Re: [Elecraft] Generic words on temperature
All, I am taking this off-list since it is so far off topic. What I said seems to have been somewhat misinterpreted. 1. "Threshold of pain" means it starts to hurt, not "I can't stand it any more". 2. The surface temperature of a child's forehead when running a fever of 106 degrees is less than 100 degrees. The 106 is an internal temperature. 3. This is a "rule of thumb", not an absolute. Run the experiment yourself: * Come up with a way to measure the temperature of a hot surface. Maybe an over window could be used, but you need to measure the surface temperature. Using a forehead thermometer will not work since it has bee calibrated to read internal temperature based on the cooler external temperature. * Heat the surface to 99 degrees and see how it feels. * Then try it again at 100 or 101 degrees. Yes, individuals can handle much hotter temperatures. I once saw somebody reach into a hot fish-frier and come out unburned; but he had been working in the frying industry for years and had built up the ability to to that. This "rule of thumb" is based on a "normal average". 73, Fran > On Jul 3, 2021, at 19:52, David Woolley wrote: > > 100°F is well within the survivable body core temperature range, so it should > never trigger pain receptors. > > In fact, I believe it was defined based on the nominal core body temperature > of a cow. > > Did you mean 100°C? > > -- > David Woolley > > > On 04/07/2021 00:03, Francis Belliveau wrote: >> Another rule of thumb for those who care. >> When you hold a finger on something and it is 10 seconds to pain threshold, >> that location is about 100 degrees F. >> This is not an absolute constant, but I have checked it a few times since I >> was told that, and it seems to be true for me. > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f.belliv...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Generic words on temperature
Another rule of thumb for those who care. When you hold a finger on something and it is 10 seconds to pain threshold, that location is about 100 degrees F. This is not an absolute constant, but I have checked it a few times since I was told that, and it seems to be true for me. > On Jun 30, 2021, at 21:36, Geoffrey Feldman wrote: > > My rule of thumb is that if you can keep your finger on it for a second or > so without pain, it's not too hot. > > > > The ambient temperature is really not the issue as much as whether heat is > carried off. I know it's hot in the pacific northwest but I think you can > still enjoy your gear. The larger issue is RFI from air conditioners. > > > > The environmental consideration many people neglect is atmospheric pressure. > As altitude increases, there is less air to carry the heat away. People > sometimes install fans with an idea to sucking out the heat. This is > actually wrong. The fan should blow ambient air in and the venting for it to > get out should intend that pressure inside the case be a bit higher than the > ambient pressure. More molecules against the hot part, the better. If you > read the fine print on electronic specifications you will often (and should > always) see an atmospheric spec with the heat spec. > > > > All the above is just rule-of-thumb of course. There is a lot more to > cooling electronics than the above but I think these are worth considering. > > > > Elecraft gear is pretty good at protecting itself as well. If your radio > cuts out, it's doing its job of living for more fun later. > > > > W1GCF > > Geoff > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f.belliv...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?
Daniel, 1,3. As I first rig I might be inclined to check through all the calibrations, but there is no reason to not assume that all is okay for now and see how the rig performs; although filter tuning can be a little personal. So maybe get a copy of spectrogram, hook the rig to your computer and see what the filters look like. Again others can help you with this better than I can. 2. Others are likely to give you advice on firmware, but what you have is likely close enough. I expect that some of mine are older than yours. 4, 5. Both of the KNB2 and KAF2 are useful, but the KNB2 only functions for certain types of noise so it might be lower priority. I could be wrong, but I believe that the chip in the KDSP2 is no longer available so there are no more kits available from Elecraft. 