[Elecraft] K2 - removal of Digital Filter board
I am trying to tace a 2 x S point loss in my receiver. I want to remove the digital filter to remove that as a possibility. What pins on the control board do I put the jumpers - I cannot find this in the manual. I am off on holiday to Spain tomorrow and will take the K2 with me so that I can work on. Quick help appreciated John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 21, Issue 31 (K2 Iambic Modes)
50 years ago I listened to the US navy sending their very fast morse and was then told about the special keys they had which worked sideways and with a spring attached to the dot paddle. This was all magic to me as I pounded the pumphandle keyer supplied by the Royal Navy. 15 years later I spent many an hour (or months even) getting to grips with an iambic keyer. The spacing of the paddle was in imperial inches - well it sounded like it. I then read an article by a USA amateur who had developed a computerized iambic keyer specifically designed for the morse contest operator and he was willing to supply PCB layout and circuit details. With the help of many of the Marconi Instruments departments (both mechanical and electronic) as well as G3JKS help using his influence with a UK based well known USA company, we managed to produce 2 units both worked well and my proficiency with the iambic key rose to about 35 wpm. I also built just the mechanical keyer which has needle bearings. I sold the elctronics package but kept the mechanical keyer. 15 years ago I packed up amateur radio and have just returned. I had one problem with it - this may surprise you (it did me) - I could not remember whether it was the thumb or finger which pressed dit key. I now realize that I can send equally as well with either set up. Maybe this is just an indication of how poor is my capability. But it does show how the old brain can adopt a programme that one would think is fully set in the memory banks. G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 21, Issue 20 (Duty into UK)
I brought in the full package (K2/100 ATU100, DSP, 160M & SSB). The Customs actually rung me up to find out what it was. The expensive package may have attracted their attention but it did reduce the shipping and postage. However it worked out that dollars in the States arrive as pounds (£) at your door. The duty + postage offsetting the favourable exchange rate. I hope this helps John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Prosign Confusion
I learnt my morse procedures with the Royal Navy. Every operator could send good morse at 22 wpm and followed the WRITTEN procedure rigidly, if he did not, and was overheard by authority, he was in trouble. During that period I worked with the U.S. Navy who were faster but didn't follow the same procedure. I also had a stint in a Commercial Shore station where again morse was very good and procedure almost the same as the R.N. but not so rigid in its interpretation. I then joined the British Army where morse proficientcy was slow and procedure erratic. During that time our Special Communication Regiment of old morse men, consisted of R.N operators, RAF flight operators, Parachute Regiment operators and selected Amateur operators - they had a very simple but strict morse, which was initially diregarded but eventually adopted equally as rigidly as the R.N. I think I can say from experience that I agree wholeheartedly that Morse is a language but a one that should be intelligently construed and adhered to. The ITU has issued lists of Prosigns and of course print them with a single bar over the letters to indicate that they are joined together - I do not know of a way to type examples but when I was in the Royal Navy school we had to put the bar on top when we copied are morse with pen and pencil. Later when we used typewriter this could not be done but some prosigns were given symbols e.g. AR (meaning end of exchange) could be written as a '+' The current discussion about prosigns could be wound up by simply locating a formal (official) document on the subject and recognising that only those characters which are joined by an overline (as apposed to an underline) should be sent without spaces. The word amateur means 'non-professional' not 'lacksadaisically' and we should use the procedures laid down for our use - they do exsist. Other points raised were :- 1.The use of BK or B K. I understand that K means 'go ahead' an offer to the other station to transmit - I do not see the logic in sending a B. 2.Whist being trained as a RN operator it was required that both called and calling callsigns were to be sent on every transmission. However in the 'amateur radio exam' I was told that EACH initial call (transmission) also required both callsigns to be used but from then on one could begin with 'DE' (not overlined) followed by one own callsign, but not necessarily included the station called (in an exchange). My understanding was that the GPO (the British Licencing Authority, now passed into history) needed to have the ability to locate the origin of every transmission. This isn't followed any longer but since I have been out of the hobby for 15 years, there may well be a new procedural publication issued that I know not of. Some how I doubt it. Its a language, as the man said - enjoy it. John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4817
I am pleased to tell you all that I made my first contact yeaterday for 15 years. I became deaf over night and immediately packed up Amateur Radio. One year ago I decided to try and start again and bought the K2 kit, with all the accessories (except Transeverters). My first contact was pre-arranged, one hour before a Contest, and was reasonable easy to do. The Contest had a different result - I made 5 contacts in 4 hours, well 3 actually as I packed up in the middle for a rest. I carried out this exercise by (a) feeling the vibration from a L/S and (b) trying to read a light from my Son of Zero Beat. Both systems (light and vibration) have their problems and I shall be trying to improve on both of them. Help has been offered by members of this Net and I would like to thank you all for this. I would like to give something in return - I have produced a memory card for remember the function of the various buttons on the K2. If any one wants a copy please e-mail my and I will send to you. Regards to all John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 20, Issue 24
