Re: [Elecraft] K3 Fault 6 and loss of power control

[Dick Dievendorff]

Check the KPA1500 fault log with the KPA1500 Utility.  It’s probably fault code 
60, and amp fault codes 6x are displayed on the K3 as fault 6.

7e de Dick, K6KR

> On Mar 6, 2024, at 21:13, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> Today I started seeing this in my K3 driving a KPA-1500.  It only needs 
> around 30-34 watts to drive it to full power on CW, but when I set the K3's 
> power to that, and everything looks fine, occasionally the K3 displays Fault 
> 6 on its panel and causes the KPA-1500 to fault, displaying 65 watts input on 
> the amp's display and well over 1500 watts on the power bargraph.
> 
> I can't find any reference to Fault 6 in the manual for the K3 - can anyone 
> clue me in?  Is something dying in the K3?
> 
> -- 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
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Re: [Elecraft] Tip: Front Panel Illumination Tip

[David Thompson via Elecraft]

On 3/6/24 10:39 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:


Here is a small, LED, clip-on lamp that solved the problem for me:


Morning Rick...

Thanks for sharing your experience and the link. You're right about the 
front panel of my K3 and it is not getting better as I age. :/


On a side note, I find a good desk lamp useful in front of the rig (and 
other locations) as well. Particularly if I can arrange the light source 
such that it does not shine in my eyes.


The next question is: Is it radio quiet?

73 de AG7TX

--
David Thompson, AG7TX
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Re: [Elecraft] Tip: Front Panel Illumination Tip

[Roger Stein]

Indeed, a nice light source depending on task, general night lighting for wee 
morning QSO, ahem - CW, sliver removal,
soldering aid - vision assistance, etc.

The one I utilize has the C-clamp style base that firmly attaches to the desk 
that you insert the lamp swivel pin into.  Preferred, as the clamp style shown 
is a bit slippery for my liking, needs some open weave sandpaper for increased 
coefficient of friction on the desk.

And, lights up the front panel on my K3s FB!

73, Roger VA1RST Halifax NS
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 7, 2024, at 8:43 AM, David Thompson via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> On 3/6/24 10:39 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:
> 
>> Here is a small, LED, clip-on lamp that solved the problem for me:
> 
> Morning Rick...
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience and the link. You're right about the front 
> panel of my K3 and it is not getting better as I age. :/
> 
> On a side note, I find a good desk lamp useful in front of the rig (and other 
> locations) as well. Particularly if I can arrange the light source such that 
> it does not shine in my eyes.
> 
> The next question is: Is it radio quiet?
> 
> 73 de AG7TX
> 
> --
> David Thompson, AG7TX
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[Elecraft] Looking for KPA 100 and KAT2

[Eckhart via Elecraft]

Looking for a KPA100 and Tuner KAT2
Eckhart, DK2LJ
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[Elecraft] Kpa100 and kat100 looking for

[Eckhart via Elecraft]

Looking for Elecraft KPA100 and Tuner KAT100
Eckhart, DK2LJ

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[Elecraft] K2 Manual building method

[Harold Howells]

Hello and thanks in advance for your help.  I’m just getting going on my K2 
build and I don’t understand the reasoning behind putting all the capacitors in 
the PCB, bending their leads to hold them in place, and then soldering them all 
at the end?  This seems to me create a big mess with components all out of 
whack.  What is the reason for doing it this way?   HH

Harold Howells
hhowe...@intrq.com




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[Elecraft] P3 history

[Doug Hensley]

I recently heard that early P3's (first gen ?) used a different P3-to-K3 cable 
than the last generation of P3-to-K3s's did.  Can anyone tell me anything about 
that?  And is there a fix for connecting an eary P3 to a late K3s?

Or was my leg being pulled? 🙂

Thanks,

Doug W5JV






Visit https://www.qrz.com/db/W5JV for some great vacuum tube finds.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Manual building method

[Fred Jensen]

Back in the point-to-point wiring days it was common to place a number 
of components at once, folding the leads/wires over the terminals and 
then soldering all of them.  It was said to cut down on misplaced 
components because you were focused on selecting the right components 
and placing them correctly and not interrupted by soldering.  I found it 
often led to unsoldered connections.


It apparently carried over when things moved to thru-hole PCB's.  I 
found that also led to unsoldered components.  When I built my K2, I:


1.  Banned the Hoover from the shack until I was done

2.  Sorted the components into baking tins

3.  Mostly placed and soldered components individually after triple 
checking.  I'm colorblind and can't read color codes so every resistor 
was checked with the ohmmeter.  I asked my wife once to read a couple of 
color codes ... "That one is sort of a pinkish salmon, this one is a 
light mauve."  Gave up on that.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Harold Howells wrote on 3/7/2024 11:28 AM:

Hello and thanks in advance for your help.  I’m just getting going on my K2 
build and I don’t understand the reasoning behind putting all the capacitors in 
the PCB, bending their leads to hold them in place, and then soldering them all 
at the end?  This seems to me create a big mess with components all out of 
whack.  What is the reason for doing it this way?   HH

Harold Howells
hhowe...@intrq.com




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 history

[Doug Hensley]

Okay, I found an image of the apron of an early P3 & it is using a DB9 RS232 
sub d connector.