6. I would never think of having the KBT2 and KPA100 installed at the same time. I am not sure if they even can be. My personal choice was to not get a KBT2 and always use an external power source. I have specialized battery setups for what you are thinking of. Although that means carrying two packages, it greatly simplifies things when the battery dies in the field and you want to continue operating. I actually put a KPA100 and KAT100 into an EC2 enclosure that looks nice next to my K2 with KAT2 installed. The EC2 is also no longer sold, but others on the list have talked about alternatives. I suspect that Elecraft may still have some front panels for this setup available. 7. A cable is easy enough to make for yourself, just look up the diagram in the manual so that you get the t]=pinout correct. There is always a lot of discussion regarding USB interfacing. Near as I can tell, it can be problematic so take heed of what others tell you on the list about what to get for a converter. Good Luck and 73, KA4FRH, owner of K2 S/N 314 > On Jun 17, 2019, at 18:25, Daniel Solano Gómez wrote: > > Hello, all, > > My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) > as my first HF rig. I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been > able to successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO. It > has the following options installed: > > * KSB2 (1.08b) > * KAT2 (1.07) > * KIO2 (1.09) > * K160M > > I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping > and being able to operate without having to be plugged in. > > So, I have a few questions: > > 1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to > worry about doing any upgrades of the main system. Is this right? > > 2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct? > > 3. Is there any type of calibration I should do to make sure everything is > fine? I don’t really have much in the way of test equipment, such as > frequency counters, signal generators, or oscilliscopes. Should I be > worrying about this? > > 4. Should I consider some of the options I don’t have, i.e. the KNB2 or KAF2? > > 5. I see references to a KDSP2, but that no longer seems to be available, is > that right? > > 6. Any thoughts if getting the KPA100 would be worth it for base station use? > Can it be used externally? Is it fine to use it with the internal battery > installed? Would it be better to just buy a KXPA-100 in case I ever decide > to upgrade to a KX3? > > 7. I didn’t get the cable for KIO2. I mistakenly purchased the W1SERKT > thinking it was what I needed. Would the KUSB the right thing to get? > > 8. Are there any questions I haven’t asked, but should? > > Thank you for your patience, and I appreciate your help with my newbie > questions. I am super-excited to finally get on the air with HF. > > 73, > > Daniel, AG5UT > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f.belliv...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 in EC2 Enclosure?
Eric, Don tells you what you need to do to make it possible, I want to expand on the utility of the result. Many of us like our QRP K2 setup. My K2 has the KAT installed for seamless QRP operations when that is what I want. I also have the KPA and KAT 100 pair installed in an EC2 so that when I want to operate QRO I reconnect cables, power up the amp and use the two boxes like they are one rig. Elecraft did a wonderful job and you will be very pleased with the result if you can get hold of that front panel like Don said. Fran > On Jan 4, 2019, at 23:15, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > Eric, > > Yes, it is possible to mount the KPA100 in an EC2 enclosure - If you already > have the enclosure. Just mount it instead of the EC2 enclosure top cover. > > You will need to add a BNC connector to the lower rear panel of the EC2 so > you can attach the coax from the K2 to the input coax of the KPA100. > > If you also want to add the KAT100, you will have to contact Elecraft sales > to see if they have any of the E100142 - KAT100-2 Front panel and the E100143 > - KAT100-2 rear panels left. If they have them, order those panels and the > KAT100-1. You will also need E620012, x2 - 2 pin male, 0.156" spacing Male > headers and E620040 - connector 10 pin (5x2) male connector 0.1" spacing. > > Make up the control cable shown in the KAT100 manual and you will be good to > go. You need that control cable whether or not you have the KAT100. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 1/4/2019 10:42 PM, Eric Norris wrote: >> Is it possible to build a KPA100 into an EC2 enclosure (I have one), and >> use all external connections between the K2 and the KPA100/EC2? In other >> words, make it plug and play? My K2 is serial #6000+, and has all the >> options including KDSP2 and KIO2. I removed the KBT2 just as it started to >> leak. :-) > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to f.belliv...@comcast.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW Paddle for K2
