[Elecraft] Re CW omission

2006-12-17 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
It's with some degree of mirth that I read all the doomsday messages 
about the death of CW with them dropping the test over there in the 
States...We had the same thing happen here a year or two back, and 
regardless of what all the "nay-sayers" had to say about it, CW is alive 
and well here, and in fact is  growing. I suspect that some guys are giving 
CW a go now that the pressure to take it as a requirement for a license has 
disappeared.
As for the lack of a CW test not filtering out the (dare I say it) 
"rabble", that is not entirely true either. A bloke (or YL) probably isn't 
going to bother taking the exam to come on air if he/she isn't interested 
in the first place. If they are a bit "green" compared with yesterdays lot, 
it is up to us to Elmer them in the ways and means of being an Amateur. 
Encouragement is the word guys...not abuse...we all had to start somewhere.
I doubt Elecraft sale will drop, as there definitely are people out there 
right now who suddenly have the opportunity to put their electronic skills 
to work building a HF set because a door has been opened for them.  Maybe 
not on CW just yetbut who knows?

73..Ron ZL1TW
   



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RE: [Elecraft] SWR bridge diodes

2006-12-10 Thread Ron Willcocks

OK Thanks Don and Tom,
QRP below 5w is rarely used 
here on the K2. I pull the K1 out for those events.
Anyway, I will get a bundle of 1N5711's off Elecraft next time I put an 
order in just to bring everything up to standard.  I'm sure I will need 
more eventually with the memory I have, even with a disconnect/grounding 
switch installed unless I make it switch automatically when I turn the 
K2 off [G]

73 ..Ron ZL1TW

At 07:53 a.m. 10/12/2006 -0500, you wrote:


Ron,

2 reasons for the use of 1N5711 diodes rather than 1N4148 (or even 1N34A) -
1) the 1N5711s have been shown to produce a more consistent voltage over the
frequency range than any of the others, and 2) the Shottky design has a low
diode drop (the 1N34A does too) which will produce readings that are more
correct at low powers (less than 2 watts).

With the KPA100 installed, the low power factor may not be a large
consideration for you, so the 1N4148s could stay, but if the greater
frequency dependency produces a problem, swap back to the 1N5711s.

Yes, keep those antennas shorted when not in use and when thunderstorms
approach.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-

> Hi,
>   The other night I left my K2/100 and KAT100 still attached to the
> antenna, and we must have had a thunderstorm or the like pass through. I
> had been using the rig before I hit the sack, and everything was
> fine, but
> in the morning I got the dreaded "Hi Cur" warning if I tried to transmit
> anything higher than 10w.
> Subsequent testing proved the SWR bridge diodes in both the KPA100
> *and*  the KAT100 had changed from being diodes to short-circuits. A trip
> to the local (dead loss) Electronics store to get some more 1N1755 diodes
> produced 1 diode ! ( typical)
> What's a bloke going to do with the Christmas postal rush in full
> swing and
> Elecraft thousands of miles away?
> In the end I replaced the 4 diodes with common old 1N4148's and
> everything
> appears to be working fine..which brings me to the question..why
> are the 1N5711's used anyway? does their being Shottky diodes
> make them any
> better in this application?
>
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[Elecraft] SWR bridge diodes

2006-12-09 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
 The other night I left my K2/100 and KAT100 still attached to the 
antenna, and we must have had a thunderstorm or the like pass through. I 
had been using the rig before I hit the sack, and everything was fine, but 
in the morning I got the dreaded "Hi Cur" warning if I tried to transmit 
anything higher than 10w.
Subsequent testing proved the SWR bridge diodes in both the KPA100 
*and*  the KAT100 had changed from being diodes to short-circuits. A trip 
to the local (dead loss) Electronics store to get some more 1N1755 diodes 
produced 1 diode ! ( typical)
What's a bloke going to do with the Christmas postal rush in full swing and 
Elecraft thousands of miles away?
In the end I replaced the 4 diodes with common old 1N4148's and everything 
appears to be working fine..which brings me to the question..why 
are the 1N5711's used anyway? does their being Shottky diodes make them any 
better in this application?
I did wonder if the slightly larger forward resistance of the 1N4148 might 
cause a slightly lower VRFDET, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
To add to this saga..after finding the diodes being faulty, I had the 
end of the antenna draped over a certificate on the wall to keep it out of 
the way. A sudden rain storm went through accompanied by strong winds, and 
there was a spark jumping across the ends of BNC fitting on the end of the 
antenna as if it had been connected to a cars spark coil. A grounding 
switch is now being installed
I have lost the odd SWR bridge diode in my 40 or so years as an Amateur, 
but this is the first time I have actually seen why
(the antenna is a 80/40/20m set of 1/2 waves arranged as inverted "V's" up 
13m in the center,and single coax fed.)

