Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread Jim Brown

On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

Folks - thanks for the input!

Jim - Not sure what version I’ve got - it doesn’t say, so perhaps it is first 
edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter 
grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground 
rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer 
connection point.


I don't know if the second edition is out -- we finished over the winter.


You mentioned “at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What 
would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest 
things to “push” into the ground.


That IS the minimum spacing. Most rods sold are 8 ft or so, so I'd 
choose 16 ft spacing.


Luckily we’ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all 
fiber here.


I would hate to lose POTS -- we often lose power for long periods, and 
when that goes, so does Comcast. And we have NO cell coverage, thanks to 
the "Tin Hat Brigade."  I'm hoping I have enough of a view of the sky in 
the clearing of our 200+ ft redwoods for StarLink to provide a viable 
alternative.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread Walter Underwood
Is the second edition published yet? ARRL shows First Edition, Fourth Printing.

http://www.arrl.org/shop/Grounding-and-Bonding-for-the-Radio-Amateur/

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Aug 23, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to 
>> the house utility ground - probably 150’ or so from the coax entrance panel 
>> to that Ufer spot. 
> 
> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and 
> you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That 
> includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
> 
> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that 
> what I’m going to do is to install a “perimeter ground.”
> 
> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were 
> connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the 
> perimeter.
> 
> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked 
> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second 
> edition.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread James Bennett via Elecraft
Folks - thanks for the input! 

Jim - Not sure what version I’ve got - it doesn’t say, so perhaps it is first 
edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter 
grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground 
rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer 
connection point. 

You mentioned “at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What 
would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest 
things to “push” into the ground.

Luckily we’ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all 
fiber here.

Jim / K7TXA

> On Aug 23, 2021, at 9:27 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
>> Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to 
>> the house utility ground - probably 150’ or so from the coax entrance panel 
>> to that Ufer spot. 
> 
> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and 
> you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That 
> includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
> 
> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that 
> what I’m going to do is to install a “perimeter ground.”
> 
> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were 
> connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the 
> perimeter.
> 
> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked 
> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second 
> edition.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2

2021-08-23 Thread Dave

Price?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 8/23/21 5:37 PM, VA7KL wrote:

Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.

  

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread Jim Brown

On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150’ or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. 


There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better 
and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded 
together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.


My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears 
that what I’m going to do is to install a “perimeter ground.”


Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) 
were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around 
the perimeter.


Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked 
through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the 
second edition.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread Phil Kane

On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:


Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is
about 100’. The first 50’ of it is the same path that the #4 copper
wire would take. Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn’t freeze up,
I’m looking at digging a 4-6” deep trench for these wires. Is there
any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 copper wire in the
same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons?


For safety reasons it is advisable to separate the perimeter ground wire 
from any "utility" cables, including antenna cables.  I would dig the 
trench to 12" or more, bury the ground wire, fill the trench halfway, 
bury the antenna cable, put a layer of some bright-colored heavy plastic 
over the cable (to identify it if necessary to dig it up again) and fill 
the rest of the trench.  Put marker stakes around the perimeter.  If you 
don't want to dig it by hand, rent a Ditch Witch.  Do not forget to call 
Locating Services (8-1-1) to mark buried utility pipes and lines on your 
property  before you dig - they are funded by the utilities.


Stuff I learned from my colleague Tom Croda (SK) who was the national 
expert on communication site power and grounding.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon

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[Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax

2021-08-23 Thread James Bennett via Elecraft
Got a question for those folks who are knowledgeable in grounding equipment.

I’m installing a Zerofive flagpole antenna in my backyard. There will be 
several 8’ ground rods at the antenna site. On one side of the house is my 
shack; on the other side is the home’s utility ground - a Ufer system. I’m also 
installing a KF7P entrance panel on the exterior wall of the shack. It’ll have 
several lightening arrestors and a very close-by 8’ ground rod. Per N.E.C. 
specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the house 
utility ground - probably 150’ or so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer 
spot. My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that 
what I’m going to do is to install a “perimeter ground.” Not cheap, but the 
right thing to do.

Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is about 100’. 
The first 50’ of it is the same path that the #4 copper wire would take. Since 
the ground here in SW Idaho doesn’t freeze up, I’m looking at digging a 4-6” 
deep trench for these wires. Is there any reason why I cannot place the coax 
and the #4 copper wire in the same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons?