Ted, If you want to stay truly portable you might want to check into the "KXPD1-K2 Mounting Bracket"; I think that they are still available from Elecraft. It uses the K2 as the weight to hold a KXPD1 paddle so there is plenty of weight without needing to have heavy paddles. You can see them at: http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/kxpd1k2.htm It was designed to hold the KXPD1 paddles, build for the KX1 which are very nice, but not mechanically adjustable. You might also think about making something similar for the KXPD3 paddles, but the design would need to be very different. There are lots of other light-weight paddles available, but it sounds like you are one of the heavy-handed users that Wayne ran into while alpha-testing the original KXPD1-K2 design; they kept knocking the bracket off the tilt stand. That would mean you need a method to hold them down. I would also recommend one of the paddle sets from Palm Radio. I also own a set of their mini-paddles and like them a lot. I That model is sturdy enough to clamp down with an ordinary C-clamp. I built a foldable wrist-rest attachment, using plexiglass, that allows me to hold them in place by resting the wrist of my sending hand on it to hold them in place. That makes for nearly infinite orientation options with minimal weight. Good luck with your search. 73, Fran > On Dec 23, 2015, at 08:42, Dauer, Edward wrote: > > Seeking suggestions about a CW iambic paddle for the K2. The latest posts I > found in the archives go back to 2008. Anyone have experience they could > share with paddles since then? I would like something with less mass than a > Bencher, to keep the rig portable, but one that won’t walk across the table > with real use. Thanks . . . > > Ted, KN1CBR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 project - removing the control board
Stan, The "Allen wrench" that was supplied in the K2 kit is an ordinary allen wrench, nothing special. Without hunting mine up it is maybe a 1/16 or 1/8, right-angle that is a couple of inches long. Elecraft just wants you to use this as a pry-tool. If you do not have a standard set of allen wrenches, you could maybe borrow one or buy a cheap set somewhere. Check the K2 build manual for wrench description in the inventory, anything close will do, and instructions on how to perform this "prying" correctly as this is necessary between a partial build test and completion of the original K2. Basically you need to lift the control panel so you put the bend of the wrench on a mount screw head and use the short ned of the wrench to push the board up at a location that does not have any nearby traces to be damaged. I know that you are working with a K2 that you did not originally build and the step you are describing may not be necessary, but you should probably become familiar with this process any way. You will not break anything looking at the documents so at least do that and see how "not to scary" the process is. good luck & 73, Fran On May 5, 2013, at 2:57 AM, Stan AE7UT wrote: > I'm just finishing my KAT100 build to use with K2/100 SN #7230. > I did not build the K2 and have never built one - so unfamiliar territory. > > The instructions say to pull the control board and KAF2 if present. > It also says to use the "long handled Allen wrench" - yea I don't have > that . This K2 has a KDSP2 installed. I need to cut the trace and install > R12 between R8 and R9. > > I popped the top panel between the front panel and the KPA100 and can > see the board and the resistors. This K2 has a jumper placed where the > R12 needs to go. Before I start pulling stuff apart can someone give me > a bit of a clue how to pull this board? I don't want to break an excellent > working radio. If Don is reading this - it's the one you fixed for me. > I don't want to have to send it to you again. > > "Dammit Jim I'm just an old country doctor!" > > Thanks for any help you can be. > > 73 > Stan AE7UT > > > > > -- > View this message in context: > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT100-project-removing-the-control-board-tp7573412.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Power Output Regulation Issue