73.Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 & KAT100

2006-11-19 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi Brent,
  There isn't an issue with the K2/100 and the KAT100.they 
work just fine.
In the case I quoted the KPA100 had been constructed wrongly by having the 
incorrect parts installed. The KAT100 just had the SWR bridge diodes blown 
out by the faulty amplifier.  Even the best equipment can't be blamed when 
it is constructed wrong :-)
When you build the KAT100 to go with your K2/100 you will wonder why you 
had any doubts. It is the best tuner I have ever owned and compliments the 
K2 very nicely. Mine is a Rev "A" ATU and has done 3 Field days as well as 
daily service since it was made back in 2002.

73 Ron ZL1TW


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Re: [Elecraft] RE :KPA100 upgrade and KAT100 problem

2006-11-19 Thread Ron Willcocks
Great Scott..I am worse than I thoughtmake that C80 and C81 in the 
second sentence ..

73 again...Ron
Hi John,
   Sorry...I had a "Senior moment" nominating C80 and 
C81..what I meant was C58 and C59 were wrong in the PA I worked on. I 
believe C89 and 81 *should* be 472's ...or are according to the latest 
release of the circuit I have  .howeverthere could have been a 
change, and if the latest instructions from Elecraft dictate otherwise I 
would follow instructions.
Yes I think it is wise to fix the amp first. It might be wise to check the 
HV you get at the junction of R11 and C77 . In the amp I mentioned, the 
voltage there was falling to under 80v when the KAT100 was plugged in, so I 
went back to the 39k resistor at R4 to bring the voltage back in range.

Good luck..and sorry for my mistake
73.Ron ZL1TW

At 03:59 p.m. 19/11/2006 -0500, you wrote:


Ron -

I suspect the same has happened to the KAT100.  I did replace the diodes 
and it worked for a bit, but the problems quickly returned.  Probably blew 
up the second set of diodes.  Setting the KAT100 aside until the KPA100 
behaves.


In C80 and C81 I have caps marked "562".  The revision D manual says these 
should be 472's, as do prior manuals.


I then found the "KPA100 Cap Kit Upgrade"  which replaced C80 and C81 with 
562's (5,600 pF).


Should I go back to 472's?

You use .01 uF.  Would that be better?  How did you arrive at .01 uF for 
C80 and C81?


All help greatly appreciated.

73 de K1ESE
John



Ron Willcocks wrote:

Hi John,
 Your problem is a mirror image I had with an upgrade here a 
while ago.
On 80 and 160m bands the tuner would NOT tune 160 and 80m bands ...even 
into a Dummy load. It would go through a TUNE cycle...report a 9.9:1 SWR 
and lock into transmit. ( and not on a "in band" frequency)
I eventually found ( after being told to "think outside the square) that 
caps C80 and C81 in the KPA100 had been installed with .047uf caps 
instead of the 0.1uf they were supposed to have.
Fixing that made the amplifier stable when attached to a resonant 
antenna, but I still had trouble with it not tuning and locking up in 
TUNE when attached to the KAT100 ( but once again only on 80 and 160m) 
.I subsequently found that the parasitic oscillation had destroyed 
the SWR bridge diodes in the KAT100...even though I had checked them 
earlier as being OK.  Changing them and rechecking the balance of the 
bridge completely cured my problem.
So.the main problem was in the input of the amplifier causing it to 
oscillate , and it in turn damaged the KAT100. The alteration to "REV" D 
in the amplifier made the problem of wrong componentry show itself 
...so I would be checking the input area of your KPA100and double 
checking the bridge diodes in the KAT100 when you find it.
There is actually nothing wrong with the modifications. I have altered 5 
K2/100s here now and only been stung by that one with a prior component 
misplacement.

