[Elecraft] K2/10 to K2/100

2014-09-08 Thread John Fritze
One of our K2s needs to be converted to a K2/100.  Looking over the
instructions I do not see where this is terribly difficult, but I do have a
couple of questions:

Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
still be inside or does that need to be removed?  Will it still be
available to use if running less than 20 watts?

When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
storage?

This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
contacts QRP.

-- 
John Fritze Jr
K2QY
k...@arrl.net
ACACES president 2014
Albany County RACES Radio Officer
ARES ENY DEC Northern District
Hudson Div. Asst. Director
Twitter: @k2qy
401 261 4996 (cell)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 to K2/100

2014-09-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

The normal mounting for the KPA100 is in the same place as the top cover 
for the QRP K2.  That means the KAT2, KBT2 and KIO2 will be removed.  
Optional mounting is to install the KPA100 (usually with the KAT100-2) 
in a separate EC2 enclosure.  That latter configuration leaves the K2/10 
with its options intact.


When the KPA100 is installed (even with the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure) 
the KAT2 is not active.  With the external KPA100, the KAT2 is bypassed 
and forced to the ANT1 output.


For the battery question, I would recommend connecting the battery 
terminals directly to either a Smartcharger, or to a 13.8 volt float 
charge.  Either can be left connected continuously.  Fuse the positive 
lead for safety - if the direct battery connection develops a fault a 
LOT of current can flow and may result in molten metal flying about and 
create a fire hazard.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/8/2014 2:01 PM, John Fritze wrote:

One of our K2s needs to be converted to a K2/100.  Looking over the
instructions I do not see where this is terribly difficult, but I do have a
couple of questions:

Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
still be inside or does that need to be removed?  Will it still be
available to use if running less than 20 watts?

When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
storage?

This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
contacts QRP.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 to K2/100

2014-09-08 Thread Fred Jensen

On 9/8/2014 11:01 AM, John Fritze wrote:


Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
still be inside


No, it's attached to the top of the K2.


Will it still be available to use if running less than 20 watts?


QRP to QRO and back is a Top Swap.  Took me about 5 min until I sold 
the KPA100 and KAT100.  Remove case screws, lift top, disconnect cables, 
set aside.  Fetch other top, connect cables, reinstall top.


Note:  The two small coax cables with the 2-pin Molex connectors [Aux RF 
and 12 VDC] *CAN* be cross connected.  This is unwise, it will short the 
12 VDC.  I recommend you paint the connectors and the mates on the RF 
board different colors.


When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
storage?


I never had the battery pack.  What kind of batteries are they?



This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
contacts QRP.



If the battery is an A123 LiFePO4 or LiPoly, be sure to fuse the 12 VDC 
leads [see above warning re cross connection].  I've found that 
automobile spade fuses seem to have very low contact resistance.  At 
100W, you're going to draw somewhere in the general vicinity of 14-17 A. 
 LiFePO4's [and LiPoly] batteries are small and light but they have a 
minuscule internal resistance and will deliver a huge slug of current 
into a short, you need to be careful.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 to K2/100

2014-09-08 Thread Philip Carter
The original battery is a sealed Powersonic 2.9AH, mounting flat to the lid 
about the width of the K2 and 3 or so inches deep.  It fits in front of the 
antenna tuner and just behind the speaker.



On Monday, September 8, 2014 2:50 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 


John,

The normal mounting for the KPA100 is in the same place as the top cover 
for the QRP K2.  That means the KAT2, KBT2 and KIO2 will be removed.  
Optional mounting is to install the KPA100 (usually with the KAT100-2) 
in a separate EC2 enclosure.  That latter configuration leaves the K2/10 
with its options intact.

When the KPA100 is installed (even with the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure) 
the KAT2 is not active.  With the external KPA100, the KAT2 is bypassed 
and forced to the ANT1 output.

For the battery question, I would recommend connecting the battery 
terminals directly to either a Smartcharger, or to a 13.8 volt float 
charge.  Either can be left connected continuously.  Fuse the positive 
lead for safety - if the direct battery connection develops a fault a 
LOT of current can flow and may result in molten metal flying about and 
create a fire hazard.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/8/2014 2:01 PM, John Fritze wrote:
 One of our K2s needs to be converted to a K2/100.  Looking over the
 instructions I do not see where this is terribly difficult, but I do have a
 couple of questions:

 Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
 to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
 still be inside or does that need to be removed?  Will it still be
 available to use if running less than 20 watts?

 When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
 on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
 storage?

 This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
 100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
 contacts QRP.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 or K2/100 Wanted

2012-03-01 Thread Gene N4FZ
I found one, Thanks! 

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[Elecraft] K2/10 or K2/100 Wanted

2012-02-28 Thread Gene N4FZ
Looking for a K2. Thanks! Gene N4FZ

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