All, I have been trying to get a handle on how well my K2 controls output power for a long time. I have finally acquired an LP-200 Wattmeter/Dummy load combination in order to provide a reasonable measure of this characteristic. The results are below: For a setting of 5 watts MHz PWR 3.50 4.76 4.00 12.5 7.00 5.01 7.30 2.34 10.10 7.07 10.15 7.03 14.00 4.31 14.35 1.95 18.068 6.06 18.168 6.24 21.00 6.41 21.45 5.5 24.89 6.59 24.99 6.47 28.00 9.45 28.75 6.22 For a setting of 10 watts MHz PWR 3.50 4.47 4.00 12.1 7.00 16.1 7.30 8.74 10.10 13.2 10.15 13.1 14.00 17.6 14.35 12.0 18.068 11.7 18.168 12.0 21.00 12.8 21.45 11.9 24.89 11.9 24.99 11.7 28.00 11.1 28.75 10.6 Of greatest concern to my are the main bands 10, 15, 20, 40 and 80 meters. Where the readings look reasonable at one end of the band, they are way off at the other end. I am wondering what might be causing such problems with power regulation? The rig only had the SSB, NB and Analog Audio filter options installed when these measurements were made. I very much need some advice on where to start looking and troubleshooting this problem. Thanks, Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Funny power measurements
Okay so now I have made Peak-to-Peak measurements with my O'Scope. KAT2 removed. 50 Ohm dummy load with 10x Probe attached. Measurements are in the table at the bottom of this email. It should be easier to read in Notepad. Although there is likely a bit more inaccuracy in my readings, consistency should be reasonably maintained. The readings are still mostly all over the place with 20 & 30 meters looking pretty good. 80 meters is still way off base. Something seems wrong here to me but I have no clue where to start chasing things. Fran - | Freq (Mhz) | V (P-P) || Watts; R=50 | | PwrSet-> | 4 | 10 || 4 | 10 | |+--+--++--+--| |3.500 | 50.0 | 70.0 || 6.3 | 12.3 | |3.750 | 74.0 | 86.0 || 13.7 | 18.5 | |4.000 | 71.0 | 80.0 || 12.6 | 16.0 |HiCur=3.0 |+--+--++--+--| |7.000 | 49.0 | 76.0 || 6.0 | 14.4 | |7.150 | 53.0 | 79.0 || 7.0 | 15.6 | |7.300 | 50.0 | 74.0 || 6.3 | 13.7 | |+--+--++--+--| | 10.100 | 40.0 | 76.0 || 4.0 | 14.4 | | 10.125 | 40.0 | 74.0 || 4.0 | 13.7 | | 10.150 | 40.0 | 74.0 || 4.0 | 13.7 | |+--+--++--+--| | 14.000 | 40.5 | 76.0 || 4.1 | 14.4 | | 14.175 | 43.5 | 78.0 || 4.6 | 15.2 | | 14.350 | 36.5 | 64.0 || 3.3 | 10.2 | |+--+--++--+--| | 18.068 | 52.0 | 79.0 || 6.8 | 15.6 | | 18.118 | 53.0 | 80.0 || 7.0 | 16.0 | | 18.168 | 54.0 | 80.0 || 7.3 | 16.0 | |+--+--++--+--| | 21.000 | 56.0 | 80.0 || 7.8 | 16.0 | | 21.225 | 53.0 | 77.0 || 7.0 | 14.8 | | 21.450 | 48.0 | 74.0 || 5.8 | 13.7 | |+--+--++--+--| | 24.890 | 47.5 | 82.0 || 5.6 | 16.8 | | 24.940 | 46.0 | 82.0 || 5.3 | 16.8 | | 24.990 | 44.0 | 80.0 || 4.8 | 16.0 | |+--+--++--+--| | 28.000 | 75.0 | 84.0 || 14.1 | 17.6 | | 28.400 | 72.0 | 81.0 || 13.0 | 16.4 | | 28.800 | 58.0 | 68.0 || 8.4 | 11.6 | - Expect| 40.0 | 62.2 | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Funny power measurements
Okay, I guess I left out some critical details from my original post. I am using a 50 ohm load that is intended to be used to convert test equipment from hi-impedence input to 50 ohms. It is labled 50 ohms and measures 50 ohms with my DMM. It should be purely resistive and I do not have any equipment to prove that it is. The need to load it properly using the KAT2 was only because I wanted the KAT2 in-circuit for improved forward power measurement within the K2. I knew that it would need to load things to cancel itself out. Based upon what Ron, Don and Jack have said, I guess that I should remove the KAT2 and RF probe and try something similar to what I tried last time I attempted to understand how well this radio tracks against the published specifications. Would it be reasonable to just place a short piece of coax between the load and an O'Scope, measure the peak-to-peak voltage, divide by 2*SQRT(2) and go from there? Would this require knowing the coax velocity factor and dealing with prioper lengths of coax based upon wavelength (half or quarter) at the different frequencies? I ask these questions because last time I tried using my Scope to make these measurements, the measurements were obviously incorrect because they indicated that my rig was way more than 100% efficient. What I expect is that I can make apropriate measurements at 3 points on each band and see that I get no more that 10% variation across said band and from band-to-band. I expect that I have a problem on 10 Meters because I am getting a HiCur indication at 3 amps when set for 10 watts, so something needs changing there. However, until I have trustable measurements on the other bands, I expect that untangling the issues will be impossible. Help from the experts is needed on how to make such measurements without fancy RF power meters. Obviously a purely resistive 50 ohm load is the first requirement, and I believe that I have that. 73, Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Funny power measurements
