[Elecraft] Elecraft Noise RFI

2014-02-19 Thread Rick & Carolyn Dwight
Phil,

I would suggest that you eliminate sources within your home
as noise sources before you search elsewhere.  There are hundreds of
potential noise sources in homes.  Just a few examples would be:  CFL and
LED lights, low voltage lighting systems, electric blankets, air conditioner
and heating systems and fans, electronic igniters in stoves, ovens, and
boilers, most power supplies, plasma TV's, internet routers, doorbell
transformers starting to go bad, battery chargers.  You get the idea..nearly
anything electronic, even devices that are turned off.  So it would probably
be easiest to turn off circuit breakers one at a time, or perhaps just turn
off the main breaker and run a radio on battery power.  I am sure others
will offer many suggestions also.  If your house is OK, you might drive
around the neighborhood with your AM BC band radio tuned to a blank spot
near the top of the dial and possibly you will get a real general idea of
the extent of the problem.  However at low frequencies like the BC band,
noise/rfi can be propagated long distances (like 1000's of yards) over power
lines, so the use of a directional antenna on something like an AM aircraft
band portable, or possibly even a 6 or 2 meter AM, CW, or SSB receiver would
be much better for localizing the "noise".

There has been much written on the internet and ham
publications on locating and fixing "noise".

Good Luck,  Rick  KL7CW

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[Elecraft] kx1 20 meter oscillation

2012-05-09 Thread Rick & Carolyn Dwight
Stan,

   Before you conclude you have an oscillation on 20 meters, please make
sure you are actually correctly sampling the actual output of the kx1 from
the BNC antenna jack and not picking up stray signals radiated from the
interior of the kx1, especially if its cover is removed.  Sometimes the kx1
waveform as viewed on a oscilloscope or spectrum analyzer looks much better
if correctly sampled.  Put the cover on the kx1 and ground the case.  Run it
into a dummy load through a coax cable and a T connector.  One way to sample
the actual signal is to put a piece of insulated wire into the t connector
(no direct electrical connection) and run this short wire and a ground to a
variable or fixed pad and adjust the coupling and pad to provide a
reasonable signal into your monitor receiver (say something less than about
S9 + 20 db.  

I have also coupled a small signal to an outdoor antenna through a T
connector, insulated wire & dummy load, then hooked my receiver to another
outdoor coax fed antenna.even if it is not a 20 meter antenna, possibly
through a pad and/or receiver attenuator, and have had a good (reasonable
level) signal to monitor.  There are also RF sample circuits and special
pads (possibly around 100dB ?)  which provide the attenuation to safely and
correctly sample the transmitter RF, which are probably not necessary unless
you want to set up an actual means of measuring levels.  

   Please be very careful not to couple too much signal into your K3.
Probably you will need only a small amount of capacitive coupling into the T
connector and can use a considerable amount of padding (try 20 to 40dB or
more).  Signal levels into a receiver of > +10 dBm could potentially damage
a receiver.  

   Rick  KL7CW   KX1 # 798Palmer Alaska

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Re: [Elecraft] kx1 antenna

2012-05-07 Thread Rick & Carolyn Dwight
 

 

From: Rick & Carolyn Dwight [mailto:kl...@mtaonline.net] 
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2012 10:32 AM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: kx1 antenna

 

Mike,

 I have used a kx1 portable for many years in many locations with
approximately a 25 ft wire, more or less vertical  and one or two
counterpoise wires approximately 17 ft.  If the "counterpoise" wire(s) are
laying directly on the ground nearly 100% of the time the rig tunes < 2:1 on
40 meters and typically lower on 20 and 30 meters.  If the counterpoise
wires are elevated (even laying on bushes) the rig may not tune on 40
meters.  It is usually OK if you sit at a table and drape the counterpoise
wires down to the ground.  I have found it very useful to always carry
approximately a 6 or 8 foot wire with a medium size car battery charger clip
on one end.  Often clipping onto a metal picnic table, guard rail, car body,
chain link fence, or whatever is all I need for a workable
ground/counterpoise.  Or in your example, just try lengthening one of the
radials with the clipped on wire, or for 40 meters only try lengthening the
24 ft radiator with the clip lead.  There is a good chance that the rig will
then tune on 40 meters.  

It is possible but not likely that something is wrong with the antenna
tuner, you can step through the L and C combinations manually as outlined in
the manual.  

The 25 ft wire and 17 ft counterpoise/radial is not proposed as a high
performance antenna, but as a very workable, light weight antenna which is
easy to set up and will yield many happy QSO's ..some well over a thousand
miles on all 3 bands.   This is my usual travel and backpacking antenna,
however, if I am operating in a contest and can set up a more elaborate
antenna, it may be worth the effort.  It is probable that this very simple
antenna "counterpoise" combo will actually work better than many of the
compact, expensive, cute, loaded antennas that you see advertised).  For 40
meters a longer radiator(closer to 33 ft) and a more extensive counterpoise
or radial system will perform better, but radiators much longer than
approximately 26 or 27 feet will not tune on 20 meters.  If your radials are
laying on the ground, a larger number of radials are more important than
radials longer than about 17 ft.  If your counterpoise is elevated above
ground, for example on a deck, one or two resonant (quarter wave) radials
will be probably be better, although I have found rather unlikely
combinations that actually worked just fine.   

Rick  KL7CW   KX1 # 798

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