Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3
Just a suggestion for a battery source: Harbor Freight. I've been using CR2032's on my dog's illuminated collar (uses two batteries at a time), and they've been outlasting the "name brands" that I'd buy at Home Depot.If you're shy about using batteries made out of the country, just check the origins of the ones you buy a a local store! The wrapping's from one place (it says "distributed by") and the battery from somewhere else.Plus, for a pack of four, I paid less than I would for a pack of two of the "name brand"! After replacing one in the K3, I now have three more to use on the dog collar! Can't beat that with a stick...even better, don't forget to use a coupon if you have one...73, Bert N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Knob Responsiveness
My old KX3 (S/N 763) is a great performer but I'm concerned about the "responsiveness" of the AF/RF Squelch encoder knob. The VFO (?) knobs (A and B) work great and the response to turns is immediate. If I turn the AF gain rapidly, the sound (and the numbers displayed as "AF xx") don't react in sync, especially if I turn it fast. If I turn the knob slowly, no problem. Is this a known problem with "older" KX3's? Should I consider replacing the AF/RF Squelch encoder? The recent posting for replacing the "VFO" B encoder prompted me to ask the "learned masses"... 73, Bert N4CW/K1IMI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] recommendations for CW paddles under $125
I've had MANY paddles over the years and currently use both an N3ZN ZN-5 and a Begali Expedition; BUT for portable and mobile use, I still use one of several Vibroplex "Code Warrior Junior"...it's cheap and reliable. Shop around for the best price. Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 157, Issue 22
In a message dated 5/16/2017 4:28:05 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net writes: I will be driving from Dayton back to Wake Forest, NC, so a few extra packages will not be any problem. You won't be home yet, but that's close enough... :~) Wish I were going to Dayton, haven't been there in 10 years! Have fun, Don. Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park
Jack, W6FB, made a good point about resonant antennas. Going with this idea, separate resonant antennas should be used for each band, and mobile antennas, being high-Q may be particularly desirable. However, minus separate bandpass filters (to augment interference rejection), physical separation of the antennas by some(?) distance is also desirable. In the case of horizontal antennas (dipoles, yagis, etc), orientation (right angles or end-to-end) along with physical separation is key. Multiband and non-resonant antennas can't be counted on for signal rejection in most cases. The best lessons for minimizing station-to-station interference can be gleaned from multi-multi stations; their challenges and how they overcome them are always insightful. 73, Bert N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Setting Mic Gain to ALC Problem Solution
A week or so ago I posted a problem I was experiencing with my K3; in SSB mode, I couldn't "crank down" on Mic gain to get the last ALC bar to flicker. I had either seven bars (Mic setting 3 or above) or none! The bars were solid...no flicker anywhere. On-the-air checks detected nothing wrong with my audio or signal...but I had 7 solid ALC bars! I was using a CM-500, plugged into the rear panel (rP.H bIAS selected). Elecraft support suggested that to set Mic gain properly that I first set CMP to zero, reset TX Eq settings, then set the Mic gain. I tried that and still had the failure. I tried several other things: latest firmware upgrade, re-installing a known "good" configuration file, trying another mike (older lightweight Heil with DX element), reseated the KIO3 boards several times to assure a good contact, and even a borrowed mike that I plugged into the front panel (FP.H bIAS selected) -- all produced the same results, seven solid ALC bars or none! Support re-iterated that I try re-loading a known good configuration file. I did that again and it still failed. Then I thought back to his suggestion about setting the Mic gain properly; this time, instead of resetting the settings manually as I'd done before, I hit the CLR button instead, and the settings were reset. THAT WORKED! I was now able to adjust the setting so I would get the last bar to flicker. I could also see, if I was careful enough, the ALC reading increase from zero to seven bars, something it wouldn't do before. I've increased CMP back to the way I liked it but haven't played with the TX Eq yet...gun shy! I thought I'd pass this along, right or wrong, just in case it helps somebody in the future. 73, Bert N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Setting Mic Gain to ALC
I haven't used my K3 in an SSB contest in ages, but I've used my KX3 often. I just discovered this problem with the current ARRL DX SSB contest. I can't set the MIC gain so I have 5 (+/-) bars on the ALC meter (with the last bar "wiggling"). It seems to be an all-or-nothing situation. There must be up be some setting I've fiddled with that changed everything, but I can't figure it out. The meter is either at "max" or zero...no gradual increase using the MIC gain knob. I'm using a CM-500 headset plugged into the rear panel MIC jack. The MIC SEL is set to rP.H bIAS (rP.L won't show any "bars" at all!). MIC+LIN is set to ON...makes no difference when set to OFF. I'm getting good audio reports, but I just don't feel comfortable without the "wiggling" last bar in the ALC "meter". Any ideas? Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Popping noise in headphones??
