[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

   A recycled sunspot is rising for another pass.  It rounded the limb 
with a bang sending a CME off into space.  Hopefully it will continue 
its activity and shoot something in our direction. Weather has been very 
pleasant.  The moist green palette is being replaced by a sunnier, more 
yellow one.  Most of the trillium blossoms are turning purple, they can 
spend the rest of the year storing energy.  Follow the link to watch 
some improbable machines.  Who needs friction anyway?



Please join us on:

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
 7047 kHz at z Monday (5 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS


https://andreaswannerstedt.se/projects
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[Elecraft] HELP! KPA-500 HV is 10 Volts

[Andy Durbin]

"When I powered-up the unit and tapped "HV" I get numbers between 9 and 11 
volts (expecting ~ 65 or 70 Volts)."

I'd suggest measuring the actual HV rail at the PA input spade terminal.  That 
will tell you if you have a real low voltage problem or a voltage sensing 
problem.  The interlock switch will need to be defeated which is not difficult 
but I leave that to your ingenuity.

If the voltage really is low then (switch off) disconnect the 60 V bus from the 
PA module (switch on) and measure again.  My HV supply is 80 V unloaded.

The interlock switch is there to stop you doing this so don't defeat it without 
considering the risks and taking appropriate precautions.  

73,
Andy, k3wyc



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[Elecraft] HELP! KPA-500 HV is 10 Volts

[Tom KG3V]

Just got a repaired KPA-500 PA/LPF module from Elecraft and installed it 
in my KPA-500 Amp. I carefully (I thought) reassembled everything. When 
I powered-up the unit and tapped "HV" I get numbers between 9 and 11 
volts (expecting ~ 65 or 70 Volts). I know this is not right. I 
double-checked the 270V line to the PA module and the top cover 
interlock. Surely I am doing something stupid.


Any ideas?

73,

Tom, KG3V


--
Get on the Air and make some noise
Ham Blog at WWW.KG3V.COM


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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S F/W update

[Jim N7US]

With Don's help and the K3 Utility Program Help file's troubleshooting section, 
I got the problem solved.  I wasn't panicking but I felt much better after 
reloading the files updating the firmware to 5.67.

Turning off the P/S, unplugging the power to the radio and from the radio to 
the P3, and, probably most importantly, restarting the computer did the job.

Support from Don on a Saturday night is a big reason why I remain a loyal, 
delighted customer, with a K3S, P3/SVGA, K-Pod, and KPA1500.  I've had Elecraft 
since 2009, which is the longest I've owned one radio (actually a K3 and then a 
K3S) since being first licensed in 1964.

Jim N7US

-Original Message-

Jim,

You apparently had some glitch in the computer to K3S communications during the 
process.  Go to the Help file in K3 Utility and look at the instructions to 
"Force a Firmware Download" and follow the steps listed there.

Once you get to the actual firmware download, do not interrupt it  The K3S will 
reset several times.  If you get another computer glitch, repeat the process.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2019 8:15 PM, Jim N7US wrote:
> I just tried to update the F/W in my K3S to 5.67 using the Utility 
> (Rev
> 1.167.25) but it failed.  The TX LED is slowly flashing, the display 
> is off, except for MCU LD.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S F/W update

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

You apparently had some glitch in the computer to K3S communications 
during the process.  Go to the Help file in K3 Utility and look at the 
instructions to "Force a Firmware Download" and follow the steps listed 
there.


Once you get to the actual firmware download, do not interrupt it  The 
K3S will reset several times.  If you get another computer glitch, 
repeat the process.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/4/2019 8:15 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

I just tried to update the F/W in my K3S to 5.67 using the Utility (Rev
1.167.25) but it failed.  The TX LED is slowly flashing, the display is off,
except for MCU LD.


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[Elecraft] Problem with K3S F/W update

[Jim N7US]

I just tried to update the F/W in my K3S to 5.67 using the Utility (Rev
1.167.25) but it failed.  The TX LED is slowly flashing, the display is off,
except for MCU LD.

 

I couldn't turn off power to the radio with the Power button, so I turned
off the P/S and turned it back on, but no change.

 

I've never had a problem before with a F/W update.

 

Jim N7US

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Configuration of N1MM with K3 RemoteRig

[Jorge Diez (CX6VM-CW5W)]

Charly

You  also need a rs232 to usb interface, from COM1 on front of remoterig box to 
another USB port on the local computer running N1MMLogger 

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

Enviado desde mi iPhone

El 4 may. 2019, a la(s) 13:50, Charles Tropp  escribió:

