Re: [Elecraft] variac question

2015-01-29 Thread Tim Groat
It sounds like a polarity problem. The line cord feeding the variac may 
be reversed, or the switch may be in the neutral instead of the 120V 
line (or if it's a double-pole switch, one pole may have failed On.) 
Easy way to tell: check voltage from neutral to ground with the switch 
on. If it's zero when the switch is on and 120V with the switch off, the 
switch probably is in the neutral. If it's 120V both ways, the line cord 
or outlet is wired wrong.


You definitely should fix it, but don't rely on the switch for safety. 
They can (and do) fail. Always unplug to be safe!


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Re: [Elecraft] 240V Line

2014-12-29 Thread Tim Groat

What Jim says here is correct.

The old exception that allowed returning 120V loads to the bare or green 
grounding wire of a 240V circuit was very limited, allowed only for a 
few large appliances (dryers, stoves/ovens, and water heaters IIRC) 
which would be disconnected only for maintenance or replacement. The 
exception never applied to ham equipment.


There are at least three possible Bad Things that can happen when you 
use a ground to carry operating current:


(1) Some of the 120V load current returns by way of the coax, keying 
line, ALC line, the rig and its power supply, the antenna grounding 
system, etc.--anything connected to the amplifier chassis. This current 
often causes a stubborn hum in your transmitted signal (and other ill 
effects).


(2) If the circuit has GFCI protection, the 120V load current is likely 
to trip the GFCI.


(3) If the ground wire opens for any reason, the 120V load current has 
nowhere to go except the unintended paths, in particular through you if 
you are touching anything connected to the amplifier. This danger is the 
primary reason the NEC no longer allows combining neutral and ground 
conductors anywhere beyond the power service equipment (master 
disconnect enclosure).


So if you have an older amplifier wired with 120V loads to chassis, it's 
wise to spend the time and money to make it safer and better by keeping 
the 120V load currents out of the chassis ground connections.


--Tim (KR0u)

On 12/24/2014 2:50 PM, Jim Brown wrote:


You may be confusing a 120/240 outlet that has a four circuit plug
(phase, phase, neutral, and Green) and can serve both 120V and 240V
loads, with a 240V outlet that has a three circuit plug and serves only
240V loads. There is no neutral in a 240V outlet, and as noted above, it
is illegal to connect a 120V load between one phase and the Green wire
(Equipment Ground).  That 120/240 circuit can feed both 120V and 240V
outlets. A neutral IS required to feed those 120V outlets.



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Re: [Elecraft] Astatic D104 mics

2013-10-07 Thread Tim Groat
The basic D-104 (without amplifier) is a crystal microphone, designed 
for very high impedance (100K ohm), and delivering fairly high output 
voltage. It worked well with the vacuum tube amplifiers used when the 
D-104 was new. The K3 (and other modern rigs) have much lower input 
impedance and will load down the crystal mic element considerably.


There were several amplified versions, the power mikes of the CB 
craze. These have low output impedance (a few K ohms, varies with the 
output level pot setting) combined with high output voltage. Their 
output level can over-drive radios designed for dynamic microphones 
unless the gain setting is kept very low, or an attenuator is placed in 
the output.


Links:
Adapting D-104 to modern radios (using an op-amp buffer) 
http://www.w6ier.org/images/9908034%5B1%5DAdapting%20the%20Astatic%20D104%20Mic.pdf


Schematics for amplified Astatic mics 
http://www.barovelli.com/projects/radio/radioastatic.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Tim Groat
665 CA would be cranking amps (normal temperature), vs. the lower 
CCA rating which is cold cranking amps. Unlike marine or RV batteries, 
a starting battery have low ampere hours for its size: it's optimized 
for high current loading, not for run-time.


I agree with those who suggest a good quality float charger to 
continually maintain the battery at full charge. Be sure it has a true 
float mode (not just an automatic charge cut-off), and avoid bargain 
priced chargers (they often have poor voltage regulation). I wouldn't be 
surprised if your generator controller has one; perhaps it has failed.


I hope you get the problem fixed!

--Tim (KR0U)
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Re: [Elecraft] USB Cable Power Requirements

2013-01-01 Thread Tim Groat
It is a low power USB device, because it does not power anything in the 
rig. The only connections are TX data, RX data and common (ground)--see 
page 5 of the KX3 manual. It won't strain either of those USB hubs.


--Tim (KR0U)


I bought a Mac with only four USB ports and am going to purchase a powered hub. 
 One of the hubs offers seven ports, but only 2 A for all the ports.  The 
four-port version offers a full 500 mA per port.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 in Sweepstakes

2012-11-06 Thread Tim Groat
Mine performed very well: 305 QSOs and 72 sections for 10 hours of 
operating time, using my HF6V vertical antenna. The great dynamic range 
and no-ring filtering makes a receiver that's easy on the ears: it is 
much less fatiguing than my old rig. When the clock struck 0300Z, I said 
What? Time's up already? This rig makes the operating fun--thank you 
Wayne, and everyone at Elecraft!
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Charging

2012-10-30 Thread Tim Groat
Using 400Hz power is risky, because the current in the RFI bypass 
capacitors will much higher than normal. The leakage current through the 
capacitors to the output and other accessible parts will be high, 
possibly high enough to be a shock hazard. Running a 50-60Hz product 
from 400Hz power may also cause early failure of those capacitors.

Follow the charger's marked input frequency rating, which almost always 
will be 50-60Hz. A small variation for the tolerance of a 
motor-generator is acceptable, but 667% of the maximum rated frequency 
is no small variation!

--Tim (KR0U)
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Antenna Tuner Or Not

2012-09-13 Thread Tim Groat
I think you'll appreciate the internal tuner for portable operation. For 
me, having an internal tuner is a big incentive. Being in the rig's 
package, it takes up less packing space and has no extra cables to hook 
up. Connect the KX3 to an antenna and paddle or microphone, and it's on 
the air.

Speaking of internal accessories, I hope the internal NiMH battery 
charger board will come out soon. When that's available, I can recharge 
through the truck's cigarette lighter socket instead of bringing along 
external chargers (two of them, since each will charge only four cells 
at a time).

Enjoy your KX3!

--Tim (KR0U)
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