Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 code oscillator
Al, Quick follow-up on the KPA500 with the very loud buzzing transformer … after hours of disassembling, reassembling, tightening, etc., I couldn’t correct the problem and sent the unit back to the mother ship. The transformer had a problem and was replaced. I have heard from others that they were similarly told of a problem with transformers that would require replacement. My unit is now wonderfully quiet. My unit was a kit, but it makes me wonder if the “burn-in” of assembled units is simply an idle current test or if the unit it tested under load at different modes; my unit was quiet on SSB but ferociously loud on CW (even at 5W drive). It seems that would be pretty easy to detect in an assembled unit; kits are a whole other story. In any event, aside for the $80+ it cost me to ship the unit back, all is well … and quiet. Joe W1GO > On Oct 23, 2016, at 5:46 PM, W1GO (Joe) wrote: > > > Hi all, > > Finished assembly of KPA500 and a little surprised at the magnitude of hum / > buzz during CW (no real issue on SSB); I've read about it but was surprised > at just how pronounced it is. I could use the KPA500 as a code oscillator > for practice; no need to keep monitor turned on. I've read most of the > historical dialogue regarding methods to minimize "the buzz": use yellow wire > tap, keep wires from touching chassis, make sure everything (including > transformer) is good and tight, etc. all those things are done with little > positive impact. I'm running off well regulated 240 VAC. > > I just wonder if anyone has any other "secrets" they might share. My code > proficiency is not great, at this point, and having the KPA500 groan in > response to my keying is somewhat distracting; even with headphones when > monitor is turned up higher than usual. > > Best regards, > > Joe > W1GO > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to w...@icloud.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 FS
K3/100s/n 7148KBPF3KIO3KXV3KNB32.7 kHz and 400 Hz filters(No tuner, original synthesizer) $1800split shipping 73, Mike N4GU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??
Fabio, It is good to hear that you were successful. Sometimes you have to whittle down the toothpick, but with the thin "squarish" ones ones they usually work out-of-the box. I am gald to hear you had success with the SS needle. The only problem with the metallic needle is that it heats and can burn your fingers if you do not take precautions. I use stainless steel needles fashioned from the ground down shafts of dental tools for that purpose. They are often found at hamfests here in the US. But then I work mostly on the K2 where that procedure is often required. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 6:58 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote: Thanks guys, I finally made it. I had to use needles and to heat the pad and the needle itself. The toothpick was too big to be used (maybe we have big teeth in Italy?) Thank you very much for the replies! I was feeling stupid but, hey, I wanted that mod done!! :) Ciao, Fabio IZ4AFW Il 21.11.2016 23:46, Don Wilhelm ha scritto: Fabio, To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel needle. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote: Hi guys, I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main board of my K3. As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick. But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder wick but to no avail. In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my soldering iron. I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum force. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??
Thanks guys, I finally made it. I had to use needles and to heat the pad and the needle itself. The toothpick was too big to be used (maybe we have big teeth in Italy?) Thank you very much for the replies! I was feeling stupid but, hey, I wanted that mod done!! :) Ciao, Fabio IZ4AFW Il 21.11.2016 23:46, Don Wilhelm ha scritto: Fabio, To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel needle. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote: Hi guys, I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main board of my K3. As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick. But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder wick but to no avail. In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my soldering iron. I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum force. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Needed old style KIO3 board
Guys, Thanks. Got one. 73 de Brian/K3KO On 11/21/2016 4:39 AM, brian wrote: Perhaps some K3 owner who upgraded to the new board has one. Apparently killed the band data output on mine. 73 de Brian/K3KO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to als...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??
Fabio, To open the thru-plated holes after you have used solder wick, heat the solder pads and push out the remaining solder with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel needle. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote: Hi guys, I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main board of my K3. As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick. But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder wick but to no avail. In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my soldering iron. I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum force. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??
Heat the thru-holes from one side of the board, and use a solder sucker from the opposite side. Wick alone won’t clean these things out very well. Grant NQ5T K3 #2091, KX3 #8342 > On Nov 21, 2016, at 5:06 PM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote: > > Hi guys, > I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main > board of my K3. > As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old > electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick. > > But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different > matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the > pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder > wick but to no avail. > In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that > I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my > soldering iron. > I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them > through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum > force. > > Did anyone of you already perform this upgrade? Any tips for me? :) > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K-Pod MCU 1.09 'F3 Power Up' Question
I installed the latest K-Pod firmware - MCU 1.09. The release notes state "Adds a power-on feature: if the F3 button is held during power up the K-Pod encoder uses a divide by 4 scaling factor.”I do not notice any difference when powering up holding the F3 button. What is the ‘F3’ power-up supposed to do? I thought it might address the 4X VFO knob speed difference between the K3 and the K-Pod (my K3s VFO is still 4X faster than the K-Pod). Thanks. Marty - N1VH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT ??