> Hi,
> 
> I recently installed a private K3-Remote System using my existing K3 and
> adding a K3/Ø Mini Control Panel. I have the RRIGSET and all required
> cables installed. I have tested the system and it appears to work well as I
> can both hear and control the remote radio and send CW on my straight key
> plugged into the back of the K3/Ø.
> 
> I would like to add the N1MM contest program using windows 10 Lap Top
> locally with a USB cable running from the USB socket on the front of the
> RRC to my Lap Top. I have configured both RRCs COM1 to: “Mode-7 CAT to COM2
> (local & remote)”.  The serial setting for COM1 has been set “Use USB Com
> Port as COM1” to YES. COM3 (extra) mode has been set to “Mode -8 Winkeyer”.
> 
> RRC 1258 Ø (COM 1)
> 
> RRC 1258 1(COM 11)
> 
> RRC 1258 2 (COM 12)
> 
> RRC 1258 3 COMExtra (COM 2)
> 
> So far I have been unable to configure N  1MM to communicate with my K3
> remote. COM 11 doesn’t work and COM12 produces unsolicited and random CW
> transmissions. COM2 make no difference.  Interestingly, I can use my K3
> remote with SKCCLogger with COM2. Any assistance would be greatly
> appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 73 Charles N2SO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> *73, Charles N2SO*
> *Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc.*
> *www.qcwa.org *
> __
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[Elecraft] Configuration of N1MM with K3 RemoteRig

[Charles Tropp]

Hi,

I recently installed a private K3-Remote System using my existing K3 and
adding a K3/Ø Mini Control Panel. I have the RRIGSET and all required
cables installed. I have tested the system and it appears to work well as I
can both hear and control the remote radio and send CW on my straight key
plugged into the back of the K3/Ø.

I would like to add the N1MM contest program using windows 10 Lap Top
locally with a USB cable running from the USB socket on the front of the
RRC to my Lap Top. I have configured both RRCs COM1 to: “Mode-7 CAT to COM2
(local & remote)”.  The serial setting for COM1 has been set “Use USB Com
Port as COM1” to YES. COM3 (extra) mode has been set to “Mode -8 Winkeyer”.

RRC 1258 Ø (COM 1)

RRC 1258 1(COM 11)

RRC 1258 2 (COM 12)

RRC 1258 3 COMExtra (COM 2)

So far I have been unable to configure N  1MM to communicate with my K3
remote. COM 11 doesn’t work and COM12 produces unsolicited and random CW
transmissions. COM2 make no difference.  Interestingly, I can use my K3
remote with SKCCLogger with COM2. Any assistance would be greatly
appreciated.



73 Charles N2SO





-- 
*73, Charles N2SO*
 *Treasurer, Quarter Century Wireless Association, Inc.*
*www.qcwa.org *
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Wing Nut Replacement

[w4sc]

Or you could use a threaded through nickel plated brass spacer.  Comes in 
several lengths… Use a nut driver to tighten.

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/215/452A-1452E-737207.pdf


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Wing Nut Replacement

[Ken Winterling]

Below is another solution.  Hurricane wing nut drivers are a possibility.
On small wing nuts I have used a cup hook driver bit.   They look like a
"Y".

Wing Nut/Bolt Driver:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-SpeedLoad-Wing-Nut-Bolt-Driver-AR2011G/205193156?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-7_POWER+TOOL+ACCESSORIES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c7170034127227%7c5873933021549%7c92700031755124901&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbOL94KC4gIVEovICh39lgL1EAQYASABEgL1_fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



Ken
WA2LBI


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 7:46 PM Jim N7US  wrote:

> That's nicer than my solution, which was to set the back of the amplifier
> on
> a temporary spacer (a thin book?) and remove the spacer after tightening
> the
> wing nut and plugging in the power cord.
>
> Jim N7US
>
> -Original Message-
>
> I usually struggle to reinstall the wing nut on the KPA1500 ground stud
> because there is so little room underneath the cooling fans for your
> fingers.
>
> I decided to replace it with a brass knurled "thumb nut" which leaves a bit
> more room.  Before / after photos here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jVY2uYecP6a3VuGk7
>
> This is an #8-32 brass knurled "cap nut" (sic), Lowe's Item #137190
> <
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Count-8-Brass-Standard-SAE-Cap-Nuts/3012
> 498>
> (widely available from other sources too).  One nice thing about the Lowe's
> web site:  they display the aisle and shelf where you can find it at your
> local store, a cool feature that other brick and mortar stores should copy.
> Select your local store at the top.
>
> Pros of thumb nut vs. wing nut:  easier to start and remove, looks nice
> Cons:  can't tighten it as much as the wing nut without pliers, and it
> rolls
> under the amp easily if you drop it.
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
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[Elecraft] K3/0 mini + cables for sale

[Oliver Dröse]

I have a K3/0-MINI-F ($699,95 new) plus cable sets RRMINICBL ($59,95 
new) and RRMTCBL ($59,95 new) which are surplus to my needs (I had 
planned to install a second K3 remote station but will probably not do 
anytime soon due to other priorities). All in perfect condition.


Selling the package for 580 EUR - free shipping (insured) within central 
Europe included (elsewhere to be discussed first).


Contact me directly if interested.

73, Olli - DH8BQA

--

Contest, DX & radio projects: https://www.dh8bqa.de/


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