I created what I thought was a reliable method of measuring the power out of my K2 and am puzzled by the results. What I did was: 1. Built the RF probe from the K2 manual onto a 50 ohm dummy load. 2. Attach that to one of the antenna connections on my KAT2. 3. Tune the load on all bands at the band-center frequency to be measured. 4. Attach my DMM to the probe connection points. The table below shows my voltage measurements and computed power. I am very puzzled about 80- meters and have done that one twice without significant difference. The top end of 10 meters resulted in HiCur=3.00 so that one may need some help but only that one. I am using a 5 amp supply so that should not be an issue. Anybody with any ideas as to where I should start untangling things? Fran P.S. If the table below does not look ve4ry good, just paste it into notepad and it should be more easily read. | Freq (Mhz) |V (RMS) || Watts for R = 50 | | PwrSet-> | 1 | 4 | 10 || 1 | 4 | 10 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| |3.500 | 3.6 | 14.4 | 14.4 || 0.26 | 4.15 | 4.15 | |3.750 | 6.2 | 21.8 | 21.7 || 0.76 | 9.50 | 9.42 | |4.000 | 6.2 | 20.8 | 20.8 || 0.76 | 8.65 | 8.65 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| |7.000 | 7.9 | 14.2 | 20.3 || 1.25 | 4.03 | 8.24 | |7.150 | 8.7 | 15.5 | 21.6 || 1.50 | 4.81 | 9.33 | |7.300 | 8.2 | 14.6 | 20.5 || 1.33 | 4.26 | 8.41 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 10.100 | 8.2 | 10.7 | 18.3 || 1.35 | 2.29 | 6.70 | | 10.125 | 8.2 | 10.7 | 18.2 || 1.33 | 2.29 | 6.62 | | 10.150 | 8.2 | 10.7 | 18.1 || 1.33 | 2.29 | 6.55 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 14.000 | 9.8 | 10.7 | 22.3 || 1.90 | 2.29 | 9.95 | | 14.175 | 10.2 | 11.2 | 22.7 || 2.06 | 2.51 | 10.31 | | 14.350 | 8.0 | 8.7 | 20.1 || 1.26 | 1.51 | 8.08 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 18.068 | 7.2 | 13.0 | 16.7 || 1.02 | 3.38 | 5.58 | | 18.118 | 7.3 | 13.3 | 16.9 || 1.05 | 3.54 | 5.71 | | 18.168 | 7.3 | 13.4 | 16.9 || 1.06 | 3.59 | 5.71 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 21.000 | 9.0 | 12.8 | 20.0 || 1.63 | 3.28 | 8.00 | | 21.225 | 8.8 | 12.6 | 19.7 || 1.53 | 3.18 | 7.76 | | 21.450 | 7.8 | 11.2 | 18.8 || 1.20 | 2.51 | 7.07 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 24.890 | 8.6 | 12.8 | 19.8 || 1.48 | 3.28 | 7.84 | | 24.940 | 8.2 | 12.4 | 19.5 || 1.34 | 3.08 | 7.61 | | 24.990 | 7.8 | 11.9 | 19.1 || 1.23 | 2.83 | 7.30 | |+--+--+--++--+--+---| | 28.000 | | 14.6 | 19.5 || | 4.26 | 7.61 | | 28.400 | | 13.9 | 18.9 || | 3.86 | 7.14 | | 28.800 | | 9.7 | 15.5 || | 1.88 | 4.81 | Expect| 7.07 | 14.14| 22.36 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Field Day Rules
All, I have sent this under a new but similar subject. I have been wrestling with the desire for a new FD operating class that required 100% renewable energy be used. I think that this would need a restriction something like no more that 0.5 Amp Hours per transmissted watt of pre-stored energy. This would be to encourage those interested in developing a means to work a long-term emergency where even gasoline is not available. Anybode else think this class would be interesting? Fran, KA4FRH K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 with USB anytime soon??
I think that those asking the question do not fully understand all the facts. Admittedly, all computing hardware that comes with USB and RS-232 hardware comes with drivers for this hardware. However, USB is treated as another bus, like PCI, and drivers must be installed for each kind of hardware installed there. Since there is no way that a K2 will be of much use if it emulater a hard drvie, keyboard or mouse, Elecraft would need to provide a K2 driver for each operating system that they intend to support. Remember that Elecraft is in the Ham Radio business, not the computer hardware business. Furthermore, I have experience with these things in that I have fielded an application that simultaneously interfaces with 6 serial ports and 3 USB devices. The serial devices are much more reliable and much easier to troibleshoot. So until there is a better generic communications standard, I say that the serial port is still the best choice for a small non-computer company like Elecraft. Users only need to know which port they have attached their equipment to, and if your machine doesn't have any then you can but one that attaches to your USB port. Fran, KA4FRH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles -- typo fixed
The web address Tom provided had a minor typo. www.tmastco.com will work better. Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which one for me?