Hi guys, I'm having some tough time installing the K3AUDPROTMDKT assembly on the main board of my K3. As for every upgrade, I am following the instructions. I removed the two old electrolytic caps in a few seconds, it was easy and quick. But installing the new tiny board, as easy as it seems, is just a different matter. I was able to remove almost all of the remaining solder, but the pass-thru holes just remain closed with some solder. I tried with some solder wick but to no avail. In addition, the pass-thru holes are so small that I don't have any tool that I can use to try to open those holes while heating the board with my soldering iron. I tried to align the 4 legs of the assembly but -of course- pushing them through the holes is not easy, as they bend as soon as I apply a minimum force. Did anyone of you already perform this upgrade? Any tips for me? :) Thanks, 73 Fabio IZ4AFW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3s and ICOM IC-2KL
Hi Christian. I'm using the 2KL with my Elecraft K3s and works well. But it does not work automatically. When I change the band on the Elecraft I have to change the band manually on the AT500 and 2 KL because the AT500 and 2KL does it automatically. I think with the 2KL it is easy to change automatically because they changes with voltage and not with codes like Icom and Kenwood amplifiers that change with codes and not with voltages. I am neither an electronic engineer nor a technician. I am a doctor and it is difficult for me to modify the 2KL. I keep waiting for your news to see if you can automatically change the bands in 2KL with your modifications. 73, German El lun., 21 nov. 2016 2:18 p. m., C G escribió: > Hi German, > > Today the second-hand 2KL+2KLPS+AT500 arrived by post. Am under way > cleaning and checking the whole set. Later on, must check ALC's > compatibility. > > Now, have to build: > - a balun, because my sole present antenna is a Levy a.k.a. Zepp with a > 300 ohms symmetrical feeder, > - a PA driver, as the 2KL is supposed to be driven by around 80 W, and my > K3s is a 10W version. Found some hackable PCB's on epay, adaptable to use > my stock power FET's. > - an automatic band switch interface, as the K3s outputs BCD, where the > 2KL/AT500 are voltage driven. Already mounted a BCD decoder kit that I most > probably will link to the 2KL A/D converter ***outputs*** for reliability > reasons, by means of a diode matrix (+ DIL switches for configuration of > various antennae including multiband.) > > Do you have issues with your Elecraft + Icom configuration? > > Christian F1GWR > > Le 16 nov. 2016 à 05:26, German Duran a écrit : > > Hello Christian: It gives me great joy to know that someone has the same > concern about combining the K3s with the 2KL and the AT 500. I will be very > attentive to any communication from you about it. Merci beacoup. German HK3J > > El mar., 15 nov. 2016 8:22 p. m., f1gwr escribió: > > Just under way buying one 2KL+PS+AT500. Expect to find some way to control > them with my K3s. > Will let you know if this is your concern. > 73 > Christian F1GWR > > Le 23 oct. 2016 à 05:18, German Duran a écrit : > > > Someone works the K3s with the ICOM IC-2KL amplifier? > > Best regards for all. > > German HK3J > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to f1...@free.fr > > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3s and ICOM IC-2KL
Hi German, Today the second-hand 2KL+2KLPS+AT500 arrived by post. Am under way cleaning and checking the whole set. Later on, must check ALC's compatibility. Now, have to build: - a balun, because my sole present antenna is a Levy a.k.a. Zepp with a 300 ohms symmetrical feeder, - a PA driver, as the 2KL is supposed to be driven by around 80 W, and my K3s is a 10W version. Found some hackable PCB's on epay, adaptable to use my stock power FET's. - an automatic band switch interface, as the K3s outputs BCD, where the 2KL/AT500 are voltage driven. Already mounted a BCD decoder kit that I most probably will link to the 2KL A/D converter **outputs** for reliability reasons, by means of a diode matrix (+ DIL switches for configuration of various antennae including multiband.) Do you have issues with your Elecraft + Icom configuration? Christian F1GWR Le 16 nov. 2016 à 05:26, German Duran a écrit : > Hello Christian: It gives me great joy to know that someone has the same > concern about combining the K3s with the 2KL and the AT 500. I will be very > attentive to any communication from you about it. Merci beacoup. German HK3J > > > El mar., 15 nov. 2016 8:22 p. m., f1gwr escribió: > Just under way buying one 2KL+PS+AT500. Expect to find some way to control > them with my K3s. > Will let you know if this is your concern. > 73 > Christian F1GWR > > Le 23 oct. 2016 à 05:18, German Duran a écrit : > > > Someone works the K3s with the ICOM IC-2KL amplifier? > > Best regards for all. > > German HK3J > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to f1...@free.fr > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] OT: FS: YouKits DP-1 QRP Power & SWR meter