Hope this helps?
73Ron ZL1TW




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Re: [Elecraft] RE :KPA100 upgrade and KAT100 problem

2006-11-19 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi John,
   Sorry...I had a "Senior moment" nominating C80 and 
C81..what I meant was C58 and C59 were wrong in the PA I worked on. I 
believe C89 and 81 *should* be 472's ...or are according to the latest 
release of the circuit I have  .howeverthere could have been a 
change, and if the latest instructions from Elecraft dictate otherwise I 
would follow instructions.
Yes I think it is wise to fix the amp first. It might be wise to check the 
HV you get at the junction of R11 and C77 . In the amp I mentioned, the 
voltage there was falling to under 80v when the KAT100 was plugged in, so I 
went back to the 39k resistor at R4 to bring the voltage back in range.

Good luck..and sorry for my mistake
73.Ron ZL1TW

At 03:59 p.m. 19/11/2006 -0500, you wrote:


Ron -

I suspect the same has happened to the KAT100.  I did replace the diodes 
and it worked for a bit, but the problems quickly returned.  Probably blew 
up the second set of diodes.  Setting the KAT100 aside until the KPA100 
behaves.


In C80 and C81 I have caps marked "562".  The revision D manual says these 
should be 472's, as do prior manuals.


I then found the "KPA100 Cap Kit Upgrade"  which replaced C80 and C81 with 
562's (5,600 pF).


Should I go back to 472's?

You use .01 uF.  Would that be better?  How did you arrive at .01 uF for 
C80 and C81?


All help greatly appreciated.

73 de K1ESE
John



Ron Willcocks wrote:

Hi John,
 Your problem is a mirror image I had with an upgrade here a 
while ago.
On 80 and 160m bands the tuner would NOT tune 160 and 80m bands ...even 
into a Dummy load. It would go through a TUNE cycle...report a 9.9:1 SWR 
and lock into transmit. ( and not on a "in band" frequency)
I eventually found ( after being told to "think outside the square) that 
caps C80 and C81 in the KPA100 had been installed with .047uf caps 
instead of the 0.1uf they were supposed to have.
Fixing that made the amplifier stable when attached to a resonant 
antenna, but I still had trouble with it not tuning and locking up in 
TUNE when attached to the KAT100 ( but once again only on 80 and 160m) 
.I subsequently found that the parasitic oscillation had destroyed 
the SWR bridge diodes in the KAT100...even though I had checked them 
earlier as being OK.  Changing them and rechecking the balance of the 
bridge completely cured my problem.
So.the main problem was in the input of the amplifier causing it to 
oscillate , and it in turn damaged the KAT100. The alteration to "REV" D 
in the amplifier made the problem of wrong componentry show itself 
...so I would be checking the input area of your KPA100and double 
checking the bridge diodes in the KAT100 when you find it.
There is actually nothing wrong with the modifications. I have altered 5 
K2/100s here now and only been stung by that one with a prior component 
misplacement.

Hope this helps?
73Ron ZL1TW




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[Elecraft] RE :KPA100 upgrade and KAT100 problem

