Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 code oscillator

2016-11-21 Thread W1GO (Joe)
Al,

Quick follow-up on the KPA500 with the very loud buzzing transformer … after 
hours of disassembling, reassembling, tightening, etc., I couldn’t correct the 
problem and sent the unit back to the mother ship.  The transformer had a 
problem and was replaced.  I have heard from others that they were similarly 
told of a problem with transformers that would require replacement.  My unit is 
now wonderfully quiet.

My unit was a kit, but it makes me wonder if the “burn-in” of assembled units 
is simply an idle current test or if the unit it tested under load at different 
modes; my unit was quiet on SSB but ferociously loud on CW (even at 5W drive). 
It seems that would be pretty easy to detect in an assembled unit; kits are a 
whole other story.

In any event, aside for the $80+ it cost me to ship the unit back, all is well 
… and quiet.

Joe W1GO

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 5:46 PM, W1GO (Joe)  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Finished assembly of KPA500 and a little surprised at the magnitude of hum / 
> buzz during CW (no real issue on SSB); I've read about it but was surprised 
> at just how pronounced it is.   I could use the KPA500 as a code oscillator 
> for practice; no need to keep monitor turned on.  I've read most of the 
> historical dialogue regarding methods to minimize "the buzz": use yellow wire 
> tap, keep wires from touching chassis, make sure everything (including 
> transformer) is good and tight, etc.  all those things are done with little 
> positive impact.  I'm running off well regulated 240 VAC.
> 
> I just wonder if anyone has any other "secrets" they might share.  My code 
> proficiency is not great, at this point, and having the KPA500 groan in 
> response to my keying is somewhat distracting; even with headphones when 
> monitor is turned up higher than usual.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Joe
> W1GO
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[Elecraft] K3 FS

2016-11-21 Thread M. via Elecraft
K3/100s/n 7148KBPF3KIO3KXV3KNB32.7 kHz and 400 Hz filters(No tuner, original 
synthesizer)

$1800split shipping
73, Mike N4GU
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Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??

2016-11-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fabio,

It is good to hear that you were successful.

Sometimes you have to whittle down the toothpick, but with the thin 
"squarish" ones ones they usually work out-of-the box.


I am gald to hear you had success with the SS needle.  The only problem 
with the metallic needle is that it heats and can burn your fingers if 
you do not take precautions.


I use stainless steel needles fashioned from the ground down shafts of 
dental tools for that purpose.  They are often found at hamfests here in 
the US.  But then I work mostly on the K2 where that procedure is often 
required.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 6:58 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Thanks guys,
   I finally made it. I had to use needles and to heat the pad and the 
needle itself. The toothpick was too big to be used (maybe we have big 
teeth in Italy?)


Thank you very much for the replies! I was feeling stupid but, hey, I 
wanted that mod done!! :)


Ciao,
 Fabio
 IZ4AFW

Il 21.11.2016 23:46, Don Wilhelm ha scritto:

Fabio,

To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the
solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or
a stainless steel needle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
  I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on
the main board of my K3.
As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the 
two

old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick.

But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a
different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining
solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I
tried with some solder wick but to no avail.
In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any 
tool

that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with
my soldering iron.
I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing 
them
through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a 
minimum

force.




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Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??

2016-11-21 Thread Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W

Thanks guys,
   I finally made it. I had to use needles and to heat the pad and the 
needle itself. The toothpick was too big to be used (maybe we have big 
teeth in Italy?)


Thank you very much for the replies! I was feeling stupid but, hey, I 
wanted that mod done!! :)


Ciao,
 Fabio
 IZ4AFW

Il 21.11.2016 23:46, Don Wilhelm ha scritto:

Fabio,

To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the
solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or
a stainless steel needle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
  I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on
the main board of my K3.
As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two
old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick.

But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a
different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining
solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I
tried with some solder wick but to no avail.
In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool
that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with
my soldering iron.
I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them
through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum
force.

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Re: [Elecraft] Needed old style KIO3 board

2016-11-21 Thread brian

Guys,
Thanks. Got one.
73 de Brian/K3KO

On 11/21/2016 4:39 AM, brian wrote:

Perhaps some K3 owner who upgraded to the new board has one.
Apparently killed the band data output on mine.

73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??

2016-11-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fabio,

To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the 
solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or 
a stainless steel needle.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Hi guys,
  I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on
the main board of my K3.
As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two
old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick.

But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a
different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining
solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I
tried with some solder wick but to no avail.
In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool
that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with
my soldering iron.
I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them
through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum
force.

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Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??

2016-11-21 Thread GRANT YOUNGMAN
Heat the thru-holes from one side of the board, and use a solder sucker from 
the opposite side.  Wick alone won’t clean these things out very well.

