Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Rigblaster plus II

2010-11-01 Thread jperelst

The K2 works fine with RIGblasters, SignaLinks, Donner Digital Interfaces,
and any number of TNCs.  For the RIGblasters, I plug into the Mic input jack
and into the headphone output jack.  As Don has mentioned, you can add a
fixed output modification.

On the K2, as opposed to most rigs, you do NOT want to set your power on
full and then control output power with the input gain control (which is the
technique described in the RIGblaster manuals).  Instead, set your output
power to the desired output power (e.g., 20 watts on PSK) and control ALC
with the input gain control.  Aim for 0 or 1 bar of ALC.  You control input
gain by setting the rig's input gain level to 1 (SSbA) and turning off
compression (SSbC) AS WELL AS controlling the output volume from the
computer and also using the transmit power control on the RIGblaster Plus II
itself.  Use both the output volume from the computer and the transmit power
control on the RIGblaster, not just one or the other.

Remember that you do not want high power on most digitial modes.  20w is
usually more than enough for things like PSK31, Olivia, etc.

The digital modes are continuous or near-continuous duty cycle -- which is a
much higher duty cycle than either SSB or CW.  If you have the KPA100, the
finals will get very hot during digital operation -- even at 20 watts.  That
will cause drift in your transmitted signal, which will annoy other
operators.  It will also make others jealous because of your ability to fry
up a couple of eggs while operating.  Get yourself a 12v DC muffin fan 
(1-2 radius) to put on top of the rig and draw in more air (exhaust facing
up, away from the rig).   Some double-sided tape will hold it in place.

As Don has helped me discover, there are many things in the shack that can
cause RFI that will distort your signal.  For example, I had a powered
external USB hub connected to my computer that was generating enough RFI to
totally destroy my PSK signal.  I also had a small electric eye nightlight
in the shack that was causing considerable damage to the signal.  I've put
ferrite beads and cores and whatever on every wire into and out of the rig
and tested my output with a dummy load and oscilloscope -- and I don't put
anything new into the shack until I've checked its impact as shown on the
scope.

Jon
KB1QBZ


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Re: [Elecraft] Would you be interested in a K2 PSK31 digital interface card?

2010-07-11 Thread jperelst

I just noticed this post.  Sorry for being so late in responding.

The short answer is yes, yes, heck YES!!!

I would love the full kit

Jon
KB1QBZ
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA Jack for K2??

2010-02-09 Thread jperelst

Thank you all for your replies.

I should have known that Don Wilhelm already has a solution to the problem!!

As I understand it, all this is happening in audio frequencies versus radio
frequencies.  Am I correct that I could breadboard all the necessary
circuitry outside the rig and not have to worry about creating PC boards in
the rig?

Jon
KB1QBZ
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA Jack for K2??

2010-02-09 Thread jperelst

Thanks Don.
 
As always, you are a treasure.
 
Jon
KB1QBZ

  _  

From: Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+4543143-219819...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 1:56 PM
To: jperelst
Subject: Re: DATA Jack for K2??


Jon, 

Yes, it is audio, so the only problems with breadboarding is the 
possibilities of inadvertent ground loops and/or RF pickup by the 
circuit(s).  Remember that mic levels are quite low, and that level is 
what you will  be driving the K2 with. 
So the answer depends on just how rough *your* 'breadboard' circuit is. 
I would recommend putting the fixed audio output board in the K2 - the 
raw K2 audio is low level and balanced, and you need a source of single 
ended audio output.  While one of the microHAM cable implementations 
draws audio from one side of this balanced signal, the level is lower 
than ideal. 
All the rest can be done outside the K2 in a small box.  How small 
really depends on the size of the transformers you use in the audio 
lines - you can salvage small transformers from defunct computer modem 
boards, they work well.  Alternately, you can follow Jim Brown's 
recommendations to bond the computer and radio together and perhaps 
eliminate the transformers. 

73, 
Don W3FPR 

jperelst wrote: 

 Thank you all for your replies. 
 
 I should have known that Don Wilhelm already has a solution to the
problem!! 
 
 As I understand it, all this is happening in audio frequencies versus
radio 
 frequencies.  Am I correct that I could breadboard all the necessary 
 circuitry outside the rig and not have to worry about creating PC boards
in 
 the rig? 
 
 Jon 
 KB1QBZ 
   
  
 
 
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