I have an older YouKits DP-1 QRP Power & SWR meter - reads from 5milliwatts to 25 watts in 2 ranges. Frequency range is 1-60 MHz with a specified accuracy of 5 percent. Their exclusive US distributor, Vibroplex, is selling these for $149 plus shipping. The new ones have an internal Lithium Ion rechargable battery. This one came without the battery/charger and Vibroplex will not sell just the battery/charger separately (at least as of my last call to them) and you cannot get it from YouKits directly. It can be powered through the coaxial power jack by any 8-15 volt source (center pin is positive) and most 9-12 volt wall warts power it just fine. I'm including a 9 volt 300 ma wall ward with the unit. The operating instructions can be downloaded from the www.vibroplex.com website but a printed copy will be included. I'm asking $85 shipped anywhere in the US for this one. (I can't ship it internationally as it would be cost prohibitive.) Cosmetically it's a 9 out of 10 (they misspelled the word CHARGE when they silk screened the lettering on the front panel - spelled it CHAGE). Pictures of it available by email on request. PayPal (preferred) or USPS Money Order. Please reply off list to w...@cox.net and first "I'll take it" gets rights of first refusal as usual. Jim - W0EB Park City, KS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Design suggestion for Elecraft designers
It would make it s much easier on us when troubleshooting a power distribution issue if we could verify whether the voltage regulator itself or the load is the problem. All you would have to do is put a tiny jumper on the output of the regulator. Then we could snip it and see if the regulator is still putting out proper voltage and also look towards the circuit for a short. An insignificant cost that would make it unnecessary to have to cut a land on the board. Wayne, Old Buddy, what say ? Rick K2XT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Thank you both for your help. The problem is solved. Normally (about 98% of the time), LP-Bridge sits (software wise) between the K3 comport and the N1MM program. During contests, since there is a significant slow down with that arrangement when I attempt to use the CATASC1 SWT21 commands, I close the LP-Bridge program and go direct from N1MM to K3. Now since the setting for the comport in N1MM has the RTS set to always on and there is no "buffer" between the K3 and the N1MM program, we now have the conditions previously described. Setting the RTS to always off in the N1MM solves the problem. This situation exemplifies my military training and experience in planning "as too many moving parts" to the problem and solution. Radio, LP-Bridge, N1MM program and Time. My very best regards to you both. Jerry, W1IE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Jerry, That connection to pin 8 of the AUX I/O is most likely the problem. I don't know how you have implemented it, but it should not be held low constantly. See Remote Power On in the manual. Also be aware that when the computer boots, it will "exercise" the pins of the RS-232 ports, causing the signal to ground AUX I/O pin 8 to become active. That too may be part of the problem. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 10:19 AM, Jerry wrote: I will do that. I do have pin 8 shorted to ground through another rs-232 port and that is for my remoting my K3 as a remote. I use the K3/0 mini a lot when I travel and other people do also. I will look at the pin 8 arrangement. Jerry -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 10:05 AM To: Guy Olinger K2AV; Jerry; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated Jerry and Guy, The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something "extra" happening, but something that does not work. I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a dummy load. Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles or key in one at a time to make checks on them. Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves normally. Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens. I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable - shorting pin 8 to ground. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the pin problem to him. What's the serial number on your K3? 73, Guy K2AV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
I will do that. I do have pin 8 shorted to ground through another rs-232 port and that is for my remoting my K3 as a remote. I use the K3/0 mini a lot when I travel and other people do also. I will look at the pin 8 arrangement. Jerry -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 10:05 AM To: Guy Olinger K2AV; Jerry; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated Jerry and Guy, The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something "extra" happening, but something that does not work. I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a dummy load. Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles or key in one at a time to make checks on them. Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves normally. Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens. I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable - shorting pin 8 to ground. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: > > I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the > pin problem to him. > > What's the serial number on your K3? > > 73, Guy K2AV > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Jerry and Guy, The connector pin problem does not usually manifest itself as something "extra" happening, but something that does not work. I would suggest first unplugging everything except power and a coax to a dummy load. Make sure the K3 operates correctly - plug mic or paddles or key in one at a time to make checks on them. Then connect the RS-232 cable and run N1MM to see if that now behaves normally. Lastly, plug in the AUX I/O cable and see what happens. I would suggest that there is something wrong with the AUX I/O cable - shorting pin 8 to ground. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 9:50 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the pin problem to him. What's the serial number on your K3? 