It seems to me that you are talking yourself into a K2. You say that backpacking is not a big priority, but you may want that option. The K2 is definately the heaviest of the three but it also has the best receiver. I took one up a mountain for field day. It is not all that heavy by my standards, but others will likely say otherwise. What puzzles me about your lists is that they include a KXAT1, and a KAT1; yet when you strip the KPA100 off your list, you leave in the K160RX but do not include a KAT2. If you have little need for 80 why 160? Also, for field work having the internal tuner is a major benefit since you want to spend more time operating than tuning an antenna. Certainly dropping the KPA100 and KDSP2 from the original list is the best way to minimize the price of the K2. This will still give you more power than either of the other two choices and is also the best choice for a replacement base station. Good Luck with making your choice. Fran K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 SSB Mic Input Frequency response?
I am now confused by the existence of two different mod's with the same goal. It makes perfect sense to me that I should not be wasting Tx energy on audio frequencies as low as 20Hz. Beyond that I am somewhat in the dark. Jim Brown and Stewart Baker have each suggested a modification to improve this situation. I am at a loss to know which, if either, I should implement. I must admit that I an very tempted to incorporate the indicated improvements. However, I would have no means of evaluating the results and therefore look to the remainder of those on this list for further opinion. Summary of the mod's are: from Jim: Change R14 from 1K to 2K. Change C34 from 2.2hF to 0.22 uF. Add 1uF in parallel with R15 from Stewart: Change C34 from 2.2uF to 0.47uF Change C31 from 2.2uF to 1uF Change C20 from 0.33uF to 0.047uF Is the situation severe enough to warrant an official mod for this? Inquiring minds want to know. Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Compromise/Limited Space/Make My Day Antenna Advice
On: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 5:48 PM "Thom R LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I could use a suggestion or twoI live in a very congested areamy house > is 11 foot wide and 25 feet long...with a yard that is 10 feel deepI have a > 10 by 10 deck on the second floor. > ... For a quick and dirty simple solution you could probably fit a 20 meter sloping inverted-V. Run coax feedline up the center of the rear of the house, as high as possible, to the center of a dipole cut for 20 Meters. From there run the ends to a pole on each corner of the lot. The formula: SQRT((10*10) + (12.5*12.5)) yields 12.89 feet which is only a few inches off from a 20 meter quarter wave (13.12 feet). The slope should easily eat that up. That will get you on the air quickly in an afternoon while you work on better solutions that have been suggested. Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Resistance Checks Advice
On: Saturday, July 02, 2005 2:42 PM "tom.w3qs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > ... > I had done the checking by probing with the common lead while the other lead > was grounded. I reversed the connections, and now all checks are within > normal range. Many of the other checks are different, now, but they had > been in-range before. > ... This error has been made before. Polarity of resistance checks do not normally make a difference because you are probing a pure resistance. Circuit checks are different because there are actually active components that will act differently depending upon the polarity and magnitude of the voltage applied by the DMM. This is also the reason that Auto-Ranging is not recommended. Use the correct range for the expected reading and readings will often look closer to what the manual indicates. This comes up often enough that maybe there should be a builder's note in the manual. 73, Fran, KA4FRH K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Power Measurements with question
I have completed my attempts to measure the power output from my K2 using an o'scope. I must say that my attempts were not successful. For some reason when set to 10 watts I get about twice the voltage as when set for 5 watts. At 15.2 I get about 3 times. This does not make sense because of the V*V term would indicate 9 times the 5 watt output when set for 15 watts. I know that this cannot be true! Now I do have a KAT2 installed and as I understand it this should improve the accuracy of the power output because of the more accurate power measurement. I set the K2 to display output power and got the following results: MHz Req=5.0 Req=10.0 Req=15.2 3.66.4 12.6 16.1 7.16.2 10.7 15.6 10.1 5.5 11.5 15.5 14.1 5.6 11.0 16.6 18.1 5.2 11.1 14.8 21.1 5.7 10.8 14.1 24.9 5.7 11.0 14.4 28.1 5.7 11.0 14.1 It certainly makes sense that when requesting 15.2 watts I get only 14 watts at higher frequencies, but why would I ever get readings that are significantly above the requested output power? I thought that this reading is what tells the controller how much power to output. This is certainly a puzzle to me. Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Power Measurement - Where am I wrong?