2006-11-19 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi John,
 Your problem is a mirror image I had with an upgrade here a 
while ago.
On 80 and 160m bands the tuner would NOT tune 160 and 80m bands ...even 
into a Dummy load. It would go through a TUNE cycle...report a 9.9:1 SWR 
and lock into transmit. ( and not on a "in band" frequency)
I eventually found ( after being told to "think outside the square) that 
caps C80 and C81 in the KPA100 had been installed with .047uf caps instead 
of the 0.1uf they were supposed to have.
Fixing that made the amplifier stable when attached to a resonant antenna, 
but I still had trouble with it not tuning and locking up in TUNE when 
attached to the KAT100 ( but once again only on 80 and 160m) .I 
subsequently found that the parasitic oscillation had destroyed the SWR 
bridge diodes in the KAT100...even though I had checked them earlier as 
being OK.  Changing them and rechecking the balance of the bridge 
completely cured my problem.
So.the main problem was in the input of the amplifier causing it to 
oscillate , and it in turn damaged the KAT100. The alteration to "REV" D in 
the amplifier made the problem of wrong componentry show itself ...so I 
would be checking the input area of your KPA100and double checking the 
bridge diodes in the KAT100 when you find it.
There is actually nothing wrong with the modifications. I have altered 5 
K2/100s here now and only been stung by that one with a prior component 
misplacement.

Hope this helps?
73Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Changes for KPA100 & Toroid Guy

2006-10-23 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
Bill K4DXU mentioned the changes to L16 and RFC1 in the latest 
revision of the KPA100 and he is correct about those two, but there are 
more changes and deletions, and anyone wanting to bring their earlier model 
KPA100 would probably do better to wait for the official information to be 
posted by Elecraft.  ( IMHO)  I'm sure they won't be long in supplying the 
information.
I have made one of the new revision KPA100's and the alterations are pretty 
straight forward, but I guess it up to the "Firm" whether or when they 
release a "mini kit" to effect the changes for those wanting to make 
alterations?

CheersRon ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-17 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
I have just finished making a K2/100 for a friend here, and I notice 
that the KPA100 is now up to REV D-1 ( Sept 28 2006) and has a  quite few 
changes in it.
Amongst them is the addition of two new toroidal RF chokes that are filled 
with #26 wire and because they are so full, the mounting holes on the (Rev 
B) board are a bit far apart to be able to pull them down tight. I was a 
bit alarmed at having a choke this size dangling upside down on flimsy 
wires ( when in the K2) that I have broken the Elecraft Golden Rule and 
used a small amount of non-acidic RTV under each choke to hold it in place. 
( I guess the Warranty just expired after admitting that!)
I wonder if any other recent constructors have had the same concern for the 
mechanical stability of these components?

Among the changes I see the pesky RFC10 on the antenna socket has disappeared!
Cheers.Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Filter problems end of Stage 2.

2006-10-12 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
   I am not going to admit to doing this, but if you ever reach the end of 
Stage 2 of assembly and the tests all come out fine. You do the CAL PLL 
after putting in the suggested BFO settings and then run it up on 
Spectrogram to check it, and HORRORSthe audio level is different 
between each filter, starting off low with the widest one and getting 
louder with as the filets are narrowed.
The "S" meter shows the same level though, so the problem must be in the 
2nd Xtal filter.  Right?
In fact it is...if you put D39 around the wrong way you get exactly 
these symptoms. [sigh] (and the builder was being *so* careful)..
One to watch out for anyway, as D39 is the opposite way around to the 
similar type varactor you just put in.

Cheers...Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Adjusting the 4MHZ Master osc in the K2

2006-09-25 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
I know this is an "Oldie" on the Reflector, but possibly worth 
bringing up again for the builders that have arrived since it was last aired.
A while ago, I built K2# 5577 and it was my "second set" until I sold off 
my old K2 #2204 to a keen chap here. It didn't take me long to realize I 
had made a less than perfect job of setting the 4 MHZ Master Oscillator 
when I joined in a net and found my readout didn't match the net frequency.
In the past, amongst other methods I had used to set the 4MHZ oscillator, 
was the one put out by Wayne N6KR, and I hadn't had much success with it, 
but decided that if anyone should know how to set the oscillator it should 
be the designer, so I gave it another try.
Without going into great detail, the method involves adjusting C22 (after 
tuning in a SSB signal "perfectly"), until the frequency readings at TP1 
and TP2 are the same.
My first problem was tuning a SSB signal in "perfectly", but it was fairly 
easily got around by listening to WWV and altering the dial on the K2 until 
there was no difference in the audio while switching between USB and LSB.
Switching to CW mode and using "SPOT" seemed to confirm I had the setting 
right.
From there I followed Wayne's instructions and soon found where I had been 
going wrong in the pastI hadn't been following steps 6 & 7 in the 
instructions, and that made all the difference. I was able to get the 
frequency around 20hz off, which is far better than the 220hz discrepancy I 
started with.
Where are the instructions to use Wayne's method??... On the Elecraft site 
go to "Builder's Resources" and then select " Frequency Calibrating the 
K2's 4Mhz Master Oscillator".
Appologies to all those who find this "old hat", but I am sure there will 
be a few look-ups amongst the newer Elecraft fraternity...

