Don,

Thanks for the tip. I did a quick eyeball check on the board and sure enough
pin 1 of K9 has never been soldered! It's not the first time that I have
seen the round solder pad on a board missed like that. This KAT1 is at least
third-hand, so it's surprising that neither the original builder nor the
intermediate owners have experienced problems (or perhaps that's why it's
been passed on!).

73,
Ray / SM5XLP

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com] 
Skickat: den 12 maj 2016 00:12
Till: Raymund Band; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Ämne: Re: [Elecraft] K1 - problem with KAT1

Ray,

I would be highly suspicious of a relay that is not working properly.
Whether that is the result of a poorly or unsoldered connection or because
the relay is really bad is to be determined.  That relay just was not
operated on the other bands, but it happened to try to be operated on 15
meters during the tuning process.

The relays on the KAT1 are latching types.  By using the L0-L4 menu items
and the C0-C5 as well as the N1 and N2 settings you can check the relay
operation.  First check to see if you hear a click when the relay is
operated - note that for the L0 and C0 settings there should be no relay
operated.

The schematic shows the relays in the reset position.

The capacitor relay checks are easy - when the relay is set, one lead of the
capacitor will show continuity to ground.  With C0, none of the capacitors
will have continuity to ground.

The check of the inductor relays is a little harder because the inductor
itself will show a DC path, so lift one lead of all the inductors and then
test across the inductor solder pads with your ohmmeter.  The L0 setting
should show an zero resistance across each of the inductor solder pads, as
you select L1 thru L4, you should see the relay for that inductor open.

If you don't want to lift a lead on the inductors,  you can test by using
the SWR indication as given in the KAT1 manual on page 14 near the bottom of
the page.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/11/2016 4:38 PM, Raymund Band wrote:
> I have just installed a KAT1 in a K1 with 4-bands filter board. The 
> KAT1 bridge adjustment and power calibration were performed without
difficulty.
>
>   
>
> The K1 (serial number 25xx) has been used without any problems and the 
> KAT1 has been used previously with a different 2-bands K1. Using Tune 
> and testing into a good 50 ohm load, everything worked OK on 7, 10 and 
> 14 MHz but 21 MHz showed a problem. After a long tune (about 1 sec), 
> the display showed LO P and the combined load/power-meter showed 0.5 
> watt. Another known good 50 ohm load gave the same result.
>
>   
>
> Removing the KAT1 showed that the K1 could easily give 6 watts on all 
> bands, including 21 MHz.
>
>   
>
> With the KAT1 re-installed and looking at the results of the tune on 
> all four bands (7, 10, 14 & 21 MHz) on the ATU menu, the lowest 3 
> bands all showed L = 0.0, C = 00, which seems reasonable with a 50 ohm
load.
>
> The highest band (21 MHz) showed L = 4.9 and C = 63. So something 
> seems wrong in the KAT1. Can it be power measurement (D1 & D2 etc)?
>
>   
>
> Ray / SM5XLP
>
>   
>
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