All, Thanks to all who answered me either direct or on the list. Based upon the answers I would guess that I need to pay better attention to lead length. I did not make any attempts to keep things short. I will also think about Ron's suggestion to bypass the KAT2. I'll post the final results in a couple weeks (my time is sparse) when I complete the tests. 73, Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Power Measurement - Where am I wrong?
I do not have a power meter so I figured that I could compute power from a peak to peak measurement using my scope. This should be accurate enough for ballpark knowledge. However, the measured voltage increases as frequency increases with the 10 meter voltage being nearly double the 80 meter voltage. This would mean power increases with frequency unless the formula I was going to use is missing a frequency dependent component. I have a KAT2 installed and I used a good 50 ohm resistive load. My math follows: Vrms = Vp-p/(2*sqrt(2)) Vrms = Irms*R assuming purely resistive load or Irms = Vrms / R if Prms = Irms*Vrms substituting yields Prms = (Vp-p * Vp-p) / (8 * R) I know that Pave = Prms / 2 but that does not help much because I would still get more than 10 Watts out on 10 meters when set for 5 watts out. Where did I go wrong? Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Part labelling or inventory anomoly?
I got the K2 Keying Waveform Modification kit for Christmas but had to travel for work so I finally got around to installing it yesterday. When I inventoried the parts I noticed that what was supposed to be a 508-3081 PIN diode was actually labeled something like 349-3081, at least I think those were 3's and 8's. Is this a valid part substitution? 73, Fran K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board
On: Saturday, November 13, 2004 6:20 PM "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > ... > Don't throw that resistor away yet!!! Yes, I agree that Acrobat Reader is > useful for stuff like that, BUT ... > > Check the 3rd step on page 15 of your Rev F manual - you will see that R22 > 82k is placed into the holes marked 'D3'. == All, I want to point out the unmentioned lesson here is that the manual should be searched for all references to such parts also. The KAT2 has a resistor that is only installed after initial calibration and in rereading it is also difficult to find even when you know it is there. Acrobat works wonders to find things that the human eye-brain combination will often overlook. 73, Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Audio levels in K2
AGC setting is probably the most often discovered internal problem with K2 audio. I believe that there is still an internal gremlin yet to be exorcised, based upon reports that Ihave heard over the years. However, one additional problem that helped me was changing to a pair of headphones that better matched the internal impedence of the K2. I believe that this is 32 ohms. Good luck, Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] J.T.O.A
Kenneth, I will second what Mike said, there is very little CW activity associated with JOTA. There is no real reason to favor a particular frequency. Just tune around the band(s) and you should find stations to talk to. Seems like I remember being involved in a 4-way QSO with Washington somebody north of the border from there one year. Very pleasent and the scouts enjoyed it. 20 meters should be prodctive for you. Good Luck, Fran P.S. Have some code practive oscillators and keyers around and the scouts will enjoy playing a bit with them. If you have some help you can even to demos. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antenna questions
I am currently evaluating a trap antenna design that is described in the 19th edition of the ARRL Antenna book. There are two different dipoles represented there: one using a 60pF capacitor and twin-lead feed, the other using a 100pF capacitor and coax feed. The described advantage of both of these antennas is that they operate on 80, 40, 20, 15 and 10 meter bands to some degree. I have modeled these with little success using EZNEC. I expect that this is partly because I do not know how to add in the resistive component of the trap design. Please also note that I only have the DOS version of EZNEC. Any way my reason for all this is that I would like to build a portable vertical antenna for field use that has the touted characteristics. Obviously I would need to provide and attachment point for guy wires as well as an appropriate number of radials. My expectation is that the radials would be mounted about 2 feet above rock at the top of a mountain (East coast definition) where there is little or no support for a horizontal antenna. My question is: Does anybody know of a commercially available antenna that might serve? I have looked at a couple and find that they are very expensive (>>$100) and very short (<30 feet tall). Alternate question is: Does anybody know why EZNEC does not seem to confirm that this design works well on all 5 bands? Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Anybody want to help out at an Elecraft booth at the Boxboro, MA convention in Aug?
All, I asked if the Elecraft crew was going to show up at the Boxboro convention and they said they hadn't been planning on it. However, they are willing to put one together if there are enough loyal volunteers to help man it. Are there any volunteers out there? I guess time is running short to bring it together. Fran, KA4FRH K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