73...Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Lightning damage result/repair

2006-09-09 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
Yesterday a thunderstorm ran through here, and while I didn't think it 
was anywhere too close, the SWR bridge diodes in the KPA100 thought otherwise.
A few hours after the storm, I fired the K2/100 up and it was receiving 
fine, but my troubles started when I tried to tune up. I don't recall all 
the events, but I do know I was quite surprised when the K2 started to tune 
and suddenly all the lights went out. A quick check of the fuse in the 
power cord showed the 20amp fuse had blown. Replacing the fuse bought the 
set to life again, but when I tried to transmit, the display showed unusual 
readings and it was obvious there was no power going up the spout. 
Immediate panic set in as I visualized sending to Elecraft for a pair of 
new finals. However, after taking the shield off the PA and poking around 
with the DMM, I quickly found the FWD diode in the SWR circuit open circuit 
and the REV diode gave a reading of 2.2ohms both ways round.
The final out come resulted in a repair that cost me two 98c diodes and a 
couple of hours work, as Elecraft cunningly put the SWR bridge diodes in 
probably the most awkward place they could think of in the KPA100.
Everything works fine again now, but I have to wonder what else may have 
been damaged and just waiting for the likes of Field Day to stop working? 
Another mystery to me is why didn't the diodes in the bridge circuit of the 
KAT100 go as well?? And what made the 20 amp fuse blow? (perhaps the power 
being ramped up too high as the diodes were in their death throws?)

Cheers...Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Norfolk Is. with K1

2005-10-31 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
I am heading for Norfolk Island tomorrow ( 2/11/05) and will be there 
a week. I am taking the K1 and a range of coax fed dipoles I intend using 
as Inverted "V"s.   I hope to be on especially Thurs 3rd and Friday 4th on 
7.015+- starting around 0730z if anyone is interested in obtaining a QSL 
from this Island. I am *not* a gun operator, but will try my best if I get 
a pile-up.
I hope to be on 80 and 30m  as well, time permitting. I think the XYL has 
ideas of us being over there for a holiday break!
MY callsign now will be VK9ANAnot VK9BRW as previously mentioned. ( the 
VK licensing outfit changed it to include the "N" designatorI think 
they still have it wrong, but can't argue at this stage)  The call can be 
validated by looking in www.acma.gov.au .

Any QSL's to ZL1TW either direct or via bureau 

Cheers...Ron ZL1TW   ( Licensed as VK9ANA from 1/11/05 to 11/11/05)
K1 #575 with all mods and ATU.


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[Elecraft] KAT1 tuning cycle.

2005-10-09 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
 I just built a KAT1 to put in the K1 I am taking to Norfolk Island 
soon, and while it appears to work just fine, and remembers the setting of 
my dipoles ( which have a low SWR in the CW portions) but I have to wonder 
at how long it takes to tune, if I string the likes of a random length of 
wire to it and try to get a match. (working it to a good earth peg)
It "buzzes" away in what appears to be a timed run, and starts at 9.9SWR 
and works down, reaching the ultimate setting it will record and then 
carries on buzzing for a few more seconds.  Those little relays in there 
seem to be working their butts off
I only ask this , as the KAT2 makes a match on the same antenna with 
considerably less fuss. ( I am aware the KAT1 tuner does not have the same 
L/C combinations as the KAT2)
Just thought I would try the "random wire" as I am taking 1/2w center fed 
antennas with me as well for 80/40/30, but not knowing the layout of where 
I am staying, a wire thrown over a tree might be handy.
I'll have to say the match it ultimately obtains checks out pretty close on 
the KAT2 as well, but should there be all that activity when a tune is 
initiated? I guess if I used a 1/4 w instead of a random length, with 
slightly longer radials it might be better perhaps?