73, Guy K2AV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Hi Jerry, Sometimes when one sees a pile of weird inexplicable happenings that don't make any sense at all, one must stand back, look at the forest instead of the trees, and say I've got the the weird inexplicable multi problem syndrome, otherwise known as "the wimps". The problem with not knowing you've got the wimps is the attempt to fix the symptoms one by one, which can't work. There are some well known wimps causes. RFI in the shack is a great one. Problems with third party programs another. Another, if your K3 is old enough, is the "pin problem" that needs the replacement with gold pins thing done. I'd like to see W3FPR's take on your wimps, if that sounds like the pin problem to him. What's the serial number on your K3? 73, Guy K2AV On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 8:50 AM Jerry wrote: > Good morning all, > > > > I have been having this problem for about the last three weeks. Erratic > behavior with my K3; such as when I attempted to turn off the K3, it would > remove sound, xmit and the data on the front panel. The panel would stay > lit with the amber backlight, but there would be just a blank screen. To > reset the radio back to being "all off", I would disconnect the power, wait > a respectable 10 seconds and then when I turn it on and all was well until > I > tried to turn it off again, resulting in the same previous condition. I was > on the verge of sending the rig back home to California after the winter > contests , when I notice something during yesterdays SSB contest. > > > > I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would > behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable and the > radio > would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program. It seems I would > have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so. So one time, I > had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on > the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer > board). > I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3 > problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when > N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected. > > > > My question is,after this long ramble, before I submit this to the N1MM > team, has anyone else experienced this type of behavior in the relationship > of N1MM and the K3? > > > > Best regards, > > > > Jerry, W1IE > > > > (BTW I did get a "Sweep" on the contest. I don't think it would have happen > if I did not have the K3.) > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to k2av@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Jerry, You must have something else going on there. Check the PSn command in the K3 Programmer's Reference and you should see that the command can turn the K3 power OFF, but when off, the K3 (and its RS-232 port) is not powered, so the K3 cannot be powered ON via an RS-232 command. The K3 CAN be powered on by an external device pulling the AUX I/O connector pin 8 to ground, but not via the RS-232 connection. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/21/2016 8:48 AM, Jerry wrote: I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable and the radio would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program. It seems I would have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so. So one time, I had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer board). I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3 problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] k3 being turn on when N1MM is activated
Good morning all, I have been having this problem for about the last three weeks. Erratic behavior with my K3; such as when I attempted to turn off the K3, it would remove sound, xmit and the data on the front panel. The panel would stay lit with the amber backlight, but there would be just a blank screen. To reset the radio back to being "all off", I would disconnect the power, wait a respectable 10 seconds and then when I turn it on and all was well until I tried to turn it off again, resulting in the same previous condition. I was on the verge of sending the rig back home to California after the winter contests , when I notice something during yesterdays SSB contest. I was using N1MM software for contesting and I noticed that the radio would behave oddly; such as after a while the VOX became unreliable and the radio would not respond to mouse clicks on the N1MM program. It seems I would have to reset the radio and N1MM every ten minutes or so. So one time, I had both N1MM down and the radio off, and when I started N1MM, it turned on the radio via through a standard RS-232 port (came with the computer board). I have since found out through some testing this morning, that all my K3 problems seem to be related to the presence of the N1MM being on, and when N1MM was shut down - my K3 works as expected. My question is,after this long ramble, before I submit this to the N1MM team, has anyone else experienced this type of behavior in the relationship of N1MM and the K3? Best regards, Jerry, W1IE (BTW I did get a "Sweep" on the contest. I don't think it would have happen if I did not have the K3.) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keyboards for P3/SVGA
This is small and inexpensive: Boxcave 78 Key Wired USB Mini Slim Keyboard You can find it on Amazon for $19.00. Anything similar would work just as well. I agree with the others. Stay away from elaborate keyboards that have USB ports or other bells and whistles. 73, Charles N2SO Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc. http://QCWA.org On Sunday, November 20, 2016 8:45 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote: __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to charlestr...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