I can verify that I get the popping (more like a click) and it's loudest between 150 and 100 Hz transition. It doesn't bother me. My K3 is S/N 1326 and I have the new synth installed. Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3, FSK D, and Paddles
With my KX3, I normally use AFSK with a SignaLink USB; however, I occasionally use the KXPD3 to work DX. I've always been under the impression that I could only send RTTY using the KXPD3 and not with my external paddle [HOOKED TO A WinKeyer USB]. I finally read the manual (again!!!) and realized I needed to plug my paddle directly to the KX3 (and not to the WinKeyer USB) to send with the external paddle. In other words, I must use the INTERNAL KX3 KEYER to use the FSK D feature. I tried it, and it works. Am I missing something here -- is there a way to use an external keyer (with the KX3 Menu setting set at HAND? Hey, I'm a slow learner!!! Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 RTTY PROBLEM
I tried to get on the OK DX RTTY contest this weekend using my K3. I used N1MM+ with MMTTY and configured MMTTY as usual. Hit the TX button in MMTTY, the K3 went into transmit mode with no output! I'm using FW version 5.01 on the K3. I eventually resolved the problem, but don't know the reason for it! What happened is this: in MMTTY Config, I set the Mark (and HAM Default) frequency at 2125 Hz, as I've always done. No r.f. output from the K3 with the PC (and interface) putting out the RTTY signal... The solution was to set the Mark (and HAM default) frequency to 915 Hz (170 Hz shift, of course!). That worked! I swear I NEVER touched the PITCH button, never mind that I had never changed the Mark frequency there...BUT, there it was, big as life, 915-170! Did this parameter change on its own from 2125 to 915, or did this change take place with FW updating? Curioser and curiouser... as Alice would say! 73, Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] ARRL 10-m contest
I used my KX3 and KXPA100 for the 14 hours I was on. I recently had gone through the rx sideband nulling procedure and really enjoyed single-signal reception. The amp got pretty hot...it definitely needs external cooling of some sort. I didn't take any PA temp readings, but the heatsink was uncomfortable to touch during long spells of running at 100W output. The KX3 is an outstanding performer, even if QSK isn't as quiet as the K3 with FW 5.01 :~) 73, Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3 Paddle RTTY
It's been ages since I tried sending RTTY from my K3 using paddles; I've been using a SignaLink USB for RTTY for the past couple years! Anyway, I set up the K3 for FSK D, plugged the paddle into the paddle socket on the back of the K3, and no RTTY! So I checked cabling, etc., and still no RTTY using paddles. I switched over to CW mode and CW worked just fine! Back to FSK D and no RTTY. I have my call in an M1 macro, so I pushed M1 and got RTTY (text decoded properly!). Then I tried the paddles again -- nothing! So I pressed M1 and after my call was sent and the FSK was diddling, my paddles worked! When the diddling stopped, the paddles no longer produced RTTY. What am I missing here? Bert, N4CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Thermal Fault
Thanks to all who made suggestions. I will be trying one or two fans atop the heat sink and see how that works out in the next RTTY contest foray. While looking into possibilities, I checked out the web site where I got my add-on KX3 heat sink (https://proaudioeng.com/products/) and found they had added a new product, a power supply specifically for the KX3. Specs look promising. [I don't have a vested interest in the company, just pleased with the heat sink.] Again, this reflector is a great source for ideas about great products! 73, Bert N4CW/K1IMI In a message dated 7/20/2014 7:18:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, n...@aol.com writes: I used my KX3/KXPA100 in the NAQP RTTY contest this weekend. The KX3 with added-on heat sink worked very well; however, the KXPA100 repeatedly faulted with HI TEMPERATURE indicated on the KX3 at full output after prolonged operating (lots of CQ'ing with short pause intervals). PA.X temp indicated at failure was around 60C...as it should. Shack temperature was around 70 degrees F Yes, I know all about digital modes and full power stressing amplifiers, etc. What I want to know is how to mitigate this interruption yet run full output. To that end, I have a couple ideas: what if I mounted the amp vertically so the heatsink fins drew cooler air through themselves via convection? Secondly, would a couple muffin fans mounted atop the cooling fins do the job? The net of this is that I'd like to enjoy the full benefit of having a high-quality 100-Watt amplifier, regardless of mode or key-down time. Bert N4CW/K1IMI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KXPA100 Thermal Fault
I used my KX3/KXPA100 in the NAQP RTTY contest this weekend. The KX3 with added-on heat sink worked very well; however, the KXPA100 repeatedly faulted with HI TEMPERATURE indicated on the KX3 at full output after prolonged operating (lots of CQ'ing with short pause intervals). PA.X temp indicated at failure was around 60C...as it should. Shack temperature was around 70 degrees F Yes, I know all about digital modes and full power stressing amplifiers, etc. What I want to know is how to mitigate this interruption yet run full output. To that end, I have a couple ideas: what if I mounted the amp vertically so the heatsink fins drew cooler air through themselves via convection? Secondly, would a couple muffin fans mounted atop the cooling fins do the job? The net of this is that I'd like to enjoy the full benefit of having a high-quality 100-Watt amplifier, regardless of mode or key-down time. Bert N4CW/K1IMI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
