Re: [Elecraft] K1 #2999 does not seem to get 5 watts out on 20

2011-10-22 Thread Don Baucom
Don- Thanks!!! I did exactly what you said and everthing is in order. My low
pass toriods looked good. I had not tuned the KATV1 properly. I was just
sending CQ on 14.040 and see a nice 5 bars with the power set to 5 watts. I
cant wait to get the K2. 

73
Don

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[Elecraft] K1 #2999 does not seem to get 5 watts out on 20

2011-10-17 Thread Don Baucom
I adjusted the K1 again ( transmit adj) the receiver sounds louder on 20. I
still cant seem to get 5 watts out. When Im around 14.010 its is 4 bars (
ant tuner says the swr is 1.1) and as I move up (14.040) it will sometimes
drop to 3 bars( tuner once again says 1.1) . On 40 I do get 5 bars. I am
running it through a MFJ SWR/Watt meter and the power looks like it is just
under 5 watts.. I am not using the plastic coil tuner. I use a small
screwdriver with tape. Not sure that could be a issue? I did retouch all the
solder joints that related to 20 meters on the filter board.


Last night I  received a 599 from a 500 mile QSO into Canada so maybe I
should not worry?

I have the 2 band module (40/20)

Is it typical for the power to have a drop off from 40 to 20?

Thanks
Don



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 #2999 does not seem to get 5 watts out on 20

2011-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Don,

Make certain the turns on the 20 meter low pass filter toroids are 
spread completely around the core.  If the turns are bunched up, the 
cutoff frequency of the 20 meter LPF can be down in the 20 meter band 
instead of above 14,350 MHz, and a substantial amount of power will be 
shunted to ground.

Judge the power output only into a dummy load - initially with the tuner 
removed (don't forget the jumper).
After you obtain adequate power output without the tuner, then you can 
add the tuner, balance it and calibrate its wattmeter.
You can believe the K1 power reading into a 50 ohm dummy load when the 
KXAT1 is removed - so do not put your external wattmeter between the K1 
and dummy load.  When you get ready for the KAT1 power calibration (and 
after you have balanced the KXAT1 wattmeter), then you will add the 
external wattmeter and adjust the FWD pot on the KAT1 to make the power 
readings agree.

What I am saying is that many external wattmeters can introduce 
reactance to the transceiver output, so eliminate them until they are 
needed - use a good 50 ohm pure resistive dummy load for the best 
results and connect it to the K1 with a short length of coax.

Be certain you set the jumper near the BNC jack to the proper Non-KAT1 
or KAT1 position when changing from no tuner to KXAT1 installed.

If you have gone through all those procedures and still have problems, 
back the configuration down to the K1 without the KAT1, and if you do 
not have sufficient output, turn the manual to the Transmit Signal 
Tracing section in the manual and follow that procedure.  Once you have 
identified the stage where the RF Voltage is substantially less than the 
expected value, you have found the output of the failing stage.  Tell us 
the relevant details and we should be able to assist with detailed 
measurements of that failing stage.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/17/2011 5:40 PM, Don Baucom wrote:
 I adjusted the K1 again ( transmit adj) the receiver sounds louder on 20. I
 still cant seem to get 5 watts out. When Im around 14.010 its is 4 bars (
 ant tuner says the swr is 1.1) and as I move up (14.040) it will sometimes
 drop to 3 bars( tuner once again says 1.1) . On 40 I do get 5 bars. I am
 running it through a MFJ SWR/Watt meter and the power looks like it is just
 under 5 watts.. I am not using the plastic coil tuner. I use a small
 screwdriver with tape. Not sure that could be a issue? I did retouch all the
 solder joints that related to 20 meters on the filter board.


 Last night I  received a 599 from a 500 mile QSO into Canada so maybe I
 should not worry?

 I have the 2 band module (40/20)

 Is it typical for the power to have a drop off from 40 to 20?

 Thanks
 Don



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