Does anyone know this can be adapted to the later CAT5/6 socket the newer K3s 
uses?

Doug W5JV









From: Doug Hensley 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 5:24 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Cc: Don Wilhelm 
Subject: P3 history

I recently heard that early P3's (first gen ?) used a different P3-to-K3 cable 
than the last generation of P3-to-K3s's did.  Can anyone tell me anything about 
that?  And is there a fix for connecting an eary P3 to a late K3s?

Or was my leg being pulled? 🙂

Thanks,

Doug W5JV






Visit https://www.qrz.com/db/W5JV for some great vacuum tube finds.


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 history

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Please look at the K3s Owners Manual.  The cabling necessary
to connect the K3S (and K3 with KIO3B) RJ45 Serial connection
to the 2 x DB9 connectors of the P3  or to connect the
K3 (DB9) serial connection to the P3 ... is fully documented
there.
73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 3/7/2024 6:41 PM, Doug Hensley wrote:

Okay, I found an image of the apron of an early P3 & it is using a DB9 RS232 
sub d connector.

Does anyone know this can be adapted to the later CAT5/6 socket the newer K3s 
uses?

Doug W5JV









From: Doug Hensley 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 5:24 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Cc: Don Wilhelm 
Subject: P3 history

I recently heard that early P3's (first gen ?) used a different P3-to-K3 cable 
than the last generation of P3-to-K3s's did.  Can anyone tell me anything about 
that?  And is there a fix for connecting an eary P3 to a late K3s?

Or was my leg being pulled? 🙂

Thanks,

Doug W5JV




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Re: [Elecraft] Tip: Front Panel Illumination Tip

[Jim Brown]

On 3/6/2024 8:39 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:

  It runs on USB power
(not supplied) and works a treat!


Looks nice. One caution, though -- USB-powered devices sometimes have 
DC-DC converters that can be noisy. W6GJB alerted me to this several 
years ago, when he chased noise down to USB-powered speakers!


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft March Specials Update

[Eric Swartz]

We've made a correction to several typos last night to our March specials
Several discount increases had been left out.

We increased the  overall discounts on the K4, K4D, KPA500, KPA1500 and the
packages for those products.

Take a look!
https://elecraft.com/products/march-specials

73,
Eric
*elecraft.com *
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[Elecraft] K3/100 TX problem on 20m

[Paul Kent]

Thanks again, Mike.
My K3 has the bipolar 100w PA.

I also have a properly-functioning K3S/100 with the CMOS PA. Just for 
comparison I ran the HP TX gain calibration on the K3S and it produced these 
numbers:

160m/19
80m/08
60m/10
40m/12
30m/13
20m/08
17m/08
15m/05
12m/10
10m/10
6m/06

The numbers are significantly different from those of the K3 but that probably 
doesn’t mean much. I even thought about swapping the PA modules between the K3 
and K3S as a test but they are not compatible for a direct swap.

Paul, K0PK

Sent from Mail for Windows

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Manual building method

[jerry]

On 2024-03-07 15:40, Fred Jensen wrote:

I'm colorblind and can't read color codes so every resistor
was checked with the ohmmeter.  I asked my wife once to read a couple
of color codes ... "That one is sort of a pinkish salmon, this one is
a light mauve."  Gave up on that.


I've sort of given up on resistor color codes myself.  The colors just
aren't as bright as they used to be;  they have more bands, and it's 
hard
to tell which is the first band and which is the last.  So I use one of 
those

little Chinese component testers with a ZIF socket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YNB7K8G

It also works great for transistors, diodes & capacitors

- Jerry, KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] Tip: Front Panel Illumination Tip

[Rick Tavan]

This one seems to be quiet.

/Rick N6XI

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:56 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 3/6/2024 8:39 AM, Rick Tavan wrote:
> >   It runs on USB power
> > (not supplied) and works a treat!
>
> Looks nice. One caution, though -- USB-powered devices sometimes have
> DC-DC converters that can be noisy. W6GJB alerted me to this several
> years ago, when he chased noise down to USB-powered speakers!
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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-- 
--

Rick Tavan
Truckee and Saratoga, CA
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[Elecraft] Followup to building method

[Harold Howells]

Thanks to all for your input.  So I son’t see a technical or engineering reason 
for pre-loading components (other than speed of construction) and I am not 
concerned with speed.  I plan to go back to my preferred technique of install 
and solder one component at a time.  I think I am more accurate that way and I 
end up with a neater circuit board,   HH

Harold Howells
hhowe...@intrq.com




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