Thanks Dudley - My mate carried out a series of test (when he heard I had gone deaf) and he reckons (surprisingly) that the thumb is the most sensitive spot. There are others places I can think of but unfortuneately some of them were damaged at the same time as my hearing nerves when meningitus struck some 10 years ago. I have now decided to try and start the hobby again. Thanks for your help - Merry Xmas toyou and yours John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Headphone for the hard of hearing
Thank you one and all for your prompt and helpful replies. To sum them up - 1. It will be bad news if I remove the paper from a loudspeaker - it will stop working. 2. A visual method of reading morse would be helpful but I would rather use vibration, but visual and vibration would probable be the ideal. I was taught to read morse visually as well as audible morse whilst as a young 16 year old Navy trainee. I have not done the visual bit since - but then I have not tried the vibration method either - although a good friend of mine G3UFB now tells me he experimented with it 10 years ago when I went deaf and reckons he could read it at 18 WPM - but I haven't got the sensitivity in my fingers that he seems to have. Hence my enquires regarding using a LOUD speaker.. 3. WU7R tells me that a kit called 'son of zerobeat' is available and I will no doubt purchase one. 4. Steve (AA4AK) has sent me an interesting article on Sensory substitution - I shall endevour to understand this 6 page leaflet whilst imbibing my Xmas Brandy. The further down the glass I get the more I will understand it. Thank you Steve. Again thankyou all - further suggestions would be most welcome. Merry XMAS from John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 20, Issue 22 Headphone for hard of hearing
I am interested in determining which earphone (or speaker) would have the highest physical movement. I am deaf and intend to read morse by feeling the vibration. Once I have found the earphone/speaker, I then have another problem. I suspect I will have to find the K2's best audio that fits the device, then I need to nullify its audio output, since I do not want the neighbours to be annoyed by loud morse noise. I partially understand how a speaker works and in order to decrease its audio output I will have to remove or partially remove the paper which joins the core to the outer body - but will it still vibrate ?. Any suggestions would be most welcome. John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 HI CUR
I have enjoyed reading the problems of others but now its 'the winter of my discontent' as they say. I've successfully built the K2, KSB, 160 converter, DSP and finished the ATU (needs testing and not connected). I am now finishing the K100 I have got to the end of the test where one fires up with 20W and I've got HI CUR. I have gone through the tests 3 times now and cannot see any irregularities. I have looked at R21-22 and T1 and turned R26/R27 slightly clockwise as advise but still have the problem. I am feeding into 239 socket and 213 cable through a Kenwood ATU and then into Bird 500W load. All tests are perfect of the K2. I noted on my power supply source that when set to 20W the PSU is delivering about 3 amps. The Kenwood Power Meter is not reading anything much and the K2 LCD shows 1.0-1. Although in the production of electronics during my life, I left 'amateur radio' some 15 years ago when I went deaf. I am now try to pick up the threads and I cannot remember how those funning things with three legs work !!. I would really appreciate some help here guys. Regards John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 19, Issue 15
I have already asked Elecraft as to whether the CW tone could be inceased to 1.2 - 1.6 kHz. I am deaf and my hearing is only 100 db down in the left and right ear respectively and more than 100db elsewhere. I would also be interested in a system to modifiy the audio tone. John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 18, Issue 25 - Stripping coil windings
I have a pair of wire strippers - they are shaped like nail clippers but are flexible and therefore limited the amount of pressure such that it cuts through the varnish but not the wire. However I also use heat - not enough to burn off but sufficient to make the varnish brittle. Withe the wire strippers I rotate them around the wire and then gently pull on the varnish. In most cases the varnish is removed as a tube leaving a nice shiney copper wire. I'm not sure of the mechanics of this but it certainly worked for me John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 17, Issue 32
Bear in mind that many of the chassis screws are used to secure 'earthing joints'. The use of a lubricating oil or copper slip will indeed reduce electolytic corrosion but may well also introduce some resistance, as all lubricating oils/greases will leave a thin skin even under pressure. However 'petroleum jelly' despite being a very good insulator has a lubrication factor of 1 and any pressure (via the screw threads) will break through the skin and make good contact. It will of course also cover the joint and limit corrosion. IMHO. John G4BOU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 17, Issue 21
Try going to an old established tool company - who would stock solder alongside all sorts of tools, nuts and bolts etc. I have one locally wante to buy a reel but was advised that they no longer sold it. I huffed and hawed and the lady said - I have got a large old reel of it that I can off load it to you - so I bought a 2 - 1/2 kilos for £5-00. They were pleased to get rid of it and so was I. I am pleased to suppy anyone in the UK - just cover my postage. John Chance-Read ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
