX RX-bnc, I've tried
>> moving
>> the 43Vert over to the AUX RF IN bnc jack. CONFIG KRX3 is set to
>Ant=bnc.
>>
>> I'm not quite sure which buttons to select to get Diversity mode
>working.
>> With ANT set to ANT1, I select DIV (long-press SUB) and see SUB on
>display
>> between VFOA & VFOB and decimal blinking, but hear only in my left
>ear.
>>
>> What might I be missing?
>>
>> Thanks, 73s,
>>
>> BRET/KC1CJN
>>
>>
>>
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>> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
>> nabble.com/K3S-Diversity-Setup-Question-tp7621411.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

[Mark E. Musick]

Mike,
Your problem is most likely the front panel connectors. This is a known
problem for early K3s. Early K3s had tin connectors between the front panel
and RF board. Elecraft switched to gold connectors around serial #4000. I
just had my serial #3505 in for upgrades and they switched the connectors
while they had it.
You can contact Elecraft and they will send you the gold connectors for you
to switch out yourself or send the radio back to Elecraft and they will
change them for you if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of AD6XY
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 12:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

I have a fairly elderly K3, SN500s. I have noticed recently that
occasionally when I hit the band up switch the mode changes but the band
doesn't. Seems to be getting more frequent. Is this a common problem and is
there a fix?

Mike



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Re: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

[Mike Willis]

Thanks - makes sense. Presumably tarnishing. Couldn't I just clean them? 

-Original Message-
From: Mark E. Musick [mailto:markmus...@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 3:05 PM
To: 'AD6XY' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

Mike,
Your problem is most likely the front panel connectors. This is a known
problem for early K3s. Early K3s had tin connectors between the front panel
and RF board. Elecraft switched to gold connectors around serial #4000. I
just had my serial #3505 in for upgrades and they switched the connectors
while they had it.
You can contact Elecraft and they will send you the gold connectors for you
to switch out yourself or send the radio back to Elecraft and they will
change them for you if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of AD6XY
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 12:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

I have a fairly elderly K3, SN500s. I have noticed recently that
occasionally when I hit the band up switch the mode changes but the band
doesn't. Seems to be getting more frequent. Is this a common problem and is
there a fix?

Mike



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Can K144XV output be limited ot 5 watts?-IGNORE

[mike]

Never mind I found it. 73  ..mike  AI6II



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[Mark E. Musick]

Bret,
You have to switch the sub-receiver from the main antenna to the aux
antenna.
To do that go to BSET and press the ANT button. That will show which antenna
the sub is on. It should say MAIN. Press ANT again and it should say AUX.
Press BSET again to return to the VFO A display.

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
MaverickNH
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2016 12:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

My factory-built K3S with KAT3A ATU and KRX3A SubRX was assembled in default
configuration, with the SubRx antenna connected to AUX RF-bnc. I might
switch the SubRx to the KAT3A some day, as both antennas are TX, but am
trying to set up for Diversity Rx now and having problems.

I have two TX antennas - a 102ft G5RV ~40ft up N-S and a 43ft Vertical ~75ft
away, both with remote ATUs at base. With G5RV on ANT1 and 43Vert on ANT2,
all works fine.

For Diversity RX, since the SubRX connects the AUX RX-bnc, I've tried moving
the 43Vert over to the AUX RF IN bnc jack. CONFIG KRX3 is set to Ant=bnc.

I'm not quite sure which buttons to select to get Diversity mode working.
With ANT set to ANT1, I select DIV (long-press SUB) and see SUB on display
between VFOA & VFOB and decimal blinking, but hear only in my left ear.

What might I be missing?

Thanks, 73s,

BRET/KC1CJN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[Ken G Kopp]

Bret,

The aftermarket K3s book by KE7X covers the matter ... and many others ...
nicely.  See the Elecraft web page for information.

73

Ken - K0PP

On Aug 9, 2016 06:19, "MaverickNH"  wrote:

> My factory-built K3S with KAT3A ATU and KRX3A SubRX was assembled in
> default
> configuration, with the SubRx antenna connected to AUX RF-bnc. I might
> switch the SubRx to the KAT3A some day, as both antennas are TX, but am
> trying to set up for Diversity Rx now and having problems.
>
> I have two TX antennas - a 102ft G5RV ~40ft up N-S and a 43ft Vertical
> ~75ft
> away, both with remote ATUs at base. With G5RV on ANT1 and 43Vert on ANT2,
> all works fine.
>
> For Diversity RX, since the SubRX connects the AUX RX-bnc, I've tried
> moving
> the 43Vert over to the AUX RF IN bnc jack. CONFIG KRX3 is set to Ant=bnc.
>
> I'm not quite sure which buttons to select to get Diversity mode working.
> With ANT set to ANT1, I select DIV (long-press SUB) and see SUB on display
> between VFOA & VFOB and decimal blinking, but hear only in my left ear.
>
> What might I be missing?
>
> Thanks, 73s,
>
> BRET/KC1CJN
>
>
>
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> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/K3S-Diversity-Setup-Question-tp7621411.html
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO3 boards wanted--redux

[Jan Ditzian]

Barry,

Main computer works.  Netbook works.  Main computer uses USB wifi, so I 
would not be looking at the reflector if USB were broken. Netbook has 
full function, including USB devices.


73,
Jan, KX2A

On 8/9/2016 3:58 AM, Barry Simpson wrote:

Hi Jan

Are you sure that your computer is not fried ?

Barry  VK2BJ


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[Elecraft] Unexpected Band / Mode switching

[AD6XY]

I have a fairly elderly K3, SN500s. I have noticed recently that occasionally
when I hit the band up switch the mode changes but the band doesn't. Seems
to be getting more frequent. Is this a common problem and is there a fix?

Mike



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[Elecraft] K3S Diversity Setup Question

[MaverickNH]

My factory-built K3S with KAT3A ATU and KRX3A SubRX was assembled in default
configuration, with the SubRx antenna connected to AUX RF-bnc. I might
switch the SubRx to the KAT3A some day, as both antennas are TX, but am
trying to set up for Diversity Rx now and having problems.

I have two TX antennas - a 102ft G5RV ~40ft up N-S and a 43ft Vertical ~75ft
away, both with remote ATUs at base. With G5RV on ANT1 and 43Vert on ANT2,
all works fine.

For Diversity RX, since the SubRX connects the AUX RX-bnc, I've tried moving
the 43Vert over to the AUX RF IN bnc jack. CONFIG KRX3 is set to Ant=bnc.

I'm not quite sure which buttons to select to get Diversity mode working.
With ANT set to ANT1, I select DIV (long-press SUB) and see SUB on display
between VFOA & VFOB and decimal blinking, but hear only in my left ear.

What might I be missing?

Thanks, 73s,

BRET/KC1CJN



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Re: [Elecraft] FS: LP-Pan 2 kit, partially built

[Julius Fazekas n2wn via Elecraft]

This has been sold thanks.



-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2#4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3/100 
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