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342


> On Nov 21, 2016, at 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W  wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
>  I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main 
> board of my K3.
> As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old 
> electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick.
> 
> But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different 
> matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the 
> pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder 
> wick but to no avail.
> In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that 
> I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my 
> soldering iron.
> I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them 
> through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum 
> force.
> 
> Did anyone of you already perform this upgrade? Any tips for me? :)
> 
> 




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[Elecraft] K-Pod MCU 1.09 'F3 Power Up' Question

2016-11-21 Thread Marty Koszewski
I installed the latest K-Pod firmware - MCU 1.09.   The release notes state 
"Adds a power-on feature: if the F3 button is held during power up the K-Pod 
encoder uses a divide by 4 scaling factor.”I do not notice any difference 
when powering up holding the F3 button.

What is the ‘F3’ power-up supposed to do?  I thought it might address the 4X 
VFO knob speed difference between the K3 and the K-Pod (my K3s VFO is still 4X 
faster than the K-Pod).

Thanks.

Marty - N1VH


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[Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??

2016-11-21 Thread Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W

Hi guys,
  I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on 
the main board of my K3.
As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two 
old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick.


But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a 
different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining 
solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I 
tried with some solder wick but to no avail.
In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool 
that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with 
my soldering iron.
I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them 
through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum 
force.


Did anyone of you already perform this upgrade? Any tips for me? :)

Thanks, 73
 Fabio
 IZ4AFW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and ICOM IC-2KL

2016-11-21 Thread German Duran
Hi Christian. I'm using the 2KL with my Elecraft K3s and works well. But it
does not work automatically. When I change the band on the Elecraft I have
to change the band manually on the AT500 and 2 KL because the AT500 and 2KL
does it automatically. I think with the 2KL it is easy to change
automatically because they changes with voltage and not with codes like
Icom and Kenwood amplifiers that change with codes and not with voltages. I
am neither an electronic engineer nor a technician. I am a doctor and it is
difficult for me to modify the 2KL. I keep waiting for your news to see if
you can automatically change the bands in 2KL with your modifications. 73,
German

El lun., 21 nov. 2016 2:18 p. m., C G  escribió:

> Hi German,
>
> Today the second-hand 2KL+2KLPS+AT500 arrived by post. Am under way
> cleaning and checking the whole set. Later on, must check ALC's
> compatibility.
>
> Now, have to build:
> - a balun, because my sole present antenna is a Levy a.k.a. Zepp with a
> 300 ohms symmetrical feeder,
> - a PA driver, as the 2KL is supposed to be driven by around 80 W, and my
> K3s is a 10W version. Found some hackable PCB's on epay, adaptable to use
> my stock power FET's.
> - an automatic band switch interface, as the K3s outputs BCD, where the
> 2KL/AT500 are voltage driven. Already mounted a BCD decoder kit that I most
> probably will link to the 2KL A/D converter ***outputs*** for reliability
> reasons, by means of a diode matrix (+ DIL switches for configuration of
> various antennae including multiband.)
>
> Do you have issues with your Elecraft + Icom configuration?
>
> Christian F1GWR
>
> Le 16 nov. 2016 à 05:26, German Duran a écrit :
>
> Hello Christian: It gives me great joy to know that someone has the same
> concern about combining the K3s with the 2KL and the AT 500. I will be very
> attentive to any communication from you about it. Merci beacoup. German HK3J
>
> El mar., 15 nov. 2016 8:22 p. m., f1gwr  escribió:
>
> Just under way buying one 2KL+PS+AT500. Expect to find some way to control
> them with my K3s.
> Will let you know if this is your concern.
> 73
> Christian F1GWR
>
> Le 23 oct. 2016 à 05:18, German Duran a écrit :
>
> > Someone works the K3s with the ICOM IC-2KL amplifier?
> > Best regards for all.
> > German HK3J
> > __
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>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and ICOM IC-2KL

2016-11-21 Thread C G
Hi German,

Today the second-hand 2KL+2KLPS+AT500 arrived by post. Am under way cleaning 
and checking the whole set. Later on, must check ALC's compatibility.

Now, have to build:
- a balun, because my sole present antenna is a Levy a.k.a. Zepp with a 300 
ohms symmetrical feeder,
- a PA driver, as the 2KL is supposed to be driven by around 80 W, and my K3s 
is a 10W version. Found some hackable PCB's on epay, adaptable to use my stock 
power FET's.
- an automatic band switch interface, as the K3s outputs BCD, where the 
2KL/AT500 are voltage driven. Already mounted a BCD decoder kit that I most 
probably will link to the 2KL A/D converter **outputs** for reliability 
reasons, by means of a diode matrix (+ DIL switches for configuration of 
various antennae including multiband.)

Do you have issues with your Elecraft + Icom configuration?