Perhaps I worry too much. :-(
Cheers..Ron ZL1TW  ( will be VK9BRW from 1/11/05 to 10/11/05)


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[Elecraft] Norfolk Island visit ( VK9)

2005-09-23 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
 I will be popping over to Norfolk Island for just a week, arriving on 
2nd Nov, and I will be taking the K1 and dipoles for 80 and 40m with me. 
Not sure of the setup where we are staying at this stage, but if it is 
unsuitable I will use the car's cigarette lighter for power and operate off 
a BBQ table, with the dipole slung up in a big Norfolk Pine.
I imagine 40m will be my preferred band, and my most likely operating time 
will be from 0700utc to about 0900utc (Greyline time)which means anyone 
in the USA would have to be a late/early bird to look for me!  If I get on 
80m I will probably operate until at least 1100utc.
It appears the morning greyline would occur about 1640utc  to 1745utc ( 
yawn) and probably favour EU. If no antenna at the Motel I doubt I will be 
around for that one!
I will be using 3.5200 and 7.015 +/- The antenna is a basic 40m 1/2 wave 
center fed with coax, and I have 2 more sections I can add on for making it 
a 1/2 wave on 80m. The anticipated configuration will be an "inverted V".
The rig is K1 #575  with the KAT1 installed, and I have made a small set of 
"travelling" paddles to take.
Anyway..I will be actively trying for a few contacts most nights. I 
imagine the XYL will interupt the schedule at least once, by wanting to go 
out to dinner :-( If you want to try for a sked, email me and I will do 
my best to be there for you. My callsign while there will be VK9BRW.   Be 
warned...I am *not* an expert op...but looking forward to a good few 
contacts.

CheersRon ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] Digital "scratching"

2005-09-07 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi,
  I am sure this has been mentioned before, but I have a K2 here that 
makes quite a loud "digital scratching" as the dial is rotated , only on 
the bottom of 40m and with the antenna off. It is bad enough that if I try 
the old trick of using the weak tone generated at 7mhz to check if my 
filters are set so the received tone doesn't alter between filters, it 
actually modulates the tone and makes it useless to use.
In all other respects the set appears to be going fine, but perhaps someone 
can enlighten me as to whether I have a problem.


As another view to your CW debate that is raging at present. Here in NZ we 
have no CW test now either, and it hasn't altered the useage of CW anyway 
at all. In fact some new tickets are requesting help learning it. Whether 
we loose any "clout" in holding onto our frequencies is now a point of 
conjecture. Most of our MF bands probably aren't of much commercial 
interest we can just hope the IARU can hold them out if they do get 
interested. Our main problem down here is fishing boats being equipped with 
Amateur gear, and Indonesean "pirates" using Amateur gear for everything 
from running a taxi company to talking to Aunt Matilda..
It's not about loosing CW privileges.it's all about loosing your Bands 
you should be worrying  about. Use em or loose em doesn't matter what 
mode. if the new chaps are green on the protocol it's up to us to 
straighten them out ( nicely).

Cheers...Ron ZL1TW


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[Elecraft] K2 #4325 lives

2004-07-18 Thread Ron Willcocks
K2 #4325 was tested on air this morning for the first time ever with good 
reports on CW and SSB. This set is owned by gentleman who is currently 
taking the Local Branch's Radio course and will be sitting his ticket early 
next Month. The kit is the first he  has built since the days of Heatkit, 
and he has done a nice job. I was the "Chief Elmer" and had little to do 
with the process apart from a bit of adviceand the on air testing.
With ZL now relaxing the Morse requirement the K2 should be on air regular 
next Month.I am sure the owner will have a ball with it.
(Incidently he aims to do the Morse test as well even though it is no 
longer a requirement here)

73.Ron ZL1TW

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[Elecraft] K2 trivia

2004-07-12 Thread Ron Willcocks

Just picked this one up fixing a K2 for a new constructor.
Has anyone noticed that T7 is the only transformer in the K2 with the 
*Green* winding numbered 1 & 2 ??
In this case I think it had been installed while looking at the diagram for 
T5 just above it!

