Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed
Mark, I have had the same problem and also a hole in the 15 uH RFC. I replaced the coil temporarily by a resistor of 10 Ohms. Elecraft uses heavier inductors nowadays. 73 's Steef PA2A K2 4654 K3 1184 - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mark Adams, PE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:53 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed Mark, I would bet you are using an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 combination. That puts a load on the 12CTRL line coming out of the K2, and yes oft times L1 on the AUX board is overloaded and goes up in smoke. It is usually OK with the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone, but the combination of the two overloads that tiny inductor. You need to replace the inductor with one having a heavier current rating. A toroid will do just fine. If you have one of those tiny cores like used in the KSB2 RFC1 and RFC2, then just wind about 15 turns on that core. Lacking that, use an FT37-43 core and wind about 12 turns on it (the FT-37 core is a bit large and untidy when mounted on the AUX board, but it works). The inductance is not critical. In fact, you probably can temporarily substitute a wire, but there may be noise coupling between your KPA100 and KAT100 at times, so I would not recommend the wire as a permanent fix, but it can get you going until you can get a suitable inductor. If you want a tool to figure the number of turns needed on a core to produce a given inductance, I suggest you download miniRing Core Calculator by DL5SWB - it is freeware for radio amateurs - see www.dl5swb.de to download it. 73, Don W3FPR Mark Adams, PE wrote: Hi Gang, On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2 Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to measure them. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick? I cannot even find formulas to help me out. Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then.. 73, Mark K2QO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed
So does this mean that if I have a brand new KIO2 that L1 is large enough to handle the current of the KPA 100 and KAT 100 together? Or do I still need to wind an inductor like recommended by Don (W3FPR) and also found on the KK7P website to avoid smoke from L1. Thanks, Brian N1WNC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steef PA2A Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 3:54 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mark Adams, PE Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed Mark, I have had the same problem and also a hole in the 15 uH RFC. I replaced the coil temporarily by a resistor of 10 Ohms. Elecraft uses heavier inductors nowadays. 73 's Steef PA2A K2 4654 K3 1184 - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mark Adams, PE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:53 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed Mark, I would bet you are using an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 combination. That puts a load on the 12CTRL line coming out of the K2, and yes oft times L1 on the AUX board is overloaded and goes up in smoke. It is usually OK with the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone, but the combination of the two overloads that tiny inductor. You need to replace the inductor with one having a heavier current rating. A toroid will do just fine. If you have one of those tiny cores like used in the KSB2 RFC1 and RFC2, then just wind about 15 turns on that core. Lacking that, use an FT37-43 core and wind about 12 turns on it (the FT-37 core is a bit large and untidy when mounted on the AUX board, but it works). The inductance is not critical. In fact, you probably can temporarily substitute a wire, but there may be noise coupling between your KPA100 and KAT100 at times, so I would not recommend the wire as a permanent fix, but it can get you going until you can get a suitable inductor. If you want a tool to figure the number of turns needed on a core to produce a given inductance, I suggest you download miniRing Core Calculator by DL5SWB - it is freeware for radio amateurs - see www.dl5swb.de to download it. 73, Don W3FPR Mark Adams, PE wrote: Hi Gang, On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2 Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to measure them. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick? I cannot even find formulas to help me out. Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then.. 73, Mark K2QO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed
I've run #1400 with external KPA+KAT for years with the standard L1 inductor, no smoke. Regards, Mike VP8NO - Original Message - From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 6:06 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed | So does this mean that if I have a brand new KIO2 that L1 is large enough to | handle the current of the KPA 100 and KAT 100 together? Or do I still need | to wind an inductor like recommended by Don (W3FPR) and also found on the | KK7P website to avoid smoke from L1. | | Thanks, | | Brian | N1WNC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed
Hi Gang, On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2 Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to measure them. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick? I cannot even find formulas to help me out. Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then.. 73, Mark K2QO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 I/O Module Help Needed
Mark, I would bet you are using an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 combination. That puts a load on the 12CTRL line coming out of the K2, and yes oft times L1 on the AUX board is overloaded and goes up in smoke. It is usually OK with the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone, but the combination of the two overloads that tiny inductor. You need to replace the inductor with one having a heavier current rating. A toroid will do just fine. If you have one of those tiny cores like used in the KSB2 RFC1 and RFC2, then just wind about 15 turns on that core. Lacking that, use an FT37-43 core and wind about 12 turns on it (the FT-37 core is a bit large and untidy when mounted on the AUX board, but it works). The inductance is not critical. In fact, you probably can temporarily substitute a wire, but there may be noise coupling between your KPA100 and KAT100 at times, so I would not recommend the wire as a permanent fix, but it can get you going until you can get a suitable inductor. If you want a tool to figure the number of turns needed on a core to produce a given inductance, I suggest you download miniRing Core Calculator by DL5SWB - it is freeware for radio amateurs - see www.dl5swb.de to download it. 73, Don W3FPR Mark Adams, PE wrote: Hi Gang, On FD, my K2 I/O board went south. It just stopped working when contest time arrived Saturday. Bummer. I've just dug into the radio and found that I have no power to U1 or Q1 on the I/O board and that L1 on the Aux2 Board is busted. Has a hole in its side to be exact. So, my junk box has no 15uH inductors hiding anywhere. I have some inductors but no way to measure them. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a resistor I could sub to finish troubleshooting? Maybe a few turns of #18 tinned wire would do the trick? I cannot even find formulas to help me out. Yes, I'll order a few from the big E Monday, but until then.. 73, Mark K2QO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