Christian F1GWR

Le 16 nov. 2016 à 05:26, German Duran a écrit :

> Hello Christian: It gives me great joy to know that someone has the same 
> concern about combining the K3s with the 2KL and the AT 500. I will be very 
> attentive to any communication from you about it. Merci beacoup. German HK3J
> 
> 
> El mar., 15 nov. 2016 8:22 p. m., f1gwr  escribió:
> Just under way buying one 2KL+PS+AT500. Expect to find some way to control 
> them with my K3s.
> Will let you know if this is your concern.
> 73
> Christian F1GWR
> 
> Le 23 oct. 2016 à 05:18, German Duran a écrit :
> 
> > Someone works the K3s with the ICOM IC-2KL amplifier?
> > Best regards for all.
> > German HK3J
> > __
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> 

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[Elecraft] OT: FS: YouKits DP-1 QRP Power & SWR meter

2016-11-21 Thread Jim Sheldon
I have an older YouKits DP-1 QRP Power & SWR meter - reads from 
5milliwatts to 25 watts in 2 ranges. Frequency range is 1-60 MHz with a 
specified accuracy of 5 percent. Their exclusive US distributor, 
Vibroplex, is selling these for $149 plus shipping. The new ones have an 
internal Lithium Ion rechargable battery. This one came without the 
battery/charger and Vibroplex will not sell just the battery/charger 
separately (at least as of my last call to them) and you cannot get it 
from YouKits directly. It can be powered through the coaxial power jack 
by any 8-15 volt source (center pin is positive) and most 9-12 volt wall 
warts power it just fine. I'm including a 9 volt 300 ma wall ward with 
the unit.  The operating instructions can be downloaded from the 
www.vibroplex.com website but a printed copy will be included.


I'm asking $85 shipped anywhere in the US for this one. (I can't ship it 
internationally as it would be cost prohibitive.)  Cosmetically it's a 9 
out of 10 (they misspelled the word CHARGE when they silk screened the 
lettering on the front panel - spelled it CHAGE).


Pictures of it available by email on request.

PayPal (preferred) or USPS Money Order.

Please reply off list to w...@cox.net and first "I'll take it" gets 
rights of first refusal as usual.


Jim - W0EB
Park City, KS

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[Elecraft] Design suggestion for Elecraft designers

2016-11-21 Thread Rick Stealey
It would make it s much easier on us when troubleshooting a power 
distribution issue if we could verify whether the voltage regulator itself or 
the load is the problem.  All you would have to do is put a tiny jumper on the 
output of the regulator.  Then we could snip it and see if the regulator is 
still putting out proper voltage and also look towards the circuit for a short. 
 An insignificant cost that would make it unnecessary to have to cut a land on 
the board.

Wayne, Old Buddy, what say ?


Rick  K2XT
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Jerry
Thank you both for your help. The problem is solved.

Normally (about 98% of the time), LP-Bridge sits (software wise) between the
K3 comport and the N1MM program. During contests, since there is a
significant slow down with that arrangement when I attempt to use the
CATASC1 SWT21 commands, I close the LP-Bridge program and go direct from
N1MM to K3. Now since the setting for the comport in N1MM has the RTS set to
always on and there is no "buffer" between the K3 and the N1MM program, we
now have the conditions previously described. Setting the RTS to always off
in the N1MM solves the problem. 

This situation exemplifies my military training and experience in planning
"as too many moving parts" to the problem and solution.

Radio, LP-Bridge, N1MM program and Time.

My very best regards to you both.

Jerry, W1IE



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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jerry,

That connection to pin 8 of the AUX I/O is most likely the problem.
I don't know how you have implemented it, but it should not be held low 
constantly.  See Remote Power On in the manual.


Also be aware that when the computer boots, it will "exercise" the pins 
of the RS-232 ports, causing the signal to ground AUX I/O pin 8 to 
become active. That too may be part of the problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 10:19 AM, Jerry wrote:

I will do that. I do have pin 8 shorted to ground through another rs-232
port and that is for my remoting my K3 as a remote. I use the K3/0 mini a
lot when I travel and other people do also. I will look at the pin 8
arrangement.

Jerry

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 10:05 AM
To: Guy Olinger K2AV; Jerry; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

Jerry and Guy,

The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something
"extra" happening, but something that does not work.

I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a
dummy load.  Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles or
key in one at a time to make checks on them.
Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves
normally.
Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens.

I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable -
shorting pin 8 to ground.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:


I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the
pin problem to him.

What's the serial number on your K3?

73, Guy K2AV





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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Jerry
I will do that. I do have pin 8 shorted to ground through another rs-232
port and that is for my remoting my K3 as a remote. I use the K3/0 mini a
lot when I travel and other people do also. I will look at the pin 8
arrangement. 