Cheers..Ron ZL1TW

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[Elecraft] K2 receive volume

2004-06-18 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
I have read the thread about the lack of volume in the K2 that some 
chaps have reported, and personally I find it hard to imagine any problem 
in that area.
During our last Field Day, we had a Tropical Cyclone running down us on the 
East, and a deep depression to the West, and the wind and rain was of 
Tropical proportions. To make matters worse our FD "shack" for 80m was a 
metal sided horse float, and the din from the rain was extreme. I used my 
K2 in that mix without headphones and had no problems at all.
Incidently.I also notice reports on headphones to use with the K2 and 
the associated answers on what to use.
While I have no argument with the headphones suggested, I used a bit of 
"bush engineering" to make a set of headphones that work exceedingly well 
with my K2 ( when required)
I bought a set of nice headphones from a local junk sale for a few cents, 
and found one side was open cct. ( not surprising)  I then cleared both 
inserts out and put in two 8ohm speakers out of old computers,and wired 
them in parallel. I certainly have no volume problems with those clamped on 
my lugs.. The niceties of frequency response and whatever makes for 
good listening went out the window the day I signed up to work in Telephone 
exchanges in the 50's !!

Cheers..Ron ZL1TW

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[Elecraft] Re: TPA problem

2004-06-11 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi Bob,
   I had similar problems with the TPA setting changing , and it 
appeared to be caused mainly by my transmitting into a high SWR ( like 
changing bands and not tuning for it on a manual ATU)  I have never had the 
problem again since I got the KAT100 ATU.
However, I *did* reduce the problem before getting the KAT100, by grounding 
the shield of the KPA100 amp securely to the side panels, and filling in 
the gap that was in the shield around the SO239 socket and grounding the 
SO239 base solidly to the shield with a short bracket.
These alterations are incorporated in later issue KPA100's and may not be 
an issue for you.


Cheers...Ron ZL1TW
K2/100 #2204
K1 #575

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[Elecraft] Setting of FWD cal pot R26 in the KPA100

2004-06-10 Thread Ron Willcocks

Greetings
  Since making my KPA100 some time ago I always had the odd 
time when "HI CUR" would show, and I had tweaked the CAL CUR up to 
3.74amps, but when I started getting the over current message again after 
doing the latest PA mods and Firmware upgrade I decided it was time to find 
out what was going on.
I thought the best option was to call in the "Heavies" straight away, so I 
contacted Gary Surrency and received a prompt reply suggesting ( amongst 
other things) that R26, the FWD cal pot in the KPA100 might be set too low.
Apparently if this is so, it allows more than 100 -110watts output from the 
KPA100, which will demand more drive from the K2 and push the current 
required up..
I am not exactly flush with good test gear now-days so I borrowed a watt 
meter, and I was somewhat surprised to see I was delivering the best part 
of 140w on 20m.
I tried the R26/R27 adjustment according to the manual, and it just didn't 
seem to work out, so I contacted Gary again.
This time he suggested the R26 pot should show about 41 - 43k ohms to 
ground, and the R27 pot should be set about 20% higher.
Mine was set to 36k, so I adjusted it to 42K (as a starting point) and 
tried the output again. This time I was putting out around 110watts on 20m 
and drawing only 3.2amps. Tests on all the other bands showed decent output 
with reduced current readings, so I have left R26 where it is and put the 
set back together.
Why I had the trouble setting R26 in the first place is a mystery. I have 
made another K2/100 for a friend since I built my KPA100 and had no 
problems with that alignment.
Anyway, I record this saga here in case someone else has been caught out 
the same way? I imagine I made mine worse during the mods I did to the amp, 
by most likely bumping R26 a tad lower.

I have Cal Cur set to 3.50amps now...Where would we be without Gary?
Cheers...Ron ZL1TW
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