Jim / K7TXA

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[Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2

2021-08-23 Thread VA7KL
Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3

2021-08-23 Thread VA7KL
Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.

 

 

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[Elecraft] Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the K3

2021-08-23 Thread Bill Wiehe via Elecraft
Just read July Newsletter and it is great to see that K4’s deliveries are 
increasing. I was wondering if there is any update on when those of us who 
place orders for items like the KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kit for the K3, might 
expect delivery.
Thanks,
Bill - W0BBI
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?

2021-08-23 Thread Paul Huff
Thanks to the several who replied, and especially to Don for the exact 
information that I needed.

73,

Paul - N8XMS
100% QRP CW



> On Aug 23, 2021, at 3:25 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Paul,
> 
> You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 manual - 
> you can make it a short one if you want.
> That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a serial 
> port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft is a good 
> choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make certain it uses 
> the FTDI chipset.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:
>> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I 
>> don’t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable 
>> that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB 
>> port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?

2021-08-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 
manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a 
serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft 
is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make 
certain it uses the FTDI chipset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:

I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I 
don’t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that 
is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on 
my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?




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[Elecraft] 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21

2021-08-23 Thread Steve Hall
Thanks to all that assisted with relays.
40 METERS 7.280 1900Z
WM6P STEVE GA K3S NETCONTROL
W9EJB ED IN K3
K9NU CARL OH FTDX101D
K5PD PETER TX K3
W3SA JOHN NC TS890
WY3T TIM FL K3S
W8UAN TIM MI TS-890
NC0JW JIM CO KX3
WN3T RICK VA IC7610
K8IGU BRIAN OHIO TS2000
KD9QDP RICK IL TS450
N3RFO LES MD IC7300
KC3HW JIM PA IC7300
W2JHH JERRY GA IC7300
N2TNQ LES NJ K3
N2DTS BRETT NJ IC705

80 METER NET 3.775 0100Z
WM6P STEVE GA K3S
K8NU CARL OH FTDX101D
WY3T TIM FL K3S
N8SBE DAVE MI K3S
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?

2021-08-23 Thread jerry

On 2021-08-23 10:22, Paul Huff wrote:

I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2
but I don’t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB
serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect
the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something
else that would be needed?


*** Not sure about the KIO2, but I did peruse the data on the serial
port included on the KPA100, which is probably the same.  In the case of 
the KPA100, you MUST use a custom cable - either supplied by Elecraft, 
or made up with their schematic.  This is because Elecraft
used "spare" pins on the serial connector for things that have nothing 
to do with serial communications.


  For serial comm, you connect ONLY pins 2,3 and 5 on the 9-pin serial 
connector.  pin 2 is TxD ( data from the K2 to the computer ), pin 3 is 
RxD ( data from the computer to the K2 ), and pin 5 is the 
common/ground.


  Again, this is specific to the KPA100; I don't know if it applies also 
to the KIO2, but I suspect that it does.


- Jerry KF6VB

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[Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?

2021-08-23 Thread Paul Huff
I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I 
don’t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that 
is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on 
my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?

Thanks and 73,

Paul - N8XMS
100% QRP CW



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]

2021-08-23 Thread Mike Kholodov via Elecraft
I second that.

73, 
Mike AB3VN

On Monday, August 23, 2021, 10:14:29 AM EDT, Henk de Vries  
wrote: 


No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon 
as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the 
display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C

 Oorspronkelijk bericht Van: jerry  Datum: 
23-08-2021  16:01  (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: 
[Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael 
Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 
7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But 
this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> 
coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine 
tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in 
the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to 
*change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same 
way.  This is one of those UI things where there really is no "right" answer.   
 - Jerry 
KF6VB__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]

2021-08-23 Thread Henk de Vries
No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon 
as the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the 
display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C
 Oorspronkelijk bericht Van: jerry  Datum: 
23-08-2021  16:01  (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: 
[Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael 
Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 
7.200.56 and then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But 
this 60Hz> offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> 
coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine 
tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in 
the software because the normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to 
*change* when all you did was to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same 
way.  This is one of those UI things where there really is no "right" answer.   
 - Jerry 
KF6VB__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]

2021-08-23 Thread jerry

On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:

If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then
switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz
offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the
coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset
the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.
It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation


OTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit 
the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.  This is one of those UI 
things where there really is no "right" answer.


   - Jerry KF6VB


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