RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[Brett gazdzinski]

 So true.
I have no idea how calibrated my station is, I ran around
650 to 700 degrees F, where the solder melted correctly.
That is the big thing, the solder melts and flows at the correct rate.

To slow and you damage parts from holding the heat on too long, 
even though its a lower temp. You can also get cold joints.

To hot and you damage things.

I turn it up to strip toroid wires and for big parts or big
solder pads, I turn it down for little parts.

I figure all parts have some thermal mass, so I try to keep the 
soldering as quick as possible without excessive heat.
The average soldering time for resistors and small caps, ic chip
pins, was under 1 second I think.

I let toroid wires cook a bitthey wont be hurt by heat.

I built the K2, the antenna tuner, the 100 watt amp, all very
quickly, without a single solder problem.

One trick I did do with the toroids was to NOT cut off the
excess wire, but ran it along the trace to the next solder pad
and also solder it there.

More connection spots, plus extra wire if needed in the future.
Since the wire runs over the trace on the board, it causes no 
problems...

Brett
N2DTS



> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: Ian Stirling
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?
> 
> Ian,
> 
> You have already received some starting point temperatures.
> There are no really hard and fast rules - watch the solder 
> connections 
> for a while, especially watch to see how long it takes for 
> the solder to 
> flow out smoothly onto the solder pad.  If that time is longer than 3 
> seconds, increase the heat a bit, but if it is less than 2 seconds, 
> reduce the heat.
> Different boards will require different temperatures - those 
> with small 
> traces will need less heat, but those with large traces and 
> an extensive 
> ground plane (like the KPA100) require more.
> 
> When working with thru-plated boards, strive to produce a 
> tiny fillet of 
> solder that has a concave surface.  If the solder surface is 
> convex, all 
> the solder may be stuck to the component lead and the solder 
> pad did not 
> receive enough heat (besides that, too much solder is already 
> applied).
> 
> The soldering tutorial on the Builder's Resource page at the Elecraft 
> website has a lot of good information that you may want to review.
> 
> SMD soldering usually does not require as much heat as lead thru hole 
> construction, but the principle is the same - watch for the solder to 
> flow and keep that time short. 
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> Ian Stirling wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> >
> >   My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
> > components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
> >  I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
> > I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
> > well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
> > So,  my questions:
> >  What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
> > a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
> > an AD9851?
> >
> > 73,
> > Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
> > --
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> >
> >   
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> 


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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[Don Wilhelm]

Ian,

You have already received some starting point temperatures.
There are no really hard and fast rules - watch the solder connections 
for a while, especially watch to see how long it takes for the solder to 
flow out smoothly onto the solder pad.  If that time is longer than 3 
seconds, increase the heat a bit, but if it is less than 2 seconds, 
reduce the heat.
Different boards will require different temperatures - those with small 
traces will need less heat, but those with large traces and an extensive 
ground plane (like the KPA100) require more.


When working with thru-plated boards, strive to produce a tiny fillet of 
solder that has a concave surface.  If the solder surface is convex, all 
the solder may be stuck to the component lead and the solder pad did not 
receive enough heat (besides that, too much solder is already applied).


The soldering tutorial on the Builder's Resource page at the Elecraft 
website has a lot of good information that you may want to review.


SMD soldering usually does not require as much heat as lead thru hole 
construction, but the principle is the same - watch for the solder to 
flow and keep that time short. 


73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Stirling wrote:

Hi guys,

  My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
 I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
So,  my questions:
 What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
an AD9851?

73,
Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[R. Kevin Stover]

Ian Stirling wrote:
> Hi guys,
> 
>   My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
> components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
>  I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
> I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
> well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
> So,  my questions:
>  What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
> a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
> an AD9851?
> 
> 73,
> Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278

When I built K2/100 #4684 I had my 936 set at 700 most of the time.
I'd bump it up to 750, maybe 800 on rare occasions but I did 90% of the
radio at 700.


-- 
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936-12

[Greg Beat]

Ian -

For a variable temperature soldering station -- and using 60/40 (Sn/Pb) 
solder -- stay within the range of 650 to 750 degrees F (345 - 400 degrees 
C).


Personally, I always set one to 700 F degrees (370 C) --- since I learned my 
techniques in 1970s with the Weller TCP series with 700 degree tips.


I do NOT recommend 800 F degree tips or temperature settings, burns up tips 
faster.
Really only useful for SOME lead-free solders -- and you must have excellent 
soldering techniques (be quick) -- not to lift traces, etc.


Get the proper MASS and PROFILE for your solder tip -- that matches the 
solder joint -- these are far more important to proper heating of the joint 
for solder flow -- than "dialing up" a higher temperature (which is the 
common mistake for the beginner).


Greg
w9gb

- Original Message - 
From: "Ian Stirling" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 12:34 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?



Hi guys,

 My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
So,  my questions:
What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
an AD9851?

73,
Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
--





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[Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[Ian Stirling]

Hi guys,

  My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
 I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
So,  my questions:
 What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
an AD9851?

73,
Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
--
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[Elecraft] Hakko 936

[Tony Morgan]

The famous Hakko 936 ESD at a good price.
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/query.cgi?query=936esd

Tony W7GO
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936-12 Solder Station.

[David Toepfer]

I am guessing from your callsign that you are in Spain.  Did you try

().  My 936-12 is labled specifically
120VAC @ 60Hz .  Of course, if you wish to use it in the US in the future it
kind of screws you.  Did you try calling one of the US Vendors (go to
www.google.us and type hakko and look at the blu box at the top, do it a few
times to get different results)?  They might be nire helpful than my attempt to
help.

David, k3tue
.


--- "Robert T. Davis Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
>I'd  like to order A Nakko 936-12 solder station but I need to know if
>this  unit will work with a 220AC input. and if not I assume I can use
>a step down tranformer, 110 at 50 HZ?  Thankyou BoB AB5HG/EA7AQP   P.S
>I  sent  a  msg. to a couple of venders and received back an automated
>ans. telling me they would get back to me soon, they have never ans.
><
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936-12 Solder Station.

[Karl Larsen]

Robert T. Davis Jr. wrote:


  I'd  like to order A Nakko 936-12 solder station but I need to know if
  this  unit will work with a 220AC input. and if not I assume I can use
  a step down tranformer, 110 at 50 HZ?
   If you have or can find a small transformer it will work. The solder 
station I have uses 60 watts max. This is so low I can build kits when 
camped out in my trailer. I have a 12 vdc system and a inverter that 
makes 120 vac and the solder station works just fine.


73 Karl
K5DI


  Thankyou BoB AB5HG/EA7AQP   P.S
  I  sent  a  msg. to a couple of venders and received back an automated
  ans. telling me they would get back to me soon, they have never ans.


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[Elecraft] Hakko 936-12 Solder Station.

[Robert T. Davis Jr.]

  I'd  like to order A Nakko 936-12 solder station but I need to know if
  this  unit will work with a 220AC input. and if not I assume I can use
  a step down tranformer, 110 at 50 HZ?  Thankyou BoB AB5HG/EA7AQP   P.S
  I  sent  a  msg. to a couple of venders and received back an automated
  ans. telling me they would get back to me soon, they have never ans.
  <
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