[Elecraft] K2 Noise Solved

2008-06-23 Thread DDWEBB
A few weeks back I wrote that I was experiencing  a most unusual noise 
problem. I had hoped that someone else might have had  the same problem and 
would 
have the answer. This didn't happen.
The  noise was noticeable when the volume control and RF Gain were at minimum 
and  even the antenna disconnected.   
I want to thank Gary,   KI4GGX, who was of great encouragement to me is the 
solving of this problem. He  even suggested I record the noise.  I did and sent 
it to him to hear.
I  finally decided to use the bruit force approach and used a 1000 UF 
capacitor  with one side grounded.
Starting at U9 the audio amp, shorting leads to  ground through the 
capacitor, I discovered the noise was coming in via the  CW side tone path. I 
traced 
the noise to the input to U 10B pin 5.
Under a  high intensity light and a magnifying glass, all solder pads looked 
clean and  shiny.
Not knowing where else to go, I resoldered all the pins of U10 plus  C36. I 
suspect C36 may have been my problem but all that noise has now gone  away.
Don Webb...KA7L  




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Solved

2008-06-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Don,

I have a strong suspicion that the solder pad did not receive enough 
heat initially.  It can happen that the solder looks nice and shiny, but 
the solder does not have good flow onto the pad.  I have seen that 
condition more times than I would like.  It is the result of too low a 
soldering temperature.


A word to potential builders - keep the soldering iron temperature 
greater than 700 deg F (750 is better).  You will not damage anything if 
the soldering temperature is 800 deg F or below *and* the soldering time 
is kept short - contrary to popular belief, damage *will* occur with a 
low iron temperature applied for a long period of time.  Also use a 
small diameter solder so you can control the amount and watch as the 
thru-hole is heated, it will wick a bit of solder into the hole when it 
receives adequate heat, but too much applied solder will mask that 
process and can hide a bad solder joint.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A few weeks back I wrote that I was experiencing  a most unusual noise 
problem. I had hoped that someone else might have had  the same problem and would 
have the answer. This didn't happen.
The  noise was noticeable when the volume control and RF Gain were at minimum 
and  even the antenna disconnected.   
I want to thank Gary,   KI4GGX, who was of great encouragement to me is the 
solving of this problem. He  even suggested I record the noise.  I did and sent 
it to him to hear.
I  finally decided to use the bruit force approach and used a 1000 UF 
capacitor  with one side grounded.
Starting at U9 the audio amp, shorting leads to  ground through the 
capacitor, I discovered the noise was coming in via the  CW side tone path. I traced 
the noise to the input to U 10B pin 5.
Under a  high intensity light and a magnifying glass, all solder pads looked 
clean and  shiny.
Not knowing where else to go, I resoldered all the pins of U10 plus  C36. I 
suspect C36 may have been my problem but all that noise has now gone  away.
Don Webb...KA7L  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Solved

2008-06-23 Thread Jack Smith

Don:

I can't find it now, but I remember a column by Robert A. Pease in which 
he left a transistor wrapped around  the business end of a soldering 
iron at 700F over the weekend as an experiment and found that its 
performance specs were still in compliance when he checked it Monday 
morning.


A related issue to tip temperature is that a physically small tip will 
loose too much heat. There's a happy optimum where the tip possesses 
sufficient thermal mass to not cool down when applied to the joint, but 
is sufficiently small for the job.


Jack K8ZOA



A word to potential builders - keep the soldering iron temperature 
greater than 700 deg F (750 is better).  You will not damage anything 
if the soldering temperature is 800 deg F or below *and* the soldering 
time is kept short - contrary to popular belief, damage *will* occur 
with a low iron temperature applied for a long period of time.  Also 
use a small diameter solder so you can control the amount and watch as 
the thru-hole is heated, it will wick a bit of solder into the hole 
when it receives adequate heat, but too much applied solder will mask 
that process and can hide a bad solder joint.


73,
Don W3FPR


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