Jerry

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 10:05 AM
To: Guy Olinger K2AV; Jerry; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

Jerry and Guy,

The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something
"extra" happening, but something that does not work.

I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a
dummy load.  Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles or
key in one at a time to make checks on them.
Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves
normally.
Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens.

I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable -
shorting pin 8 to ground.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

>
> I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the 
> pin problem to him.
>
> What's the serial number on your K3?
>
> 73, Guy K2AV
>

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jerry and Guy,

The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something 
"extra" happening, but something that does not work.


I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a 
dummy load.  Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles 
or key in one at a time to make checks on them.
Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves 
normally.

Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens.

I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable - 
shorting pin 8 to ground.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:



I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the pin
problem to him.

What's the serial number on your K3?

73, Guy K2AV


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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Hi Jerry,

Sometimes when one sees a pile of weird inexplicable happenings that don't
make any sense at all, one must stand back, look at the forest instead of
the trees, and say I've got the the weird inexplicable multi problem
syndrome, otherwise known as "the wimps".

The problem with not knowing you've got the wimps is the attempt to fix the
symptoms one by one, which can't work.

There are some well known wimps causes. RFI in the shack is a great one.
Problems with third party programs another. Another, if your K3 is old
enough, is the "pin problem" that needs the replacement with gold pins
thing done.

I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the pin
problem to him.

What's the serial number on your K3?

73, Guy K2AV

On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 8:50 AM Jerry  wrote:

> Good morning all,
>
>
>
> I have been having this problem for about the last three weeks. Erratic
> behavior with my K3; such as when I attempted to turn off the K3, it would
> remove sound, xmit and the data on the front panel.  The panel would stay
> lit with the amber backlight, but there would be just a blank screen. To
> reset the radio back to being "all off", I would disconnect the power, wait
> a respectable 10 seconds and then when I turn it on and all was well until
> I
> tried to turn it off again, resulting in the same previous condition. I was
> on the verge of sending the rig back home to California after the winter
> contests , when I notice something during  yesterdays SSB contest.
>
>
>
> I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would
> behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable  and the
> radio
> would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program.  It seems I would
> have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so.  So one time, I
> had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on
> the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer
> board).
> I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3
> problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when
> N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected.
>
>
>
> My question is,after this long ramble,  before I submit this to the N1MM
> team, has anyone else experienced this type of behavior in the relationship
> of N1MM and the K3?
>
>
>
> Best regards,
>
>
>
> Jerry, W1IE
>
>
>
> (BTW I did get a "Sweep" on the contest. I don't think it would have happen
> if I did not have the K3.)
>
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jerry,

You must have something else going on there.

Check the PSn command in the K3 Programmer's Reference and you should 
see that the command can turn the K3 power OFF, but when off, the K3 
(and its RS-232 port) is not powered, so the K3 cannot be powered ON via 
an RS-232 command.


The K3 CAN be powered on by an external device pulling the AUX I/O 
connector pin 8 to ground, but not via the RS-232 connection.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2016 8:48 AM, Jerry wrote:



I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would
behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable  and the radio
would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program.  It seems I would
have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so.  So one time, I
had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on
the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer board).
I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3
problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when
N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected.


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[Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated

2016-11-21 Thread Jerry
Good morning all,

 

I have been having this problem for about the last three weeks. Erratic
behavior with my K3; such as when I attempted to turn off the K3, it would
remove sound, xmit and the data on the front panel.  The panel would stay
lit with the amber backlight, but there would be just a blank screen. To
reset the radio back to being "all off", I would disconnect the power, wait
a respectable 10 seconds and then when I turn it on and all was well until I
tried to turn it off again, resulting in the same previous condition. I was
on the verge of sending the rig back home to California after the winter
contests , when I notice something during  yesterdays SSB contest.

 

I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would
behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable  and the radio
would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program.  It seems I would
have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so.  So one time, I
had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on
the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer board).
I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3
problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when
N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected.

 

My question is,after this long ramble,  before I submit this to the N1MM
team, has anyone else experienced this type of behavior in the relationship
of N1MM and the K3?

 

Best regards,

 

Jerry, W1IE

 

(BTW I did get a "Sweep" on the contest. I don't think it would have happen
if I did not have the K3.)

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Re: [Elecraft] Keyboards for P3/SVGA

2016-11-21 Thread Charles R.Tropp via Elecraft
This is small and inexpensive: 
Boxcave 78 Key Wired USB Mini Slim Keyboard 

You can find it on Amazon for $19.00. Anything similar would work just as well. 
I agree with the others. Stay away from elaborate keyboards that have USB ports 
or other bells and whistles.   

73, Charles N2SO
Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc. http://QCWA.org 

On Sunday, November 20, 2016 8:45 PM, Phil Wheeler  
wrote:
 

 
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